Misc Autumn Stitching Chat - 2020

[packyderms_wife]

Hello fellow stitchers... welcome to the Autumn 2020 Stitching Chat Thread. This thread will go through the end of November, 2020.

Here you can share what you are stitching, planning to stitch, spinning, weaving, knitting, quilting, etc. I myself am making some copper jewelry for myself this afternoon. If you have photos of your current projects please share those as well.

 

[Melodi]

I finally finished the socks for the client in Spain just now and cast on a sock for me just to have as a working project in the background.

Our power is back on upstairs but I've already moved most of the things that I need right away back down to my old office (now powered by a heavy-duty electrical chord.

The internet is a lot better down here so I may start spending a lot more time down here again now that the TV/modem is functional and the sofa is more comfortable for knitting, though my work table is better for warping the loom.

I'll get a photo of the socks later, meanwhile here's a weaving picture of my most recent project, it was supposed to be a for a bag but Nightwolf thinks it looks "too good" for that (he wants a bag to carry his new leatherman tool around in the yard) so this one will be set aside to go on a dress tunic or something.

I'll put on the second one for his bag, either this evening or tomorrow.

 

[Faroe]

That is beautiful! Are you using cotton or wool? Traditional pattern, or did you chart it yourself?
I really need to get the inkle out from under the pile of knitting needles, and yarn.

Finally decided on a stitch pattern for the main body of the new sweater...(I think). It can tear out down to a row of plain stockinette above garter, if I end up hateing (sp?) it. Went VERY safe and conservative on this one. Again, couldn't find anything I wanted to lift straight off a gansey chart, so made one up myself. There are other patterns that are more striking, but wanted a non-tedious fairly quick knit. This is a deep inky blue-black yarn firmly knitted into a small gage - at at certain point, mistake-prone motifs are just best avoided altogether. Also, wanted a flatish overall design that would not sinch up like an accordion with alternating knit and pearl columns. Cables draw in too, and can make the bottom hem spring out. About four inches of knitting so far; progress should be faster from here now that the tentative decision has been made.

It's only yarn. I can knit another if I end up disliking it as much as the one recently finished. THAT gansey will probably get slashed down the front for an (at this point) very home-made looking cardigan. Will require steeking through the front tree motif, but I might actually wear it that way (at home only). Took considerable pains with measurement and calculations to get the neck comfortably low enough. It is correct as is, but I can't stand to have the wool neckband anywhere near my neck, and planned for it to be another inch-plus lower. It seems to pull up a bit anyway - maybe should have put some short-rows in the back, but that is certainly not typical gansey construction - they should fit just fine w/o that.

Ordered a cone of Brown Sheep in fingering wt., charcoal grey. IIRC, 2,800 yards, so in theory, should only need one cone. Looking forward to it's arrival. I needed two cones for the last two ganseys in Frangipani. At $60 something a cone, 500g only yields 1,200 yards (IIRC). Love Frangi, it is a densely twisted high quality worsted, but the sweaters are heavy as armor. The Brown Sheep wool will knit up into a very different garment, at considerably less cost.

 

[Melodi]

Some information on the bands I've posted - the most recent one is Cotto-lin a mix of cotton and linen yarn from Sweden - pure linen yarn (modern stuff) is made with lots of tiny chopped up pieces of plant and stretches so badly it is nearly impossible to work with by itself (traditional linen had long fibers and was much easier to use).

But Cotto-lin looks like linen and is washable, doesn't shrink, and is quite forgiving under high tension weaving which this is.

About 15 years ago I did one project (a massive project) using this technique for our Celtic Knotwork trim and belts and I totally burned out on it - that time I used wool, but strong (thin) wool intended for knitting machines.

I tried to do a piece of pick-up band weaving in thicker wool a few days ago and had to cut it off the loom as it was a disaster - it probably would have been OK as tablet weaving, but as inkle weaving it just caught constantly and I could tell it was going to look terrible - I may knit a hat or something out the "warp."

The book I used was:
Weaving Patterned Bands by Susan J. Foulkes, I can't recommend this book enough - she took a process I had found confusing and frustrating (even using early youtube videos) and made it easy and enjoyable.

I also got the other book on Band Weaving which has more historical information and patterns but isn't nearly as easy to read and use - so I'll be using designs from it (and the web) when I am more comfortable, but right now I'm having fun just being a "blind followers" as "Saint" Elizabeth Zimmerman would say about knitting instructions.

The exception is I am already playing with color, which is how that last piece ended up looking so "posh" by accident - it really is a rather simple design but the colors make it look like something a princess would wear (or at least a well-practiced 19th century Scandinavian Housewife with a good market for dyed yarns nearby).

