Old Gray Mare
TB Fanatic
We have had some mean roos but we have never had a mean Buff Orp roo. YMMV.
Anyone getting a new flock of chickens this Spring?
- Thread starter imaginative
- Start date
Cyclonemom
Veteran Member
I must have gotten an odd batch of Buff Orps. I found them to be skittish and spazy. The BO roo avoided the soup pot the longest, but he still had to go after turning on one of the kids one day after being "good" up to that point. Kids and roos just don't mix.
If you are not interested in roos, and looking for straight brown egg production, then sex links are the way to go. Our local feed store orders them from a local hatchery, and it's only $2/hen, no shipping fees, no frantic post office employees calling, and I can order as many as I want! See if there is a feed store or related type of store near you that sells chicks. WELL worth it to just go pick them up. I avg 15 eggs per day from a flock of 16 from the time they start laying (roughly 4.5 to 5 months old) until they are a year and a half old. At that point they decrease to about a 50% lay rate over the next 6 months.
If you are not interested in roos, and looking for straight brown egg production, then sex links are the way to go. Our local feed store orders them from a local hatchery, and it's only $2/hen, no shipping fees, no frantic post office employees calling, and I can order as many as I want! See if there is a feed store or related type of store near you that sells chicks. WELL worth it to just go pick them up. I avg 15 eggs per day from a flock of 16 from the time they start laying (roughly 4.5 to 5 months old) until they are a year and a half old. At that point they decrease to about a 50% lay rate over the next 6 months.
I have. At least two, in fact. And, they were the one breed that consistently were egg eaters. I was sad about it, because they are truly beautiful birds, but I won't own another Buff Orp. :-(
Summerthyme
FollowTruth
Phantom Lurker
This Saturday we're setting up our chicken yard and installing a neighbor's flock of chickens. It's our first time doing chickens but the neighbors are moving into town and we wound up being gifted with their flock. I don't even know what breed(s) they are! When I have a better handle on what I'm doing the plan is to get some Slow Whites but right now I'm not ready to take on new chicks (although they're cute little goobers!)
Here's a question for Summerthyme: When you process chickens for the freezer, how do you dispose of the feather, guts and gore?
FollowTruth
Here's a question for Summerthyme: When you process chickens for the freezer, how do you dispose of the feather, guts and gore?
FollowTruth
OldCraftsman
Membership Revoked
Another vote here for Golden Comets. Great egg production.
Walrus Whisperer
Hope in chains...
Just saw this a week ago, might help if ya got the $$$: https://www.predatorpeestore.com/hawk-stopper.html. its some kind of visual effect netting. Hawks generally wont fly into an area they think they cant fly out of. Ive always kept a few ropes and that of thing over my chicken run, gives a visual aid to the aerial predators that they might not be able to get out of there WITH their dinner. Also, Here is a really good Chicken forum: https://www.backyardchickens.com/forums/
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Compost! All of that is extremely rich in nitrogen, and is excellent and valuable fertilizer for gardens. Layered with wood chips, straw dry leaves, or simply buried a foot or two deep in an active compost pile, and it doesnt draw flies or scavengers.
We live in the boonies, of course, and learned years ago tgat you can compost entire large carcasses (cows and horses) by simply piling a layer of 12" of manure over the top. Even the vultures and coyotes don't touch them, and within a shockingly few weeks, all that is left are the largest bones... skull, shoulder blades, pelvis.
If the vultures can't smell it, no human can!
Summerthyme
20Gauge
TB Fanatic
We have a lot of possums and raccoons at the house. I keep after them, but the more I kill the more that come around. I am going to have to make a prison for the Chickens when I get them
Going to pick them up now... She has about 15 varieties from 2 day to 4 weeks to pick from. Not sure until I go what or how many I will come home with. Probably between 6-10 and several different breeds so I can tell them apart from a distance.
OldCraftsman
Membership Revoked
Good luck. It takes a virtual fortress to stop coons. Ask me how I know. I finally prevailed, but at great expense.
