Story Aunt Gus and Little Bear's Adventure Book 3 (Complete)

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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July 22nd – Chenega Bay >> Whittier

We arrived in Chenega Bay[1] at 11:30 am. I know it is just a locals kind of place. I know there wasn’t anything really to do or look at. I know we were only going to be there two hours. But I needed off that ferry. And away from some of the so-called team. Ugh.

It took twenty minutes to get off and nearly the same to get back on but for one hour, one blessed hour, Benny and I were away from those people. This is going to be much more difficult than I thought if this keeps up. Had it just been the two of us I might have already flipped them all off and started the long drive back to the continental US. But it isn’t just the two of us. And our third, Lev, works with these people and I don’t want to pay him back that way.

So, we walked to the bank in one direction – I got some “emergency cash” for just in case – and then back. Nothing exciting. No stores. We did pass by the Subsistence Building which appeared to be some kind of shared community space full of food processing equipment but I don’t know for sure if that’s what it was or not. It was raining.

We were back onboard by one o’clock but Lev was frantic. “Please don’t. We are back on time.”

He shuddered. I mean he honestly shuddered. “I … I know. And … you’re capable. Of course I know that. I’ve witnessed it firsthand.”

“We won’t get off again if it bothers you that much.”

“I can’t ask that of you.”

“Sure you can. But you won’t have to. I just needed some space because we are heading into a long stretch. Here, I brought you another one of those boxed drinks. They didn’t even card me.”

“Er … really?”

“Yeah. I’ll go fix lunch … or dinner. Whichever it is. Time is weird here in AK.”

“Uh … you really won’t?”

“We really won’t,” I answered feeling no fuss or bother.

“I’ll make it up to you. I swear.”

“Stop already,” I told him. “I got the space I needed and my head is on straighter. I just needed away from the crowds.”

“You mean you needed away from …”

“Yeah, her too but don’t let it tweak you. I refuse to cause problems for you.”

He didn’t seem to know what to make of that, or how to respond anyway, and he got called back by his team while I went to get some hot water so I could feed Benny and Lev. My appetite isn’t so good. We departed Chenega Bay at at 1:30 pm and it was only 4 ½ hours to next port which was Whittier. Even had I wanted to get off there really wasn’t time for it. We arrived at 6 pm and departed at 8 pm. Twenty-two hours to the next port. I’ve never had such a problem being on the water. I’d almost rather hide out in the van for the duration.


[1] The Chenega Story - Chenega
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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July 23rd - Yuktat

We arrived in Yakutat @ 6 pm. Even had I been inclined to leave the ferry, there would not have been anything to leave the ferry for. Everything but the liquor store and a grocery called the Alaska Commercial Company was closed. I was surprised at the number of people that were getting off and just wandering around until I saw a truck show up and people started taking delivery of things they’d ordered … things being food. Someone was making a good bit of money. I ignored it as much as I could and fixed our food.

“You sure you don’t mind eating in the tent? We could go to the café if …”

“Do you need to go to be with your team?”

“No,” he answered and I heard something.

“Everything okay?”

He sighed. “We have a couple of prima donnas. I can already tell that Bob has his hands full.”

“Sounds not-fun.”

“It is not-fun,” he replied. “I’m done with them for today. Can you stand me hanging out here?”

I chuckled. “If you can stand us we can certainly stand you.”

We departed at 8 pm and I’m thankful I will be sleeping for at least half of the seventeen hours until the next port. I will be sooooo glad to get off this ferry.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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July 24th – Juneau

Arrived in Juneau at 1 pm. We checked into a hotel and Lev got strange again.

“Don’t flip a switch. Have I made an issue of you sleeping within feet of Benny and I thus far?”

“Not … the … point,” Lev growled. “I told them two bedrooms, not two beds. I’m trying to make sure that …”

Maybe I am just weird. I don’t know. On the other hand, Lev is making this harder than it needs to be. “I understand you respect me. Enough already Lev. I promise, I feel all sorts of respected. Butt loads full of respected. You know what would make me feel even better?”

“What? Tell me. I’ll do it.”

“To use the washing machine you say this place has and wash this bag of disgusting clothes.”

“Gus …”

“Lev, I trust you. And get that look off your face, it isn’t the kiss of death. I’ve … I’ve had enough of men I can’t trust, or who don’t trust me to do the right thing. Trust is something I absolutely need on both sides of the equation. And you make that possible. Please don’t turn this into one of those stupid circular arguments that no one can win. Or a soap opera at that has more drama than any sane person on this plane of reality should be looking for.”

He looked at me searchingly then asked in a relieved voice, “You sure?”

“Yes. And no, you are not going to sleep on the floor.”

We were exhausted. I carried Benny in while Lev carried what gear we were bringing in. Rather than go out, even though part of me was dying to, we cleaned up, ordered food delivered from a local taco stand if you can believe that, one recommended by the hotel front desk not to have food borne illnesses doing the macarena all over it, and discussed what we needed to do first thing in the morning which includes a quick grocery stop after going back over what Lev had told me before about food and logistics in the rural areas of AK.

And Lev doesn’t have to sleep on the floor because there is a sofa bed and Benny has already claimed it for his spot. Apparently sofa beds are too cool to pass up a chance to use. [Insert eye roll about what little boys consider cool.] And I said yes, he could use said sofa bed, so long as he promised not to try and close himself up in it like some cartoon character.

As Lev and I had discussed previously, the part of this assignment in our control that is going to require the most planning is food and supplies. For the upcoming portion, the situation is that once we reach Gustavus we are in rural, remote (by our standards) Alaska. Supplies are expensive and difficult to find. That means getting our supplies here in Juneau including filling all available fuel containers, getting some white fuel for outdoor cooking in case that is necessary, as well as more bear spray. When we travel by plane later in the assignment, leaving the van in place, we’ll have to figure something else out as you can’t bring cooking fuel or bear spray on the planes due to pressurization issues. I lean towards solid fuel tabs but that is going to depend on availability.

Also as discussed, doing any hiking or camping will require us to have bear spray, which is basically pepper spray on steroids in a larger container. The idea is that you carry it and if you encounter a bear you get ready to spray if it charges you. The better idea is to never get into that position to start with, but better safe than sorry. Be prepared and chart your course. The team will also hire a guide (one or more) that will carry a bang stick otherwise known as a rifle loaded with the kind of things that go bang that will deter or take down a bear if you and it aren’t smart enough to avoid one another. I almost told Lev about the guns that are still hidden in the floor but for some reason … well whatever. If it comes up, it comes up, and if it doesn’t, it doesn’t.

There is no cell service in Bartlett Cove where we will be staying. There are a few places in the park that have WiFi but it is limited. That is going to be a challenge for the team. They will have a satellite signal, but it is only for uploading digital materials to send back to the LA offices where primary production will take place.

I told Lev, “I might be able to boost a signal if you need a connection.”

“Ha! I wouldn’t put it passed you. I’ve seen what you are able to pull off with your set up. But if you can, just keep it to yourself.”

“Uh …”

Taking a deep breath like he was about to say something important he told me, “Gus, I’ve worked with people on this team before. Unfortunately, you’ve seen how they’ve been acting. They’ll take advantage of anything offered.”

Willing to accept his statement as fact rather than overprotectiveness I responded, “Fine. Just so you know it’s there … assuming I can get it there.”

“And just so you know, that goes for anything else … from the solar power to the bathroom, what you call the head. And if you aren’t in the van, keep it locked.”

Alrighty then. That is a sucky note to close on, but I’d rather know who I can trust upfront than have to find it out as I go the hard way.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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July 25th: Juneau >> Gustav, Alaska​


Sunrise/Sunset: 4:42 am / 9:36 pm

As I stared at what was being put in the buggy at the Costco in Juneau, as calmly as I could I asked, “Lev … did sleeping in a bed last night cause you to lose your mind? We are already maxed out for space. I’m surprised they didn’t use the Ark as an anchor or for ballast on the ferry.” I was wondering yet again where I was supposed to store it all.

“You’re a funny girl Gus,” he said as he grabbed another case of mineral water after I made the mistake of saying we didn’t need the first one. “We are going to be working hard and there is some cold weather we may have to deal with. We have all the dried and shelf-stable stuff but the frig and freezer are empty except for a couple of cans of caviar I managed to keep for us. And yes, I know we have the bulk supplies, the camp food, the stuff you bought in Homer, and the stuff from Ketchikan, but I said I was going to make sure we have fresh to piece it out. All three of us need it. I’m not going back to the way I used to eat. More to the point, I’m not going back to the way I used to feel all the time. I’m not going to constantly be sick like that. Not ever again. As in never ever. If that means changing my budget around, that’s the way it is going to be.”

He was so serious I just gave way and I’m determined not waste anything that he bought … buys.

Fresh supplies …
Seafood: salmon (fresh and smoked and more of the canned stuff), trout, clams, cod, halibut, shrimp, oysters. I told him I know how to fix fried calamari so that it is gluten free. I need to keep my mouth shut.​
Meat: bison medallions, elk medallions, chicken, pork, bacon, sausages, pork loin, stew meat, ham steaks, ground chuck, and moose (no, I’m not kidding)​
Frozen foods: meatballs, ground bison, ground venison, elk burger​
Kind bars​
Autumn Gold gluten-free granola bars​
Lara Bars – on sale for an unbelievable price of 5/$5​
Beanito chips​
Almond-flour and Rice-flour crackers​
Corn nuts​
Mott’s fruit snacks (to replace the gummy worms we hadn’t found)​
Frito chips​
Golden milk powder with turmeric and ginger​
Tanka-brand gluten free jerky flavors​
Flat of V-8 juice cans​
Eggs​
Pellegrino mineral water in plastic bottles that will require recycling per Alaska law​
#10 cans of freeze-dried shredded cheese​
Applesauce and applesauce blends such as apple-strawberry, apple-mango, etc etc until Lev says otherwise etc​
Jif creamy peanut butter​
Turmeric powder​
Gogosqueeze fruit sauce (because sometimes it is a good thing to have Lev and Benny all sugared up at the same time – and yes that is sarcasm)​
Maple syrup (the real stuff)​
Birch syrup (what the heck is that?!)​
Peanut butter powder (for smoothies)​
Parmesan cheese wraps (gluten-free, dairy-free, thankfully not taste free and that taste was better than decent)​
Dried fruit bars​
More shelf stable milk (in case the powdered stuff sent by the sponsors tastes like crap and is only good for cooking)​
Avocado oil​
Coconut oil​
Olive oil​
Sunflower oil​
Grapeseed oil​
Peanut oil (because thank goodness neither Benny nor Lev are allergic to nuts)​
Walnut oil​
Sesame oil​
A couple of gluten-free pizzas​

Got confirmation today that there is free, public WiFi available at Glacier Bay Lodge and the Visitor Information Station (VIS). There is no, as in N. O., cell service at the park. There is limited cell service available in Gustavus, but it can be unreliable and stops about five miles from the developed area of Bartlett Cove.

After Lev’s version of a trip to the grocery store, we took the ferry from Juneau to Gustavus. From there we followed the directions to meet up with the entire team and checked into the BnB only to learn that Benny and I will need to sleep in the van. The BnB in Gustavus only holds up to 14 people. The person in charge of booking locations didn’t double check the numbers. Lev makes 15 and Benny and I make 17. Also, the on-location director will not double up with anyone so that means that even though they can put two on the floor on air mattresses they still have too many people.

“Stop with the noise people. Give me a chance to work something out,” I had to finally use my outdoor voice inside to get a word in edgewise. After a surprisingly short parlay with the BnB owner he agreed to allow Benny and I to stay in the van since it is hard sided, but not run the engine at night. Benny and I are also going to give the place a bang up review with pictures and all on the blog and I intend to give back with some kind of service project that Benny and I can do to say thank you.

“See? Wasn’t that less exhausting than a panic attack?” I asked Lev once I had cleared the compromise with him and Bob.

Bob grinned and said, “No one likes a smart aleck Lady. And thanks for handling it. Maybe I’ll have you do the next round of negotiating.” He walked back into the house relieved. Lev on the other hand was still grumbling that cleaning up screw ups was not in my job description.

“Maybe not, but it is better than waiting on Harry’s stepsister’s cousin’s uncle to step up to the plate and make a pitch at it. And stop worrying that I’m being taken advantage of … or don’t you get it that Benny and I will have it a lot better off out here than trying to find floor space in the house?”

“Mebbe,” he said, finally willing to let it go.

While Lev and the rest of the team planned out story boards and what have you, Benny and I cleaned and organized the van (or tried to given the current space issues). I also did some quick laundry items, and tried to acclimate to all the overwhelming newness being thrown at our senses. We are in Alaska. I know I keep saying that but … we are in Alaska. This is well beyond what I thought I could do with and for Benny. Yes, the future is still out there for me to figure out but … and I’m not saying this lightly and I don’t want to jinx it either … Lev is a good guy. He seems to think of me in a certain way. I’m not as uncomfortable with that as I was, and I don’t exactly think of him the way I did back in Florida. We’ve turned a page. I’m just not sure if this is serious friendship or if there is more. It happened so fast. I’ve made some boneheaded choices in the past and I don’t want to make anymore. Or maybe more importantly I don’t want to make them with Lev. He is the kind of person that I want to keep as a friend if nothing else comes of this. And enough of that, I have plenty on my plate without adding anything like the birds and the bees to it.

Wifi is limited but the booster helped me to post to the blog. I was skimming off the satellite signal but only when it wasn’t in use by the crowd in the house. Where possible I made sure to speak highly of the people and/or businesses that we’ve come in contact with. I did not tell anyone I had a connection. Recalling Lev’s warning, I kept it to myself otherwise everyone on his team would be trying to “borrow” the bandwidth I was creating. I’m surprised at how protective he seems. I mean he is still Lev, but he is definitely showing a different side of himself. Well, maybe not different just more pointed and developed although that isn’t exactly what I mean either. Different is the best description, just not the most detailed.

At lunchtime Lev came out to the van and asked if I minded if he ate with us.

“Of course not but is anything wrong?”

He shook his head, but I could tell he was in work mode. “They’re eating sandwiches. I guess they didn’t take me seriously about being GS. They make allowances for the vegetarians and vegans but me they …” He stopped and shook his head. “Ignore me. Benny doesn’t complain this much. How are the supplies going to hold out? Did you get to do the inventory you wanted?”

“Plenty for nearly two months plus. Might get monotonous here and there unless we can pick up fresh greens and that sort of thing but this is more than I’ve ever stored before. Speaking of, is there a calendar of events or a general idea of the itinerary I can look at? I want to have some kind of idea for menu planning and the etc and ad nauseum to give the hamster something to do to keep it happy and busy.”

He chuckled because he understood how I dealt with my OCD. “Yeah. We’re working out the finer details of the schedule, but this is what we have so far.” He pulled a roll of paper out of his back pocket. “I need you to go over this and make sure these are all Benny-appropriate.” I watched Big Ear Benny duck down over by his bed thinking if I couldn’t see him, I wouldn’t mind him listening in. I let it go this time, but that sort of thing will need to be nipped in the bud if he does it too often. Lev got my attention back when he added, “They’re all considered family-friendly, but I still want you to have your say.”

Getting a suspicion I said, “And that face you are making says that not everyone agrees.”

He grabbed a couple of folding chairs from the back of the van and brought them around so we could sit while we ate. “Yeah well tough sh … er … crap,” Lev corrected as he too spotted Benny’s hiding spot. He got some extra brownie points for effort, and I made sure that he had enough to eat.

“Where’s your plate?” Lev asked.

“Right here,” I said lifting up the rest of the smoothie I’d made for breakfast.

“Did I take …”

“No. Stop worrying. My stomach is a little off from all that camp food we had on the ferry.”

He slowly nodded, “Yeah, I missed your cooking for sure. Look, the team wants to go to town for supper. You can go but I think they are gonna find a bar and booze it up one last time before filming starts tomorrow.”

“No thanks, just ate a bar of soap.”

He laughed as I had meant him to. “Ha! But look, seriously, I may have to go … team building and all that … but at least half of us will be back before it gets too late. Chan, Diego, and I for sure. Chan doesn’t drink, his family is Mormon, gets bored and wants to get back to his sound files usually, and Diego has some kind of metabolism thing, not diabetic but something like that and he can’t drink.”

I replayed what he said to make sure. “Tell me you guys have a first aider for just in case.”

“Yeah. Diego.”

I muttered unintelligible things that basically considered them all idiots to allow their most medically at-risk member to be the primary first aider. What if Diego needed medical attention? Right then I made a note to get to know the guy in case back up was required.

“Er …”

I just shook my head and looked at him.

He snorted. “Okay. I see your point. So … do you have a problem with me going to town?”

I gave him a look the question deserved. “I’m not your momma Dude. You don’t need my permission to do anything.”

“No. But …”

“No buts,” I told him. “Go hang with your friends and team-build. We’re fine.”

“You sure?”

I gave him another look and asked, “Have you ever known me not to give my opinion when I have one?”

“Ha! Okay. And I’m gonna scope out supplies too. I know you say you have enough in the magic storage tubs, but it never hurts to have back up plans for re-fueling.”

# # # # #

“Sorry Gus.”

“Will you stop? You had us stock up twice before the ferry, you even got all those camp meals and I didn’t give you enough credit for that. Then you had us stock up again in Juneau. What about your team, how are they eating?”

“The producer’s secretary had stuff shipped out. They’ll eat good as long as they don’t get stupid. And by good I mean Hollywood standard good. One of the team is a sous chef on top of lighting expert. Diego brought his own food as well.”

“Then why are you all down in the dumps?”

He sighed as he took off his boots after making sure we were good to lock down for the “night.” Sunset was about 9:30 pm but twilight would last another hour. He started making his bed before he answered. “I’m still learning.”

“’Scuse me?” I asked, not understanding his answer.

“If it was just me, I would get by. Even if I had to cater to a special diet I would still manage without worrying too much. And I know you’d do the same thing if it was just you or just the two of us. Adding a kid to the mix? I thought I figured that out in Florida, but we had easy access to whatever we could need. Even in the areas still recovering from major hurricane damage. Just tell me I didn’t screw up here.”

“You didn’t screw up here,” I told him deadpan.

He rolled his eyes before going into the head to don his night outfit. I was already in mine and sitting up in the platform area, but I hadn’t pulled the curtain. Coming out he needed assurance but just looked at Benny who was dead to the world.

“I swear the kid could sleep through Sherman’s Army polka dancing.”

The visual was almost more than my composure could handle. “Stop it before I bust a gut. Seriously Lev, everything is okay.” I looked at him for a moment before getting serious, “I take it your friends had a few things to say.”

“Not directly but I can hear it ramping up. I keep trying to tell them that you and Benny aren’t actors and can’t be treated that way. That this only works if they behave as observers and not as you two needing constant prompts.”

“If they don’t get the concept then tell them to treat us like animals in the wilderness.” I shrugged. “If they want something in particular, I am not against trying, but not at the expense of reality. Benny and I aren’t unicorns. They want a realistic documentary then they need to let us be people. If we make mistakes, then get them on film and use it. Like a certain outhouse incident that shall remain nameless. Deal?”

That did it. Guys always think bathroom humor is funny. “Deal.” He was finally about ready to turn the lantern out when he asked, “Are you really excited for tomorrow?”

“You have no freaking idea. Just …”

“Just?”

“You aren’t paying for this out of your pocket are you?”

“No. And even if I was you need to stop worrying the money issues to death. I told you I’m flush.”

“Yeah, well you won’t stay that way by spoiling Benny and me the way you did on the trip west.”

“Uh … you really think I spoiled you?”

“I know you did.”

He laid down and said, “I just want you to have fun Gus. I love to see and hear you laugh. You were so serious when we first met, I wasn’t sure how I was going to get the shots the state wanted. Then you smiled as you were showing some bug to Benny. Then when he got a surprised look and you laughed … that was it. Man was I pissed when I realized Rick was there before me. And you have no idea what it felt like to have you just show up at the truck stop when I thought I’d never see you again.”

“Lev …”

“Sorry. Pushing.”

“It isn’t that.” I swallowed to try and find some spit. “I’m glad you missed your ride.”

He was quiet for a moment then said, “I didn’t miss my ride. My ride showed up right on time.”

We were both quiet then I realized he’d fallen asleep and I closed the curtain and I typed this up.

Resources:
Brochure and Map | Gustavus Visitor Association (gustavusak.com)
Photo Gallery (U.S. National Park Service)
Photo Gallery (U.S. National Park Service)
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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July 26th – Sea Kayaking in Glacier Bay​


I didn’t need the Access Pass today because Glacier Bay does not have an entrance fee. And Benny was absolutely hysterical when Lev surprised him with the park’s Junior Ranger booklet. Yes, Little Bear, there are Junior Ranger activities in Alaska. This time I took the pictures and Lev’s face was as priceless as Benny’s when he received a Grade A Little Bear hug.

As I had read, all day-adventures take place in Bartlett Cove where the headquarters of Glacier Bay National Park is located. That’s also where the novice sea kayaker can find a very protected rain forest environment in which to learn to paddle and explore. The rules are that kayakers may paddle along the shores of Lester Island and Point Gustavus with opportunities to view a variety of land mammals, marine and bird life, seals, porpoise, sea otter, black bear, moose, bald eagles, and whales are the one more likely to be seen; however, everyone is to keep their distance from any animal. Well, we were soon to find out up close and personal how true the advertisements are.

Benny and I had such an adventure today; a guided sea kayaking adventure in Glacier Bay National Park's Bartlett Cove area. In other words, we were sea kayaking in freaking Alaska!! Amazing!

We had an experienced kayak guide who was also a trained naturalist, and we were also part of a tour group of other kayakers - most of them novices – to give the scenes even more reality. With the guide’s help our group safely interacted with the marine environment, forested wilderness shorelines, and abundant wildlife. The birds were the most curious, a few being as annoying as the seagulls back home. Moose and black bears on the shore would look up from what they were doing to give us the once over as well. The guide gave just enough running commentary that it was interesting without distracting us from our ability to take in our surroundings. According to the bill I saw that I wasn’t supposed to see, a full day trip includes a relaxed lunch on a secluded beach, and a short educational nature walk to round out the adventure. Cost included rain gear, boots, kayak gear, snacks, lunch on the full day tour, and round-trip van transportation from our Gustavus lodging. We didn’t need transportation, so I hope they got some kind of discount. Holy frijole Batman, and the fact that Benny and I were able to do it gratis to us … just wow.

We went into it knowing we were going to be paddling between two and five miles, dependent on weather and the rest of the group’s ability. After we got going, our guide said it was likely going to be closer to five than two as everyone had some experience and some of us had more than just some. But we weren’t going to just be paddling. There were also going to be opportunities for photography, whale watching, and a rain forest hike. Yes. A rain forest. In Alaska.

Our guide explained that Point Adolphus is a world-famous location for watching 50-ton humpback whales as they gather and feed. He couldn’t give us 100% certainty that we’d see whales but he did say the likelihood was fairly high. Uh yeah, I’d say so.

I got to experience some whale exhale breath condensate … better known as whale snot. There are scientists that go Gaga over this stuff. Can you just allow me to say, “Ew!” They even fly drones into the plume of breath a whale gives off from its blow hole to get samples. These drones are called SnotBots … seriously, they are. It was cool but … gag me. Had the ones we saw been Sperm Whales we might have been able to go bonkers over some ambergris or … whale vomit. People go nuts over the strangest things in life.

So anyway, how Benny and I got to experience the joy of whale snot is that we were toodling along, trying not to push too hard and leave our tour companions behind. Lev was in another kayak with some guy that was happy to do the paddling if Lev would share some photos. All of a sudden this female whale surfaces about twenty feet from our kayak and heads our way. I’m paying more attention to not turning over and backing up than I am to the whale. I look up and there’s this eye and I swear there was a prank just about to happen shining through. Then she blows, exhales, whatever you want to call it and I am covered in this gag inducing, rotten fish, stench.

Benny starts laughing hysterically, I mean he’s got an awful case of the 6-year-old-boy giggles. See, the lady whale was nice enough to miss him. Me on the other hand? Yep. I’m covered. I don’t drop my oar but it was a near thing.

“What are you laughing at Squirt?”

“You … you stink … Aunt Gus. Did it get in your mouth?”

Well I hadn’t been thinking about that until he asked. I made an awful face. I know I did because Lev recorded it for posterity. He also recorded the whale flipping everyone off with her tail … and washing me off in the process. I know she was laughing at me right before she dived. I know it.

Everyone was jealous. I’m sitting in the kayak trying really hard to maintain my composure and they’re jealous. Un-freaking-real. And that was all before lunch.

Lev and our guide asked me quietly if I was okay.

“Yeah. Good thing I brought a second t-shirt in a dry bag because I am soaked under this gear.”

The guide looked a little concerned. “Are you cold?”

“Not hypothermia cold but this sure isn’t sunny Florida.”

We beached the kayaks for a lunch stop on shore. It wasn’t safe to go too far inland due to the possibility of bears. Couldn’t go too far up or down the beach due to colonies of Stellar sea lions either. Lev provided me cover so I could quickly skinny out of the kayak gear and the soaked t-shirt underneath. I had over dressed and had a hydro skin short-sleeved top and capris and I’m glad I did. I rung out the really soaked items and then tossed them in a zippered wet-bag. The only concern I had was my hair which was dripping wet and starting to look like long poodle fur. Where the heck these curls are coming from at this stage of my life is ridiculous. I tied my hair up in a bandana the best I could and just carried on.

I sat away from the others while we ate because the whale might have rinsed me off, but I still smelled though thankfully not as bad as the first blow. Later, after getting back in the kayaks I saw something torpedo underneath us. Holy crap, sharks never bothered me as much as that pod of orcas did. I swear one of them had “psycho killer eyes.” Cold, cold, cold. Let me say again, holy crap.

