…… 1951 GE Fridge Troubleshooting

meezy

I think I can...
I know this is a long shot, but there are some really smart people here with a wide range of experience.

My apologies if this belongs someplace else. I don't ask for help very often. :)

So, I inherited my parents 1951 GE refrigerator. Dad's "man cave" beer fridge. It worked like a charm until a couple months ago. I'd been using it in the back room of my antique shop, appropriately. Then it quit, and I'm wondering if anybody has any idea what's wrong and how to fix. I'm just hoping it's something simple, or hoping someone can just give me a little head start / clue on diagnostics. My hubby is great at fixing things, but not too familiar with vintage fridges.

A while ago, I noticed it was louder when it was running. Then it stopped being cold. I defrosted it and cleaned the inside. Then I unplugged it. I do really miss having somewhere to put cold drinks and my lunch. So, I plugged it in today to see what it'd do. Interior light comes on, of course. It starts running and goes for about a minute then shuts off. A couple minutes later it runs for about a minute and shuts off. When I open it I can hear the liquid (freon?) running through the coils.

Not being particularly mechanically inclined, I'm guessing there's some kind of sensor/relay that keeps shutting it off. Any ideas? Even if I can't fix it I'm not getting rid of it. It makes good mouse-proof storage for food that doesn't need refrigeration. Plus, you know, sentimentality.
 
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Luddite

Veteran Member
The noise you heard worries me it is a compressor issue.
Imho, make sure the thing is free of dust&obstruction around compressor. Dust bunnies can accumulate after 70 years. :)

You may luck out and just need to replace the run capacitor. Google&youtube will tell you all about easy replacement. They don't cost too much. Unplug it first. :)

Another member may give you specific ideas different than mine. You can diagnose it specifically if you have knowledge and a multimeter. (I guess it could be a refrigerant issue but I doubt it with your description)

Let us know how it works out.
 

West

Senior
That old of a system, it would be interesting to troubleshoot. And it may not be easily repairable.

If you don't have a good multimeter and a thermistor to test temperatures once you do get it running to check charge. Forget about it.

WAGs....

It's probably not a refrigerant leak, from what you explained. The electrical/controls gotta be troubleshot. It sounds like a pressure switch is opening up, and shutting the compressor back off. Or even a bad thermostat. Would need to have a hands on, and or a ton more info.

You can get it restored/repaired, but be prepared to pay up to a few thousand.

Or you could just get one of these brand new ones, that are super efficient, and have all the modern conveniences....


cookstove-electric-elmira-stove-works-retro-model-1959-refrigerator-ESW1959.jpg



From...

 

Sterling

Contributing Member
Oh and be very careful, fridges of the 50s and 60s used ammonia gas as it's freon, so unless it's been converted (I hope it has) you don't want to spring a leak with that stuff.
Also there are clubs that restore old appliances and soda machines, they might be able to help more than us.
 

Dobbin

Faithful Steed
Could also be low on freon, I know that automotive AC units when the freon gets low it automatically shuts down the compressor so you don't blow it up. That's my 2 cents anyway.
Oh and....
:worth:
Probably R12 which today is just about unobtanium. Banned in the US due to "climate change" connection. Most available today is "black market."

There are "modern" replacements (R134?) but they're noted for being "less effective" than original when put in an R12 machine.

Owner had a similar era freezer fail due to loss of refrigerant (he cut a coil while attempting to install cover latches with sheet metal screws.) The repairman was pleased that the coil issue was "near the top" (easy access) but at that time R12 was about $400 per something. "I'll give you my original price which was $28."

So Owner lucked out.

Dobbin
 

Dobbin

Faithful Steed
At that age it got to be bearings or bushings in the compressor
The fact that it runs at all kind of disproves that. I would say probably motor-starter. (capacitor usually)

Owner has told of a refrigerator which was only 5 years old. As he was sitting in his kitchen he could hear the refrigerator cycle on- cycle off - it did this for upwards of a hour as Owner listened?

He called the repair dude. Refrigerator was still under "extended warranty." (fridge 4y 11mo old) Repair dude explained that modern refrigerator compressors are "all made in Mexico" and "aren't worth a damn." And this sort of problem was common.

