PREP How to start a garden in hot temps?

annieosage

Inactive
I know it is late in the season but I'm not sure what to do. On one whole side of our house we have it rocked in. This would be a great area to start a vegetable garden. The problem is it faces south all day and gets the sun from dawn to dusk. Here in Vegas where temps can top 115+ that would kill off everything.

So I was thinking (could be very dangerous thing :shkr:). If I get build some kind of covering like a mesh covering that would allow in some sun but block most of the direct sun- would that work? I have really been wanting to do this for some time now but don't know where to start.

We also have to remove the rocks and what to do with the soil underneath? Should we soften it up and put a topsoil over it? I really don't even know where to start
 

Double_A

TB Fanatic
Shadecloth would prevent plants from getting sunburn and I'm sure would be required.

Our recent hot spell here in the Central coast area of California (temps 100-103) lead to my tomatoes getting sunburn and cucumbers wilting.

But my squash and zucchini went wild in the heat and produced like crazy.

I would imaging the intense air temps would make things difficult as will as direct sun. Water use might be VERY high.

If you have some kind of local gardening club or group I'm sure they could give you some advice.
 

Caplock50

I am the Winter Warrior
Okra loves the hot dry areas. It's actually native to Africa and that's why. Use the stones you'd have to remove to make a stone wall around the area. The soil should only need to be broken up at first, but, as the plants use up the nutrients, you'll have to do some fertilizing. Any kind of 'lattice-work' cover should be good enough to shade the plants...just set it up like you were adding on a porch roof. Heck, it just might be nice enough for you to enjoy sitting out there to water the plants.

But, I think I'd wait until next spring to think about planting a garden. Plants 'know' when to mature and when not to. I planted my corn a few weeks too late and they have made ears...but there's just nothing inside them...nothing. I got corn stalks and nothing more, because they 'knew' it was too late in the year for them.
 

duchess47

Has No Life - Lives on TB
My sister's ex-grandfather-in-law used to tell her if you can get water to the desert you can grow anything. Seems to be true because although our ground looks very close to sand, with water, we can grow just about whatever we want. We put a drip soaker hose (1/4 inch) down each row and water at night. Turn the drip on when the sun goes down and turn it off in the morning. Like Cap says, a lattice work roof of sorts or one of the shade clothes that you put over dog kennels. We don't have anything over our garden and it does fine but I think the weeds provide a lot of shade. Just picked broccoli, squash and lettuce this morning. Oh, and artichokes.
 

summerthyme

Administrator
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I'd probably start SMALL... earthboxes or similar containers (and because of your heat, either use light colored containers, paint them white or reflective, or put "space blankets" around them to reflect as much heast as possible), and shade cloth.

Don't even bother trying to start any lettuce, spinach, etc right now.. they hate heat, and in fact, won't even germinate. Even here in the frozen north, I have to start lettuce seeds in my cool basement for my fall crop, when it's 90 degrees in the shade outside. (it's soil temps, not air temps which are the problem, but they go hand in hand)

Cappy... sorry to hear about your corn! But,.. it wasn't "it knew it was the wrong time" if it grew ok but didn't produce kernels. I'm not quite sure from your post what did happen, but it's possible (if the silks are not dark brown) that it's just not time yet (has it been 70-90 days since planting?). Its more likely a pollination problem... corn is wind pollinated, and MUST be planted in blocks, not just a couple long rows. The other issue can be heat... above a certain (hot) temp, the pollen doesn't "work".

I think Annie may be able to grow some plants for a fall garden, but it might need to wait until the hottest part of the summer is past.

