Nov 28 - Day 77: Madrid
Holy smokes today was much better than what was originally planned. Most of the group members said it topped off their trip in a fantastic way. We go our separate ways after tonight. And that started with breakfast. No pastry and tea at this place. Nope, a full English breakfast or the “American Buffet”, you had to pick. The buffet looked too good to pass up so that’s what our family did though I did offer to get Sadie the other. She looked at me and tried not to laugh. “It’s fine Aunt Gus. I didn’t grow up eating that way. It was usually just porridge or toast for breakfast.”
I made a face that finally let her laugh. Not because it was funny but because she obviously thought my “worrying” was … Gawd help me … cute. And nice. Nice I could handle. Cute made me want to find a potted palm to hide behind.
But in all honesty, I was glad we ate as well as we did because man did we hustle through the day. And it turned out we didn’t need a transfer. We started our walking tour right from the hotel and away we went.
First real stop of the day, though our local guide had talked nearly non-stop between the hotel and it, was the Palacio Real (Royal Palace of Madrid). Touring it felt like we were back in the Louvre. There were paintings, frescoes, porcelains, silverware, furniture, and I can’t remember what all on every surface in the place. As an example that even I could wrap my head around, was the only complete set of Stradivarius string quintet instruments in the world.
The original palace was commissioned in the 9th-century. It was a wooden Moorish fortress that was lost to a devastating fire in 1734. It was then reimagined as a type of Versailles and built of stone and granite. The palace was finally ready for use in 1764. The exterior isn’t exactly plain, but compared to the interior it isn’t nearly as flamboyance. The interior more than makes that statement with marble floors, frescoes, and golden furnishings. What got the monarchy in trouble though was that Spain was in declining status at the time. I mean it more than just irritated the common people with things like the Gasparini Room that has silver silk-embroidered walls and an intricate marble mosaic floor. Beyond the main palace, there was the Royal Armory, home to one of the world’s finest collections of historic weapons and armor. There is also an 18th-century pharmacy resembling a laboratory and the Painting Gallery, with works by Caravaggio, Velázquez, and Goya.
My eyes and brain were still trying to catch up with the rest of me when we went to the Almudena Cathedral, a project centuries in the making, finally opened in 1993 after a history marked by financial difficulties and Civil War bombing. Its was planned in the 1940s, Near the main entrance, a small museum showcases some of the cathedral’s treasures, but the best fun was climbing to the dome. Lev got some amazing shots of there; wide sweeping views of Madrid as our guide said. On the opposite end of the building, the huge crypt had colorful stained-glass windows and the figure of the Virgin of the Almudena which made it both quiet and tranquil, definitely not creepy as some of those things we’ve been in felt. Across the street our guide showed us walls built by the Moors in the 9th century and the Christians in the 12th that are now part of a park.
We used the park to walk through to reach Town Hall Square. Main Street runs through it and on all sides are historical buildings. Dominating the square is Casa de la Villa, or the old Town Hall. It’s been around since 1696. Like the church it has beautiful stained glass windows and frescoes. There’s a tower across from the town hall that is one of the oldest structures in the city. Dating back to the early 15th century, the tower has an intriguing legend. Following the Battle of Pavia in 1525, King Charles I reportedly imprisoned France’s King Francis I in this very place. The French monarch, refusing to bow to his captor, was forced to use a lowered entrance, thus “bowing” each time he entered or exited. I guess if you can’t force your enemy one way, you’ll do it another.
It was time for a break and we took ours at the Saint Michael’s Market which is the last surviving iron marketplace. Originally built in 1915, it is a single-level structure, encased in glass, and has served as a traditional neighborhood market for nearly a century. It had become a rundown until a renovation in 2009 put it back on the map as a place to go and be seen. The site that it was built on originally belonged to a church demolished in 1810 on orders of Joseph Bonaparte. Despite our large breakfast, I was drooling as we walked the aisles. Oh my goodness, wall-to-wall food stalls that had a little bit of everything; from fresh fruit, to cheese, to cured meats, to bakeries, to seafood of all different varities. There were candies, from luxury to corner drugstore type. There were juice and smoothie bars, coffee bars, tea of all different kind. The dried fruit mixtures and spice vendors made me very, very nervous. Why? Because the hamster wanted my wallet and it wanted it right then and there.
“C’mon Babe, we’re going to be sending a big box to the Drop Point tomorrow. What’s it gonna hurt to send a few luxuries back at the same time. You know you had fun at that other market.” Ooooo, it was like have temptation itself whispering in my ear. So, while Lev took Benny and went outside to take photos of the fallen angel statue—“Accidente Aereo”—above the main entrance, Sadie and I did a bit of shopping. She took care of the chocolate and “luxury sweets” and I paid attention to the dried fruit and seasonings.