Benny was the youngest in the group and really enjoyed the guide we had. Later he told me Benny asked more thoughtful questions than many adults did. In return I told the guide, Benny was able to ask such questions because of the guide’s effort to share his knowledge. I will record verbatim some of what we learned today.

Every year, thousands of humpback whales migrate more than 3000 miles from Hawaii to Alaska. They spend winter in tropical waters for mating and calving, and then make the 4 – 8-week voyage to temperate and polar waters in Alaska during the summer to feed and rebuild their blubber supply. Point Adolphus is a popular feeding area for the Alaska humpback and a popular place for travelers to get a glimpse of these enormous mammals.

Whales have always held a certain fascination for folks – if not a little fear – because of their sheer size. Part of the attraction of whales is their playful nature. Humpbacks are acrobatic and can put on a spectacular show of “breaching” – lifting their entire body out of the water while slapping their fins on the way back down. Sometimes they perform a spin move in the air, sometimes they spout air or sometimes they slap their “flukes” or tails with a huge splash. They’re entertaining. And they even sing. Yep. Humpback whales, especially the males, are known for their singing. During the breeding season, males sing the longest, most complex song in the animal kingdom. The song can last 20 minutes.

Humpbacks are the fifth largest of the great whales. They’re so named because of the distinct “hump” that shows as the whale arches its back when it dives. Alaska Humpback Whales are “baleen” whales. Instead of teeth, they have between 270-400 baleen plates, which hang from their top jaw. They feed by taking large gulps of water (a gulp can be 1500 gallons of water). Humpbacks use a hunting technique called “bubble netting.” They swim in a spiral beneath a school of fish or krill (a small shrimp-like crustacean) blowing lots of bubbles. This creates a “net” of bubbles that traps a giant mass of krill. They then swim up through the center with their mouths wide open. The baleen plates act as filters for the fish and krill.


So, don’t tell me that whale didn’t know exactly what she was doing when she blew snot on me and then washed it off in an even “funnier” maneuver. Ha. Ha. She was out to prank the human whether anyone else admits it or not.

Benny collected the following Humpback Whale facts for his Junior Ranger task.
  • The average male is 40-48 ft long
  • The average female is 45-50 ft long
  • They can grow to between 25-40 tons
  • Life expectancy is 45-50 years
  • Pregnancy period is 12 months
  • Babies are fifteen feet at birth and weigh 1.5 tons (holy crap!)
  • Babies drink, on average, 63 gallons of whale milk a day (super holy crap! And I thought Benny went through formula. Geez.)
  • An adult male humpback whale has two lungs – each the size of a small car

The best time for whale viewing in this area is between May and August. We are in the middle of prime viewing, and it shows because all of the whale watching tours are booked solid with only a few token spots here and there that will cost anyone that wants them a supersized ticket price.

Lev and the team were taking pictures and film all over the place. I tried to keep Benny and I out of their way by walking with Benny to the park’s visitor center. It was very rustic. Because of the amount of daylight this time of year, and because it is on the second floor of the Lodge, the visitor center has extended hours and it was pretty busy as we were looking at all of the exhibits. There was also a NatGeo bookstore in there. There are so many things I could have purchased in there, but Gus was a good girl. I stuck to some postcards and a recycled bag that had all the patches for the various park areas in Alaska[1].

I nearly jumped a mile when my phone buzzed. It was Lev checking on us.

“You ready to head back?” I asked.

“I hate to pull you away. I can get a lift with …”

“No. Uh uh. We’ll meet you at the van. Let me finish paying for these postcards and we’ll be right there.”

“You don’t need to …”

Benny and I finished our business then made a beeline back. “I was trying to say you didn’t need to rush.”

“Nope. But you do need some time to edit and stuff and waiting around on us doesn’t get that done.”

“Er …”

“And no, I’m not cranky … at you or anyone else. I can just smell myself and I need to rinse out the t-shirt so the smell doesn’t become permanent.”

“Oh.”

“Yeah. Oh. So you might want to roll your window down if it doesn’t let in too many bugs.”

Lev could finally tell that I really wasn’t upset so he felt free to give a few chuckles. He also admitted to being hungry. He wasn’t the only one.

Just to prove I could give and not just get, I made the version of gluten-free lobster roll[2] that I’d gotten the recipe for all the way back during our time in Maine. Lev was one happy camper, especially after he discovered the only thing gluten-free they were serving in the Air BnB was a plain salad. I was going to make some popcorn so he could have something to much on so he wouldn’t be tempted with any of the other stuff but he said, “No. Cause some of them don’t have any boundaries and would be snacking out of my bag and that’s our popcorn. If they can’t be bothered to have gluten free stuff for us, well ….”

“Deep subject. I’m going to make some for Benny. I’ll bag some up for you and you can either eat it tonight or save it for tomorrow.”

No clue what time Lev is going to drag in. I know he’s over in the house, just no idea what all they are doing besides “editing.” But it no longer sounds like they are editing. It sounds like they are playing. And I’m glad I have Benny as an excuse not to socialize with them. I’m starting to feel like I’m back in high school and dealing with the mean kids. How stupid is that? Especially since a couple of them are twice my age.



[1] Medium Recycled Bag Alaska Wildlands
[2] Simple Gluten Free Lobster Roll
 

sssarawolf

Has No Life - Lives on TB
So glad I checked Back :applaud::eleph::eleph:

Clothes are in the washer, a late breakfast of French toast, sausage and eggs made and left overs put away. Dh power washed the front ramp and clipped suckers off the bottom of the maple tree and etc. I couldn't even see the driveway through them anymore.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________
July 27th – Boat Day Trip in Glacier Bay

I saw a freaking glacier today! Several of them in fact! Fine, it was from a 149-passenger, high-speed catamaran but, real … live … glaciers. Sure, Benny and I have hiked across a few small ones but nothing like the monsters we saw today. And they were calving. That means bits of them were breaking off and crashing into the water. The kind of breaking off and big splashes that make you go, “Oh Crap!” Especially when you are that close to them.

The tour encompassed the west arm of Glacier Bay National Park. The crew had a naturalist aboard who explained all things “nature-y” so that even someone Benny’s age could understand without talking to us like we were a bunch of hard of hearing children.

For Benny and I … and Lev … the early hour we had to get up was just normal-ish. Some of the other team members were obviously not morning people. I would have thought they would be on about “the morning light” or stuff like that. I mentioned it to Lev who shrugged with a chuckle but still explained it to me without treating me like an idiot. “Every photographer has their own personal preferences. But what you need to remember is a lot of the team aren’t into film shoots. Some, like Chan and Diego, are sound and other digital things. A couple of them do drones; 3D, 4K, and even 4D for the theaters. I’m one of the few that still does strictly old school.”

Gretchen slunk … er … strolled by and smiled intimately and said, “I finally brought him into this century. He used to develop his own film.”

“He still does,” I told her. “It is just digitally.” Deciding to avoid her just in case I started wanting to bash her head in I asked Lev, “What do you do when batteries run out?”

“Ha! Finally, someone gets it.” He gave me a huge approving smile. In my peripheral vision I watched Gretchen turn and walk away … sashay away as Grandma Barry would have said … swinging her back end like she either was looking for attention or looking to get kicked in the can.

Of course it made my day when Benny asked loud enough for several other team members to hear, “Why is she walking like a duck? She’s going to get a hole in her pants making them go scritch-scritch-scritch like that.”

My voice was an octave higher than normal when I answered, “Don’t know Little Bear. Let’s go check our packs one more time.”

I hurried away but I wasn’t the only one trying not to laugh. Lev and Diego both looked like they were trying to hold in some painful gas. I thought Bob’s exit towards the trailer with all the electronics on it was faster than normal as well.

It is about ten miles between the BnB and Bartlett Cove and it took about thirty minutes to drive it. No, I’m not kidding. I guess everyone expected the van to be the problem vehicle, but it turned out to be the trailer and they are going to leave it behind next time. They’re just going to have to plan for as many contingencies as possible and bring their gear in their lap. The high clearance and 4x4 of the Ark was perfect for the road.

The boat departed from the dock promptly at 7:30 am. We weren’t the first ones there, but we weren’t the last either. Thank goodness because it would have sucked to have missed the boat. Most of the team was staying on shore, thankfully Lev came with us or there might have been an incident since Gretchen and another woman named Huntley were two of the team that boarded with us. I’m sorry, I just don’t care for Gretchen – and yeah I’ll be honest and admit that I’m sure some of it is jealousy for her previous relationship with Lev – and Huntley is her shadow and idolizer and likes poking the Gus Bear for some reason.

Apparently, Gretchen is well known in their circles, but count me clueless. I’d never heard of her, her vlog, seen her social media channel, or heard of her family which are also big deals in certain circles. All those strikes against me. Wonder I could come out of the morass of depression because Miss Thang decided I just wasn’t of any value. Guess I just don’t get out enough in the world. Hmph. Sorry for the snark but those types of people are just not the center of the universe I live in. If they wanna live that way in their own ‘verse then go on ahead, no skin off my nose. Just don’t expect me to pine away because I don’t know who you are. I have enough trouble keeping up with my own stuff and family lineage.

Lev pulled me to the side and said, “Ignore her.”

“Have I said anything?”

“No. But I can tell she is messing with you, and it is impacting your mood and even though you are making it good for Benny …” He sighed. “This is going to sound selfish as hell but … here goes. We’re here on assignment to show what a great place the Alaskan national parks are. You come here. You get away from it all. You rejuvenate and … all the other crap you read in the broadsides. I am asking you, personally and professionally, to forget about Gretch. She’s being a pain in the ass for whatever reason. Her ego is the size of a football field and in this industry she’s earned it.”

“She’s a cougar that is looking to claw up another headboard,” I said looking off at what should have been a gorgeous coastal beach where a bear was “playing” with something it had just pulled up out of the water. Instead all I could see was Gretchen getting pictures that Lev wasn’t because he was babysitting me.

I sighed. “I’ll try. I know I’m not being reasonable …”

“Are you kidding? Diego wanted to place a bet on how long you would last against her. Something else is going on … and not to blow my own ego up … it isn’t because she’s looking for some flavor of the day. She and Kent are supposed to be together though rumor has it she is holding out on him.”

“Holding out on him?”

“Er … you know what I mean.”

I snorted and finally decided to grow up instead of playing mean girl victim. “Thank you.”

“For?” he asked honestly confused.

“Just for being you and being willing to ask for what you need. I don’t always get social clues.”

“Ha! Social clues. How about we just say that you don’t follow the crowd and have a tendency to kick butt and not worry about names. It has worked for you up to this point. Um … just let me help here and there. I had to learn the hard way not to let people like Gretch … hell, not to let Gretch herself … interfere with me while I was on assignment. And that sounded …”

“… like what I needed to hear. So you can relax. Gus won’t go nuclear and toss the alley cat overboard. It might create a situation. I can’t promise not to consider it if she starts targeting Benny,” I warned. “But I’ll try and come to you first.”

“Me. Or Bob. He’ll see it.”

“And he probably thinks I’m acting like a prima donna right now.”

“No. If he has a problem he’ll approach you and deal with you straight forward. And he knows what Gretch can be like. She’s worse than normal for some reason. But that isn’t our problem so let’s not let her try and make it out to be.”

“You remind me of Lawrence.”

“Uh …”

“Not the brother factor. He … filtered things for me the first year I came to live with him. He was a great big brother. But he did more than filter. He helped me to find my ability to change perspective.”

“And that’s a good thing. Right?”

“Sure is.” I took a deep breath and then admitted. “There are days that I’ve needed it and not had it. Life got hard and confusing and though I’ve tried and mostly succeeded, life would have been better with someone that I … could trust. I filter things for Benny and I’m teaching him coping skills to deal with stuff. But the adulting world …”

“Hey,” he said softly. “It’s okay to be different. The different you are … it makes me …”

Bob startled us both by clearing his voice. He smiled in understanding but said, “Break time is over. They said on the loudspeaker they are going to try and get a little closer to shore for pictures.”

I turned and then wasn’t happy to find that Benny was further away from me than I expected. I gave the Barrymore chirp to catch his attention and he came back quickly. “Aunt Gus, did you see it?! It was an orca! They said they don’t usually get them here. We got lucky.”

I made a face, one more point against letting someone distract me from what I am supposed to be doing. You miss the stuff going on right in front of you. “Show me,” I asked him. “Lev was giving me some instructions and … kablooey … I missed it.” He was happy to show me where and I think the remainder of the day went well.

The glaciers were of the type called “tidewater glaciers.” We also got an eye full of towering snow-capped mountains, pristine coastline, and spectacular wildlife … whales, seal lions, rare birds, black and brown bears, seals, eagles. Yeah, I’m paraphrasing some of the brochures and tourism posters, but I can’t say it any better than that. Trying to do so has only led to an excess of adjectives and exclamation points that I’ve had to backspace over. And the crew and staff were great, making sure there were opportunities and space for Benny to be able to see over the railing and making sure that Benny and Lev’s special diets had options to choose from.

“Whoa, how did they know?” Lev asked, having come prepared with a meal bar.

“Because it was a question on those forms I filled out online per Bob’s instructions. Didn’t you even read them?”

“Er … kinda trusted you to do all the filling out and filling in stuff. Like in Florida.”

I didn’t know whether to roll my eyes or hide my blush. Seriously. The guy is just … something. I haven’t got a word for it … yet. Most days I feel like a Den Mother. But there are those moments that … er … yeah, not sure what to call it but I’ll admit I’m getting more comfortable with it. I’m not sure I am ready to call it anything to be honest, but I’ve decided, at least for now, that’s okay too.

The meal was your choice of a hot drink, clam chowder, a sandwich, and chips. Gluten sensitivity has become so common that alternative recipes have become just as common. The clam chowder was really good. I couldn’t tell that it was gluten free. The guy serving it said, “Trust me. My wife makes this and I eat it all the time. If it wasn’t gluten free, I’d be locked in the head or hanging over the railing and completely useless.”

“Good to know. You think she’d share the recipe?”

“We have postcards at the bar. It is one of the white ones … think it is the one with red ink.”

The sandwich was also gluten free, and the bread tasted as good as the homemade stuff I occasionally make. Little dry but I cured that with some condiments that were also marked gluten free.

I’m glad we dressed warmly so that I could have Benny out on deck to his heart’s content. His cheeks and nose were rosy but that’s mostly because he sweated off more of the sunscreen than I anticipated. When we were at the head of the bay near the glaciers, it was even colder, and the boat was fast so it was very windy on deck even in warm and clear weather. They provided maps, binoculars, and a park ranger which really thrilled Benny. And the ranger got a kick out of him in return. He always waited his turn while the other kids (and yes there were other kids) got so over excited a few times that they nearly had the poor guy pinned to the railing.

Midway through the day, the catamaran arrived at the faces of the Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers. Kowabunga! The two towering masses of ice and snow rise 245 feet above the ocean and stretch another 100 feet beneath the water. That was a little freakin’ awesome to contemplate. The ice that calves from the face of the two glaciers is an average of 200 years old - so in a way, watching the ice break off the glaciers is like watching the passage of time. That’s about as philosophical as I was inclined to get but my brain was on overload and that’s a fact.

We got back to the dock at 3:30 pm but the day wasn’t finished. Some of the team wanted to head back and Gretch said they’d take the van since it would hold more people. I tensed up immediately but Lev said, “No.” Gretchen just blinked like she’d never heard the word before. I don’t know where it would have gone from there, but Bob stepped in and started asking if everyone had gotten all the shots and etc. on their lists. Apparently not and he took most of them off to discuss what wasn’t “in the can” while instructing Lev to get the rest of what they’d discussed.

I mentally shrugged. Lev and I are friends but he is also my “boss” somewhat since I am here to do a job and he has seniority. So long as Benny got a little downtime if needed, I was good to go whenever.

“You mind?” Lev asked.

“Mind what?” I asked, confused.

“We have more shots to get.”

“You Tarzan. Me Jane. Cheeta can sleep on the way back to the BnB so tell me which vine to swing from.”

“Ha!” Then his laugh turned into a grimace. “Don’t let me ask for too much.”

I grinned. “Relax will you? I know how to say no. And we’re having fun. Aren’t we Benny?”

“This … is … soooo … coooooool,” he said looking around like his head was on a swizzle stick.

I rolled my eye’s in Lev’s direction who relaxed again and laughed. “Fine. Just make sure no one takes advantage of you, and that includes me. You’re new to this,” he said, briefly holding up his camera. “When we, the rest of us I mean, get in work mode we don’t always pay attention.”

“I don’t think that is the problem. I think Bob wants more work.”

“He can want it, but it still needs to be constructive and reasonable. It is his job to keep us going, but …” He shrugged and let it go. “Let’s head over to the Huna Tribal House.”

I read the park brochure to Benny. The Huna Tribal House is the most unique and important element of a visit to Glacier Bay. It is a place where the story of reconciliation is being played out right now. In Glacier Bay, the Huna Tlingit are collaborating with the park service to build opportunity for Huna Tlingit people on their land. This is a unique and collaborative effort, and while certainly not complete, it’s movement in the right direction and incredibly hopeful and beautiful. There are regular interpretive programs (check the schedule in the visitor center at the lodge) led by Huna Tlingit Cultural Interpreters. Even with all of Glacier Bay’s natural beauty, wildlife and solitude, this is one of the biggest highlights of a visit to Glacier Bay National Park. I was so grateful for the opportunity to learn about Huna Tlingit culture and witness this breathtaking art, both in and on the Tribal House as well as the totem poles.

“But what does that mean?” Benny asked.

“In a nutshell? Glacier Bay National Park is the ancestral homeland of the Huna Tlingit. They lived on this land for hundreds of years. You remember me telling you about the Little Ice Age in the 1700s at some of the other national parks? Well, it happened here too, and all the Huna Tlingit got run out of the area because it was too cold for them to live here. After the Little Ice Age backed off, the Huna Tlingit came back and re-established their homes. The problem is that by then a lot of things had changed. In the end, the US decided to protect this land because it is so beautiful and unique but that caused other problems. The government and the park system are trying to compromise and help the Huna Tlingit protect their culture and way of life by contracting with them to build the tribal house and totems so they have a special place to show their skills off and teach other people about them.”

“Uh … does it work?”

“Aren’t you asking about them and learning stuff by looking at the buildings and the exhibits?”

“Yeah.”

“Then it is working.”

“But what about the angry man?”

A protestor had gotten beyond, or been allowed to get beyond, the normal boundaries and was proclaiming that the government is hurting the native peoples of the area and a few other political things.

“Because not everyone agrees and that’s just how life works. But enough people agree with the way things are being done that it works for now.”

A little deep for a six-year-old but I wasn’t much older than him when I had to start learning how life worked. How depressing is that?

All good things must eventually come to an end and that includes good days. We returned to Gustavus without three of the team members who are camping in Bartlett Cove to get some additional video and record some sounds.

Lunch had been provided on the boat, and I’d provided a snack afterwards. I also brought peanut butter and some cheese snacks because Diego was with us. He seemed a little stiff at first but good thing because his glucose dropped lower than normal right before we were to head back. I let Lev handle it, but Diego came later and asked about my training, and I told him and we compared notes. His first career was being an EMT.

Lev is in the BnB working on storyboarding the next couple of days. Something tells me all is not well. The Director and Producer are grumpy. I don’t know if that is their perpetual state of being or if it is something in particular. I told Lev if it is something that Benny and I can do to just be upfront and let us know rather than protecting us. He said, and I quote, “Don’t worry about it.” So, it is something but hopefully not something about us. Either way I’m going to deal with it and try and keep my shorts from getting bunched up like I did on the boat today.

Though … I don’t think Miss Thang knows quite how hot the fire is that she’s messing with. She may have ten years of experience on me, but I bet I can still take her. “Ha!” as Lev would say. I’m just stoking my own fantasy life. I’m going to be a good little employee. And even if Lev and I never get around to figuring out what this is between us, or if we do and it goes nowhere, I owe him big time. First for Florida where he made things a lot easier than they might have otherwise been. And then getting me this job so I could provide some support for Benny (and adventure) while I figure out what else I am supposed to be doing with my life.

When I look too far into the future I don’t feel rudderless exactly, but I feel like I’m trying to explore the world without a map with an all-enveloping fog on all sides moving forward. That might work for some people, but I’m not sure that it is possible to have it work for me. Especially not with a kid to take care of and raise.

Resources:
Gluten Free New England Clam Chowder - What the Fork (whattheforkfoodblog.com)
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________

July 28th – Hiking and More in Glacier Bay​


Yesterday was glaciers. Today was hiking. Might have seemed boring in comparison but gotta say nope, not at all.

During our hikes I had to watch for bears, moose, hypothermia, giardia, tides, and even the poisonous bane berry. For all the “be careful of’s” that I was given by our guide I still have to say that I really enjoyed getting back to some serious hiking. We didn’t do nearly as much of that during the “Florida Assignment” as Lev calls it. And in all honesty the hikes today weren’t terribly challenging. But there’s nothing to complain about because … we’re in Alaska!

First trail we did was called the Forest Trail. It was only a mile long and only took us about half an hour. It was a loop-trail that took us through both the temperate rainforest … yes, I said rainforest … and the beach environments of Bartlett Cove. We started at the front of the Lodge where we picked up the guide. I thought he was checking out our capabilities until he said, “I read your blog.”

“Uh … you do?”

“Yeah. My sister has EGID.”

Benny, always interested in such things in other people asked, “What’s that?”

I told him, “It is a gastrointestinal disorder. Sort of like what you were tested for when you were small. Cells misbehave in the parts of her body that process the food she eats and gets things enflamed.”

He made a concerned face and told the man, “Oh. She has an audioeemoon disease. That’s not good. Is she okay?”

The man smiled in surprise, tried not to chuckle at his pronunciation, and answered, “Better now that we are getting a handle on it. She was eleven when they diagnosed her. She’s sixteen now. And … watching you and your aunt travel around the country gave her enough confidence that she’s spending the summer with my other sister and I instead of just staying at home like she has for the last few years.” He turned to me and said, “Last couple of years have taken a lot out of my parents. Carra is my father’s daughter.”

I got the silent communication that Carra was her father’s whoopsie that was being raised by his wife, Harden’s mother. Harden being the name of our guide.

A little hesitantly he asked, “I … er … hate to ask but I told her that you were going to be at the park today. If she makes it here, do you think you can just maybe say hello?”

Benny was starting to bounce on the balls of his feet and giving me a hopeful look. I glanced at Lev who acted like he didn’t know why I’d be asking him. He and I needed to have a talk about chain of command. I’m not the captain of this ship. Rather than delay I said, “I don’t mind, and Benny obviously wants to say hello. But instead of pushing us on her, how about we see what she wants once she gets here. Reality may not measure up to whatever she might be thinking.”

Harden grinned. “Sure. That’s sounds good. She’s lost a lot of self-confidence and she was already a shy kid to start with.”

We commenced with our hike. The trail surface varied between dirt, gravel, and the occasional bit of boardwalk to stay out of the mud. There was a quiet nook where a couple of benches created a viewing platform of sorts and I had Benny listen to the sounds of the spruce/hemlock forest and try to identify them.

Once we got back to the lodge Lev asked, “Little Bear need a pit stop?”

“Yes, please,” he said grateful not to have to go to the women’s restroom with me. I had a feeling he’d come back with something from the gift shop. Lev is going to spoil him rotten and leave me having to figure out how not to hurt either of their feelings when I clean up the mess left behind as a result.

Sure enough, they came back and I watched Benny’s face and then turned to Lev. He said, “Geez, it is just a deck of nature cards. One side is the animal, and the other side are facts about it.”

“Uh huh. Guess who just volunteered to help Little Bear read and memorize those cards?”

“I can do that,” he said reminding me of a hound that had thought he was going to get kicked but instead is given a new chew toy to play with.

I rolled my eyes and about that time a fragile looking girl walked up looking uncomfortable. “Um … I hope that … uh …”

“Hi! I’m Little Bear … but you can call me Benny ‘cause you have to watch what you eat too!”

“In … door … voice,” I told him.

He looked contrite and then asked Carra, “I didn’t scare you did I? Sometimes I forget. I’m sorry.”

She smiled. “You’re fine. Sometimes I forget and turn my radio up loud enough to run Harden and Suze out of the house.”

“Wow. That’s loud.”

The woman beside her said, “Yes. It is.” She chuckled. “Hi. I’m Susan.”

I responded, “Nice to meet you.”

Turns out that Carra really wanted to look at the Ark. “If I grow up I want to have a place like that. I might not be able to live on my own all the time, but with a van I can at least have some independence. A place that is mine to take care of and stuff.”

Since there was time and it wasn’t far, I gave in to her curiosity. I asked, “I won’t try and change your mind but something else you might want to look at is a Tiny House that you leave on wheels. It can be towed to different locations and …”

“Oh yeah! They’re really cool,” she said enthusiastically if quietly.

We talked for a little bit then it became obvious that Carra was giving out. She said goodbye but seemed in good spirits nonetheless.

“Thank you,” Harden said after his sisters had left and we walked back towards the Lodge.

“For?”

“Just treating her normally. Most people don’t understand and treat her like she is made of glass or like a bomb about to go off. The medications and dietary restrictions play havoc with her behavior.”

“Not to mention she is a sixteen-year-old girl and even under normal circumstances that would mean you were living with a bipolar grizzly on some days.” He had a hard time not laughing. I said, “Trust me. I get it. Lived it, just for different reasons and less excuse. Your biggest job right now is the same one my big brother had … don’t let her give up.”

“Uh …”

“She said ‘if’ I grow up, not when.”

“Caught that did you.” I could hear his concern. “Mom and Dad … they …”

“Were grieving when there wasn’t any real reason for it yet?”

He blinked in surprise at my understanding. “Yeah. How …?”

