Chapter 101: April 24 – Petra (Aqaba), Jordan
Oh my word, what a day this has been. We docked early and I had Edda, Pei Shin, Jae, and Robin off the ship as soon as customs and immigration had cleared things for disembarkation. I was wired for sound and movies and I kept the lens covered until after I had spoken with the guide and driver. At first they were uncomfortable and I was prepared to give it up but after they placed a call, everything turned out fine so long as I avoided the faces of anyone we might run into and so long as we would not be selling the film.
“Oh definitely not. It is only for the parents of these students so that they will know what they are doing during the day. It is a bit like having extra chaperones.” Not the entire truth, but not precisely a lie either. But it fit so neatly into his worldview that it was easy for him to accept.
Once that was out of the way we took a small van and drove approximately an hour to Wadi Rum, one of the most impressive of desert landscapes in the world, or so our guide assured us. We were only there fifteen minutes when we met our new driver for the remainder of the day, an English-speaking Bedouin. He quickly loaded us into a 4x4 jeep for a tour of Wadi Rum where we followed in the footsteps of Lawrence of Arabia, climbing sand dunes and rock bridges. The sights we saw included Nabatean Temple, Lawrence Spring, Sand Dunes, Khazali Canyon, Little Bridge, Um Frouth Rock Bridge, Lawrence House, Burdah Rock Bridge and Arch and several more that I just can’t bring to mind right now as I am so tired.
We also enjoyed what was called a Bedouin Lunch. Cute. It was basically a box-lunch to go with a one-hour camel ride. Did I say cute? I certainly got a lot of shots of that activity as well as a bit of a monologue on what I knew of the importance that camel travel still played in the region. The heat of the day was becoming oppressive, and it was time to get back into the air-conditioned van and head on down the road. Wadi Al Mujib – the lowest nature reserve in the world – allowed us to further admire the spectacular scenery that stretches along the east coast of the Dead Sea. Our guide pointed out the marvels of what we were seeing, the views of the deep Wadi Mujib gorge. Along the way we also admired the Mujib Biosphere Reserve, where we saw the natural rock formation supposed to represent Lot's wife. From there we descended 1,407 feet (429 meters) below sea level to the Dead Sea. It is so salty that nothing can live in it and shimmers against the background of the desert. It is the lowest point on earth. Located in the Jordan Valley southeast of Amman, it is one of the world’s most spectacular natural landscapes and the richest source of natural salt.
Yes, the female students and I wore our “Islam-friendly swimming costumes” but I will admit that at the time we had trouble not giggling rudely. Nothing would stay in the water properly, or properly as we thought it should. We enjoyed the unique experience of bobbing on the super-salty waters – they're so rich in salt and minerals that it's almost impossible to sink. Grover opted to stay on land so I could go into the water with the students. He did allow a bit later that he was willing to test the therapeutic mud and dense white clay that is supposed to be so good for your skin. I found out that Grover had really bad skin as a teenager and had been teased without mercy. He’d tried everything and was quite the aficionado of men’s skin care products. However, I was sworn to secrecy or he promised to get in touch with Dev and get some of my old school pictures. Shudder. Nope. His secret is safe with me. The mineral concentration in the mud is used for therapeutic and beauty treatments. Queen Cleopatra and the Queen of Sheba both were said to have known the value of the site and used it.
I suppose I should explain that the Dead “Sea” isn’t a sea at all but a landlocked lake. Almost all of the water for the Dead Sea comes from the Jordan River. And I must admit that the water has a completely different and unique feel to it. It is hard to describe. The water feels … heavy. And smooth. Nearly a gel rather than a body of water. But itchy as well due to its high salt content. As for the area around the Dead Sea I was quite surprised to see how built up and modern it was. There was also an industrialized area down where the salt evaporation ponds are located. I wouldn’t call it a tourist trap, but it has certainly been commercialized. And speaking of commercialization, after we completed the assigned science experiments we climbed out, dried off and changed, and headed to what else … the place where we were expected to spread some economic cheer.
