FARM My 2016 wood chip Garden

changed

Preferred pronouns: dude/bro
Here are some pics of this year's garden. I have been mulching with wood chips since 2012. It is so awesome. I don't till anymore. I just use a pointed hoe to create a furrow and put seeds in the soil. Then cover with a light layer of the wood chip material, which now has the appearance of dark soil. In my garden I have onions, potatoes, lots of potatoes, chinese cabbage which has flowered, alfalfa, tomatoes, sweet potatoes, leeks, okra, field corn, indian corn, rye, garlic, wheat, volunteer sunflowers, collards, and alugbati. Some of the stuff I will eat, the other stuff will be fed to rabbits and chickens. In the first pic on the left side there are red raspberries which I finally got under control. In the top middle of the second picture is a rabbit tractor. Weeds are not a problem except for one. I believe its bermuda grass, but I'm not sure. It produces runners that grow along the ground and start to root all along the stolon. You can pull the weed up but if you miss one little piece it grows back.
 

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dunebuggy

Contributing Member
Ha! It looks like a lot of fun. This'll be my third year doing wood chip gardening, and it's similar to how you are doing. Much easier than before, and everything is growing well. As long as I have some good compost, it grows all on its own.

I plan on taking a drive by Paul Gautschi this summer for one of his garden tours. Have a ton of questions to ask him.

For those interested, here's a 5 hour (!) video of one of Paul's tours:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vuXU0aFpgk

If you're a little busy, then this 2 hour one is pretty good, too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uM_gtZb8qyk
 

summerthyme

Administrator
_______________
What is a rabbit tractor?

Same thing as a "chicken tractor"- a movable cage/enclosure that's bottomless so it allows the animals within to graze/eat bugs, seeds, etc...

in areas where predators (or neighbors who don't like chickens scratching in their flower gardens!) are a problem, they protect the animals, yet still allow them to graze and collect food, without the risks of free ranging.

Summerthyme
 

zeker

Has No Life - Lives on TB
I am just making raised beds and filling them with the wood chips from 4 yrs ago. even tho the chips had been tossed by the tractor and have had fresh cow manure added last yr.. I still see that they are not composted enuf.

regardless, I topped the raised beds with leaf mulch. each fall I go around town and claim bags of leaves that the homeowners have raked.

the leaves go into my fenced chicken run and the girls have at it.

by spring this is truly wonderful compost.

I just hope its enuf to entice a few worms to help with the wood chips,
 

China Connection

TB Fanatic
Try some rock dust with it plus some dolomite and natural Phosphate fertilizer and natural potash. Also some blood meal. When meaning the time of year when you add this and that fertilizer is important with many crops.
 

ittybit

Inactive
http://www.richsoil.com/hugelkultur/

hugelkultur: the ultimate raised garden beds

It's a german word and some people can say it all german-ish. I'm an american doofus, so I say "hoogle culture". I had to spend some time with google to find the right spelling. Hugal, hoogal, huegal, hugel .... And I really like saying it out loud: "hugelkultur, hoogle culture, hoogal kulture ...." - it could be a chant or something.

I learned this high-falootin word at my permaculture training. I also saw it demonstrated on the Sepp Holzer terraces and raised beds video - he didn't call it hugelkultur, but he was doing it.

Hugelkultur is nothing more than making raised garden beds filled with rotten wood. This makes for raised garden beds loaded with organic material, nutrients, air pockets for the roots of what you plant, etc. As the years pass, the deep soil of your raised garden bed becomes incredibly rich and loaded with soil life. As the wood shrinks, it makes more tiny air pockets - so your hugelkultur becomes sort of self tilling. The first few years, the composting process will slightly warm your soil giving you a slightly longer growing season. The woody matter helps to keep nutrient excess from passing into the ground water - and then refeeding that to your garden plants later. Plus, by holding SO much water, hugelkultur could be part of a system for growing garden crops in the desert with no irrigation.

I do think there are some considerations to keep in mind. For example, I don't think I would use cedar. Cedar lasts so long because it is loaded with natural pesticides/herbicides/anti-fungal/anti-microbial (remember, good soil has lots of fungal and microbial stuff). Not a good mix for tomatoes or melons, eh? Black locust, black cherry, black walnut? These woods have issues. Black locust won't rot - I think because it is so dense. Black walnut is very toxic to most plants, and cherry is toxic to animals, but it might be okay when it rots - but I wouldn't use it until I had done the research. Known excellent woods are: alders, apple, cottonwood, poplar, willow (dry) and birch. I suspect maples would be really good too, but am not certain. Super rotten wood is better than slightly aged wood. The best woods are even better when they have been cut the same day (this allows you to "seed" the wood with your choice of fungus - shitake mushrooms perhaps?).

Another thing to keep in mind is that wood is high in carbon and will consume nitrogen to do the compost thing. This could lock up the nitrogen and take it away from your growies. But well rotted wood doesn't do this so much. If the wood is far enough along, it may have already taken in sooooo much nitrogen, that it is now putting it out!

Pine and fir will have some levels of tanins in them, but I'm guessing that most of that will be gone when the wood has been dead for a few years.

In the drawings at right, the artist is trying to show that while the wood decomposes and shrinks, the leaves, duff and accumulating organic matter from above will take it's place. The artist is showing the new organic matter as a dark green.
 

Cyclonemom

Veteran Member
This will be my first year for BTE. It is too cold yet here to plant what's planned for that bed this year (Freeze warning tonight!), but so far it's a great chicken attractant! :)

As for your problem weed, does it look like the pics below? If so, it's quackgrass. Completely took over my strawberry beds a couple years ago. Roundup doesn't really work. It will kill the immediate blades that were sprayed, but it sends up new shoots very quickly. Since I don't want to increase the possibility of roundup resistance, I solarized the whole area last summer. Worked pretty well. The 20% or so that was left was much easier to dig out and eradicate.

quackgrass_rhizome2.jpg


1459493.jpg
 

changed

Preferred pronouns: dude/bro
I didn't take this picture, but it looks like this. All other weeds I can either pull or rake out so easily. This one though - whew.
 

