FOOD Moringa Oleifera: The Miracle Tree

[Chair Warmer]

Moringa Oleifera: The Miracle Tree
Tuesday, November 20, 2007 by: Patty Donovan, citizen journalist

(NaturalNews) Imagine a tree in your backyard that will meet all your nutritional needs, take care of you medicinally, and purify your water for you. This tree actually exists. For centuries, the natives of northern India and many parts of Africa have known of the many benefits of Moringa oleifera. Its uses are as unique as the names it is known by, such as clarifier tree, horseradish tree and drumstick tree (referring to the large drumstick shaped pods) and in East Africa it is called "mother's best friend”. Virtually every part of the tree can be used. Native only to the foothills of the Himalayas, it is now widely cultivated in Africa, Central and South America, Sri Lanka, India, Malaysia and the Philippines. This tree, though little known in the Western world, is nutritional dynamite. There are literally hundreds of uses for this tree.

The immature pods are the most valued and widely used of all the tree parts. The pods are extremely nutritious, containing all the essential amino acids along with many vitamins and other nutrients. The immature pod can be eaten raw or prepared like green peas or green beans, while the mature pods are usually fried and possess a peanut-like flavor. The pods also yield 38 - 40% of non-drying, edible oil known as Ben Oil. This oil is clear, sweet and odorless, and never becomes rancid. Overall, its nutritional value most closely resembles olive oil. The thickened root is used as a substitute for horseradish although this is now discouraged as it contains alkaloids, especially moriginine, and a bacteriocide, spirochin, both of which can prove fatal following ingestion. The leaves are eaten as greens, in salads, in vegetable curries, as pickles and for seasoning. They can be pounded up and used for scrubbing utensils and for cleaning walls. Leaves and young branches are relished by livestock. The Bark can be used for tanning and also yields a coarse fiber. The flowers, which must be cooked, are eaten either mixed with other foods or fried in batter and have been shown to be rich in potassium and calcium.

In developing tropical countries, Moringa trees have been used to combat malnutrition, especially among infants and nursing mothers. Three non-governmental organizations in particular - Trees for Life, Church World Service and Educational Concerns for Hunger Organization - advocate Moringa as “natural nutrition for the tropics.” Leaves can be eaten fresh, cooked, or stored as dried powder for many months without refrigeration, and without loss of nutritional value. Moringa is especially promising as a food source in the tropics because the tree is in full leaf at the end of the dry season when other foods are typically scarce. Analyses of the leaf composition have revealed them to have significant quantities of vitamins A, B and C, calcium, iron and protein. According to Optima of Africa, Ltd., a group that has been working with the tree in Tanzania, "25 grams daily of Moringa Leaf Powder will give a child" the following recommended daily allowances:

Protein 42%, Calcium 125%, Magnesium 61%, Potassium 41%, Iron 71%, Vitamin A 272%, and Vitamin C 22%. These numbers are particularly astounding; considering this nutrition is available when other food sources may be scarce.

Scientific research confirms that these humble leaves are a powerhouse of nutritional value. Gram for gram, Moringa leaves contain: SEVEN times the vitamin C in oranges, FOUR times the Calcium in milk, FOUR times the vitamin A in carrots, TWO times the protein in milk and THREE times the Potassium in bananas.

The Moringa tree has great use medicinally both as preventative and treatment. Much of the evidence is anecdotal as there has been little actual scientific research done to support these claims. India's ancient tradition of ayurveda says the leaves of the Moringa tree prevent 300 diseases. One area in which there has been significant scientific research is the reported antibiotic activity of this tree.

This is clearly the area in which the preponderance of evidence - both classical scientific and anecdotal evidence - is overwhelming. The scientific evidence has now been available for over 50 years, although much of it is completely unknown to western scientists. In the late 1940’s and early 1950’s a team from India identified a compound they called pterygospermin. This group was also able to demonstrate its mode of antimicrobial action in the mid 1950’s. Field reports and ecological studies form part of a rich traditional medicine history claiming efficacy of leaf, seed, root, bark, and flowers against a variety of dermal and internal infections. In 1964 other active compounds were isolated and tested in-vitro, and these studies, along with observational studies provide a very plausible mechanism of action for the centuries of claims of efficacy. Unfortunately, because many of the reports of antibiotic efficacy in humans are not supported by placebo controlled, randomized clinical trials, Western medical prejudice leaves the Western world ignorant of Moringa’s antibiotic properties.

Another area of folklore which research supports is in cancer treatment. Moringa species have long been recognized by folk medicine practitioners as having value in the treatment of tumors. Studies examined certain compounds for their cancer preventive potential. Recently two of these compounds were shown to be potent inhibitors of activation of lymphoblastoid (Burkitt’s lymphoma) cells. One of these compounds also inhibited tumors in mice bred to be prone to tumors. In another study, Bharali and colleagues examined skin tumor prevention following ingestion of drumstick (Moringa seedpod) extracts. In this mouse model, which included appropriate positive and negative controls, a dramatic reduction in skin tumors was demonstrated. More rigorous study is required in order to achieve a level of proof required for full medical endorsement of Moringa as, in this case, a cancer preventative plant.

After the oil is extracted from the pods, the seed-cake remaining contains the active components for removing turbidity (solid particles) from water. Because bacteria adhere to the solids, this seed-cake also effectively removes bacteria. At the Thyolo Water Treatment Works in Malawi, Africa, two researchers from the University of Leicester, England, have worked on substituting moringa seeds for alum to remove solids in water for drinking. Not only were the tests successful in removing as much solid material as alum, but the seeds used were "purchased from enthusiastic villagers in Nsanje Region in Malawi" (Folkard and Sutherland, 1996. Not only is Moringa oleifera as effective as aluminum sulphate (alum) in removing suspended solids from turbid water, it has a major advantage. Because it can be produced locally, "using Moringa rather than alum would save foreign exchange and generate farm and employment income." The potential for Moringa to create a new market for a community is there, and studies and projects are taking place examining this potential. Use of this natural substance would also remove a source of aluminum contamination.

This tree is truly a “miracle” tree offering hope; nutritionally, medicinally and economically to devastatingly poor 3rd world countries. It has just recently begun being used as a supplement in a juice form and in powdered leaf tablets.


http://www.naturalnews.com/022272.html

 

[Chair Warmer]

Moringa its a common tree that thrives in both the desert and the living room and produces leaves, pods, seeds and flowers that each do uncommon things

Moringa oleifera has a huge potential as diet aid and water purifier. Doctors use the Moringa tree to treat diabetes and high blood pressure. Moringa can rebuild weak bones, enrich anemic blood and enable a malnourished mother to nurse her starving baby. Moringa can staunch a skin infection. Moringa makes an efficient fuel, fertilizer, livestock feed... Moringa can!

Moringa sounds like magic!
Moringa is a fast growing tree wish grows best in arid conditions and is drought tolerant. Already in its first year Moringa can reach a height of 3 meters. The Moringa tree produces leaves during the dry season and during times of drought. Moringa is a life giving source of green vegetable when little other food is available. The ownership of one Moringa tree can make an enormous difference to a family’s livelihood.

http://www.miracletrees.org/
fig. Moringa fresh leaves

 

[Chair Warmer]

Moringa Tree

Moringa tree is the sole genus in the flowering plant family Moringaceae. This genus comprises 13 species, all of which are trees that grow in tropical and sub-tropical climates. Moringa tree grows quickly in many types of environments, and much of the plant is edible, including by livestock. Moringa tree produces cream coloured flowers when it is 8 months old and the flowering season begins in January and continues through to March. The fruit ripens from April to June and the pods are triangular in cross section, 30 to 50cm long and contain oily, black, winged seeds. The indigenous knowledge and use of Moringa Oleifera is referenced in more than 80 countries and known in over 200 local languages. Moringa has been used by various societies (Roman, Greek, Egyptian, and Indian to mention a few) for thousands of years with writings dating as far back as 150 AD.

We can eat the leaves, especially young shoots, young pods, flowers, roots, and in some species even the bark. It is considered one of the world’s most useful trees, as almost every part of the Moringa tree can be used for food or has some other beneficial property. The leaves contain all essential amino acids and are rich in protein, Vitamin A, Vitamin B, Vitamin C, and minerals. Moringa trees grow easily from seeds or cuttings. In the tropics, it is used as forage for livestock, and in many countries, Moringa is used as a micronutrient powder to treat diseases. In the Philippines, the plant is propagated by planting limb cuttings 1–2 m long, from June to August, preferably. The plant starts bearing pods 6–8 months after planting, but regular bearing commences after the second year. The Moringa tree bears for several years. It does not tolerate freeze or frost. It can also be propagated by seed. As with all plants, optimum cultivation depends on producing the right environment for the plant to thrive. Moringa is a sun- and heat-loving plant. Seeds are planted an inch below the surface and can be germinated year-round in well-draining soil.

Moringa, with 90+ nutrients, is the best source to nourish the body with the essential nutrients. Moringa act as Anti-inflammatory Anti-cancer, Diuretic, Anti-bacterial, Antihelmintic, Reduce fever, Reduce headache, Laxative, Anti-anemic, Increase milk production, Anti-diarrheic, Anti-diabetic, Antihypertensive, Hepatoprotector (liver), Relaxant sedative, Induce parasite elimination (kills parasites and their eggs). Moringa contains the 9 essential amino acids that you must get from food! Many people taking the pure powdered capsules have reported rapid improvements in skin, digestion, eyesight, mental clarity, and overall well-being, plus a reduction in symptoms associated with fatigue, arthritic-like conditions, and aging.

Moringa Oleifera is currently being promoted as a means to combat poverty and malnutrition. It grows quickly in many types of environments, and much of the plant is edible, including by livestock. The leaves contain all essential amino acids and are rich in protein, Vitamin A, Vitamin B, Vitamin C, and minerals. Feeding the high protein leaves to cattle has been shown to increase weight gain in cattle by up to 32% and milk production by 43 to 65%. According to Dr. K. Shaine Tyson of Rocky Mountain Bio diesel consulting, the defatted meal contains 60% protein, 40% more than soybean meal. The defatted meal can also be used to purify water, settling out sediments and undesirable organisms.

A traditional food plant in Africa, this little-known vegetable has potential to improve nutrition, boost food security, foster rural development, and support sustainable land care. The immature green pods called “drumsticks” are probably the most valued and widely used part of the tree. They are commonly consumed. The seeds are sometimes removed from more mature pods and eaten like peas or roasted like nuts. The Moringa seeds yield 38–40% edible oil (called ben oil from the high concentration of behenic acid contained in the oil). The refined oil is clear, odorless, and resists rancidity at least as well as any other botanical oil. The seed cake remaining after oil extraction may be used as a fertilizer or as a flocculent to purify water.

A large number of reports on the nutritional qualities of Moringa now exist in both the scientific and the popular literature. It is commonly said that Moringa leaves contain more Vitamin A than carrots, more calcium than milk, more iron than spinach, more Vitamin C than oranges, and more potassium than bananas,” and that the protein quality of Moringa leaves rivals that of milk and eggs. Doctors use the Moringa to treat diabetes and high blood pressure. Moringa can rebuild weak bones, enrich anemic blood and enable a malnourished mother to nurse her starving baby. Not only can Moringa staunch a skin infection, Moringa tree makes an efficient fuel, fertilizer and livestock feed. Surprisingly, the leaves contain complete proteins, which is rare for a plant. And in many developing countries, Moringa is used as a micro nutrient powder to aid indigenous diseases.

