Help Sewing knits

[kyrsyan]

I am making some nightshirts and one of them is from a very thin t-shirt knit. I don't normally work with knits that are quite this thin, and as a result, very, very stretchy. The stitches are pulling funny because of the material.

Would using spray starch just before I stitch a section help stiffen it enough? Or should a look at getting some fusible water soluble stabilizer, if a fusible one exists?

Or I can use the quilt basting spray to attach a super thin, almost paper, fabric that I have a roll of.

Adding the question - suggestions for a fusible water soluble stabilizer? Most seem to be only for embroidery hoops and don't fuse.

 

[summerthyme]

Do you have a walking foot? That has helped me. But I've just had to use scraps and play with the tension to see what works... some of the new, super stretchy 4-way knits are buggers to sew! If I'm using my regular machine, I use a very narrow (barely discernible) zigzag stitch... I dont worry about pressing seams on knits anyway, and it provides some "give" in the seam.

Something people have recommended when sewing lycra swimsuit fabrics is to use a piece of tissue paper underneath, then tear it away later.

Never thought about trying starch or stabilizer, but it would be worth trying.

Summerthyme

 

[kyrsyan]

Do you have a walking foot? That has helped me. But I've just had to use scraps and play with the tension to see what works... some of the new, super stretchy 4-way knits are buggers to sew! If I'm using my regular machine, I use a very narrow (barely discernible) zigzag stitch... I dont worry about pressing seams on knits anyway, and it provides some "give" in the seam.

Something people have recommended when sewing lycra swimsuit fabrics is to use a piece of tissue paper underneath, then tear it away later.

Never thought about trying starch or stabilizer, but it would be worth trying.

Summerthyme

Not for this machine. The machines I do have them for are headed to the repair shop for problems like timing and tension. They should be home, barring new discoveries of repairs needed, in a few weeks. The vikings don't have one made for it, and given the price of them, I'm not really willing to keep buying ones for slant machines and trying them out.

Lycra hasn't been a problem, past that it's slippery as heck. So I pin the heck out of it.

This is just super thin 4 way stretch knit. Even thinner than the stuff I used last time. And I'm using a #10 needle. I don't have a smaller needle than that. So none of the stitching looks good except for a plain straight machine stitch. I used that on the pocket, with eloflex thread, but that trick will not hold side seams and bottom hems against my son.

 

[pauldingbabe]

Serger/ overlock machine.

Or like summerthyme said just practice with stitches and tensions.

You could do a "stretchy" zigzag over the straight line. Or a narrow tight zigzag so that the stitches lay flat. You could also do straight stitch, zigzag, then straight stitch again, or a double needle with a zigzag in-between?

Hmmm, now I want to know. Honestly I would get my serger out.

 

[Kathy in FL]

And I hate to bring it up because I know what a pain it can be, but find you some old fashioned binding. They used to make it in lace and even a nearly transparent tape.

Another option would be using that fusible hemming tape ... only don't fuse it, just use it as binding.

 

[kyrsyan]

The serger is out. I'm just not used to things about it with knits. I'll run a test strip tomorrow.

Starch helped a hair but not enough. While it still looked ragged at least it didn't look like it was doing loop de loops.

I haven't had much luck with fusible hem tape and stitching. It gums up the machinr. But I'll do some info digging and see if there's a lightweight basting version.

I'll check the box of old bindings I inherited and see what's in there.

Good ideas.

 

[Martinhouse]

Sorta sounds like you're spending enough time on this thing that it might have been worth just whip-stitching it by hand! The whip-stitch would have plenty of stretch and bind the edge at the same time.

 

[kyrsyan]

Sorta sounds like you're spending enough time on this thing that it might have been worth just whip-stitching it by hand! The whip-stitch would have plenty of stretch and bind the edge at the same time.

If I was just making one, sure. But I'd rather find the solution because I'm making several. At least 2 from this fabric. And whipstitching the bottom hem wouldn't really be a problem. But all the seams need stitching without buckling and being messy.

 

[kyrsyan]

I found water soluble basting tape. I don't know if it'll work. I'm still digging. But I've put that one on hold for the moment. I'll cut the matching one and tuck them into their bag until I decided which path to take on this. But I can cut the thicker materials to make him a few. I may get the basting tape to help with the lycra slipperyness. And if I do, I'll test it on the thinner material as a stabilizer.

I did find a knit stabilizing tape. I may try that.

For now, unless there are more ideas, I'm going to let the back brain toss it for a bit. And work on the other one that is already cut and is having no problems. And continue on the project list. The shirts will get made, it may just take some more experimenting.

 

[pauldingbabe]

Do you have a rolled hem foot?

You could just roll the seems. Like when sewing chenille (like sewing water!) a rolled hem foot would do...?