Countrymouse
Country exile in the city
Can anyone help me???
There was a thread here on TB within the past week (and I thought this one 'was' it, but it isn't) where there were a COUPLE of posts I meant to save, but somehow the page got closed on my computer & I can't find it again. One poster described IN DETAIL the best way to 'dispatch" a chicken for the pot, how to make them lay longer, etc. Another poster on that SAME thread gave a DETAILED description of the best way to raise baby chicks.
PLEASE_-you will have my undying gratitude if you can point me back to that thread! -- ???
There was a thread here on TB within the past week (and I thought this one 'was' it, but it isn't) where there were a COUPLE of posts I meant to save, but somehow the page got closed on my computer & I can't find it again. One poster described IN DETAIL the best way to 'dispatch" a chicken for the pot, how to make them lay longer, etc. Another poster on that SAME thread gave a DETAILED description of the best way to raise baby chicks.
PLEASE_-you will have my undying gratitude if you can point me back to that thread! -- ???
Hfcomms
EN66iq
I'm looking at getting my first chickens. A number of my neighbors have them and I'm grateful that they will have some 'preparedness' whether they know whats coming or isn't. I'm well set for food but it would still be nice for something fresh and since I don't have a green thumb this makes some sense for me. Being single I'm thinking about 4 hens and a roo. Need cold weather hearty types so thinking of Black Australorps and Barred Rocks. I know that I don't need the roo for the hens to lay eggs but I want to let them out and free range during the day and they do provide a bit of protection for them and I've read that the hens seem happier with a roo as it's more of a normal scenario for them. Besides...I like the crowing and I'm an early morning person anyway.
I'm going to go with started pullets as I don't have either the time or the space to deal with a brooder and it's hard to order just a couple of chicks as the hatcheries won't do that. And I'll probably be buying a pre-fab coop/run for them. I could build one myself but I want one that will look nice and blend in. From what I've read most of the pre-fab coops are junk and advertise an unrealistic amount of birds that they can hold. I've been looking at a couple of places...
https://www.chickencoopcompany.com/
http://snaplockchickencoops.com/index.html
https://www.chickencondos.com/
Not cheap and especially if I get started pullets but there are some things I don't want to do on the cheap and taking care of animals is one of them. I've also spent a lot of time over here to learn about them.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/
As far as dispatching chickens I did see one thing that was interesting. You take a cloth or fabric bag like a sandbag with a hole big enough for the neck of the chicken. Get the unfortunate bird and put the bag over it and then work it's neck thru the hole in the bag. The bird is thereby restrained with it's wings and body compressed and from there it's easy to take the hatchet and do the job. I don't have a freezer so not looking for meat birds but if the roo gets mean or the hens start getting old I wouldn't be adverse to killing one and eating it.
I know the whole thing about keeping chickens isn't as difficult as what it can be made out to be but I do like learning all that I can and do what is right for the birds before jumping into it with my eyes closed.
I'm going to go with started pullets as I don't have either the time or the space to deal with a brooder and it's hard to order just a couple of chicks as the hatcheries won't do that. And I'll probably be buying a pre-fab coop/run for them. I could build one myself but I want one that will look nice and blend in. From what I've read most of the pre-fab coops are junk and advertise an unrealistic amount of birds that they can hold. I've been looking at a couple of places...
https://www.chickencoopcompany.com/
http://snaplockchickencoops.com/index.html
https://www.chickencondos.com/
Not cheap and especially if I get started pullets but there are some things I don't want to do on the cheap and taking care of animals is one of them. I've also spent a lot of time over here to learn about them.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/
As far as dispatching chickens I did see one thing that was interesting. You take a cloth or fabric bag like a sandbag with a hole big enough for the neck of the chicken. Get the unfortunate bird and put the bag over it and then work it's neck thru the hole in the bag. The bird is thereby restrained with it's wings and body compressed and from there it's easy to take the hatchet and do the job. I don't have a freezer so not looking for meat birds but if the roo gets mean or the hens start getting old I wouldn't be adverse to killing one and eating it.