I’m afraid I made Grover a little uncomfortable as I used him as a front … a male front … so that there were fewer problems with vendors. Jae figured the game out and also played a leading male role for his sister and the other two girls. I could tell Edda was struggling not to roll her eyes and Pei Shin looked a little too sweet … which probably meant he was going to get it once they returned to their family cabin. Only Robin seemed to take things for what they were on the surface and have no problems with it.
Vit had expressed an interest in obtaining some things he had heard could be bought at the bazaars near our location. First, of course, was Dead sea mud. I’m not sure what to make of it myself. I’m not one to go to a spa or some other bit of nonsense but I have taken a mud bath before and quite enjoyed it if you want to know the truth. While the “mineral mud” wasn’t cheap, it was less expensive than similar products I’ve seen in the States. As a lark I got a container for Christine and intend to tell her to smear it on Derrick next time he gets irritating. It should make for a bit of fun. I have to admit that Vit and I had a bit of fun tonight. He missed another one of those party meetings and I can’t say that either one of us cared any at all.
Turkish coffee will never be my favorite beverage, but it certainly has quite a kick to it. Vit enjoys it and I also brought a bit back to leave in Mr. Baird’s office for Henry and Barney on those certain days. On the other hand, I might be better off making everything decaf.
Treats that were sampled include baklava and barazak cookies (sesame cookies). I bought a selection of Arabic spices and I noted with interest that Robin did as well. Apparently she’d overheard her father speaking of the shortages appearing back in their home and she wanted to try and help “Cookie” who was her former Nanny turned housekeeper for their family. A thoughtful girl. Intellectually she may not be as bright as the other three, but she’s no slouch either and certainly an appreciated member of the Club. Occasionally she exhibits a deeper understanding of some concepts.
I was tempted to buy Kohl eyeliner, but I had sufficient make up. Pei Shin on the other hand did buy some and explained that she already wore eyeliner on most days to keep her eyes from disappearing into her face.
“Nonsense, you’re lovely.”
“Thank you Mrs. D but Mum says that it’s all right for me to wear it if it makes me feel better … and it does … just so long as I’m not using it as a crutch and getting as heavy handed as some of the girls do.”
I’m afraid Jae chose that moment to make some regrettable comment that only a brother can, only realizing too late what a hole he was digging. So long as they save it until they return to their cabin I’ll let them fight it out. On the other hand it might not be a bad idea to ask Aiden to give the poor boy some brotherly advice. He’ll certainly live longer if he heeds it.
I’m afraid I did buy something rather silly today. It … is a painted ostrich egg. I know. I know. But when I spied the one painted like a traditional Ukrainian Easter egg I simply … okay, maybe I could have resisted but didn’t. I managed to get it safely back to our cabin and set it up on the shelf that we have put a few mementos on. Vit walked in and when he spotted it, looked at me then at the egg and then at me again.
“Too much?”
“Er … do you like it Khokana?”
“I do. But if you don’t I’ll …”
“Nii. Er … I am sure it will … grow on me.” Then he laughed when I hugged him and said thank you.
“It reminded me of the Pysanka eggs that we made our first year together.” I sighed. “I hope they don’t get crushed while in storage.”
Vit ran his finger around my ear. “Nii. You packed them in enough tissue and then in what is it you called that container?”
“Tupperware.” I sighed. “Still …”
“We will make them again.”
I gave him a hug and he got that strange look on his face that I’ve been noticing lately. I’d ask him what it means but I’m not sure he even realizes he is making it. And maybe I don’t want to know what it means.
I volunteered to press his uniform shirt and he asked instead if I would share the shower with him. That’s when things got a little silly with the mud and he decided that he would rather work on reports here in the cabin than go to the “meeting” he’d been invited to.
I think we can put the reports up shortly. We keep giving each other looks. Smiling. And then trying to get back to the stupid, endless reports. Oh who cares. I’m going to ask if he is ready for bed.