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changed

Preferred pronouns: dude/bro
Same thing as a "chicken tractor"- a movable cage/enclosure that's bottomless so it allows the animals within to graze/eat bugs, seeds, etc...

in areas where predators (or neighbors who don't like chickens scratching in their flower gardens!) are a problem, they protect the animals, yet still allow them to graze and collect food, without the risks of free ranging.

Summerthyme

This is right. For rabbits you must have something on the bottom or they will dig out. I have cage material where the mesh opening is 1 and a half inches X 6 inches. That's big enough for the rabbits to get at the grass, but small enough to keep them in. When I move the cage around they mow the grass and leave behind urine and doo doo that's high in nitrogen.
 

ittybit

Inactive
Three kinds of gardening: typical 'scratch', wood chip topper, hugel bed
 

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Sherrynboo

Veteran Member
I am plagued with the dreaded bermuda grass as well! I have a BTE garden for the most part and it has turned my rock hard red clay into beautiful loamy black dirt! I did have to take the tiller into a part that was overrun with bermuda to plant my corn but it turned out well. Those roots run deep and go on forever! It had to be devised by Monsanto:)
 

packyderms_wife

Neither here nor there.
Ha! It looks like a lot of fun. This'll be my third year doing wood chip gardening, and it's similar to how you are doing. Much easier than before, and everything is growing well. As long as I have some good compost, it grows all on its own.

I plan on taking a drive by Paul Gautschi this summer for one of his garden tours. Have a ton of questions to ask him.

For those interested, here's a 5 hour (!) video of one of Paul's tours:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vuXU0aFpgk

If you're a little busy, then this 2 hour one is pretty good, too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uM_gtZb8qyk

I want to do this :xpnd: but I'm that sucker that'll watch the five hour show. Guess it's time to figure out how to stream youtube on the smart tv!
 

packyderms_wife

Neither here nor there.
This is right. For rabbits you must have something on the bottom or they will dig out. I have cage material where the mesh opening is 1 and a half inches X 6 inches. That's big enough for the rabbits to get at the grass, but small enough to keep them in. When I move the cage around they mow the grass and leave behind urine and doo doo that's high in nitrogen.


A neighbor a couple of blocks away has both chicken and rabbit tractors in her lawn, made me want to take a bulldozer to my driveway and put in some native plants, grasses, and oats for some critters.
 

packyderms_wife

Neither here nor there.
Here are some pics of this year's garden. I have been mulching with wood chips since 2012. It is so awesome. I don't till anymore. I just use a pointed hoe to create a furrow and put seeds in the soil. Then cover with a light layer of the wood chip material, which now has the appearance of dark soil. In my garden I have onions, potatoes, lots of potatoes, chinese cabbage which has flowered, alfalfa, tomatoes, sweet potatoes, leeks, okra, field corn, indian corn, rye, garlic, wheat, volunteer sunflowers, collards, and alugbati. Some of the stuff I will eat, the other stuff will be fed to rabbits and chickens. In the first pic on the left side there are red raspberries which I finally got under control. In the top middle of the second picture is a rabbit tractor. Weeds are not a problem except for one. I believe its bermuda grass, but I'm not sure. It produces runners that grow along the ground and start to root all along the stolon. You can pull the weed up but if you miss one little piece it grows back.

My beds are all raised now, due to mobility issues, OC is building two new ones for me the large one is half finished (3.5x9 feet and 28" tall) with a bunch of old lumber, wood, cardboard, etc., in the bottom. We were going to throw 17 4 gallon buckets of sand in it, and now thanks to this post I'm thinking of topping it off with compost and woodchips. This will be my leek, onion, and garlic bed once it's finished. I'll plant companion plants in this bed as well, sort of a square foot gardening, lasagna style gardening.
 

changed

Preferred pronouns: dude/bro
Here are closeup pics of the rabbit tractor and chicken tractor. The chicken tractor has a bantam hen and chick in it. The rabbit tractor has a female in it that will give birth in a week from now. The tractor in the background has the male rabbit.
 

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China Connection

TB Fanatic
It is great to have chip on hand to use but chip has limited minerals in it. Putting stuff like rockdust with it will give you much better results. Also a product like blood-meal added every six or eight weeks will also help things along.
 
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mecoastie

Veteran Member
We were just up today cleaning up our BTE garden and getting ready to plant. Spread the chicken litter and wood ash out and hacked back the blackberries. Hope to plant this week. We add chips every couple years between the rows. We put down a thin layer of manure from a local farmer and then a layer of fresh chips. In the fall after the harvest we rake everything smooth. It has worked well for several years. THis year my wife is more involved because I have a habit of planting all over and not keeping straight rows. She likes straight rows and not haivng to dodge plants. I do still maintain about half the garden as conventional. THere I plant flint corn, potatoes and beans. I would go all BTE if it wasnt for the corn. I tihnk using the seeder would be a pain with the wood chips.
 

mecoastie

Veteran Member
It is great to have chip on hand to use but chip has limited minerals in it. Putting stuff like rockdust with it will give you much better results. Also a product like blood-meal added every six oreight weeks will also help things along.

No need. Havent needed rockdust since we switched to BTE. Using ramial chips provides a fairly well balanced amount of minerals and nutrients.
 