I know the whole thing about keeping chickens isn't as difficult as what it can be made out to be but I do like learning all that I can and do what is right for the birds before jumping into it with my eyes closed.
This didn't work for me,lost two more before i put wire on top.
As for dispatch, I crush the head with a 4 pound short handled sledge hammer. Lights out, at least for the brain (there may be consciousness with the nerves in the rest of the body, but I can't do anything about that). I then cut off the head, and continue to hold the bird on the stump until it stops flapping. A prayer and word of thanks will help with the situation. If the bird is a big roo, or a turkey be prepared to get a bit beat up yourself; they are very strong.
My chicken pen is 10' x 16' x 9' high. It has 24" aluminum burried 12" all of the way around so critters cant dig under. The remaining 12" that is above ground keeps the coons from reaching through and grabbing chickens. The sides are 6' chain link covered with chicken wire. The chain link just goes up the first six feet then the chicken wire up to the top. The roof is sheet metal and all spaces between the rafters are filled with 2x4's so critters cant get between the top of the wire and the rafters.
I put out ten sex linked Red Star hens, five black rocks and four straight run Rhode Island Reds a few weeks ago. They are doing great and I will have a ton of eggs this year. My old hens had just about stopped laying and started eating the few eggs that they did lay so they had to go, all of them. This way they dont teach the new birds bad habits.
I put out ten sex linked Red Star hens, five black rocks and four straight run Rhode Island Reds a few weeks ago. They are doing great and I will have a ton of eggs this year. My old hens had just about stopped laying and started eating the few eggs that they did lay so they had to go, all of them. This way they dont teach the new birds bad habits.
Hfcomms
EN66iq
Was also thinking perhaps some black stars? For me the most primary consideration is being cold hardy. It can get nasty up here. I did see a video the other day of a guy located up in Alaska with an unheated hen house. The coop was up against his cabin so he was getting some residual heat from that but those birds survive when it's below zero. Other than that the only other consideration is they need to be a good egg layer. If they are personable that is a plus but I wouldn't be considering them as pets or want to hold them or anything. I had both a Macaw and an African gray parrot back in the day that had a temper so I can handle a mean bird.
goosebeans
Veteran Member
Woo hoo! Our pullets started laying last week. It's the first time I've ordered chicks in fall and raised them over the winter months. I started them in a Rubbermaid tub with a lamp, in the spare bedroom for the first three weeks, then moved them out to a lean-to shed. They were in one of those large, oval rubber water troughs with pine shavings. Hung a light over them but covered most of the bin with a piece of plywood to help keep the heat in They fared very well with no problems. We moved them out into a large chicken coop in late February/ March, still with a light they could go under if they wanted to. Now the weather has warmed they're going out into their pen and doing well.
Bubble Head
Has No Life - Lives on TB
HF I prefer the Barred Rock and we have similar environmental problems. They seem to lay steady and I never worry about the below zero winters. I do not heat or light my coop. I do bring them some warm water everyday in the dead of winter. They are hardy. If you need some extra pen area or race you can build it out of schedule 40 3/4" PVC. Just Glue them together in 6' X 10' panels and cover with chicken wire. They are light and can be moved easily for fresh grass. You can tie them together with zip ties and put a T Post in occasionally to hold up if necessary. I have to use pens since my predators are way out of control. Never had to in the past but the greenies have made trapping illegal in Colorado and the bears are out of control.
Hfcomms
EN66iq
They lay in the winter without supplemental lighting? Everything I've read is that hens need 12 to 14 hours or so of light to continue laying. Do you also use a heated warterer in winter or just bring out warm water a couple of times a day? My setup will be next to an existing storage shed so that protects from wind in the run from one direction and the coop will protect one of the ends of the run. Thinking about metal roofing I can lay on top of the run in winter to keep some snow out and wind and then maybe temporary panels for the other long side of the run so the run is protected on 3 sides. Open end of the run to the east to let some natural light in. Probably over thinking this but I blame the military training for contingency planning. Lol!