Oh my word, what a day this has been. We docked early and I had Edda, Pei Shin, Jae, and Robin off the ship as soon as customs and immigration had cleared things for disembarkation. I was wired for sound and movies and I kept the lens covered until after I had spoken with the guide and driver. At first they were uncomfortable and I was prepared to give it up but after they placed a call, everything turned out fine so long as I avoided the faces of anyone we might run into and so long as we would not be selling the film.
“Oh definitely not. It is only for the parents of these students so that they will know what they are doing during the day. It is a bit like having extra chaperones.” Not the entire truth, but not precisely a lie either. But it fit so neatly into his worldview that it was easy for him to accept.
Once that was out of the way we took a small van and drove approximately an hour to Wadi Rum, one of the most impressive of desert landscapes in the world, or so our guide assured us. We were only there fifteen minutes when we met our new driver for the remainder of the day, an English-speaking Bedouin. He quickly loaded us into a 4x4 jeep for a tour of Wadi Rum where we followed in the footsteps of Lawrence of Arabia, climbing sand dunes and rock bridges. The sights we saw included Nabatean Temple, Lawrence Spring, Sand Dunes, Khazali Canyon, Little Bridge, Um Frouth Rock Bridge, Lawrence House, Burdah Rock Bridge and Arch and several more that I just can’t bring to mind right now as I am so tired.
We also enjoyed what was called a Bedouin Lunch. Cute. It was basically a box-lunch to go with a one-hour camel ride. Did I say cute? I certainly got a lot of shots of that activity as well as a bit of a monologue on what I knew of the importance that camel travel still played in the region. The heat of the day was becoming oppressive, and it was time to get back into the air-conditioned van and head on down the road. Wadi Al Mujib – the lowest nature reserve in the world – allowed us to further admire the spectacular scenery that stretches along the east coast of the Dead Sea. Our guide pointed out the marvels of what we were seeing, the views of the deep Wadi Mujib gorge. Along the way we also admired the Mujib Biosphere Reserve, where we saw the natural rock formation supposed to represent Lot's wife. From there we descended 1,407 feet (429 meters) below sea level to the Dead Sea. It is so salty that nothing can live in it and shimmers against the background of the desert. It is the lowest point on earth. Located in the Jordan Valley southeast of Amman, it is one of the world’s most spectacular natural landscapes and the richest source of natural salt.
Yes, the female students and I wore our “Islam-friendly swimming costumes” but I will admit that at the time we had trouble not giggling rudely. Nothing would stay in the water properly, or properly as we thought it should. We enjoyed the unique experience of bobbing on the super-salty waters – they're so rich in salt and minerals that it's almost impossible to sink. Grover opted to stay on land so I could go into the water with the students. He did allow a bit later that he was willing to test the therapeutic mud and dense white clay that is supposed to be so good for your skin. I found out that Grover had really bad skin as a teenager and had been teased without mercy. He’d tried everything and was quite the aficionado of men’s skin care products. However, I was sworn to secrecy or he promised to get in touch with Dev and get some of my old school pictures. Shudder. Nope. His secret is safe with me. The mineral concentration in the mud is used for therapeutic and beauty treatments. Queen Cleopatra and the Queen of Sheba both were said to have known the value of the site and used it.
I suppose I should explain that the Dead “Sea” isn’t a sea at all but a landlocked lake. Almost all of the water for the Dead Sea comes from the Jordan River. And I must admit that the water has a completely different and unique feel to it. It is hard to describe. The water feels … heavy. And smooth. Nearly a gel rather than a body of water. But itchy as well due to its high salt content. As for the area around the Dead Sea I was quite surprised to see how built up and modern it was. There was also an industrialized area down where the salt evaporation ponds are located. I wouldn’t call it a tourist trap, but it has certainly been commercialized. And speaking of commercialization, after we completed the assigned science experiments we climbed out, dried off and changed, and headed to what else … the place where we were expected to spread some economic cheer.
