Chapter 207: Aug 21 - Gdansk, Poland
Well, after six hours on a train and most of the remainder of the day on a bus yesterday, all the walking I did with the students today in Gdansk, Poland was both welcome and tiring.
The tour guide met us on Swietojanska Street before heading to Kosciuszki Square, famous for it water fountain and all of the restaurants in the area. It is also just a few steps to what passes for a beach in the city – nothing like Florida beaches – and to the harbor. While at the harbor we took a short walk through Dar Pomorza - Oddzial Centralnego Muzeum Morskiego. That’s pretty much a mouthful also known as the Gift of Pomerania called the White Frigate, that has been associated with Gdansk since 1929. Over thirteen thousand maritime school were trained on her, encompassing 51 years, 102 school cruises, and a half million sea miles.
Another ship we saw was the ORP "Blyskawica," a Polish destroyer of the Grom class that served during WW2. It is the only ship of the Polish Navy awarded with the Virtuti Militari order. From there we walked down the beaches – Gdansk Beach and Sopot Beach – to reach Sopot Pier, the longest wooden pier in Europe, at 515.5 meters. It was a good picture spot because of the great view of whole shore. While we were I the Sopot district we also walked down the main street. It was charming during the day but we were told at night it could become very rowdy as it was the nightlife hub of the city.
Our next stop was the famous Crooked House of Sopot. Urp. That was my so-called cast iron stomach’s reaction to the strange architecture. I kept hearing it called “unique.” It reminded me of a cross between a Dr. Seuss illustration, a melting building, and something someone tried to draw while they were intoxicated. It actually isn’t a house you live in but a commercial structure that holds a café and a couple of business offices. My word, it gave me a headache just looking at it. The students liked it, I can’t imagine why. From the outside it wasn’t practical and that affected the usable space on the inside. Maybe I am just too practical … or not. Either/or I must admit I did not like it. One of the few such locations that I’ve ever been able to say that with certainty. I did not like it Sam I Am. Oh for Heaven’s sake, I must be over tired. Back to recording the day.
We stopped for a break and box lunch at Oliwa Park, known as the green jewel on the map of the region. The park has a long history. It was probably created in the Middle Ages, but its current architectural shape didn’t begin until the turn of 18th. From that point Oliwa Park gradually took on its modern look with the addition of a Chinese garden, English touches, a botanical garden, and a palm house. It is a hugely popular place for people to come and relax, picnic, and enjoy the many sights it has to offer. The students enjoyed the so-called Whispering Caves (aka Dionysus' Ears) that lie to the southeast of the Pałac Opatów.
The students cleaned up after themselves under the harsh eyes of some of the local retirement aged day-time users of the park. I don’t know what those people were expecting, but what they saw was not it. Our group has made a habit out of trying to leave our stopping points cleaner than we find them. The retirees seem to be expecting us to do the exact opposite. The scowls turn to disbelief – as if we were putting on a show for them – but the students either did not realize it or chose to ignore their attitude. Such is life and I think the students have learned that “it takes all kinds” to be an international truism. And in case I’ve never mentioned it, they have a running game about the litter they find … how many pieces they pick up, any unusual finds, etc. I can’t remember how it started but they never fail to tabulate the day’s findings in some way.
The next stop was the Archikatedra Oliwska. The Oliwa cathedral as it is known today was built in stages from the 13th to the 18th century. It is 107 meters long which makes it the longest Cistercian church in the world. The organ case is unique in the world and is considered one of the largest worldwide. I mention it because we were treated to an impressive concert by one of the student organists.
While walking through the Old Town area we stopped at the Amber Museum – there were some very impressive pieces – but we didn’t stay long as we were not the clientele that would buy their expensive trinkets. And then it was through the Upland Gate and onto Dluga Street, Old Town’s mainstreet. As with other such locations there were lots of things to admire; important monuments, musems and beautiful tenement houses. We made a quick stop at Dom Uphagena, an 18th century merchant house. The house was originally owned by Johann Uphagen in 1775 before becoming a museum in 1911.
Golden Gate (Zlota Brama), one of the most notable tourist attractions of the city, was our next point of interest. Inside the Gate there are shocking pictures which show how Gdansk looked after WW2. And then there was there was St. Mary's Church, Gdansk's most visible place of worship. Known more properly as St. Mary's Basilica, it is believed to be the largest brick church in the world. The interior vault supports 37 windows, over 300 tombstones and 31 chapels.
The second most important street in Old Town is Piwna Street. As the name "Piwna" (adjective of beer) suggests, once upon a time the most famous brewers lived here. Also located on the street is the house of Albert Forster, a Nazi politician and war criminal.