20Gauge
TB Fanatic
I figure I will need a lot of concrete and strong wire to win.
As of last night, 16 possums and 5 raccoons are now taking dirt naps. We still have at least 1 possum, raccoon and now a fox. I am not too worried about the fox, but the others have to go.
Bubble Head
Has No Life - Lives on TB
Wise Owl
Deceased
Our chicken coops on our dairy farm when growing up all had the south side almost completely in windows. The fenced yard was on the north side of the coop. We had eggs year round in Central MI. Hens were cooped up in the winter but had lots of food and fresh water even if it was cold. If it got too cold dad would put a heat lamp in the coop. One of those red ones. He turned it on at night. They had nesting boxes on one side and roosts made of saplings nailed to 2x4's on the east end. No roosters tho. Mom got young chickens every couple years and they were incorporated into the flock.. Hated those plymouth rocks tho. Nasty mean birds. But they laid all year or they went into the soup pot. Chicken and dumplings ala Mom's recipe. Yum.
YEP so true chicken and dumplings is very good to say the least.
I love chicken it is very good, I also love eggs and I also love pecan white duck eggs.
Truthfully... not well! They really DO need 14 hours of light, although the light levels don't have to be all that bright. Chicken feed used to be a metaphor for "cheap"... not any more! I can't afford to feed 2 dozen birds to get 3-4 eggs a day, when supplying a little supplemental light will give me 20 eggs a day. We have electricity in our pens, but if you don't, just get some solar powered WARM WHITE (NOT COOL/Blue!) LED lights, and set them up. Most have a light sensor so they turn on at dusk and off at dawn, and I've never had the slightest problem with the light staying on the entire night... my hens don't "burn out", die sooner, or any of the other old wives tales the "old fashioned" purists claim.
The LED lights are not bright, (in fact, I often have to walk out to the coop to see if they're on, when a 12 watt compact florescent in a ceiling fixture is easily seen from the house) but they work. They MUST be warm colored (yellow/orange) light, however... chickens absorb light through their skull into their pineal glands and blue light isn't absorbed!
A heated waterer makes things MUCH easier, but it's certainly possible to carry warm water out 2-3 times a day. As long as it keeps from freezing long enough for all the birds to get their thirst satiated, they'll be fine. Frozen eggs are a bigger problem, but if you gather eggs around the mid-day watering time (if that's possible... they normally *mostly* lay in the early to mid morning hours, although there are always a few exceptions), you shouldn't end up with too many cracked or split eggs.
The Black Stars, like all the Sex linked breeds, tend to be small birds. This is much more efficient for feed conversion ratios, but it's not ideal for really cold climates. However, we see 10 below zero in the winter on occasion (not weeks on end) and have never supplied a heat lamp... or needed one. We have had some frostbitten combs in the large, single combed breeds, and it affects male fertility until it heals, and probably also laying rates on the hens. This would be one good reason to consider looking for a rose combed breed, or at least not one of the Meditteranean breeds (they use their combs as "air conditioning"... the larger the comb surface area, the better they tolerate heat, as they are very vascular and release body heat into the air)
I loved my Buff Orpingtons, but found that for whatever reason, they had a stronger tendency to eat eggs than any other breed- and I've had *many* different breeds over 35 years. I tried Buffs three times, and finally gave up.
My current mix is Cuckoo Marans (heavy birds, which can double as a decent meat bird, and they lay extremely high quality eggs in heavy, dark cinnamon colored shells), Americaunas ("easter egg layers"), Slow White Broilers (a specialty breed from Welp Hatchery, and if I could only keep one breed, they would be it... they're second only to the CornishX birds for feed conversion to meat (reach 5# dressed weight 2-3 weeks later than the CornishX... any other heavy breed of chicken will take 6 months to get to that point). They lay earlier than any other breed I've tried, including Golden Comets and Leghorns. And they lay right through the winter, but tolerate heat well. Biggest drawback is probably that they're all white birds... and I'm not all that fond of white birds! But these are very pretty birds... sturdy, deep bodied, very attractive.