While this technique doesn't seem to have been used a lot in SCA "period" (per 1600) in its modern form in fact 1600 is about when it shows up - it was used occasionally that we know of - at least one piece was found in the Osaburg Ship Burial (along with our one giant tapestry from the period) and another I think was also found somewhere else in Europe - which is all I need to show that it WAS done, though tablet weaving was more popular and both are still used in folk costumes to this day.

The Sami were and are especially fond of band weaving, the one belt I made about 10 to 15 years ago was mostly Sami Patterns that I got off the net, that site doesn't seem to be around any longer though.

 

[Melodi]

Well, he now understands why I asked him if he was sure he wanted yellow/gold and not black in the center of this one - he couldn't visualize it well and when he saw it he said "It should have black in the center of the design" (men ya gotta love um) So I'm running out of White but I'll probably make a second piece for at least part of the bag in red/black/gold/grey but this one first.

Baron Tiger Von Tripod was my assistant this afternoon....

 

[Faroe]

I have that Foulks book, and another of hers on weaving the utilitarian tapes that were common up until about a hundred plus years ago. I have also had problems with yarn getting fuzzy at the heddles, and dragging the shed closed. Like everything else...experience and practice, I guess.

Lovely kitty.

ETA: I unravelled the new sweater down to the ribbing. Just didn't like a few things, and the issues were that far down. The experts all insist on swatching, but swatches generally don't identify the problems I run into. Tomorrow is another day...I am DONE with this for now!

 

[Melodi]

The Cat Socks boxed up now and ready to send to Spain before the Winter sets in, one turned out slightly larger than the other but that seems to be OK, but now I know that not all that wool was really the same size (it was on-sale).

 

[summerthyme]

Very cool, Melodi! I doubt the size difference will be noticeable when worn, but you can always tell them to wear the larger sock on their bigger foot (almost everyone has one foot slightly larger thsn the other!) LOL!

I really like the texture pattern... it looks like waffle knit.

Summerthyme

 

[Melodi]

This is becoming my go-to sock pattern stitch because it is still pretty easy to knit and it helps the socks fit better, and because it uses slightly more yarn, is more forgiving if the "superwash" wool gets thrown in the dryer or the regular wool in a regular wash cycle.

I'm really tired of throwing out socks that shrink too much, this pattern can felt a bit still be wearable - I mean nothing is going to be the same if it was thrown in with the sheets on super-hot (not made of wool anyway) but between the super-wash when I can it (which this isn't by the way) and the more forgiving pattern, the socks are lasting longer before becoming cat toys or garden fill.

That basic pattern is:

2 rows K all
2 rows K3 Pearl 1

That's it, other variations are

K2 P2 (twice)
P2 K2 (twice)

K2P2 (twice)
K All (twice)

Spiral where you move the K2 P2 (or K3 P3 over a row every three rows (to create a spiral pattern - these can be knit without heals and are great for "bed socks") there is a pattern in Knitting in the Nordic Tradition for over-the-knee socks made this way.

All of these patterns (and cables) can be reduced down the back and since my husband really only likes knee socks or almost that long and I prefer them, I'm almost always doing them.

I've experimented with different ways depending on the pattern, mostly I just wing it.

Oh and I started doing patterned colorwork at the top of socks followed by the k P patterns/ribbing on the leg and foot after realizing that a lot of "Traditional" German, Dutch and Scandinavian socks seemed to be made that way.

Especially when making heavier over-socks for boots or cold days, I found that the color-pattern at the top pulls in the top of the sock under the knee and makes it easier to stay up (even without a garter to some degree) and then the ribbing patterns down the leg help it all stick on and fit securely on the leg but with a "give factor" important when skiing or gathering Winter-fire wood.

 

[Faroe]

Been busy with other tasks, but am almost back to where I ripped out the knitting on the sweater. Much better, now.

Posted the Allure of the North video on the GSM thread. Been watching a lot of that sort of thing, and general back country camping type videos. People make heavy wool anoraks out of old wool blankets - nice change from all the commercial emph. on pricey consumer goods. I recently sold an older Filson jacket that was given to me (don't like the fit at all, and I've never worn it). Spent that money on a Silkie folding camp saw, and then went shopping on e-bay for wool shirts. Spent $30 on a vintage 1960's 100% wool Woolrich shirt. Found an inexpensive vintage 100% wool blanket that has seen some better days, and plan to add some patchwork with felted wool. If I decide to do an anorak, it'll be heavily trimmed with folksy colorful patchwork.

E-bay can be fun.