I also fell victim to several of the food vendors … Ham & Chips which sold artisan chips, fried in extra virgin olive oil, and topped with shavings of 100% Carrasco Bellota ham served in paper sacks was my first such purchase. Another stand served canned seafood and it reminded me of the insane purchase we had made for the group in Alaska. I picked up a couple cans of various things knowing that Lev would love it even if I did wince at the euros involved. I had to be careful that stuff would make it through customs but managed to find Iberian acorn-fed ham slices packaged and stamped for just that purpose. There was a bakery that had gluten free goodies that I didn’t say no to (and I’m glad I didn’t when I saw Lev and Benny’s faces). A green grocer had fresh fruit smoothies that I watched them make … no gluten type thickeners used so I didn’t feel guilty (okay, maybe a little). There was an artisan cheese vendor that had properly packaged and stamped cheese that Sadie and I both eyed like sharks on the hunt.
I stuffed everything but the chips-and-ham and bakery box into my backpack and we hurried to meet at the designated time at the entrance. Lev frowned until he realized I’d hidden everything from view and then he and Benny joined Sadie and I scarfing up the weird combo of chips, ham, and bakery sweets to go with the fruit smoothies. Good thing we started walking Calle Mayor (High Street) because I was feeling a little jittery, both from spending more money than normal and from the excess of sugar and carbs.
On the northern side of the Town Square lies Calle Mayor, or High Street—one of Madrid’s most historic thoroughfares. It was once the pathway for religious processions between the Royal Palace and the Monastery of Los Jerónimos, it also served as a hub for silversmiths and jewelers. The street is lined with a mix of traditional taverns, modern shops, and trendy restaurants. The street has also seen plenty of notable historic events. At No. 88 is the location of an infamous assassination attempt in 1906. From the top balcony of this building, an anarchist threw a bomb at then King Alfonso XIII and his bride during a royal procession. Although the blast tragically claimed several innocent lives, the royal couple escaped unharmed. Today, a monument stands across from the building, commemorating the victims. At No. 48 is were the man who wrote Don Quixote was born.
Calle Mayor continued toward our next stop, the Gate of the Sun, one of Madrid’s most popular gathering places. Historically, it marked the city’s original eastern entrance, where a gatehouse and castle once stood. Over the centuries, these structures gave way to churches, and in the late 19th century, the area transformed into a square, becoming a hub of café culture and social activity. Shaped like a half-moon, the area features a modern glass train station, a couple of government buildings, and a clocktower build in 1866. The Gate of the Sun itself has witnessed significant historical drama. On May 2, 1808, the Spanish uprising against French occupation began here. In 1912, a Prime Minister was assassinated in the square, and in 1931, the proclamation of the Second Republic was made there.
Another section of walking that we did was The Gran Vía, or “Great Way,” which the guide said represents Madrid’s leap into modernity at the turn of the 20th century. Built in stages during an era of economic prosperity, thanks in part to Spain’s neutrality in World War I, it became the city’s commercial lifeline, separating the historic southern neighborhoods from the newer districts to the north. Today, this boulevard is alive with traffic and shopping, and a mess of different architectural styles—from sleek Modernist designs to ornate Neo-Rococo facades. The most eye-catching section is the earliest, completed between 1910 and 1924.
And speaking of eye catching, our next stop was the Palacio de Cibeles (Cibeles Palace). Originally designed to be a headquarters for Spain’s postal and telegraph service, I swear it looks more like a castle of some type. People often compare it to a wedding cake. In 2011, the addition of a shimmering glass dome to the central courtyard took its design to the next level. Just outside the main entrance, you can still spot a set of traditional brass letterboxes in the wall, each labeled with the names of various Spanish cities and provinces. It now serves as home to Madrid’s mayor and City Council. The guide (who had a connection in the form of a cousin) had a surprise for us at this point. One of the main draws to the building is the Mirador Madrid, a rooftop observation deck that offers a panorama of the city. The guide earned his tips from that alone. He also took us to the sixth-floor café-restaurant so everyone could get a drink while enjoying the scenery.
From there we passed through Puerta de Alcala (Alcala Gate), a city landmark that once marked the eastern boundary, and then towards and into Parque del Retiro (Retiro Park). The park didn’t start out to be a park but as a royal escape hatch, a place to runaway and relax when the job got too stressful. King Felipe IV’s of the early 1600s to be exact. There was a palace and gardens. Most of all the original buildings are gone except for a few that are used as public venues. What remains is about 15,000 trees in the park’s 330 acres. There are also now jogging, rollerblading, and cycling paths. The guide said that on Sundays,
half of Madrid seems to drift there, to exercise, to walk, to see and be seen. There’s music pavilions for concerts. The Velázquez Palace hosts art exhibitions that never charge a cent. There’s plenty of spots for picnicking as well.
The guide cut us loose after agreeing to take most of the group back to the hotel, after being paid for his time in tips, and from the look of happiness on his face it was a good day for him. Lev wanted to take advantage of the remaining light. It didn’t take long and then we headed back as well.
