Story Aunt Gus and Crew's Adventure Book 5 [COMPLETE]
- Thread starter Kathy in FL
- Start date
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Thank you for all the chapters.
Nov 17 - Day 66: Travel from Rome, Italy to Porto, Portugal
Another early flight and though this one was a little longer than your average puddle jumper, three hours still passed quickly. We were on our own to get from the airport to the hotel and I’ll be honest, it was easier to converse in English than it was in Spanish. People who speak Portuguese tend to not use Spanish and vice versa. Kinda weird but that’s what we were told by the transfer driver provided by the hotel from the InterContinental Porto.
We were in even before check in time but got lucky that they gave us our rooms early. They booked us into two Classic Rooms with a connecting door. There wasn’t a sitting area but that was no big deal for us as there was a desk and chair that Lev could use while I sat on the king-size bed. The kids shared the other room that had twin beds. We decided to take advantage of some down time before the tour group was to meet at 6 pm. Lev got some editing done, the kids got some down time and time for their own projects. I did some laundry at a laundromat around the corner from the hotel. I met a nice older woman there who spoke English, and she taught me how everything worked. It wasn’t rocket science, but it was definitely different. You washed and dried in the same unit. Just toss stuff in and set it to go and when the cycle was over everything was done except for the folding.
The hotel is also known as Palacio das Cardosas, an 18th-century palace located in what is now the heart of the city. Definitely on the renovated end of the scale but still classy without being overwhelmingly “antique”. Dinner was at the on-site restaurant. Benny and Sadie both had the grilled chicken. I had grilled salmon, and Lev decided to live adventurously and had wild boar loin with chestnut purée. I tried to encourage Sadie to eat a little more, but she begged off and whispered that her hormones had her stomach a little upset. I got her a couple of Pamprin out of my first aid kit when we got back to the room. She was grateful and I told Benny to keep it down … or else. Turns out he had a bit of a headache as well. I hope we didn’t pick up anything on the recent flights. That’s all we need.
I suggested both kids make it an earlier than normal night, and they agreed without comment, and I know they were asleep in minutes. I might need to up their vits as both are going through a growth spurt. Sadie is adding inches and Benny is filling out a bit. I’m hoping that our supplies hold up until we get back to the States. I haven’t resupplied since England and all the bottles are getting towards the bottom.
Lev is still editing; taking advantage of the “day off” from touring. The kids aren’t the only ones that I worry about. When he is out in public he looks fine. However, after the kids go to bed, he stops hiding it and definitely starts looking both harried and haggard. I need to make sure that all three of them drink some kind of juice at some point during the day. Vit C, Vit D, something to try and bolster their immune systems and energy.
“Babe, I gotta just get this next bit finished. It’s getting old in my head.”
“Stop apologizing. I’ll get you a wet washcloth for your face and neck. Then I’ll go shower so you can have space. If you need more I can …”
“No. Uh uh. Just … yeah … wash cloth would be good. I gotta get this finished.”
He’s repeating himself, never a good sign. I wish he could have just slept the day away.
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Thank you 
.
.
Nov 19 - Day 68: Lisbon (Part 1)
Train from Villa Nova de Gaia-Devesas to Lisboa-Oriente 2 hrs 44 minutes.
We arrived in Lisbon at 11 am and got a taxi to our hotel. Oh my feakin’ goodness. When they said palace I thought they were just goofing for advertising but … no really, it was a palace. But nothing like the one in Porto. And only slightly similar to some others that we’ve stayed in. One word for this place … cozy.
Of course palace doesn’t necessarily mean royalty. This was a rich man’s home and is around 500 years old. He was in the spice trade which was really lucrative back then. The kids had a twin room and we had a double with a balcony. We are up on the third floor. No connecting door but we’ll only be here for two nights but this place is cool. And the staff are so nice and speak multiple languages including very fluent English. They actually let us check into our room early rather than just hold our luggage which is usually what has happened. The hamster was ready and raring to go but Lev needed to make a conference call, and the kids needed some downtime. They were still a little run over from the previous group we were with.
