Calling Summerthyme-----Hand Pollination? How?

Salal Sue

Senior Member
Hand Pollination for Dummies!

OK, I need a paintbrush, what kind, size? (as in extra small for blueberries, larger for squash)?????

What is the optimum age of the blossom for polination? How do you know when the maturation level is right?

Time of day important?

Method? Technique?

There must be some speed tricks if we ever have to pollinate a home orchard by hand.

Think I'll start praying for healthy bees...!!! Hope we never have to do this but knowing HOW could make a huge difference in getting through a winter with enough food.
 

summerthyme

Administrator
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Hi, Sue!

Remember... I'm not an expert... I've just played around with stuff like this over the years. And it did seem to make a big difference in the apple crop when our wild bees were MIA.

First, while I did say "paintbrush" and you CAN use one- you really don't need one. It might be easier for some crops, but...

When I did apples, I picked a small branch off either a wild tree (lots of them around here) or a variety I knew was a good pollinator (if you aren't sure about what you've got, read some catalogs or look up on the 'net what varieties will pollinate what). I'd take a freshly opened blossom and pull the petals off, leaving the stamens (the male parts, which are heavy with pollen). Then I'd dust that blossom on the main ("king") blossom of each of several blossom clusters on the tree I was working on. I figured I could do a dozen or more before switching to a "fresh" flower for more pollen.. and it did work.

One really good thing about this is if you ARE the main -or only- pollinator working, you can pollinate only the blossoms within reach, and only one on each cluster- which will eliminate the hand thinning usually needed later on.

As far as "speed tricks" you might be surprised at how fast you can get this done if necessary, although I don't believe it will be practical to do an entire orchard. I used to get good crops from my 8 front yard trees by spending maybe 1/2 hour a day every day for a week or so. I'm not sure time of day matters much, but I preferred to work in mid-morning- about the time the sun warmed things up and when bees would normally be buzzing around and working. (Time of day can be critical if you are attempting plant BREEDING, where you need to beat any pollinators to the flowers, however)

For all the little details for whatever plant you're thinking of producing, get your hands on a good seed saving or plant breeding book- "Seed to Seed" is one, and "Breeding your own Vegetables" is another. They have a lot more detail on other aspects (the genetics of plant color, for example, in the latter named book) but they also give really good basic information on what plants will pollinate each other, and many of your other questions.

For pumpkins, squashes, etc, you can either pick a male blossom and do the same thing as I did with the apples, or you can use a paintbrush- a nice, fine bristled plus round one works well- and swish it around in a newly opened male blossom, then dab it in several fresh female blossoms, before "reloading" it with pollen from another male. If you're trying to save seed, wash the brush out thorougly with fresh water before going on to a new variety of plant which could be cross pollinated (zuchinni and yellow crookneck squashes, for example, or pumpkins and winter squash. Again, this is where a "seed saving" book is valuable)

As far as blueberries- at this point, I'm as clueless as you! I'm going to be doing some reading up... I'm assuming (always a dangerous practice!) that they are similar to apples- that is, each blossom has both male and female parts, but they require pollination from a different variety to produce fruit. (This is known as being self sterile, by the way). I'll probably experiment with picking several blossoms, picking the petals off and using the cluster of stamens to brush across many blossoms at one time... and then try a paintbrush and see if that is easier. The drawback with picking blossoms and using them as pollinators is- obviously- that the blossoms that you pick won't produce fruit themselves, where if you use a paintbrush and go back and forth between blossoms, each bloom can produce a berry. For large fruits- apples, pears, peaches, etc- that's not really a problem because they produce a lot more blossoms than they can possibly support as ripening fruit. For the smaller fruits, you probably don't want to steal many blossoms just to use as male pollinators, which is where the paintbrush may come in handy....

And yes, I'm praying for healthy bees as well! As I said, it has such huge implications for more than just our gardens this year... everything from the large farm crops to next year's seed crops will be affected if this CCD spreads. Scary times...