Summerthyme
 

Hermit

Inactive
frutpad.jpg


from http://www.desertusa.com/magoct97/oct_pear.html

The prickly pear fruit normally ripens and is ready for harvest during the late summer and early fall months. When gathering the fruit, wear leather or rubber gloves to avoid contact with the cactus needles. They are a nuisance, especially the tiny soft-appearing barbs of glochids on the fruit itself. The glochids are very difficult to remove if you get them in your skin. A long-handled tong can also be used to pick the fruit from the cactus. Once you have harvested the fruit, you will need to remove the glochids by passing the fruit through an open flame or shaking the fruit in a bag of hot coals. The glochids can also be removed by cutting them away with a knife or peeling off the skin. Once the fruit is removed from the cactus, it will rapidly lose nutritional value and may ferment, so try to consume or process soon after harvesting.

After you have removed the glochids you can eat the fruit fresh, or prepare it in several ways. Prickly pear juice can be used to make jelly, conserve, marmalade or poured on salads. It can also be mixed with other juices to make smoothies, shakes and other refreshing beverages. Mixing the juice with 7-Up or ginger ale will give you a tasty drink similar to a Shirley Temple. See Prickly Pear Drink Recipes.

Prickly pear fruit can also be used in pies, dried for a snack food or used as a filler/topping for desserts. If you have a recipe you would like to share, e-mail it to lil@desertusa.com, and we will post it with the recipes listed below.

If you would like to enjoy the products of the Prickly Pear we now stock a selections of jams and the prickly pear juices to use with our recipes. See below.

Prickly Pear Juice

Select ripe prickly pears, including a few on the green side to add pectin if making jelly. Wash and rinse. Place in a pot with 1 cup of water and cook over low heat until tender (about 20 minutes). Mash with a potato masher and strain to remove seeds and fibers.

Prickly Pear Jelly

4 cups prickly pear juice
5 cups sugar
2 package of powdered pectin

Follow the pectin manufacturer's directions for adding ingredients and fast boil, stirring constantly. Bring to a hard boil that cannot be stirred down, boil for 3 minutes. Pour into sterilized jars and seal.

Prickly Pear Puree

Wash and peel ripe prickly pears. Cut in half with a knife and scoop out the seeds. Force the raw pulp through a medium to fine strainer. Freeze either fruit pulp or the puree. Simply pack into freezer containers and seal. Thaw before using.

Prickly Pear Salad Dressing

1/2 cup prickly pear puree
1/3 cup salad oil (not olive oil)
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. sugar
3 to 4 Tbs. tarragon white wine vinegar

Shake all ingredients together in a covered jar. Makes about 1 cup . This pretty pink dressing is thin like an oil and vinegar dressing, but lower in calories. Good on fruit salads and tossed green salads.

Prickly Pear Marmalade

4 cups chopped prickly pears
1 cup sliced lemon
2 oranges
1 or more cups of sugar (see below)

Chop orange peel and pulp. Add 4 cups water to lemon and orange. Let stand 12 to 18 hours in a cool place. Boil until peel is tender. Cool. Measure lemon, orange and water in which cooked. Add chopped prickly pears and 1 cup of sugar for each cup of combined pear, lemon, orange and water. Boil to the jellying point. Pour, boiling hot, into hot jars. Seal at once.

Prickly Pear Drink Recipes
 

annieosage

Inactive
I think Annie may be able to grow some plants for a fall garden, but it might need to wait until the hottest part of the summer is past.

Yes by the time I get the planning done and do the preplanting work it will be several weeks. Since I work full time I don't have a lot of spare time but really want to make this work. Not to mention when it's 110+ outside who wants to be out there? So it will take a while to get going.
 

Caplock50

I am the Winter Warrior
The 'silks' are almost black in color. I don't think I've seen any honey bees around here either. Oh and my corn is planted in three rows which are about 100 feet long. that's all I have, too. They got blew over about three different times by the wind in some rainstorms that went through here...and I stood each one back up by hand, crawling along on my hands and knees. It could be that 'shock' was just too much for them.
 

NoPlugsNM

Deceased
Annie - I live in a climate similar to yours, maybe a few degrees cooler, but the sun is truly hot at 7K ft elevation, above the inversion layer.