China Connection

TB Fanatic
Back to Eden—How Simple, Natural Methods Can Take the Work Out of Gardening, and Boost Your Harvest
June 21, 2014 | 372,095 views

Video: http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2014/06/21/back-to-eden-organic-gardening.aspx

By Dr. Mercola

The featured documentary, Back to Eden, reveals a simple organic gardening method that can not only transform your personal garden, but may even be part of the food solution needed on a global scale as well.

Far from being life sustaining, our modern, large-scale, chemical-dependent farming methods strip soil of nutrients, destroy critical soil microbes, contribute to the creation of deserts where nothing will grow, and saturate farmlands with toxic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers that then migrate into ground water, rivers, lakes, and oceans.

This video really inspired me and after watching it I called my local tree cutting service and was able to get three truckloads of wood-chips dropped on my driveway for free and wheel barreled them on my landscape. The great thing about the wood chips is that they are waste and most companies will give you all you want. I plan on adding more every few months.

One important aspect I learned though is that the wood chip pile will tend to decompose rather rapidly if you don't spread it on your landscape right away. So it is best to spread the chips over a few days and not leave it in a pile. Otherwise you will wind up needing to wear a mask when you use a pitchfork to move the chips into your wheel barrel to avoid inhaling the dust..

I am convinced that Paul makes load of sense and that this is a crucial part of the equation for creating healthy soil to produce healthy plants. Wood chips seem to eliminate the need for any fertilizer or mineral supplements, reduce watering and make weeding a snap.

I hope you will overlook the religious overtones of this film if that doesn't appeal to you, because regardless of your religious beliefs (or lack thereof), the information shared still has tremendous value, and is sure to be of interest to anyone concerned with sustainable agriculture. As presented by Documentary Storm:1

"Dana & Sarah Films, a nomadic grassroots film production company, travel to Washington where Paul Gautschi has developed a revolutionary gardening technique that is estimated to cut back on the need for irrigation by up to 95 percent.

Paul is known locally as a master arborist and is now inspiring people across the nation to experiment with his gardening methods by starting their own 'Back to Eden' gardens."

Back to Eden—Nature Is Self-Sustaining

What many fail to realize is that your health ultimately depends on the health of the soil—this is what allows your food, the vegetables and fruits, to grow nutrient-dense. When soils are depleted of nutrients, the foods grown in it will be deficient in critical minerals and phytonutrients as well.

Unfortunately, that's the state of a large portion of the Earth's soils today. Clearly, the answer to correcting soils depleted of nutrients is NOT to add even more chemical fertilizers. The "magical" ingredient that maintains and maximizes soil health is actually the microorganisms living in the soil. This includes bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and microscopic roundworms called nematodes.

Far from being scourges to be avoided, microorganisms are an essential necessity for optimized plant growth. We now understand that it is the cooperation between these microorganisms, the soil's biome, and the plants' roots, called rhizosphere that is ultimately responsible for allowing the plant to absorb nutrients from the soil in which it's grown.

As discussed in the featured film, nature is self-sustaining. When left alone, the ground becomes covered with leaves and organic materials that then turn into lush compost and adds nutrients back to the soil. This top layer of organic material also shields the soil and helps retain moisture.

By imitating nature and simply covering his garden with wood chips, Paul Gautschi doesn't need to water any of his plants, even in the summer. And his garden yields plenty of large, well-formed, juicy fruits, berries, and vegetables.

While you certainly can purchase wood chips, Paul suggests contacting your local tree service to get large amounts. These are basically tree branches that have gone through a wood chipper.

They usually have to get rid of all these wood chips anyway, so you may be able to get it for next to nothing, opposed to buying bags of mulch from a gardening center. As stated by Documentary Storm:

"In these days of genetically modified organisms, leafy greens replete with pesticides, drought, fruits and vegetables that are deficient of nutrients, soil that is depleted of minerals, and a myriad of problems and side effects that have risen because of the aforementioned, Paul Gautschi seems to have an answer that almost seems too simple to believe."

Others have duplicated his efforts, reaping the same fantastic results. For example, the film also features Ronald and Sylvia Richardson, who were inspired to follow in Paul's footsteps after a visit to his garden in 2010, and the McOmber family, who have also successfully implemented his methods in their garden.

A Nearly Magical Soil Amendment, the Results of Which Will Shock You

One of the keys to a truly successful garden is to improve the microbiology of the soil. Many people don't appreciate that it's NOT the Miracle Grow you put in your garden that give you disease-resistant and nutrient-dense food, but the diverse collection of bacteria, fungi, and parasites that actually transfer the nutrients from the soil into the plant.

The Miracle Grow will supply some nutrients, but these salts actually kill the soil microbes. Although the film does not discuss this, I believe that one of the primary reasons why Paul's experiment is so successful is due to the beneficial effect on microorganism growth.

Last year, I experimented in my own garden by spreading 15 gallons of vortexed compost tea (basically compost tea that has been stirred, creating a vortex in the bucket) nearly every day for six months. Each ounce of the tea had hundreds of trillions of beneficial microbes. Since I was applying 2,000 ounces to my garden, that's a lot of microbes! While that provided some benefit, I was still disappointed with the results.

What I learned from that experience is that these microbes need a home to hang out in, live, and multiply. Without a proper home they simply die, soon after being applied... As it turns out, Biochar fits the bill perfectly. I applied about eight tons on my property and am noticing major improvements. One does not have to apply this much, but I am involved in doing a Biochar experiment. Fifty or a few hundred pounds may be more than sufficient for many small gardens.

