Compost The Need For Fertilizer With Compost.

China Connection

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The Need For Fertilizer With Compost.


I am only posting this because I feel there is a need to get some mineral fertilizer into your garden storage shed while you still can. With all your current problems that are escalating it will get harder to source fertilizer.

I have just been setting up some raised garden beds. I have been putting compost that has sat exposed to rain etc for two years into the beds. This compost looks like good soil but there are only a few weeds were growing on the top of the heap that has stood for two years. I know that without fertilizer I will not get much of a crop growing in it..

After two years of sitting I am finding no worms in it. The fungi, bacteria and worms have eating all that was on offer and died off or moved.

Sadly the water holding ability of it is nowhere near that of coconut fiber. So I have added lots of coconut fiber to it to hold more water.

Rather than get another load of new compost I will buy a heap of coconut fiber to add as needed.
 

China Connection

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g5 Benefits of Coconut Coir in Gardening

About 15 minutes long

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czWLku1giMI



Daisy Creek Farms with Jag Singh
497K subscribers



Coconut Coir is made from Coconut husks, which is the byproduct of coconut fruits. Coconut Coir is 100% organic, odorless, and pleasant to handle. Coconut Coir makes an Earth Friendly product because it is a Natural and Renewable Resource. Coconut Coir is excellent at water retention, growing seedlings, creating potting mix, pest resistant, and to use as bedding in Worm Bins.
 

Chicken Mama

Veteran Member
Have you been turning the pile? Just letting it sit for two years is not how the compost process works, and it won't get hot enough.
 

China Connection

TB Fanatic
All turning does is speed up the process of oxidation. It does not add anything.


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6 Mistakes You’re Making With Your Compost Pile
Here's how to make your garden's "black gold" better than ever.

BY REBECCA STRAUS
Sep 6, 2018

Gardening

FRANCOIS_TGETTY IMAGES
Truly messing up your compost is hard to do. Throw organic matter in a pile outdoors and it will break down eventually, even if you never look at it again. "There’s no right way to compost," says Rick Carr, compost expert at the Rodale Institute’s organic farm. "I’ll never tell someone they’re composting wrong, or insist that a 75-year-old needs to go out and turn her compost pile twice a year with a pitchfork'
But if you want to save yourself some trouble with pests while making compost that’s richer in nutrients and easier to maintain, Carr is your go-to guy. Here's what he says people commonly do that can cause composting problems, and how to fix it.
1. You don’t cover up food scraps.
compost scraps

EVAN LORNE/SHUTTERSTOCK
There are three important reasons to cover up food scraps in your pile: 1) so it doesn’t get smelly, 2) so the raccoons and other critters don’t come knocking, and 3) to ensure you maintain a good balance of green and brown material.
Carr uses a lasagna-style method in his own compost pile: He starts with a layer of dried leaves on the bottom and creates a nest in the middle for his food waste. Then he covers the food waste with another thick layer of brown material, making sure none of the food waste is peeking through. He likes to keep his kitchen scraps in a five-gallon bucket with a tight lid until he has enough for a complete lasagna layer.
2. There’s not enough diversity.
apples in compost

JURATEBUIVIENE/SHUTTERSTOCK
"If you put a lot of the same thing in your compost, it will be uniform in nutrients and microbes," Carr explains. So even though you’ll eventually end up with beautiful black soil if you only ever add lettuce stems, potato peels, and yard waste to your pile, it won’t have the diversity of nutrients and good bacteria that really makes compost valuable in the garden. Carr says you can compost just about any scraps that come out of your kitchen, which has the double benefit of diverting food waste from landfills and giving you a superior final product all at once. "The only things that should never go in your compost pile are glass, metal, styrofoam, and plastic," he says.
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How to Build the Ultimate Compost Bin

Carr also adds that you absolutely can compost meat scraps (he does), though doing so is somewhat controversial. The reason people often warn against composting meat is that it can attract vermin and may not decompose quickly and safely in a backyard pile that isn’t hot enough to kill off pathogens. On the flip side, fish and meat are rich in nutrients that make great fertilizer. Beginners should stick with plant waste until they feel they’ve mastered the composting process.
3. You chop everything into tiny pieces.
compost

NUMBER1411/SHUTTERSTOCK
Diversity matters when it comes to size, too. Some people think that the more you chop up your food and yard waste, the better results you’ll have with your compost. While it’s true that cutting things up can accelerate decomposition, too much chopping can lead to a soupy, soggy pile. That’s because if you cut everything into tiny pieces, your pile will lack pore spaces for air, and air is crucial to the decomposition process.
Carr uses the example of an apple: Cutting it into quarters would be beneficial, but putting it in a blender would hurt your compost as well as waste of energy. On a bigger scale, there’s really no reason to mulch your leaves.
4. You don’t keep enough leaves on hand.
pile of leaves

UROŠ MEDVED/SHUTTERSTOCK
After you rake your leaves this fall, don’t toss them in the incinerator or bag them for the trash collector. Since you need lots of brown leaves for layering in your compost pile throughout the year, Carr advises saving them up if you have the space. He packs his in several large metal trash cans, or you could also put them in a few trash bags inside your shed. This way you’ll always have enough brown waste to cover up your food scraps during summer months. If you run out of leaves, Carr says you can purchase a bale of straw instead.
5. You add too much grass.
grass in the compost pile

C12/SHUTTERSTOCK
Composting may seem like the organic solution to unwanted grass clippings, but Carr says they’re actually not that beneficial to your pile. "Clumps of grass form mats that block the airflow in your pile, which can make it dense and soggy," he explains.
Grass is also high in nitrogen, which can throw off the balance of your pile and make things stinky. If you really want to put grass in your pile, mix it with dry leaves as you’re adding it. But really, you’re much better off just leaving clippings where they fall so they can help fertilize your lawn.
6. You pile too much compost on your garden.
wheelbarrow of compost

SVETLANA CHERRUTY/SHUTTERSTOCK
When it comes to actually using your finished compost, there can be a tendency to go overboard. For starting seeds, you should never use 100% compost because it holds too much water and has a high mineral salt content, which prevents seeds from germinating. Carr says you can amend your potting mix with 25 to 50% compost, but no more. As for your raised beds, he recommends mixing up to two inches of compost into your soil yearly. If the soil is well established, you may only need one inch of compost.

