Solutions to refrigeration when electricity is scarce

kanuck57

Membership Revoked
Solutions to refrigeration when electricity is scarce
by Michael Hackleman

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/hackleman56.html


Refrigeration alternatives

I have gotten so caught up in the various ways of perfecting refrigeration that I have failed to realize that one of the best schemes is to reduce the need for it by pursuing alternatives. Anybody who uses a refrigerator seldom considers what mankind did before the refrigerator was developed. Some may remember cutting ice from lakes, storing it in well-insulated buildings, and the daily task of transferring small chunks to the “icebox” in the house. But let’s go back still further in time.

In the pre-icebox era, how was food preserved? Basically, people used one or more of four techniques: root-cellaring, canning, dehydration, or controlled supply. Let’s look at them one at a time.

Build and use a root cellar.
The secret to the root cellar is that it’s tucked down into the midst of the biggest thermal flywheel we know—the earth. In a 12-hour span, air temperatures may vary as much as 100 degrees F above ground. Several feet into the earth, however, there may not occur a one-degree change. Season to season, the same in-earth spot may vary by only 10-20 degrees F.

Traditionally, root cellars are built under the house. This provides easy access and cuts down on the cost of separate construction. Another important aspect of this design is that the house itself acts as a buffer against surface-side temperature fluctuations. One built separately from a house must be snuggled down a little further in the ground to avoid the influence of temperature variations at the cellar’s weakest boundary—it’s ceiling and entrance.

What kinds of food can be stored in a root cellar? Garden produce and grains. Vegetables have a natural protection against weather and, when ripe, may be kept for exceptionally long periods merely by keeping them cool. Most types of grain—stored in air-tight, air-evacuated (vacuum or gas-filled) containers, and kept from temperature extremes and direct sunlight—will keep almost indefinitely. It may appear that a root cellar’s main function is to protect food from the ravages of summer heat, but this isn’t true. Vegetables are just as susceptible to damage by severe cold or freezing. So, the root cellar’s moderating influence is also essential during winter months.

Grain and vegetables constitute less than 50% of the average person’s daily diet. Also, the root cellar may prove inadequate in light of the cooler temperatures required to preserve other foods—dairy and poultry products, meats, and frozen vegetables. Nevertheless, the root cellar keeps vegetables and grains out of the refrigerator and, in the process, cuts down the size of a unit needed to handle perishables.

27. Learn canning for foodstuffs.
Canning involves all types of foods but focuses principally on fruits and vegetables; preserves, pickles, jams and jellies are the end product. However, meat, poultry, and seafood can also be canned. Canning requires no energy in storing the finished product, but it will require a strong heat source and the energy of your own labor to prepare. By comparison, freezing foods predominates now for its obvious advantage in convenience, but its main disadvantage is high energy consumption for the duration of the storage.

Improper processing when canning produces a toxin which causes botulism poisoning. It’s the fear of this possibility which turns prospective canners away from this food preservation technique. This is both unreasonable and unfortunate. When tried-and-proven recipes are used and other processes are followed for jar preparation, there is no danger. Backwoods Home Magazine has had a number of articles on canning in past issues.

28. Dehydrate your food.
Another food preservation technique is dehydration. Involving low-temperature heat, freezing temperatures, or vacuum, this process drives water from foods. As a result, the final product is sealed against the normal pace of decomposition. The final product can be eaten “as is,” or reconstituted with water.

The most widely-known example of food dehydration is beef jerky. Although the process is carried out in gas or electric ovens nowadays, the original version involved stretching the thin strips of meat out on sun-baked rocks. In addition to the preparation, the cook had to stick around to fend off animals, birds, flies, and other insects lured by the delicious scent.

A person serious about using this food preservation technique could easily build a solar dryer for unattended drying of bulk quantities of fruit, produce, and meat. The popularity and high cost of dried fruits and meats should be indication enough of what you could do with any surplus dried foods from this inexpensive process.