Repair dude thought he could get it going by installing a "hard-start" (trade nick-name) a device which replaces the usual motor starter but gives more time to get the compressor moving.

The hard start worked for about 10 months, then that failed too (as Owner describes) "In a flash of blue light."

Hard start (or refrigerator) almost burned down Owner's kitchen plug - black marks on the sheet-rock and melted wires.

So be careful. Sounds like a job for a sympathetic service tech.

Dobbin
 

FMJ

Technical Senior
Ice build up around the coils telling the thermistor its already cold? Petrified mouse in the compressor cooling fan? Old refrigerators and freezers were, in my opinion, built like tanks compared to what passes for appliances today. The fix might be simpler than you think.
 

Elza

Veteran Member
First thought is a bad motor capacitor. Easy to replace and cheap to boot. The compressor requires a capacitor to run. When it goes bad the compressor will stall and the clixon (a small circuit breaker essentially) will kick off to protect the compressor. After it cools down it will reset and the cycle continues. It is the most common problem associated with single phase (the power you have in your house) compressors. It happens commonly in refrigerators, air conditioners, anything with a compressor. I have replaced countless motor capacitors over the years. The capacitor should be located somewhere near the compressor. It is likely a round or oblong metal can with two wires plugged into it. Pull it out and take it to the nearest parts house and they will supply you with a new one.

Being low on freon is highly unlikely to cause this problem as the old units don't have pressure switches in the refrigeration loop.
 

Coulter

Veteran Member
As it is a memory - and a testament to why made in the USA - was something to behold - but I'll bet that refrigerator uses A LOT more electricity than one today.
 

Elza

Veteran Member
Repair dude thought he could get it going by installing a "hard-start" (trade nick-name) a device which replaces the usual motor starter but gives more time to get the compressor moving.
I've never heard of putting a hard start kit on a refrigerator. They are often used on multi ton air conditioners because of the size of the compressor motor and low line voltage. A refrigerator compressor is seldom over 1/2 horsepower and doesn't have a problem starting. A/C compressors require approximately 1 horsepower per ton. This can present a substantial starting load.

PROFESSIONAL OPINION: (I'm a retired industrial electrician) Avoid hard start kits like the plague!!!! They have a much oversized capacitor and a relay to disconnect said capacitor once the compressor has started. The relays used are a POS and the contacts weld together. This leaves the big capacitor in the circuit and destroys the compressor very quickly. If your A/C is stalling you have electrical line problems that need to be addressed. Hard start kits are a Band-Aid that will ultimately destroy your A/C compressor.
 

Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
_______________
Iffin' I were trying to get some idea of the problem and didn't have tools to really troubleshoot, I'd start with a Killawatt.

Unplug fridge (feel the compressor and see if it's hot) and let it sit for a few hours, then plug into killawatt and see how much power it's trying to draw.

Plug it in and feel if the compressor starts. If it tries to start with a high power draw that only lasts for a few seconds... compressor is locked or might need a capacitor.

If it starts and runs, but the suction line isn't cool after a few minutes...likely, low refrigerant.

It may or may not have an inside fan. Is it running?
 

Dobbin

Faithful Steed
Hard start kits are a Band-Aid that will ultimately destroy your A/C compressor.
I think that is Owner's opinion today - although I expect he thinks to the result and not the root cause.

What you describe sounds like Owner's description.

Dobbin
 

Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
_______________
I've never heard of putting a hard start kit on a refrigerator. They are often used on multi ton air conditioners because of the size of the compressor motor and low line voltage. A refrigerator compressor is seldom over 1/2 horsepower and doesn't have a problem starting. A/C compressors require approximately 1 horsepower per ton. This can present a substantial starting load.

PROFESSIONAL OPINION: (I'm a retired industrial electrician) Avoid hard start kits like the plague!!!! They have a much oversized capacitor and a relay to disconnect said capacitor once the compressor has started. The relays used are a POS and the contacts weld together. This leaves the big capacitor in the circuit and destroys the compressor very quickly. If your A/C is stalling you have electrical line problems that need to be addressed. Hard start kits are a Band-Aid that will ultimately destroy your A/C compressor.