Turns out the conference call didn’t last as long as he thought, mostly due to time difference (8 hours). The poor wee babies had the choice of staying up all night to catch us or getting up at what to them was an ungodly hour. They chose to stay up and were too tired to make us pay for their inconvenience I guess. They were trying to pull the more, more, more, faster, faster, faster thing but couldn’t quite pull it off while they were yawning. LOL
As soon as the phone conference was done we told the concierge that we’d be back before nightfall for the safety check they expected of us. Er, I was a tad worried about that but it turns out it is just because the streets get rowdy at night and they just want us to utilize our dinner tickets as well.
Wow, once we got out and really started looking around I finally noticed all of the Christmas decorations. They take their Christmas serious here in Portugal.
Today we pretty much did our own walking tour. I say pretty much but really mean we were supposed to have a local guide but something went kerflooey and nope, and no one else was available to take their place. I pulled up a handy dandy website and the GPS program that Townzen had put on my phone and away we went.
First stop was Praca do Comercio. That is Portuguese for Commerce Square. In Lisbon it is a landmark of historical and architectural significance. It’s huge, spanning 30,600 square meters. I’ll have Sadie translate that into square feet for me later, right now I can’t do the maffs. The placa (plaza) is built along the Tagus River and was once the site of the Royal Palace of Ribeira, which was destroyed in the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. That catastrophe also obliterated the royal archive, containing over 200,000 books and centuries of records. At the center of the square stands an equestrian statue of King José I, unveiled in 1775. The statue honors the King’s role in rebuilding Lisbon and also features an elephant which symbolizes Portugal's colonial empire. The plaza’s northern side has the triumphal Augusta Street Arch. Completed in the 19th century, this arch celebrates Lisbon's resilience. Adjacent to the plaza is the Columns Pier. Its marble steps once served as a ceremonial entrance to the city during Portugal’s maritime era.
And what would the history of any city be without a tragedy. In 1908 King Carlos I and his heir Luís Filipe were assassinated right there in the plaza. This event presaged the fall of the Portuguese monarchy and the establishment of the Republic in 1910. Today, a plaque commemorates this pivotal moment in Portuguese history.
The square itself is a vibrant hub of activity. (Or at least that’s what the guide book called it.) I’ll go for a big heck yeah on that. Even as early in the morning as we started there were people running along the riverwalk and getting shops ready to open. Its arcades house souvenir shops, cafes, and Lisbon’s oldest café, Martinho da Arcada. And this time of year there is a giant artificial Christmas tree all lit up and decorated as well.
Next on the map was to walk through the Augusta Street Arch. This is no small arch that’s for sure. Atop the arch, a sculptural group symbolizes Glory bestowing laurel leaves upon Valor and Genius, alongside a bell that can be rung. The centerpiece, Glory, stands 7 meters tall, dressed in classical peplos, holding two crowns. Valor is personified by an Amazon figure with dragon-emblazoned armor, representing the Portuguese Royal House of Braganza. Genius, accompanied by a statue of Jupiter and symbols of writing and art, completes the trio. The arch’s height necessitated colossal proportions for these statues, enhancing their visual impact.
In addition to other statues and decorations there is an inscription that reads “To the Virtues of the Greatest, so that it may serve as a lesson to all. Dedicated at public expense.” Okay, not all that awe-inspiring but pretty much says what they needed to I guess. We were too early to take the elevator to the top but came back later in the day to do it. The elevator takes you most of the way then there are additional steep stairs and stop-and-go traffic lights managing congestion which were odd in the space but actually useful because of the crowds that were up in there. Sign-thingies on the landings detail the arch’s history and the development of the area, including the story of an old clock.
The next thing on our list was also “odd” in a neat kinda way. The Santa Justa Lift, also known as the Carmo Lift, is an attraction in Lisbon for both tourists and locals. It is a historic elevator, built in the early 20th century, and is the only remaining vertical lift in the capital. This lift was designed to address the city's challenging terrain, linking the lower Baixa district to the elevated Carmo Square. Uh yeah, about that “challenging terrain” … wow, our calves got a work out today and that’s all I’m gonna say for now.
Construction on the elevator began in 1900, and it was inaugurated in 1901, initially operating on steam power before transitioning to electricity in 1907. The iron structure, 45 meters tall, features intricate metalwork, a double-lattice design, and two wood-paneled cabins that transport passengers across seven stories. The cabins hold about two dozen people. A spiral staircase and walkway connect the lift to nearby attractions, offering panoramic views of landmarks, such as Saint George's Castle, the Tagus River, Rossio Square, and the Baixa district, from its observation deck. Lev was all over that and I am glad I didn’t just toss this one out due to possible long lines. There weren’t lines and we got right on but we saw that it got very busy later in the day.