Moringa leaves and pods are helpful in increasing breast milk in the breastfeeding months. One tablespoon of leaf powder provides 14% of the protein, 40% of the calcium, 23% of the iron and most of the vitamin A needs of a child aged one to three. Six tablespoons of leaf powder will provide nearly all of the woman’s daily iron and calcium needs during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Some of the beneficial properties of the Moringa Oleifera leaf include:

1.Detoxifies the body in the same way that it detoxifies and purifies drinking water.
2.Provides a long lasting, sustainable energy without hyperactivity, that ‘jittery’ sensation that comes from too much caffeine and without the highs and lows from sugar.
3.Its high nutrition content strengthens the body’s immune system.
4.Reduces inflammation, so it can give relief to those with arthritis, ulcers and other infections.
5.Its ability to lower blood sugar levels aids in the treatment of diabetes.

http://www.moringa-tree.net/


For additional information Moringa Oleifera see Wikipedia article; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moringa_oleifera

 

[CelticRose]

Like to have access to try growing them around here. Sounds like they'd be an incredible asset to have!!

 

[China Connection]

Drumstick Tree
Food Forests, Food Plants - Perennial, Medicinal Plants, Seeds, Trees — by Isabell Shipard April 11, 2009

http://permaculture.org.au/2009/04/11/drumstick-tree/

by Isabell Shipard. For more plant info, check out Isabell’s excellent books in our book section.

Photo credit: Melanie Brown

Also known as Horseradish Tree, Marango Tree, Murunga, Kelor, Shobhanjan, Ben Tree and Moringa Tree. Moringa oleifera syn. M. pterygosperma F. Moringaceae

Description:

A handsome, multi-purpose, small legume tree, 3-8 metres tall, fast growing and drought hardy, with a shady, leaf canopy of very attractive tripinnate ferny foliage, making its presence appealing wherever it is planted. Small, waxy, creamy-white flowers, resembling miniature orchids, form in clusters on terminal stems, followed by 20-30cm long round pods. Pods look very much like drumsticks, a good reason for the plant’s common name. The shell of the pod splits into 3 sections revealing a row of neatly packed, wing-edged, round, brown seeds.

Propagation is by seed. Seed must be relatively fresh to give a good germination. Warm temperatures are important for germination. Keep planted seeds well out of reach of mice and wood lizards, as the seed is nutty and considered a tasty morsel by these little scavengers. Stem cuttings, 10-60cm long, can also be struck in spring and summer.

Plant young trees in well-drained soil in a sunny, frost-free position. Trees are grown extensively in tropical, sub-tropical and warm temperature areas, including Africa, India, South East Asia and tropical islands. Young trees can be trimmed, and pruned regularly to keep to bush height of 1-3 meters, and this can be practical in a garden limited in space. Often the trees are planted closely to serve as living fences or used as living stakes for climbing vegetables. Trees grown in temperate climates (particularly when small), need to be protected from strong winds and frost. Once trees have had 1-2 winters in cold climates, they do adapt, but may still go dormant in winter. Recently I had a phone call from a man in South Australia who said he has grown the trees in Adelaide for many years.

Constituents: deic, palmitic and stearic acid, saponins, glycoside, gum, protein
Vitamins: A (8855 IU per 100g), B1, B2, B3, C
Minerals: calcium, iron, phosphorus, magnesium
Actions: tonic, digestive, vermifuge, diuretic, aphrodisiac, anti-inflammatory

Medicinal uses:

A folk remedy for stomach complaints, catarrh, hay fever, impotence, edema, cramps, hemorrhoids, headaches, sore gums; to strengthen the eyes and the brain, liver, gall, digestive, respiratory and immune system, as a blood cleanser and blood builder, and for cancer treatment. A traditional folk remedy was to use the leaves as a poultice on the abdomen to expel intestinal worms. Oil from the seed, called Oil of Ben, is used for earache and in ointments for skin conditions. The oil rubbed on the skin is said to prevent mosquitoes from biting. Flowers infused in honey are used as a cough remedy.

Culinary uses:

Research has shown the drumstick tree to be of exceptional nutritional value. The leaves are 38% protein with all essential amino acids, which will be of interest to vegetarians, or people who wish to cut back on meat and dairy products, or regions where protein is lacking. On a recent ‘Good Medicine’ TV program filmed in Africa, drumstick trees were grown in close rows, regularly cut when growth was 1 metre high, and the leaves dried and crushed. Two tablespoons of the high protein powder was given in the daily diet, to help overcome malnutrition.

Amino acids in green leaf vegetables vary considerably, and many that are staples are low in the sulphur-bearing amino acids methionine and cystine, whereas in the drumstick tree it is an extremely rich source in comparison to other greens and vegetables. The drumstick tree is listed as having the highest protein ratio of any plant on earth. The calcium content is very high at 297mg per 100g of leaves.

Leaves can be eaten fresh in hand, steamed, pickled, added to salads, stir-fries, curries, and soups. Leaves can be dried, and stored, for using in cooked dishes as required. Flavour of the pods are similar to peas with a mild mustard taste. Sliced, young green pods can be used in savory and meat dishes. Seeds can be fried or roasted and taste like peanuts. When seeds are abundant they can be sprouted like wheat grass, eaten as tender nutritious greens.

Roots of young seedlings taste similar to the herb horseradish, and are often grated and used as a substitute. Oil of Ben, a by-product of the seed, is an inodorous fine-grade oil used in salads, cooking, perfumery, lubricating watches and fine machinery. The oil does not go rancid. Flowers can be eaten or used as a garnish, and look most decorative in salads. Value the tree for its high nutritional value and as a survival food.

Other uses:

Seeds crushed to a powder are used to clarify turbid, dirty water. The cleansing takes place by a process of electrical charges established between the muddy particles suspended in the water and the pulverised seeds, and gradually, after about an hour, the muddy particles are pulled to the bottom of the water by the force of gravity. Research shows that the seed not only settles the mud, but can carry with it over 90% of bacteria and viruses. A report published in New Scientist, December 1983, said that the seeds have been used in Sudan and Peru to purify muddy river water. It was also reported that seeds have antimicrobial activity. The seeds also have potential for treating sewerage water.

 

[China Connection]

TREE LUCERNE/TAGASASTE GROWING INFORMATION
© Frances Michaels



http://www.greenharvest.com.au/seeds/info_sheet/tagasaste.html

Common Name: Tree Lucerne syn. Tagasaste syn. Canary Island Tree Lucerne
Botanical Name: Chamaecytisus palmensis syn. proliferus
Origin: Canary Island
Family: Fabaceae
Plant Description: A small shrubby tree to a height and crown diameter of about 5m. Branches often are long leafy and drooping, flowers are white, fragrant and abundant. There are no thorns.
Ecology: This plant is native to the extremely arid volcanic slopes of the Canary Is. It prefers sandy soils, but thrives on gravels, loams, limestone and laterites. Its rainfall range is 350 to 1600mm annually. Soils must be free-draining to avoid infection with root-rot fungus. A pH of 5 to 7 is tolerated. It can survive cold winters down to -9°C.

Uses:
• Animal fodder; the crude protein content of leaves is 20-24%, which compares favourably with high quality temperate pasture, all grazing animals, pigs and poultry readily consume the leaves, and there are no reports of toxic compounds.
• Bee forage; one of the first trees to flower in spring and it is an excellent nectar source.
• Timber and fuelwood; it produces a fairly dense wood, useful for woodturning, and has excellent potential as a firewood crop as it coppices readily.
• Windbreaks; when mature as a close-planted 25-50 cm hedge it provides shelter from cold winds and summer heat. It can be used to underplant pine windbreaks that have developed gaps with age.
• Alley Cropping; it has potential as an intercrop in temperate orchards and as a nurse crop for frost sensitive trees.
CULTURAL REQUIREMENTS

Recommended Planting Time: Spring, or during the wet season, soil temperature should be at least 20ºC for germination, a higher soil temperature will give a more even germination.
Planting Depth: It can be direct-seeded, or planted into forestry tubes and later transplanted. Sow the seed 2.5 cm deep.
Details: Soaking seeds overnight will improve germination. Protect young plants from all grazing animals.

Inoculant: A group of bacteria called Rhizobium live in a symbiotic relationship with many legumes. This is a big advantage to the plant, as it is able, once inoculated, to produce its own nitrogen, from the soil air. The bacteria are stored in peat, and as this is a living culture, it must be treated with care. It should be stored in the fridge and used within 3 months. Do not separate from the seed packet as the inoculant attached is specific to the individual legume. To use, moisten the seed with a small amount of milk or water and stir in the inoculant until seeds are coated. Do not inoculate the seed until you are ready to sow it and do not leave the inoculated seed in the sun.
………………………………………………………………………………………

Transplanting:

http://www.kari.org/fileadmin/publications/brochuresII/Tree_Lucerne_livestock_feeding.pdf



• Transplant in moist soft soil when seedlings attain 45
cm height.
• Plant in rows 5 m apart and 2.5 m between plants
to give a density of about 700 trees per hectare.
• Apply 200 kg/ha/year of super phosphate to maintain
high yields.
Management
Trees should be protected from browsing and bark
stripping by livestock for at least 2-3 years. Once well established
browsing can be done year round.
Prune at the end of the fihttp://www.kari.org/fileadmin/publications/brochuresII/Tree_Lucerne_livestock_feeding.pdf rst year to promote a bushy,
multi-stemmed habit. Maintain the plants at one meter if
grazed by sheep/goats, and cattle.
Tree lucerne responds well to frequent cutting, although
re-growth is slow for the first week after harvest.
Harvesting in the dry season leads to stunting, low
biomass yields and increased plant mortality. Trees can
persist for up to 30 years if well managed.
Note: Tree lucerne has the potential to become a major
weed problem in natural vegetation especially in high rainfall
areas
Pests
Tree Lucerne is susceptible to the lucerne moth (Uresiphita
ornithopteralis), slugs, cutworms and grasshoppers
which eat emerging seedlings. Rabbits also like it.
Diseases
The major diseases are root rot caused by the fungus
phytophthora and damping off caused by the fungus
Fusarium.
Rainfall
350-1,600 mm per annum with 600 mm as optimum
but can survive in areas with as low as 200 mm due to
its deep rooting habit.
Soils
• It prefers light well-drained sandy soils on slopes and
hillsides, but also on gravels, loams, limestone and
laterites.
• It is very sensitive to water logging.
• Adapted to a wide range of soil pH and prefers
acidic soils of pH 4.0 but can also survive on sandy,
alkaline soils of pH 8.5.
Establishment
Seeds are hard and require soaking in hot water for 48
hours prior to planting. For improved performance seeds
should be treated with rhizobium.
Seed bed
Should be well prepared to a fine, firm tilth and weeds
should be controlled for successful establishment.
Direct seeding:
• Sow seeds directly at depths of 1-2.5 cm but
deeper in sandy soils in dry areas to ensure sufficient
moisture for germination.
Nursery seeding
• Seeds can be raised in nursery beds but excessive
watering should be avoided to prevent damping off
disease of seedlings.
Introduction:
Tree Lucerne (Chamaecyisus palmensis) is a new high
quality and palatable fodder shrub whose other uses
include ornamental, wind and water erosion control,
land rehabilitation and fuel wood among others.
Description
It is a perennial medium sized evergreen tree with long
drooping branches, soft hairy leaves that are bluish green
in color.
The flowers are scented, creamy-white and seed pods
are black and flattened and each contains ten flattened
oval-shaped brown-black seeds.
Altitude and Soil
Altitude
Grows between 1,000 to 2,000 m and at times close
to 3,000 m above sea level. Mature trees can withstand
frost but not small seedlings.