Here is how I did my stuff, built it a little at a time, as time allowed - I'm busy too. You could easily deal with it like I did, and we usually plant most of our garden now because the monsoon season is beginning. We start out seeds in peat pots, usually in June. We start them in the north/shaded side first, the heat really gets them going well. Then we slowly move them out to the garden area, exposing them more and more to the sun. Once they get a little growth, say 3-4 ins tall or thereabouts, we plant them in the tires.

I built a 6' x 104' privacy fence on my west side, lined the inside of the fence with 20" center diameter old tires I got from the local tire shop, they are happy to give them away. I filled them with a mix of sand-dirt-peat-and horse manure, making the manure the top layer. Then planted tomatoes, green peppers, bush peas, zucchini, etc in them. The fence along with the tires are great for stuff that vines. I stacked the tires 3-high for my potatoes, use the tractor to lift them to harvest the potatoes from the bottom.

Everything grows exceptionately well using the tires, fence and slightly protective lattice. You could use shade cloth on top of the lattice I guess, but the lattice works perfectly. Best part about this kind of setup is it is low maintenance. My neighbor saw the way I did mine and did his the same, he also put in a drip watering system, turns it on every couple days for about 20 minutes, waters everything at once.

NP

The inside of the tire bead holds water so your plants never dry out by much if you water them about 3 times per week.

On the top rail of the fence, at 2' widths I made a frame that extends out and put lattice on it. That partially shades the plants, changes the suns feed as it moves-the plants still get sun exposure but no direct all day, the lattice also breaks the pelting hail that comes with most summer storms so the plants aren't damaged.
 

summerthyme

Administrator
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Cappy...it may well be that the shock of being blown over more than once was too much, especially if it was tassled/ready to pollinate soon after one of the events. Small feeder roots break every time a plant is partially pulled out of the ground... not good.

BUT... (first, honeybees won't make any difference at all for corn, or wheat or almost any grain I can think of... amaranth *may* be an exception)

Instead of planting "three long rows", you really need to plant a block of, say 12 rows, by 1/4 the length of the "long" rows. It can be a bit of a PITA, as far as cultivating, etc (especially if you are using any machine power- not a problem for you, I suspect), but it's important. Even plants on the very edges of large fields (the upwind edge, usually) will have fewer kernels and may show "poor fill", especially in areas where the wind always blows from one direction.

Where we are, we get enough "odd" winds from thunderstorms that although most of our breezes are from the west, those brief east winds will usually provide the last little bit of pollination.

I'm sorry to hear you didn't get a crop. If you have the energy, I'd pull those plants (or just cut them off short, and plant NEXT to them) and plant something like beans, or maybe even late peas or other "cool weather" plants for fall harvest. The beans would do well now... where you are (I think) the peas would have to wait at least a month, if not 6 weeks... depending on when your growing season finally gives up.

Summerthyme
 

grommit

Senior Member
If you are starting this late, you have little options but to do something like square foot gardening, "abandon" your soil and put Mel's "perfect mix" on top. That is 1/3 each peat moss, vermiculite, and the most diverse compost you can come up with on short notice. Slap some boxes together, fill them with this instant soil and plant warm weather crops.

What love the blistering heat? Yard long beans, new zealand spinach, more primitive small tomatoes like those that grow wild in Mexico, I do not know off the top of my head what else.

Next get ready for the fall crops. Lots of things are planted in late summer for fall crops normally, and you will be just in time to jump all over them. Several plantings of carrots, lettuce, radishes, "regular" spinach and turnips
 

Caplock50

I am the Winter Warrior
Well, I figure that after TSHTF, there won't be any way for me to get fertilizer. Heck, it's already reached that point now, though. Anyway, I used no fertilizer on my crops; nor any pesticides. And I used only a 'people-powered push plow'(some have laughed at this phrase) to work the land. A hoe, a rake, and my little push plow are the only tools I've used to do it all.
 
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