I will say that that ascending the iron spiral staircase requires a head for heights but it was worth it. Also, the top platform was exposed, so I was glad I had everyone keep their windbreakers on despite the workout of going up the stairs. If you are looking at the elevator head on it is kinda hard to imagine how it works. But when you get closer you realize there is a walkway at the top that takes you to the top of the hill, saving a lot of uphill walking.
I’m glad we took the elevator rather than walked it because the next stop on our map was Carmo Square all the way up the hill … well, not all the way but on up there. I was still fresh but the walk would have burned Sadie’s energy too soon and Lev had a backpack full of equipment. I offered to carry it but he gave me a quick shake of his head and I knew not to make an issue of it. Man pride. It’s a thang and Lev has it in spades. ‘Course I have my own so we are a matched pair.
The square is famous for being serene and quite and it was while we were there, not so much later in the day. And the jacaranda trees were pretty neat too. There was a arborist there teaching a community class and he had a picture of what the trees look like in full bloom. The kids got to see it and it kinda put it in perspective for them. Plus Benny remembered them from south Florida. The plaza is anchored by the striking ruins of the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, remnants of a once-magnificent Gothic temple devastated by the 1755 earthquake. The skeletal arches stand as a reminder of the disaster. Within the church’s ruins is the Carmo Archaeological Museum, one of Portugal's first archaeology museums, established to safeguard valuable artifacts.
Nov 19 - Day 68: Lisbon (Part 2)
Adjacent to the convent, the Carmo Barracks holds significant historical importance as the site where Portugal's last dictator, Marcello Caetano, officially relinquished power during the 1974 Carnation Revolution. A commemorative plaque marks the event. The convent itself now serves as the headquarters of the Portuguese National Republican Guard and houses a small museum detailing the history of Portugal’s paramilitary security forces.
The Carmo Fountain, now purely decorative, was originally built on top of an aqueduct that supplied water to the area. The fountain is one of the many public fountains constructed during the 15th through 18th centuries. The plaza also features the Valadares Palace that has shown up in a lot of films and documentaries according to Lev who wanted to capture it himself.
We skipped the archaeological museum despite its reputation. We didn’t have a lot of time in Lisbon and needed to get Lev’s photo opportunities taken care of. There was plenty of historical stuff to see that I could include in the kids’ portfolios. Instead we headed to The Church of Saint Roch. It was built in the 16th century and is one of the earliest Jesuit churches globally. That’s not all it is famous for. It is renowned for its role in pioneering the "auditorium-church" style for preaching and served as the principal church for the Jesuits in Portugal for over two centuries. Despite the Jesuits’ expulsion in 1759, the church was preserved and entrusted to the Lisbon Holy House of Mercy in 1768, which continues to manage it today.
The church’s origin is built on tragedy. There was a devastating plague in 1505, prompting King Manuel I to acquire a relic of Saint Roch, the patron saint of plague victims, from Venice. The relic was first housed in a shrine, but the Jesuits took over its care in 1553 and constructed the current church by 1575. The structure is also a rare survivor of the 1755 earthquake. Inside the church has gilded altars, intricate marble and alabaster designs, statues, tiles, a ceiling depicting Biblical scenes, and precious stones like amethyst and lapis lazuli embedded in some surfaces. The big stand out in the 18th-century Chapel of Saint John the Baptist that was commissioned by King John V. It was crafted in Rome then transported to Lisbon to be rebuilt onsite. We’ve now seen a lot of churches in Europe but this one is definitely one for the memory banks.
Nearby is the Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara (Saint Peter's Viewpoint). We got some panoramic views of the Baixa and Mouraria neighborhoods, with Saint George's Castle prominently in sight. Lev was pleased with the lighting and lack of crowds as well. The viewpoint is divided into two terraces. The upper terrace is used a lot for things like musicians and pop-up bars, especially during the summer tourist season. The lower terrace has a small garden with flower beds in season as well as sculptures of Greek and Roman figures like Minerva and Ulysses, and a small waterfall. The garden traces its roots to a 17th-century aqueduct project, later interrupted by the 1755 earthquake. Across the street, the Port Wine Institute offers over 300 varieties of Port wine, something that Portugal is famous for.
