Patterns The Free Knitting and Fiber Craft Pattern Thread

[Melodi]

OK, this is an old one, and personally, I think most beginners might want a pattern with even larger needles and a cast on of 40 but this is close at 52 stitches. This one doesn't have any pictures or anything but looks to be a good basic pattern but I haven't made it. This should work with either worsted weight yarn and with anything from the suggested size 3.5 needles to US 5s, depending on how loose or tight you knit.

[ Esther's Knitting Page ]

BRIGGS & LITTLE'S HEAVY SOCK PATTERN
ADULT SIZE

Adult Size 10: Length of leg -- 11 inches (28 cm)
Length of foot between toe and heel -- 8 inches (20 cm)
Note: Lengths of legs and feet may be adjusted but
increases may require more yarn.

Yarn: 2 - 4 oz.( 113 gm) skeins of Briggs & Little 100% Wool Yarn
2/8, 2 ply or Homespun Style
1 - 4 oz. (113 gm) skein of same for contrast stripe if desired
[Note: Suitable yarns for substitution are heavy worsted weight yarns,
which would normally knit to a gauge of 4-4.5 sts on size 5 or 5.5 mm
needles (American sizes 8 or 9).]

Needles: 1 set double pointed 3.25 mm (American size 3)

Tension: To be measured on 3.25 needles in stocking stitch
12 sts and 16 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
If you do not obtain the correct tension, use larger or smaller
needles as indicated.

CHECK YOUR TENSION. A careful check to your tension is the only assurance
you have of a proper size for the finished garment. Your test piece should
be large enough so it can be laid out without being stretched or
compressed by the needles.

ADULT SOCK
Cast on 54 sts. 18 on each of 3 needles. Join. Rib (K2, P1) around. Rib
six rows around in main color; rib six rows around in contrasting color;
rib six rows around in main color; rib six rows around in contrast color.
Continue rib in main color until leg measures 11 ins. or desired length.

TO MAKE A HEEL
Turn work and P 27 sts on 1 needles. Divide remaining sts on 2 needles
(14 and 13). Do not work these sts.
Working on needle with 27 sts. Turn.
Row 1: K1, Sl1 across row ending in K sts. Turn.
Row 2: P across row. Turn.
Repeat: Rows 1 and 2 until work measures 3 inches ending with a P row.

TO TURN HEEL
Row 1: K1, Sl1 for 17 sts. Then Sl1, K1, PSSO. Turn.
Row 2: Sl1, P7, P2 tog. Turn.
Row 3: (Sl1, K1) 4 times, Sl1, K1, PSSO. Turn.
Repeat: Rows 2 and 3 until 9 sts remain. Turn.

TO MAKE INSTEP
K across 9 sts, then pick up and K 15 sts along side of heel. Place 27 sts
divides at start of heel on one needles (front of sock) and rib (K2, P1)
as before. With other needle pick up and K 15 sts from other side of
heel. K5 sts from heel needle on this needle, making 20 sts on 1st needle,
27 on 2nd or front needle, and 19 sts on 3rd needle.
Row 1: K 1st needle, Rib 2nd needle, K 3rd needle.
Row 2: 1st needle: K to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1
2nd needle: Rib
3rd needle, K1, Sl1, K1, PSSO, K to end of needle.
Repeat these two rows until 13 sts remain on 1st needle and 12 sts on 3rd
needle. Continue knitting, keeping rib on 2nd or front needle until foot
measures 8 inches from back of heel, ending 3rd needle.

TO SHAPE TOE
Sl1 from front needle to 3rd needle making 13 sts on each side needle and
26 sts on front needle.
Row 1: 1st needle: K to last 3 sts, K2 tog, k1
2nd needle: (Do not rib when shaping toe)
K1, Sl1, K1, PSSO, K to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1
3rd needle: K1, Sl1, K1, PSSO, K to end of needle.
Row 2: K around all 3 needles.
Repeat these 2 rows until 4 sts remain on 1st needle, 8 sts on 2nd needle
and 4 sts on 3rd needle (16 sts in total). With 3rd needle K the 4 sts
from 1st needle leaving 8 sts on each of 2 needles. Break off yarn about
18 inches long and thread through darning needle to weave or graft toe.

Copyright 1995 Briggs & Little Woolen Mills Ltd. This pattern may be
freely shared and distributed in any medium so long as it remains fully
intact, including this copyright notice, and no profit is made from its
use or distribution. A special thanks is extended to John Little for letting
the "troop knitting" effort make use of this pattern.

