CHAT My NEW HOME just got here!!

Texican

Live Free & Die Free.... God Freedom Country....
Do not run your propane appliances inside your Quonset hut unless both ends are open, unless CO is your preference for inhalation.

If the propane burners are set correctly there is no problem with using propane inside. We have two large open propane heaters that we have used for years with zero CO problems.

Texican....
 

ioujc

MARANTHA!! Even so, come LORD JESUS!!!
Do not run your propane appliances inside your Quonset hut unless both ends are open, unless CO is your preference for inhalation.
Yes, was going to install a giant attic fan.

Also, in relation to that, have only had propane heat for at least 35 years, except for the few years I had a wood stove. The homes were not super retro fit tight, but they were fairly tight. If the stove and burners are set correctly, they work fine and won't kill you, or are you talking about the exhaust that might be vented from the camper??
 
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Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
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THANK YOU!!

Yes, after Millwright said that, I looked them up, but how would you get the camper to move??And, once you got it moving, how do you get it to stop???

It depends on the weight of your RV.

Light skates are good for around 1500lb ea.

Making a WAG, you have 3 - 6000lb axles...so your weight is around 10k lb.
 

Knighttemplar

Veteran Member
If I was doing it I would get the front up high by changing the hitch box. Then get the rear wheels on the concrete so i could take them off and on to the dollies, letting the air out of the tires would help. Then move it back until the middle wheels are on the concrete. About this time you may have to unhitch to move the hitch box back down. Then continue on as before. Would really need to see the approch to your hut to give more detail.
 

Double_A

TB Fanatic
Close, but not a HOME until it has at least one crochet afghan, and a macrame plant hanger.

:) Congrats!

"macrame plant hanger".....deja vu, 1982

with the plant's pot being the bottom of a bottle cut-off, I had the tool
That's an interesting fad.
 

db cooper

Resident Secret Squirrel
Very nice indeed! Hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoy ours.

A bit of advice. On one of our camping trips we ran across a guy from NY that said he did webinars on the headaches of new campers. The primary headache is getting the dealer to honor the warranty. He recommended the best way to avoid all that headache was to buy a fairly new used model that has all the bugs worked out. His theory was you would not have that screwed feeling when the dealer would not honor a warranty issue.

We never listened to him and bought brand new. Paid dearly for the thing. And right way there were issues. Took it back to the dealer and they claimed the problems were either our fault or they did not exist. Talk about elevated blood pressure!

My advice is check it out completely, take it back right away for any issue you may have to pay for later. One issue they refused to fix was the holding tanks level indicator. They claimed once a unit is used the tank needs to be cleaned, and it was our job. They should show empty if still new. If not, take it back right away. If used, drain them and check.

We like ours much better now that it's three years old as there is no stress associated with warranty issues, as the warranty expired.
 

ioujc

MARANTHA!! Even so, come LORD JESUS!!!
Very nice indeed! Hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoy ours.

A bit of advice. On one of our camping trips we ran across a guy from NY that said he did webinars on the headaches of new campers. The primary headache is getting the dealer to honor the warranty. He recommended the best way to avoid all that headache was to buy a fairly new used model that has all the bugs worked out. His theory was you would not have that screwed feeling when the dealer would not honor a warranty issue.

We never listened to him and bought brand new. Paid dearly for the thing. And right way there were issues. Took it back to the dealer and they claimed the problems were either our fault or they did not exist. Talk about elevated blood pressure!

My advice is check it out completely, take it back right away for any issue you may have to pay for later. One issue they refused to fix was the holding tanks level indicator. They claimed once a unit is used the tank needs to be cleaned, and it was our job. They should show empty if still new. If not, take it back right away. If used, drain them and check.

We like ours much better now that it's three years old as there is no stress associated with warranty issues, as the warranty expired.
It is older>>>made in 1999 and bought from an individual who kept it in a Quonset hut when not on the road with it!

No warranty at all.
 

ioujc

MARANTHA!! Even so, come LORD JESUS!!!
If I was doing it I would get the front up high by changing the hitch box. Then get the rear wheels on the concrete so i could take them off and on to the dollies, letting the air out of the tires would help. Then move it back until the middle wheels are on the concrete. About this time you may have to unhitch to move the hitch box back down. Then continue on as before. Would really need to see the approch to your hut to give more detail.
Will try to post a picture tomorrow>>>it is DARK now.
 

Meemur

Voice on the Prairie / FJB!
ioujc, also consider how prone your area is to earthquakes as you decide how to set up your trailer. If you are anywhere near a fault line, I would encourage you to leave the tires on.
 

Alaskan_Leatherhead

Contributing Member
If you're looking for heating options for your trailer you should check out using a toyo heater. A lot of people use them up here in anything from campers to, and houses. It's similar to one of those indoor kerosene heaters except it has a vent that goes to the outside, and runs off anything from heating oil to kerosene or diesel.


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ioujc

MARANTHA!! Even so, come LORD JESUS!!!
Does that have CO2 detectors that came with it, i.e. by the stove area, by the outlets?
Yes, it does indeed.