 

China Connection

TB Fanatic
Hot composting versus cold composting

Most gardeners envisage a compost heap as a hot steamy affair that breaks down within a matter of weeks leaving a rich brown organic material that can be dug into the soil to not only improve the soil’s nutrient levels but also help to increase its water and nutrient storage capacity. The reality, however, for the vast majority of gardeners is that their heap does not heat up and can sometimes become a slimy, stinking mess. The issue is to understand the difference between hot and cold composting.
Cold composting is a natural process that occurs in the layer of organic matter that forms on the soil surface in a natural forest environment. Various beneficial micro-organisms very gradually decompose the dead leaves, bark etc. When we bury or make small piles of organic waste in our gardens the same cool composting process occurs and is further enhanced by the activity of earthworms that are naturally attracted to feed on whatever organic matter they can find. From a gardener’s point of view cold composting is a very effective way of recycling organic materials to enrich their soil. There are a couple of situations, however, where cold composting is not ideal. Firstly where there are weeds or plant diseases present in the material to be composted. These problems will happily survive the cold composting and come back to haunt you. The easiest solution here is to either create a hot compost heap or put the offending material into a green waste bin where it will find its way into an industrial size compost heap at a local rubbish tip. Meat and other moist kitchen scraps can also create problems in cold compost heaps by creating a pile that is too moist and thereby becomes anaerobic (lacking in oxygen) and smells of byproducts like rotten egg gas (hydrogen sulphide). Again hot compost heaps and green waste bins are a solution. For kitchen scraps another very handy alternative is too simply bury them in a fallow soil bed where they will be broken down by earthworms.
Magic pudding compost bin
Cold composting can also happen in heaps. I have a timber cold compost bin in operation with flaps at the base through which the finished cold compost is removed every few weeks while the top of the heap is replenished constantly with kitchen scraps, lawn clippings etc. The key to a cold compost bin is aeration which can be provided through gaps in the structure of the bin. Stirring up the top layers with a fork will also help to get extra air in. An even better tool to get down deeper for aeration is a Compost Mate, which is shaped like a giant corkscrew, pictured below. For a demonstration on how it works, check out Angus’s video>>>

Unlike a hot compost heap, a cold heap can be of any volume as it does not need to reach a critical mass to be a good environment for the particular micro-organisms that inhabit it. Cold composting can also be done in a dark dank corner of the garden behind a shed or whatever, making better use of garden space.
Hot composting occurs when several conditions are in place so that beneficial micro-organisms build up rapidly inside the heap and generate a lot of heat due to their high population levels and the resulting high rates of respiration occurring. Temperatures can build to as high as 75 degrees C. due to the action of thermophilic (heat loving) microbes. This is in direct contrast to the different suite of microbes that inhabit a cold compost heap. The high temps in a hot heap are enough to kill virtually any weed as well as plant pathogens such as black spot on rose leaves and this as well as the speed to completion are the great advantages of a hot heap. The conditions necessary for hot composting to occur are:
• critical mass – the heap needs to be at least a cubic metre in volume. Materials may need to be stockpiled to get sufficient volume together at once.
• an appropriate balance of nutrients- there needs to be sufficient nutrients in the heap to feed the micro-organisms. This can be provided by regular layers of manure or kitchen scraps alternating with dry high carbon materials such as dead leaves, shredded paper etc
• appropriate levels of oxygen – this can be provided by regularly turning the heap ie once a week with a pitch fork or special corkscrew action tool made for this job. A little trick is the use of a plastic PVC pipe drilled with lots of holes that is inserted into the heap to improve oxygen flow to the centre to lessen or eliminate the need for turning.
• Appropriate moisture levels – you should be just able to squeeze a few drops of moisture from a handful of the material from the heap. If there is more water the heap becomes anaerobic and favours ‘bad’ microbes, any less water and the growth of the ‘good’ aerobic microbes cannot continue at the levels needed for good heat build up.
• Layering the heap with alternate materials that are high in nutrients with layers such as shredded paper, corrugated cardboard, bark, dead leaves that are low in nutrients also gives a balance between nitrogen and carbon. Too much of either one leads to problems.

 

West

Senior
We do mix a bunch of leaves into our compost piles and bins. From many different kinds of trees. The chickens do turn the piles over eventually, or flatten it out. Also the goats seem play in the piles too. Location, location..

:D
 

China Connection

TB Fanatic
I mainly compost wood chip. It holds good structure. I will bury anything in the garden directly the same as naturally happens.

I use rock dusts plus a good hydroponic dry salt mix to get minerals into the mix. Seaweed etc for trace minerals. I throw some molasses in with nitrogen to get bacterial growth.

I am finding that my worms can eat through fresh Azolla. I am setting up to grow Kangkong (Water spinach) over the Summer period. Main crop will be beans but...
 
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