Esther S. Bozak
ebozak@cs.oswego.edu
URL: BRIGGS & LITTLE'S HEAVY SOCK PATTERN

 

[Slydersan]

OK, this is an old one, and personally, I think most beginners might want a pattern with even larger needles and a cast on of 40 but this is close at 52 stitches. This one doesn't have any pictures or anything but looks to be a good basic pattern but I haven't made it. This should work with either worsted weight yarn and with anything from the suggested size 3.5 needles to US 5s, depending on how loose or tight you knit.

[ Esther's Knitting Page ]

BRIGGS & LITTLE'S HEAVY SOCK PATTERN

ADULT SIZE

Adult Size 10: Length of leg -- 11 inches (28 cm)
Length of foot between toe and heel -- 8 inches (20 cm)
Note: Lengths of legs and feet may be adjusted but
increases may require more yarn.

Yarn: 2 - 4 oz.( 113 gm) skeins of Briggs & Little 100% Wool Yarn
2/8, 2 ply or Homespun Style
1 - 4 oz. (113 gm) skein of same for contrast stripe if desired
[Note: Suitable yarns for substitution are heavy worsted weight yarns,
which would normally knit to a gauge of 4-4.5 sts on size 5 or 5.5 mm
needles (American sizes 8 or 9).]

Melodi - in this pattern when the yarn says "2/8, 2 ply" what does the 2/8 mean ?? I printed off some of those WW2 Red Cross patterns that were mentioned on another thread and they have things like "4/8 sweater yarn" and "4/14 sock yarn". I couldn't find anywhere what the modern day equivalent would be. I asked my mom and she didn't know either. I searched around the internet and the best I could come up with was like "2/8" would be 2-ply, 8 wraps per inch. Maybe ?!?!?! LOL

 

[Melodi]

Sorry, our net was mostly off for about 2 weeks and then the power went out so I wasn't adding patterns and didn't see this.

I am sorry about the old fashion yarn sizes, this can be a problem with some free or old patterns because they were put out by yarn companies selling their own yarns or are using older terms that were never updated.

Going by my 30 years of knitting socks, a sock needing either 48 or 54 stitches (both common numbers so are 44, is going to be worsted weight yarn and the pattern mentioned that. If you are a loose knitter like me you would not want to use heavy worsted/bulky yarn for those sizes, I have a starter over sock patterns I'll try to dig up that use bulky yarn or 2 strands of worsted yarn on as few as 36 stitches for the leg or less.
aran
For me, I use a size 9 US needle for those types of extra bulky socks to wear as oversocks, but with worsted, I tend to use a size 3 US for the Cuffs and Heals/Toes and size five for the socks. That's because I knit very loosely, so I am almost always one or two needle sizes below the suggested ones.

My suggestion is either just use the directions to make a sock and if they don't fit, well if they are 100 percent wool and too big you can felt them - if too small you can give them away. Sometimes I knit a hat in the same yarn first (if I have a big ball of it) that makes it easy to tell the gage in the round.

For knee socks on modern SOCK YARN, I cast on 80 stitches for the cuff on size 0 US needles, then gradually shape the leg down to 64 stitches for my ankle and foot. Note, I have wide upper legs and narrow ankles, and wide feet. This is why I have started doing versions of ribbing or cables on almost all my socks unless they are colorwork.

Most people with modern sock yarn doing a shorter leg, say 8 to 11 inches, with no shaping will cast on about 64 stitches and do their cuff in size 1 needles and then up to at least size 2 or even 3 (to get the right gauge) for the leg. A lot of knitters do cuffs/heel/toe in size 2 and socks on size 3 needles.

Like I said in the other post, it took me years to get just the right fit in modern sock yarn, worsted/Aran weight yarns I figured out (for me) years ago - start with a max of 72 stitches (for sport weight/max of 78) at the knee and work down to between 48 to 52 stitches for the foot, sometimes as low a 44 for slightly lighter wool yarn or up to 56 for colorwork (which needs more stitches and usually slightly larger needles).

I'll be that is as clear as mud but after the storm is over, I'll try to find some freebies that are easier to read or explain my sock "recipes" better than I can when I'm hoping the power isn't blown out again.

Meanwhile, if this is too complicated, feel free to knit a hat or scarf until we can return to socks.

So the average sock yarn sock for most people not knitting a

 

[AlaskaSue]

Thank you! I love knitting socks but got away from it; I still have a good variety of some of those gorgeous sock yarns from a few years back.

This seems like a good week to pick up my needles…..

 

[Melodi]

OK, I'm actively looking now - I haven't made this but it looks to be a good basic sock pattern - I find size 2.75 needles a bit too large for MY knitting with sock yarn but it will probably be about perfect for most people - again these are the modern thin sock yarns.

This is not a knee sock so no leg shaping.

Basic Sock Pattern 1

Free Basic Sock Knitting Pattern

colourchoices.blogspot.com

Sunday, 10 July 2011
Basic Sock Pattern 1

This is one of my basic sock knitting patterns, it has a heel flap and turned heel, gusset and a round toe. Very comfortable to wear. I find that it works well with a plain yarn, or a self striping yarn.