I mean you could always baste the fabric, gather a little, then sew the permanent seem too, but who likes to baste? Lol?

 

[pauldingbabe]

This is tickling my sewing OCD...

Can yall tell? I love noodling this kind of stuff.

 

[kyrsyan]

This is tickling my sewing OCD...

Can yall tell? I love noodling this kind of stuff.

You aren't the only one. And since I'd like to make me some pj bottoms out of a similar thin knit, I'm just going to test ideas until I find at least one that works.

 

[Meemur]

You have tons more patience than I!
Fabric that is too hard for me to sew becomes the guts of dolls and stuffed animals.
Yes, it's sometimes wasteful, but my time is a factor, too.

Walmart clothing, often found in the thrift stores these days, has those thin, stretchy knits.
I leave those clothes alone. Not worth my time . . .
Now, thick denim from the past . . . different story!

 

[kyrsyan]

You have tons more patience than I!
Fabric that is too hard for me to sew becomes the guts of dolls and stuffed animals.
Yes, it's sometimes wasteful, but my time is a factor, too.

Walmart clothing, often found in the thrift stores these days, has those thin, stretchy knits.
I leave those clothes alone. Not worth my time . . .
Now, thick denim from the past . . . different story!

I actually like making our things. Even the thin knits are better than anything I could buy. I'm considering this the overhaul of our wardrobes. Things he won't wear or I don't wear will either be repurposed or go to thrift.

For him, it's slowly determining what his sensory issues are in relation to different fabrics and styles/cuts of clothing. After not being able to find his preferred clothing the last few years, I'm done. If I can figure out the issues and create patterns, there shouldn't be future issues.

For me, it's just remaking my wardrobe with clothes I like to replace the ones I've been making due with. Because it is that period of life, I will make one all black outfit. But in a style I am comfortable with. I'm done with the "look like a business person" look. I'm going to look like me.

 

[Meemur]

That's a great point about an all-black outfit in a comfortable style. I've been wearing a navy blue skirted suit for funerals. Business wear, for sure. But at least it's not a halter, jeans, and flip flops!

 

[summerthyme]

I really need to get busy on a "funeral dress" . Hubby has one sister fighting late stage breast cancer, and his mom just turned 94. We're definitely getting yo that stage of life, and I don't want to be frantically sewing an hour after getting a phone call...

The problem is, we have NO closets! Our SIL is building us a modular armoire, and apparently its almost finished. But all my better clothes (I live in jeans, turtlenecks and sweaters, and t-shirts and tank tops in the summer, so there aren't many) have been boxed up for 2 years.

I've got a really beautiful rayon hand dyed batik in dark blues and dark purples... subdued, but not plain black. I figure if I choose the style carefully, it should be appropriate.

Summerthyme

 

[kyrsyan]

A dear friend lost her mom years ago and lost her dad the end of last year. My SIL lost both her parents at the end of last year. It is what it is.

Not only do I need to design a nice "formal" outfit for me but I have to design one for my son that he can wear and help him stay calm. I'm really debating also adding a big deep hood that he can hide in as the visual stimulation gets to be too much.

So it's on the list. Along with the wardrobe revamp.

 

[Melodi]

My Mother tried making "t-shirts" to save money when I was in high school. She used a zig-zag foot. They never looked or felt "right" to me, so I haven't bothered with knit fabrics much (except hand knits). I use a zig-zag when cutting steeks).

My Mother was an excellent seamstress. She made all my late 1950s and early 1960s little girl dresses with bows in the back and all her dresses. To this day, even with bad arthritis, I can still tie a bow behind my back. I learned to do that before I learned to tie my shoes!

So my Mom had excellent tailoring skills, but the t-shirts were not "groovy" enough for me to wear at age 13 (lol).

 

[summerthyme]

The advent of the home serger certainly revolutionized home sewing. I remember hours of sewing zigzag around the outer edge of every piece of fabric after cutting out the pattern, to prevent ravelling. What a PITA! And pinking shears!

I learned how to make French seams and flat felled seams... but that was only worth doing to fancy tailored items or workwear from high quality fabrics which were expected to last for years. I did double top stitch all the serged seams on the men's sweatshirts I made for Christmas... it is amazing how much better they look. And, of course, there won't be any seam failures before the fabric itself wears out.

But I've had some.... interesting (read frustrating! ) afternoons sewing some of these crazy modern stretchy knits... I haven't used seam tape on shoulders in years, and never on kids clothes. It's vital on some of these knits!

Some days, I just put them down, and make a pieced cotton quilt project to clear my mind, and assure myself I haven't lost the ability to sew!