ETA:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WJLAJKcHiA
here is an 18 min video of a hand made blanket anorak. This guy is a leatherworker, and did a bang-up job on his - lots of features. Most of them are simpler, but I posted this one, because there are so many good ideas one might take from it.

 

[Seeker22]

Been busy with other tasks, but am almost back to where I ripped out the knitting on the sweater. Much better, now.

Posted the Allure of the North video on the GSM thread. Been watching a lot of that sort of thing, and general back country camping type videos. People make heavy wool anoraks out of old wool blankets - nice change from all the commercial emph. on pricey consumer goods. I recently sold an older Filson jacket that was given to me (don't like the fit at all, and I've never worn it). Spent that money on a Silkie folding camp saw, and then went shopping on e-bay for wool shirts. Spent $30 on a vintage 1960's 100% wool Woolrich shirt. Found an inexpensive vintage 100% wool blanket that has seen some better days, and plan to add some patchwork with felted wool. If I decide to do an anorak, it'll be heavily trimmed with folksy colorful patchwork.

E-bay can be fun.

ETA:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WJLAJKcHiA
here is an 18 min video of a hand made blanket anorak. This guy is a leatherworker, and did a bang-up job on his - lots of features. Most of them are simpler, but I posted this one, because there are so many good ideas one might take from it.

Thanks for posting this. Ebay is fun. If you can find an open Thrift shop in these troubled times, they are a good source for wool too. Blankets, coats, even a dress now and again. I found DH a red plaid thick wool coat at Thrift for $5. Woolrich brand looked to be from 1950s in perfect condition. There were similar ones (vintage) on Ebay for $300. I love it when people give stuff away for a song. I'll definitely watch more of these vids.

Does anyone have a source for real Oil Cloth? I want to sew something large and can't find any.

 

[Faroe]

Thanks for posting this. Ebay is fun. If you can find an open Thrift shop in these troubled times, they are a good source for wool too. Blankets, coats, even a dress now and again. I found DH a red plaid thick wool coat at Thrift for $5. Woolrich brand looked to be from 1950s in perfect condition. There were similar ones (vintage) on Ebay for $300. I love it when people give stuff away for a song. I'll definitely watch more of these vids.

Does anyone have a source for real Oil Cloth? I want to sew something large and can't find any.

Tent Smiths makes oil cloth tarps. They also make tents for re-enacting, so it should be more or less *real,* but they come with a hefty price tag +/- $180? for an 8'x8'. Deer Creek Outfitters reportedly has them too.

There are various recipes for DIY oil cloth on line, so it depends on what you want - people are oiling everything from bed sheets to 10 oz duck canvas for tarps. Melted paraffin itself will work to some extent. Paint it on, then use a hot iron with newspapers beneath and above to absorb the extra wax. The video from Townsend and Sons (sp.?) demonstrates a traditional recipe from the 18th century consisting of Boiled linseed oil with turpentine, and a powdered iron based dye to further fill in the weave. For modern applications, some people use bee's wax rather than paraffin in a 2 parts wax, 1 part turpentine, and 1 part linseed oil mix. There is a product called Otter Skin - or something like that - that you can buy today, and just heat over a stove.

Careful! The contents of these pots as well as the application brushes, rags, and drying project itself are all flammable. I'm not clear on the safety of these fabrics after they have completely dried and cured (can take a week or more for the historical mixture), Used to think they were safe once dry, not sure now. I was interested in them as an alternative to plastic tarps in any scenario where there might be sparks flying.

The above are from my notes - was researching this very thing several days ago. Endless YouTube videos on the topic.

 

[packyderms_wife]

Just popping in to see how everyone is doing. Found a Prairie Star quilt square when I was looking for something else in my studio in some bodacious 1970's patterned fabrics I'm thinking of beading out. What's everyone else working on?

And by beading out I'm talking completely encrusting the surface with beads, all hand stitched.

 

[Melodi]

Partway through a sort of ski sweater type sweater and a pair of socks, no weaving for a few weeks but I think I should be able to get back to it soon; I've learned my lesson on pushing my shoulder further than it wants to go.

 

[Faroe]

Baltic pick-up vs. tablet weaving:

Holy cow, get yourself a pack of tablets! Have had a few simple successful belts with Baltic pick-up, but complicated patterns make me cross-eyed, confused, and the mistake riddled piece progresses very slowly. Simply can't keep the threads straight. Warping for that is also high stress.

I found this YouTube:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooNOYUtc2ek

Tablet Weaving for the Absolute Beginner. Elewyse gives some history, and the technique. Her Medieval garb is also a nice touch. 40 min. I warped according the pattern, and have been just advancing the cards without the pattern, since the simple chevron this makes is lovely too. It couldn't be easier.