Biochar is created by slowly burning biomass like wood chips, corn stalks, coconut shells, or any similar organic material, in a low-oxygen environment, such as a kiln. When burned this way, the carbon in the organic material is not released into the atmosphere as CO2; rather it traps the carbon and forms a type of charcoal that has a reef-like structure, which serves as a magnificent microbial home. Besides providing excellent living quarters for soil microorganisms, Biochar also has a number of other benefits, including:

Returning much of the depleted carbon to the soil (carbon sequestration), where it can remain for hundreds or even thousands of years
Improving overall soil quality and fertility
Raising the soil's water retention ability
Potentially helping to "filter" toxic chemicals in the soil, much like carbon-based water filtration systems can filter toxins out of your water

Biochar Strongly Supports Plant Growth

The introduction of Biochar into soil is not like applying fertilizer; rather it's the beginning of a process—most of the benefit is achieved through the activity of the microbes and fungi that take up residence in the treated soil. They colonize its massive surface area and integrate into the char and the surrounding soil, dramatically increasing the soil's ability to nurture plant growth.

One of the major benefits of Biochar is that it is highly stable and typically lasts for many centuries, if not longer. So it is one soil amendment that does not need to be regularly applied. In this respect, it is far superior to wood chips. As explained in a recent Ecologist2 article, research shows Biochar can more than double a plant's yield! The researchers also discovered the "how" behind this remarkable result. As reported in the article:

"They also tracked for the first time the changes in genetic expression that followed from applying biochar. The response of more than 10,000 genes was followed simultaneously, and two growth promoting plant hormones - brassinosteroids and auxins, together with their signalling molecules - were stimulated by the biochar. Professor Taylor said: 'Our findings provide the very first insight into how biochar stimulates plant growth - we now know that cell expansion is stimulated in roots and leaves alike and this appears to be the consequence of a complex signalling network that is focused around two plant growth hormones.'"

Urban Gardening Is the Answer to Many of Our Problems

There's no doubt that urban gardening and farming is an important step toward building a more sustainable food system. In fact, I've been encouraging everyone to plant a "Victory Garden" as a proactive step toward fixing our broken food system and improving your health. They are named Victory Gardens because 40 percent of the produce grown in the US during the War was in people's backyards. I really think it is possible to catalyze a similar movement for a different purpose. The new reality is that for most people, it is very difficult to obtain high-quality nutrient-dense foods unless you grow them yourself.

Food grown in your own garden is overall fresher, more nutritious, and tastes better than store-bought food—and you can't beat the price! Urban gardens are also key to saving energy, protecting water quality and topsoil, and promoting biodiversity and beautifying densely populated communities. It may even be the U-turn we need in order to rein in out-of-control rates of depression, much of which may be rooted in the feeling of being disconnected from nature, and hence disconnected from our own selves...

According to a survey by Gardeners' World Magazine, 80 percent of gardeners reported being "happy" and satisfied with their lives, compared to 67 percent of non-gardeners. Monty Don, a TV presenter and garden writer, attributes the wellbeing of gardeners to the "recharging" you get from sticking your hands in the soil and spending time outdoors in nature. This seems more than reasonable when you consider the health benefits associated with grounding, also known as Earthing. As detailed in the documentary film Grounded, the surface of the Earth holds subtle health-boosting energy, and all you have to do is touch it.

Walking barefoot on the Earth transfers free electrons from the Earth's surface into your body that spread throughout your tissues. Grounding has been shown to relieve pain, reduce inflammation, improve sleep, and enhance your well-being. Many a gardener will attest to the sense of wellbeing obtained from sticking your hands in the dirt as well, and this is separate from the pleasure of accomplishment that comes from eating your own home-grown food.

Basic Biochar Guidelines

If you're planning on starting a garden, I heartily endorse Biochar. You just need to make sure it is activated by either combining it with compost, rock dust powder, or my favorite, human urine. The urine is a phenomenal source of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus and will bind strongly to the carbon in the Biochar rather than draining away. The nitrogen balances the carbon in the Biochar and serves as food for the microbes, which in turn feed the plant for the long term. A friend of mine did this last year in his garden and his plants produced so many vegetables they almost seemed like mutants.

Wetting the Biochar is also important in order to promote beneficial earthworms. One 2011 study3 found that earthworms tend to avoid dry Biochar, but that wetting the char resulted in "statistically undetectable avoidance." According to the authors: "nsufficient moisture could be a key factor affecting earthworm behavior in soil amended with dry biochar. To avoid desiccation of invertebrates and enable their beneficial ecosystem services, we recommend wetting biochar either before or immediately after soil application."

You can certainly add Biochar to existing plants, shrubs, and trees, but ideally it's best if it's in the soil prior to planting, so the plants have an ideal form of nutrition early on. If you have a small garden, you might only need a few hundred pounds. Larger landscapes will require more.

Gardeners Beware: Pesticides Also Kill Off Beneficial Earthworms

Getting back to earthworms for a brief moment, these creepy-crawlers also play an important role in maintaining the health of the soil. Pesticides, which are commonly sprayed on crops to protect them against being ravaged by pests, also have a devastating effect on earthworms living beneath the soil, which is yet another reason to avoid chemical gardening. Research shows that earthworms exposed to pesticides grow to only half their normal weight. Pesticide exposure also has a detrimental impact on their ability to reproduce, and untreated soils can contain as much as two to three times as many earthworms as treated soils. As reported by the Cornucopia Institute:4

"Pesticides have a direct impact on the physiology and behavior of earthworms, a Danish/French research team reports after having studied earthworms that were exposed to pesticides over generations.'We see that the worms have developed methods to detoxify themselves, so that they can live in soil sprayed with fungicide.

They spend a lot of energy on detoxifying, and that comes with a cost: The worms do not reach the same size as other worms, and we see that there are fewer of them in sprayed soil. An explanation could be that they are less successful at reproducing, because they spend their energy on ridding themselves of the pesticide,' the researchers, Ph. D. student Nicolas Givaudan and associate professor, Claudia Wiegand, say."

