Fuel Things I've learned re fuel, over the years....

RememberGoliad

Veteran Member
1. Diesel will last 20+ years with no special care whatsoever. Dad had an old 4020D that he stopped using in 1999. His rule for 40 years was, fill up when you finish using the tractor, even if it only takes a half a gallon to top it off. That tractor was not started again until Fall 2019. No ether, no gassy rag on air intake, just hot batteries and it barfed up several metric buttloads of black smoke then settled into 'ready to work' idling.

2. Gasoline (with corn squeezin's) from 2020 stored in plastic fuel cans *mostly* airtight runs just like new in small engines as of about a month ago when I mowed the grass last.

2a. Gasoline stored airtight in steel cans is completely indistinguishable from 'fresh' gasoline.

3. Those purple quart cans of mixed gas will last for >1yr in the fuel tank of a weedeater.

4. The same cans, partially used, will last from at least 2019 until last month or so when I put some in an old F.O.R.D. chainsaw I garbage picked. Unknown why that Jonsered 22" was sitting out by the trash barrel on pickup day but I did garbage pick it and it fired right up on ~3yr old ready-mixed gasoline from Walmart.

5. As long as gasoline smells even SORTA like gasoline, and is clean, it will fire up in a carbureted engine.

Conclusion: I'm wondering just how much of the additive/preservative market is hype promulgated by the manufacturers of such products.
 

Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
_______________
1. Diesel will last 20+ years with no special care whatsoever. Dad had an old 4020D that he stopped using in 1999. His rule for 40 years was, fill up when you finish using the tractor, even if it only takes a half a gallon to top it off. That tractor was not started again until Fall 2019. No ether, no gassy rag on air intake, just hot batteries and it barfed up several metric buttloads of black smoke then settled into 'ready to work' idling.

Probably had no Bio content. Good.

Filled up to the neck? Minimal air contact for condensation. Good.

In a barn? Not cooking in the sun?
 

West

Senior
Surly you guys at least cleaned up the fuel filter before starting up that 4020D? Or maybe it's just a Oklahoma thing.
 

kyrsyan

Has No Life - Lives on TB
Question that just popped in my head. Is there any specific thing I should be looking for in a metal barrel to store gasoline? Or avoiding? I have one that I haven't used for the planned project, and likely won't any time soon.

And storage. I have a detached garage but would really rather not have it in that. I also have a small cinder block shed. Not quite as clean and tight as the garage but probably better in regards to other factors. Like family having a meltdown over location. It has a working roof, door, and windows. It just occasionally gets damp in there because it's the south. It bis my "garden" shed and I can make room in it.
 

RememberGoliad

Veteran Member
Question that just popped in my head. Is there any specific thing I should be looking for in a metal barrel to store gasoline? Or avoiding? I have one that I haven't used for the planned project, and likely won't any time soon.

And storage. I have a detached garage but would really rather not have it in that. I also have a small cinder block shed. Not quite as clean and tight as the garage but probably better in regards to other factors. Like family having a meltdown over location. It has a working roof, door, and windows. It just occasionally gets damp in there because it's the south. It bis my "garden" shed and I can make room in it.

--No holes, obviously :eye:

--Fill it asap, to the flippin TOP. If you're doing it 5 gal at a time, do it as fast as possible. The less air it's exposed to, the better.

--Seal it tight enough that you can't smell it.

--Put stabilizers in it if you think it'll help. I'd hate like heck to be wrong and cost someone a barrel of fuel.
 

EMICT

Veteran Member
--No holes, obviously :eye:

--Fill it asap, to the flippin TOP. If you're doing it 5 gal at a time, do it as fast as possible. The less air it's exposed to, the better.

--Seal it tight enough that you can't smell it.

--Put stabilizers in it if you think it'll help. I'd hate like heck to be wrong and cost someone a barrel of fuel.
 

kyrsyan

Has No Life - Lives on TB
--No holes, obviously :eye:

--Fill it asap, to the flippin TOP. If you're doing it 5 gal at a time, do it as fast as possible. The less air it's exposed to, the better.

--Seal it tight enough that you can't smell it.

--Put stabilizers in it if you think it'll help. I'd hate like heck to be wrong and cost someone a barrel of fuel.
Oh stabilizers will happen. Lost too much gasoline too many times. At this time, the remainder of any empty fuel cans will be filled first. And then I may start over by putting those in the barrel all at once and then refilling them slowly. I don't need much fuel for day to day, at this time. So a barrel and my other containers would easily cover me for two to three months of non cautious driving. If I get cautious, I can possibly double that.
I was just wondering if the barrel needed a way to vent or not, for the most part. I can stack it on bricks to keep it off the concrete. And I'll have to find a decent but affordable pump.
 

RememberGoliad

Veteran Member
Well, a chunk of 2x4 under one side will let air circulate under it and stop any sweating underneath of it. Suggest to put the block to where neither bung is at the low spot of the top....in other words, if you orient yourself to where the bungs are at 12 and 6 o'clock, block it up at either 9 or 3 o'clock. If it's inside and not likely to get the top wet, then it doesn't matter as much, and you can elevate it with two blocks.

As far as getting the fuel out, your best bet is to just siphon it out. No pump to dry rot or somehow not work for you when you need it....and you KNOW that when you need it will be when it's not optimal to go get a replacement because you find that it crapped out!
 

kyrsyan

Has No Life - Lives on TB
As far as getting the fuel out, your best bet is to just siphon it out. No pump to dry rot or somehow not work for you when you need it....and you KNOW that when you need it will be when it's not optimal to go get a replacement because you find that it crapped out!

:rofl:My life to a T. And I like the idea of 2x4s rather than brick. I don't really want it flat on the concrete in that shed. My experience with concrete and direct contact with metal for extended times is iffy. And I've got scraps of 2x4.
 
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