We then stopped at the Great Armory (Wielka Zbrojownia) for a quick tour. The Great Armory was built between 1600 and 1609 in the shadow of the medieval city walls. A working arsenal until the 1800's, the armory remains the finest example of Renaissance architecture in the city. Next came the Main City Hall, a spectacular building, and the seat of the city authorities. A photo stop at Neptune's Fountain (Fontanna Neptuna) which is reputedly the symbol of both the city of Gdańsk itself and its links with the sea was also on the itinerary.
Golden House was along our route and worth a picture stop. It was designed in 1618 and has the richest façade in the city. In the friezes between stories are 12 elaborately carved scenes interspersed with busts of famous historical figures, that include two Polish kings. The four statues waving from the balustrade at the top are Cleopatra, Oedipus, Achilles and Antigone.
Walking along Mariacka Street (ulica Mariacka) our guide showed us examples of the historical development of Gdańsk, with its characteristic perrons with the famous gargoyles, and facades of ornate houses formerly belonging to merchants and goldsmiths. We did manage a brief stop at the Motlawa River Embankment (Dlugie Pobrzeze). Our guide told us it is a place where you can feel the spirit of the old Hanseatic League. The Hanseatic League was a confederation of merchant guilds created to defend its members. It started small in what came to be known as Germany and quickly spread to cover much of the Baltic.
Our last three stops were churches. St. Bridget's Church was almost completely destroyed during WWII. It was rebuilt in 1973, based on original designs dating from 1394-1420. Inside the church there is a wonderful amber altar that we were allowed to photograph so long as we didn’t use flashes. St. Catherine's Church is the oldest existing church in the Old Town, and in the whole of Gdansk, under the patronage of St. Catherine of Alexandria from Egypt, containing the grave of the great Gdańsk astronomer Johannes Hevelius in its underground crypts. St. Nicholas Church is one of the oldest temples in Gdańsk, built near the end of the 12th Century, and was the only one which did not suffer damage during World War II and the city's liberation by the Red Army.
A bus met us for the short trip back to the ship. The students were reluctant because tomorrow is a sea day, but also because they do not know if they will be allowed off the ship in Russia. I didn’t have an answer for them and in truth have my own concerns about being in Russia. Estonia comes first so I encouraged them to simply take their time and learn what they could and enjoy it either way since no one knows what tomorrow might bring.
I got a lovely surprise after making sure the students and chaperones made it back onboard. Vit came wandering down the gangway and then smiled when he spotted me. “We have thirty minutes before all-aboard sounds.”
I knew what that meant. He wanted to look around in the duty-free shops. In all honesty I did too. I did some postcard shopping since I hadn’t been able to with the students; we were there to sightsee, not shop. In reality I think our guide simply thought the students wouldn’t have any money to spend or would take too long in the shops. In the duty-free area I did get postcards, but I also got salt. It may sound strange to some, but I was intrigued enough with the vendors wares that I indulged myself. There was a time when salt from the deep tunnels of a site just outside of Krakow would have been carted all across Europe, to the tables of kings and consorts in far-flung realms or so recited the shopkeeper. Today, however, after the end of commercial mining in these parts back in 1996, it’s only available in regional stores. His was one such location and there were all sorts of claims about the salt’s quality. It wasn’t terribly expensive so yes, I got a large bag and will share it with my siblings as a stocking stuffer this holiday season and include a copy of the flyer I picked up.
Vit had his heart set on a bottle of Polish Mead. Mead is a traditional alcoholic drink resulting from the fermentation of honey. It has been manufactured and consumed in Poland since the Middle Ages. The traditional division of mead is półtorak (two parts honey to one part water, plus flavorings), dwójniak (one part honey to one part water, plus flavorings), trójniak (has an alcohol content of 13 to 15 percent) and czwórniak (with an alcohol content of 9 to 12 percent). Various bouquets of honey are obtained by the juice of what is added to the honey such as fruit juice (fruit honey) or spices (honey and spice or herb). Traditional ingredients used are: hops, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, pepper, juniper, vanilla, rose petals, mint leaves, almonds, lemon and orange zest.
We were heading back to security when I was the one to spot the last purchase. It brought back a memory from one of my college roommates. Vit knows there is a story there but wasn’t able to get it out of me before he had to go on duty. Bison Grass Vodka. I’ll include the flowery description here: “No list of things you can only buy in Poland could possibly be complete without at least a mention of this iconic regional specialty. Made like normal vodka, the unique tipple is finished off with an infusion of herbs from the far-flung primeval forests of Białowieża.” Let me simply say this … stuff … is … strong. I will leave it at that and I will not be recording that college caper for future posterity. It is one of the few times my cast iron stomach has failed me.
Tomorrow is a sea day, and I am scheduled half a day to help continue packing up Mr. Baird’s office. I’m not sure if there will be translations but if so, I will be doing that as well. I’m off to bed. As I started out saying, I am tired. I am glad that tomorrow is a sea day and both Vit and I can sleep an extra hour before starting our days.