Working WITH Nature Rather Than Against It, That's the Future of Farming

Researchers are increasingly starting to recognize gut microbiota as one of your most unappreciated "organs."5 It may even be more appropriate to view your body as a "super organism" composed of symbiotic microorganisms. Probiotics are even becoming widely accepted and adopted in the conventional medical community to support health. In soil, we have a very similar process. The health of the plants, and those who eat those plants, all stand to benefit from the optimization of soil microbiology. Optimizing soil biology also strengthens plants against pest infestations without having to resort to chemical warfare that kills far more than the insects they're designed to destroy.

Research shows that there's constant communication going on between plants via the rhizosphere (root ball). Plants "talk" to one another through aerial emissions—the volatile gasses they emit—and also through the mycelial networks in the soil. This is a major insight that deepens our understanding of the importance of nurturing and maintaining healthy soil microbiome.

It also explains why you don't really need synthetic chemicals to grow large amounts of food. On the contrary, the chemicals used in modern agriculture are killing the very foundation of health—the microbiome in the soil. In short, if you support and nurture the microbiome in soil, it in turn will provide you with good nutrition and optimal health through the food grown in it. As noted by Documentary Storm:

"A sustainable permaculture revolution is at hand as a solution to earth's mistreatment and the unwillingness of the US government to protect its citizens from agribusiness giants... When the burden of proof is in the hands of the affected to prove the food-like products are negatively affecting their health, the safest thing to do is grow the most nutritious food we can at the smallest expense in order to push these food-like products out of market. Paul's garden is an example of sustainable permaculture at its best."
 

China Connection

TB Fanatic
Back to Eden Film


http://www.backtoedenfilm.com/


Back to Eden Film shares the story of one man’s lifelong journey, walking with God and learning how to get back to the simple, productive organic gardening methods of sustainable provision that were given to man in the garden of Eden. The food growing system that has resulted from Paul Gautschi’s incredible experiences has garnered the interest of visitors from around the world. Never, until now, have Paul’s organic gardening methods been documented and shared like this!
Since its release in August 2011, Back to Eden has been viewed online over 2.5 million times in 220 countries! The film has been endorsed by the National Gardening Association, Organic Consumers Association, and Dr. Mercola. Publications featuring Back to Eden include Mother Earth News, Sunset magazine, Organic Gardens Today, Organic New Zealand. Back to Eden has been broadcast on Amazing Discoveries TV and Capetown TV. Our documentary has participated in the Grow Your Own Food Summit (2014), The Ecology of Food Exhibition (2012), and was an official selection of the Awareness Film Festival (2011) and praised award winner in the Green Unplugged Film Festival (2013)



http://www.backtoedenfilm.com/
 

China Connection

TB Fanatic
Back to Eden Gardening Method! Simply Incredible! - YouTube
Video for bte gardening
▶ 4:13
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CjptUYhEdU
Jan 16, 2012 - Uploaded by Larry Hall
BACK TO EDEN shares the story of one man's lifelong journey, walking with God and learning how to get ...
Back To Eden Organic Gardening Film | How to Grow a Vegetable ...
Video for bte gardening
▶ 19:41
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiGof48XVCQ
Oct 11, 2015 - Uploaded by Dana & Sarah Films
Learn how to plant a Back to Eden organic garden and grow your own food here: https://www.backtoedenfilm ...
 

China Connection

TB Fanatic
I will still go with added rockdust etc. I like Scoria Rock a lot better than Bio Char too.

Scoria - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scoria
Scoria has several useful characteristics that influence how it is used. It is somewhat porous, has high surface area and strength for its weight, and often has striking colours. Scoria is often used in landscaping and drainage works. It is also commonly used in gas barbecue grills.
‎Comparisons - ‎Formation - ‎Uses - ‎Images
 

PaulC

Contributing Member
Changed, your BTE garden is beautiful. This is my 3rd spring for my BTE garden. The positive change in the soil quality is amazing. You have to experience it to believe it. I recommend the Back to Eden method to everyone I can. Just pull back the chips, and plant the seeds, or plants, in the soil. That's it, just that simple, and watch God's abundance Bless you.
 

dunebuggy

Contributing Member
I want to do this :xpnd: but I'm that sucker that'll watch the five hour show. Guess it's time to figure out how to stream youtube on the smart tv!

Packyderm,

I usually download the youtube videos to my machine so I can watch later without streaming (and to save the video long-term).

To download and save, you can use either of these Firefox add-ons:

1. 1-Click YouTube Video Downloader,
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/1-click-youtube-video-downl/

2. Download YouTube Videos as MP4
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/download-youtube/

Either one of these will add a "Download" button to every youtube page. You press Download, and that's it - the video will be saved to your hard drive to watch later on.
 

China Connection

TB Fanatic
Making your own soil
Gardeners have been exposed to unlimited explanations about the nature of soil and how to improve it with amendments. They have read volumes about compost, manure tea, bloodmeal, bonemeal and the mysterious greensand, and others whose spelling should include $ signs as the first and last letters.

But what is the gardener to do whose property is on 27 foot of sand. Soil amendments will disappear like money in a wishing well. Sand is a bottomless pit. Similarly, gardeners who live on clay or mostly rock have difficulty incorporating the standard formula for amending the soil because their soils are very hard to work and even harder to mix with other materials. My own property is yellow clay. In the spring, it is soft mud, because it will not drain. In the summer, it may as well be granite. Until the first of June, seeds and transplants alike must be placed on the surface of the soil, then mounded over to cover, in order to avoid immediate rot.

