Misc drill bits

Faroe

Un-spun
(Not sure where to put this - Shade Tree Mechanic is specific to cars)

Purchased a set of drill bits for wood working about three weeks ago. LOVED them! Sharp, but they break. I've broken four so far, on a viv build, and this is on small dimensional pine, not even 2X4's. Obviously JUNK, so does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement set? I saved the broken bits - Lowe's owes me some money. Not buying Kobalt brand again!

Bought the set, because all my old bits were uselessly dull. I occasionally break a tiny one, but this was absurd. I broke two new ones in one hour! Grrr....

Thanks!
 

Faroe

Un-spun
I assume the metal is flawed. A couple broke while drilling straight down. I make stuff out of wood all the time, and use pre-drilled holes for screws for most things. Same drill I always use, just new bits. Never had this problem before, even when using old, dry and hard reclaimed 2x6's.

If these bits can't handle new clear pine that is 1X2 and 1X4, I'm calling the set useless.
 

Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
_______________
Avoid TiN (titanium nitride) coated bits...the gold colored ones.

Their hardness is in the coating, you really can't sharpen them.

I've had good luck with DeWalt carbon steel (black) bits, but they are hard to find. Normally you just see their TiN sets.

There are several of these sets floating around in my general use piles. (good price at this link)

A Drill Doctor works for sharpening, but you have to learn how to use it....so does a grinder on the tailgate. :D

The best set I own is from Fastenall. It was around $115 or so. (buy once-cry once)

On jobsites, if anybody grabs that set off my tailgate, I tell them to give me $125 and then they can have the whole thing...but then again, my status as a tool-nazi is well established.

0323441.jpg


29 Piece 1/16" - 1/2" x 1/64" HSS 135° Split Fastenal Jobber Drill Set by Norseman
Fastenal Part No. (SKU)
0323441
UNSPSC
23241606
Manufacturer
FASTENAL
This is a Catalog Item
Wholesale:$208.77 / each
Online Price:$172.02 / each


Wowwwww

They've gone up.
 

Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
_______________
Drill bits are not something I skimp on price wise, I buy mine at the local machine shop, they also sell wood working tools.

I have a few crap sets, bought on clearance or when I was in a bind somewhere.

Several, intermediate grade sets...like the DeWalt black oxide.

1, 115 bit machinist set, chicom built. Wire, letter and decimal sizes. It's slowly getting refilled with good bits. It stays on the toolbox between the mill & lathe. Only gets used on those two machines.

81jcBqdAqdL._AC_SS450_.jpg



Different tools for different jobs.
 

Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
_______________
@Faroe when drilling softer material (wood & aluminum especially), you have to work at keeping the bit from diving in.

I often run the bit fast, but have to hold it back so it doesn't dig in and snap.

Drilling is all about speed & feed pressure.

Just one of those things you learn by breaking bits.

Figure out what you were doing when it broke...then try something different.
 
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hiwall

Has No Life - Lives on TB
I used to use Hanson drill bits years ago. They might be junk now.
Many years ago I happened to be at a few yard sales that had large amounts of new drill bits. Two were retired or expired machinists and the other was a model ship builder's estate. I still have many packages of new bits in many sizes. Except for letter drills. I only have extras of fractional and number drills(I do have a set of letter drills of course).
 

Illini Warrior

Illini Warrior
not even prepper logic - you need to get yourself a drill sharpener - you don't toss drill bits until you can't chuck them up anymore - even the cheapie DIY sharpening gear works to a degree - freehand on a wheel takes a steady hand and a little practice ...
 

Jackpine Savage

Veteran Member
My DW bought some watering doohickeys for her quail and needs to tap some 1/8 NPT threads into PVC. I actually had the tap in a set I bought recently. Then I looked and the tap calls for an 'R' drill bit. I have the numbered drill bits (rifle gas ports :D) but don't have a lettered set. So I'm off looking for those.

Then my DW said she never heard of numbered and lettered drill bits and I had to find the answer to how the heck they came about too. Something to do with wire gauge sizes in the 1800's.
 

lanningro

Veteran Member
First buy a Drill Doctor to sharpen your bits. Garage, estate sales are your best source for quality tooling. 50 year old set of Craftsman and Irwin drill bits. Old Nicholson files is where the quality is. They are great blanks for making knives too. I have a South Bend lathe in my shop 13X72 inch. Made in 1956 it weighs 2150 pounds. A new "import lathe" of the same capacity? about 1000 pounds.
 

cowboy

Veteran Member
A simple formula for figuring cutting speeds is " surface speed * 4 / dia = RPM ".

Most surface speeds for a high speed tool is like 100 for mild steel/wood down to 45 for stainless steel.

These speeds can only be run if you have the proper chip load, Real doubtful with a hand drill. The chip load is what cuts, or rubs the tool dull. Slowing down rpm is the only way to counter this rubbing into cutting action. Also why drilling several size holes allows for chip load to be maintained.

Wood is often punched, not drilled with smaller bits the way it is pushed into work.

Flex in the bit is the most likely cause of breaking as well as chip build up not clearing the drill. Yes some cheap bits are more brittle than others but anything below 1/8 is highly likely to some extent.

Dull anything as far as a cutting tool is a no no.
 

buttie

Veteran Member
I have a set of Irwin Cobalt drills that are great. Real cobalt not just the name. Nothing fancy is needed to sharpen drills over 1/4". Just takes some practice. Which reminds me of a story. I was working in Oklahoma City installing a winch in a city van and needed to drill through some 3/8" aluminum plate. The drill they gave me was so dull it would cut better in reverse. I asked if they had a grinder and the shop guy said what are you going to do? I said sharpen the drill, he said you can't do that. As I headed over to the grinder a crowd was starting to gather. By the time I was back at the winch a bigger crowed had gathered. (I guess it was a slow day) When I started drilling and 2 nice curly cues of metal started to rise up out of the hole they were amazed. Someone offered me a job! I didn't take it.
 

Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
_______________
Learned to sharpen bits on a grinder with an old-school gauge.

Maintains symmetry and desired angle.

1623794918706.jpeg


Except, we had to make out own gauge in class. :D


Hand ground toolbits for thread cutting with a fishtail.

OIP.OKCbBq_rl1M68pvKswDnoAHaHa
 
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cowboy

Veteran Member
A protractor of a combination square makes a fair substitute if you get the right scale where you want it.

If you are with out a drill and tap chart, you can take the inverse of the thread and subtract from tap size to get drill size.

The first time I learned to circle interpulate enternal threads was a trip. CNC has so many tools any more that making any forming tool is a lost art for the most part.
 

Orion Commander

Veteran Member
Project Farm on YouTube does testing on which tool. He did drill bits. Sets under $40. Most were under $25. Bosch was $39.99.

I think DeWalt came out as pretty good for the money. I was in the machine supply store today. 3/32 and 7/64 bits are just under $18/ dozen. Morse bits seem good.

The angle a bit is sharpened will be different if for metal or wood.
 

hiwall

Has No Life - Lives on TB
Note: If you are doing fine work, resharpened bits often drill slightly over-size holes.
 
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