29. Control and “pace” your food supply.
A controlled supply means that you keep your food alive—on the hoof or on the vine—until you’re ready to use it. If it’s ripe, it’s ripe; if it’s not eaten or preserved, the food will rot, spoil, or become unpalatable. Therefore, in a controlled supply, one staggers the ripening or aging of food so that it comes due as frequently and as reliably as a trip to the store each week.

Meat supplied from domestic animals is another issue. Unlike the relative freedom we may enjoy in picking small or large quantities of vegetables, fruits, or nuts, with animals we’re stuck with irreversible “harvests.” What portion of it we don’t immediately consume must be preserved or suffer a loss to spoilage. It wasn’t long before raising rabbits for food got to me, and the experience nudged me just that much closer to being a vegetarian. It was the extra effort. When we finally got to the point where there was sufficient food coming from the gardens to maintain our rabbits without the outside purchase of feed, it was also easy to see that we were adding an unnecessary step. In the final analysis, then, the extra energy, water, and grain was too great to justify the meager return.

Last thoughts

A lot of ideas and techniques have been covered in the foregoing sections. While you catch your breath, may I suggest a plan for implementing some of these ideas?

* Seriously consider exactly what it is you want that requires refrigeration.
* Consider one primary and (optionally) one or more secondary power sources for refrigeration. No single source—or the equipment which converts it to useful form—is 100% reliable.
* What conversions, modifications, and replacements appeal to you? Which of these can you perform yourself? Do you have the time, energy, skills, and tools? What will the materials cost? If you need (or want) help, is it available? What will it cost? Is it worth it? Be honest with yourself.
* Are you willing to change some operator habits? Do you need to re-site the refrigerator?

Solid answers to these questions will make other options clearer and, hopefully, subsequent decisions easier to make.

(Michael Hackleman, P.O. Box 327, Willits, CA 95490, is the author of Better Use of Alternative Energy and At Home with Alternative Energy. Currently out of print, both are available at libraries.)

bhmheadline.gif
 

Chronicles

Membership Revoked
Another option is to buy a small electric freezer, and re-make the design, just enough so you can add about a 10 inchs of styrofoam insulation. The back or sometimes bottom are the areas where the heat exchange occurs on many models. That warm side or heat output area needs to be vented away or out of the place where the freezer is used. Then with all the newly added foam insulation and the use of the a back electric source such as 4 to 6, 80 watt solar panels and about 8 large batteries designed for charging and used in the solar power systems.

Then a person can produce ICE and keep foods frozen.

I am speaking about one of those small top chest freezers, and not a large style.
Also I am talking about a brand new unit that already uses far less power to run.
Also if you plan to use a 110volt style you will need to buy a matched inverter, not a big one that draws alot of power to be at the ready, but one large enough to do the job by a nice margin. 2000 watt or so. Would be a fair choice.

I noticed that these days refridgerators, seem to be way under insulated, so as to make them smaller. Not a good idea at all, better to make more room and use less power.
 

hitssquad

Inactive
-6F ice-house idea

Here's an idea I thought of a few months ago:

Superinsulated Monolithic Dome ice house. Ice Houses have a bad reputation for not really being that cold, but I figured that problem could be solved by salting the water put out to make ice.
http://sci-toys.com/scitoys/scitoys/thermo/ice_cream/ice_cream.html

Of course, this only works where you get cold winters (below -21.1 degrees Celsius (-5.98 degrees Fahrenheit)).

I also figure that other famous ice-house problems like drainage could be solved pretty easily through appropriate design. The plumbing might need to be stainless-steel though, if the ice is melting-off salt-water.
 

hillbilly

Membership Revoked
i built a huge pond 30 feet deep feeding from a spring from the bottle
it feels almost ice cold about 8 feet deep at the hottest times going to use that as refrigeration wshtf
 

hitssquad

Inactive
Hillbilly,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deep_lake_water_cooling

=-=
The first deep lake water cooling system was installed by the Enwave Energy Corporation in Toronto, Ontario. It draws water from Lake Ontario through tubes extending 5 km into the lake, reaching to a depth of 83 metres. The lake-bottom water is at 4 °C year-round even at the height of summer, when the surface water is warm. The cooler denser water remains near the bottom.
=-=
 

shane

Has No Life - Lives on TB
Couple other interesting tid-bits when considering refrigeration alternatives...