The camper its self has a heater, no problem. The issue is that in the winter the water lines, which are inside the belly of the camper, may freeze if they are not inside another building, which is warm, or if they cannot be heated by some form of heat underneath the camper. That is why I was thinking of the wood furnace to use under the body of the camper. However, now, with the ideas and advise I have received here, I think I will probably be able to get it into the Quonset hut.
 
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db cooper

Resident Secret Squirrel
It is older>>>made in 1999 and bought from an individual who kept it in a Quonset hut when not on the road with it!

No warranty at all.
Glad to hear that. For it's age, it is very well taken care of and looks like new. My life's experiences have taught me new is not always better.
 

DazedandConfused

Veteran Member
Nice !! You could install underpinning around the base just like a normal house trailer add a little insulation around the pipes. Set up a heat lamp to turn on when it gets down cold enough to freeze the pipes.
Friends of mine setup their camper that way while living in it as they built their house and went thru two winters with no problems that I know of.
Good Luck
 

jward

passin' thru
Happy dancin' for you! That kitchen is plenty big nuff to continue processing all your garden/farm hauls. Amazing. I think I'm a wee bit jelly :D

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..were I a wee bit braver I'd have property through out the country and hit the road in one o' those bad boys meself!
 

Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
_______________
Back it in the shelter with a regular tow vehicle, if at all possible.

I hope you measured at the front of the RV, it's the tallest part. The rear ladder may have to come off.

Is there a lip in the concrete at the shelter entrance? (I'm assuming there is, for discussion purposes)

How good is the concrete finish? If it's not very smooth, that makes things harder.

If you can the axles over the lip with the tow vehicle, that's most of the battle.

I would back it in as far as possible, then remove the wheels from the middle axle. See if the other two aren't rubbing at the top. This will load those springs more and should gain a few inches. Lower the air pressure as much as possible...another few inches. Leave room to lift it off of the 5th wheel.

Hit the front landing gear on floor jacks (easier to steer) or skates.

I'd probably set an anchor bolt at the rear of the slab to tie a good come-along to and pull it all the way in with that. Maybe you can park the truck around back and use it as an anchor point?

If you need heavy equipment skates to put under the spring perch of the axles, a good tool rental company should have them.

Without being there to really eyeball things, this is just some ideas.
 

Yarnball

Veteran Member
I don't recall where you settled? I'm up for a grand adventure. Maybe we could all come and help get it in the hut. I'll bring the beer.

I'm up for some grand adventures. Live in North Texas if anyone needs help with something. Hard worker. Just ask.
 

Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
_______________
A pair of skates can move 34,000 lb.

It's possible that you could put a 6X6 wood beam under all three axles and move the trailer on just two skates.

These are cheep chicom examples, $150/pair.

Rentals would probably serve you better tho.

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ETA: they need very smooth concrete to work well, otherwise you would need some steel plate to roll them on.
 

ioujc

MARANTHA!! Even so, come LORD JESUS!!!
The concrete floor is like polished marble. It is up off the ground by about 2 & 1/2 feet, however with the gravel (that I have about half-way spread) it is just like driving up a ramp.

We have a heavy machinery rental place in town and that will work perfectly>>>>I do need to check and see if they have the skates!

Yarnball, I am in the Missouri Ozarks.... I have six acres and I grow ROCKS!! Sometimes it seems that way. Actually, my garden is coming along OK>>>>spent about 4 hours out there this morning....
 

db cooper

Resident Secret Squirrel
In fact, it may be TOO TALL to fit inside the Quonset hut!!!!
I missed the quoted part and see others have replied. Here's my two cents worth.

In our travels we come across a few overpasses where we question whether or not our RV will pass under. What we did was take a straight 8' long 2x4 and place one end on the highest part of the RV, which in our case is the AC unit. We use a level to be certain the 2x4 is level. We are parked on a smooth flat surface.

Now with this level 2x4 extending over the side of the camper, we take a tape measure and measure the distance from the bottom of the 2x4 to the flat level ground. This will give a measurement that is about as accurate as can be for the clearance height of the camper. The accuracy is dependent upon how level the 2x4 is, how flat and level the ground is, and one's measuring skills.

Try this. Once you know your RV's clearance height, measure the opening of your quonset door.

Others have given suggestions about using skates after removing wheels, etc. Even if wheels removed, I'd still do this clearance height check. It's a whole lot cheaper than repairing the AC unit, if that is your highest point.
 

ioujc

MARANTHA!! Even so, come LORD JESUS!!!
I have measured both.

The camper is 12 feet high at the air conditioner.

The Quonset hut is 12 feet high at the peak of the roof. There is a 2 inch overhang on the metal of the roof.

This means that I will have to reduce the tires to get the A/C in, not to mention that the roof of the hut slopes down on the sides and will scrape the edges of the camper>>>>most likely. Will have to use my ladder again to measure those two new points and figure out what exactly CAN be done!!
 
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