 

[Faroe]

Finished the tablet band, looks good, but pulls in on the picks where the the warp twist required a change in direction. Need to work on that problem some more. What I do like is that the tablets do almost all of your thinking for you. I lost all sense of time weaving this belt.

Checked Anne Dixon's classic inkle book, and am going to re-visit Baltic style in some simpler variations. I still love the Eastern European designs the best. So...Gulp! Spent $60 on another book, and it is written in Estonian. (Hope the charts are in a translatable format.) Could only locate two copies of this, and was just getting the sense that...either order it, or forget about it for good. The other coveted Lithuanian book that band weavers (IIRC Susan Foulkes?) have referenced, is selling at $150.

Had previously planned to spend this month's budgeted amt on leather working tools. I have a nice old carving hatchet from eBay that needs a leather sheath. Paired down the leather supplies order to just a kit of rivets and some artificial sinew. That'll have to suffice for now.

 

[Faroe]

The Estonian book arrived from Estonia, and is actually in English. Flat out gorgeous. Amazing.

Been working on a Baltic p/u pattern on and off since the first week of Nov. Tablet weaving is MUCH faster, but I do really like this particular design. So far, beautiful, but I will be releaved when it is done, and I can re-warp for a quicker tablet pattern.

Wasn't planning to work on it this evening, started out carving a spoon from some new bass wood that arrived, promptly sliced my thumb, and it would NOT stop bleeding. Ha, it's just a slice, no biggie, just keep going... The Mora handle is all red, the carved chips are all red, my shirt is all red, and given that the soft bass wood is porous, I may end with a red spoon. My first spoon - probably wasn't destined to be a masterpiece anyway.

The Moras come with not-so-nice hard plastic sheaths, and the inexpensive Beaver chip carvers just have a folded plastic cover. Need to go through the scrap leather stash, and sew some better sheaths.

 

[packyderms_wife]

The Estonian book arrived from Estonia, and is actually in English. Flat out gorgeous. Amazing.

Been working on a Baltic p/u pattern on and off since the first week of Nov. Tablet weaving is MUCH faster, but I do really like this particular design. So far, beautiful, but I will be releaved when it is done, and I can re-warp for a quicker tablet pattern.

Wasn't planning to work on it this evening, started out carving a spoon from some new bass wood that arrived, promptly sliced my thumb, and it would NOT stop bleeding. Ha, it's just a slice, no biggie, just keep going... The Mora handle is all red, the carved chips are all red, my shirt is all red, and given that the soft bass wood is porous, I may end with a red spoon. My first spoon - probably wasn't destined to be a masterpiece anyway.

The Moras come with not-so-nice hard plastic sheaths, and the inexpensive Beaver chip carvers just have a folded plastic cover. Need to go through the scrap leather stash, and sew some better sheaths.

which mora knives did you get and from where? Sorry to hear about your thumb, you may want to buy those gloves for cutting stuff up in the kitchen.

 

[Faroe]

which mora knives did you get and from where? Sorry to hear about your thumb, you may want to buy those gloves for cutting stuff up in the kitchen.

Amazon. I ordered the 106, and the 120 in Mora. These are longer sloyd shaped blades (esp. the 106) Spoon carvers like them for shaving off long wood peels. Neither is really a detail knife. Also have a bent gouge (for kuksas - nordic wooden bowls) and a spoon knife for the bowl of the spoon. The Beaver knives are the chip carvers C3 and C6. If you look up "chip carving" you find some intricate geometric surface detailing (reminds me of textured knitting). I also have a tiny kolrosing knife from Pine Valley Forge in MN, and another of theirs (detail knife) on the way.

The Beaver Crafts get mixed reviews, but I didn't want to spend a lot of money initially. Haven't tried mine yet. Drake, and Lyons get good reviews, but I can't find Lyons anywhere (more than one knife maker with that name - look for wood carving). The Alaska Woodchuck YouTuber likes these two brands along with PVF, and also Would Bee Carver (something like that - last name Metzer??). This guy is featuring intricate detail work with itty-bitty schmitar shaped detail blades. The Woodchuck guy also insists one should carve with a glove, and suggests Hubbard (?) as the best protective brand.

Made some more progress on the spoon - it has shaped up to vaguely look like a spoon. Had to put it away when the slice opened up once more, and I started bleeding all over it again. Tonight is more weaving.

 

[Faroe]

Budget leatherworking (or what to do when you spent all your money on knives, but need some sheathes).

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5wroqfIiGQ


Can you make a leather wallet without tools? This title is the summary for this 11+ min silent YT.
Scissors, sand paper, fork, nail, two needles, lighter, and synthetic thread.