Beef Why did the raw meat cannibal sandwich become so popular in Wisconsin? And why has it stayed that way?

Red Baron

Paleo-Conservative
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I wonder how common this is elsewhere around the country?

We often had raw beef sandwiches at home for special occasions. It was common to see it at office parties, weddings, and all kinds of other events.

The key to this is that you do -not- use regular ground beef. Local delis and grocery stores would grind up something like a round or sirloin steak while you waited.

The recipe was always the same - beef, thin sliced onion, rye bread, salt and pepper. Now that I think about it, it was always served on large plates. One didn't just peck at this, we would wolf down pounds and pounds of this stuff at gatherings.

Fair Use Cited
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Why did the raw meat cannibal sandwich become so popular in Wisconsin? And why has it stayed that way?

Rachel Ryan, Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

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The cannibal sandwich, made from raw beef and onions on rye bread, at Ray's Butcher Shoppe in Greenfield. The sandwich is a popular menu item at family gatherings, weddings, anniversaries and more. Ray's Butcher Shoppe goes through around 1,000 pounds of ground round during the holidays.

Some Wisconsinites may know cannibal sandwiches because they're a family tradition — or because of the warnings from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Cannibal sandwiches are a Midwest staple. Consisting of fresh raw beef on rye bread topped with chopped onion, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper, the dish makes some squirm and others lick their chops.

Last December, the popular dish even gained international attention with a tweet from the Wisconsin Department of Health Services that warned against eating raw meat.

But where did the tradition come from? Why is it so popular in Wisconsin?

As part of our What the Wisconsin? series that explores readers' questions large and small about our state, we looked into the past and present of the cannibal sandwich.

Roots in the German tradition

Germany has a similar dish of minced raw pork or beef served on bread and seasoned with salt and pepper. There, it's called mett or hackepeter.

And it’s no secret that Wisconsin has a large German presence. At one point, Milwaukee was even considered the “German Athens of America.”

Germans immigrated here in the 1800s for agriculture and, later, dairy cattle farming. And with easy access to fresh meat, they could make what’s known today as cannibal sandwiches, said Anna Altschwager, Old World Wisconsin’s assistant director for guest experiences. Old World Wisconsin, the living history museum in Eagle, is operated by the Wisconsin Historical Society.

If Germans went to New York, they would not have had the access to the fresh ground beef required for the sandwich — and the tradition may have fallen away there, Altschwager said.

The density of the German population in the Midwest also meant communities were formed and maintained, hosting sociable events like church suppers or big family dinners, Altschwager added. This gave room for the unique dish to endure.

“They became a representation of the larger culture that had been left behind and a way to preserve it,” Altschwager said. “You may not speak the language, you may not wear the clothes, you may not have the politics, but that food, that memory, that tradition is a tie to where you came from.”

Milwaukee historian John Gurda agreed with Altschwager that cannibal sandwiches originated from German immigrants.

“It's pretty natural that it would come along with beer and bratwurst,” he said.

Celebrating a piece of history

Today, the sandwich is seen as a staple at family gatherings, holidays, weddings and more.

“It really wasn't a choice. It was an expectation,” he said. “You just wouldn’t have considered having a wedding reception without cannibal sandwiches.”

Altschwager said when people decide to make cannibal sandwiches, they’re recreating somebody’s history. That’s why so many Wisconsinites hold onto it.

“We want to maintain the tradition,” she said, “and we want to give our kids the holidays that we remember.”

And, yes, cannibal sandwiches are known for being a little "out there." But most dishes that are an expression of culture are funky or elaborate — outliers, Altschwager said.

“It's not something that you have every Wednesday night for dinner,” she said.

Often a story or memory comes with it, such as remembering the first time you tried one or that joke grandpa used to make, Altschwager said.

“That’s the magic for me with these foods. It's less about the food and more about the space we create when we serve those foods,” she said.

While Gurda said he thinks the popularity of the sandwich has waned as consumers become more food-conscious, Scott Podd said it’s growing in popularity.

Podd is part owner of Ray’s Butcher Shoppe, at 4640 W. Loomis Road in Greenfield. The shop has been in the Milwaukee area since 1977.

Even though they’ve always been busy, Podd said they do more orders now than they ever have, even during a normal weekday. He said the shop gets at least one customer a day who wants ground round for cannibal sandwiches.

Podd said the holidays — specifically, during late December — is the shop's busiest time of year for ground round.

“We sell thousands of pounds around the holidays,” he said.

But Podd said he doesn’t know why it’s so popular.

“Maybe because it goes good with a cocktail or beer,” he said.

Or maybe it’s just a part of tradition.

 

Fairwillows

Where I am supposed to be.
No thank you. My favorite niece however has eaten raw hamburger since she was old enough to chew. I gag thinking about it!
 

ioujc

MARANTHA!! Even so, come LORD JESUS!!!
HMMMMM!!
I love my meat very rare, but the pictured meat is a good bit TOO RAW for me!!

I like it so both sides are litely seared, but the inside is definitely still red and it bleeds a good bit. PERFECTION is if you can do that, getting the center warm, BUT NOT browned or any color change!!
 

patriotgal

Veteran Member
My grandma used to eat raw hamburger all the time. The grands still do. After 30 years of home grown beef, the smell of most groc store beef is yuck. Can't eat Sonic burgers because the cooked patties smell rotted to me.
 

greysage

On The Level
In the 1970's as a young boy, one of my neighbors ate raw ground beef and cows tongue.

I can see, feel, and smell a distinct difference between the ground beef my step-cousin raises in the hills of New England versus grocery store ground beef of any kind.
With my cousin's local grass fed and grazed beef, I can just use a little hot water and a dab of soap to clean my hands after handling or making patties. Only take several seconds to get my hands clean.
Washing my hands with grocery store ground beef requires a lot of running hot water, soap, and scrubbing. It's way greasier and slimier than the homegrown.

Anyway, I could see giving the fresh homegrown beef a try, but not the grocery store.
 

Loretta Van Riet

Trying to hang out with the cool kids.
Red Baron... my father delighted in this dish. He would wait while the local butcher ground the round steak. Take it home and add the onions. But for the life of me I can't remember the German name for it.

And he would clear a room opening his Limburger.
 

Red Baron

Paleo-Conservative
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Thank you. It was a good memory. My father was always so happy eating this.
When I lived at home, my father and I both worked night shift. We both came home at around the same time.

Waiting outside the door for us was our little feral black cat called Felix who would stop by every other night or so.

All three of us would sit around the dining room table and have a snack. Felix liked the raw beef as much as dad and I.
 

dawgofwar10

Veteran Member
HMMMMM!!
I love my meat very rare, but the pictured meat is a good bit TOO RAW for me!!

I like it so both sides are litely seared, but the inside is definitely still red and it bleeds a good bit. PERFECTION is if you can do that, getting the center warm, BUT NOT browned or any color change!!
Used to like it that way as well, grab it by the horns and once across the griddle. In my older age I have found that a steak panned fried on a very hot skillet for about a minute to a minute and half on both sides to sear. Then place on the grill with low heat and cook it until just below med-rare. Let it set for 5 minutes and enjoy. Much more tender and tastier IMHO and you know what they say about opions.

P.S. I do not season the steak until it gets moved over to the grill.
 
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