Well, after six hours on a train and most of the remainder of the day on a bus yesterday, all the walking I did with the students today in Gdansk, Poland was both welcome and tiring.
The tour guide met us on Swietojanska Street before heading to Kosciuszki Square, famous for it water fountain and all of the restaurants in the area. It is also just a few steps to what passes for a beach in the city – nothing like Florida beaches – and to the harbor. While at the harbor we took a short walk through Dar Pomorza - Oddzial Centralnego Muzeum Morskiego. That’s pretty much a mouthful also known as the Gift of Pomerania called the White Frigate, that has been associated with Gdansk since 1929. Over thirteen thousand maritime school were trained on her, encompassing 51 years, 102 school cruises, and a half million sea miles.
Another ship we saw was the ORP "Blyskawica," a Polish destroyer of the Grom class that served during WW2. It is the only ship of the Polish Navy awarded with the Virtuti Militari order. From there we walked down the beaches – Gdansk Beach and Sopot Beach – to reach Sopot Pier, the longest wooden pier in Europe, at 515.5 meters. It was a good picture spot because of the great view of whole shore. While we were I the Sopot district we also walked down the main street. It was charming during the day but we were told at night it could become very rowdy as it was the nightlife hub of the city.
Our next stop was the famous Crooked House of Sopot. Urp. That was my so-called cast iron stomach’s reaction to the strange architecture. I kept hearing it called “unique.” It reminded me of a cross between a Dr. Seuss illustration, a melting building, and something someone tried to draw while they were intoxicated. It actually isn’t a house you live in but a commercial structure that holds a café and a couple of business offices. My word, it gave me a headache just looking at it. The students liked it, I can’t imagine why. From the outside it wasn’t practical and that affected the usable space on the inside. Maybe I am just too practical … or not. Either/or I must admit I did not like it. One of the few such locations that I’ve ever been able to say that with certainty. I did not like it Sam I Am. Oh for Heaven’s sake, I must be over tired. Back to recording the day.
We stopped for a break and box lunch at Oliwa Park, known as the green jewel on the map of the region. The park has a long history. It was probably created in the Middle Ages, but its current architectural shape didn’t begin until the turn of 18th. From that point Oliwa Park gradually took on its modern look with the addition of a Chinese garden, English touches, a botanical garden, and a palm house. It is a hugely popular place for people to come and relax, picnic, and enjoy the many sights it has to offer. The students enjoyed the so-called Whispering Caves (aka Dionysus' Ears) that lie to the southeast of the Pałac Opatów.
The students cleaned up after themselves under the harsh eyes of some of the local retirement aged day-time users of the park. I don’t know what those people were expecting, but what they saw was not it. Our group has made a habit out of trying to leave our stopping points cleaner than we find them. The retirees seem to be expecting us to do the exact opposite. The scowls turn to disbelief – as if we were putting on a show for them – but the students either did not realize it or chose to ignore their attitude. Such is life and I think the students have learned that “it takes all kinds” to be an international truism. And in case I’ve never mentioned it, they have a running game about the litter they find … how many pieces they pick up, any unusual finds, etc. I can’t remember how it started but they never fail to tabulate the day’s findings in some way.
The next stop was the Archikatedra Oliwska. The Oliwa cathedral as it is known today was built in stages from the 13th to the 18th century. It is 107 meters long which makes it the longest Cistercian church in the world. The organ case is unique in the world and is considered one of the largest worldwide. I mention it because we were treated to an impressive concert by one of the student organists.
While walking through the Old Town area we stopped at the Amber Museum – there were some very impressive pieces – but we didn’t stay long as we were not the clientele that would buy their expensive trinkets. And then it was through the Upland Gate and onto Dluga Street, Old Town’s mainstreet. As with other such locations there were lots of things to admire; important monuments, musems and beautiful tenement houses. We made a quick stop at Dom Uphagena, an 18th century merchant house. The house was originally owned by Johann Uphagen in 1775 before becoming a museum in 1911.
Golden Gate (Zlota Brama), one of the most notable tourist attractions of the city, was our next point of interest. Inside the Gate there are shocking pictures which show how Gdansk looked after WW2. And then there was there was St. Mary's Church, Gdansk's most visible place of worship. Known more properly as St. Mary's Basilica, it is believed to be the largest brick church in the world. The interior vault supports 37 windows, over 300 tombstones and 31 chapels.
The second most important street in Old Town is Piwna Street. As the name "Piwna" (adjective of beer) suggests, once upon a time the most famous brewers lived here. Also located on the street is the house of Albert Forster, a Nazi politician and war criminal.
