Hmmmm—- VERY possible, as I noticed last night that the way they have the new receptacle in there it is UPSIDE DOWN sideways— you can still ‘read’ the “test” and “reset” but there’re upside down.Tinfoil may be on the right track. If the new outlet is a GFCI outlet and they had the load and line inputs reversed, then anything downstream if the outlet would be get no power.
If you have 4 wires (or 5 with a ground wire) it may be as simple as swapping the top and bottom wire on each side of the outlet.
ETA— we only have the two wires— this house was built before a 3rd “ground” wire was even mandatory, so even though there “are” old 3-hole plugs in the kitchen, there’s no ground wire there in the older plugs for it to connect to. Now on this NEW outlet they DID run a new wire, with a ground. What puzzles me is how they wired that in the box on the breaker with the OTHER two outlets’ wires (when they have NO ground)— and whatever extra ‘mystery’ circuit “may” be there providing power to the pressure switch.Tinfoil may be on the right track. If the new outlet is a GFCI outlet and they had the load and line inputs reversed, then anything downstream if the outlet would be get no power.
If you have 4 wires (or 5 with a ground wire) it may be as simple as swapping the top and bottom wire on each side of the outlet.
not recently. High winds about a week ago.Lightening can do some mean, ugly things. Any lightening around your place lately?
Prayers.
I see you got the right approach: troubleshoot the circuits before pulling pump. I previously said a good pump man can test the pump from above, but so can a good electrician. That is what you need to get it all sorted out. Good luck!
Problem is---if by "testing the circuits from above" you meant AT the well-head---I have almost the same set up as you with a steel hand pump on the well cover. I would almost bet tons that you have an electrical problem that no one sees right now. I remember hand pumping water and hauling it in when the neighborhood lost power. Not fun! A wagon makes it much easier. One time the furnace didn't work so i called the repairman and it turned out that I had accidently flipped the electric switch on the furnace itself. Never thought to even look at that. I must have hit it with the vacuum. Hope it's something simple like that for you! Prayers it is resolved soon!
Atlanta is the worst place to get water service. The people that are in the water department are corrupt and incompetent. There are Atlanta residents that will get a $3000 bill and when they try to get it resolved they get no help from the city.Honestly, if the hand pump works don’t mess with it and go ahead and get hooked up to city water for the house.
You’ll be glad you did as you age. If you haven’t replaced that pump since before y2k then you will have to put some serious money in it soon.
And make sure the trench is well below the frost line and add access holes for those valves, just insulate the snot out of them for the occasional deep freeze. And if you are running pex run it inside natural gas pipe line. Pex is peanut based, natrual gas line is designed with a plastic that repels rodents from munching on things including gophers and moles.A couple of notations: Don't know if it will help.
1) throw the main in the fuse box to off. Remove cover. Don't do anything except go through all the wire hookups and tighten them. Son bought a new dryer, and it didn't work. Plugged it into the same outlet. Nothing. Electrician came out replaced the motor checked a bunch of other stuff, and finally discovered that the ground wire, was loose. That was it. tightened it and everything worked. Dryer ran off of 220, and wasn't getting enough whatever to work. And no one had been in the box. Replace cover, throw main back on. Stand back. Just in case.
2) here in our community, state, nation, hemisphere it may be different, but....... The community water will only put the meter in. Running the line to your house is on you. You'll need someone to contract to do it with a ditchwitch, pipe, plumbing the whole 9 yards. And while you're at it, if you have one installed make sure they put in a manual open close value as the water enters the house. Our water bill is 25.00 a month rarely go over the allotment, which is mostly in summer and we use rainwater to supplement, and you can use your hand pump for watering your garden.
BTW our community water system uses chloramines to disinfect the water. Making it safe for people with kidney problems, like dialysis, to drink. That may or may not spike your conspiracy meter.
Umm is it possible to get a permanently installed boom so you can do things later again?Our pump is 160 feet down in the well--submersible.
With the iron hand-pump at the top of the well-shaft (drilled, 6 inches), sharing the same hole.
To get the pump out they first have to remove the hand-pump, and to just get UNDER the hand-pump to where the well-pump wires are, they will have to draw up the entire length of the hand-pump piping.
So I am told.
Thus the need for a boom-truck.
Which we can't get "to" the well, because it's at the top of a hill, and our whole yard is a mushy slop-hole right now because of 5 inches of rain last week on February 26, and another 3 last night.
The tank, pressure switch, and capacitor for the pump are in the basement.
I did try someone's suggestion above of going thru the breaker box and turning off ALL breakers and then turning them all back on.
Didn't help, but at least we know that's been tried.
It keeps nagging at my brain that they said the pressure-switch was found stopped with the "points touching"--meaning in the "on" position.
If it lost power, why didn't they release?
are they melted together?Our pump is 160 feet down in the well--submersible.
With the iron hand-pump at the top of the well-shaft (drilled, 6 inches), sharing the same hole.
To get the pump out they first have to remove the hand-pump, and to just get UNDER the hand-pump to where the well-pump wires are, they will have to draw up the entire length of the hand-pump piping.
So I am told.
Thus the need for a boom-truck.
Which we can't get "to" the well, because it's at the top of a hill, and our whole yard is a mushy slop-hole right now because of 5 inches of rain last week on February 26, and another 3 last night.
The tank, pressure switch, and capacitor for the pump are in the basement.
I did try someone's suggestion above of going thru the breaker box and turning off ALL breakers and then turning them all back on.
Didn't help, but at least we know that's been tried.
It keeps nagging at my brain that they said the pressure-switch was found stopped with the "points touching"--meaning in the "on" position.
If it lost power, why didn't they release?
I see the problem...Problem is---if by "testing the circuits from above" you meant AT the well-head---
the presence of the hand-pump-----ON THE SAME WELL-HEAD---makes that impossible without pulling off the hand-pump and pulling up the however-long-it-is pipe with its stainless-steel rod inside that works the Lehman hand pump.
And we can't get anybody's TRUCK in there, to do that pulling off & up of the HAND-pump--due to my yard being a mud-hole from all the rain.
Here's the hand-pump I have on top of the well-head:
View attachment 464518
Versatile Pump Heads
Lehman's® deep-well pump heads are of the highest quality. The differences in pumps are the features they offer. Check features carefully to determine which pump-head is required for your application. 100% cast iron body built for hard use Pivot points ride on hardened, stainless steel pins...www.lehmans.com
At least, thanks to the hand-pump, we have ANY water at ALL.............................
GOOD IDEA. I will bear it in mind.Umm is it possible to get a permanently installed boom so you can do things later again?
240 vs 120I see the problem...
"at the well head" is not possible, but the wire(s) from the pump must come out somewhere.
From there go to the first point where they are hooked up to something. This will be the control box for the pump, probably: line, line and start. The line/ line will come from the pressure switch line/ line. and the breaker (shutoff) will be
between the pressure switch and the main panel. Each section has to be verified for continuity.
If they used a breaker in the main panel as Equipment Disconnect then the wiring should go main panel to pressure switch. (Maybe the electricians wired both lines to the same phase?) line line is 240VAC
I hope you don't have a 120-V pump! In that case my advice would be worthless.