“I’ve watched other parents go through the same thing when it finally sinks in that their kid is different and won’t ever be exactly what they expected or dreamed of. It can happen for a lot of different reasons. I don’t remember it, but my brother told me that my Dad went through it. I’m pretty sure he thought I’d be living with him the rest of our lives. I was real young when diagnosed with the alphabet soup they hung on me and that it wasn’t anything a diet could fix.” I shrugged. “I had friends in school, one in particular, whose parents still struggle to let him be who he is – and he’s bloody brilliant – but he isn’t what you would call normal and because of that they grieve for what he’ll never be instead of being thankful for who he is. He’s kind, can make computers do obscenely amazing things, demonstrative … but it is a long shot for him to ever have a traditional nuclear family of his own. And of course that makes them worry for him in case, or when, something happens to them. He’ll be alone … or maybe not. Life is full of surprises.”

“I don’t even know if my parents have gotten that far in their processing yet. They’ve been so concerned with Carra’s health that they didn’t take care of their own. Dad decided he needed to get Mom out from under everything he asked of her for so long … she scared the hell out of us earlier this year after developing pericarditis. They thought it was a heart attack for a while and Dad … you know you are too easy to talk to.”

I nearly burst out laughing. “Well you have to be one of the only people on the planet that feels that way. I’ll take the compliment anyway. I think you just needed to talk to someone that has, and is, walking a similar road. You tried a support group?”

“Suze, my sister, is a traveling nurse. And she said pretty much the same thing. Since that is two votes for, I’ll look into it.”

For the next trail we were going with a group of other people from the Lodge so our conversation became less personal. This trail was called the Bartlett River Trail and was four miles round trip. Since we were going with a group the hiking time was longer than I expected.

The trail meandered along what Harden called an intertidal lagoon and through the spruce/hemlock forest before emerging and ending at the Bartlett River estuary. Benny was playing “animal bingo” and keeping a list. We heard coyotes but we saw moose, a bear (from a distance), saw sign of a bunch more, and even got to see a curious river otter along the beach. There were ducks, geese, and other birds as well. There were so many salmon that I could have played bear and caught my limit even without a pole. Of course, that meant harbor seals and man were those guys noisy.

After that hike we did a little tidepooling by exploring the beach. Lucky for us it was low tide. The only thing I had to do was watch for seals and bears … and all the other hungry and bitey things that might mistake Benny for a snack.

It started to rain so the day came to an end a little earlier than expected. Getting back to Gustavus was not fun and the van basically got a mud bath for its complexion. But I suppose it stood out too much when it was clean.

“Are you crazy?!” Lev asked, laughing as he ran out of the BnB to check on us.

“Maybe,” I answered him as I was dressed in my rain pants, jacket, and was scrubbing the van as it poured.

“It’ll just get dirty again.”

I sighed and allowed as how it might be more comfortable out of the rain and moved to stand under the canopy with him.

“You sure you two are okay out here? They have a fire going inside.”

“It’s tempting but Benny is sleeping …”

“He okay?” Lev asked in concern.

“Yeah. It’s just the rain after all that fresh air. You know he did pretty well with that girl Carra.”

“You didn’t think he would?”

I sighed. “Sometimes I worry about his socializing skills.”

“Oh that. I wouldn’t worry. He seems fine.”

“Not with kids his own age.”

“Or maybe just not with the kids his own age that he’s met. He did pretty good with James Lee.”

“I suppose, though James Lee was most of the reason he did so well. Hey, are you going to eat with us or inside tonight?”

“Here. That’s why I left. They are eating pizza.”

I could see how irritated he was. “Well they don’t get any of your pizza.”

“Wait … whut?”

“C’mon. It’s not a perfect substitute, but it isn’t just the rain that made Benny sleepy.”

Okay, maybe I’m overstating it a bit, but Lev was a happy camper. You take a gluten-free tortilla and use that as your “crust” and then top it however you want it. For Lev I even opened a small can of black olives.

“Mmm mmmmm mm. Geez this is good,” he moaned. “Thanks.”

“No problemo. Er … Bob is out on the porch. I think he is looking for you and trying to decide if it is worth getting wet.”

“Gotta go.”

He sounded just like Benny when he said it and then took off, slipping and sliding. I was wondering what to do with myself when Benny woke up just enough for me to encourage him to get in his nightclothes and that yes, he could build a tent for him and the Crew. The newbies were still “acclimatating” with everyone and a campout would be a good way to help. And yes, I wrote that in my notes to remember always. He may be a six-year-old boy, but even I think he is cute on occasion. He went back to sleep fairly quickly after that, and I pulled out the tablet and did some adulting.

Got an email from Meemo telling me what was going on along the river, including that there was some trouble over at Uncle Daniel’s when Fish & Wildlife brought home one of his grandkids who’d been caught hunting … with no supervision, with no license, and the worst, out of season. I tried not to care but it was impossible. All I could imagine was how upset my grandparents would be.

After that – and taking care of some bills with online banking – I outlined some blog posts but figure I’ll give it another day before I post them. I’ve learned to write and then leave it for a day before coming back to edit. No matter how many times I read something I wind up finding a mistake after posting. Homophones are from the devil, I swear they are.

Guess I should stop piddling around and do something constructive like add to Benny’s school portfolio. All I need is someone to try and give us a hard time from that direction. And I wouldn’t put it passed Gretchen encouraging someone to do the deed. And yeah, I’m wondering if that is my dislike showing or if it is a real suspicion I should have.

Resources:
Actaea rubra (Red baneberry) | Native Plants of North America (wildflower.org)
Webcams - Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________

July 29th – Kayaking at the Glaciers in Glacier Bay​


Incredible day. Also scary as heck after my adrenaline rush dumped. First off … kayaking. Kayaking and glaciers. Up close glaciers. Up close enough that when they calved Benny and I bounced around like a fishing bobber. Memories of a lifetime I kid you not. But we also were given an up close and personal example of why you follow the rules.

I probably bounced more than Benny this morning. And Lev seemed to get a kick out of it. “Aunt Gus you’ve got the wiggles!” Benny laughed.

“Sure do squirt. This is going to be epic. Sorry I had to nix bringing any of the Crew.”

“Oh that’s okay. They understood when you explained it to them. They don’t have the necessary experience for this kind of adventure. Especially the newbies.”

“Good. Maybe we can find something else they can come along on.”

His eyes lit up. “Really?!” Then they dimmed. “Can … can we do it without telling anyone else?”

“No secrets from Lev but it’s no one else’s business.”

“I didn’t mean Lev. I mean them people he works with.”

“Those people. And like I said none of their business.”

That satisfied him … and me … that I’d handled the situation correctly without destroying Benny’s enjoyment.

Combining a private tour of Glacier Bay National Park along with kayaking through the icebergs and to the McBride Glacier is definitely a once in a lifetime opportunity not many get to enjoy and one I was not going to miss even if it meant putting up with and using manners with some of the butthurt cowboys that Lev works with.

While you can paddle straight from the shores of Bartlett Cove a few days into the bay to reach the first glacier area, most people, including us, take a shuttle boat that does drop off and pick up services deep within the bay.

Departing Bartlett cove, we loaded the kayaks onto the boat and headed into the park. Soon leaving the main channel and the large cruise ships that plow the waters into the west arm of the park, we ventured into the less traveled east arm and got a chance to see the park with few other human travelers around. That isn’t to say there weren’t some, but you could really feel the solitude in the wide-open water. I’ve kayaked all over the Continental US by now, but I’d never felt anything even remotely like I was feeling then.

There were more of the traditional cruise ships than I think I’ve ever seen. It isn’t like it used to be where they were welcome at almost any port; only really rich people can afford them these days. But the big ones apparently still help keep some of Alaska’s economy rocking and rolling. There were also a lot of smaller ships and catamarans.

Had we headed west, we would have seen more tidal glaciers and newly exposed landscapes. Instead we headed east where there were deeper fjords with denser forests. We passed through many beautiful sights and the wildlife of the park, soon arriving at the entrance to the McBride Glacier where we anchored the boat and launched the kayaks.

Our timing was good, and we leisurely kayaked with the incoming tide through the ice, stopping often to explore the many shapes and brilliant blue colors of the floating ice past the harbor seals. Thank goodness I had gotten Benny the new sunglasses during the Cabela shop-a-looza. The sunlight banging off that blue ice was really intense. Mine almost weren’t up for it. An email from our guide warned us that due to ice flow with the tides we could get stuck in some areas for longer than expected. In addition to normal-ish stuff, I had added some emergency food for just in case, but put it inside a “smell proof” container that I’ve used in the past on hikes.

I’m quoting the guide here: “We will be traveling through the canyon walls left behind from the receding glacier and past the water cascading from the mountain into the bay to the magnificent Glacier itself. Staying a safe distance from the glacier we will wait to hear the thundering sounds of the ice falling from the glacier and crashing into the water. If this happens it will turn what was a calm bay into a washing machine of small waves as they bounce off the rocky sides of the canyon so please remain situationally aware at all times.”

I decided to treat it like the odd swells and unexpected waves that reefs can create when you are sea kayaking. I’ve kayaked on glass smooth water but more often you find yourself dealing with the pranks Poseidon and his denizens like to throw at humans. You learn, you live.

I wish I could describe what we saw but mere words are insufficient and as good as Lev is with that camera of his, the human eye and brain is really the only way to experience some things. When I gave it a try, it reminded me of those gawd awful poetry assignments I was forced to do in high school. I just feel inadequate but here goes …

Emerald green and topaz blue waters surrounded by glaciers cascading from towering mountain tops stretching straight into the sea. Bays filled with feeding whales, seals floating on icebergs, sea lions sunning themselves on rocky outcrops and bears searching the shoreline for their next meal are all common sights within the preserve.

I don’t know if I want anyone to read that bit of silliness. Just use your imagination. Another thing I learned today is that an area famed for ice means glacier making weather can occur. I was happy to have our dry bags, rubberized rain gear, serious thermal wear, neoprene booties, bear spray, enough food, water containers and gear to be alone and survive if the weather kept us stationary for a while. Also important was a waterproof chart of high and low tides and how high the shifts would be. By having that comfort, I didn’t worry so much.

While we didn’t camp, our guide taught us the safety protocols needed for such an activity. When camping near glaciers, constant calving can create large ice bergs or ice sheets that move with the currents under the glacier or tide flow, making it impassable. If you awake to a massive sheet of ice instead of clear placid waters, wait a few hours and that ice will have shifted with the changing tides.

The alone feeling in the remote bay filled me with the kind of quiet I rarely experience, however I wasn’t really alone. Not only were there other people (not to mention Benny and Lev) in our guided group, there were also other neighbors such as harbor seals resting on ice, smelly and noisy stellar sea lions, manically feeding humpbacks, soaring bald eagles, puffins, and sea otters munching on mussels. Our guide showed us bear, moose and wolf tracks near beach camp spots and reminded us why it is so important to follow the strict rules when camping near glaciers. Made me itch to give it a try, but not with Benny with me … at least not the first time.

The amount of wildlife in the Glacier Bay area was simply amazing. Our guide did not let us down and took us to one wonderful viewing area after another. We saw so many birds, not just eagles. We saw whales spouting and breaching, wolves playing on a beach, sea otters and of course the bears. Everyone can be a great photographer in Glacier Bay (sorry Lev!). And we were terrorized by these crazy oyster catcher birds, also known as Devil Birds and for good reason. We learned later they protect their nests fiercely, up to a range of 1 mile from the actual nest.

That was just the first part of our tour. Next comes the harder part. Well, not hard exactly but life gets real even in paradise.

One of the smaller cruise ships, designed specifically for glacier viewing, had gone into one of the ice canyons and we wound up in the same area. I had just heard the guide complaining about the new company getting a permit to do this when I noticed all the people on the upper deck railing. It caused me to look at the balconies as well just in time to see a man fall overboard. You could just barely hear his wife screaming. It was tinny, but I could hear it. Obviously so could people on the upper deck because there was quickly an uproar and people pointing.

Hypothermia. It is a killer. When you first go into extremely cold water there is this weird response called a cold shock response. People start to hyperventilate immediately. For one to three minutes you breathe very fast and deep, uncontrollably. If you go underwater, you could swallow water and die. Generally, a person can survive in 41-degree F water for 10, 15 or maybe at the outside 20 minutes before the muscles get weak, you lose coordination and strength, which happens because the blood moves away from the extremities and toward the center, or core, of the body. There are a lot of factors that play into hypothermia up to and even including whether someone is obese with a thick fat layer. All of that flew through my head and I knew that the crew of the cruise ship were unlikely to be able to respond in time. I turned the kayak and started paddling as if it was my life or Benny’s that was in danger.

It felt like I was flying over the water. Man I haven’t paddled like that in a long time. It felt like the thickness of the slushy water was actually helping me. Explain that one. However, even as fast as I reached him, he was already showing the effects. Benny helped me get the man out of the water and stabilized so that the rescue boat from the cruise ship could pick him up. He was shaking so bad there wasn’t a lot I could do except to keep him from falling back into the water. Lev got the entire incident on film but I found out later how very shaken he was. The man nearly tipped us over a couple of times in his panic.

The guides came in around us because the “slush” we were paddling through had some pretty good-sized chunks that were rippling around. A couple of sea lions also decided to get unnecessarily curious. My mouth fell open as usual and I did my own bit of barking. “Okay, knock it off you three. Go bother some other female and pup because I am too busy right now to find your attention flattering. I mean it. Your flippers aren’t big enough to warrant that much noise.”

I got a couple of barks like they were laughing at me, but they backed off when the boat from the cruise ship rescue boat arrived causing their own bit of bouncy-house-fun.

The man was transferred quickly and they took him back to the ship for some medical attention. I suspect at a bare minimum he’s got some seriously bruised ribs and potentially a concussion and shoulder injury. All of his extremities were moving so I don’t think he broke his back but you never know until all the CT scans are done. He didn’t fall from one of the highest balconies but it was still high enough. He was on a backboard with a neck brace before they even got him into the pontoon boat.

I wasn’t looking for attention or anything else but I did expect to at a minimum have to give a statement of some kind but nope. Nada. Bupkis. Then I made sure that Benny hadn’t gotten chilled and that’s when the guide asked me, “Are you sure you’re able to continue?”

I checked with Benny. “What about it Little Bear? And I want you to be honest.”

“The man is okay?”

“Probably not after his wife gets ahold of him but I would say mostly.”

The joke barely went over but I got a little grin.

“I want him to be okay but … but that’s not our job right? So … can we? I don’t want to miss anything.”

I looked at the two guides who’d already radio’d the group and nodded in the affirmative. I gave thumbs up to Lev who was paddling with another guide and Diego in case further assistance was needed. I had to use some muscles, but we didn’t really miss much, and what we did miss going in was covered on the way back out. I will admit that things passed in a bit of a blur but both Lev and Diego said they couldn’t tell I even had a curl out of whack.

“I need to. For Benny. And training. I have some. Going squirrely would have only given the hamster free rein. And then there was you to think about.”

“Me?” Lev asked quietly because he knew I didn’t want any attention over the matter after getting back on the “taxi” that picked us up to take us back to the dock.

“Yeah. I didn’t think. I just acted. Was good for the man. Necessary. Still impacted you and Benny.”

He daringly put his arm around me in public and surprise I didn’t freeze up. I’m glad I didn’t when Lev told me, “You keep being you Gus. Just keep being you.”

We are back at the BnB. Benny is already asleep and I’m debating it. Lev is in the BnB working out plans for tomorrow despite him being a little rattled in the aftermath. He told me to keep being me but I wonder. Had it just been me I think he would have been okay, but having Benny be part of the rescue didn’t mesh. Maybe I should have left it to someone else, but my training kicked in and Benny has always just been a part of what my brain calls crew. I need to be more careful. I had no business taking him into danger like that. Adventuring is one thing. Dragging him into a search and rescue operation is another thing completely.

Tomorrow is a travel day. One park down. Don’t know why I feel anxious. Reaction to this afternoon? Doesn’t really feel like it. I’m going to make sure all our “moving chores” are finished then I may just lay down and try and zone out and get rid of this feeling.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________

July 30-31: Gustavus to Slana, AK​


Sunrise/Sunset: 76F/53F
Weather: Rainy until Skagway then it turned into a truly beautiful summer day.

Driving in the States, even at the pace that we were going, is nothing compared to getting around here in Alaska. We woke up early on the 30th and Benny, Lev, and I were ready to go by 4 am. I’d even made overnight oatmeal and Benny and Lev had eaten. Benny crashed and burned in the booster seat because he got bored waiting for us to get on the road. I draped a blanket over him so he wouldn’t catch a chill. I was right there with him and getting irritated.

“Lev, I know I’m not in charge, but I thought the Producer made a point yesterday of saying that we needed to be on the road at first light.”

Lev snorted. “He did. That’s why there was a big firestorm of yelling … which you missed because you were stacking the wood pile to burn off the wiggles. Gear wasn’t packed up last night and ready to go this morning. Hooch and Dano should have camped here instead of staying at the park one last night. I know it is only 10 miles, but they had one of the vehicles that needed to be packed up. We normally have a shakeout dust up, but nothing like this. With jobs getting so hard to come by again, I can’t believe they aren’t taking things more seriously. I’ve known some of this team for ten years, I get some of them have time management issues, but this makes them look like a bunch of ‘tards.”

“You’ve been going solo a lot the last couple of years from what I hear.”

“Yeah. Easier. Cheaper.” I must have gotten a look on my face because he added, “Don’t. You and Benny are pulling your weight and are saving me money because I don’t have to give up part of my per diem or pay for living facilities. And trust me, my gut is happier than it has ever been. I …”

Bob, the director, and the producer slammed out of the BnB and headed our way.

“Hargis!”

“Wait here,” he asked me quietly.

A few minutes later Lev came back and said, “Let’s go.”

“Everything okay?”

“On our end. I have a feeling we might lose a team member or three.”

“Uh …”

“We’re going to head to Wrangell St. Elias on our own. The team will catch up. Depending, we may get there 24 to 48 hours ahead of them and we’re going to start filming without them. You okay with that?”

“You mean I get to travel at our pace with someone that has commonsense and doesn’t lollygag? Be still my heart.”

He laughed. “Ha!” Then he got serious again. “I’ve done this drive before. We’ll spell each other but it is still going to take seventeen hours if we drive straight through. You up for that?”

“No breaks?”

“We’ll take some. If we don’t, all three of us will suffer the wiggles from hell. I’ve got a call out to a friend along the route. And we are going to need to eat and fuel up. I also want to get some vids and stills for filler in case the director wants them.”

Concerned I said, “I wasn’t complaining.”

“I know. Just doing the logistics for Benny’s sake. Let’s just get going so we don’t miss the ferry.”

“For all our sake’s. Tickets?”

He nodded and held up a manila envelope. “Got everything here. Let’s review it after we get loaded. Is the ferry food get-at-able? I’ll put it in my pack. We’ll have to go on deck for the duration. Same as before.”

I could see he was anxious to get going. Some of the yelling I heard from the BnB was part of the reason I’m sure. Having already experienced the “joy” of traveling by ferry the first time around, I found it less stressful this time. I grabbed Benny and carried him, the dry bag the Crew was packed in, and a blanket to cover Benny with while Lev grabbed the backpack with the food and my day pack with what incidentals didn’t fit in the pack. I had our important papers and in there as well. As soon as we had claimed our chairs, I put Benny down and let him sleep some more. I think he is going through another growth spurt but I’m going to add another gummy vitamin just in case it is the cold or something else zapping his strength more than usual.

Lev and I settled, and I handed him a snack bar he could eat. He split it with me, and we got down to discussing things. “We’ll get off the day ferry in Juneau and switch to the mainland ferry route which will take us from Juneau up to Skagway. That’s … hang on,” he said pulling a piece of paper out of the envelope and holding onto it tight to keep the wind from ripping it away. “Three hours from here to Juneau. We have a six-hour layover in Juneau to pick up the next ferry which means if we need supplies that would be the time to get them. Once we are on the mainland ferry it will be four and a half hours to Haines, two-hour layover, and then an hour to Skagway. We’ll need something for warmth, but I don’t think we’ll need the tent or sleeping bags for this leg. Not worth setting up unless you need it for Benny.”

“No, he and I both should be fine so long as it doesn’t storm. I might look for a quiet corner, but we’ll deal one way or the other.”

“Good. I have a buddy that is staying in Skagway helping his aunt with some kind of textile store and we’ll stop there for the night. The Klondike Highway is not something you attempt to start at night when you are tired. Plus, I want to go over the van front to back and top to bottom one more time.”

I nodded and wondered why Lev had never shown this side before. I was getting glimpses of a man I could follow, maybe not without question yet, but I can see it like it is just beyond the horizon on a calm sea. What bothered me was me wondering if his lack of apparent self-assurance about anything other than his equipment and craft is my fault? Am I too bossy? I nearly asked him but then rethought it because this wasn’t the time for that kind of introspection and questions. We had an audience, and I understood quite an assignment ahead of us while we talked about supplies, logistics, and itinerary. Lev is the kind of photographer that makes all those pretty pictures online and, in the magazines, look effortless. The reality is that there is no small amount of work that goes into getting those “perfect pictures” and “memories of a lifetime.”

And let me tell you I was very glad that Lev had arranged things the way he had. He said we could have taken a ferry to Whittier and then the highway to Anchorage and entered the park from another entrance, but it wasn’t the one that we were doing the majority of the activities at.

We got off the ferry in Juneau and headed straight to the grocery. Parking was easier than it had been a few times in Florida because there were a lot of trucks and large vehicles in Alaska and parking spaces reflected that. Or maybe it was more the use of the space available by those with vehicles.

The prices still had me crossing my eyes, but it was good to restock and pick up some fresh items and restock some bulk items. Lev’s previous buying spree still had us full, but this one topped us off again and meant finding some new ways and places to store things. Lev and Benny can put away some food. I guess it is the cold weather, but I am sure that is only part of it. Both are people that just like to eat and need to for their metabolism. Check out was easy since we used my membership card and the self-checkout line. Then we got out of one line and into a different kind. Getting onto the ferry for the mainland route was easier than it had been at any other time – or maybe I knew the ropes or something - and boom we were off. Benny was feeling better thank goodness. But he had the wiggles which meant that Lev and I took turns walking around the deck with him.

And that first leg was almost five hours because it rained the entire time. Once again, thank goodness that Lev had insisted on such good gear and not the thrift store items that I had been going to settle for. And I’m glad we decided to bring the tent anyway once we realized what the weather was going to be like. In addition, he’d stuck in an extra tarp and some bunjies into the backpack which meant an extra layer of protection for the tent above and below. Glad I was to have them because the inside of the ferry was packed like sardines and not everyone had a care for their personal hygiene.

Our first stop was Haines, but we didn’t get off the ferry. One it was too late, and everything would have been closed. The truth however was that Haines is very rural and “everything” being closed while true, really didn’t touch on the fact that there wasn’t much to be open to start with. And of course there was the rain. We pulled out two hours on the dot of when we pulled in and from there it was only an hour to Skagway. It was still drizzling as we were docking but at least it wasn’t a downpour so we wrapped the tent and tarp together with the poles and used the bunjies to tie it off and keep it together and neat. Getting the van off the ferry was a little more exciting than I liked because a couple of cars had somehow come loose and had us blocked in. But finally we were all off.

Very early in the morning but Lev’s friend was already up as he was going fishing. I said to him, “If you want to go …”

“Uh uh. Got an email from Bob that the rest of the team is at least 24 hours behind us, emphasis on at least. They are having to retake some film because Mr. Director isn’t too happy with the quality and content of what there was. That means we have an extra day. You think you and Benny would like to take a train ride?”

So surprised I didn’t think before I let the following fall out of my mouth. “What? Seriously? We can do that?!” I must have sounded like Benny’s agemate rather than his aunt and adult caregiver.

For whatever reason Lev seemed really pleased at my reaction and that’s how we wound up spending four hours of our day in Skagway on the Whitepass Railroad going up to Frasier, BC and coming back to Skagway via a bus.

We just barely made the train station, but we got there and got seated right before the 7:40 am start time. The van stayed parked at Lev’s friend’s place so that was one less worry … parking. The friend’s aunt even took the tarp and tent and laid them out so they could dry. Talk about your nice people.

Anyway, we took the train up to Fraser B.C. and returned along the Klondike Highway, making a series of stops at some of the most incredible vistas. The original White Pass & Yukon Pass rail project was started in 1898 during the Gold Rush in Alaska. According to the story they piped through the rail cars At no time during the construction period were fewer than a thousand men employed, and the figure often reached 1,800 to 2,000. They worked in relays through the summer when daylight lasts virtually around the clock. It was quickly found that the native timber was almost worthless because it splintered too easily. As a result, every tie, every bridge timber had to be imported.

Not long after leaving the station we passed by our first sight … the grave of the city’s most notorious shyster, Soapy Smith[1]. I had to laugh a bit. I mean with a name like that how can you not turn out to be a notorious shyster; it is either that or an old-timey cartoon character. What I read about him though, he was really a bad guy, one typical of the frontier.

Other information that I managed to hear: For the first 20 miles out of Skagway the costs of constructions averaged $100,000 per mile, a staggering sum for that era. The first three miles along the Skagway River were relatively easy, costing just $10,000 each, but soon the difficult section near Rocky Point (milepost 7) was encountered, driving the cost per mile up to more than $125,000. At Porcupine Point a charge of 2,500 pounds of dynamite was detonated to blast off a huge slice of the mountainside, which fell with a deafening roar into the Skagway River below, changing its course. At Tunnel Mountain (milepost 15) workers were forced to lower themselves over a cliff on stout ropes, where there was scarcely footing for an eagle, in order to drill holes in the sheer rock and set explosive charges. A 250-foot tunnel had to be drilled here on the north side of a chasm, as the railroad ascended a grade of 3.9 percent. South of the tunnel Heney’s men stood on a narrow shelf which would soon support the railroad and gazed downward to the river more than a thousand feet below. Behind them, a mile downgrade, they could see the big loop above BridalVeil Falls, where an encampment known as “White Pass City” had sprung up near the railroad. At least 35 workers were killed in construction accidents before the line was completed.