……………………………………………………………………
http://www.ibiblio.org/london/permaculture/mailarchives/permaculture-links/msg00066.html
The shrub is being exploited in dryland Australia for high- protein fodder. Even when grown on poor coastal sands tagasaste (correctly fertilised) can produce high yields of edible dry matter containing 23% to 27% crude protein and only 18% to 24% indigestible crude fibre.
This compares with about 18% crude protein from lucerne hay (alfalfa) which has an indigestible crude fibre content of 24% to 29%.
Australian farmers now growing tagasaste are reporting these additional benefits:
o Shade and shelter for livestock during climate stress.
o Wind and water erosion control.
o Increased soil fertility through nitrogen fixation.
o Reductions in water tables causing salinity problems.
o Habitat for native birds that eat pasture and crop pests.
o Green firebreaks around homesteads and along boundary fences.
o Winter nectar for bees.
o Reduced internal parasite problems as shrub fodder is browsed above pasture that harbours dung-borne worm eggs.

 

[China Connection]

 

[China Connection]

Eat it Neat!
by Carolyn Jinks
Benleigh Alpaca Stud
Geelong, Vic.

http://www.grandeverge.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44&products_id=212

Many visitors to Benleigh Alpaca Stud comment on the surrounds of the ‘maternity paddock’. The great interest as well as the animals ~ THE TAGASASTE HEDGE! (pronounced “tagga-sass-tee”).

At Benleigh Alpaca Stud, Allan Jinks commenced the layout plan 10 years ago, when he planted Tagasaste, more commonly known as Tree Lucerne around the perimeter of a paddock.

Two barriers of chicken wire, 60 cm apart and 1 metre high protected the young plants, with the intention of allowing the alpacas to eat the tops as they grew, thus making them more bushy. Ultimately more chicken wire was placed over the top, and the bushes grew to fill the wired cavity.

The result has developed into an alpaca-manicured “box” hedge.
Diet supplement,perfect protector from wind and sun, as well as a great double-fenced divider, which also offers a safety zone for anyone with fear of neighbouring roaming dogs.

What a bonus! During the recent excessively dry summer throughout Victoria, the “hedge” has been a blessing, giving green pick at all times.

Cria as young as 10 days are often seen nibbling beside their mothers on the leaves or just resting in it’s shelter.
The whole concept works easily and has definitely been a worthwhile exercise many breeders may wish to add to their management scheme in the coming season.

Dr Laurie Snook, an agricultural researcher has written a book on Tagasaste, with much data regarding the nutritional benefits for both livestock and in aquaculture.

The Tagasaste, (botanical name Chamaecytisus palmenis) is an evergreen leguminous tree-shrub which produces masses of white flowers in early spring. Originating in the Canary Islands, and introduced to Australia in1879, it has been planted in Australian gardens as an ornamental, on farms as a wind break and has been utilised as food value by pastoralists for many years. It is a habitat for native birds and provides winter nectar for bees.

Apart from the obvious benefits for alpacas, in other areas of our farm the Tagasaste has long been used to form edible windbreaks for stock, but the ‘hedge’ created with the help of the alpacas is different from mainstream farming.

Since the original ‘pilot scheme’, progressive plantings border many of our paddocks.

Stud males can be separated by this nutritious barrier, weanlings are secure, and all enjoy the flavour as they neatly prune leaves as they protrude through the wire.

Tagasaste grows easily in many soil types and climates, can be germinated from seed or started as seedlings. It has been recorded that livestock producers in WA are expected to plant more than 30,000 hectares of tagasaste during the coming year and that Eastern states are following this revolution as an aid in improving landcare.

Growth is rapid, and Autumn plantings will mean that 18 months later, an effective hedge will be forming,

It is seen to have multiple benefits for most livestock, and from personal experience, we consider it excellent ~ aesthetically attractive, nutritional as well as functional, and the alpacas clearly approve as they “Eat it Neat”.

 

[China Connection]

Joshua and an Alpaca friend stand in front of a very neatly eaten 'Tagasaste' hedge at Benleigh Alpaca Stud on the Bellarine Peninsula near Geelong. Photo by Carolyn Jinks.

 

[China Connection]

Tagasaste

 

[China Connection]

Both these trees need plenty of minerals and unless they get them they are short lived. Anything that produces a lot needs lots of food regardless on what some say.

Of course the leaves can be eaten raw or cooked. Great food for fly maggots also but the mix will stink. With wheat bran there is little smell but anything high in nitrogen will smell bad.

.......................................................................................


High-protein poultry feed from thin air

http://journeytoforever.org/farm_poultry.html

Lots of flies around? Collect some kitchen slops -- cooking water and juices and leftovers from meat and fish dishes, some milk: anything that will go really putrid if you leave it for awhile. Then leave it for awhile. When it stinks really badly, gather some compost materials, say 4-5 cubic feet, spread it out in the sun, and sprinkle it with the putrid kitchen liquids. Don't get it too wet -- slightly more wet than compost should be.

In no time it'll be buzzing with flies. Leave it until you're quite sure lots of flies have had ample opportunity to lay their fill of eggs. Then scoop it all up, put it in a double garbage bag (one inside the other), put the bag in a suitably sized cardboard box, and close the bag lightly. It will soon stop smelling. Check it every day.

After a week or so, you'll open it to find the surface flat, finely divided, and writhing slightly, or even considerably, with maggots, lots and lots of maggots. Now's the time, don't leave them to turn into flies. Two options:

Option 1
Sift it with a circular gardener's sieve with a 3/16" mesh (stainless steel mesh is best). This will leave you with a pile of nice black compost and a sieve full of maggots -- first-class poultry feed. Your chickens, ducks, guinea fowl will think it's Christmas. The geese, who're strict vegetarians, will be appalled and disgusted by the whole thing, but never mind. Add the siftings to the compost bin or the worm bin. Maggots, by the way, assist rather than hinder the composting process. And, disgusting as they may look, fly maggots do not spread disease.

Option 2
Let the birds do the sifting for you -- but don't throw it onto their bedding or the mulch in their run because they'll miss a few maggots, leaving them to hatch into flies. On bare ground, they'll definitely get them all.

You've just wiped out a generation of flies.

Instead of using liquids, you can let a couple of litres of kitchen scraps get thoroughly putrid in a bucket with a lid on it and use that instead.

 

[China Connection]

Growing Moringa

Growing Moringa for Personal or Commercial Use

http://www.moringafarms.com/growing_it.htm


Moringa is an ideal plant to grow indoors or in your own backyard. In fact, in the Philippines that is exactly what they do. You can pick its leaves and make it part of a delicious fresh salad, use it in one our many moringa recipes, (It goes especially well with chicken). Or you can dry the leaves to make a delicious green tea. You can also make tea with the leaf powder in a traditional coffee maker. If you have enough leaf, you can dry it and make it into moringa powder, like we do, and use it ‘s concentrated nutrition to balance your diet for increased energy and sense of well being. The possibilities are endless.



For those of you that live in the United States, particularly the southern and western states, you are in luck and can grow Moringa outside. Moringa doesn’t like the cold and loses it leaves in the winter. For those of you that have a true winter, where it freezes and snows, we recommend that you plant Moringa in pots, keeping them outside in the spring and summer and bring them inside when it gets cold. A greenhouse is ideal in most areas. The plant will die if it freezes completely but it can withstand a mild frost nonetheless. Moringa loses its leaves when the average temperature drops below 70 degrees.



The 12 Species of Moringa are among the heartiest in the Fauna kingdom. The most common species is Moringa Oleifera. Most research done in the areas of nutrition, water purification. live stock feed, vegetable dyes, herbal medicine and oil production are based on the Oleifera species. It is also the most plentiful. So, when we refer to Moringa we are referring to Moringa Oleifera.



Moringa grows in a variety of climates and substandard soils and it is as fast growing as it is hearty. Normal growth ranges from 3-5 meters per year if left uncropped. It is one of the fastest growing biomasses on the planet when properly nourished. The seed stock from Moringa Farms has varieties known to grow 7 meters in one year if left unchecked. A fully mature Moringa tree can grow to 35 feet.

Commercial Moringa plantations usually crop the trees so they don’t exceed 3-4 meters. Such a height allows the harvesters reasonable access and the cropping encourages horizontal growth enabling greater leaf production.


Germinating Seeds for Personal Use



There are several methods of germinating seeds. Some methods may work better depending on the microclimate. We are sure that there are lots of you that have your own methods of germinating seeds so we will just tell you what we have done and what has worked for us and what has worked for growers around the world.



Moringa seeds have wings and are about the size of a large pea. Seeds don’t need sunlight in order to germinate. Here are some suggestions on germination.



1. Soak the seeds for 24 hours; the seed will imbibe the water it needs to germinate from this procedure. Remove the seeds from the solution.
2. Put the seeds in a plastic sandwich bag and store in a warm, dark place like a drawer or cabinet. Germination times range from 3-14 days. Do not add extra water to the bag.
3. Check them every two days. Once the seeds have broken loose from the winged shell, you will notice two shoots protruding from the seed.

Moringa Seeds

4. Do not let the shoots get too long and thin as they may get fragile and break when handled. One of the shoots will have some ruffled growth at the extremity; this is the shoot that contains the first leaves (cotyledons) and should be the shoot exposed to the sun. Plant the seeds about ¾ inch beneath the soil surface with the ruffled extremity to the sun. Plant the sprouted seed(s) in a commercial band or a peat pot using a high quality potting soil. Sandy loamy soils will work well also. Use a pot that is at least 18 inches deep if this is the final home for the tree. Moringa loves the sun so make sure they get plenty. Although the tree is drought tolerant, they may be watered daily, just don’t allow the roots to get soaked for extended periods of time. If you live in a particularly hot zone, don’t expose the baby plants to all day sun. Keep and eye on them, they will tell you if they are getting distressed from too much sun, water or lack of food.
5. It is a good idea to use pots to get the trees started since you have more control over the care of the tree. Critters will eat the moringa babies if they can. We recommend that you let the potted plants grow at least 8 weeks or longer before transplanting to the ground. When transplanting try not to disturb the root system at all. Like many plants the roots are very vulnerable until they are established in the ground.
6. If using a plastic pot, before transplanting to the ground, use a long thin blade to loosen the soil from the inside edges of the pot. Turn the band or pot upside down to allow the entire plant and soil to slide out of the container. This prevents disturbing the roots. Have a hole already dug and gently place in the hole. If you are planting more than one tree, space the plants 7-10 feet apart for optimum access to the mature tree. The tree will branch out 3-4 feet from the trunk so this spacing will allow you to walk between trees and let the sunlight to do its job. Of course if you want a wind break, just plant them all at 1 foot intervals, like they do in Africa and India. Moringa is like any plant that appreciates plant food and fertilizers and ample supply of water

7. Don’t forget, you can always just put the seeds in the ground or a large pot and water. We have found that Moringa is sensitive to the volume of soil in which it begins its life cycle.