Summerthyme
 

Laurie the Mom

Senior Member
I've used Q-tips on my outdoor plants with good results as well. For squash you'll want to catch them in the morning before the blossoms close up.

Laurie
 

Salal Sue

Senior Member
Many thanks, Summerthyme! This is a skill I will experiment with this season and hope and pray we never have to do it for survival.

After reading your posts for several years I think you would be the perfect author for Book 2 of the Encyclopedia for Country Living!
 

Barry Natchitoches

Has No Life - Lives on TB
One year, I was late pruning the peach trees and was pruning them while the flowers were in full bloom.


This caused alot of shaking of the flowers and pollen flying all over the place.


I NEVER had more flowers fertilize and develop into little peaches than that particular year.


So I am figuring, maybe shaking the branches alot while they are in full bloom might help if the bees are not around to do the job?
 

summerthyme

Administrator
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Barry... it might help a lot - IF it's a variety which can self pollinate. Apple trees won't do that... they require a second variety. Cherries can vary.... a few are self pollinating, many aren't (too lazy to look up which is which... either sour or sweets are mostly self pollinating, but often require specific other varieties to pollinate well).

For vegetables like tomatoes and peppers which ARE self pollinating, shaking or tapping the plants does improve fruit set a lot. For plants in a greenhouse, it's vital to do this- outdoor plants usually get enough movement from wind, etc...

Sue... thank you (blushing). I've had several dozen request to write a book on homesteading and dairy cows, etc. My biggest problem- besides time!- is knowing where to start- and stop! Maybe someday...

Summerthyme
 

Old Futz

Inactive
Calling Summerthyme

A couple of points: For apples, two popular varieties are sterile and will not pollinate other varieties. These are the Gravenstein and the Jonagold. When you choose varieties to grow, try to find those which come into blossom at nearly the same time, usually early, middle, or late ones, and your results will be better at insect or hand pollination. European honey bees also won't work when it's cold and wet, while other wild varieties and masons will.

For tomatoes, professional hydroponics folks told me the prime time to blow them with a fan or hand-held blower is 11 A.M. I assume that's daylight savings time! I use a variable speed fan in the greenhouse and blast 'em in an orderly walk through. That should work outside as well.
 

summerthyme

Administrator
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Old Futz.... true, on the apple varieties. I've avoided worrying about the problem of "what will pollinate what" by simply using *wild* apples for my pollinators! They are the offspring of escapees from local orchards and because they are "natural" varieties, it seems unlikely that any of them will be sterile. I have a fairly good choice (a *really* good choice if I want to roam around the farm a bit) and can use branches of blooms from several different trees... and I do.

For those who have purchased trees, I'd assume that you did some research on varieties which were compatible when you bought them. Most catalogs have pretty good information on what pollinates what, and which varieties are special cases.

As far as using a fan, etc on tomatoes... it's certainly more sanitary than the low tech method... simply wandering by the plants and tapping or brushing against the branches. But that works, too- and if you're fairly careful to not handle the plants when they are wet, and not smoke or handle tobacco before handling the plants (tobacco diseases can affect many garden plants, especially the nightshades like tomatoes and peppers) the disease risk is pretty low.

I've got to do some research on which of my Blueberry varieties are best to use for each other for pollination. I planted 6 each of 6 different varieties, and made sure at the time that they each had pollinators included for their seasonal times. But I've been able to count on the bees to pollinate them the last couple of years. It doesn't look good for this year.

One thing I'm going to do for the vegetable garden is make an extra effort to plant colorful flowers which are known to be attractive to bees, and some which attract other insects as well. I'll interplant them, concentrating on having them around the plants which need insect pollination and see if I can attract any of the remaining pollinators.

Summerthyme
 

Freeholder

This too shall pass.
Many thanks, Summerthyme! This is a skill I will experiment with this season and hope and pray we never have to do it for survival.

After reading your posts for several years I think you would be the perfect author for Book 2 of the Encyclopedia for Country Living!

Hmm. How about a Survivalist's Edition of the Encyclopedia of Country Living?!? (It might be the size of the Britanica, though, LOL!)

Kathleen
 
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