Most of the highlights were geological in nature though there were a few other odds and ends; the White Pass Summit, "Welcome to Alaska" sign, Pitchfork Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, and Tormented Valley. We got some really good narration both going and coming back. Despite my best effort to focus, my APD was a little challenging to hear everything over the chugga-chugga of the train. I noticed that Benny wasn’t having quite the same problem. Makes me wonder if maybe he’ll grow out of it after all. Or at least maybe be able to “manage it into submission” except for the occasional incident. I hope so, it sucks and I’ve wondered on occasion recently if I would have been as successful as I’d hoped in the Navy. Maybe that was another reason that Lawrence wanted me to go to college and experience life a little more before enlisting, to look at other options. Guess I’ll never know and should stop worrying at it.

The views from the train were nothing short of amazing. We stood out on the platform between train cars a lot of the time so that Benny could see everything and so that Lev could take as many photos and film as possible. I asked him for a couple to put in Benny’s portfolio.

When he didn’t say anything I said, “Look, if you can’t because of copyright or whatever …”

“No! Er … no, I … uh …” He blinked a couple of times and then said, “You’d really use these for Benny’s portfolio? But that’s important stuff for the kid.”

I looked at him for a moment to see if I was hearing him right. The old APD and what have you. But I realized something right then.

“Lev, I value your work. And yes, I would want you to be part of Benny’s portfolio.”

“But that’s like permanent record stuff.”

I chuckled. “Yeah, it is. Permanent. Maybe I don’t say it like I should but … you are a part of Benny’s experiences and that will always be true. The pictures would be a nice way to document that.”

“Wow. I mean … yeah, of course you can use whichever ones you want.”

Lev is a real mixture. His personality has more facets to it than mine, that’s for sure. And not to sound conceited or anything but maybe I can help him heal those holes in some of his self-confidence. Because while he is a professional about his work, and that he’s been there for me in unexpected ways that I have really needed, there are some areas of his personal life that sure could use some first aid. Maybe that’s what I can do for him; but for my own comfort level it is going to have to be slow and steady.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________

July 30-31: Gustavus to Slana, AK (Part 2)​

The guy driving the bus that took us back to Skagway was really funny and even Benny liked him. It was interesting that our passports were required, but then again, we were passing into and out of Canada. We were back in Skagway about 11:30 and then walked for several hours in the amazing crowds of people, most of whom came from the two cruise ships that were docked practically in the middle of the small town.

Lev asked me, “Would you ever take a cruise?”

I chuckled. “Lev, my life was going to be one giant cruise for a while.”

“You were going to be in the Navy, I get that. I mean a cruise, cruise. As a vacation.”

“If you are talking about the Caribbean? Nope. Now if you are talking about the Med then yeah. I could take Benny to all the places we watch in documentaries on travel and just … places. Italy, Greece, Malta, Turkey …”

“Turkey?! You’re a woman!”

“Relax. I’m not talking about in-country. But seeing Ephesus and places like that would be cool.”

“Oh. I forget you were raised by people that went to church.”

I paused and then asked, “Is that a problem?”

“Huh? No. Definitely not. It just isn’t all that common these days.”

I suppose in his experience that was true. Meemo had mentioned there were fewer and fewer “young people” in her church that was my old church. Seems crazy. Lawrence insisted that Penny take Benny to church when he wasn’t there to do it. We went to the little community church around the corner from the apartment complex. My shipmates and cadet-mates and I always went to “chapel” as part of our activities at camp and that sort of thing. Makes me feel bad that I haven’t kept that up. Maybe I should. I liked church when I was a kid. Some of the kids didn’t necessarily like me but that was a different issue; I could be rough on people. And some people from the community church helped us get through the initial stages of when Lawrence didn’t come home. I wonder if I ever told them how much I appreciated that. Is it too late to at least send a note? Sigh. I know I count on that part of my “upbringing” for comfort and direction. I might not come right out and say it, but I know who the Creator is and all the rest of it. I want Benny to have that same confidence. What to do, what to do. This raising a kid isn’t nearly as easy as you’d think it would be.

Speaking of Benny Little Bear, Lev managed to find another surprise for him. This one I whole-heartedly agreed with. The Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park is one of the most different of the national parks that we’ve been to. I mean Benny and I have hit most of them and this one still stood out for being different. It’s basically a building in the middle of Skagway. If not for the “park theme” paint job and the huge NPS sign I’m not sure most people would even notice it. And those that do mostly just walk in, wander about for a few minutes, then walk out. Benny got to do most of the junior ranger activities right on site. And yes, even with it being last year a couple of the rangers on duty remembered “Aunt Gus and Little Bear.” They played the “guess who this is” photo game with Benny and I facing away from the camera while the rangers faced the camera. Even before we left, they were getting hits on their intranet post.

We were about to leave when one of the rangers walked up to Lev and asked a question, got a handshake and a nod.

Back outside I asked, “What’s up?”

“Rick says hello.”

“Rick.” Then it clicked, “You mean Rick Royston? He was moving to Costa Rica to be with his uncle and Rosa.”

“He said he is back in the States and to drop him a line.”

You drop him a line.”

Lev looked like he didn’t know how to respond for a moment before asking, “Er … you mad at him or something?”

“No. But I don’t want there to be any question that …” I stopped, embarrassed, and shrugged. To try and put it into words I added, “Chain of command. He wants an email you can do it. Is that the quilt shop your friend’s aunt works in?”

Lev took the change in subject with more grace than I did it with. I’ll be honest, I don’t know if I ever liked Rick or not. I think I did, but we never could get out of the friends lane and I’m glad we didn’t. I may not have made up my mind about Lev but I most definitely have about Rick and don’t want there to be any misunderstandings all the way around. If he is back in the states then … whatever. I’m tired of being confused and refuse to play the game. Maybe it is just a simple “hi” but he has my email and can contact me directly.

Not long afterwards Lev steered us away from the quilt shop – wouldn’t Lev drop his teeth if he knew that I can quilt (at least some easy stuff) courtesy of Grandma Barry and Meemo – and towards a huge shop. A souvenir shop. We spent a ridiculous amount of time in a giant souvenir store on one end of the main drag. Benny found t-shirts, in the same style, for all of us. Matching hats as well.

I started to say, “Benny …”

But for whatever reason Lev thought that was fantastic. We have not one, not two, but three sets of matching t-shirts … and two hats each.

“Lev …” I started to say, for all the good it did.

“C’mon. This’ll be great! Everyone will know we’re together,” he said with a huge grin that I was just not willing to dim.

“Fine. But stop spoiling us like this.”

He just kept grinning. “I’ll do it if I want to,” he said almost mulishly.

All I could do is whisper, “Please don’t teach that phrase to Benny. If I catch him saying it, your life might be forfeit.”

“Er … sure thing Gus. We’ll use our indoor manners won’t we Benny?”

Benny snickered and said, “That’s indoor voice. Aunt Gus wants us to use church manners.”

“Ooops.”

They both snickered and all I could do was roll my eyes and say, “Guys, not completely seeing the humor here.”

They tried. I’ll give them that. They were both just too pumped up with fun. Under my breath I muttered, “See if you two get any more sweets for the next few weeks. I swear you are so wound up.”

An older lady in there beside me chuckled and said, “Hate to break it to you, but they never grow up.”

Grateful that someone understood I sighed and said, “Now you tell me.”

She and a couple of other women standing there all laughed. It gave me a funny feeling for other people to look at Lev, Benny, and I and see a family group. For some stupid reason my heart started racing and I felt like I was close to having an anxiety attack. I wonder what in the heck that means.

Lev wasn’t finished with his shopping. Socks. More of the craziest, garish socks you can imagine. Apparently themed socks are sexy. I mean, okay the socks with the northern lights design were kinda nice. The fireweed pattern socks were even nice in a girly kinda way. Wolves and grizzlies might even be considered manly. But will someone please explain to me how wearing salmon on your feet is “sexy”? I mean seriously. And all I could do was laugh. Lev can be such a nut case. He has the most bizarre taste in socks and T’s. The first ones he wore when we met in Florida were just ridiculous. But Benny loved it and was always trying to figure out what the joke was. When he did, it made his day. And Lev’s as well, which may be why he was doing it.

He insisted on getting me a long-sleeved sleep shirt that said, “Otterly Exhausted.” Benny thought it was hysterical. I think this was Lev’s way of telling me he realized too late that me sleeping in a spaghetti-strap T maybe wasn’t the wisest thing and that he should have warned me. But knowing how “cheap” I could be I “fixed” it by wearing a hoodie to bed.

I figured if he could do it then I could do it and I replaced the thermal cup that someone in the Team had “borrowed” and then “lost.” I made sure that this one would fit in the cupholders in the van because the other one hadn’t.

“You don’t have to …”

“Don’t even start Lev. Benny and I haven’t even had to touch any of the per diem because you’ve been picking up the tab for groceries and everything else.”

“Er …”

“I’m not cheap … I’m thrifty. And you need this. And if you can buy me a sleep shirt, unless you want me to pick up a pair of shorts for you with chili peppers on them, I suggest you simply accept the cup gracefully.”

Big Ear Benny of course wanted to know why Lev would wear underwear with chili peppers on them and asked the question a notch above indoor voice. Lev had to walk away. I thought he was horribly embarrassed at first, but he was laughing and didn’t want to have to explain why.

I rolled my eyes and told Benny, “Can’t be worse than the socks with pizza slices on them.”

“But those are cool.” He shrugged and gave it up as some type of weird adult thing and started looking at more weird socks.

A heard snickering and a giggled, “Good save.” I glanced over and there was a girl there hanging up t-shirts.

“They always hear what you don’t want them to.”

“My sister says the same thing,” she said still giggling.

I pushed the buggy towards a stack of boxes of drinks. Lev rarely drank, not even beer, but I wondered if he wanted to. The problem is most beers have gluten in them. I know there are some gluten-free beers because Penny of all people found a list of them online. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the list on hand which made me wonder if wine had gluten in it. I know Lev likes the occasional glass, and wine by itself is gluten-free though it can get cross-contaminated during the winemaking process if you aren’t careful. I guess I need to look up what liquors are gluten-free. I’ll ask him if he wants to drink and get him to understand he doesn’t have to abstain just because I do.

Lev came back with a couple of sets of ceramic coasters in his hand. “I usually try and bring back a few easy ‘gifts’ for whomever is at the house when I pass through.”

I shrugged. “I’ll find room for them.”

“Nah. I’ll just need to pack them and ship them to my Drop Spot.”

“You’re what?”

“I travel so much that it is just easier to have everything shipped to one location … mail, boxes, supplies, all the yada yada you accumulate when you travel. I stop there between assignments and go through it and decide what stays, what goes, and where to store it long term.”

“Your uncle doesn’t do it for you?”

“Uh uh. I don’t like people in my business.”

“Oh.”

“Er … that didn’t come out exactly how I meant it. I mean I don’t …” He stopped and sighed. “I just … I mean I know how this sounds. I just don’t like involving my family in parts of my life.”

I blinked. I hadn’t considered that.

“Let me explain it another way. Your brother, Benny’s dad, could trust you to take care of his business while he was away. And some of it was pretty … personal … because his wife just wasn’t able to do that stuff.”

“Yeah. Pretty much. He taught me.”

“Well, I don’t have anyone like that. My sister and I … like I said we get along better from a distance. My sorta cousin … you met him … Kenny who is James Lee’s dad, I’m just not comfortable with him knowing my business. We’ve never been close enough for that.”

“I thought you said next to your Uncle Cyrus that he was your closest family member.”

“He is. But that don’t necessarily mean I want him knowing my business.”

“O…kay.”

“And Uncle Cyrus already … look, I just don’t have anyone like your brother had you. I know you say he raised you and trained you to do it … mostly because of Benny and all … but that’s just not something …” He shrugged.

I felt bad that he’d gotten the wrong impression. “Hey, I’m not knocking you for how you feel. I just didn’t know. I thought your uncle or cousin would have stepped up. You let them use that land and everything.”

“It isn’t necessarily that I let them, it is the way my grandfather’s will was written. Uncle Cyrus and his sister have life estates on the property. Even if I wanted to sell the property I couldn’t until they are both gone. I’d also have to buy out my sister though she only has a one percent interest and she’d have to give approval of the sale and frankly I don’t know if she would. She can be weird about our mutual family stuff. I was still pretty young when my father …” He stopped and looked over to see that Benny was looking at the snacks and trying to see if any were gluten-free. “… died. My sister was a pre-teen and it messed her up. The part of his estate that went to her was used so she could go away to some private school out near my mother’s people where she lived until she got out of college. She pretty much spent it all on education and the rest on her wedding which was a pretty big deal because of who her husband’s people are. Mine – because Mom wasn’t allowed to touch it – sat accruing interest. I didn’t know it growing up, but my grandfather would put money in the account for me every summer that I came and helped him out. I never knew any of that until he passed away. My sister got real … look, she just wasn’t happy and Mom was bent the guardian ad litem had kept that from her as well.”

“You had a guardian ad litem? But what about your grandfather … and uncle?”

“It is how my dad’s brother set it up so Mom wouldn’t get any of his estate during probate.”

“Wait … uh …”

“I told you my family tree was weird. My dad’s brother was named Denson … I called him Uncle Denz … and was way older than my father had been. From my grandfather’s short-lived, underaged first marriage.”

“Er …”

“He died when I was nine. He was okay but he never married and …” Lev shrugged. “Family. It is what it is for some of us.”

“Okay. Sorry if I brought up bad memories.”

“Naw. Not bad just … in the past. This is the present. So, just to let you know if you want to send anything back to the States for storage you can send it to the Drop Point.”

“Good to know and thanks. But … since Benny and I already have a bunch of junk I will have to eventually go through and since we don’t have a place to go after all of this is done, and since all good things must come to an end at some point …”

“Why?”

“Why what?

“Why do good things have to end?”

I shrugged, “Because in my experience they always do.”

Benny walked up with a sour look on his face, giving me an out from a conversation that had turned uncomfortable.

“What’s up?” I asked.

“All the snacks have gluten in them.”

“I take it you assumed I was going to buy some junk just ‘cause it was gluten free.”

He knew he’d been caught but was smart enough to say, “Wellll, mostly I thought Lev might want something. He was looking for chips yesterday.”

“Uh huh,” I said just looking at him.

He wrinkled his nose and said, “Anyway, all of it has gluten stuff. I read the ingredients and some of it I don’t know what it is, but I can tell when it says wheat and the other stuff we aren’t supposed to have. Even the gummy worms.”

“That’s some tragedy right there. How about you help me to keep Lev on the straight and narrow and not spoil us. I mean will you look at this basket?!”

Benny was easily distracted, and he did indeed help me to keep Lev from buying too much junk. Until it came to some mini-block building sets.

“Aunt Gus has a bunch of those.”

“She has a bunch of what?” Lev asked.

“The mini-Lego stuff. The Umpire State Building was the last one she worked on in Key West.”

“Empire, not umpire,” I told him. “And don’t …” From the corner of my eye I saw Lev make a move. “Lev!”

“Why didn’t I know you liked Legos?”

“Put those back.”

“No,” he said sounding like an obstinate two-year old. “They’re small and won’t take up much room. Or we can ship them back in my box and you’ll have something to look forward to.”

“Lev … I try not and give into that too much. When I was younger …”

Benny told Lev, “We had to put all her blocks in storage except for a box of little ones and the Umpire Building when we moved to Key West.”

“Empire, not umpire I told you. And adults don’t play with legos.”

Lev was not helping. “Sure they do. I have a cousin that has a house full of big ones, mostly Star Wars, Star Trek, and the robot ones.”

I have no idea how long the “discussion” would have continued except that Lev wouldn’t listen or participate. Every time I tried to bring it up he would just go la-la-la. Seriously he would stick his fingers and his ears and go, “La-la-la.” Benny thought it was funny. Me? Not so much. I now have a box of humpback whale pieces in the van and in a box on its way to Las Vegas … which is where the drop point is … is a grizzly, an eagle, and a moose. Now if I can just keep the hamster from going all OCD. The whale has 471 pieces which isn’t a gazillion but will keep my hands and brain busy for a bit. Argh. This has got to stop. Lev keeps telling me he is “flush” and not to make a big deal out of it, but I am and will. He won’t stay “flush” if he keeps this up.

Back at his friend’s aunt’s place I went over the van stem to stern … changed the oil, checked the brakes, checked all the rest of the fluids and filters and topped off and changed as necessary from the inventory of spares I had on hand. To say thank you I did the same to the aunt’s ancient Ford Bronco made back before all the stupid computers and regulating chips. It was a rolling (and well-used) museum piece. With the sun staying up as long as it does, I didn’t realize how late it was getting until Lev stuck a bowl of venison stew in my grease covered hands.

“What time is it?!” I asked as my stomach surprised me with a growl.

“Ha! I knew it. It’s almost 9 o’clock.”

“Crap! I didn’t mean for you to have to cook.”

“I didn’t. Bishop doubles as a short order cook when he isn’t helping his aunt or working on a fishing boat, and he wanted to try a new recipe out. And don’t make with the face. I donated some ingredients to the cause, bought a case of beer from the Anchorage Brewing Company, and helped cook and clean up. Now your turn. Eat. How close are you to finishing?”

After getting over the fact that someone was looking after me instead of the other way around, I asked, “Where’s Benny?”

“Winding down after taking a shower. Boy is that kid proud of all that Junior Ranger stuff he has.”

“Yes, he is. Thank you. And I just need to check the oil one more time to make sure that I found the gasket that was leaking and got it sealed. She had all the parts, just no one to put the puzzle together.”

“Bishop is good at a lot of stuff but cars isn’t one of them. His brother – who is good at that stuff – is working the oil fields right now. You did a good turn helping her out like this. The Bronco is the only vehicle she has and as you can see there isn’t exactly a lot of car lots around here.”

I shrugged. “She’s nice. And she even dried the tarp and tent which I forgot to do.”

“Yes she is and yes she did. Now eat before it gets cold. I’m going to help auntie pour Bishop into bed and then that’s where we need to be going.”

“Aye aye, Admiral.”

He grinned because he knew I was playing but in a sense, maybe not. Very weird feeling to be so comfortable with someone that I knew I didn’t have to be completely “on” and the only one thinking 24/7/365.


[1]
View: https://youtu.be/5Z5-5xLGsk0
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________
July 31st

Sunrise/Sunset: (twilight 3:48 am) 4:46 am (Skagway)
Weather: 79F/54F (Skagway)

Exhausted. All I want to do is crawl under these covers and catch some zzzzz’s but I’m still wound up. We all went to sleep and I’m grateful for the blackout shades otherwise I’m not sure I could have pulled that off. We’ve got it down to a science I think. Wake Benny up enough to get his bed put away and his booster seat secured. Offer him breakfast. If he is hungry he eats then will go back to sleep for a while. If he isn’t hungry, he goes back to sleep for a few hours.

We were pulling out at 4:14 am. It was twilight but not true daylight yet. Lev had all the paperwork, including our passports, ready for crossing into Canada. I started in the driver’s seat to give Lev time to take care of any business; business I realized he has been postponing to give us his full attention. It nearly caused an argument last night. I was still feeling funny about how he had taken care of me while I was taking care of the vehicles. Feeling funny because I realized I liked it. A lot. Then the blasted phone call where I accidentally … or maybe accidentally on purpose … found out a few things.

“You’ve got job offers and you aren’t responding?!”

“Trying to get rid of me?!” Lev said, obviously not joking.

“What?! Of course not. But Benny and I aren’t an anchor around your neck either.”

“No! To my heart and I like it that way just fine!”

I must have sat there across from him with my mouth hanging open for a bit because it wasn’t until Benny asked, “Can we keep him Aunt Gus? I like him.”

“No Benjamin, stop asking about the kitten. I told you he needs to stay with his mother.”

“Not the cat. Can we keep Lev?”

That left me with my mouth hanging open even more than what Lev said. Then Benny the Stinker giggled, “You look the same way as when that whale blew snot on you.” And he giggled some more when he said, “Lev helped you get the whale snot off, but now he looks like he got hit in the face with a frozen fish.” Then he really giggled. “Y’all are funny looking.”

Lev did indeed look like he’d been hit in the face with a frozen fish but then said, “If I catch him and hold him, can you do the tickling? You know all the best spots.”

All I could say was, “Uh huh.”

Later Lev and I talked. I’m not going to record everything; it would take forever and a day for me to get it right and I probably still wouldn’t be able to get the nuances across. Basically Lev prefers the life he is living now much more than he did his previous one, what his Uncle Cyrus calls “foot loose and fancy free” life. He’s trying to get me to understand what is possible without pushing me too much. I’m pretty sure I already know what is possible, just not sure that what is possible is what is permanent. I don’t know. And then there is Benny. It is a lot for me to think through.

Lev seemed pretty satisfied this morning, but he finally admitted that there were things he needed to do. Lev and I split the driving though I did most of it because at one of our stops the Director needed him to see if he had some “cuts” or something or other along those lines.

I pulled out and following the GPS and Lev’s friend’s directions since the GPS had a tendency to cut out in the middle of nowhere, I headed to Slana, Alaska but that was roughly 600 miles on the Klondike Highway, and eleven hours in front of us.

One of the stranger pitstops we made was at the Yukon Suspension Bridge to take some pictures, grab a bowl of bison chili, and pick up a couple of packs of Wunderbar candy bars. The suspension bridge was cool. It swings 65 feet above rapids on the Tutshi River and there was a trail with exhibits to and from it on both sides of the gorge. The outdoor museum was also very neat. However, I think it was the candy bars that Lev really stopped for. Apparently he has a weakness for the things. I’ll have to remember that. The problem is they are only available in Canada. Well, technically. I found them on sale on Amazon. Not cheap but a bulk purchase that has a smaller per bar charge than buying them one at a time. And free shipping. And speaking of shipping, I bought a case of them before Lev could say anything and had them shipped to his drop point.

At first I thought he was going to get mad. Then I realized he was having a problem computing what I did. I flapped him in the head with my hat and said, “They’re for you. I figure if you can spoil us then I can do it in return. Just don’t eat them all at once or you’ll get a stomachache. They aren’t gluten free, but I guess since you eat them now, they won’t kill you.”

The look on his face was a little strange and he said, “I’ll savor them, each and every one.”

Uh hm. That was a bit much for me and I had to turn away.

We passed Carcross Railway Station and Spirit Lake and then made another pit stop at the Carcross Desert, or what they called a desert. It is actually an example of northern sand dunes, it is too humid to be considered a true desert. How it was created was when large glacial lakes formed during the last ice age and deposited silt. When the lakes dried, the silt, now dunes, were left behind. New sand is carried in by the wind from nearby Bennett Lake. If the dunes could remain undisturbed, they would eventually disappear by being covered by the wide variety of plants, including unusual varieties such as Baikal sedge and Yukon lupine, among others that are now growing on them. Problem is that, while the Yukon Territorial government has made efforts to protect Carcross Desert, it has mostly failed because of opposition from locals who use the dunes for recreational purposes. And yes, I read all of that in a local newspaper I dug out of a recycling bin.

Finally reached the end of the Klondike Hwy and turned left onto the Alaska Hwy heading through Whitehouse, Yukon Territory. The Takhini Hot Pools is one of the most visited locations in the Yukon according to the tourism documentaries that I watched during down times last week. The hot springs have been in operation for over 100 years. The hot springs pools are a relaxing 36°C and 42° Celsius, with water entering the pool at 47C degrees which is a doggone hot 116F. The water is rich in minerals and is purported to be very healthy. Uh huh. Wonder if that is anything like the sulfur springs they have in Florida or any of the other springs that Benny and I visited. The park is open year ‘round and I would have loved to stop but no could do. We needed to reach Tok, Alaska and the RV Village that was there.

Lev decided to revisit some of his “misspent youth” and wanted to eat at Fast Freddy’s Restaurant which is at the RV Village. The RV spot we got wasn’t cheap, but it wasn’t the most expensive location I’ve stayed at either. Fifty-five dollars covered all three of us and a full hook up in a very beautiful setting.

We parked the van, and it was obvious that both Benny and Lev needed to work some of the wiggles out so we placed an order at the restaurant and then took a turn in the town. The biggest stand out was the Tok Main Street Visitor’s Center. It is located in the middle of Tok at the main intersection. Duh, as if the name didn’t give that away. At 7,000 square feet it is said to be Alaska’s largest log structure. We looked through the window (they were already closed for the day) and it seemed to be full of helpful information.

The other way we dealt with the wiggles is that Tok has a really nice, paved walking or biking path running through it. In one direction it goes 10 miles out of town towards Fairbanks. In the other direction it goes seven miles down the Tok cut-off towards Glenallen. It is also pet-friendly and lots of people (relatively speaking) were using the path since nighttime came late and if you weren’t into the bar scene it was about the only “nighttime” activity that was available.

We only walked a mile out and back in either direction. The trail was very flat, so it didn’t take much time. Lev and I did have to make some allowances for Benny since he isn’t as tall as we are and if I had it to do all over again, I would have put him on his bike and Lev and I could have used our full stride. That is one thing that I miss being able to do. Benny is getting too big and too old to carry. Use to be if I wanted to get someplace fast, I would just toss him up on my shoulders and away we would go. Not these days. I’m amazed how much he has grown since we started our adventures.

The restaurant was busy and they were just putting our food in containers when we came back for pick up. We took it back to the van, ate, the guys grabbed a shower in the guy’s baths (that’s another thing that Benny is getting too old for … taking a shower in the women’s bathroom). While they were showering, I tossed in the worst of our dirty laundry into the laundromat. They spelled me when they came out and by the time I was finished – it took a while to get the grime and knots out of my hair – everything was getting tossed into the dryer. I sent the guys out to the van and then followed when the laundry was finished and found both of them nodding off watching a really old Disney cartoon where Donald visits Lake Titicaca.