~~~~~
Spent this evening packing or donating what we wouldn’t need on the next Assignment and getting help from the Concierge to mail them back to Jacksonville to Pei’s garage for storage. I’ve asked her several times if it is a problem and all she can do is laugh because it is like constant birthdays. Lev and I always include something in the package for her and the exotic postmarks on the boxes are always good for conversations. People think we are some kind of media stars. I tell her she’s nuts, but she gets a kick out of it. Townzen is getting no small amount of business from referrals. And Taylor, Pei’s sister-in-law that I met on the first adventure with Benny, was able to get her business back up and running after they decided to leave the West Coast and move to Tallahassee.
“You don’t mind?” I asked Lev.
His answer was a question of his own. “Why should I mind? Connections are what make the world go ‘round. I know those people helped you when you needed it. This time you get to repay them.” He shrugged and I hugged him from behind. Thank the Creator that Lev isn’t territorial.
And also thank the Creator that Sadie is understanding. “I know you are upset.”
She shrugged. “I expected it.”
“Expecting something is different than …”
Trying not to act upset despite me knowing she was Sadie said, “Gus, I get it. Grandfather isn’t a bad guy. He’s not even really as cold as he seems from the outside. He is still taking an interest in me and all that. He just wants to do it on his terms. You’ll send quarterly reports to him through Mr. Dutton who will handle any details that need handling.”
I sighed. “Pretty much. But it is still okay to be upset even if you are mature enough to understand.”
She looked at me and then her bottom lip quivered. “My brothers didn’t even say goodbye. I thought they would at least text or something.”
Trying to come up with something I hesitantly said, “Maybe they …”
“They what?”
I gave a careful shrug. “I’m no expert but I’ve wondered if the life they grew up in affected them and made them a little insecure … at least where you are concerned. They sound like your grandfather. Like they want to do what’s right for you, but on their terms so they aren’t the ones getting hurt. Guys can be all kinds of insecure because of what the females in their lives do to them, even if it is unintentional.”
I’d given her something to grasp at, and she was soon helping me to pack or donate her own clothes. Some of her tops no longer fit correctly so those were donated. Hopefully her bras can work for a little longer. She still had a few tops that worked, and all her bottoms still fit despite the curves that she is finally developing. I doubt she’ll ever be “full figured” but it hasn’t hurt me any not to have to lug around a couple of size C or D boulders, and I don’t even know if I’d have a clue what to do with anything bigger than what I already have. And now that I’m more in control of what and when I eat, as well as my exercise routine, my beach ball butt is back under control which my clothes are really grateful for.
Most of Benny’s clothes were keepers because I’d gotten them with growing room. Lev and I kept out a couple of outfits as well. The remainder was boxed up to go in one direction or another.
All our liquid hygiene items would have to be left behind except for some travel sizes. Those would get used over the next couple of days and would hopefully last until we get to Buenos Aires … you read that correctly.
It is going to be a two-step trip to get from where we are to the ship that will take us to Antarctica. I’ll explain that part later after I go over my lists one more time and do something with Benny. He is getting wound up. Something triggered him thinking about the Crew that is still in “stasis” at the River House. I think it may have been when Sadie wondered about her own “friends” and whether she should send them to the drop point. I think Benny is reaching that “stage” Pei told me he might struggle with. Leaving his “young” self and stepping into his pre-teen self with all the hormonal swings and what all. Oh Lord, save me. I vaguely recall everyone threatening to put me in the deep freeze until I turned twenty-one … or in some cases forty-two … and similar comments like that. I remember one particularly difficult day that Dad threatened to put a harness on me so I could pull his semi. He’d at least get some fuel savings out of the way I was acting. On the other hand, Lev seems to be on top of that part better than I am. I was upset about it, but Lev said that it was a “guy thing.” Geez, I hope one of us can come up with some coping mechanisms because Benny is just about to turn the hamster into Godzilla. Lev says we are feeding off each other. Sigh. I’m the adult in that equation so I need to do my own coping.
Lev is doing his own packing and making Benny do his. As many times as necessary to make sure it is done correctly. I just heard him tell Benny, “I know Aunt Gus has always done it her way. But since you are joining the ranks of the older kids you need to start helping out more. Besides, if you pack your stuff, do it neatly, you’ll know where everything is when you need it. You can’t tell me that being ten years old and having your aunt have to find you some clean underwear isn’t getting a bit embarrassing.”
I hadn’t even thought about that. I have got to stop treating Benny like he is a baby. I’m doing neither of us any favors by trying to over help. I’m going to go distract myself and try and finish what I need to finish, I’ll relieve Lev in a bit and try to come up with something to calm Benny down. I really don’t want to resort to chamomile tea this late at night. I’ll probably attempt to find something to create a carb crash … maybe a small bowl of ice cream from room service. I hate wasting the money, especially after what I already spent today, but I don’t need him to be hollow-eyed and hollowed out tomorrow. It is going to be a long day.
This gave me something else to read today and I am grateful.