Commercial Germination and Planting



If you plan on growing dozens or hundreds of trees then read the following article a world authority on Moringa, Lowell Fuglie. Mr. Fuglie is an expert and reliable source of information on the subject of growing Moringa commercially. Mr. Fuglie is executive director of the Church World Service hunger relief project in Senegal, Africa, and cultivates thousands of Moringa trees in that region.









CULTIVATION OF MORINGA


Lowell J. Fuglie and K. V. Sreeja





Moringa oleifera is believed to be native to sub-Himalayan tracts of northern India but is now found worldwide in the tropics and sub-tropics. It grows best in direct sunlight under 500 meters altitude. It tolerates a wide range of soil conditions, but prefers a neutral to slightly acidic (pH. 6.3-7.0), well-drained sandy or loamy soil. Minimum annual rainfall requirements are estimated at 250mm with maximum at over 3,000mm, but in waterlogged soil the roots have a tendency to rot. (In areas with heavy rainfall, trees can be planted on small hills to encourage water run-off). Presence of a long taproot makes it resistant to periods of drought. Trees can be easily grown from seed or from cuttings. Temperature ranges are 25-35 degrees Celsius (0-95 degrees Fahrenheit), but the tree will tolerate up to 48 degrees in the shade and it can survive a light frost. Moringa seeds have no dormancy period, so they can be planted as soon as they are mature and they will retain the ability to germinate for up to one year. Moringa trees will flower and fruit annually and in some regions twice annually. During its first year, a Moringa tree will grow up to five meters in height and produce flowers and fruit. Left alone, the tree can eventually reach 12 meters in height with a trunk 30cm wide; however, the tree can be annually cut back to one meter from the ground. The tree will quickly recover and produce leaves and pods within easy reach. Within three years a tree will yield 400-600 pods annually and a mature tree can produce up to 1,600 pods.





IN THE NURSERY:

Use poly bags with dimensions of about 18cm in height and 12cm in diameter. The soil mixture for the sacks should be light, i.e. 3 parts soil to 1 part sand. Plant two or three seeds in each sack, one to two centimeters deep. Keep moist but not too wet. Germination will occur within 5 to 12 days, depending on the age of the seed and pre-treatment method used. Remove extra seedlings, leaving one in each sack. Seedlings can be out-planted when they are 60-90cm high. When out-planting, cut a hole in the bottom of the sack big enough to allow the roots to emerge. Be sure to retain the soil around the roots of the seedling.



To encourage rapid germination, one of three pre-seeding treatments can be employed:

1. Soak the seeds in water overnight before planting.

2. Crack the shells before planting.

3. Remove shells and plant kernels only.





IN THE FIELD:

If planting a large plot it is recommended to first plough the land. Prior to planting a seed or seedling, dig a planting pit about 50cm in depth and the same in width. This planting hole serves to loosen the soil and helps to retain moisten in the root zone, enabling the seedlings’ roots to develop rapidly. Compost or manure at the rate of 5kg per pit can be mixed with the fresh topsoil around the pit and used to fill the pit. Avoid using the soil taken out of the pit for this purpose: fresh topsoil contains beneficial microbes that can promote more effective root growth. The day before out planting, water the filled pits or wait until a good rain before out-planting seedlings. Fill in the hole before transplanting the seedling. In areas of heavy rainfall, the soil can be shaped in the form of a mound to encourage drainage. Do not water heavily for the first few days. If the seedlings fall over, tie them to stick 40cm high for support.





DIRECT SEEDING:

If water is available for irrigation (i.e., in a backyard garden), trees can be seeded directly and grown anytime during the year. Prepare a planting pit first, water, and then fill in the pit with topsoil mixed with compost or manure before planting seeds. In a large field, trees can be seeded directly at the beginning of the wet season.





GROWING FROM CUTTINGS:

Use hard wood, not green wood, for cuttings. Cuttings should be 45cm to 1.5m long and 10cm thick. Cuttings can be planted directly or planted in sacks in the nursery. When planting directly, plant the cuttings in light, sandy soil. Plant one-third of the length in the ground (i.e., if the cutting is 1.5m long, plant it 50cm deep). Do not over water; if the soil is too heavy or wet, the roots may rot. When the cuttings are planted in the nursery, the root system is slow to develop. Add phosphorus to the soil if possible to encourage root development. Cuttings planted in a nursery can be out-planted after 2 or 3 months.





SPACING:

For intensive Moringa production, plant the tree every 3 meters in rows 3 meters apart. To ensure sufficient sunlight and airflow, it is also recommended to plant the trees in an east-west direction. When the trees are part of an alley-cropping system, there should be 10 meters between the rows. The area between trees should be kept free of weeds.



Trees are often spaced in a line one meter or less apart in order to create living fence posts. Trees are also planted to provide support for climbing crops such as pole beans, although only mature trees should be used for this purpose since the vine growth can choke off the young tree. Moringa trees can be planted in gardens; the tree’s root system does not compete with other crops for surface nutrients and the light shade provided by the tree will be beneficial to those vegetables which are less tolerant to direct sunlight. From the second year onwards, Moringa can be inter-cropped with maize, sunflower and other field crops. Sunflower is particularly recommended for helping to control weed growth.[1] However, Moringa trees are reported to be highly competitive with eggplant (Solanum melongena) and sweet corn (Zea mays) and can reduce their yields by up to 50%.[2]





PINCHING THE TERMINAL TIPS:

When the seedlings reach a height of 60cm in the main field, pinch (trim) the terminal growing tip 10cm from the top. This can be done using fingers since the terminal growth is tender, devoid of bark fiber and brittle, and therefore easily broken. A shears or knife blade can also be used. Secondary branches will begin appearing on the main stem below the cut about a week later. When they reach a length of 20cm, cut these back to 10cm. Use a sharp blade and make a slanting cut. Tertiary branches will appear, and these are also to be pinched in the same manner. This pinching, done four times before the flowers appear (when the tree is about three months old), will encourage the tree to become bushy and produce many pods within easy reach. Pinching helps the tree develop a strong production frame for maximizing the yield. If the pinching is not done, the tree has a tendency to shoot up vertically and grow tall, like a mast, with sparse flowers and few fruits found only at the very top.



For annual Moringa types, directly following the end of the harvest, cut the tree’s main trunk to about 90cm from ground level. About two weeks later 15 to 20 sprouts will appear below the cut. Allow only 4-5 robust branches to grow and nib the remaining sprouts while they are young, before they grow long and harden. Continue the same pinching process as done with new seedlings so as to make the tree bushy. After the second crop, the trees can be removed and new seedlings planted for maximum productivity.



For perennial Moringa types, remove only the dead and worn out branches every year. Once in four or five years, cut the tree back to one meter from ground level and allow re-growth.





WATERING

Moringa trees do not need much watering. In very dry conditions, water regularly for the first two months and afterwards only when the tree is obviously suffering. Moringa trees will flower and produce pods whenever there is sufficient water available. If rainfall is continuous throughout the year, Moringa trees will have a nearly continuous yield. In arid conditions, flowering can be induced through irrigation.




FERTILIZING

Moringa trees will generally grow well without adding very much fertilizer. Manure or compost can be mixed with the soil used to fill the planting pits. Phosphorus can be added to encourage root development and nitrogen will encourage leaf canopy growth. In some parts of India, 15cm-deep ring trenches are dug about 10cm from the trees during the rainy season and filled with green leaves, manure and ash. These trenches are then covered with soil. This approach is said to promote higher pod yields. Research done in India has also showed that applications of 7.5kg farmyard manure and 0.37kg ammonium sulfate per tree can increase pod yields threefold.[3]





PESTS AND DISEASES

Moringa is resistant to most pests. In very water-logged conditions, Diplodia root rot can occur. In very wet conditions, seedlings can be planted in mounds so that excess water is drained off. Cattle, sheep, pigs and goats will eat Moringa seedlings, pods and leaves. Protect Moringa seedlings from livestock by installing a fence or by planting a living fence around the plantation. A living fence can be grown with Jatropha curcas, whose seeds also produce an oil good for soap-making. For mature trees, the lower branches can be cut off so that goats will not be able to reach the leaves and pods. Termites can be a problem, especially when cuttings are planted.



Among approaches recommended to protect seedlings from termite attack:[4]



· Apply mulches of castor oil plant leaves, mahogany chips, tephrosia leaves or Persian lilac leaves around the base of the plants.

· Heap ashes around the base of seedlings.

· Dry and crush stems and leaves of lion's ear or Mexican poppy and spread the dust around the base of plants.



In India, various caterpillars are reported to cause defoliation unless controlled by spraying. The budworm Noordia moringae and the scale insects Diaspidotus sp. and Ceroplastodes cajani are reportedly able to cause serious damage. Also mentioned as pests in India are Aphis craccibora, the borer Diaxenopsis apomecynoides and the fruit fly Gitonia sp.[5] Elsewhere in the world, where Moringa is an introduced tree, local pests are less numerous.




HARVESTING

When harvesting pods for human consumption, harvest when the pods are still young (about 1cm in diameter) and snap easily. Older pods develop a tough exterior, but the white seeds and flesh remain edible until the ripening process begins.



When producing seed for planting or for oil extraction, allow the pods to dry and turn brown on the tree. In some cases, it may be necessary to prop up a branch that holds many pods to prevent it breaking off. Harvest the pods before they split open and seeds fall to the ground. Seeds can be stored in well-ventilated sacks in dry, shady places.



For making leaf sauces, harvest seedlings, growing tips or young leaves. Older leaves must be stripped from the tough and wiry stems. These older leaves are more suited to making dried leaf powder since the stems are removed in the pounding and sifting process.



References



Fuglie, L., 1999. Producing Food Without Pesticides: Local solutions to crop pest control in West Africa. CTA, Wageningen, The Netherlands.



Morton, J.F. 1991. The Horseradish Tree, Moringa Pterygosperma (Moringaceae) - A Boon to Arid Lands? Economic Botany. 45(3):318-333.



Ramachandran, C., K.V. Peter, and P.K. Gopalakrishnan, 1980. Drumstick (Moringa oleifera): A Multipurpose Indian Vegetable. Economic Botany. 34(3):276-283.



Sreeja, K.V. 2001. Horti Nursery Networks, Tamil Nadu, India. Personal email of 26/03.



Warndorff, T. 2001. Personal email of 22.03.



Perdew, Rodney, President, Moringa Farms

 

[China Connection]

Lots of pictures of the Moringa Tree on the link:


http://www.hear.org/starr/images/species/?q=moringa+oleifera&o=plants

 

[China Connection]

These are the type of thing that should be considered for Guerrilla gardening but the trunk needs protection.