I convinced Lev that neither he nor I would melt and go to hell if he slept on one half of the platform bed and me the other. The floor of the van is grimy and the idea of him sleeping on it was disgusting. The van is due another serious cleaning. I did all the scheduled maintenance in Skagway, I just didn’t get around to the heavy cleaning like I had meant to.

Resources:
Fast Eddy's Restaurant - Tok, Alaska - Praised Throughout the Northland (fasteddysrestaurant.com)
TOK AK RV VILLAGE CAMPGROUND & CABINS, – ALASKA’S FINEST! (tokrv.net)
Wrangell Map: WRST Unigrid 508 compliant (nps.gov)
Klondike Junior Ranger Program: https://www.nps.gov/klgo/learn/kidsyouth/upload/080717_KLGO_JUNIORRANGERBOOKLET_508-REV.pdf
Gluten Free Beer Brands List 2021 - The Ultimate Guide (urbantastebud.com)
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________

Aug 1: Wrangell-St. Elias – America’s Largest National Park


Temperature: 70F/55F

Our day can be summed up as Wake up from Tok, drive to Slana, and then onto the Nabaesna Road. Obviously there is more to it than that but that is the short and sweet version.

The parks here in Alaska are different. I’ve said that before, but I don’t know if I’ve been able to convey just how big the parks in Alaska are. Wrangell-St. Elias spans an area bigger than the states of Vermont and New Hampshire combined. In addition, the park is divided up into several sections, not all of them accessible from the interior of the park. Heck, most of the interior isn’t really accessible to your average visitor except from the air.

We started out in the Copper River area and the very first part of the Copper River area is the Copper River Visitor Center Complex. It helped to put things into perspective for me and we got Benny going with the Junior Ranger program. And someone had passed around to be on the lookout for “Aunt Gus and Little Bear” as we were recognized almost immediately. Discovered that someone was Rick. Was not feeling the happy but I decided to give him the benefit of the doubt. And a good thing I did.

It appears that the national park staff in Alaska do not have a very good impression of film crews in general and one in particular that went through the area last year. Some of our film crew were acting a little full of themselves as well. Breaking away from the main body and then Rick sending out the message of who I was and how understanding and “willing to be impressed” by park staff paved the way for Lev and us to have a much easier time of it. And even Benny has learned you catch more flies with honey than you do with vinegar. I’ve sent him a thank you email but I made it from all three of us, not just me.

As for the TMI, it appears that Rick has put the brakes on with Rosa. Reading between the lines he is feeling a bit used by her to come to the States and a few other things that he was worried about early on that he talked to me about including an old boyfriend. I didn’t want to get into it. I know Rick cares for Rosa, I don’t know if Rosa cares for Rick. Some of it may be cultural differences. For now, Rosa and her mother will be staying in Costa Rica and her aunt is coming to the States with Rick’s uncle. So be it, but I’m done with it being my business and just made sure to wish him luck. He accepted the position he’d been offered in Tallahassee with the State Park system. The End. I gave the email to Lev to read and told him when he was finished, unless he wanted to add something, to hit send.

“Uh … you mad at the guy?”

“You asked me that already.”

“Well, to be honest, I’d like to know.”

“Why?”

“‘Cause I don’t want to do whatever he did to make you feel this way.”

When I realized he was serious and not just schmoozing me I told him, “I’m not angry at him. More I’m angry at myself for not seeing how things really stood. I wasted time on it that would have been better spent … on other things.”

He looked thoughtful for a moment then said, “Sometimes things have to happen the way they do.”

“What?”

“It is about the only thing I really remember my father saying to me. It’s … it’s just the way things were. He didn’t believe I was his son for a few years until my uncle noticed a birthmark I have that is like my father’s. By then … I guess none of us really knew how to make it work.”

“You were Benny’s age. How the heck were you supposed to make it work? They were the adults.”

He shrugged. “It was just my life. He died in a farming accident.”

“You never said that.”

“Yeah. I … I don’t talk about it. I’m the one that found him. The tractor tipped. Uh … can … can we talk about something else?”

“Of course,” I told him, and we switched to the Assignment particulars for Wrangell-St. Elias.

At the visitor center Benny and I learned that Wrangell-St Elias is the largest national park in the US. It also includes 9 of the 16 highest peaks in the United States. Its geography stretches from “glacier kissed ocean” to the peak of Mt. St. Elias at 18,000 feet to relatively flat river deltas, to mines, volcanic fields, and lakes. To explain how big the park is, imagine yourself flying from Seattle to Anchorage. Before you get to Anchorage you will have to fly over the park for about a half hour. Now that’s big.

This park is not just a nationally protected area, but an internationally protected one as well because it borders on Canada’s Kluane National Park. Between the two parks is the largest collection of glaciers and the greatest cluster of peaks over 16,000 feet high in the continent of North America.

Not only is Wrangell-St. Elias unique geographically, but it is also unique culturally. It is the homeland of the Ahtna Athabaskan. The Ahtna people only have about 1,400 left and most of them live in the Copper River area. When “whites” first arrived in the Copper River Valley (Russians exploring the land well before Europeans) in the 1700s they were met with strong resistance from the Ahtna people. It wasn’t until the US bought the land from Russia that peaceful interactions between the Ahtna and “whites” became normalized. The Ahtna people are now represented by Ahtna, Inc, a Native Alaska Corporation which was created in the 1970s. Ahtna, Inc has a big contract with the US government for aiding immigration and customs enforcement, something the entire tribe seems to feel very strongly about if I understand all the documentation correctly. Visitors are warned in very strong terms to respect the private land rights in the area and pay attention to signs. Politics, policy, and private land rights are big business in the area.

Wrangell-St Elias National Park is one of the three Alaska national parks you can drive to. We did so many turn outs that I lost count but the three trails we did I’ll always remember.

Caribou Creek Trail (6 miles, 3 hours) – moderate – The trail was spectacular and easier than I expected given some of the surrounding terrain. There were a variety of wildflowers along the trail including blue bells, prickly rose, monkshood and Alaska cottongrass. No, I don’t know those things off the top of my head, Benny found them in his Junior Ranger booklet. There were also wolf, bear, moose and some other animal tracks we identified the same way. You have to cross the creek a few times throughout the route up to a cabin that is marked as public use. The crossings were easy enough, though a little muddy in places. Once you get to the cabin you can hike up and around the ridgeline of the surrounding peaks for some spectacular views if you are so inclined.

Skookum Volcano Trail (5 miles, 3 hours) – moderate – Talk about some wow. The trail led us through an extinct and eroded volcanic system with some very cool geology. Once again using some of the materials that Benny collected for his Junior Ranger activities, we could see that the erosion had exposed examples of rhyolite and dacite domes, andesite lava flows, vents, and dikes. There were three distinct environments on the trail: forest, rocky creek with a lot of crossings, and an alpine tundra area at the highest elevations along the trail. We also got to see Dall Sheep which was very cool. And frankly a little unnerving. I am absolutely positive sheep are the raw vegans of the animal kingdom but the looks in these sheep’s eyes made me wonder if there wasn’t a sheep subculture. They looked at us like they we were potential dinner.

Rambler Mine Trail (1.5 miles, approx. 2 hours) – steep and strenuous. This trail was the shortest, least traveled trail for the day. You also had to park down the road and walk to the trailhead. Worst part was the trail was also very muddy in places. Lev was taking pictures of Benny and I hiking on ahead and backed up into one particularly muddy place and one boot when down to his ankle. I’ve done my best to clean it but he is going to switch out to his other hikers until these are completely dry and can be brushed outside and in. There are actually two mines on this trail. Rambler Mine is the one you hike out to but there is also Nabesna Mine, an even bigger site with a ghost town on the side.

We overnighted at the Kendesnii Campground which I have to say seems like a lucky break. The Campground only has ten sites. Count ‘em. One, two, three … Seriously, a very beautiful place but I’ve never seen an organized campground so small. And to add to the mystery, it is a free site. No, I’m not kidding. It is first come first serve but only half the sites were taken when we pulled in. Before dark they were all taken but not when we got there.

Fairly rustic. No hookups. No dump station. Vault toilets only. But the sites are level, and the gravel was new and graded. People told us there were some walk-in type campsites right on the lake but … uh, nope. Lev said unless we must, we are staying in the van. Don’t want to run into any of the local wildlife with Benny along.

“Or without Benny along. Gators I can handle. I’ll even deal with bison walking through camp or inquisitive elk or moose. The kinda bears I’ve seen up here? Not so much. And I don’t care, those Dall Sheep did not look vegan at freaking all.”

Lev, recovered from the extra-special-personal details of his childhood coming out, chuckled like he thought I was kidding. Er … nope. The tracks we saw today, the size of them, have convinced me that I like it in the van just fine thank you very much. I am not a coward, but I do have a wide streak of self-preservation and better-safe-than-sorry.

Resources:
Wrangell-St. Elias Junior Ranger Booklet: https://www.nps.gov/wrst/learn/kidsyouth/upload/Jr-Ranger-Web.pdf
Alaska Campgrounds - Kendesnii Campground - Nabesna Road (campgroundsalaska.com)
Virtual Wildlife Viewing - Tracking Maps, Alaska Department of Fish and Game
 

Lake Lili

Veteran Member
Thanks Kathy! Haines is one of my most favourite Alaskan towns and visiting it during Eagle migration in November is fantastic... and The Haines Stampede and Rodeo over the Canada -4th of July weekend is a blast. Highly recommend that Benny try mutton busting. If you head down HWY 1 past Salana to Glenallen, there is a bakery that makes the most awesome butter tarts...
Lili
 
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Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________

Aug 2: Wrangell-St. Elias – Copper Center area​


Early in the morning we headed back to the Glenn Hwy and drove along the Copper River toward Chistochina and the Copper River Visitor Center. That’s also where the Ahtna Cultural Center was and we stopped there as well.

Part of the day we spent hiking trails located on site at the Wrangell-St. Elias Visitor Center. First trail was about a half-mile in length and called the Boreal Forest Trail. It was a loop that overlooked the Wrangell Mountains. The other trail was the Copper River Bluff Trail, a moderately strenuous, 1/2 mile loop that took us to an overlook of the Copper River. Other trails that we stopped at to at least get pictures of the trailheads included the Tolsona Mud Volcanoes, Aspen Interpretive Trail, Kenny Lake Trail, Tonsina River Trail, & Liberty Falls Trail. These were short, nearby day hikes that are not located inside the park. These trails are not maintained by or affiliated with the National Park Service. These hikes are located near the park on the Glenn Highway (Hwy 1) and the Edgerton Highway (Hwy 10).

I could have hiked for a lot more hours than we did but we needed to keep moving. We finally reached our overnight location at
Kenny Lake Mercantile & RV Park. It had electric, water, partial hook ups, wifi, a dump station, laundry, showers, general store (large selection of groceries, dairy, and produce as well as hardware, fishing gear, and clothing and souvenirs), bathrooms, potable water available, a restaurant (offers breakfast and lunch from local ingredients) famous for their homemade pies, and a gas station with gas, diesel, and propane.

I had to pull over and just stare when we got to town. It might not be uncommon for a moose to be strolling down a residential street looking for a tree to prune at Kenny Lake, but for this Florida girl it was a really unreal sight.

One of the camp’s best features is that it is only 25 miles from the entrance to Wrangell-St. Elias national park. But the entrance will only be the beginning. The 60-mile drive into the park is gravel, speed limit 35 mph. I was wondering a few things and decided to simply ask Lev rather than guess.

“Lev? When are the others supposed to catch up? I thought you said they were only about 24 hours behind us?”

“Getting tired of my company already?”

I gave Benny the thumb to hop in the van and I sat at the picnic table and waited for Lev to do so as well. We needed to hash things out, or maybe I just needed to be a little plainer.

“Lev,” I said carefully trying to watch my tone. Everyone was always on me about my tone when I was growing up and now maybe I’m a little sensitive about it, but social cues blindness or not, even I could see I needed to be careful here. “If I didn’t want to be here, I wouldn’t be. I certainly wouldn’t be doing this with Benny in tow. And, I guess I’m not very good at this but that includes being here with you. I’ve followed you all the way across the contiguous US, on ferries, into Alaska, on a windy as hell mountain highway into Canada, and now here to nature’s buttcrack. And for your information I’ve never followed anyone since Lawrence died. Not even my one and only foray into the birds and the bees which honestly wasn’t much of a foray. I was the captain of the ship. You saw how I was, even in Florida with you and Rick … I still needed to control things. I’m trying to do better but trying is the word. I know I …”

“Don’t. You make me feel like an idiot.”

I sighed. “I’m obviously worse at this than I thought.”

“Yeah, well join the club because what I said didn’t exactly come out right just now.” He scratched his head in agitation. “I don’t mean to let my issues take front and center. And don’t try and look like you don’t know what I mean just to save my pride. I thought I’d gotten over being needy. One of the reasons that I like you Gus is because you give me room to breathe, and you can look after yourself. But then crazy things get in my head, and I want to do the taking care of. I don’t want to take away your independence but damn it is hard to share you with other people. I keep expecting them to show you what a real loser I used to be and then you think that is the way I still am. I was coming off a bad relationship when we were in Florida. I wasn’t feeling real good about myself. You gave me room to breathe, not asking anything of me, not being needy, just … look, I just don’t want you to think that is who I am anymore, and this damn assignment is …”

I reached over and took his hand and he jumped. He does that a lot when touched when he isn’t expecting it. It makes me wonder about his childhood some, but we weren’t where I could ask him about it, or if it was even any of my business. “Maybe … maybe you are …”

“Outgrowing them?”

“No. I haven’t ‘outgrown’ my friends from high school, at least not the ones that I keep in touch with. But my life experiences sure have put some space there. It is great to keep up with them online but the ones I’ve seen since I started this journey with Benny, there’s definitely a difference. One or two get it but they’ve got their own journey they are on, so it isn’t like we are traveling the same roads. Maybe it is the same way with you and your friends. It is easier to be friends when there is some time and space there.”

He snorted. “And maybe some of them are letting their damn issues take over. Look, I didn’t mean to snap either, but I like working alone.” I tried to back out of his space but he grabbed my hand. “I don’t mean alone, alone … you and Benny make things easier for me, not harder … I mean I may not be a team player like when I started in this business. All the noise the others were making made the job harder than it had to be. Damn bunch of prima donnas.”

“Er …”

“Yeah, Chan and Diego aren’t like that but that’s because they are like me … leave ‘em alone and they do better work. Bob gets it. As the assistant director he better get it. He said it is actually making it easier on him and the Director and Producer for us to peel off and get things done on our own because while I put my own spin on things, it still falls within the parameters of what they need.”

“Okay, then what’s the problem? You are stressing about something. Is it you are trying not to tell me that you need something in particular after me running my mouth about not wanting to be treated like an actor?”

“Uh uh. That’s not even an issue. Bob and the Director have really liked the cuts I’ve sent them. There are a few things in particular they want but even that is more something to choose from than a guarantee it won’t wind up on the cutting room floor.”

“Okay then count me clueless. Is it me getting a little bonkers because I can’t pick up a radio station to hear the news?”

“No. I miss listening to it and discussing what is going on back in the real world too. I’d actually like to bump that up a notch and make sure we have some plans for … er … just in case and am I pushing, ‘cause you look … funny.”

I shook my head in the negative. “You’d do that. Help me make plans? Because most people consider me a little … zealous in that area.”

“Yeah, I wanted to clock Rick. I mean, you got a kid so of course people with commonsense have to stay on top of the crap going on in the world. Yeah, it’s stressful. It’s gonna be more stressful if you need a plan and don’t have one.”

“I’m used to people thinking I wear tight tinfoil under my clothes.”

“Ha! And I’m used to people thinking I’m a loose screw that doesn’t even want a hole.” He stopped and shook his head. “I like what I do. What I do requires traveling. But given some of the places that I’ve traveled having a way to get out is something you must do. Gus I’ve been to the Middle East, the Outback in Australia during fire and dust storms, in a village of former “cannibals” in New Zealand during some kind of tribal feud, tramping across the EU, been to the top of Mt. Etna while it was erupting, lots of places that have risks. When I first started out I even worked with war correspondents. And so far, being paranoid hasn’t hurt me and in fact has kept me out of trouble. But more and more it was simply an issue of being easier to get in, get the job done, and get out if I was traveling alone. That doesn’t mean that I necessarily preferred doing it that way, that’s just how the assignments started to roll. This particular assignment is different. It is a big project that needs a team with cohesion and a single vision so that the end product doesn’t look choppy. There is also big money backing it … government contract size money, Rockefeller and Gates Foundation size money … and if we, as in the team, don’t want to have it turning into an albatross we drag around for the rest of our careers then it needs to be done right. Some of the team members are playing diva. And yeah, Gretchen is one of them. Thanks for avoiding the cat fight she was always trying to start. She doesn’t like sharing the spotlight.”

Trying to satisfy my curiosity while not sounding snarky I asked, “She’s a photographer. When did she become the subject?”

“Ha!” he said again. “That’s the same thing Bob asked her. She has her own blog, and it is damn professional … but she’s the star. However, with money getting tight she needs to work other projects so she can fund her pet personal projects. I overheard that she is being pissy because you are still making bank on your blog.”

“I’m not trying to live off it. And I know it looks amateur in a couple of places. It just keeps some holes from getting deeper, it doesn’t fill them in,” I told him.

“I know. And I heard you explain it to Kent when he asked about it … trying to compare Adventure with Gretchen’s nearly over professional showcase. To be honest she’s forgotten her place in the scheme of things. She keeps acting like she’s the subject of this project, or trying to put herself into the scenes, and the Director and Producer keep telling her to knock it off. It isn’t all her though. Kent has a thing for Gretchen and is putting her in the scenes as well and then since they are senior team members the others all take their direction from them. I have a feeling one or the other of them – possibly both – are going to get cut pretty soon. Bet it is just an issue of figuring out how to get out of their contracts so they don’t get a big pay out for doing nothing. They do have a lot of friends out there and they could bad mouth this project and cause problems.”

“So … you don’t want to work with the team. I mean not directly?”

“Not exactly. Gus, when I say you and Benny make my job easy, I mean exactly that. You’re natural but you don’t mind giving something a try because I want or need particular shots. This isn’t a job to you, but you aren’t treating it like a vacation either; you treat it important because you know it is my job, my career. You bring in the educational element that was missing. And it wasn’t me that brought that up but Chan … he was home schooled up until high school so understands where you are going with Benny. And the Producer thinks that could be a marketing ploy at some point.”

“Oh Lord.”

“Trust me, he isn’t going to screw around. Don’t say anything but the guy is trying to convince his wife to home school their kids and get them out of the expensive private school they are in right now.”

“Fine. So we aren’t rare birds. But …”

“But nothing. You let me be the photographer or videographer without hamming it up or … look, you just make my job easier. You should be doing the same thing for the rest of the team. I know Diego and Chan agree because when they mentioned that Benny’s voice was a little loud all you did was remind the kid to use his indoor voice even if you were outdoors because what you all said was no one else’s business, plus animals don’t speak English no matter how loud you say something, it only annoys them and makes them want to be someplace else. And Benny has remembered that. He got it when you explained it to him the way you did. Kinda serious, kinda funny at the same time. Heck, a couple of the other team members thought that was funny as hell and said they were stealing it to use with clients in the future.”

I hadn’t really been trying to be funny when I said that but whatever works. I asked him, “Am I creating problems for the other team members?”

“No. It isn’t that either. Though I nearly crapped myself when you told Gretch you had some Midol if she needed it. I thought Bob was going to need oxygen there for a few minutes. And it was no biggie, you’d just had enough of her Diving for Diva routine. What I’m trying to say is that some team members are making the job harder than it needs to be and we’re getting more done without them. I might have to make a few corrections here and there on direction. Par for the course and what the job is when you are trying to provide a product that fits someone else’s vision.”

“You make all of that make sense but why do I still have a feeling that there’s more?”

He was more relaxed. I realized he’d been needing to talk.

“I just don’t do large group dynamics these days.”

“Meaning?”

“Having connectivity helps me get the job done better. Bob is my contact, and he filters the Director’s and Producer’s comments – their vision – so that I can see if I need to tweak what I’m doing. I have no problem with that. People hire me for my talent to get their vision on print … meaning … er …”

“I get it. You hear what they’re saying and have no problem providing the product they say they want. You also give them a few other options to play with … like me and Benny. You wanted us here, but you also had a reason for wanting us here because we’ve got some experiences ourselves that are useful. You don’t have to start from scratch each and every time. You build on things.”

“You make me sound a lot smarter than I feel.”

“You are a very smart and talented guy Levinson Hargis. I knew you were better than your average bear after about a week in Florida. I kept expecting to feel like I was being watched and … it wasn’t like that at all. Benny and I could keep right on being ourselves, and you made it work. But it doesn’t sound like that same method is working here.”

“Actually it is … for me. And what I’m providing to the others has gotten a lot of approval by the director and producer … and a lot more approval than that on up the line according to Bob. For other reasons too, like not needing top billing, understanding a budget where money and stuff is concerned, but that’s a different issue.” He sighed. “I’m getting blowback from some other team members. Emails and texts and crap that I’m on the point of blocking because that shit isn’t something I would put up with to my face and I don’t want to put up with it in any other form of communication. I swear some of them seem like they are losing their minds. I don’t remember them being like this on other projects, or not to this extent. On the other hand, I’m trying not to be a diva either. There’s enough of that going around. We’ve all worked together before … maybe not all together at the same time … but enough to know that we can work together without these issues.”

“Maybe Benny and I are causing tension that …”

“No. And I’m not letting you go there no matter what you think of it. The problem is not you and Benny. And it’s not me either.” He shook his head. “Think of it like this. Everyone on this team except for you and Benny have at least ten years in the industry, some going on 25. We are long haulers that have earned our street creds. I’m fairly certain that a couple of them got the wrong idea about what the people who are paying the bills want. I knew from the outset that they did not want some artsy-fartsy production with big elevator music backgrounds. They want something that gets people to feel like they can do the grand tour of the Alaska national parks themselves and the state of Alaska wants a piece of that so is looking for other locations to be showcased, and not just Anchorage and Fairbanks, not just the cruise ports. This is going to be a series, not just a single documentary. However, there needs to be a single vision to keep it from being choppy and the subject needs to remain Alaska, not the characters being used. From what I overheard, some of them thought they would get at least an episode where it was a documentary on making the documentary and they all wanted to make sure their own work made it in.”

Understanding a little better I said, “Oh well. You get what you get and you don’t throw a fit as my grandmother used to say. That’s their ego talking. If they are as good at what they do as you and they think, then the whole point is to be invisible, so it doesn’t look like you are making a film but that the audience is participating, right there in the pictures and vids. At least that’s what yours do for me. I swear I could read the emotion in that orphan baby elephant’s eyes. Even Benny got it. He said, ‘Look! He’s excited his aunties are home from work!’ when the elephants came in from helping to clear a road.”

“Yeah?”

“Yeah. And you didn’t put yourself into any of it. The subject wasn’t you taking pictures in exotic locations. The subject was that orphan baby elephant.”

He relaxed even more. “Well now that I have an inflated head that my hat won’t fit on …” We both chuckled. “That is what the problem is, in my opinion. They are inserting too much of themselves into the shoot. They aren’t using their talents, they think the show is about their talents. Wrong project for that. Their talents need to reveal the subject, not be the subject. So back to the beginning … We are being told to work at our own pace and the team will either catch up or they won’t. I’ll need to stop in connected locations to access the drop box to upload sequences … vids and stills … but I’ve handled things on projects like that before. The Florida Assignment is just the most recent example. The rest of the team is still on shake down but if I … we … provide some substance then the people that the Producer answers to won’t cause him grief that he will be obligated to have roll downhill creating problems with the team divas that will then roll back uphill. Catch-22. And thanks.”

“For?”

“Asking. Giving me a chance to answer. I could have just said something. You wouldn’t have bit my head off. Or you could have thought …” He shook his head. “Just … thanks.”

In a deadpan voice I said, “It is what us perfect people do.” Only I couldn’t keep a straight face because the idea of me being perfect is perfectly hilarious.

Resources:
HOME | kennylakemerc (wixsite.com)
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________

Aug 3: Wrangell St. Elias – The McCarthy Road Area (Part 1)​


Weather: 62F/55F
Cell/Wifi coverage: limited at best

First thing this morning we headed towards the Chitina Ranger Station with a stop at Liberty Falls, a 2.3-mile lightly trafficked out and back trail located near Chitina, Alaska. It featured a lake and is rated as moderate. Moderate or not, it was a great start to the day; really got the blood pumping. The first part of this trail is a bit steep, but once you're out of the spruce forest, the rest of the hike is pleasant and takes you along the ridge. Once on the ridge, there are places where the trees open up and there are great views of the surrounding mountains. The official trail ends at mile 1.7, but you can continue another 0.25 miles to the lake and even further on unbroken trails. We went to the lake for a couple of shots but didn’t linger. The falls themselves were really beautiful and we had it to ourselves though we did meet a few people on the way back to the van.

We arrived at the ranger station before they were open but luckily there was a “booth” of sorts – and a human being type ranger manning it. The reason why I said “human being type” is that the guy had already inhaled more than his fair share of caffeine and was jittering away and happy to have someone to jitter at … us. Oh my Lord. I had a Commander that lived on energy drinks and could be just like this guy; tongue hinged in the middle and running at both ends and clueless other people were running in a completely different gear.

Lev said that Chitina Ranger Station is a must-stop for anyone visiting Chitina or venturing down the McCarthy Road to Kennecott. There are interpretive exhibits, trip planning, road updates, park & area information, and subsistence permits for eligible local rural residents. The subsistence permits basically just mean that locals can harvest from the national park for personal use.