I’m afraid I made Grover a little uncomfortable as I used him as a front … a male front … so that there were fewer problems with vendors. Jae figured the game out and also played a leading male role for his sister and the other two girls. I could tell Edda was struggling not to roll her eyes and Pei Shin looked a little too sweet … which probably meant he was going to get it once they returned to their family cabin. Only Robin seemed to take things for what they were on the surface and have no problems with it.
Vit had expressed an interest in obtaining some things he had heard could be bought at the bazaars near our location. First, of course, was Dead sea mud. I’m not sure what to make of it myself. I’m not one to go to a spa or some other bit of nonsense but I have taken a mud bath before and quite enjoyed it if you want to know the truth. While the “mineral mud” wasn’t cheap, it was less expensive than similar products I’ve seen in the States. As a lark I got a container for Christine and intend to tell her to smear it on Derrick next time he gets irritating. It should make for a bit of fun. I have to admit that Vit and I had a bit of fun tonight. He missed another one of those party meetings and I can’t say that either one of us cared any at all.
Turkish coffee will never be my favorite beverage, but it certainly has quite a kick to it. Vit enjoys it and I also brought a bit back to leave in Mr. Baird’s office for Henry and Barney on those certain days. On the other hand, I might be better off making everything decaf.
Treats that were sampled include baklava and barazak cookies (sesame cookies). I bought a selection of Arabic spices and I noted with interest that Robin did as well. Apparently she’d overheard her father speaking of the shortages appearing back in their home and she wanted to try and help “Cookie” who was her former Nanny turned housekeeper for their family. A thoughtful girl. Intellectually she may not be as bright as the other three, but she’s no slouch either and certainly an appreciated member of the Club. Occasionally she exhibits a deeper understanding of some concepts.
I was tempted to buy Kohl eyeliner, but I had sufficient make up. Pei Shin on the other hand did buy some and explained that she already wore eyeliner on most days to keep her eyes from disappearing into her face.
“Nonsense, you’re lovely.”
“Thank you Mrs. D but Mum says that it’s all right for me to wear it if it makes me feel better … and it does … just so long as I’m not using it as a crutch and getting as heavy handed as some of the girls do.”
I’m afraid Jae chose that moment to make some regrettable comment that only a brother can, only realizing too late what a hole he was digging. So long as they save it until they return to their cabin I’ll let them fight it out. On the other hand it might not be a bad idea to ask Aiden to give the poor boy some brotherly advice. He’ll certainly live longer if he heeds it.
I’m afraid I did buy something rather silly today. It … is a painted ostrich egg. I know. I know. But when I spied the one painted like a traditional Ukrainian Easter egg I simply … okay, maybe I could have resisted but didn’t. I managed to get it safely back to our cabin and set it up on the shelf that we have put a few mementos on. Vit walked in and when he spotted it, looked at me then at the egg and then at me again.
“Too much?”
“Er … do you like it Khokana?”
“I do. But if you don’t I’ll …”
“Nii. Er … I am sure it will … grow on me.” Then he laughed when I hugged him and said thank you.
“It reminded me of the Pysanka eggs that we made our first year together.” I sighed. “I hope they don’t get crushed while in storage.”
Vit ran his finger around my ear. “Nii. You packed them in enough tissue and then in what is it you called that container?”
“Tupperware.” I sighed. “Still …”
“We will make them again.”
I gave him a hug and he got that strange look on his face that I’ve been noticing lately. I’d ask him what it means but I’m not sure he even realizes he is making it. And maybe I don’t want to know what it means.
I volunteered to press his uniform shirt and he asked instead if I would share the shower with him. That’s when things got a little silly with the mud and he decided that he would rather work on reports here in the cabin than go to the “meeting” he’d been invited to.
I think we can put the reports up shortly. We keep giving each other looks. Smiling. And then trying to get back to the stupid, endless reports. Oh who cares. I’m going to ask if he is ready for bed.