 

[China Connection]

Not much interest it seems in something that can save your life. I have grown the Tagasaste / Tree Lucerne from seed. You can strip the leaves off the new branches in your fingers and eat it. I prefer it to lettuce. It can keep you alive.

Most of you need to wake up to the fact that when things collapse the city people are going to flood the farms and strip them of conventional food. What are you going to do if they take your preps and conventional crops?


If you want to live it is not going to be easy for the first year. The ones with no preps or knowledge won't last the year. However a lot that have preps and knowledge won't last either when they get stripped of everything. However if they flood in and strip you of things but leave your dwelling intact and things like the two trees above alone then you can make it with a bit of luck.


Start to get new thinking before it is too late.



..

.

 

[iboya]

Guerrilla lurking...just placed an order for Moringa Oleifera seeds...

...as always thank you so much for all the information...

back to Guerrilla lurking mode...

 

[Garryowen]

Not much interest it seems in something that can save you life. I have grown the Tagasaste / Tree Lucerne from seed. You can strip the leaves off the new branches in your fingers and eat it. I prefer it to lettuce. It can keep you alive.

Most of you need to wake up to the fact that when things collapse the city people are going to flood the farms and strip them of conventional food. What are you going to do if they take your preps and conventional crops?


If you want to live it is not going to be easy for the first year. The ones with no preps or knowledge won't last the year. However a lot that have preps and knowledge won't last either when they get stripped of everything. However if they flood in and strip you of things but leave your dwelling intact and things like the two trees above alone then you can make it with a bit of luck.


Start to get new thinking before it is too late.



..

.

Yes, but can I grow it in North America? I have winter here, and sometimes it gets quite cold. It isn't as cold as Minnesota, but it will hardly qualify as sub-tropical either. Will the tree survive freezing temps?

regards,

Garryowen

 

[Fred's Horseradish]

Yes, but can I grow it in North America? I have winter here, and sometimes it gets quite cold. It isn't as cold as Minnesota, but it will hardly qualify as sub-tropical either. Will the tree survive freezing temps?

regards,

Garryowen

That's what I wonder too.

 

[duchess47]

Originally Posted by China Connection
Not much interest it seems in something that can save you life. I have grown the Tagasaste / Tree Lucerne from seed. You can strip the leaves off the new branches in your fingers and eat it. I prefer it to lettuce. It can keep you alive.

Most of you need to wake up to the fact that when things collapse the city people are going to flood the farms and strip them of conventional food. What are you going to do if they take your preps and conventional crops?


If you want to live it is not going to be easy for the first year. The ones with no preps or knowledge won't last the year. However a lot that have preps and knowledge won't last either when they get stripped of everything. However if they flood in and strip you of things but leave your dwelling intact and things like the two trees above alone then you can make it with a bit of luck.


Start to get new thinking before it is too late.

Temperature ranges are 25-35 degrees Celsius (0-95 degrees Fahrenheit), but the tree will tolerate up to 48 degrees in the shade and it can survive a light frost.

Have you ever lived in Northern Nevada? 109 degrees today. 14 inches of snow this winter that stayed on the ground for over a month. Below zero seems to be our new norm.

 

[Garryowen]

25-35 degrees Celsius (0-95 degrees Fahrenheit)

I'm no expert on converting C. to F., but that doesn't sound right to me. Isn't 0 C. the freezing temp of water, or 32 F.?

 

[China Connection]

Look there will be suitable trees for your area. They are called fodder trees. The Tagasaste / Tree Lucerne that I talk about I grew in Tasmania right down at the bottom. I was on the coast but I could see snow in the distance during mid summer. According to wikipedia it will take up to -9 C

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tagasaste


Tagasaste is suited to sandy, well drained soils of pH range 5-7. On deep, freely drained soils its roots can extend down to at least 10 metres. Any physical or chemical barrier in the soil that restricts root growth will reduce the productivity and survival of tagasaste. It is very susceptible to root rot fungus on poorly drained soils[1]. It will tolerate winter temperatures as low as -9°C[2]. Tagasaste leaves will be burnt by frost and seedlings can be killed at temperatures below 0°C. Growth of mature trees will slow at winter temperatures below 20°C. Tagasaste can tolerate temperatures up to 50°C, but above 36°C leaves close up from stress.

......................................................................................
Edible Forest Gardens (2 volume set)
Volume I: Ecological Vision and Theory for Temperate Climate Permaculture,
Volume II Ecological Design and Practice for Temperate Climate Permaculture
by Dave Jacke, Eric Toensmeier
Volume I Introduction

Introduction: An Invitation to Adventure

http://www.chelseagreen.com/booksto..._2_volume_set:hardcover/volume_i_introduction

Come among the unsown grasses bearing richly, the oaks heavy with acorns, the sweet roots in unplowed earth . . .
—Ursula K. LeGuin, Always Coming Home1

Picture yourself in a forest where almost everything around you is food. Mature and maturing fruit and nut trees form an open canopy. If you look carefully, you can see fruits swelling on many branches—pears, apples, persimmons, pecans, and chestnuts. Shrubs fill the gaps in the canopy. They bear raspberries, blueberries, currants, hazelnuts, and other lesser-known fruits, flowers, and nuts at different times of the year. Assorted native wildflowers, wild edibles, herbs, and perennial vegetables thickly cover the ground. You use many of these plants for food or medicine. Some attract beneficial insects, birds, and butterflies. Others act as soil builders, or simply help keep out weeds. Here and there vines climb on trees, shrubs, or arbors with fruit hanging through the foliage—hardy kiwis, grapes, and passionflower fruits. In sunnier glades large stands of Jerusalem artichokes grow together with groundnut vines. These plants support one another as they store energy in their roots for later harvest and winter storage. Their bright yellow and deep violet flowers enjoy the radiant warmth from the sky

What Is an Edible Forest Garden?

An edible forest garden is a perennial polyculture of multipurpose plants. Most plants regrow every year without replanting: perennials. Many species grow together: a polyculture. Each plant contributes to the success of the whole by fulfilling many functions: multipurpose. In other words, a forest garden is an edible ecosystem, a consciously designed community of mutually beneficial plants and animals intended for human food production. Edible forest gardens provide more than just a variety of foods. The seven F’s apply here: food, fuel, fiber, fodder, fertilizer, and “farmaceuticals,” as well as fun. A beautiful, lush environment can be a conscious focus of your garden design, or a side benefit you enjoy (see Figure 0.1).

Forest gardens mimic forest ecosystems, those natural perennial polycultures once found throughout the world’s humid climates. In much of North America, your garden would soon start reverting to forest if you were to stop tilling and weeding it. Annual and perennial weeds would first colonize the bare soil. Shrubs would soon shade out the weeds. Then, sun-loving pioneer trees would move in and a forest would be born. Eventually, even these pioneers would succumb to longer-lived, more shade-tolerant species. It can take many decades for this process, called succession, to result in a mature forest.

We humans work hard to hold back succession—mowing, weeding, plowing, and spraying. If the successional process were the wind, we would be constantly motoring against it. Why not put up a sail and glide along with the land’s natural tendency to become forest? Edible forest gardening is about expanding the horizons of our food gardening across the full range of the successional sequence, from field to forest, and everything in between.

Besides the food and other products, you should design your forest garden for self-renewing, self-fertilizing self-maintenance. For a self-renewing garden, plant mainly perennials or self-sowing annuals. Allow a healthy soil community to develop by mulching and leaving the soil undisturbed. Build soil fertility with plants that fix nitrogen, amass soil minerals, act as mulch sources, or a blend of these. Reduce or eliminate your pest control work by providing food and shelter for insectivorous birds, and predatory and parasitic insects. Fragrant plants, such as onions, may confuse insect pests and slow their march toward your crops. In fact, you can reduce pest and disease problems simply by mixing things up, rather than planting in blocks of the same species! All these things, and more, reduce the amount of maintenance your garden needs and increase its yields. When we mimic how nature works and design well, we can reduce the work of sustaining ourselves to mulching, some pruning, occasional weeding, and minimal pest and disease management (depending on the crops you grow). Oh, and then there’s the harvesting!

Essentially, edible forest gardening is the art and science of putting plants together in woodland-like patterns that forge mutually beneficial relationships, creating a garden ecosystem that is more than the sum of its parts. You can grow fruits, nuts, vegetables, herbs, mushrooms, other useful plants, and animals in a way that mimics natural ecosystems. You can create a beautiful, diverse, high-yield garden that is largely self-maintained.

Gardening LIKE the Forest vs. Gardening IN the Forest

Edible forest gardening is not necessarily gardening in the forest. It is gardening like the forest. You don’t need to have an existing woodland if you want to forest garden, though you can certainly work with one. Forest gardeners use the forest as a design metaphor, a model of structure and function, while adapting the design to focus on meeting human needs in a small space. We learn how forests work and then participate in the creation of an ecosystem in our backyards that can teach us things about ecology and ourselves while we eat our way through it. Gardening like a forest is what this book is all about.

Gardening in the forest is different. We can transform an existing piece of woodland into an edible forest garden, and this book will explain how, but there are many other ways to garden in the forest. These include the restoration of natural woodlands, ecological forestry, and the creation of primarily aesthetic woodland gardens. The latter forms of gardening in the forest are not what this book is about. If you want to garden in the forest in any of those ways, see the resources listed in the appendix. If you want to grow food in a garden like a forest, read on.

Where Can You Grow a Forest Garden?

Forest gardens are viable in small urban yards and large parks, on suburban lots, or in a corner of a rural farm. We have seen examples ranging from a 2-acre (0.8 ha) rural research garden, to a jungle of food plants on a quarter-acre lot, to a heavily planted 30-by-50-foot (9-by-15 m) embankment behind an urban housing project. Smaller versions are definitely possible; the same principles and ideas still apply, though it might stretch the word forest rather far. Despite the name “forest garden,” it is best if your site has good sun. Of course, if your land is shady and wooded, this book has plenty of ideas and information you can use.

You can most easily grow forest gardens where forest is the native vegetation, especially deciduous forest. This means a climate with ample rainfall during the growing season, and relatively mild winters. This book focus on the lands now and formerly covered by the eastern deciduous forest between USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 4 and 7, with some overlap into zones 3 and 8 (see figure 0.2). However, the information presented applies to all of Earth’s moist temperate habitats, and beyond. Eric researched plants from similar climates the world over for inclusion in the Top 100 Species (see appendix 1) and the Plant Species Matrix (in Volume II’s appendices). The principles of ecology still apply in other locales. Those of you in drier climates, such as the prairies and the Desert Southwest, can grow forest gardens too, if you provide irrigation and wind protection. You should, however, look to your native habitats as models for sustainable agriculture. Those of you in the north, say, plant hardiness zone 3 and colder, have more limited species options, but you can still play the game.

The Garden of Eden: It Sounds Great, But is it Practical?
We like to think of edible forest gardening as recreating the Garden of Eden. The introduction’s first paragraph makes it sound like it is. Is such an abundant, low-maintenance food garden really possible? Let’s take a few lessons from a little history.