We then stopped at the Great Armory (Wielka Zbrojownia) for a quick tour. The Great Armory was built between 1600 and 1609 in the shadow of the medieval city walls. A working arsenal until the 1800's, the armory remains the finest example of Renaissance architecture in the city. Next came the Main City Hall, a spectacular building, and the seat of the city authorities. A photo stop at Neptune's Fountain (Fontanna Neptuna) which is reputedly the symbol of both the city of Gdańsk itself and its links with the sea was also on the itinerary.
Golden House was along our route and worth a picture stop. It was designed in 1618 and has the richest façade in the city. In the friezes between stories are 12 elaborately carved scenes interspersed with busts of famous historical figures, that include two Polish kings. The four statues waving from the balustrade at the top are Cleopatra, Oedipus, Achilles and Antigone.
Walking along Mariacka Street (ulica Mariacka) our guide showed us examples of the historical development of Gdańsk, with its characteristic perrons with the famous gargoyles, and facades of ornate houses formerly belonging to merchants and goldsmiths. We did manage a brief stop at the Motlawa River Embankment (Dlugie Pobrzeze). Our guide told us it is a place where you can feel the spirit of the old Hanseatic League. The Hanseatic League was a confederation of merchant guilds created to defend its members. It started small in what came to be known as Germany and quickly spread to cover much of the Baltic.
Our last three stops were churches. St. Bridget's Church was almost completely destroyed during WWII. It was rebuilt in 1973, based on original designs dating from 1394-1420. Inside the church there is a wonderful amber altar that we were allowed to photograph so long as we didn’t use flashes. St. Catherine's Church is the oldest existing church in the Old Town, and in the whole of Gdansk, under the patronage of St. Catherine of Alexandria from Egypt, containing the grave of the great Gdańsk astronomer Johannes Hevelius in its underground crypts. St. Nicholas Church is one of the oldest temples in Gdańsk, built near the end of the 12th Century, and was the only one which did not suffer damage during World War II and the city's liberation by the Red Army.
A bus met us for the short trip back to the ship. The students were reluctant because tomorrow is a sea day, but also because they do not know if they will be allowed off the ship in Russia. I didn’t have an answer for them and in truth have my own concerns about being in Russia. Estonia comes first so I encouraged them to simply take their time and learn what they could and enjoy it either way since no one knows what tomorrow might bring.
I got a lovely surprise after making sure the students and chaperones made it back onboard. Vit came wandering down the gangway and then smiled when he spotted me. “We have thirty minutes before all-aboard sounds.”
I knew what that meant. He wanted to look around in the duty-free shops. In all honesty I did too. I did some postcard shopping since I hadn’t been able to with the students; we were there to sightsee, not shop. In reality I think our guide simply thought the students wouldn’t have any money to spend or would take too long in the shops. In the duty-free area I did get postcards, but I also got salt. It may sound strange to some, but I was intrigued enough with the vendors wares that I indulged myself. There was a time when salt from the deep tunnels of a site just outside of Krakow would have been carted all across Europe, to the tables of kings and consorts in far-flung realms or so recited the shopkeeper. Today, however, after the end of commercial mining in these parts back in 1996, it’s only available in regional stores. His was one such location and there were all sorts of claims about the salt’s quality. It wasn’t terribly expensive so yes, I got a large bag and will share it with my siblings as a stocking stuffer this holiday season and include a copy of the flyer I picked up.
Vit had his heart set on a bottle of Polish Mead. Mead is a traditional alcoholic drink resulting from the fermentation of honey. It has been manufactured and consumed in Poland since the Middle Ages. The traditional division of mead is półtorak (two parts honey to one part water, plus flavorings), dwójniak (one part honey to one part water, plus flavorings), trójniak (has an alcohol content of 13 to 15 percent) and czwórniak (with an alcohol content of 9 to 12 percent). Various bouquets of honey are obtained by the juice of what is added to the honey such as fruit juice (fruit honey) or spices (honey and spice or herb). Traditional ingredients used are: hops, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, pepper, juniper, vanilla, rose petals, mint leaves, almonds, lemon and orange zest.
We were heading back to security when I was the one to spot the last purchase. It brought back a memory from one of my college roommates. Vit knows there is a story there but wasn’t able to get it out of me before he had to go on duty. Bison Grass Vodka. I’ll include the flowery description here: “No list of things you can only buy in Poland could possibly be complete without at least a mention of this iconic regional specialty. Made like normal vodka, the unique tipple is finished off with an infusion of herbs from the far-flung primeval forests of Białowieża.” Let me simply say this … stuff … is … strong. I will leave it at that and I will not be recording that college caper for future posterity. It is one of the few times my cast iron stomach has failed me.
Tomorrow is a sea day, and I am scheduled half a day to help continue packing up Mr. Baird’s office. I’m not sure if there will be translations but if so, I will be doing that as well. I’m off to bed. As I started out saying, I am tired. I am glad that tomorrow is a sea day and both Vit and I can sleep an extra hour before starting our days.