The answer for some of these poor drainage conditions, as we all know, is raised beds. We understand how they will drain better, and warm up faster in the sun, etc. Then, as we are wondering where the soil for raised beds is going to come from, the authors describe the hilling attachments on their garden tillers, and show nice photos of neat raised beds in their loamy gardens. If you have nice loamy soil to begin with, you would be able to produce decent crops without going to the trouble of making raised beds. For the rest of us gardeners, making a raised bed usually requires the construction of a frame to hold the soil we steal from elsewhere on the property (amended with compost, etc.) or have purchased from the local nursery. We fill the frames with expensive materials, only to watch with horror as the improved drainage includes the leaching away of our soil. Year after year, we fill up the beds again with dollars flying by like dancing butterflies. The soil does not wash out of my raised beds. Read on, and find out why.

For some time I had been getting truckloads of wood chips from my municipal public works department. I further ground these up in my shredder in order to get the wet green stuff (yard and garden waste) to go through the screens without gumming up. So, it was two corn stalks followed by one fork full of chips, and so on. The resulting mixture served as a great mulch around the shrubs, and a good fill for depressions, etc. I would never plant anything in it because all the magazines said that decomposing wood requires more nitrogen than the surrounding soil can supply, and there would be none for the plants. Further, they said you could not grow cucurbits and melons within a yard of wood chips, or they would shrivel up and die. Further, they said that you would never want to do this anyway because everone knows that wood chips create acid soil. I believe those adages to be incorrect, first, on a theoretical basis, and second from personal experience.

The theory that wood chips and pine needles and oak leaves create acid as they decompose has to have been invented by someone who is still confused by the chicken first, or egg first controversy. In nature, all decisions are based on natural selection over time. If the largest concentration of pine forests or oak forests happen to be found where the soil tends to be more acid than not, does that mean that the acidity was somehow formed by the trees? Of course not; when tree seeds are distributed by nature, those that land and germinate in areas which are favorable to their growth are going to thrive. So, as a general rule, plants of all description are going to do best in areas where they grow and reproduce the best, i.e., the plants selected the soil, not the other way around. It is just too easy to assume that because oak and pine trees prefer acid soils, that their decomposing leaves created the acidity in the soil. Those soils were acid before the trees got there, or the trees would not have thrived and created forests. Flying in the face of reported science, these opinions would probably not hold up to laboratory analysis in a test tube. But as a practical matter, your garden is your laboratory, and the results obtained there will determine what you prefer to believe. My experiments with soil amendments and Blueberry bushes indicate that changes in soil Ph can only be obtained with corresponding changes in the mineral content of that soil. Mulches composed of garden wastes, garden compost, leaf mold, composted wood chips, or any composted biodegradable materials found on your own property, will never create any significant long term change in the Ph of your soil.

One January, the public works department offered me a load of ground up Christmas trees. I accepted thinking that I could always use some more mulch. Some of it I put in raised beds that I had constructed, just to get it out of the way quickly. Some of it was put in large utility areas for storage. The rest, I used as pathways in my veggie garden. At the end of that summer, I noticed that my pathways had richer looking soil than my garden beds. As I had not run this material through my own shredder, the wood chips were large and prominent, and they made a stable path. So, that September, at garlic planting time in Chicago, I put all my garlic cloves in a four inch deep bed of this material which was sitting on Agrimat cloth, so there was no actual contact with the soil. In the following spring, I planted ornamentals in similarly situated beds as an experiment. I also planted some of each type of transplant in adjacent beds with my best garden soil, for comparison. To my surprise, the following July, I harvested the biggest garlic cloves I had ever seen. And the ornamentals in the good garden soil never attained the size, nor did they flower as early, as those planted in the composted Christmas tree soil. I measured the Ph at 6.5, not very acid, I thought. Take note that in the absence of soil, the decomposed pine needles and chips had a Ph very close to neutral. It turns out in fact, that there are few, if any, materials whose Ph differs from neutral when fully composted.

The following January, and every year since, I have obtained all of the Christmas trees that my city collected, then ground up. I run them through my own shredder to further reduce the size of the woody parts, immediately if the weather is nice, or later in the summer; it seems not to matter much. This material is then spread out at a depth of 18 to 30 inches, so that the water will not run off, and the pine needles can decompose rapidly. Weather permitting, this chore can be finished by February 15th as I only get about 12 cu. yards. As the years pass, I continually marvel at the improvement in every area of my gardens. The composted firs, spruces, and balsams create a loamy friable soil that holds moisture without being wet. Plants grown in this medium, with no fertilizer added, outperform their brothers and sisters grown in compost amended garden soil, in every category, from root structure to flowering to wind resistance. There is only one downside that I noticed. That is, the soil is so loose that medium sized top heavy plants which would normally not require staking in heavy soil, must be staked in order to remain upright in loose soil. During 1996, out of curiosity and perhaps as a public service, I grew lime loving brassicas and wood hating cucurbits (with excellent results) in Christmas tree soil to prove my point. That is, if you haven't the good soil of the gardening magazine authors, make it yourself! And, if your soil is impossible to work with, don't bother. Make your own soil and garden on top of the land.

Photo of Garden Compost. Photo of Christmas Tree compost.

If the photos were not labeled, could you tell the difference? The Xmas tree compost is looser (more friable); it drains faster, but will not dry out.

Photo of Seedlings in Xmas Tree Compost.Seedling perennials transplanted to Xmas tree compost grow faster, bloom earlier, and are very easy to lift next spring for transfer to their permanent location.

Do not confuse the manufacture of soil with the use of mulch. Composting wood chips, with or without leafy green matter, at depths of 6" to 36" creates conditions under which nothing will grow. Do not situate compost piles within the driplines of your trees, because you will be depriving your tree roots of oxygen. Put your compost piles in areas where there is full exposure to rain and sunshine in order to get faster conversion to soil.