Of course our primary reason for stopping was to check road conditions but the ranger also told us about the weather and without us asking let us know various trail conditions. He also just about bounced out of his boots over Benny who was carrying around his Junior Ranger booklet. I guess they don’t really get many non-local kids to the park simply because of its remoteness.

When we got back into the van Benny said, “Wow. I think he must have had something red.”

I laughed because I had been thinking the same thing. Lev on the other hand was a little distracted as he’d gotten a couple of updates from Bob and a few other “love notes” from the team. As I understood it several of them – not Bob – seem to think that it isn’t “fair” that Lev is allowed to go off on his own.

I rolled my eyes at that and asked, “How old are they? Because gotta say they sound like a bunch of kids. Maybe the reason they can’t be trusted, and need to be kept on a leash, is because they aren’t doing the job they are getting paid to do.”

“You think I am?”

It was an odd question, but I answered it honestly. “Lev I watch you every day put hours into editing shots and what all you call that stuff so that you have something to feed the hungry director and producer with every night. And that doesn’t include the time you are actually taking photos and film. I’m sorry your friends are hassling you; it definitely isn’t deserved.”

In a different tone he said, “Thanks. Diego emailed me and said to ignore as much as I can and don’t let it affect my work.”

“Diego?”

“Yeah. Kinda … uh …”

“Tries to be a father figure?”

“Yeah and no. He and Chan occasionally catch the same flack so know how it feels. Diego is fairly fireproof and mentored me when I first broke into the business so knows that sort of thing bothers me. He’s also not real fond of Gretch or Huntley who seem to be the primary instigators with the discontent in the team. Well Gretchen anyway, Huntley is just her suck up and does whatever she’s told.”

“Er …”

“Yeah it is, so let’s try and ignore it. Today is going to be full.”

I thought hopefully full enough that Lev could ignore whatever is bothering him about the situation.

# # # # #

Services available in Chitina (pronounced Chit-nuh) include a post office, tire repair, cafe, hotel, B&Bs, and payphone. Yes, I said payphone. Landlines are the means of communication in this area. Cellphone and wifi are satellite only in most places and to be honest the only reason I had a signal is because I was skimming it anywhere I could find it.

The 1910 log cabin, now the ranger station, is decorated with historic photographs featuring the town of Chitina as a transportation hub, "where the rails meet the trails." Reading from the sign-thingies … trains, stagecoaches, dog sleds, and steamboats all passed through Chitina on their way to the mining and commerce centers of Alaska during Chitina's boom years of 1910-1938. The heyday of Chitina was directly tied to the operation of the Kennecott mines and the Copper River and Northwestern Railway. The railroad was built to haul copper ore from the Kennecott mines to Cordova. Chitina provided an intermediate stop for the trains and their passengers.

The log cabin was one of many built in the town of Chitina around that time. It was constructed for J.C. Martin, the local manager of the Ed S. Orr Stage company. The initials "J.C.M." are still clearly scrawled on the wooden ceiling. The home was praised in the local newspaper as "one of the neatest and most substantial log cabin cottages in Alaska." Uh, okay? What passed for “substantial” in those days must have been crazy. A local crew of craftsmen, working for the National Park Service, rehabilitated the cabin starting in 1991 and rehabilitation to keep the place from suffering irreparable damage is an ongoing project.

After leaving Chitina, it was time for the more challenging road.

“You sure about this Gus?”

Concerned about his concern I asked, “Don’t think Benny and I can do it?”

“To be honest I’m worried about Benny. I know the little guy will give it everything he has but … tell me I’m not dragging him into something he doesn’t want to do.”

Benny Big Ears had heard and walked up to Lev and said, “You aren’t dragging me. I want to do it.” Boy did that sound like something that I’d said a few times myself. Same tone as well.

Lev blinked for a moment and then switched gears. “Okay. But you have to promise me something.” When Benny nodded Lev said, “Same regs as you have with your Aunt Gus. You follow the rules, and you don’t hide if something is hurting. I don’t care if it is a piece of grass in your sock, a stone in your shoe, a blister, if your pack is too heavy … anything, everything … you can’t hide it. And if something is scary or bothering you or whatever, you say that too.”

“I promise Lev. I do.”

“Okay. ‘Cause Benny, it would just tear me apart if something happened to you. You’re important to me, and not just ‘cause you’re important to your Aunt Gus. Okay?”

“Sure thing Lev. And you gotta say the same stuff to Aunt Gus. Deal?”

I nearly laughed at the look on Lev’s face. Hoisted on his own petard. But he nodded and stuck out his hand and agreed, “Deal.”
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________

Aug 3: Wrangell St. Elias – The McCarthy Road Area (Part 2)​


The McCarthy Road winds deep into the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. Once the gateway to tremendous fortunes, it is now a tourism gateway to spectacular scenery, vast wilderness, and adventure. The road isn’t for the faint-of-heart, however. For those willing to leave pavement behind, the road provides access to many natural and historic wonders. The current road started in 1909 as a railway track constructed to support the Kennecott Copper Mines. When large scale mining ended in 1938, most of the rails were salvaged for scrap iron; think all the metal recycling for WW2. In 1971 a new bridge was constructed over the Copper River and the rail bed was covered with gravel, creating today's surface of the McCarthy Road. Narrow and winding, it still reflects its railway origins. When I heard that remnants of railroad ties may surface along with the occasional spike, creating unexpected hazards, I was not pleased but there was no turning back at that point. Although traffic and weather often result in ruts and washboard surfaces, under normal summer conditions most passenger vehicles can make the trip. The road ends at the Kennicott River, a half-mile short of McCarthy and five miles short of historic Kennecott.

The road is very remote, nothing but gravel, and a slow, but incredibly scenic drive. Wowzer. How many times do I need to say “we’re in Alaska!” Despite its unpaved status, it is maintained by the Alaska State DOT. The speed limit is only 35 mph and I kid you not, even that is too fast in some areas. Potholes were all along the length. People should plan on the drive taking at least three hours one-way for the 60-mile drive. The ranger said we should bring food and water because there isn’t anything commercially available on the drive in. Private land adjoins many parts of the road so respect for private property is essential and required. Local landowners run the gamut in temperament but none of them tolerate trespassing tourists (or even trespassing locals). There are a couple of food options in tiny McCarthy and a dining room at the Kennicott Glacier Lodge. But that’s it. And there is no fuel so we planned accordingly by having a full tank in the van plus full spare cans before starting.

I’ll describe the McCarthy Road the same way many bloggers have, by using the mile markers with the beginning being “0” where there is a paved pull-out with vault toilets and exhibit panels, otherwise known to my blog readers as “sign thingies”. I did most of the driving so that Lev could concentrate on locating things to film. I used my phone as a recorder for my own notes. It was a little bothersome until Benny reminded me that my wired earplugs have a mic on them. Let me tell you, there is nothing like feeling the kind of stupid you feel when you realize a six-year-old is smarter than you. Oy. Just beyond the wayside, the road went through a deep, narrow gap known locally as the "railroad cut." It was originally a tunnel but was later altered into an open roadcut for safety reasons. The rocks exposed here are schist and phyllite typical of the Chugach Range (pronounced Choo-gash). Do not ask me where Benny got that bit of info, possibly from the visitor center early on. Man oh man. I thought my brain was a trivia collector but mine is a trash bin compared to his. I have gotta find a way to make sure that stays educational and not just junk food to his brain.

Mile 0.4-0.7: There were several small pullouts with some great views of the confluence of the Copper and Chitina Rivers. The Copper is the only waterway that cuts through the Chugach Mountains, which extend for about 200 miles in an arc across south-central Alaska. At the confluence, the Copper River is smaller than the Chitina River which is considered its tributary. At this point the Copper is about 1/2 mile wide, while the width of the Chitina is over one mile. The Chitina carries more water year-round than the Copper. Even though the Chitina River drains a smaller area than the Copper, it has more runoff due to greater precipitation in its watershed.

The Copper and its tributaries, including the Chitina, drain an area that covers approximately 24,000 square miles. Much of this drainage basin lies within Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve and about 3,500 square miles, or 17% of the drainage basin, is covered by glaciers. Because of this glacier influence, high water in the Copper River typically occurs not during the snow melt of spring, but during summer hot spells that cause rapid melting of ice. Low water usually occurs in late winter when everything is frozen. Rocks exposed on the west (left) side of the road between here and the bridge are gneiss, schist, and phyllite with some quartz veins.

Mile 1.4: There were several small pull-outs that provided views of the rivers. One idiot stopped in the middle of the bridge for photos, not a recommended practice if all the horns making other drivers known was any indication. After the bridge is where the road becomes gravel.

The large snow-covered mountain visible to the north is volcanic Mount Drum (12,010'), part of the Wrangell Mountains. Suspended sediment loads of the Copper and Chitina Rivers are high, but the dissolved sediment loads are low; these rivers are dirty...but not polluted. Millions of tons of natural sediment, mostly silt and clay are carried downstream each year.

The muddy waters that result from all this suspended sediment create an aquatic environment that is not very favorable as a permanent home for most fish. Can you imagine what their gills would look like? Therefore the Copper and Chitina Rivers have rather small resident fish populations. They do, however, have fantastic populations of migrating fish during the times that mature salmon "run" up to clear-water spawning beds and juveniles run down to the ocean each year. The muddy waters of the Copper allow successful salmon fishing by the use of dip nets and fishwheels; neither of these methods would work in clearwater streams or so says the audio file I had playing for Benny’s sake.

Mile 1.6: On the south (right) side of the road was the Copper River Campground. This was a non-Park Service primitive campground. The area had 12 sites, picnic tables, fire pits, and vault toilets. On the north (left) side of the road is the Copper River and the Kotsina River delta. The National Park Service has an easement, an area of land where visitors are granted permission to cross private property, where you can access and view the Copper River. There are signs everywhere asking national park visitors to please follow the easement markers and respect the private property that you are crossing. Visitors can use the small site to park a vehicle, load and unload rafts, and temporarily camp for up to 24 hours. And as we found, an excellent place to view the river and to witness real Alaskans catching red, silver, and king salmon with dipnets and fishwheels.

Mile 2.0-2.5: There are several small turnouts along this stretch of the road where you can see the lower Kotsina River. The Kotsina, a tributary of the Copper River, gets much of its water from Long and Kluvesna Glaciers which drain southward off Mt.Wrangell.

Deposits of a large volcanic debris flow are exposed on the south side of the road and can be also seen in the Kotsina River bluffs. The deposits are from mudflows that raced down the steep slopes of the mountain back when Methuselah’s nappies were still being changed. Materials from this event are called the Chetaslina Volcanic Debris Flow and they were deposited along the Copper Valley and in the lower portions of its tributaries from the Tonsina to the Chitina.

Mile 5.0-5.4
Rocks on the north (left) side of the road are basalt and greenstone of the Nicolai Greenstone rock unit. Don’t ask me what that means, it was on a sign-thingie that we stopped to read for Benny’s sake. There were several small pullouts that offer nice views of the Chitina River and Chugach Mountains to the south.

Mile 10.1: Strelna Lake. A pull-out on the north side of the road provided access to a 1/3-mile trail to Strelna Lake. The Alaska Department of Fish & Game stocks this lake with rainbow trout, although you can find other fish here as well. It must be the time of year for it because there were people fishing all along the shore.

Mile 10.6: Silver Lake. A short trail on the south side of the road provides access to Silver Lake for fishing. The Alaska Department of Fish & Game stocks this lake with rainbow trout, and you may find other fish as well. More fishermen were here but there was also a sign that let people know an aggressive bear had been sited a couple of days earlier.

Mile 12.3: A pull-out on the south side of the road provided access to a 1/4-mile trail to Sculpin Lake. The Alaska Department of Fish & Game stocks this lake with rainbow trout, although you can find other fish here as well. A native Alaskan let Benny get a look at his catch when he saw him run to catch a piece of trash that was blowing across the parking area. I appreciated the time he took and told him so. Then he surprised me by saying, “No problem Aunt Gus.”

“Uh …”

“My sister works in Slana. A couple friends of hers work for the national parks. Good to know you are real and not an actress.”

“Geez,” I said feeling ten kinds of embarrassed. He laughed and we each went on our way.

I turned to Lev who was trying not to laugh. “That does not go to Bob or anyone else. ‘K?”

“No?”

“No. As in N. O.”

Benny pipes up and says, “Aunt Gus and I like our privacy. People can be nice and stuff but we still like our privacy.”

Lev still chuckled but got the message.

Mile 14.5: Kotsina Backcountry Trailhead. The Kotsina Trail is on the north side of the McCarthy Rd and provides access to backcountry hiking routes. Take this trail 2.5 miles to the Nugget Creek trailhead or 3.8 miles to the Dixie Pass trailhead. We took the shorter trail to Nugget Creek and then back and only went a little ways up the actual trail. It was a good way to get the wiggles out.

Mile 15.5: The road starts to run southeast here in a low valley between two long ridges of gravel. According to the audio file that was still playing, these gravel ridges are good examples of lateral moraines that were deposited along the margin of a large glacier as it receded.

Mile 15.9: This is where we entered Federal Land that is managed by Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve.

Mile 17: A few turnouts on the south side of the road offer good views of the Kuskulana River and bridge. The bridge was constructed during the winter of 1910 and is still perched 238 feet above the raging Kuskulana River over a hundred years later. And yes, we had to drive over it. The bridge is one-lane. You have to watch for oncoming traffic and take turns … and nutcases that stop in the middle of the bridge for pictures. Geez Louise.

Mile 17.3: The Kuskulana Bridge Wayside is immediately after you get across the bridge. It has vault toilets and is a gravel pull-out. And trust me, some people would need it after driving over that nightmare in the making. I know that the overseas highway from Florida City to Key West is about the same age but it was rebuilt after a hurricane in the 1930s and has been updating in

Mile 20-21: This area of the road gives you a good idea of how hard it was to construct and how difficult it is to maintain in areas of permafrost, muskeg, and swamps.

Mile 26.8: Clear waters of the Chokosna River support salmon spawning beds. There are signs in the pull outs to leave the areas alone.

Mile 29.0: Gilahina River & Gilahina Trestle Wayside is where a wooden structure exhibit. It was originally 890 feet long and 90 feet high, required one-half million board feet of timber, and was completed in eight days in the winter of 1911. Due to the rugged landscape, over 15% of the entire railway was built on trestles such as this. I’m glad I didn’t have to stand in line at the vault toilets. Instead we took the short, ½-mile hiking trail that gave us a better look at the trestle.

Mile 34.8: The Crystalline Hills north of the road are composed mostly of gneiss and gabbro, but some of the lower slopes are made up of a light colored marble. These hills are an excellent place to see Dall Sheep. Benny and I used our binoculars to look up into the hills and sure enough those bright white spots weren’t patches of snow, but were sheep.

“Look Aunt Gus! Lev can you see them?!”

Lev was using the camera lens that looked like it could have spotted tiny freckles on a frog’s butt all the way on Mars. So that meant yes, Lev could see the sheep. He got some good pictures of the sheep as well as some videos. He promised to show them to Benny after he tinkered with them a bit.

Benny’s excitement let me know he needed to get some wiggles out and it was a good thing that there was a trailhead right there. The Crystalline Hills Trail is a 2.8 mile lightly trafficked loop trail. It was rated moderate but not too bad and the waterfall was a nice bonus feature. We definitely needed our bug spray and I didn’t feel silly attaching the bug net to my hat either. If it wasn’t mosquitos it was flies. And if it wasn’t flies it was gnats. All of them were of the bite-y varieties. Reminder: dob some bug spray on the skin that is exposed because otherwise we’re going to get anemic due to loss of blood. And I’m not really exaggerating.

Mile 44: We changed in Land Status again from Non-Federal Land to privately-managed land which means we were watching our p’s and q’s especially well to not make an annoyance of ourselves to the locals who depend on the land for food and stuff.

Mile 44.5: The Lakina River gets some of its water from melting glaciers. The bridge we crossed was originally built across a river on the Glenn Highway but later removed during a highway upgrade project and then re-assembled on the Lakina. A kind of recycling project. There were signs warning us there have been repeated erosion problems and washouts of the long eastern approach to the bridge and not to make it worse by driving in undesignated areas. Because of the warning sign I insisted on getting out and checking things over before I took the van across. Maybe a little paranoid but I’d rather be safe than sorry.

Mile 45.5: Another lake, this one called Long Lake. Each year, an average of 18,000 sockeye salmon fight there way up the silty Copper and Chitina Rivers to spawn in this lake. Salmon begin entering the lake as late as September and spawning continues until April. I saw bear tracks in the mud around the lake and it made me get the bear spray out, and feel stupid that I hadn’t done it earlier. I also didn’t let Benny get far from me from that point forward either. The track I saw had been fresh.

Mile 48.3: At this turnout, looking across the Long Lake inlet streams, the remnants of a C.R. & N.W. Railway trestle can be seen. Marble and limestone is exposed at the trestle footings and in road cuts nearest the stream. The road cuts through sandstone and conglomerate as it ascends the east side of the stream valley. Really cool looking but I understand limestone as that is what most of the “bedrock” in Florida is. Limestone has its good points and bad. Being the bedrock for something that is often exposed to water would be one of the less smart uses as limestone erodes easily when exposed to water and/or acidity.

Mile 55.2: Another potty break for people traveling on the road. The wayside is a gravel pull-out (real gravel, not lime-rock), and has vault toilets and exhibit panels. Benny and I read the sign-thingies while Lev took a few pictures. We all utilized “the facilities” but the smell was awful and I couldn’t understand why animals hadn’t tried to break in to see what was causing it. Yes, we could have used the head in the van, but I’m trying to avoid over-filling and causing plumbing problems just in case we can’t find a dump station to empty the black tank into.

Mile 56.7: At this mile marker Swift Creek, a small clearwater stream, drains off Fireweed Mountain. Fireweed Mountain is made up of these dark-colored mudstones and light-colored, silica-rich igneous rocks and provided a good backdrop for some pictures that Lev wanted to take. And no, I’m not an amateur geologist. I am however a reader of sign-thingies and broadsides that make me sound smarter than I am.

Mile 58: We were back on Federal Land at this mile marker and once again saw signs for Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve. The signs on the properties that weren’t federal land were something else. Most of them were just “keep off our grass” type signs but there were a few with very rude opinions concerning the feds or certain politicians or even “white people.” It just reinforced the idea that those people didn’t want anyone “trespassing” for any reason. There was a “… protected by canons” sign that made me blink. Another one that warned that there were dragons on the property. More serious were the ones that announced the property owner was armed and one of those went further to say they were also a good tracker … use your imagination. All of them gave the impression that they take their property rights seriously around here.

Mile 58.1-58.4: Along this stretch we got our first look at Kennicott Glacier and River on the southeast side of the road. The Kennicott River runs from the glacier down to the Nizina River, so it is only five miles long. The Kennicott River drops over 250 feet in its five-mile run between the glacier and the Nizina River.

Mile 58.6: Barely two-tenths of a mile further down the road was the McCarthy Road Information Station. This NPS information station has posted information that is updated regularly during the summer but seldom any other time. Day-use parking is available as well as vault toilets and a short hiking trail; however, no overnight camping or parking is available. The station is generally not staffed. I guess they don’t check the place out very often because there was some really rude graffiti, most of it about “whites” that, the kind that wouldn’t be tolerated if it was a reverse opinion and posted on private property. That was a hard one to explain to Benny because it makes the graffiti “artist” look stupid and ignorant despite the possibility that they have a good reason.

Mile 59.4 - The End of the Road!: Yippee skippy, we made it to the Kennicott River & Parking area. All visitors must leave their vehicles at the end of the road and walk, bike, or take a shuttle into McCarthy and Kennecott. We opted to walk because the line for the shuttle was pretty long and the hike in wasn’t very long at all.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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Aug 3: Wrangell St. Elias – The McCarthy Road Area (Part 3)​


First came McCarthy, just a half-mile from the footbridge. From the sign-thingie: Homesteaded in 1906, McCarthy quickly grew into a lively community with a story all its own. McCarthy served as the supply and recreation stop for the entire Kennecott mining district. Town history is well portrayed by the local museum and guide services. Today, McCarthy retains much of its original flavor.

Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark was another 5 miles from the footbridge, but the walk gave Lev time to get some additional film and photos to send to Bob to forward to the Director and Producer. Once we got there it was like opening a time capsule. The impressive structures and artifacts left behind when the mines were depleted represent a time of exploration, discovery, and technological innovation. Stabilizing and rehabilitating many of the old buildings is an ongoing project so you can’t really wander into any of the structures. The photos that Lev got were pretty spectacular nonetheless.

The Kennecott Visitor Center is located within the historic landmark. Park rangers and local guide services conduct programs and town tours daily during the summer. It is also where most hiking trails depart including the trail to Root Glacier, a destination for tomorrow.

“You mean we’re sleeping here? What about the van?” Benny asked with eyes as big as silver dollars as Dad would have said.

“I thought you deserved a bit of an adventure,” I told him.

“So that’s why you said to bring the Crew Quarters and said they’d need to mind their p’s and q’s.”

“Is it a problem?” I asked keeping it light just in case there was one.

“Do … do we all get to stay together?”

I looked at Lev who seemed to be surprised to be included in the conversation. “Er … is that okay? Do you want me to stay in a different tent like I did in Florida?”

“No!” Benny said quickly. “I want us all to be in the same tent.”

“You sure you don’t mind being a little squished? I mean, you’re kinda going to be stuck between your Aunt Gus and I and …”

“Oh, the Crew thinks that will help us all stay … uh … warm and stuff.”

Lev was picking up on how to help Benny feel secure. A little humor, distraction, and then let him determine if he wants to be more specific. This time it appeared all he needed was reassurance that we’d all stay together like we have been doing. I know he is six, but despite our unusual living arrangements he is an innocent six and seems to take comfort in the puppy pile that we have occasionally made the last few weeks.

Lev eats that stuff up. Meaning he seems to need Benny to need him to be part of the picture we all make together. Occasionally my worry over what comes next makes me wonder if I shouldn’t be enforcing more boundaries but in a weird way Lev needs Benny as much as Benny needs me, and as much as Benny needs Lev right back. I really am not ready to deal with what happens when things come to an end.

I took my mind off those thoughts by taking Benny to explore the Kennecot Mines visitor center and the restored ghost town the buildings made. Lev surprised us with tickets for the Kennecott mine tour. It took us into the 14-story concentration building and through several other buildings. I’m beginning to wonder if Lev doesn’t know how to not spoil us. That is just one of the reasons I need to make sure to watch the budget. Don’t get me wrong, Lev is responsible and all the rest, he does have a budget and knows how to stick to it. He also just … spoils us with surprises. And I want to do things so that Lev can continue to do what he seems to need, not just want, to do on occasion.

At the McCarthy Museum we started a three-mile round trip hike to explore the Wagon Road and see the toe and terminal morraine of Kennicott Glacier. It is an easy-ish (there were a couple of moderate sections) hike along the old wagon road between McCarthy and Kennecott. It is approximately a 4.5-mile hike and takes 1.5 to 2 hours one-way. The trail slowly ascends through the forest, with some views of the mountains and the old Kennecott graveyard. A side trail, about 1 mile from McCarthy, will bring you to the terminal moraine at the toe of the Kennicott Glacier. This area has incredible views up the Kennicott Valley.

Despite the extra-long daylight hours it was soon time to head to our camping spot for the night; Jumbo Creek Camping Area that was 1.4 miles from Kennecott. We decided since the parking lot was guarded, that we would primitive-camp on Jumbo Creek and then start the hike to Root Glacier the next day. The primitive camping area has no amenities and can only be reached via foot travel. I understood Lev’s insistence on a good gravity water filter when I discovered that the only water available at this camp is from nearby streams. I’ve primitive-camped before but never with Benny, despite all our travels.

I was a little more confident in the bear boxes that were available for storing food. We brought camp food that all we needed to do is add hot water to and decided to use the containers the food was in for our “dishes” rather than have to worry about washing anything beyond our sporks. The sporks, extra food and snacks for tomorrow and our hygiene items fit in a small, locking float bag that we stored in the bear-resistant storage boxes.

Benny was trying so hard to stay awake until Lev and I came to bed so that I finally just said, “Climb in your sleeping bag Little Bear and get comfortable. I’m about to get ready myself.”

“Really?”

“Yeppers. We are going hiking on a glacier tomorrow. Need to get all the rest we can. Think you’re ready for that?”

“Sure!” he said, cracking a huge yawn and finally giving in and crawling in and falling asleep before he even had both legs in the sleeping bag. He had a death grip on the float bag with the Crew in it.

“He gonna be okay?” Lev asked.

“Yeah.” Taking a closer look at him I said, “C’mon, let’s both get a little extra sleep.”

“Guess you’re right.”

“Something on your mind?”

“Not really. Just … just glad it’s you.”

“Huh?”

“That I’m with. Other women would be … er … expecting things.”

“Oooo kay. Can you translate that for me? Because the way I see it I don’t have to expect things, you just do them without me expecting them.”

He gave a silly grin. “That’s what I’m talking about. You see things different. Instead of wondering why I didn’t get us a room in the lodge, you … aw, you know what I mean. Don’t you?”

“Um … not really. But if that means that you are okay with me enjoying nature and the three of us being together then good.” He smiled even bigger but then nearly cracked his own jaws on a yawn.

I tried not to show I was a little nervous about the sleeping arrangements. Not the three of us in a tent but the fact that we were in a tent and that I’d seen fresh bear tracks several times during the day. I strapped on a wrist-sheath knife and tried to do it so Lev wouldn’t see but he did. He winked at me and lifted his pants leg so that I saw he had a boot knife on his ankle. Knowing that Lev was there to share security with me made it so that I could relax a little more.

Good thing too as something woke me in the middle of the night. I wasn’t sure what it was but there was a wuffle-snort out into the dark of the night, something being brushed against, but that was all and the night slowly returned to normal. I would have said I imagined it if Lev hadn’t reached out in the dark and put a hand on me to let me know he was awake as well. I guess we both fell back asleep soon thereafter.