Materials:

100 g of 4 ply sock yarn
2.75mm set of 5 double pointed needles (dpn's)
3.25mm double pointed needle for casting on
tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

k - knit; p - purl; ssk - slip, slip, knit; p2tog - purl 2 sts together; sl 1 - slip 1 stitch; st - stitch;

Cuff and Leg

Cast on 60 sts using the 3.25mm needle. (I always use a larger needle to cast on).
On the first row using 2.75mm needles, divide over 4 needles, 15 sts on each. Join into a circle, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Work 14 rounds of k1, p1 rib.
K 42 rounds (or as long as you want your sock to be).

Heel Flap

Preparation - place the sts from needles 1 and 2 onto one needle (30 sts) then,

Row 1: k2, (sl 1, p1, across to last two sts), k2, turn
Row 2: k, turn

Rep these two rows a total of 16 times (32 rows)

Turn Heel:

Row 1: p17, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 2: sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn
Row 3: sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 4: sl 1, k7, ssk, k1, turn
Row 5: sl 1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 6: sl 1, k9, ssk, k1, turn
Row 7: sl 1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 8: sl 1, k11, ssk, k1, turn
Row 9: sl 1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 10: sl 1, k13, ssk, k1, turn
Row 11: sl 1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 12: k16, ssk, k1 (18 sts)

Instep:

Pick up and knit 17 sts along side of heel flap, k30 sts across the top of the sock (needles 2 and 3), pick up and knit 17 sts along side of heel flap, then k9 across sole (bottom of sock).

(Needle 1: 26 sts, Needle 2: 15 sts, Needle 3: 15 sts, Needle 4: 26 sts)

K 2 rounds (starting and ending at the centre bottom of sock). On the first round k into back of each of the 17 picked up and knitted sts as this creates a twist in the st and stops any little gaps forming).

Gusset Decreases:

Round 1: k to 3 sts before end of needle 1, k2tog, k 1, k30 sts across needles 2 & 3, k1, ssk, k to end of needle 4.
Round 2: k

Rep these rounds until there are 15 sts on each needle.

Foot:

(For UK size 5 or 6, European size 38 or 39)

Work 42 rounds.

Round Toe: Evenly spread decreases during the decrease round.

Round 1: k4, (k2tog, k5) 8 times.
K 2 rounds
Round 4: k4, (k2tog, k4) 8 times.
K 2 rounds
Round 7: k4, (k2tog, k3) 8 times.
K 2 rounds
Round 10: (k2, k2tog) 9 times
K 2 rounds
Round 13: (k1, k2tog) 9 times
K 1 round
Round 15: k2tog to end (9 sts)

Finishing:
Cut yarn, leaving a 12" (30 cm) tail. Thread the tail onto the tapestry needle and draw it through the remaining sts. Tighten and fasten off. Weave in ends.




Posted by Nicolette at 11:22
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Labels: Knitting Pattern

28 comments:

1. 
   
   AleandJenny6 April 2012 at 06:03
   After the Heel Flap you still have 30 on both needle 1 and 2. How does that work with the Turn Heel 1st row P17, p2tog, p1 equils 20 sts?
   Reply
   Replies
   1. • 
        
        Unknown6 November 2016 at 16:09
        Anybody know the tension with this pattern?
        
        
        
      • 
        
        May17 September 2019 at 17:47
        After u do the heel u have to do the instep where u will Dec each side leaving the front alone as that will be the front of your feet

 

[Melodi]