The notion of edible forest gardening is ancient in many ways, but relatively new to modern Western culture, especially in North America. The peoples of tropical Africa, Asia, and Latin America have a long tradition of multistoried agriculture. Their farms and gardens often integrate trees, shrubs, livestock, and herbaceous crops in various ways—a set of strategies called agroforestry. Fodder trees in pastures provide windbreaks, livestock forage, and shade. Some of these trees also improve the soil by fixing nitrogen from the air and putting it into the soil. Alley cropping systems combine rows of nitrogen-fixing and food-producing trees with strips of annual crops like corn and potatoes. Multistoried "food forest" systems used in many tropical regions mimic the rainforest, growing crops such as coconut, oil palms, bananas, coffee, pineapples, and ginger. The Javanese have grown village- and home-scale forest gardens since at least the tenth century. These comprise 15 to 50 percent of village croplands.2 Obviously, forest gardens work in tropical climates, and have for a long time. Similar systems existed in cooler climates hundreds of years ago. We’ll discuss the forest-management practices of North American Indians in chapter 1, but Western culture also has an agroforestry heritage.

An intensive land use system called coppice forestry was used throughout Britain and continental Europe beginning at least in the Middle Ages. Many trees can sprout from the stump and regrow vigorously after being cut down. These stump sprouts, called coppice, can provide fuel, fiber, fodder, or mulch, depending on the species (figure 0.3). In medieval Europe, coppice plots produced logs, poles, saplings, and brush for use in craft, industry, and building construction. Cut on nine- to twenty-five-year rotations, they offered excellent habitat for wild game, as well as for wild edible and medicinal plants essential to the medieval diet. Coppicing dramatically prolongs a tree’s life, so coppice stumps can produce material for generations. British researchers have proven that several continuously coppiced stumps, known as stools, are 500 to 800 years old, two to three times a tree’s normal life span.3 Talk about sustainability! Unfortunately, coppice forestry systems almost disappeared during the Industrial Revolution, but they are experiencing a budding revival, at least in Britain.

The record certainly shows that forest-gardenlike systems have been viable and practical in temperate climates. Isn’t it possible for us to do far better now if we put our hearts and minds to it? A small but growing number of people in the cold climates of the world have been developing these ideas for the current era.

J. Russell Smith’s seminal 1950 work Tree Crops: A Permanent Agriculture first sparked renewed interest in the potential of agroforestry throughout the world. However, tropical countries and large-scale tree-crop systems received most of the resulting research attention. Bill Mollison and David Holmgren also studied tropical and subtropical ecosystems, along with arid lands. As cofounders of the permaculture concept in late 1970s Australia,4 they gathered ideas for designing “permanent agricultures” using ecological principles and dispersed them to virtually every continent. Tree crops and agroforestry systems were a large part of permaculture’s initial toolbox. Permaculture practices now extend beyond agriculture into all aspects of human culture, and range from regional to household scales. Unfortunately, permaculture’s subtropical origins and the overwhelming need for these ideas in lower latitudes has led most permaculture literature to focus outside of temperate climates, at least until recently.

Robert Hart pioneered temperate agroforestry at home-scale with his inspirational 1991 book Forest Gardening.5 Hart’s insights arose from his tropical agroforestry work,6 his Gandhian beliefs, and his experiments on a tiny smallholding in Shropshire, England, where he started his garden in 1981 (see figures 0.4 and 0.5). That makes it the oldest known temperate climate forest garden in the world (see our case study on page XXX). His forest garden was a beautiful testament to his vision. Unfortunately, last we knew it was in legal limbo after his death in March, 2000. Permaculture designer and teacher Patrick Whitefield followed Hart’s book with his more practical How to Make a Forest Garden,7 a solid book with a British focus. These two books, combined with numerous works on permaculture, sparked widespread planting of forest gardens in Britain. These gardens and books all demonstrate the potential of edible forest gardens, if not the actual benefits.

Forest gardens have spread more slowly in North America. Fewer people have heard of the idea, so examples are farther between—but they do exist. Forest gardeners have achieved at least moderate success in maritime Washington State, at 7,000 feet (2,100 m) in the cold, dry Colorado Rockies (figure 0.4), in the hot, humid city of Greensboro, North Carolina, and in chilly southern New Hampshire.

An Invitation to Adventure

We have yet to work out many practical considerations for this “new idea” of forest gardening, especially in North America. British forest-garden plants and experiences may not translate well to this continent. Many of our native plants have good forest gardening potential, but we have tested few of them. Strong evidence supports the forest garden idea, yet this information lies scattered across many different references on farming, gardening, agroforestry, and ecology. We have seen good on-the-ground examples on two continents. We have also created enough of these gardens and grown enough of the species to know they can work. Still, we believe it can work better than anyone has yet achieved. Successful forest gardens stand within reach of many people throughout the temperate world—as long as they can find clear thinking, accurate knowledge, and solid information on the ecology of useful plants. But there is still much to learn, and this is where you come in.

You hold in your hands the first manual spelling out key concepts of forest ecology and how to apply them to a North American forest garden. Our intent is to provide you with a comprehensive guide to forest garden theory and practice; give a significant push to the state of the art; and get as many people as possible involved in experimenting with this idea. The purpose of Edible Forest Gardens is to offer you the inspiration, information, and tools you need to successfully grow your own forest garden.

The book comes in two volumes, covering the vision, ecological theory, design, and practice of forest gardening. Volume I has two parts, and part 1, “Vision,” includes two chapters. Chapter 1 looks at the ecological and cultural context for forest gardening, focusing on eastern North America. Chapter 2 lays out a vision of forest gardening’s potential for reintegrating ourselves into the natural world, and goals for edible forest garden design arising from that vision. Four chapters in part 2, “Ecology,” explore the ecology of the forest and the forest garden. They build solid theoretical foundations from which to derive guidelines for forest garden design and management. When we create edible forest gardens, we consciously create both visible and invisible structures to fulfill the goals discussed in the vision. Throughout these first two parts of the book, you will find Boxes and Feature Articles that go into greater depth on particular topics of interest. In addition, three case studies scattered through the text provide concrete examples of forest gardens we visited in our research travels.

Volume I concludes with three appendices. The first describes forest gardening’s “Top 100 Species” to whet your appetite for the nitty gritty and give you a sense of forest gardening’s food-production potential. Plant hardiness zone maps for North America and Europe follow this, as well as a list of publications and organizations that can help you learn more about forest ecology and forest gardening. The glossary, bibliography, and indices should also assist you in using Edible Forest Gardens effectively. Glossary terms are shown in bold the first time they appear in the text.

Volume II is essentially a “forest gardener’s tool kit,” and constitutes part 3 of this work. It contains seven chapters explaining how to design, plant, and manage your forest garden. These chapters place all the implications of the ecological analysis in Part Two into a gardening and garden-design context. The second volume also includes five appendices that offer detailed information and resources to help you map your site, select and find plants, and create beneficial animal habitat. This first volume sometimes refers to various parts of Volume II because we want you to understand how the theory explored here guides the practical aspects of forest gardening discussed there. To ensure clarity, we will use a Roman numeral prefix (“II”) to designate a chapter or appendix located in Volume II when making such references (such as “Chapter II-3,” or “Appendix II-1”).

Please note that though this work comes in two volumes, we have tried to make each volume able to stand alone. However, for optimal understanding and application of the ideas and practices presented, we strongly recommend that you read both volumes. Like the elements that compose an ecosystem, these two volumes are separate but interrelated, and function most effectively when used in tandem.

So we invite you to join in a lifetime of quiet adventure. Ecological systems at their essence operate on simple principles yet have endlessly fascinating intricacies. Many tasty and useful plants stand ready for use in forest gardens. Many more exist with great potential for selection and development. We know much about the basics of edible forest-garden design and management, but there is still much more to learn. It seems we have many lifetimes worth of creative interest and fulfilling enjoyment ahead.

We seek to learn—from our own fields, thickets, forests, and wetlands—the ways in which living things have adapted to our climate and land. We want to mimic these habitats with productive garden ecosystems. The goal is to create mutually beneficial communities of multipurpose plants for our own sustenance, and thereby to include ourselves in the natural world. We seek to recreate the Garden of Eden, and, as Bill Mollison says, “Why not?”

1. Le Guin, 1985, page 80.
2. Reijntjes, et al, 1992, page 38.
3. Rackham, 1993.
4. Permaculture One (Mollison and Holmgren, 1978) and Permaculture Two (Mollison, 1979), the first books on permaculture, are no longer in print, but have been succeeded by Introduction to Permaculture (Mollison and Sley, 1991) and Permaculture: A Designers Manual (Mollison, 1988, now with several newer editions), both from Tagari Publications, Tyalgum, NSW, Australia.
5. Hart, 1991.
6. Douglas and Hart, 1984.
7. Whitefield, 1996.

 

[iboya]

You can grow moringa indoors

 

[China Connection]

Now lets get some input from other members on fodder trees! It is something you need to consider. You can't eat all fodder trees but think worm heaps and other ways of producing food without detection.


............................................................................................

Fodder Trees


Shrubs and tree fodders for farm animals

in various climates. More than 400 species of trees and shrubs are ..... The
area is large but generally dry and cold. Shrubs and tree leaves are one of the

http://idl-bnc.idrc.ca/dspace/bitstream/10625/19262/1/49268_p295-302.pdf

Not all types of fodder trees and shrubs perform well in each area. Different
types of trees and shrubs are suited to different climates (depending on ...
www.agromisa.org/displayblob.php?ForeignKey=431&Id=316 - - Similar pages
Legume trees and other fodder trees as protein sources for livestock

In the rangelands, particularly in the semi arid areas, tree forages, seeds and
pods ... they can be more efficient than animals in a cold climate. ...
www.fao.org/docrep/003/t0632e/T0632E06.htm - 43k - Similar pages

 

[Ender]

I want one!

Will it grow in high desert?

 

[JustCause]

Have you ever lived in Northern Nevada? 109 degrees today. 14 inches of snow this winter that stayed on the ground for over a month. Below zero seems to be our new norm.

Agreed. Over 100 or below 0. Not much in between lately.

 

[Fred's Horseradish]

I am interested. Better than eating maggots!!!

 

[China Connection]

A cold temperature food you can grow on fodder crops. Easy to hide the livestock.

Inspired by the memories of her childhood pets Fluffy and Mickey, Lynn Levin travels to Peru in the hope of eating a small furry dish so repellent that she can brag about it for the rest of her life. Unfortunately, she succeeds ...
From THE SMART SET

I have been known to eat foods that others snub. As a student, I lived off back-of-the-store, reduced-price vegetables and fruits. Day-or-more-old muffins and danish were a treat. My best company dish was a cheap and tasty enchilada casserole that I made with chicken necks and backs. So it was only natural I should one day undertake a real gastronomic adventure. I should try to eat a pet, a nice small one. A guinea pig would do, and the place to accomplish that was Peru where cuy, as guinea pig is known, was said to be a staple of the traditional diet.

Of course, I didn’t travel to Peru just to challenge the frontiers of dining. It had long been my dream to explore the cloud-crested ruins of Machu Picchu and to glide upon Lake Titicaca in a reed boat. I wanted to brush up on my Spanish. I wanted to experience the Andes. I wanted to try a dish so repellent that I could brag about it for the rest of my life. No matter that the furry beasts were the hapless servants of science, or that my sister and I once kept them as pets, or that every single person I spoke to curled his face in revulsion when I announced my intention to dine on a creature normally at home on a bed of cedar shavings. The more folks made retching motions, the more I rubbed my palms together with anticipation over a dish of something I imagined as a kind of mammalian Cornish game hen. I pledged to myself that I would consume cuy and then return home to triumphantly proclaim to my sister that I had eaten Fluffy.