Resources:
https://www.nps.gov/wrst/planyourvisit/upload/Chitina-Site-Bulletin-508-compliant.pdf
Audio Tours - Wrangell - St Elias National Park & Preserve (U.S. National Park Service)
Audio Tours - Wrangell - St Elias National Park & Preserve (U.S. National Park Service)
Junior Ranger booklet for Wrangell-St. Elias: https://www.nps.gov/wrst/learn/kidsyouth/upload/Jr-Ranger-Web.pdf
Caribou Creek Trail: Caribou Creek Trail and Cabin (nps.gov)
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________

Aug 4 – Wrangell-St. Elias – Kennicott Area​


Weather: 70F/55F

I was awake right at twilight which was 4:16 am. I rolled over to find Lev’s eyes open as well. In unspoken communication we got up and decided to take care of nature’s call. Benny woke up needing to go as well. It was still early, sunrise wouldn’t be until 5:19 but by silent and mutual agreement we decided to get on the trail early. We weren’t the only ones.

It was chilly, at least to this Florida girl, making going to the bathroom interesting but it was to be a “warm” day with a high of 70 degrees F. After “morning ablutions” we got our stuff out of the bear box, and then quietly made breakfast. I surprised them with corn muffins in addition to the instant oatmeal that had lots of fruits and nuts in it. We had debated taking any food on the trail but the only compromise we could come up with was some gluten free meal bars.

We still hadn’t said anything about the previous night until Lev distracted Benny by asking him to make sure all the parts of the stove were in the bag. While Benny looked away, Lev pointed to the ground a few feet away from the tent and there were the biggest bear prints I’ve ever seen.

Before we started on the trail, we double checked to make sure that our food was stored in the bear-proof containers in camp. The tent, sleeping bags, and ground pads fit in amazingly small stuff bags and we left those in there as well. I for one didn’t want to have to hike with equipment we didn’t need, especially as it turned off “warm”.

A surprisingly large number of people were up and out and about, most of them heading for the Root Glacier Trail. The trail isn’t a long one, only four miles round trip, but it is a busy one and can take anywhere from two to six hours to complete. The turnoff to the toe of the Root Glacier is about 15 minutes past Jumbo Creek and clearly marked. You can also pass the glacier turn-off trail and continue hiking all the way "around the bend" of the Root Glacier to get an up-close look at the Stairway Icefall that spills 6,000 feet off Mt. Regal. Along the way you'll get great views down onto the Root Glacier, where you can see and hear bizarre glacial features.

There are really two parts to the hike. First is the stretch from Kennecott up to the glacier which is 2.4 miles one-way. That makes getting to and from the glacier a minimum of 4.8 miles. Then there is the part where you are walking on the glacier which is another 2.2 miles round trip. So, the Root Glacier trail is total of seven miles. More than the length is the 1,500-feet ascent.

The initial 2.4 miles is mostly flat but let me tell you, the mosquitoes were bad even with the Deet. I may have felt initially silly with my netting on my hat but that feeling didn’t last long once the infernal gnats made an appearance. The bugs were the worst at the two creek crossings we had to make. Out on the glacier the bugs were nearly non-existent so I could raise the netting.

Right after crossing Jumbo Creek is where the trail continues to the mine. We were going to do that trail later so switched to the spur trail which turned to gravel on the way down to the glacier. You stay on the gravelly stuff right up to the ice and then right before you get on the ice we put our crampons on our shoes to keep from falling on our butts.

I gotta say I have now experienced some ridiculous amounts of fun and adventure. I’m serious. We walked on the glacier. And we weren’t the only creatures walking along the glacier. Bears. As in plural. And none of them cubs, or at least they didn’t look like cubs to me. Good grief. I let Lev take all the pictures because I had a death grip on Benny and the Bear Spray. I swear I’d rather deal with sharks. At least sharks I know my magnetic shark deterrent will make them ignore me and if that doesn’t work then the stun gun will drive them off. Bears just seem like super cranky snackers … as in they will snack on a hiker just ‘cause they are handy.

Fine. I might be a little silly, but bears don’t do a thing for me, at least not when they are as close as they’ve been. My Little Bear? Yes. Great big fat bears in the wild? Not so much. I don’t care if people consider their waddling butts cute. Uh uh.

There are no set trails on the glacier. That is part of the fun and part of the danger because the glacier is always changing. There are pools of blue water that are there one day and gone the next. Crevasses form and close. There are small canyons. There are also these things called moulins that form from flowing water. Not too far in the distance you can see Stairway Icefall, the second largest in the world. The largest one is in Nepal.

We spent roughly three hours wandering around on the glacier and it … was … cool. There is no way to ever repay Lev for inviting us along on this adventure. I tried to say something a couple of times and he just gave me the la-la-la face. I’ll figure something out that doesn’t leave either one of us embarrassed but it is going to take time. And time is one thing I worry about running out of.

We walked back from the glacier and back to the trailhead for the Erie Mine Trail which continues past the turn to the Root Glacier, running parallel to the glacier for approximately 2.5 more miles. The trail continued in and out of brush and along the top of the moraine, above the glacier. And the bugs were back in force. Near the end of the trail, the Root Glacier is below on the left, and the Stairway Icefall is further up valley.

The hike had been glorious but all three of us were tired. Rather than spending another night in the primitive camp, we gathered our gear from the bear box, took a shuttle to the van, and then headed to the closest RV camp that we could find. The rangers had hung signs that there was a bear in the area, and we didn’t want to risk it. Doh. We decided to head back toward Chitina.

Our camp wound up being in the RV section of the Ranch House Lodge in Glenallen. “You sure you don’t mind?” Lev asked.

“The only thing I mind Lev is that you keep worrying about needing time to do your job. Just tell me how I can help.”

Straight away he said, “I need the signal booster running so I can upload the files after I finish some editing.”

“Done. The fact they have free wifi here along with the full hook ups will make that easy. Do you want to work tonight?”

“Uh uh. Sleep. Tomorrow morning I’m going to set up outside if the weather holds and …”

“Don’t you want to work here in the van?”

“Nah. Outside is fine … assuming the weather holds. It will keep my head clear.”

It had been a long drive, nearly three and a half hours, from Kennecott to the lodge with some stopping here and there when Lev saw something for “filler”. I was tired too, but Benny still had a little wiggle in him. I told Lev to climb into the platform bed and grab some sleep, that I’d take the floor this time.

“No.”

“You sound like Benny. Stop fuss …”

“I said no. Look …”

“Then I’ll climb up there with you if you are going to get cranky.”

He’s mouth hung open for a minute then he just relaxed. “I swear you don’t have anything to worry about Gus.”

I sighed. “Lev I know this has gotta be weird for you. You’ve …”

“I don’t want to talk about anything that came before this,” he interrupted me saying. “As long as you trust me, I’m fine. Seriously. This is just … look, just trust me.”

“I do or I wouldn’t have … er … said what I said.”

“Good. You don’t think it is going to confuse Benny?”

“No. He’ll just think of it as more of the tent buddies stuff.”

“Then that’s how we’ll play it. And if … yeah … yeah I need to grab a little extra sleep. You two won’t leave?”

“No,” I told him as he obviously needed to be reassured. “I’m just going to let him play a little longer then we’ll call it a night.”

“Good deal.”

Resources:
Root Glacier Erie Mine Trail (nps.gov)
Ranch House Lodge Reviews updated 2021 (campendium.com)
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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Aug 5: Wrangell-St. Elias – workday in Glenallen​


While Lev prepared videos and stills, I went over the van for any maintenance that needed doing. I also scrubbed things since he was working outside rather than in. And since the brain hamster was threatening demonic possession, I also created some busywork for myself otherwise known as checking the inventory and making a list of supplies that we would need to pick up on our next re-supply run including laundry supplies, etc. Benny was happy to play though he was just as interested in helping me as well as working with his art supplies. I fixed three good meals

Breakfast I made omelets. I swear you would think Benny never got fed the way he can eat. Lev only ate at a reasonable speed because one hand was filled with a cup of coffee and the other hand with a stylus he was making notes with on his tablet. If he wanted to eat, he had to put one or the other down to pick up his fork and it was always a struggle for him to figure which one to give up.

Lunch I used the last of the gluten-free hot dog rolls as they were getting long in the tooth. Benny had a blast being in charge of “grilling” the hot dogs in the solar cooker. Add some chips and some chili and cheese plus regular condiments and there went an easy camp lunch that didn’t require much clean up.

Supper was a little fancier because for some reason I was running a little nostalgic for our fondue and s’mores fun nights we had during the Florida Assignment. So, since we had it I fixed Alaskan Crab Fondue[1] and Mini Baked Alaska s’mores[2] to use up the little bit of ice cream that had been lingering in the freezer since there really wasn’t enough for three full servings.

There was a fire ring and whoever had this site before us left us some wood. Both Benny and Lev mentioned all the various s’mores that I had fixed for them while on the Florida Assignment. Maybe, assuming I can find everything at resupply, I’ll start doing that again. Might even do a fondue every once in a while. I mean I don’t know why they called the stuff I fixed for supper a fondue but whatever. I made it in the solar oven, adjusting it by making everything gluten-free, and trust me that it went over well enough there were no leftovers.

I feel accomplished. Inside of the van is once again up-to-Grandma Barry’s-standards clean. Our supplies are re-organized and arranged in meal plans for the next week or so. The Lavario got a work out and laundry is about as clean as I can get it for now. The head is scrubbed and hygienic … amazing how gross two males can manage to get it. Yuck. Potable water all topped off and gray and black water tanks emptied and sanitized. Beds aired out and sheets washed and sleeping bags hung on a line outside during the day to freshen. Same for our pillows. Under the hood checked and windshield and windows cleaned. I pulled up the flooring and scrubbed it the best I could and swept out all the dirt that had accumulated under it. The linoleum will eventually need replacing but that is going to have to wait. Lastly I got on top of the van and checked over the solar panels and checked the kayak over as well. So far so good on all of that.

When I did the dinner dishes I considered giving all of the dishes a good scrub but the hamster was tired and though I might have wanted to clean out all of the cabinets I managed to keep myself from going quite that far with my “spring cleaning.”

Lev had worked outside all this time with his back to the van. He was in work mode and though he registered the laundry I was pretty sure he hadn’t paid that much attention. So, when it was time to hit the hay he helped me to put all of his stuff up in the back which he realized I had organized. That’s just normal stuff for me.

I had taken the trash to the recycling cans and asked Lev to keep an eye on Benny please. I needed a little space from the boy ‘tude. I came back to find them both just sitting on the picnic bench.

“What?” I asked thinking there was a problem.

“Um … er … it’s … really clean in there.”

“Dude, it better be after today. Just set your boots in the shoe tray.”

“Uh … we can get inside?”

I looked at Benny who just shrugged. Turning back to Lev I said, “Hamster needed to be beaten into submission so I thought I would take advantage of it and did all the delayed cleaning. Thanks for not pitching a fit about it but, let’s hit the hay. I’m actually kinda beat.”

“No kidding,” Lev muttered under his breath still looking a little shell-shocked.

Turns out Benny and Lev went to sleep almost immediately and I suddenly couldn’t sleep. But I think I can at least try now that the sun has finally decided to dim a little more.


[1] Alaska Crab Fondue - Recipe - Cooks.com
[2] Mini S’mores Baked Alaskas
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________

Aug 6: Wrangell >> Anchorage >> Seward​


Phew, the park is a “mere” 6 hours from the main visitor center at Wrangell-St. Elias; definitely easier than moving between some of the other parks. And the route went right through Anchorage, (little over three hours), making that a perfect stopping point to stock up on supplies, re-fuel, etc.

We also found out that Bob and Kent wanted to meet us at this place called the Moose’s Tooth. Yes, you read that correctly. It’s a popular pizza place right in the middle of everything. Not a tourist trap but a place locals wait in line for as well. Bob asked us to order our pizza and if we didn’t mind, we’d eat in the parking lot and go over a few things.

“That sounds … ominous,” I told Lev.

“Nah. Bob doesn’t hint. If the crap was going to hit the fan he’d come out and say it. What bothers me is that Kent is going to be with him. That says something but I don’t know what.”

Since I was driving Lev looked up the menu online to see if there was anything he and Benny could eat and low and behold they have a full line of gluten-free options. Either it could be a cauliflower crust – something I didn’t care for but would eat – or there was a true gluten-free dough. Both he and Benny wanted the gluten-free dough and Lev asked if I minded that he bought three pizza’s so we could have leftovers.

“Why should I mind?”

“Because of your menus. I don’t know what you have planned and don’t want to screw up the supplies.”

One of these days Lev and I are going to have to have a talk, or should I say another talk. “Thank you but if I get that inflexible, I’m the problem not you. Let’s not feed my control issues too much.” I said it with a grin, so he knew I was just trying to take some sting out of the problems we occasionally have. “Pizza sounds divine.”

Benny Big Ears said, “Pizza sounds yummy. Divine isn’t good enough.”

“You heard the boy. Order a pizza.”

Well I wasn’t the only one hankering for pizza. Lev bought three large pizzas guaranteeing that I wouldn’t have to cook for at least a couple of meals. The prices didn’t thrill me, but Lev gave me that “I dare you to complain” look he sometimes gets when my budget mindedness runs up against his need to please.
  • Call of the Wild because reindeer meat was just something we couldn’t avoid trying - Reindeer Sausage, Steak, Bacon, Portabella & Crimini Mushrooms, Red Peppers, Green Onions, Garlic Cream Sauce, Mozzarella, Provolone, Garlic Oil
  • Aloha Escape because we both liked pineapple on our pizza - Canadian Bacon, Pineapple, Mozzarella, Provolone, Marinara
  • Amazing Apricot because it sounded so bizarre it was something we had to try - Blackened Chicken, Cream Cheese, Apricot Sauce, Red Peppers, Carrot Threads, Green Onions, Cilantro, Mozzarella, Provolone

We called ahead to order the pizza and it was ready when we arrived, and we took it and ate our fill right there in the parking lot. Bob waived and we pulled in next to them. They surprised us with some local craft root beer … the fact that I don’t drink is apparently just an established fact now … and a bottle of house wine from the Moose’s tooth poured into plastic solo cups with one for Lev. I got out a table for them to use. I was getting Benny his pizza when I heard Bob tell Lev, “Gretchen had to go back to the states. She broke her leg.”

“What?! Is she okay?” Lev asked while visions of some of my own near misses danced in my head.

Kent responded rather abruptly. “Her own fault. She promised me that her blog was on hiatus until this project was in the can. Then she went off on her own without letting anyone know her direction. Instead of working on this project she was working on one for her blog … that would have included shots from this one which was another ding against her … us … because some of what she was going to use was my work and I’d already told her no.”

Bob added, “If another group of hikers hadn’t spotted her, she could have been in some serious trouble.”

“Yeezus. You okay Kent?”

I heard some surprise in the man’s voice when he answered, “Yeah, but … er … thanks man. Gretch and I were already breaking. She was pizzed that I wouldn’t sign over the okay to use my work, but I’d already promised those particular stills to my sister.”

“Louanne? She still working with that conservancy group?”

They moved where I couldn’t hear the rest of the conversation, but they quickly came back around to the side of the van I had open so that Lev could grab some pizza and the three men could talk about the assignment while sitting in camp chairs I had set up next to the table.

Forty-five minutes later Lev was asking if we were ready to go and I nodded. “Bob says there’s a Fred Myer around the corner from here. Let’s top off there and I’ll fill you in as we go.”

After Lev confirmed that Gretchen was off the project he said, “That means that the rest of us are going to have to take up her portion. Not a hardship but it’s going to mean more editing work and time. Before we leave Anchorage, I need to make sure I have the editing programs updated. It might not be a bad idea for you to do your personal tech as well.”

“Yeah. I ran into an upgrade issue on the ferry and didn’t have a signal to fix it right away.”

“While we do the shopping, I’ll give you an overview of what Bob says they are looking for from each team member and some other things they now have in mind. And Chan and Diego are going to be working with us at Kenai Fjords and Katmai. They’re holding an RV spot for us in Seward, but they are staying in a motel.”

“Where is the rest of the team?”

“Doing some flyovers, drone work, sound board composing, that sort of thing.”

“Not something you would do if Benny and I weren’t weighing you down?”

“No. Definitely not. I’ve worked with drones – you remember the one I used in Florida for a bit until there were too many places that stopped allowing them – and they can get some incredible shots, but that’s not my preferred medium. And sound is not my forte. Same for the rest of it. And before you ask, yes I’m sure.”

The Fred Myer gave us the opportunity to resupply our fresh items, like greens and eggs, and something I’d been craving – whole milk - as well as top off some of our staple items. While I tried to apologize for drinking nearly a quart of milk like a hog, we drove from Anchorage to Kenai Fjords National Park Visitor Center in Seward.

“Stop. I’ve watched you down milk for months now and should have realized you weren’t drinking it like you did in Florida.”

“It isn’t exactly cheap around here. Sometimes I just crave it the way other people crave a cup of coffee.”

“Then don’t apologize. I was reading that people crave things when their body needs it. We’ve gotten in some good hikes the last little bit. Your bones were probably just wanting it.”

I looked to see if he was joking with me and was happy to find out he wasn’t. “Thanks,” I told him. “I don’t know what it is. Even when I was a kid I could go through a gallon of milk every couple of days.”

“Like I said if you want it then drink it. You and Benny both probably need more than you’ve been getting.”

“Don’t get that look.”

“What look,” he asked too innocently.

“Like you are planning on a way to have a dairy at our disposal. NIDO is full fat dried milk. I’ll just start making that up so we can have more to drink. That’s nearly the only milk we had when we were doing the original adventure at the national parks.”

“Fine. But say something if you need more,” he responded, willing to accept my explanation.

Kenai Fjords, our destination, is one of the few Alaska national parks you can drive to. It is less than three hours from Anchorage and we were going to be based in Seward. From there we’d explore the park by both water and land. The boat tours and water taxis into the park depart from Seward, and the Exit Glacier and Harding Ice Field trailhead are 12 miles from town. There is no entrance fee for Kenai Fjords National Park which tickled my frugal gene but I left the sticker on the van just in case it helped in some other area.

I allowed Benny to use my tablet to look up some things for Kenai Fjords National Park, the homeland of the Dena’ina and Alutiiq people. He was disappointed to discover there was no Junior Ranger program and it surprised me as well given the proximity to Anchorage. Lev told Benny we’d think of something and reminded him that he’d promised to set the Crew up for a group photo shoot. That tickled him just enough to distract him from his disappointment.

We made it to our camp at Waterfront Park to find that Diego and Chan were there holding a site for us. They’d been in Seward twenty-four hours already and filled Lev in on what had been going on. While they did that, I scoped out our location. I found out that it is an easy walk into town for restaurants, breweries, laundry, and the Sea Life Center. That went into an info file in my head of stuff that was good but unlikely to help us. On the other hand, finding out that the hiking at the Exit Glacier/Harding Ice Field and other locations were just a short drive away was good as I was a little burnt out on driving the long distances we’d been doing just to get from spot to spot. I know I did the same thing in the continental national parks and in Florida but driving in Alaska is a completely different experience. Not bad, just exhausting if you are doing it every day.

Diego and Chan took off not long after we arrived, and Lev looked over some of the ideas they’d come up with to fulfill their assignments. I had a couple of hungry gators to feed … hmmm, maybe I should change that to grizzlies … so threw together a one-pot meal of sausage and rice.

It was great to sit outside (we had a fire pit but no picnic table, our neighbor had the opposite) and look at the mountains and the glaciers across the bay - we spotted a few otters as well giving Lev an opportunity for some wildlife photography and giving Benny a chance to show the Crew the benefits of using their indoor quiet voices … because otters are curious creatures and will come closer to shore if you don’t startle them away by being too loud.

Clean up was easy but it was a little harder to get Benny to wind down and go to bed. He has gotten used to lots of activity to expend his energy on and being most of the day in the van did the opposite for him. I told him if he would chill out, he could build a tent and have the crew in there and watch a documentary. He was all over that and sure enough, tv time became snooze time in less than fifteen minutes.

When Lev started to unroll his bedding to sleep on the floor I made a command decision.

“Look, you don’t … you know … think less of my morals and we can continue using the sleeping platform at the same time. If I have to beat you off there is going to be trouble.”

He looked at me and said, “Gus, have I ever tried to push the boundaries?”

“Not the point Lev. I’m … taking a risk here. I know sleeping in the same bed will sound like … sound like I …”

“No one has to know ‘cause it is no one’s business but ours. And the same rules still apply. Not to mention – if you want to know the truth – having Benny sleeping just feet away isn’t exactly conducive to what you are worried about.”

“Oh. Well … um … geez I sound ten years old.”

“No. You sound like a woman with commonsense. Would have given a lot for my mother to have had that kind of sense when I was Benny’s age. But yeah, if you don’t mind the bed sounds great. The floor is good but the bed … yeah. Assuming you really don’t mind.”

“I don’t mind so long as we keep the boundaries.”

“Done deal. Thanks.”

So yeah. I know how people would take the change in arrangements if it became common knowledge, but if Lev and I have some boundaries maybe we’ll both sleep better.

Resources:
Italian Sausage Rice with Red Peppers and Tomatoes - One Pot {GF, DF}
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________

Aug 7: Kenai Fjords National Park - Exit Glacier Area​


Today was a major hike. Come to find out that the Exit Glacier area is the only part of the park accessible by road. We also confirmed there is no Junior Ranger program, but there is an Art in the Park backpack that can be checked out for kids Benny’s age. He did such an amazing job with it today that Lev suggests getting him some books on art to see if it is a one off or if this is one of his talents.

“Kid has potential Gus. Serious potential if this is an example of what he is capable of.”

“You think? I mean he’s always been good at drawing – hence all the art supplies I try to keep for him – but you think it can be more than a hobby?” I asked since I trust Lev on the subject because of his career.

“Yeah. But being a professional artist is different than it being a hobby no matter how good you are. A matter of temperament and that sort of thing. But you don’t want to just force it on him either. Er … want my opinion?”

“Or I wouldn’t have asked,” I told him with a nod.

“Give him some tools to play with and see if it does anything for him or if he prefers to just play. That’s how I figured out I could take a hobby to a career. The tools were a thrill, not a turn off, and they stretched me to learn the technical side, not just composition and stuff like that.”

I’m going to take Lev’s advice, I’m just not sure how just yet. Benny has a good eye and can draw by hand the way some people can hear a piece of music and then play it on the piano without ever knowing how to read music. He’s not a prodigy but he definitely has some natural talent. I just need to figure out if he is interested in going to the next level. And not being an artistic type myself I’m going to need to tread carefully so I don’t squash Benny instead of broadening his horizons.

Today we spent exploring the Exit Glacier Trail System. Here you can explore the trails, walk very close to an active glacier, or take a ranger-led walk. We did it on our own.

There are some glaciers that you can drive to for an overlook, we’ve done it a few times since the beginning of our adventure. And we’ve even hiked to a few, Root Glacier the most recent example. But there are very few glaciers that are an easy stroll to get to. Exit Glacier proved to be one of those rare experiences. With just a 10-to-15-minute drive out of Seward, we could hike right up to Kenai Fjords National Park's Exit Glacier and get close enough to hear the blue ice crackle.

Exit Glacier is one of the most visited glaciers in the world because of its accessibility. And by reading the sign-thingies we learned that Exit Glacier earned its name from grateful backcountry travelers. It descends about 3,000 feet in just a few miles, forming a natural ramp for mountaineers exiting the Harding Icefield. Its hard ice with all its fluted and crevassed surface is close to a visitor center in the only portion of Kenai Fjords National Park that’s accessible by road. Despite how close it was to Seward, it felt like we were on the backside of beyond. Or it did when we were having to compete with too many people to get space at an overlook or to pass along the trails.

A network of level, well-maintained trails stretch from the visitor center to the toe of the glacier. The first trail we took was Glacier View Loop (one mile total) to a viewing spot overlooking the outwash plain that was a sweeping panorama of the glacier. From that loop, the Glacier Overlook Trail extends another .6 mile and climbed part way up the exposed rock to an overlook of the glacier itself. There were markers in various locations that showed the retreating locations of the glacier’s toe over the past 120 years. The glacier receded a lot until the late 20s and then from there into the 30s it gained some ground back, it is slowly receding again but it has been doing so for hundreds of years. There was good footing and several sign-thingies along the trails explaining how the plant life returns after the ice.

Another trail we walked was called the "Edge of the Glacier Trail" (also known as the Lower Trail) to get a good photo in front of glacier ice. Wowzer, when you get up close and personal with the glacier it looks huge. For physically fit hikers, a strenuous four-mile trail parallels the glacier’s north edge on a 3,000-foot ascent to the ice field. Ha ha ha … calling it strenuous was pretty much what it was to this Florida girl. Benny had fun. I think I know now why I prefer the idea of us staying down South as our permanent living arrangements. That stuff is wet and cold even with good boots and good gloves. And I was not amused when Lev dropped a pinch of the slushy stuff down the back of my collar.

“Do you have a death wish?” I asked him casually.

He laughed, “Mebbe.”

“Uh huh. Just remember I’m in charge of the kitchen.”

Then he got silly and there is no staying mad at the guy. I swear it’s like he wears Teflon or something.

The hike, though challenging, was way worth it because it rewarded us with an overlook of the 700-square-mile Harding Icefield, the source of 38 named glaciers, including Exit and the tidewater glaciers on the Kenai Fjords outer coast. No special equipment was necessary for the trail, however we used crampon’s and hiking sticks as well. Crampons are these strap-on cleats for your hiking shoes or boots. Climbers use them but also people that are walking in snow or ice. As always I had extra socks in case our feet got wet but Lev insisting on good footwear back at Cabela’s made all the difference in our personal comfort.