basic cabled socks

These socks are a small step up from simple 2-by-2 ribbed socks, with the addition of a 6-stitch cable on both sides of the leg (twisting in opposite directions). MATERIALS Yarn: Patons Kroy 4-ply sock yarn (2 balls / 100 g / 350 m), or other sock-weight yarn Needle(s): 2.25 mm Other: cable needle (if you like to use one), tapestry needle (for grafting toe) Gauge: 8.5 sts. / inch in stockinette st. ABBREVIATIONS c6b: hold 3 sts. to the back, knit next 3 sts., knit 3 sts. that were held c6f: hold 3 sts. in front, knit next 3 sts., knit 3 sts. that were held NOTE ON SIZE This pattern comes from socks that I knit to fit me, with my long feet and high instep. I find many sock patterns to be too small. Also, I like my socks to be densely knit. If you think 72 sts. around will be too big for you (either because you don't need so many to be able to get the sock past your heel, or because you are knitting a looser sock or using fatter yarn), this pattern will also work with 64 sts. (Just do one less *p2, k2* on each side of the leg, and work the heel on 32 sts.; you'll have one less *k2, p2* on the top of the foot.) NOTE ON NEEDLES I use one long circular needle to knit socks. You might, too -- or you may use two circs, or four or five double-pointed needles. I'll leave the positioning of stitches on needles up to you. INSTRUCTIONS Leg Using long-tail method, c.o. 72 sts. Join to work in the round. Rows 1, 2, and 3: k1, *p2, k2* until last 3 sts., p2, k1 Row 4: k1, *p2, k2* three times, p2, c6f, *p2, k2* seven times, p2, c6b, *p2, k2* three times, p2, k1 **Rows 5-11: k1, *p2, k2* three times, p2, k6, *p2, k2* seven times, p2, k6, *p2, k2* three times, p2, k1 Row 12: same as Row 4** These 8 rows (Rows 5-12) form the cable pattern for the leg of the sock. Repeat from ** to ** eight more times. Row 77: k1, *p2, k2* four times, p1, k3, *p2, k2* seven times, p2, k3, p1, *k2, p2* four times, k1 Rows 78-81: same as Row 77 Heel Row 82: k1, *p2, k2* four times, p1, k36 Reposition stitches in order to work heel of choice on the 36 sts. just knit (photo shows short-row heel). Foot For the foot of the sock, continue ribbing on top 36 sts. as established: p1, *k2, p2* eight times, k2, p1. Knit all sts. on bottom of foot (36 sts. if short-row heel; decrease to 36 sts. if heel flap). Work foot to desired length, leaving about 2 inches for toe. Work one more round, knitting all sts. Toe Work toe of choice and graft to close. Weave in loose ends. * back to the Brainylady blog *​

 

[Melodi]

This is really close to the pattern I use, only instead of knitting 3 peal one it is K6 pearl 2 either produces great ribbing either done continuously or done with 2 works of Knit all in between the pattern rows. Ribber socks tend to fit the leg better and because they use more yarn, are almost never too small and don't tend to shrink as badly as plain knit socks.

This won't let me copy but the download is free at Ravelry - yeah I know about Ravelry but consider it a great way to get free knitting partners and remember "living well is the best revenge and/or comeback" lol

Vanilla Latte Socks pattern by Virginia Rose-Jeanes

These are vanilla socks with just a tiny kick of caffeine like the coffee milk my grandmother treated me with when I visited her.

www.ravelry.com

​

 

[Melodi]

This looks like another good basic sock - it is also a free download but won't copy directly onto the forum

Basic 4 ply socks
Download PD here:

Join the Sockalong!

Free Basic 4ply Socks pattern and step-by-step Winwick Mum Sockalong tutorials for beginner sock knitters - everything you need to learn to knit socks!

www.winwickmum.co.uk

 

[SlipperySlope]

I remember knitting my sister a pair of socks when I was 10 years old. I was an old pro back then. They were a varigated yarn with bold colors like orange, purple etc. I can still see her sliding down the hall (on purpose)in them. She loved to do that. This has brought back a happy memory of my now gone baby sis.

 

[Broken Arrow]

Basic Ribbed Hat pattern

 

[Martinhouse]

Could someone describe to me what is a slip stitch? I visualize it as transferring a loop from the left needle to the right needle without pulling the usual new stitch through it, but I know I could be 100% wrong, so I thought I'd better ask.

I'm sure there are plenty of videos showing the various stitches, but I don't learn so well from that sort of demonstration.

I so very much wish I'd gotten interested in taking up knitting again before my mom died...she could have showed me all of the neat stitches she knew how to do. I really don't know how she learned to knit, although I suspect it may have been from the aunt who practically raised her during the summers between her boarding school years.

 

[Broken Arrow]

You are correct, you are placing one stitch from one needle to the other without working it K or P. Many times the pattern will tell you to slip as if to knit, or slip as if to purl. You would insert the needle as if you were going to make either of those stitches and just move it that way. Many times a slip stich is worked as a SSK PSSO which is slip one stitch, slip a second stitch, knit the third stitch, and then pass the two slipped ones over the knit one. Its a form of a decrease. Long form of SSK PSSO is slip, slip, knit, pass slip stitches over.

 

[Martinhouse]

Wow! I think I might have to write that one down! I doubt I'll ever knit anything with a big variety of stitches or patterns, but I can see getting creative with these kinds of stitches to make a finished piece thicker and more flexible at the same time.

 

[Melodi]

Almost all knitting patterns are just combinations of K stitch (garter) or pearl stitches. Slipping stitches and not working them at all for one row is also common, but even cable needles are just holders while you knit some other stitches first and then go back to knit the ones on the cable needle which makes a twist (or cable).

I'll try to find some more public patterns over the next couple of weeks and meanwhile please keep posting them here (or links, a lot of patterns these days are free PDFs that don't copy).