The temperature in most places in North America about 8-10' deep is constant and will always be at whatever your annual average air temperature for that location happens to be. This will hold true as long as it's dry ground and not into a water table.

Cold is simply the absence of heat, heat is the active player here, you are always dealing with keeping the heat 'out' rather than the cold 'in'. Radiant heat protection, rather than convective or conductive, can be more readily employed and more easily provide bigger gains than the other two. Though protection from all should be used.

From...
http://www.eagleshieldinsulation.com/articles/spinoff.html

"Over 40 years ago, NASA developed Radiant Barrier technology to protect astronauts in the Apollo Program from temperatures that ranged from 250°F above to 400°F below zero Fahrenheit. This feat in temperature control technology enabled the astronauts to work inside the Apollo Command Module wearing short-sleeve shirts, with temperatures similar to those of a regular business office. The Radiant Barrier has been applied to virtually all spacecraft since then, including unmanned spacecraft with delicate instruments that need protection from temperature extremes. It is also applied to the astronauts' space suits, protecting them during space walks.

Made of aluminized polymer film, the Radiant Barrier both bars and lets in heat to maintain a consistent temperature in an environment where ordinary insulation methods will not suffice. The aluminization of the material provides a reflective surface that keeps more than 95 percent of the radiated energy in space from reaching the spacecraft's interior. In space suits, the thin and flexible material reflects the astronauts' body heat back to them for warmth, while at the same time reflecting the sun's radiation away from them to keep them cool. Using conventional insulation, a space suit would have required a 7-foot-thick protective layer."


I've seen the tops of trailer houses in the summer that you could boil an egg atop, but, when coated with a thin reflective layer of radiant barrier, you can walk atop them in your bare feet. That heat then is not getting inside where the air conditioner has to then deal with it.

Look for any oppportunities to wrap any refrigerators (though not where hot coils are beneath), ice or cold boxes with aluminum foil, shiny side out, and you'll have a radiant barrier in-place reflecting heat away. It just needs an air space on the outside, and not be butted up flat touching against anything, otherwise the heat transfer will conduct through it.

Oh, and regarding butchering large livestock for single family use and preserving the rest, back before refrigeration, they would often put the excess as a deposit into the 'bank', the 'beef bank' or 'club', that is. For instance, a dozen families would each take turns butchering one cow every year and the other 11 got their share from it right then, too, and somebody else would then butcher one of theirs the next month. A different family each month contributed and everybody enjoyed a portion of a fresh recently slaughtered cow each month. They kept very accurate counts of weights that each family got and gave and would even it up as they went along through the year.

- Shane
 

Christian for Israel

Knight of Jerusalem
Crosley IcyBall
Crosley bought the rights to the Icyball refrigeration idea, and brought it to market. Powel Crosley had a gift for recognizing great ideas and gift for marketing. Crosley built thousands of Icyballs in at least two factories, one in the United States and one in Canada. Icyballs have been spotted throughout North America and as far away as Africa. The Canadian made Icyballs carry a tag indicating that they are Deforest Crosley Icyball, those made in the USA are labeled Crosley Icyball.

The Icyball is an intermittent heat absorption type of refrigerator. A water/ammonia mixture is used as the refrigerant . Water and ammonia combine easily. So, they combine in the hot ball at room temperature.

When the hot ball is heated, for about 90 minutes, the ammonia evaporates first because it has a lower boiling point than water. The other cylinder is in water to help condense the ammonia in the cold ball. When the balls are fully charged, the cold ball is placed in the insulated box, as the ammonia evaporates to recombine with the water in the hot ball it removes heat, cooling the inside of the refrigerator for 24+ hours. A hole in the cold ball was for a special ice cube tray.