One of the things that was different and more important is that the trail traverses some fragile alpine areas. We had to take extra care not to damage the vegetation via shortcuts.

I guess I should add that Diego and Chan were with us, but I mostly ignored them, then thought better of it after we got back to the van.

“Uh … Diego? I didn’t mean to be rude.”

“Eh?”

“I guess Benny and I ignored you and Chan. Lev said to leave you alone to do your jobs but …?”

“Chica don’t worry about it. That just means there will be less to cut and leave on the editing floor. Plus, we were able to move through the trail faster.”

Chan said, “Don’t sweat it Gus. Just consider us part of the furniture.”

“But you aren’t. Benny and I aren’t actors … or even acting. But if you need something in particular you aren’t getting sing out. If I don’t get it Lev can explain it.”

“Good enough. And don’t get nervous. You’re doing good.”

I sighed. “I’m not nervous exactly but I get that this is you all’s livelihood. I don’t want to be a problem.”

“Stop with the worries then. The rest of the team are used to divas, you’re a different type from what they’ve worked with. Chan and I get it. Lev obviously got it first. Bob thinks breaking us down into smaller work groups will keep the personality conflicts to a minimum. Don’t give Lev a hard time and you won’t get one from me.”

“Er … good to know,” I told him. “Are you guys coming back with us? If you are I can cook out.”

“Nah. Gotta get some of this stuff ready for Bob. He’s feeling the heat.”

I glanced over at Lev, concerned that he needed more time, but he was showing Benny something on one of his digital cameras. I hurried over and asked Lev if he needed more photos. He said negative, that he was ready if everyone else was. Turns out that Lev rode back with Diego and Chan so they could discuss the day’s shoot. I drove back to the RV camp and pulled in and was trying to figure out whether I needed to cook for Lev or just Benny and me.

I jumped when there was a knock on the van but it turned out to be Lev. “I thought you needed to work with Diego and Chan?”

“Nope. Turns out we are already on the same page. Need some help with dinner?”

“No. Go ahead and work if you need to.”

“You sure you don’t mind?”

I just looked at him and he grinned and said he was going to work in the front area. He pulled out his sound cancelling headphones, but I still asked Benny to make sure and keep it down.

“Can we build a tent and finish watching one of the dock-mentaries?”

“Which one?”

I said fine since it was an educational one on Alaskan sea life, and I handled dinner. It was too cool to be outside – at least in my opinion – especially after being out in the cool temps all day. It was also nice to get the boots off, give them a chance to dry, and just slide on some mukluks to keep my feet warm.

Between dinner and the cold Benny pooped out before the “dock-mentary” was over with. I left the tent up and just put an extra blanket on him. As I was drawing the curtain I realized the Lev had fallen asleep with his chin on his chest. I debated but woke him. He apologized but I told him don’t get crazy, he’d been carrying all his camera equipment around all day, that stuff isn’t light weight.

He grinned and admitted he was ready to call it a night and without a fuss he crawled up to the platform after giving me a look to make sure it was still okay. I had a few more things to do in my adulting world including responding to another email from Rick Royston.

He is back in the States permanently for sure this time, not that there was really any doubt in his mind that it was where he belonged. The job he took in Tallahassee is his “dream job”. He brought his uncle back because his health issues need more direct care and his insurance wouldn’t pay for the treatment down there. And his uncle has decided to relocated to the States permanently as well. Rick choosing to go back to and remain in the states made Rosa see the light between him and her old boyfriend. Rosa is now Rick’s fiancé and Aunt Sylvia also came to the States with his uncle to keep house. Rosa’s mother claims to be clearing up immigration issues but also isn’t so keen to return, or so she says so is still in Costa Rica. Rosa has decided to get her GED and eventually take some college courses if it doesn’t interfere with her kid’s school schedule. I was right, he said, that his uncle does have a thing for Rosa’s aunt and she is going to nurse him while he sponsors her and the others so that they can keep their green cards reinstated though it looks like Rosa and Aunt Sylvia intend to walk the naturalization path. Basically he was just … I guess you call it tying up loose ends and one of those had been me. I didn’t think any of it was his business, so I kept it light and just said I preferred being self-supporting. He chuckled when I realized what that must have sounded like since it could have been taken as a knock against Rosa, but my thoughts had nothing to do with her. He understood and said that it appeared everything was working out well. I told him congratulations that his plans were working out as well. I left it at that and if I’m honest I hope that is the end of it. Living on what might have been’s is not my thing, neither is having them rubbed in my face even if it is unintentional, and I’ve got enough problems figuring out what might be with Lev, and how long it is going to last.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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Aug 8: Kenai Fjords National Park – Boat Tour​


From the mighty (humpback whales and orcas) to the tiny (puffins) we saw them all on the boat tour we took today. Sea otters, Dall’s porpoises (not to be confused with Dall sheep haha), Steller sea lions, harbor seals and loads of whales, bald eagles, black oystercatchers, murres, and puffins—Benny proved he’d really been watching the “dock-mentary” by telling Lev and I about each animal, its habitat, and where it was on the food chain. There was a little too much information a few times but when you are ADD, OCD, etc etc he actually did a pretty good job maintaining some balance.

We were there for the whales mostly. The directors wanted more footage and hoped to get some more dramatic shots. Like they could order up something just because they wanted it. Geez. Unrealistic they were but we did get a few things. We discovered that Kenai Fjords whale watching is an adventure in both patience and adrenaline. We spotted both humpback and orca whales in pods. A couple of the whales we saw breached but to me the most amazing things we saw was a bubble-net feeding!

Here's how it works. Humpback whales often travel in groups. During the summers spent along the coast of Alaska, they're all about bulking up before they take off on their long migration journey. Humpbacks only eat during half of the year—the summer half that they spend in Alaska – the rest of year they are focused on breeding. Eating as much as they can, and doing so around the clock, a humpback can consume up to 3,000 lbs of fish a day. Yowzer.

Sometimes, they swim in a shrinking circle, blowing bubbles as they go, and together, they are able to force their fishy food upward. It's like a trap – the fish aren't able to get out of the bubbles. The way the whales exhale the bubbles also creates a loud and intense sound that also helps with the process – the fish can't handle the noise. Then the whales all swim up with their mouths open and gulp up all the fish they can handle. It’s like team sports, how many fish can our team catch. Strange to watch to be honest when I used to think of whales as mostly solitary or only running around with a couple of others. Nope. I wouldn’t say they school like little fish do, but they certainly have a family or team dynamic more than I knew about.

The orcas we saw were pretty awesome as well. There were eight in the pod. Wow. Dad used to talk about when they had orcas in shows at Sea World. Big freaking fish, well not fish as they are mammals. And toothsome critters at that. I wonder what it would be like to kayak with them. Er … maybe I should remember the toothsome and huge parts of that equation. That one that gave me the eye as it passed beneath the kayak that one time gave me the cold chills.

In addition to orcas and humpbacks we saw fin whales, gray whales, minke and sei whales. Wow. I keep saying that but yeah, wow. Or maybe whoa. Either/or. Incredible is an even better word. Lev was clicking away and he said I could have copies of any of them I wanted. I told him I would wait until he picked the ones he was sending in for his work as I didn’t want there to be any copyright problems.

“Gus …”

“Just let me do this. I know you would sacrifice and whatever, but I don’t want to be what creates trouble.”

He sighed but let it go. Like I told him, I just don’t want to be what causes problems. I’m still figuring this stuff out. He is always thoughtful about Benny, I’m trying to be thoughtful in return. It is the only way I know to say thank you with any adequacy. I kind of mumbled that later in the day and I swear if he’d had dentures they would have fallen out. I need to remember to tell him things rather than just feel them on my end.

Whales can be curious and playful. They can gather around boats or swim beside them. Playful and curious or not, maintaining a safe distance is just commonsense. I got a little close when we were in the kayak. Lucky for Benny and me that the whale didn’t flip us … or in whale terms flip us off. That snot shot was enough for me though I gotta say it was certainly adrenaline worthy.

We weren’t only on a boat today. In the middle of our tour we stopped at a pretty little place called Fox Island, in the heart of Resurrection Bay. Yeah, I understand and appreciate pretty, even if I’m not really inclined to be that descriptor. It was nice there. We got to stroll the beach and explore on land after we spent some time at the island’s day lodge where we had a meal of salmon cakes, salad, and rolls, which were included in the tour. I had Lev and Benny skip the rolls but they didn’t have to skip the salmon cakes as it turns out they are gluten free, made with almond flour instead of regular flour. I couldn’t tell the difference and Benny practically inhaled his. Lev was cautious and then ate with as much gusto as Benny.

“They taste like your cooking!” he said with a huge grin.

“I hope that means you like them. I’m going to ask for the recipe.”

I didn’t have to ask. We got the recipe on a post card as a free “souvenir.” The only ingredient that surprised me was the avocado. I would have thought that would have been crazy expensive in Alaska but it turns out they use frozen avocado they buy in bulk.

Lev was taking pictures while we ate so a few times I fed him with his fork. Benny thought that was a riot and I had to remind him we don’t laugh with our mouth full of food. After the meal was over and I made sure our table was cleared, we stretched our legs on a walk along the flat-rock beach of Halibut Cove. I felt Lev drop something in my pocket but was too busy making sure Benny didn’t take a dip while he was trying to skip stones. When we got back I discovered a heart-shaped stone is what Lev had picked up. I’m glad I didn’t find it until we were back on the pier because my face would have given me away.

“Lev …”

“It’s just a rock,” he mumbled.

“No, it’s not,” I told him quietly. I brushed it off and then looked at Lev before putting it in the box I keep the few keepsakes that I’ve collected.

I glanced at him again from the corner of my eye and he smiled. Neither one of us has said anything else about it. Maybe we don’t need to at this point.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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Aug 9-11: Kenai Fjords National Park – Kayaking​


We’ve had three days of kayaking. And honestly I’ve been so wonderfully tired at the end of the day that I haven’t been able to muster the energy for writing in this log. I’ve been in heaven and Benny was my little paddle buddy. The boy was born part fish and we’ve both been missing being in the water though I admit me more than him. Keep him moving and he’s happy. I just love the water and I came back from the first day of kayaking to find a special gift from Lev.

“What’s this?” I asked, thinking he’d left a piece of his equipment on the galley counter.

“Open it and find out.”

“Lev?”

“Ha! Stop telling me I’m spoiling you. This is for both of us. I was hacked that the app you used for night sounds stopped working too.”

I quickly opened the box and … it is a sound machine that has various options that all have to do with water. I picked the one that said ocean and I swear it sounded just like the beach off Indialantic on the east coast of Florida.

“Wow. And there’s whales, waterfalls, creek, rain, stormy night … how many different sounds does this thing make?!” I asked trying to find it on the instruction booklet.

“Twenty-four. Try out the one that says rowing.”

It sounded like a sea kayak being paddled in calm water.

“Where on earth … ? Lev …”

He leaned over and kissed my cheek. “Just say thank you. And this is me saying thank you to you. Life is so much better since I met you … you and Benny.”

A million and one things were flying through my head but none of them would exit my mouth, so I told him, “Thank you.” Then I licked my lips and added, “Right back at you.” But I couldn’t say anything more. Apparently I didn’t need to. Lev’s grin reminded me of Benny’s … it lit up the entire area.

# # # # #

I might as well use the description for each tour. I’m pretty sure I can’t do a better explanation and in all honesty I am just too tired to try and get creative and do the days justice.

August 9th - Full-Day Resurrection Bay Kayaking: We spent an entire day—approximately seven hours—paddling and hiking our way through the magic of the Alaskan wilderness. We kayaked out to Caines Head, stopping at a waterfall along the way. We also took the opportunity to lounge on a black-sand beach and enjoy a delicious BBQ lunch (with gluten free options for the sides) before paddling our way back.

August 10th - Aialik / Northwestern Explorer: We experienced the magic of a boutique fjord paddling trip—the only one of its kind in Alaska. This full-day (10-hour) excursion took us to an area with three very active tidewater glaciers that’s more remote and rugged than what we’d currently experienced, even the Eastern Arm of Glacier Bay. We set off on a comfortable 12-person capacity catamaran led by an experienced captain who was born and raised in Seward. This was a captain’s choice trip; based on conditions, the boat goes where the best paddling and most abundant wildlife is on any particular day according to the captain. Once the captain had made his choice, we paddled around for three hours hemmed in by an exciting and gorgeous collection of glaciers and granite cliffs.

August 11th - All-Day Bear Glacier Kayaking: On this trip, I found just getting to and from Bear Glacier. Going out was a thrilling 45- to 60-minute jetboat ride that zooms quickly up the river to Bear Glacier’s lagoon while we kept an eye out for wildlife. Then we spent five hours kayaking around icebergs, paddling up to the face of Bear Glacier, and exploring the entire lagoon in sea kayaks which let us get around faster than in canoes. It also gave us the opportunity to get up close and personal with more icebergs. Lunch was included and it was pretty nifty to eat on an iceberg even if my butt did get frozen.

# # # # #

“Tired?” Lev asks me while we both listened to Benny’s gentle snores. Tomorrow is our last day in Kenai Fjords and we are going back and doing the strenuous hike to the Harding Ice Field again. Chan and Diego are going with us as well. The Director wants more footage of that area since the first bits they sent him were really good.

“Pleasantly so,” I finally answered after making sure that I was being honest.

“Think Little Bear is going to be up for this tomorrow? Are you?”

“It’s seven o’clock. Benny’s asleep and I’m lazing around. We’ll be fine. I know it has been a while, but we did a lot of back-to-back hiking in the continental stretch of the national parks, and it was weird when we couldn’t do it when we were in Florida. Benny is excited and if it gets to be too much, we’ll pull off the trail and wait for you, Chan, and Diego to go out and come back.”

“Won’t be as much fun if we have to do it that way.”

“I’m fairly certain it won’t be a problem since we did it the first time around but if there is, we’re prepped with a plan.”

“Er …”

“Er what?”

“Thanks for not getting offended by what the Director said. I hadn’t meant for you to overhear it.”

“What’s to be offended about? He wants you to focus more on nature and less on people … including me and Benny.”

“He made it sound … uh …”

“Relax. He doesn’t get paid the big bucks for being subtle. And since I’d rather know than not, you don’t need to protect me from that sort of thing.”

“Do I protect you from anything?”

It was a weird question. “We protect Benny together. And … er …”

“Er?”

“Look, I don’t know how to say things like …” I shrugged. “I don’t want to jinx things Lev. And I don’t want to fall into the trap that either one of us thinks we’re too needy. But, if you need me to say it out loud here goes. I like that you let me be me. That you don’t seem to have a problem with me being me. I know I’m … different. I don’t need you to protect me from being different because that’s just who I am, and I’ve accepted it and come to terms with it. But, I don’t always catch cues so if there is something you need from me, need me to say, just go ahead and tell me. That’s definitely something you don’t need to protect me from.”

He relaxed back into the camp chair he was sitting in. “I just need to know that you are … okay with the way things are going. I’m trying not to push but … a little something or other that let’s me know you aren’t against things moving along.”

Taking my life in my hands I told him, “Lev, I’ve never trusted anyone like I’m trusting you. You are here, in the van with us. What amounts to our home. I’m sharing Benny with you. And I hope I don’t have to explain how big a deal that is. I know I’m not like most girls but …” I took a deep breath and said, “If I could be like most girls, I’d be willing to try for your sake. Because you are worth trying for. I’m not good at putting this stuff into words but … you are in my chain of command. I can see you as Captain and I’m find with being Chief. I’ve never known anyone else except for Lawrence, Dad, and Grandfather that I could say that about. And that includes whatever you think I felt for Rick. There’s no competition between what you are to me and what Rick …” I must have made an awful face because Lev gave a slow grin.

“What?” I asked.

“I keep forgetting.”

“Keep forgetting what?”

“You aren’t into games. I don’t have to guess because you’re all upfront.”

“Uh …”

“I’ll get used to it Gus,” he said quietly. “I’ve just never had that. Someone when they said they trusted me they meant it fully, no games, no hyperbole, nothing. I’ve been ‘watched’ and ‘measured’ my entire life and usually left feeling like I’ve never quite measured up. You’ve never made me feel that way and I don’t want to lose it because I push too hard.”

“Well, I’m not ready … uh …”

“I don’t think either of us is ready for ‘uh’ quite yet. I won’t lie and say I don’t think about it but I’m fine with nothing happening if that’s what you think I mean.”

“I’ve wondered on occasion.”

“Well don’t wonder. So long as we’re together and I don’t have to wonder about that, I’m fine for now.”

For now, he said. I didn’t know how to tell him that I know, life has proven to me too many times, that things come to an end. And one day this assignment is going to come to an end. And does that mean that not only does the assignment come to an end but Lev being in our lives comes to an end? If I pick at that too much the hamster is going to go nuclear and that I can’t handle right now. So I’m packing it up and not thinking about it. It’ll happen. I’m just not sure I’m going to be any more ready for it to happen when it does as if I think about it right now.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
_______________

Aug 12: Kenai Fjorda National Park – Harding Ice Field​


I don’t know if I gave the stats last time we hiked the Harding Ice Field trail. It is marked as strenuous and with reason. The trail is just over 8 miles round trip with nearly 4000 feet of elevation gain. It is a full day hike so don’t plan on doing too much of anything else on that day, including driving. The hike takes at least six to eight hours to complete. And that doesn’t count if you do a lot of stopping like we did to get the additional film that the Director wanted. It was closer to ten hours before we headed back to Seward for the night.

Benny was tired and Lev was busy working so I asked Benny to make sure he and the Crew were all squared away since we’d be on a different kind of adventure tomorrow.

“Lev said … I mean you said …” He was almost in a panic and that wasn’t constructive.

“Benny, we can’t take everything from the van with us, but Lev made it so that so long as you promise to keep them all trained up, and in formation, you can bring the Crew … and a few other items … with us where we’re going. On the other hand … we can’t take the Crew and the few other items and your binder of Junior Ranger stuff.”

He’d relaxed halfway through my response. “I know that Aunt Gus. I don’t like leaving my binder, but I understand we can’t take everything. But I prooomise to keep the Crew … and a couple of other things … in the float bag. I promise for real.”

“Okay, but you must be responsible for the float bag. Lev has to be responsible for his camera equipment which is going to leave me being responsible for the other stuff. I can’t pick up after you like normal. We’re on a different kind of adventure.”

“I get it Aunt Gus. I’ll follow the rules,” using his I’m-being-totally-serious-and-committed tone.

“Good. Now do me a favor before you get too tired. Wash up and get the Crew and the other stuff you are taking in the float bag organized and ready to go. The day starts early, and we need to stay organized. ‘K?”

“May I keep Little Bear and Gus out?”

“Can you remember to put them in Crew Quarters as soon as you wake up? Because if we leave and you’ve forgotten them, we can’t just turn around and come back for them.”

He nodded but not much later I saw him debating and he carefully put the last two stuffies in the bag, but didn’t close it, and laid the entire thing beside him in his bed.

I was feeling a little discombobulated about leaving the van as well, but that’s what the assignment is. Lev has said that it will be left in a secured building, so I just have to have confidence in what he is telling me. I trusted him on the ferry. I’ve trusted him all along. I will have to trust him about this too.

Now I need to get everything on the list packed up. We fly out to Katmai National Park in the morning.

Resources:
Waterfront Park Campground Reviews updated 2021 (campendium.com)
Harding Icefield Trail - Kenai Fjords National Park (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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Aug 13: Katmai National Park – Up, Up, and Away​


Driving to Katmai is not an option, so this was the first air taxi experience of this trip. It was also a first for me and Benny.

After Kenai Fjords, we hooked the jeep that Diego and Chan have been driving to the back of the van and drove the 2.5 hours from Seward back to Anchorage. Reminded me of the Florida Assignment and Diego and Chan were surprised how fast we hooked up and how well I drove. I have to say however that it was not fun pouring the other four into their seat belts and driving from 4 am to 6:30 am to get to our destination, but I did it. They are tired and it is catching up to them. Benny I expected, but the three men gave me pause for concern.

Once we arrived at the Anchorage airport we checked in and made sure all the gear fit and was under the weight limit. From there we climbed into the twin-prop aircraft and flew an hour and twenty minutes to the village known as King Salmon. Flight out started promptly at 7:30 am and we arrived in King Salmon by 9 am.

Then we had to catch the next plane. Yep, you heard that correctly. We flew a boat plane from King Salmon to Brooks Camp, Katmai NP (20 minutes). Unload, check in, reload, so we could depart no later than 9:45 am with an arrival time of no later than 10:15 am. From the look of things, I had the least amount of gear. Two sets of clothes, shoes, and toiletries for the three of us plus our camping gear and camp food. Lev had his equipment and Benny carried his float bag in a death grip.

Chan and Diego carried their own gear but asked if I could take their food. There was room in my pack for that and in hindsight I wish I had just made up single pot meals that we could all share instead of using the expensive camp food. Then again, this way I don’t have to wonder if my choices would suit everyone and fewer dishes. All we needed is a camp stove that uses solid fuel tabs, a small pot for water, sporks, and something approximating a tea cozy to put the package of camp food in until it heats and hydrates. Everyone also has their own filtered water canteen.

When we landed, we were reminded that all visitors to Brooks Camp are required to begin their stay by attending a brief bear safety talk outlining park regulations. Because of our limited time we headed straight to check in so we could get to the safety talk that was scheduled for 11 am.

From there we were shown to our campsite, and we distributed our gear in the appropriate locations and then I fixed our lunch while the guys started prepping their gear.

In the middle of lunch Lev grins and says, “Oh yeah, almost forgot.” From behind his back he pulls out … a Junior Ranger booklet for the park.

“For real?!” Benny squealed.

“Indoor voice,” I tell him for what feels like the millionth time.

“But Aunt Gus!”

“Benjamin, please don’t freak the bears out.”

“Oh, yeah. Sorry,” he says in a more appropriate volume. I’ve had a lot of practice keeping a straight face but I’m pretty sure that Dad, Grandma, and Grandfather are all looking down laughing their heads off. I’ve got one to look after that is just like me. If I heard someone sigh and remind me “indoor voice” once I must have heard it a gazillion times when I was a kid. The only time my volume knob wasn’t stuck on loud is when I was kayaking or doing yard work and if I was driving the Zero-Turn I could be singing at the top of my lungs as well, you could even hear me through the mask I wore to keep from breathing the sandy dust that would get kicked up.

We’ve walked all over the place taking pictures during what remained of our first day here in Katmai. First off, bears rule. Seriously, they are the top of the food chain around here in more ways than one. During the “Bear School” we had to attend we were told that the bears have free rein and that it is the people that are fenced in. No kidding. The area that people can go without supervision is pretty small so let me describe it.

We’re camping in Brooks Camp. From the campground to the Visitor Center is 0.3 miles. From the camp to the Lodge is 0.4 miles. From the camp to Brooks River is 0.4 miles. And from the camp to the falls is 1.4 miles.

There are very specific rules and regs for the camp. First, there is an area called the Cooking Shelters. There are three covered cooking shelters. Each has a picnic table for cooking and eating out of the weather. There is to be absolutely no eating, drinking or cooking any place away from the cooking shelters. The drinking surprised me and I’m still not sure about not being allowed to carry around our canteens. I can’t even carry my hydration pods like I normally do. Not even a mint or piece of gum. Anything that might attract a bear has to be carefully stored in its designated area.

The campground is surrounded by an electric fence to deter bears from entering. The fence is bear-resistant, but not bear-proof. Bears tend to avoid contact with the fence, but campers must take extra precautions to avoid attracting a bear’s attention in any way. If it happens, they’ll blame the people, not the bear.

A fire ring is located at each cooking shelter. Campers are not allowed to cook food over the fire, so it is mostly for show for during the colder months.

Campers are required to store all food and odorous items in the designated caches. There is a trash receptacle in the food cache for garbage. A gear cache is available to store any items not needed at your tent. Campers are asked to store their gear inside the gear cache when not in use to avoid piquing a bear’s curiosity. That means putting the tent up and taking it down every day/night as well as putting the sleeping bags in their stuff bags and folding up the sleeping pads. And all that also means making sure we include time for it in our planned schedule.

We store our camp stove fuel here in a special cache as well and we’ve been asked to store liquid fuels (white gas) separately from gaseous fuels (propane/butane). I hadn’t even thought of bringing the butane burner I had because I didn’t think I could bring the pressurized canisters on the planes. I understood they had similar issues with white gas canisters. So I opted to bring the solid fuel tabs and Esbit cooker. Each tablet lasts about twelve minutes, just long enough to get twenty ounces of water boiling. It means cooking in rotations, but no one had problems with that at lunch or dinner tonight.

As far as getting water, potable water is available from a spigot on the wall of the food storage cache from the beginning of June until the middle of September when the park closes.

Two vault toilets serve the campground so there is generally a line at all times, or that’s been my experience today.

There are three things that Katmai National Park is known for. First it is probably the bear capital of North America. Second, Katmai is also home to many active volcanoes including Novarupta, home to the largest volcanic eruption in the 20th century worldwide in 1912. Volcanoes build new land all the time, blow themselves up and meanwhile glaciers and ice erode that land away. Third, Katmai is the homeland of the Yup’ik and Alutiiq people.

Benny is enthralled and the bears seem to think he smells interesting. Multiple times today I caught them staring at Benny. Did not make me comfortable and I was glad for that electrified fence more than once.

It appears that I thought of everything we’d need including good rain gear. When they said be ready for rain and wind all summer long at Katmai they weren’t exaggerating. Benny just asked me if I can come into the tent with him so the windstorm must be causing him some anxiety. I’ll climb in and leave Lev and the other two men to discuss tomorrow’s activity. For now, I don’t think it is a bad thing to get some extra rest.

Resources:
https://www.nps.gov/katm/learn/upload/Katmai-Junior-Ranger.pdf
Virtual Visits - Katmai National Park & Preserve (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)
 
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