I also have some Whiting's True Blues I got from McMurray Hatchery last year. They are still laying amazingly well, and laid well all winter long- which surprised me, because they are TINY. I swear, the hens don't weigh any more than maybe 3 1/2 pounds! The eggs are a pale "Robin's Egg blue" color. Drawbacks are shell quality- it sucks. Too many broken eggs, especially for first year layers which have access to the same amount of oyster shell as all the other birds, whose shells are sturdy. And they are VERY flighty birds... not a major problem for us, as we don't make pets of ours or handle them much. But they aren't the friendly, curious type. However, the rooster has shown no aggression at all, although he is quite protective of his hens.
I've currently got 18 chicks started of the Blues, because I really do love the multi colored egg basket we get between the Americaunas, Blues, Marans, and Slow Whites (who lay a light brown egg). But if things were to go south, all but the Slow Whites and possibly the Americaunas (because they are very productive, laying large colored eggs through the winter, despite small body size) would be gone.
Summerthyme
It's From the Farmers Almanac
Living Naturally: Eggs, Egg Shells, Folk Tales
www.timebomb2000.com/vb/showthread.php?535229-Living-Naturally-Eggs-Egg-Shells-Folk-Tales&highlight=
BenIan
Veteran Member
I lost another hen this afternoon to the neighborhood cat, so I'm down to 6 in my flock. I ordered 10 chicks last August (2 black Austrolorps, 2 Cukoo Marans, 2 Easter Eggers, 1 Golden Laced Wyandotte, 1 R.I. Red, 1 Speckled Sussex, 1 brown leghorn). Lost the GLW as a chick, raccoon got one of the Easter Eggers and 1 of the Austrolorps 2 months ago, and then the cat got the other Austrolorp today. I'm thinking of ordering 4 more chicks to replace the ones I've lost. Would raising the chicks until they are fully grown and then integrating them be wise? Is it possible to merge two small flocks together without them pecking each other to death?
They need to be at least 14-16 weeks old before you can safely integrate them into an old flock, although if you have plenty of room AND a way to have multiple feeders and waterers, it might be able to be done a little sooner... maybe 12 weeks. Any younger and the pecking order establishment will cost you young birds... hens can be absolutely vicious. And even at 24-16 weeks, you need separate feeders because the older birds will starve the younger ones out otherwise.
But yes, it can be done... I haven't practiced "all in, all out" ever, in 35 years. However, it's important to have several younger birds... introducing just one or two new ones pretty much guarantees their death. 4 should be enough.
It also can really help if you can keep them separate but where they can see/smell/hear each other for a week or so...a temporary fence, or keeping the younger birds in a crate in the coop. They are less "strangers" that way.
One last tip... never keep just one "oddball" bird... say, a single white hen in a flock of Black Australorps. Chickens are racist as hell... when I had a flock of 5 each of 5 different breeds (my first flock), when free ranging, they would all stay in their own separate "mini-flocks", separated by breed (and color). And the two roosters stayed with the hens of their own breeds, as well!
McMurray doesn't do birds or owners any favors by putting those poor, "free, exotic" chicks in orders. If they are too "exotic" they often end up as permanent outcasts. We once got a Silver Spangled Hamburg cockerel as the freebie. Despite the fact that he was the only rooster, all the hens picked on him, and as soon as he could fly, he , er... flew the coop! Literally. He'd roost in the rafters, and I had to put feed out for him separately... pretty sure if he hadn't escaped, they'd have killed him.
A completely mixed flock like you have is fine, but the old saying, "birds of a feather flock together" isn't just referring to wild species!
Summerthyme
But yes, it can be done... I haven't practiced "all in, all out" ever, in 35 years. However, it's important to have several younger birds... introducing just one or two new ones pretty much guarantees their death. 4 should be enough.
