(Farm) What's wrong with my tomatoes???

deborah10

Inactive
I have got a severe problem with some of my tomatoe plants. I have two rows of tomatoes. The first row, which has a black spotted and yellow leaves that fall off and is contagious to all other plants in that row, I have planted in ground that has acorns that fall in it (the row sets under an oak tree, but it gets lots of morning and midday sun), and the other row, which is about 10 feet over looks good. Now, the first row is planted with Arkansas Traveler which is not a hybrid, and the other row is planted with Early Girl, which is a hybrid. However, these leaves on the Arkansas Traveler are yellowing and falling off with black spots on them and my plants will soon be gone if I don't find out what is happening. We have had lots of good rain also. Does anyone know what I can do, or what is going on??? Help!!!!
 

data junkie

Membership Revoked
Have you sprayed them with an anti-fungal? If so, I'd take a leaf into a local nursery. They'd be able to ID the disease and recommend a product.
 

securitysix

Senior Member
You probably have the same thing i have,the greenhouse here identified it as Septoria leaf spot.I picked up a fungicide for it and hoping to get rid of it,i started these inside in the middle of february. Its caused from having a very wet and rainy spring,its in the soil and dampness activates it and rain splatters it up on the leaves and infects the plant. Please get a fungicide as it can do great damage or kill the plants.
Once you get it under control,putting some kind of mulch under the plants will help from getting dirt splattered back on to the plant.
 

juco

Veteran Member
Two years ago, a virus showed up in our area that affected the tomatoes and peppers. Can't remember the name, sorry, but it originates in the green houses, carried by thrips, and caused a wilt in the leaves and is contagious. Fungicides did not help this paticular disease (altho this may not be the case for you and would certainly be worth your time to try it) I would suggest pulling the plant as soon as you identify one with the problem and remove it from the garden.

The virus is still going strong around here, this year the peppers seem to be affected the worst.
 

Tweakette

Irrelevant
My guess is septoria leaf spot as well. Is it starting at the bottom and working its way up the plant? And are the spots rather small bulleye-like spots?

Septoria is soil borne and transmitted by the dirt splashing up onto the plant during watering. Like it was said above, it's much worse in wet years.

We have it in our garden too. There are 3 main things you can do to prevent it (can't really cure it once it's there). 1) mulch under the plants as soon as you put them in to keep the dirt from splashing on the lower leaves and infecting them. 2) don't water them from overhead - try to keep the foliage dry and 3) spray them with an antifungal (we're organic, so we use a copper solution thats considered organic). Works ok, but you have to do it every few weeks or so.

The best thing you can do is not put tomatos in infected soil ever again, but most of us don't have the luxury of changing garden locations like that. So we just have to do the best we can with what we've got.

Tweak
 

Amazed

Does too have a life!
earlyblight1.jpg


http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/vegproblems/problems/d_leafspot.html

These are foliar diseases that attack tomatoes, and sometimes potatoes. The fungal pathogen for both the diseases overwinter in infected crop residues. Early blight is caused by the fungus, Alternaria solani, and septoria leaf spot is caused by Septoria lycopersici. They are very common during warm, and humid conditions. Early blight appears mainly on older leaves at the base of the plant as yellow spots which later turns into dark brown spots. It can attack also petioles, stems, and fruits. The attack on the fruit occurs mainly on the calyx end.
The septoria leaf spot symptoms on leaves first appear as water-soaked lesions on the lower leaves eventually developing into leaf spots, which are smaller, and numerous appearing on the upper leaf surfaces.
Control
Commercial growers - rotate tomatoes with other vegetables every three years. Commercial/home gardeners - plant certified disease-free seeds or transplants, and plant disease-resistant tomato cultivars. Improve the fertility of the soil to encourage growth of vigorous plants. Use regular application of copper and other fungicides if recommended in your state.
 

deborah10

Inactive
(Farm) What's wrong with my tomatoes

Thank you all so much. I have determined that it is a fungus from all of your comments and I will mulch again and pull the bad leaves off and put a copper solution on it. The weather has been so perfect this year for gardening in my area, so I want to get all I can out of it. Thanks, once again.
 

cormorant

Contributing Member
Depending on your area, you may need to add a substantial amount of lime to your soil to encourage big, healthy tomatoes. This is best done before planting, in addition to what we may politely term "fertilizer". ;)
 
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