Many of your higher end units have them installed as OEM.
 

Macgyver

Has No Life - Lives on TB
If you have no tools or expertise I would suggest start with the capacitor.
There cheep and don't last forever.
Get one with the same ratting. Voltage can be higher on the new one if necessary but get the same uf ratting. Uf is the capacitance part of the rating.
It might be strapped to the motor or possibly in a little metal box on the motor itself.
 

meezy

I think I can...
Ice build up around the coils telling the thermistor its already cold? Petrified mouse in the compressor cooling fan? Old refrigerators and freezers were, in my opinion, built like tanks compared to what passes for appliances today. The fix might be simpler than you think.

Can't be ice buildup, it's been unplugged for months and won't run more than a minute.

But, I wouldn't rule out "petrified mouse in the compressor cooling fan." We do have mice. I got rid of most of them -- at least I don't find mouse turds on my desk when I get here anymore. But could be. One autumn our furnace wouldn't run and the repairman said it was a dead bat in there.
 

Freeholder

This too shall pass.
If I had your fridge, I would do everything possible to fix it (as long as it doesn't cost as much as a new frig to fix). New frig's cost big bucks and have short lifespans. They may use less electricity, but they are built like c**p. I wish we'd saved and tried to fix the old one we used to have, that had been my great-grandmother's.

Kathleen
 

Dobbin

Faithful Steed
If I had your fridge, I would do everything possible to fix it (as long as it doesn't cost as much as a new frig to fix). New frig's cost big bucks and have short lifespans. They may use less electricity, but they are built like c**p. I wish we'd saved and tried to fix the old one we used to have, that had been my great-grandmother's.

Kathleen
And even that is not always fact.

Owner has a circa 1978 Maytag washer & dryer. His wife says they're kind of small compared to "modern" machines - and it takes upwards of two hours of running to dry clothes.

"Oh it must use a lot of electricity in that two hours" she says.

"Not so" his reply. "Your clothes come out dry don't they? It takes the SAME amount of energy to dry the water out whether it is done over one hour or two - the issue is in the thermostat which tells the dryer its time to stop." (Owner admits the motor does run longer which uses more electricity - but not like the drying action.)

New refrigerators have "features" to improve your use experience. Like "heaters" to heat the perimeter of the door (to prevent sweating.) Like heaters to heat the "air channel" inside (to keep frost from forming and blocking the channel. )

Even "auto-defrost" which is the feature which keeps you from having to remove everything once a month for manual de-frost - and isn't accounted for in the energy ratings.

Like VW with their diesel cars - they change the ratings to make it "look" better to consumers.

Dobbin
 

meezy

I think I can...
Well, if I can't get it running, I'll move it to our house. I could really use the space it would open up. At home, we're planning to renovate the basement (empty nest project) and put in a 1950's / Midcentury Modern style bar area. The fridge will look nice there even if we just use it for storage.

BTW, we have 2 more "antique" refrigerators in our barn at home, one with the top cooling unit. Mr. "I can fix anything" was planning to rehab and flip them. Not like there's a shortage of fix-ups to keep him busy as it is... like the orange & white VW bus that's also in the barn, in pieces... but this fridge will make a nice place for him to start.
 

dawgofwar10

Veteran Member
Check out the capacitor on the fridge and see if the ones in the barn match, if they do, swap them and see if that cures the problem. BTW, be careful not to touch the two ends, caps are like battery’s they store juice in them.
 

Dobbin

Faithful Steed
Owner's 1978ish Maytag Washer & Dryer is almond. Still going a new dryer motor, heater element, and several belts later.

For a while he had his mother's 1976ish Maytag Washer & Dryer here in the barn - those were avocado. He used them for my cover and blanket. They got infected with mice and got stinky - so he brought them to the dump.

Dobbin
 

Griz3752

Retired, practising Curmudgeon
Meezy if the above are beyond your capabilities yo might look for a used apploance service shop. Years ago when I worked for a Property Mgr, we had all manner of Avocado & Peach coloured appliances as some of the homes were older.We had a couple of used appliance specialists in our vendor list and they often kept some of those running longer than I thought possible.

Just a thought. .....
 
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