It also can really help if you can keep them separate but where they can see/smell/hear each other for a week or so...a temporary fence, or keeping the younger birds in a crate in the coop. They are less "strangers" that way.
One last tip... never keep just one "oddball" bird... say, a single white hen in a flock of Black Australorps. Chickens are racist as hell... when I had a flock of 5 each of 5 different breeds (my first flock), when free ranging, they would all stay in their own separate "mini-flocks", separated by breed (and color). And the two roosters stayed with the hens of their own breeds, as well!
McMurray doesn't do birds or owners any favors by putting those poor, "free, exotic" chicks in orders. If they are too "exotic" they often end up as permanent outcasts. We once got a Silver Spangled Hamburg cockerel as the freebie. Despite the fact that he was the only rooster, all the hens picked on him, and as soon as he could fly, he , er... flew the coop! Literally. He'd roost in the rafters, and I had to put feed out for him separately... pretty sure if he hadn't escaped, they'd have killed him.
A completely mixed flock like you have is fine, but the old saying, "birds of a feather flock together" isn't just referring to wild species!
Summerthyme
Hfcomms
EN66iq
Well,
I got my coop ordered and went with this one;
https://www.chickencoopcompany.com/...ts/orpington-lodge-chicken-coop-6-12-chickens
Two routes to go either build one yourself which many do or buy a pre-fab and most of them are junk. Most of the well built pre-fabs are well over $1000 dollars and I saw the prices on some that are enough to make your head spin. The one I'm getting was $799 which seems like a lot but that does include shipping. Shipping alone on a coop and run that big would be well over $100 and materials alone for that coop are around $400 or more when spec'd their materials. So essentially I'm paying a couple hundred bucks for the labor it took for them to make the coop and I'm o.k. with that. I would be hard pressed to build something that looks so nice and I've got too many other projects going on this summer. I have to rebuild the back shed, redo the foundation on another shed, replace the front door on my cabin so I have to remove a lot of siding and have got to redo the flooring and wall coverings while I'm in my RV this summer so I have too many things going on to tackle building a decent coop and run.
I have been looking at pro's and con's for litter. Some people swear by sand as it drains so well. A lot of people use hay/straw which isn't so good because of poor drainage along with bacteria and mold issues so I'm probably going to go with pine shavings in the coop and run and save the straw for the nesting boxes only. I'm going to get it all set up and ready before getting the pullets. You could get them two days after you order them or three weeks depending on availability so you certainly don't want to get them when your not ready. Also going to get a cockerel and will be interesting to see how wild he is going to be. Going to be interesting for sure. Also going to be interesting to watch the reaction of my Malinois if the rooster spurs her. Heh....early retirement to the stew pot.
I got my coop ordered and went with this one;
https://www.chickencoopcompany.com/...ts/orpington-lodge-chicken-coop-6-12-chickens
Two routes to go either build one yourself which many do or buy a pre-fab and most of them are junk. Most of the well built pre-fabs are well over $1000 dollars and I saw the prices on some that are enough to make your head spin. The one I'm getting was $799 which seems like a lot but that does include shipping. Shipping alone on a coop and run that big would be well over $100 and materials alone for that coop are around $400 or more when spec'd their materials. So essentially I'm paying a couple hundred bucks for the labor it took for them to make the coop and I'm o.k. with that. I would be hard pressed to build something that looks so nice and I've got too many other projects going on this summer. I have to rebuild the back shed, redo the foundation on another shed, replace the front door on my cabin so I have to remove a lot of siding and have got to redo the flooring and wall coverings while I'm in my RV this summer so I have too many things going on to tackle building a decent coop and run.
