PREP How to fix a generator that won’t start, or won’t stay running.

CaryC

Has No Life - Lives on TB
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGOex_bjsUM


Going to look into this, mine won’t start.
This a problem with genie's. I bought a big one and had the same problem. Now I have two 2000 watt inverters, and go through the shutdown process, and they have always started on the 3rd pull. Which won't help you, now.

You're going to get a lot of advice, I'm sure, so here is mine:

I would pull and check the spark plug. And even if it was 3 YO I would replace, since you're working on it anyway.

2) If you don't use it very much, the diaphragm thingy that is the fuel pump in the carburetor can dry out and split/tear/pinhole. BUT before I tore it down to change it, I would spray carburetor cleaner in the air filter, and give it a pull. The cleaner is highly flammable, more so than gas, and if anything is working in there will fire off, and run long enough to either burn off the cleaner, or run the gas through the system and it go on it's own.

3) once you get passed those two things you're looking at some serious rebuilding, mostly in the carb. If you use it a lot, it may be in the compression, which means shot rings.
 

DFENZ

Contributing Member
I have no stats, but I would guess that 9 times out of 10 the issue is ethanol fuel. NEVER, EVER use ethanol fuel in stationary equipment, particularly generators or similar seasonal equipment that tends to sit for extended periods. The ethanol in fuel absorbs and attracts moisture which will settle to the bottom of your tank and rust/corrode, plugging the tiny jets in the carburetor. And the jets are factory sealed making them impossible to adjust or move to dislodge the gunk.

If you're lucky enough that the thing will actually start, drain the remaining fuel and replenish with pure gasoline and a dose of StarTron fuel fixative, then let it run for 10 minutes while choking it as much as you can, and then let it sit to dissolve the deposits. Lots of times the problem will resolve itself that way. StarTron really is miracle stuff; you will find it in a blue bottle at Walmart or wherever...

I cannot stress enough the importance of using only real gasoline. And if your gas station has the option of both non-ethanol and ethanol gasoline but dispenses from the same hose, run a couple of gallons of real gasoline into your car first to purge the hose and nozzle of any residual ethanol. Then fill your gas jug with the real deal. If you don't you are at the mercy of whoever last used the pump; most likely they dispensed the cheaper ethanol fuel. You want none of it in stationary equipment.
 

KFhunter

Veteran Member
Suitcase genny’s don’t start well in the cold with 30wt oil in the crank

A squirt of starting fluid in the air filter is much better than pulling the heart attack r.i.p. cord at negative temps
 

KFhunter

Veteran Member
If it starts, but doesn’t stay running, or won’t start at all check the oil level first, some are overly sensitive with that oil level safety shutoff
 

Southside

Has No Life - Lives on TB
I hate to say it, I pay way too much for fuel, because my equipment sits.
It ALWAYS starts, though. Mom, too. She has a Honda 3000i generator, 5 years old, with a bad battery. Started 2nd pull. My snowblower sat all year last year, 1.5 years since last run.
Started immediately.

Here is the fuel I keep in my snow blower and generator.

 

RememberGoliad

Veteran Member
In the vid, the main jet is plugged up. Either a flake of grass etc. or corn gas crust flaking off. Guy never showed blowing through the main jet with the straw on the carb cleaner can. I've had success with using a single strand of wire brush to scrounge around in the main jet, kinda scraping the sides of it, then blowing it out with carb cleaner. Might've saved himself the 30 bucks and couple days' wait time if he'd've tried that.

Generally, unless the passages are all pitted up and rotten from the corngas, these carbs can be cleaned out and run just fine with 30 minutes of attention.
 

CaryC

Has No Life - Lives on TB
Been using regular gas in all my gas equipment which means 10% Ethanol, and have never had a problem. Starting. and running. Lawn mower (a 2007 John Deere Riding mower) and log splitter sit for 6 months roughly, at a time. Same for chainsaws, with the oil mix.

In fact all the manuals say they are designed to use 10% Ethanol.

I do run the genie's through the shut down process, but don't the lawn mower and splitter.

If any moisture is in the gas, which can and does happen and a bottle of stuff to get that out is available at a parts store or walmart.

But the best way to get moisture in the gas, is because the tank sits in the sun, and condensation sets up on the inside. Much like condensation does on a toilet tank. While not in the sun, the cold water on the inside, and hot air on the outside does cause that.

All of my equipment sits in the shade, while not in use.
 

Milkweed Host

Veteran Member
I think that with many U-tube videos, it's a good idea to do multiple searches.

Although this guy fixed the problem, he did so in a very dangerous environment.

He's working with denser than air gasoline vapors in a basement.
He has an open spark along with an engine back fire, which is an open flame shooting out the
carb.

Also, he tested out an ABC powder fire extinguisher????????
These are a one time use as the valve/o-ring now has powder
stuck to it. This will release any remaining air.
The fire extinguisher will have to be recharged or replaced.

However, it was an interesting and educational video.
 
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