Any wood chip mixture can be used as mulch, however, the depth of the material should not exceed 2 to 3 inches, as its only purpose is to prevent moisture loss from the soil. I do not recommend that plant crowns be covered with wood chip mulches at any time. Straw is a better covering for winter protection of tender perennials.

One caveat: the first time I approached the public works department for wood chips, they answered that they were grinding up tree prunings, some of which were diseased, and I certainly would not want that. The next time, the excuse was that their shredder passed the slim branches through without cutting them, and the material would be useless as mulch because I could not fork it, being such a tangled mess. The next time, the truth came out; they didn't want to drive a dump truck onto private property because of the liability in the case of damage or injury. Finally, out of desperation, I wrote a letter to the mayor. I pointed out that they were spending a lot of my money taking this material to the landfill. Needless to say, the letter worked wonders. And, the Director of Public Works turns out to be a really nice guy. So, if you get those kinds of answers, you know what to do. It helps if you can mention that you have your own shredder, and that you will be combining this material with all of the land waste generated on your property, further saving the land fill from an early retirement.

If your public works department does not cooperate or does not grind up Christmas trees, you can collect them yourself from the curb between Christmas day and January 15th. You can load a sided 4 x 8 ft trailer with about 15 trees at a time, without having to tie anything down. When you are ready to process the trees, hack off the branches with a hand axe or a machete. Do not run the tree trunks through your shredder at this time. Save them to make bean towers or other vine supports. Grind them later when you need mulch rather than soil. It will take about 60 trees to make 2 cu. yds. of soil.

The advertisements for shredders show people grinding tree prunings and shredding leaves, etc. I don't use my 7 hp chipper/shredder in this manner. During the growing season, I run garden and yard wastes through the shredder with the screen removed, so that no chips have to be added to keep it from jamming up with wet green stuff. This broken up material is then put in the compost pile(s). The following summer, the compost pile(s) contents are run through the shredder again, without screen. By fall, this material has composted well enough for spreading directly on the veggie garden, though I do screen it first. Leaves that are collected are put into the compost pile as they are, and they break down just as fast as shredded leaves in this situation. As for the tree prunings, why bother. I put them out on the curb for chipping by the city. Sure, I have the capability to chip them myself, but if I need wood chips, the city will deliver to me by the truckload, and I can fork them around a lot faster than running the branches through my own chipper one at a time.
The following material in support of my practice was discovered by Frank Teuton, and his excerpts are printed here with permission.

In Humus no. 20, July/August 1988, Edith Smeesters wrote an article entitled Une Mine D'Or:Le bois rameal fragmente, (A Gold Mine: chipped wood branches).

She extolls the virtues of chipped wood branches, especially bois d'ete, or summer wood, which in combination with its leaves can have a C/N ratio as low as 25 to 1.

(Heartwood from the main trunk can be as high as 300-600 to 1, and heartwood also has more of the chemicals wood makes to resist decomposition). We're talking about branchwood of three inches in diameter or less.

A team in Quebec has been studying the use of wood chips since 1978, for the Ministry of Energy and Resources. They even have a patent on some of these uses, although not for economic reasons, it seems.

One point of interest is that wood chip mulch actually raised the pH in studies, contrary to the usual "Wood chips? Omygawd they'll make yer soil too acid" sort of talk you hear in some circles.

A few other results:

Over a five year period in market gardens, increased yields of 50-300% from a single application of two inches of chips plus either hog manure or poultry manure;

Better tasting strawberries; more dry matter in potatoes;

Reduced aphid and nematode populations in strawberries;

Better root development and much more mycorhizal development;

Increase in pH and reduction in weeds.

The group doing this research consisted of:

Justin Brouillette of MMENVIQ, Antonio Gonzalez of the Center for Forest Research of the Laurentides, Edgar Guay of the University of Laval, Christian de Kimpe of Agriculture Canada, Lionel Lachance of the Ministry of Energy and Resources, Gilles Lemieux of the University of Laval and Harold Tremblay of the Ministry of Energy and Resources.

One of several studies cited is E. Guay, L. Lachance, A. Lapointe, G. Lemieux, Dix ans de travaux sur le cyclage biologique du bois rameal, MER, Quebec, 1987 [Ten years of work on the biological cycling of branch wood]

http://tomclothier.hort.net/page24.html
 

China Connection

TB Fanatic
I would say that one ton of good rock dust and a few tons of wood chip would give you similar results to one hundred tons of chip.

Now what would you save on transport costs????

A good mineral analysis could save a lot of money.

The trouble with vegetable crops is that they don't put a lot of carbon into the soil like tree roots do. So grow some nitrogen fixing trees and inter grow vegetable crops.

Say you have a calcium problem in the part of the country you live in. Do you think local tree waste is going to fix the problem? What about trace elements like iodine are they are in your local soils???
 

Mongo

Veteran Member
We are building an off-grid intentional community in the Ozarks. We are aiming for "self-sufficiency" and so want to produce all of our food needs but our "soil" is tough - lots o' rocks. We have been doing the Back to Eden method (cardboard and mulch) for three years and the older sections of the garden are doing GREAT. Here is one video from last week:

It just gets better and better.
Everyone should produce at least SOME food.
 

mecoastie

Veteran Member
I would say that one ton of good rock dust and a few tons of wood chip would give you similar results to one hundred tons of chip.

Now what would you save on transport costs????

A good mineral analysis could save a lot of money.

The trouble with vegetable crops is that they don't put a lot of carbon into the soil like tree roots do. So grow some nitrogen fixing trees and inter grow vegetable crops.

Say you have a calcium problem in the part of the country you live in. Do you think local tree waste is going to fix the problem? What about trace elements like iodine are they are in your local soils???