I have been looking at pro's and con's for litter. Some people swear by sand as it drains so well. A lot of people use hay/straw which isn't so good because of poor drainage along with bacteria and mold issues so I'm probably going to go with pine shavings in the coop and run and save the straw for the nesting boxes only. I'm going to get it all set up and ready before getting the pullets. You could get them two days after you order them or three weeks depending on availability so you certainly don't want to get them when your not ready. Also going to get a cockerel and will be interesting to see how wild he is going to be. Going to be interesting for sure. Also going to be interesting to watch the reaction of my Malinois if the rooster spurs her. Heh....early retirement to the stew pot.
imaginative
keep your eye on the ball
Nice coop. It is recommenced to have, iirc, (at least) 2 sq/ft per bird in the coop and 10 sq/ft in the run. When you get baby chicks they will need to be under a heat lamp until they get feathers (around 4 or 5 wks) and the outside temps are reasonably warm. Right now I have 16 11 day-old peepers in my living room....I will try to post a pic or 2 when I get the chance. I bought my favorites- Golden Comets- they lay 325 eggs per year and start laying @ 16 weeks of age. Amazing little reptiles!
I have always used pine shaving in the coop and dirt and sod (from yard work and such) in the run.
Right now my outside run is chicken-free and stuff is growing like crazy in it- the chickens will wipe that all out in short order
I have always used pine shaving in the coop and dirt and sod (from yard work and such) in the run.
Right now my outside run is chicken-free and stuff is growing like crazy in it- the chickens will wipe that all out in short order
Hfcomms
EN66iq
These are going to be started pullets not chicks. I've looked at a number of types but the only real qualifier I need besides a good egg layer is the cold hardy/small comb type....just going to depend on what is currently available in the 12 to 20 week range. The coop and run sizing recommendations are pretty much for birds that never get out of the coop and/or the run IIRC. Mine will be out daily except in the middle of winter which is one reason why I'll have a rooster to watch over them. And I will use some supplemental lighting in winter to keep them laying. Four hens and one roo is enough for me and will give me too many eggs in the summer and maybe not enough in the winter but time will tell. And if I know my Mal I think she will adopt the hens as well to keep them safe. Problem will be with the Roo not seeing the Mal as a potential threat, if he spurs her I don't think she would take too kindly to it.
imaginative
keep your eye on the ball
Sounds like a plan. A few Winters ago we had an entire month that barely got above 0 and often was -10 or so at night. The chickens did just fine. I think the really hot temps bother them more than those really cold temps.
Hfcomms
EN66iq
I've read all the pros/cons of supplemental heat. I watched a youtube of a guy up in Alaska and the only heat in his coop was because the coop was built up against the side of his cabin and his birds did just fine. Supplemental heat is more to make us feel better than them. I've read that ventilation and avoiding drafts is most important. And also a problem with the heat is if the birds are used to that and then you get a power failure they can freeze to death then. About the only problem I see with a cold coop is having to go out there a few times a day to make sure the eggs don't freeze. And of course a heated waterer so if elect does go off line it's going out a few times a day to put warm water in there for them to drink. Have spent a lot of time over at www.backyardchickens.com in order to educate myself.
imaginative
keep your eye on the ball
Yeah, that is the premiere chicken site on the net. For sure. Ventilation, wind & water protection are, as you said, the most important necessities for your coop. The only 'extra' that I have ever bought for my chickens is an electric water heater to keep their water from freezing. And that is something that I will never be without. This is my 11th year raising chickens and for the 1st 8 or 9 I would break up their ice everytime it froze.....I still shake my head at that!
imaginative
keep your eye on the ball
Martinhouse
Deceased
Well, if my rooster has been doing his job, I will have my new flock around the 20th of this month. If those eggs are duds, I will get rid of this rooster and let my poor, picked-on Buff Orpington roo take over. Then my new flock will be here in June.
My 11 year old Barred Rock hen hatched 7 eggs last year, and she's setting again as of the beginning of this week.
My 11 year old Barred Rock hen hatched 7 eggs last year, and she's setting again as of the beginning of this week.
imaginative
keep your eye on the ball
11 years old? Amazing. Here is the outdoor coop where these little cretins will incarcerated; their run is in my back garden
(whoops- I cant find the pic...I'll take one or 2 when I move them)