How fondly I remembered my sister Judy’s sweet-tempered little calico guinea pig. Fluffy loved to be held and stroked. We had a tea parties for her. We made her salads with tough outer lettuce leaves. Fluffy nibbled on carrot tops and rabbit pellets. She didn’t exercise much, but neither did anyone in our family. She lounged through a placid life until we felt she needed a mate and introduced Mickey into her cage. A hefty albino, Mickey had beady red eyes, a nasty attitude, and a pair of tusks that drew more than their share of our blood.

The match, I think, was cruel one. I have often regretted it. Therefore it would have been more fitting to imagine myself biting into the hostile Mickey in retribution. But I imagined him as bitter and tough. There would be no pleasure in his degustation, none of the delight of eating Fluffy.

In Peru, I learned that cuy was prepared in a number of ways. You could make it stuffed and roasted, piquant and quartered, or flattened whole and fried. And while my host family in Cusco, the Mariscals, never served it at almuerzo, our main midday meal, cuy is said to be widely consumed in Peru. According to the author of Unmentionable Cuisine, veterinarian and food expert Calvin Schwabe, cuy provides over 50 percent of Peru’s animal protein. Many people raise guinea pigs at home, and others buy them killed and cleaned in the meat section of the market. Ask a Peruvian if he or she eats cuy, and you will hear that person wax sentimental about the way his or her mamá prepared it--just the same way an American will rhapsodize about Mom’s apple pie or fried chicken. Still, as much as the Peruvians boasted of their favorite cuy fricassee or roast cuy, not once did I see an Andean or a Criollo actually eat cuy.

So why should my mind and guts rebel before a carefully prepared dish of pet? Was I just too ethnocentric? Did I think it barbaric or taboo? If I were starving, I would probably see things differently.

Cuy is by no means the most stomach-turning thing one can consume. In some parts of the Amazon jungle, people eat monkey, an animal whose genome is too close to human for my taste. Apropos of the human genome, food writer Jen Karetnick, who has done considerable research on Peruvian witchcraft, reveals that in some remote areas of Peru certain cooks may stir stew with a human femur or scrape bits of skull into a marinade of fish. Karetnick explains that this is part of a spell-casting ritual, adding that the use of human remains in cooking is strictly illegal in Peru. Good to hear that since fish with skull is another no-brainer for me. But in the Andes, what did I eat unawares? There’s a mystery.

The issue of cannibalism or quasi-cannibalism aside, food tastes and food taboos are relative. The Chinese eat cat and dog. Moses declared that locusts were kosher. The Japanese challenge death by indulging in the poisonous fugu fish. The Philippinos drink and chew the delicacy of balut, the nearly mature embryo of a chick cooked in its shell. And what about haggis, the stuffed sheep’s stomach so dear to Scottish palates and my own? I did not want to be ethnocentric. I wanted to overcome a food prejudice and eat a pet, a pet that, unfortunately, also happened to be a rat.

Rodent eating, however, is not unheard of even in America. Squirrel is a classic ingredient in Brunswick stew. In some parts of New Jersey, fire companies and churches hold muskrat dinners. On the Internet, you can find recipes for muskrat, or marsh hare, as it is sometimes known. I also found a recipe for rottweiler with sweet potatoes. But I digress. The Peruvians think it is bizarre and hilarious that Americans keep guinea pigs as pets.

For the first two weeks in Peru I demurred when it came to cuy. I dined on ajÃ* gallina, a spicy chicken stew, and lomo saltado, a yummy stir-fried beef dish gilded with french fries. I particularly liked alpaca, a meat which I found a little chewy, but very tasty. Grilled and attractively plated, it looked just like scallops of beef. At most every meal I ate choclo, the bland, starchy, mega-kernelled corn that is a staple of the Peruvian diet. It didn’t taste as good as it looked, but served with a chunk of salty cheese--a bite of choclo, a bite of queso -- I learned to like it better. I developed a fondness for mana, a kind of giant marshmallow-sized sweetened popcorn, a popular snack you could buy from street vendors. Peru, of course, is the birthplace of corn and potatoes, and one is served spuds of all types: yellow, white, purple, dried and reconstituted, and then some.

It was not until I was in the town of Aguas Calientes, a maze of repetitive souvenir shops, restaurants, and hostels that served the budget tourists to Machu Picchu that I bellied up to the challenge of eating guinea pig. It was now or never, I thought, for after Machu Picchu I would journey on to Lake Titicaca, and I didn’t know if I would be able to order cuy there.

This was February, the height of the rainy season. In Aguas Calientes, torrents Niagara’d off the awnings of the shops and restaurants. Deluges turned the staircase-like streets into tributaries of the Urubamba, the river that roared and rushed through the town and by the base of Machu Picchu. The town itself is called “Hot Waters” after its thermal springs, which are popular with the younger hikers. While my traveling partners, Michelle and Nancy, dared the spa, I passed, being fastidious, if not about eating strange things, then at least about stewing in a pool of backpacker bacteria. The rain had put a damper on our spirits. We did not look forward to hiking the ruins during a downpour, but magically the skies cleared the morning we were to visit Machu Picchu, and I even saw a flock of green parrots wing by a mountainside.

Never discovered, hence never destroyed by the Spaniards, Machu Picchu stands in silent majesty along the eyebrow of the rainforest. We spent a glorious morning exploring its emerald agricultural terraces and its common, royal, and sacred precincts. It was a sublime and strenuous visit. By the time we returned to Aguas Calientes, we had worked up an appetite. It was time for my next adventure. It was time to try cuy.

Together we searched for a suitable restaurant. We dismissed quite a few: too expensive, too pretentious, not clean, no guinea pig, overly expensive guinea pig. At last we settled on a homey little place called El Candamo, mostly because of its comically mistranslated menu, which was headlined: “Plates to the pleasure give the victim.”

Here, the Roasted Alpaca, or Asado de Alpaca, was known as Roasted He/She Gives German Nickel. Trout Roman-style, or Trucha a la Romana, was Trout to the Roman One. Milanesa de Pollo, or Chicken Milanese-styl,e became Milanesa Gives Chicken. Then there was my favorite: Milanesa a la Napolitana de Res, or Milanesa to the Neapolitan One Gives Head. Michelle ordered trout. Nancy asked for spaghetti. Though I regretted having to pass up that Milanese and Neapolitan combo, I went for the Cuy al Horno. Oven-roasted cuy. It cost 32 soles or about $10, and I watched with some trepidation as the cook took the small prepared mammal, lay it on a shallow white tray, and slid it into a wood-burning clay oven. Soon after I finished my Cusqueña beer, the dish was ready. The waitress smiled at me ironically.

Fluffy lay on the plate congealed and scorched, paws up, claws and head on, ringed with papas fritas, a huge log of choclo, and a few slices of cucumber and tomato. The garnishes surrounded her the way flowers garlanded the body at a funeral parlor. Fluffy was helpless. Her hind legs were splayed in indignity. Her orifices winked at me. Lest one take her for a pig, her two pairs of chisel-like incisors classed her at once in the order Rodentia. Fluffy had bits of herb over her eyes. Her mouth was frozen into an unmerry rictus, that sarcastic grin born by Death who always has the last laugh. “So, living stiff,” she chortled silently, “eat me. I dare you.”

The body of the cuy was pierced at various points to let the fat run out. With much difficulty I split it open with the dull table knife. Inside there was a dark green stuffing, made mostly of parsley and flavored with various herbs. It was potent and aromatic, but as I dipped in a second time, I came up with a fork of noodle-like stuff; the animal’s intestines were mixed in with the green. So much for the stuffing. I took a deep breath for courage then cut and mostly combed at the meat with my fork. It was a labor- intensive dish. I found I had to separate the thin sheets of meat from the leather and subcutaneous fat. After giving Michelle and Nancy as much as they would accept--about two teaspoons each, I tried the meat. It was pungent, perhaps from the herb stuffing. There was a slipperiness to it. It was stringy and chewy and tasted like pork. And that was enough cuy for me.

Partly out of respect for my companions, partly out of respect for the corpse, I drew some tiny flimsy restaurant napkins over Fluffy’s face and body. Thankfully Nancy was generous in sharing her spaghetti, and Michelle gave me some of her guacamole. The Cusqueña beer helped. All that plus a serious loss of appetite made for an adequate lunch.

My friend, Odi Gonzales, who is not only a noted Peruvian poet but also a genuine ethnic Inca with a passion for cuy, later told me that you are supposed to pick up the cuy whole with your hands and suck the meat off the thin bones. You then draw out and discard any bones that end up in your mouth. Clearly my knifing and forking had not contributed positively to my rodent-eating experience. I thought of the waitress at El Candamo and her sly smile. It must have been routinely funny to see the tourists struggle with the varmint. In her heart I think she knew that I would have been better off with the Milanesa to the Neapolitan One Gives Head.

Those of us who are not vegetarians eat dead things. This is the common fact. If you accept that humans are omnivores, which I do, we as a species kill and cook so that we may eat and live. I have never had much patience for sanctimonious vegetarians who tell me that morally I should be able to kill a cow if I want the right to eat steak. Nevertheless, there is something shocking about the frankness of seeing the cooked body entire. Of seeing the thing with its teeth. Many people, said Dr Schwabe, have a bias against eating an animal served whole. Some will not eat fish with the head on or roast suckling pig. Well, it was that, of course, but it was also that the darn thing was a rat. As far as the gastronomy of disgust goes, I’d give whole roasted guinea pig at least an eight. So when it came time to report to my sister about eating Fluffy, I had to confess that I had eaten her, but not very much.

On the other hand, I obtained a new degree of self-knowledge. I discovered that when it came to eating strange things, I was not as brave as I thought. Some might even call me chicken.

Yet, if you, too, wish to overcome a food prejudice and eat a pet, you may want to know how to prepare cuy. I came across this recipe for stuffed guinea pig in Peru.

You will need:

one clean guinea pig
onion
ground chili pepper and ground red chili pepper (both very spicy)
cooking oil
parsley
oregano
mint
huaycatay (an herb that tastes and smells like a blend of black mint and marigold)
walnuts
salt
butter.

The recipe, obviously not one for the beginning cook, instructs you to open the guinea pig ventrally, then to salt and drain it. After salting and draining, remove the organs and intestines, but do not wash the cuy anymore. Parboil the innards separately, then pierce them and dress them with onion, chili pepper, and oil. In another container, prepare a finely chopped mixture of the parsley, mint, oregano, huaycatay, walnuts, and salt. Combine the mixture with the cooked organs and intestines and stuff all that back into the body cavity of the guinea pig. Coat the guinea pig with butter and ground red pepper. Place the critter in a roasting pan and cook it in the oven “until it’s done.”

Revised American instructions: First, go to a pet store...

(Lynn Levin is a poet and teacher of creative writing at the University of Pennsylvania and Drexel University. This article appeared first in The Smart Set. It is republished here with permission.)