Deforest Crosley IcyBall SN-775
Built in Toronto
This Icyball was found in the Toronto area and is in very good condition. It was successfully put through a heat charge cycle on November 28th 1998. It produced a temperature of 18 degrees F, in the ice cube tray hole with no insulated box to help the process. Not bad for a 70+ year old refrigerator.
IcyBalls_JB.jpg


This is what you would see looking at a charged Icyball. The left ball is the cold ball and has liquid ammonia in it after the heat cycle, with gas evaporating off the surface, on its way to reunite with water in the hot ball on the right.
IB-Diag-lg.GIF


http://www.ggw.org/~cac/IcyBall/crosley_icyball.html

Home Built
Some people make there own Icyball. Larry Hall built this one and it worked great.

For pictures of some home made Icyballs and Larry Hall's plans to build your own click on the picture below.
 

Airborne Falcon

Resident Ethicist
Always wanted to try one of those CFI. I seem to remember a movie with Harrison Ford, Misquito Coast maybe, where he made reference to those and built a giant one on an island somewhere?

Russ
 

hitssquad

Inactive
Ammonia was abandoned in favor of non-toxic refrigerants. Perhaps we can learn a lesson from history.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammonia#Uses

=-=
Ammonia has thermodynamic properties that make it very well suited as a refrigerant, since it liquefies readily under pressure, and was used in virtually all refrigeration units prior to the advent of haloalkanes such as Freon. However, ammonia is a toxic irritant and its corrosiveness to any copper alloys increases the risk that an undesirable leak may develop and cause a noxious hazard. Its use in small refrigeration units has been largely replaced by haloalkanes, which are not toxic irritants and are practically not flammable. (Note: Butane and isobutane, which have very suitable thermodynamic properties for refrigerants, are extremely flammable.)
=-=
 

jed turtle

a brother in the Lord
interesting thing about that reflective barrier. makes you wonder why the feds are only giving tax breaks on Painted metal roofing. sometimes they strike me as being too stupid to get their shoes on right in the morning.

i only use shiny galvanized metal roofing. i figure besides shielding us from the sun's heat, if there is ever a bright, hot nuclear air burst in the viscinity, it will reflect most of that too...
reminds me to paint the siding white...
 

Onebyone

Inactive
If you have access to salt you can also salt the meat down.

One reason I want to raise sheep and goats instead of cows is because you can slaughter one of them and preserve the meat easy enough and have food a family or small group.
 

jed turtle

a brother in the Lord
hittsquad: "Poor thermal reflectivity even when
galvanised."

i stand corrected. i wonder if there is a paint that can improve the reflectivity.
 

Charlie

Membership Revoked
Lest we forget!

No need to look very far back. In areas with cold winters ice cutting from local lakes and rivers was the ticket. Insulate the ice with local materials like straw and leaves. A local big zoot resort 4 miles from me hired a guy a few years ago to replicate the insulated ice chests so their guests could relive the "old days".
They paid far more than the price of new fridges just so their guests could vacation like their parents did. They cut ice out of the lake and stored it for all summer. This is not rocket surgery. AND....these yuppie kids paid over a grand a week to live like this! :lkick:

Icy Balls........probably about 4 or 5 left......nobody in their right mind is going this route.

Propane Fridges, got a big ass one from the 1940's. Same ammonia technology as the icy balls. There are still lots of them out there. I have a Servel. Has a big freezer too. Not one of the normal ones with the little freezer that will only hold one quart of ice cream and maybe a tray of cubes. This old dog was built for resorts and is our back up for a STHF scenario. Hooked to 1,000 gallons of propane along with our gennie. Should keep stuff cold for awhile and besides, I live in siberia so refridgeration is only needed here a few months annually.

Wells.....the old timers around here all used their dug wells for refridgeration and root cellers were commonplace. Again, no need to rediscover the wheel.

I understand that most people have lost these skills and need to be re-educated on this simple stuff, but I gotta be honest.......this stuff is old hat. Have we really gotten this far from these simple skills???????
 

Charlie

Membership Revoked
Been using this ceramic additive for the last 3 years now. Here is my opinion.

Works good, but their claims are overblown. Having said that, I still think this stuff is GREAT. I have painted the interior of 3 of our four resort buildings with it and will continue to buy and use it. It works, but forgetabout the claims of 30% emergy savings. More like 10-15%. It does cut down on sound issues. Makes the rooms quieter for sure. Does help on heat loss also.