Is this based on actual experience with the chips or just what you have read? I have found that with the wood chips and manure the only supplement that I add is wood ash. I do also put in what organic waste we don't feed to the chickens. Now on the half that we still run conventionally I do need to supplement with rockdust and one other supplement that I cant remember what it is. That gets manure and compost as well but test show it lacks some minerals. But again that is only my experience with the system. Yours may differ.

If you want an easy to grow source of calcium grow comfrey and use it as a mulch. Also maple leaves are high in calcium. Don't get me wrong rockdust is great for a garden/field that needs it but the BTE systems seems to provide adequate minerals for us.
 

magnetic1

Veteran Member
where would I start looking for wood chips?

I have a new garden patch that was just started last Fall so the weeds are pretty amazing...dandelions and quack grass! I have it tarped now, after the 3rd tilling, but this sure looks like the direction I should take...
 

mecoastie

Veteran Member
where would I start looking for wood chips?

I have a new garden patch that was just started last Fall so the weeds are pretty amazing...dandelions and quack grass! I have it tarped now, after the 3rd tilling, but this sure looks like the direction I should take...

Call local tree service companies that are near you. Some of them look for places to dump chips for free and some will charge. We got several loads when they were clearing around the power lines near the house just by stopping and asking. They were glad to have a place to dump. It is a case of you get what you get. Ideally you want chipped hardwood branches with the leaves on but if they are chipping pine that day you get pine. It will still work though.
 

changed

Preferred pronouns: dude/bro
where would I start looking for wood chips?

I have a new garden patch that was just started last Fall so the weeds are pretty amazing...dandelions and quack grass! I have it tarped now, after the 3rd tilling, but this sure looks like the direction I should take...

According to Paul Gautschi, having a covering of any type on your garden is what is important. You don't want any bare soil. You can use hay. Woodchips are his favorite. I have wood chips, but if you look at my pics carefully you'll see hay also. (old stuff from rabbit cages)
 

rhughe13

Heart of Dixie
You need to start a thread on Hugle Culture. I am going to visit a working one sometime this week close to my home. I have a huge stack of 5 year old logs from tornado cleanup that have started decaying and I'm going to start doing this hopefully by next year. It is my understanding you can get 15 years of cultivation from one pit or pile.

http://www.richsoil.com/hugelkultur/

hugelkultur: the ultimate raised garden beds

It's a german word and some people can say it all german-ish. I'm an american doofus, so I say "hoogle culture". I had to spend some time with google to find the right spelling. Hugal, hoogal, huegal, hugel .... And I really like saying it out loud: "hugelkultur, hoogle culture, hoogal kulture ...." - it could be a chant or something.

I learned this high-falootin word at my permaculture training. I also saw it demonstrated on the Sepp Holzer terraces and raised beds video - he didn't call it hugelkultur, but he was doing it.

Hugelkultur is nothing more than making raised garden beds filled with rotten wood. This makes for raised garden beds loaded with organic material, nutrients, air pockets for the roots of what you plant, etc. As the years pass, the deep soil of your raised garden bed becomes incredibly rich and loaded with soil life. As the wood shrinks, it makes more tiny air pockets - so your hugelkultur becomes sort of self tilling. The first few years, the composting process will slightly warm your soil giving you a slightly longer growing season. The woody matter helps to keep nutrient excess from passing into the ground water - and then refeeding that to your garden plants later. Plus, by holding SO much water, hugelkultur could be part of a system for growing garden crops in the desert with no irrigation.

I do think there are some considerations to keep in mind. For example, I don't think I would use cedar. Cedar lasts so long because it is loaded with natural pesticides/herbicides/anti-fungal/anti-microbial (remember, good soil has lots of fungal and microbial stuff). Not a good mix for tomatoes or melons, eh? Black locust, black cherry, black walnut? These woods have issues. Black locust won't rot - I think because it is so dense. Black walnut is very toxic to most plants, and cherry is toxic to animals, but it might be okay when it rots - but I wouldn't use it until I had done the research. Known excellent woods are: alders, apple, cottonwood, poplar, willow (dry) and birch. I suspect maples would be really good too, but am not certain. Super rotten wood is better than slightly aged wood. The best woods are even better when they have been cut the same day (this allows you to "seed" the wood with your choice of fungus - shitake mushrooms perhaps?).

Another thing to keep in mind is that wood is high in carbon and will consume nitrogen to do the compost thing. This could lock up the nitrogen and take it away from your growies. But well rotted wood doesn't do this so much. If the wood is far enough along, it may have already taken in sooooo much nitrogen, that it is now putting it out!

Pine and fir will have some levels of tanins in them, but I'm guessing that most of that will be gone when the wood has been dead for a few years.

In the drawings at right, the artist is trying to show that while the wood decomposes and shrinks, the leaves, duff and accumulating organic matter from above will take it's place. The artist is showing the new organic matter as a dark green.
 

packyderms_wife

Neither here nor there.
Try some rock dust with it plus some dolomite and natural Phosphate fertilizer and natural potash. Also some blood meal. When meaning the time of year when you add this and that fertilizer is important with many crops.

And now you're starting to sound like the local Ag salesman, next up you'll be telling everyone to plant roundup ready beans. ;)
 

Cyclonemom

Veteran Member
Any of you longtime BTE'rs have an recommendations for the first year? I was planning on putting in mostly winter squash and just enough sweet corn for fresh eating.

I layered it thusly:
Multiple layers of newspaper
Chicken coop straw bedding (2-3 inches, it was mostly straw, and not so much poo, as it was the summer coop cleanout, and they spent most days outside all day)
Rotted 2 year old horse manure (just enough to mostly cover the coop bedding layer, guessing 1-2 inches?)
lawn clippings (probably 4-6 inches)
compost (probably 3 inches)
wood chips (most are ramial) about 6 inches deep

I am guessing I will just plant down in the compost, as the newspaper is still intact.......
 
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