Summerthyme

 

[Sacajawea]

I've used the fusible, dissolvable embroidery stabilizer on my Viking - for embroidery, of course. I don't see why that wouldn't work on this knit.

 

[Meemur]

I'll keep this discussion in mind if I run into thin, stretchy knits, again.
Right now, I'm making summer curtains for the patio doors. The ones I wanted to buy were $129!
Ugh! They weren't even lined.

 

[kyrsyan]

The advent of the home serger certainly revolutionized home sewing. I remember hours of sewing zigzag around the outer edge of every piece of fabric after cutting out the pattern, to prevent ravelling. What a PITA! And pinking shears!

I learned how to make French seams and flat felled seams... but that was only worth doing to fancy tailored items or workwear from high quality fabrics which were expected to last for years. I did double top stitch all the serged seams on the men's sweatshirts I made for Christmas... it is amazing how much better they look. And, of course, there want be any seam failures before the fabric itself wears out.

But I've had some.... interesting (read frustrating! ) afternoons sewing some of these crazy modern stretchy knits... I haven't used seam tape on shoulders in years, and never on kods clothes. It's vital on some of these knits!

Some days, I just put them down, and make a pieced cotton quilt project to clear my m8nd, and assure myself I haven't lost the ability to sew!

Summerthyme

I still have a pair of pinking shears. OMG, the sharpeners used to hate doing those. I have the serger but the Viking will also do an overlock stitch that works.

One thing I love about making my own is that the seams rarely ever fail before the fabric does. One of the reason I started doing so much of my own clothing was because of paying for what was supposed to be high quality clothing, and then having the items fall apart at the seams.

I'm not worrying about seam tape on these. Yet.

I've used the fusible, dissolvable embroidery stabilizer on my Viking - for embroidery, of course. I don't see why that wouldn't work on this knit.

Thank you. That is on the table to try as well. And truthfully, likely the first thing I head for if the basting tape I get for the Lycra fabric doesn't work. Do you use a specific brand that you can recommend?

I'll keep this discussion in mind if I run into thin, stretchy knits, again.
Right now, I'm making summer curtains for the patio doors. The ones I wanted to buy were $129!
Ugh! They weren't even lined.

I know. Another reason I sew is because I can make better quality than what is being sold in the stores. And normally for much less money. Window coverings are on the list as well. I'm still debating several things there. My conflicts will likely be resolved by doing several layers of coverings so that things from wanting sunshine to helping heat stay in can be handled without having to continually change out curtains.

 

[Donna_in_OK]

Could you try tissue paper (or even copy paper) under the seam as you sew? Simply tear away when finished. Might be a pain, but it may help. I have the ability to lighten my pressure foot pressure and that helps TONS, along with special stitches for knits. If you have some scrap, give the tissue paper a try with the stitch you were using it on.

 

[kyrsyan]

Could you try tissue paper (or even copy paper) under the seam as you sew? Simply tear away when finished. Might be a pain, but it may help. I have the ability to lighten my pressure foot pressure and that helps TONS, along with special stitches for knits. If you have some scrap, give the tissue paper a try with the stitch you were using it on.

I had forgotten that I can lighten my pressure foot pressure. I will check that.

 

[kyrsyan]

Borrowed a walking foot from a friend. I have to return it. We're both amazed that it fit. Unfortunately she doesn't remember where she got it and there is no information on the walking foot itself.

If I can, I'm going to take it to Joann's with me and see if I can find something close to it.

Cannot use any of the stitches specifically for stretch materials. All that does is make a knotted mess. So used the tightest zigzag with eloflex as the top thread. That works. Will be working that one this week.

Made a lycra one. Used basting spray. That made a mess but proved that it would be worth the expense of basting tape if I'm going to be doing it even semi-regularly. I'm going to have to wash the ironing mat though.

Taking a break for the rest of the weekend. I got two finished this past week. Have one partially done. And will cut for one more. Then on to a different project.

Still have two skirts to finish, and a third and fourth to start. And tops to match with them. But also seedlings and garden prep. And deep spring cleaning.

 

[summerthyme]

Check on Temu for a walking foot...

Summerthyme

 

[kyrsyan]

Check on Temu for a walking foot...

Summerthyme

I have. But until I have some type of model information, it's a crap shoot. And they only had one. I looked a few other places but without measurements to compare it's only guessing. And they have a contraption for cutting off excess fabric as you sew that looks interesting.

I'm still waiting for the original order. It supposedly has shipped but it hasn't moved in over a week.

 

[packyderms_wife]

google stretch and sew videos, it's all about sewing knits.

 

[kyrsyan]

google stretch and sew videos, it's all about sewing knits.

Thank you. I've watched them. They have been very helpful. This knit is just a bit of a challenge becaise of how thin it is.