I think it works best on surfaces to prevent heat penetration. In hot areas I think this stuff works better to reflect heat than here in Siberia to keep heat in.

I just got done painting the interior of my new garage/shop with this stuff and for the extra $114 it cost, consider it a good deal. It works IMHO.
 

jed turtle

a brother in the Lord
thanks for the info on the paint additive. i will be trying it out.
Charley, i remember using propane Servels and the well as well.
stored my milk (in glass jars) in the bucket hanging in the water, so if the jar broke or leaked, the bucket would keep the milk from contaminating the well.
worked pretty good until the well went dry or was too low in august during drought years.
 

grommit

Senior Member
hitssquad said:
http://www.ceramicpaintadditives.com

You can probably find similar ones. I think they all use use ceramic as the reflector.

May want to test a bit of the paint before investing in enough to paint the whole building. The monolithic dome people tested one product with ceramic spheres or something in it and measured no practical advantage air conditioning wise.

Maybe they picked the wrong one to test.

If anyone knows of a type that actually cuts the old AC bill, we would all like to know of it.
 

epaul

Inactive
grommit said:
May want to test a bit of the paint before investing in enough to paint the whole building. The monolithic dome people tested one product with ceramic spheres or something in it and measured no practical advantage air conditioning wise.

Maybe they picked the wrong one to test.

If anyone knows of a type that actually cuts the old AC bill, we would all like to know of it.


Don't know if these guys are any better, but it is interesting:

http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html
 

Christian for Israel

Knight of Jerusalem
Icy Balls........probably about 4 or 5 left......nobody in their right mind is going this route.

Propane Fridges, got a big ass one from the 1940's. Same ammonia technology as the icy balls. There are still lots of them out there. I have a Servel. Has a big freezer too. Not one of the normal ones with the little freezer that will only hold one quart of ice cream and maybe a tray of cubes. This old dog was built for resorts and is our back up for a STHF scenario. Hooked to 1,000 gallons of propane along with our gennie. Should keep stuff cold for awhile and besides, I live in siberia so refridgeration is only needed here a few months annually.

interesting opinion...but long after your propane tank is dry my icyball will still be chugging along...
 

hitssquad

Inactive
Real-world performance of reflective coatings

grommit said:
May want to test a bit of the paint before investing in enough to paint the whole building. The monolithic dome people tested one product with ceramic spheres or something in it and measured no practical advantage air conditioning wise.
http://www.monolithic.com/plan_design/ceramic

ceramic_white_monolithicx.jpg


=-=
In the direct sun, the surface of the ceramic-coated building will reach 105F, The surface of the white paint coating will reach 106F, the sandstone Airform surface of the Monolithic Dome will reach 140F.
=-=


Hmmm. Well, I guess I would just use white paint instead, then. Also, as the coating gets dirty or otherwise weathered, it does not perform as well. So, comparisons should not be made merely on the basis of the performance of brand-new coatings:
http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/roof/coatings.html

=-=
The same effect is obtained according to the model with a fresh white coating on the uninsulated roof, but the weathered white coating (or fresh aluminum coating or fresh white coating on a rough surface) does not do nearly as well. Starting from a roof insulated with 1 or 2 in. (2.5 or 5.1 cm) of foam insulation, the projected energy savings from coating the roof are not as impressive.
=-=
 
Last edited:

Donald Shimoda

In Absentia
EVERYONE interested in this should click on the original link.

Howdy, Folks!


I bookmarked this link back in 1999.

I found it invaluable in determining what would be right for me in a SHTF scenario, and aided me in my Pre-Y2K preps.

The answer for refrigeration is - there is no right answer. Depends on LOTS of things, i.e., environment, availability of fresh foods, and so forth.

Personally, when we really looked at preps and how to live WITHOUT refrigeration, we did find one thing that would need it - medicines. So, we prepped for that.


Please click the link and read - lotsa good stuff there!

Peace and Love,

Don
 
Top