 

[China Connection]

History of Rodent Eating

http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1029&context=vpc14

Peruvians have been consuming guinea pigs for centuries.
The guinea pig, domesticated since at least 2500 B.C.
(Lanning 1967), was the first rodent raised for food. By the
15th century A.D. (during the Incaic Empire), it was the
principal meat consumed. Capybara (Hydrochaeris
hydrochaeris)may have been domesticated in Brazil as early as
A.D. 1565 (Gonzalez-Jimenez 1984).
Early Chinese ate "household deer" [common rat
(probably Rattus norvegicus or R. flavipectus) and bamboo
rat (Rhizomys spp.)] and during the Tang dynasty (A.D. 618-
907) ate newborn rats stuffed with honey, conveniently
snatching them with chopsticks (Hendrickson 1983). Romans
popularized the edible dormouse [Myoxus (=Glis) glis] by the
2nd century. It was caught from the wild in autumn when it
was fattest and either roasted and dipped into honey or baked
while stuffed with a mixture of pork, pine nuts, and other
flavorings. Romans also raised dormice in special pots called
"gliraria" and in large outdoor enclosures where they were fed
walnuts, chestnuts, and acorns for fattening (Brothwell and
Brothwell 1969). Southeastern Europeans still enjoy dormice

 

[Chair Warmer]

Like to have access to try growing them around here. Sounds like they'd be an incredible asset to have!!

Me too! China Connection's post #12 gives details for growing Moringa. If you don't live in a warm southern state you can grow them as a potted plant and bring it inside for Winter. You'll probably have to keep it pruned to your ceiling height. I'm thinking about checking out the health food store for supplements to try as a natural and cheaper alternative for hubby's blood pressure.

I'll try to find more information for growing this outdoors in the US and if I find some I'll post it.

Guerrilla lurking...just placed an order for Moringa Oleifera seeds
......as always thank you so much for all the information...
back to Guerrilla lurking mode...

You're welcome iboya. I'd love to hear how growing them goes for you. If I lived in the subtropic South I'd love to start a secret guerilla "Johny Moringa Seed crusade" haha I should shut up now before I make the Bilderbergers want to bump me off for thinking that way, ssshhhh, I meant Moringa is very bad, very, very bad and nobody should ever eat that stuff, it's not even FDA approved I don't think! Hey iboya, you should come out and throw some bananas around with us more often!

Mrs. CW

 

[Chair Warmer]

Not much interest it seems in something that can save you life. I have grown the Tagasaste / Tree Lucerne from seed. You can strip the leaves off the new branches in your fingers and eat it. I prefer it to lettuce. It can keep you alive.

I'm sorry it's taken me so long to reply, I just had time to catch up on all of the wonderful information you added and thank you so much! It looks like lots of people clicked to view the the thread and I'm thinking they just don't have experience with these plants to share so they must be here to learn about them, which is great! Knowledge is power!

I have a few questions for you from your posts.

The Tagaste article states it's remarkable use for animals but no mention of human consumption. Of course you experienced eating it yourself and and you're fine but do people regularly eat Tagaste in some cultures and is it found to be safe?

I'm just wary of some foods being used long term if they're not commonly used or studied to show their toxicity level is safe.

One example is that people have used Moringa root but after it was studied found to have toxicity in the root part of the plant, but we're also assured by the studies the leaves are safe.

When people's diet contains a good variety of foods then it shouldn't be of much concern if an item they rarely consume contains a very low toxicity level but if they must depend on only one or two limited foods it becomes most important to know the toxicitiy level because those toxins will become greatly accumulated in their bodies.

Here's a personal experience as an example; I was having some breathing difficulties about a year ago and researched natural herbs for it. I learned about and gathered wild Mullein and started drinking tea and found a great amount of relief. Since it worked so well I started adding Mullein to my regular batch of black/green mixed tea for every day use. After more research I found Mullein contains a mild level of toxicity and realized this was not something I should be consuming multiple times every day or else I could cause liver damage or even failure, but once in awhile as needed should be fine.

After having that experience, I feel we should try to use caution with new foods especially when they will be consumed on a regular basis.

Of course if it ever reaches the point where were sure we'll die of immediate starvation then we might as well eat anything that would sustain us for even a few more months or years.

So I'm wondering if Tagaste would be safe for long term human consumption or should we just use it to sustain us short term?


About chickens, I've really wanted to get some chickens but I'd have to feed them cheaper than what we spend on eggs and occasional chicken meat. I could grow some corn, but I'd have to study the diet requirements before I know what all they need. If we decide to get chickens the knowledge about maggots will be so helpful. Thank you for all the helpful information you share I really appreciate it!

Mrs. CW

 

[inskanoot]

The flowers

are beautiful.

 

[Chair Warmer]

Moringa Drought/Freeze Tolerance and Specific Species Warning

From what I've read it grows outdoors in USDA zones 9-11 but some are listing the zones as 10-11. I've also read if the tree dies from freeze, the root will produce the tree to grow back.


Comment from ChayaMan;

Seedlings and young trees are a favorite browse for deer and other herbivores, and so must be protected. Seed sown directly in the ground produces a very deep taproot, which will continue until enough water/moisture is reached, even at the expense of not growing the trunk or leaves. Because of this taproot, the tree is very drought-resistant, once established, and will recover even from a hard freeze (hence one of its names, the "Never-Die" Tree). However, container trees can be killed by 8 hours @ 26 degrees. Trees often grow 15 feet the first year, and may reach a maximum height of 65 feet. The wood is brittle, so the trees should not be planted near houses, where a limb might break off in the wind.



One cautionary note: The leaves of a close relative, M. stenopetala, are larger and easier to harvest, although they are not as nutritionally complete as those of M. oleifera. The leaves of M. stenopetala should not be eaten as a steady diet because of a higher amount of hydrocyanic acid in the leaves; health problems have been documented where M. stenopetala is the principle dietary food.

More info. at link posted above.

 

[Volleyball Granny]

IAbout chickens, I've really wanted to get some chickens but I'd have to feed them cheaper than what we spend on eggs and occasional chicken meat. I could grow some corn, but I'd have to study the diet requirements before I know what all they need. If we decide to get chickens the knowledge about maggots will be so helpful. Thank you for all the helpful information you share I really appreciate it!
Mrs. CW

I want chickens, too. Every time I put stuff into the composter, I think that chickens would really like the watermelon rind (and other fresh stuff). When we were kids, our neighbors (old farm people) used table scraps to supplement the free range chickens. They didn't buy any food just for the chickens. Their chickens were fine. Sometimes, we over-do things...I live by my granddaddy's 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' creed.

For guerrilla gardening, ducks might be better. I found some that nest in the trees...they wouldn't obviously be food to many people--how many of us buy duck eggs at the grocery store? My problem with ducks is that, while the tree ducks thrive without water, they like water and there are several ponds close by--I'd probably lose them to the water. I have thought about it, though...still thinking. Now that my fence is up, there's a greater possibility that I'll act on it.

 

[China Connection]

If it doesn't hurt pigs we are pretty safe. Look if I have too much green tea I have sleep problems. You can eat it safe enough in sense-able amounts. You can feed it to heaps of things that you can then eat.

.............................................................

Tagasaste, Chamaecytisus palmensis - Фонд Исследования Аграрного ...

The leaves contain 20 to 40% protein with no reported toxicity. ... and carry
systems, since grazing animals, pigs and poultry readily consume its leaves. ...
www.fadr.msu.ru/rodale/agsieve/txt/vol2/9/art7.html - 3k - Similar pages
Australian Tagasaste Seed, WEEPING TAGASASTE SEEDLINGS

A prostrate cultivar of regular tagasaste produced in Western Australia. ...
which results in the leaves containing 20 to 40% protein, with no reported
toxicity. ... since grazing animals, pigs and poultry readily consume its leaves
. ...
kimseed.com.au/tagasaste.htm - 9k - Similar pages

 

[Chair Warmer]

I want chickens, too. Every time I put stuff into the composter, I think that chickens would really like the watermelon rind (and other fresh stuff). When we were kids, our neighbors (old farm people) used table scraps to supplement the free range chickens. They didn't buy any food just for the chickens. Their chickens were fine. Sometimes, we over-do things...I live by my granddaddy's 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' creed.

For guerrilla gardening, ducks might be better. I found some that nest in the trees...they wouldn't obviously be food to many people--how many of us buy duck eggs at the grocery store? My problem with ducks is that, while the tree ducks thrive without water, they like water and there are several ponds close by--I'd probably lose them to the water. I have thought about it, though...still thinking. Now that my fence is up, there's a greater possibility that I'll act on it.

Granddaddies usually have the greatest philosophies! I've read posts about how much care goes into domestic goats, then I wonder about all the goat herds in Africa and other third world countries and how and if they manage to be healthy.

My region gets cold Winters and snow so I think chickens here would have to get plenty of supplemental food. Thank you for the table scrap idea.

A long time ago I experienced cooking a duck roasted like a turkey and the house stank so bad I had to go outside and it was so greasy. It was so gross I didn't eat any of it. I think there's a certain way ducks need to be cooked and we didn't know how. Turtles also stink badly and the method I witnessed was cooked by boiling. Their hearts beat a very long time after they're removed from the body. That's probably the reason they live for over a century. That was a very interesting experience and I have to admit, I held the turtle's beating heart in my hand and played with it to keep it beating for as long as I could. lol

I think farm birds need to have their wings/feathers clipped to keep them from flying away but I don't know which part of the wing. I've watched from a distance when I was younger and it didn't look hard to do.

Mrs. CW

 

[BlueNewton]

Great thread!!

 

[Chair Warmer]

If it doesn't hurt pigs we are pretty safe. Look if I have too much green tea I have sleep problems. You can eat it safe enough in sense-able amounts. You can feed it to heaps of thing that you can then eat.

.............................................................

The leaves contain 20 to 40% protein with no reported toxicity. ... and carry
systems, since grazing animals, pigs and poultry readily consume its leaves. ...
www.fadr.msu.ru/rodale/agsieve/txt/vol2/9/art7.html - 3k - Similar pages
Australian Tagasaste Seed, WEEPING TAGASASTE SEEDLINGS

A prostrate cultivar of regular tagasaste produced in Western Australia. ...
which results in the leaves containing 20 to 40% protein, with no reported
toxicity. ... since grazing animals, pigs and poultry readily consume its leaves

I hadn't considered the pigs diet in relation to human safety factor. That makes complete sense though.

Thank you for the additional information on Tagasaste toxicity. It looks like a great plant to consider with multiple benefits.

Mrs. CW

 

[China Connection]

Bantams are better than chickens provided you have your garden with a fence around it. They lay more eggs and can survive quite well if there is hiding areas for them like bamboo etc. Someone can find your chickens easy enough but not so easy with bantams.


http://www.bernalpublishing.com/poultry/essays/essay11.shtml



.

 

[savurselvs]

AWESOME IMFORMATION

AWESOME POST GUYS

where did you order your seeds?

 

[iboya]

AWESOME POST GUYS

where did you order your seeds?

I ordered from here:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...s+hirt&ih=15_1_1_0_0_1_0_0_0_1.125_394&fsc=-1
$3.99 for 10 seeds plus $4.49 shipping, total $8.48 for 10 seeds