Right next to the viewpoint is the Glória Funicular, also known as the Glória Lift. It isn’t just a tourist attraction but an achievement of engineering. The funicular connects Restorers Square in the downtown Pombaline district to the Bairro Alto neighborhood where the viewpoint is. It operates on a counterweight principle. There are two partially wooden streetcars linked by a cable, enabling simultaneous ascent and descent, with electric motors on the cars, powered by overhead wires, provide traction. And you need it given how steep the pathway is.
The funicular's history dates back to 1875 but construction didn’t begin until 1882; the lift opened on 24 October 1885. Initially water-powered, it switched to steam by 1886 and then to electricity in 1915. The original design included two-tiered cars with seating arranged back-to-back on the upper floor and inward-facing benches on the lower. The funicular operates on a 17.7% slope of about 900 feet. The tram journey typically lasts about 2-3 minutes, while an on-foot descent along the track takes anywhere between 5 and 8 minutes. If there had been a wait I might have been willing to take on the challenge but the kids (and Lev) were jazzed to ride the funicular so that’s what we did.After the funicular – and yes, it was a neat ride – we hit up Liberty Avenue, a central boulevard in Lisbon, famous for being one of Europe's most expensive streets. It started out as a park for Portuguese nobility in the 1700s. Between 1879 and 1886, it was converted to a boulevard during the city’s northward expansion. It you look closely you can see elements of its original status as a park, including statues representing the Tagus and Douro rivers, fountains, and a waterfall from the 1830s. There are also landscaped garden areas enclosed by four marble statues symbolizing Europe, Africa, Asia, and Oceania. A lot of the original historic buildings have been replaced with more modern buildings of metals and glass, luxury shopping and hotels, and theaters. Anchoring the boulevard on one end is Praca dos Restauradores (Restorers Square). Though the square was built in 1886, it was a celebration of the reinstatement of Portugal's independence in 1640, following 60 years of Spanish rule.
Another nearby square was Praca do Rossio (Rossio Square) also known as The King Pedro IV Square. It is a historic square that dates back to the Middle Ages. The square has seen public events like celebrations and revolts to bullfights and executions. It became prominent in the 13th and 14th centuries as Lisbon expanded. In the 15th century, the Palace of Estaus was built on its northern side as a place to stick visiting dignitaries and make them feel important. Later, it became the headquarters of the Inquisition, and the square hosted public executions, including the first ritual of public penance, known as the “act of faith,” in 1540. On its eastern side, the All Saints Royal Hospital was constructed in 1504 but was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. The earthquake spared only the Palace of Independence near the northeast corner, where Portuguese noblemen plotted against Spanish rule in 1640.
And from that square we went to another, Praca da Figueira (Fig Tree Square). Fig Tree Square the city’s transformation since the catastrophic 1755 earthquake. Once the site of Lisbon’s main hospital, it was converted to a trading hub, gradually enhanced with trees, lighting, and iron railings. By 1885, it featured an impressive 8,000-square-meter iron-covered market that became the heart of city life for over six decades until its demolition in 1949. Those renovations brought construction of uniform, four-story buildings that now house hotels, shops, and bustling cafés. In 1971, a bronze equestrian statue of King João I was installed here, celebrating the monarch's long reign (48 years—the longest in Portuguese monarch history.
We hadn’t eaten lunch and everyone was hungry despite the snacks I’d handed out throughout the day. The weather had also turned sour so we headed back to take advantage of the hotel’s included dinner and to allow Lev to get a little more work in without have to stay up ‘til midnight. Tomorrow we are on a small group tour outside of Lisbon for the first part of the day. If we get back in time and the weather holds we are going to try and get up to the castle. Fingers crossed. The light is going earlier and earlier in the day making it harder for Lev to check off everything he needs to do on his list.
Nov 20 - Day 69: Sintra & back for the castle (Part 1)
I swear there are so many kings and queens, lords and ladies, knights, and popes and all the rest in history, it is a wonder there are any regular people left to make a mark. Today we took an excursion outside of Lisbon to this place called Sintra. I liked today’s guide, she was funny without pushing it into obnoxious, smart without being a professor about everything. She freely admitted that she didn’t speak Spanish and that even though she’d tried to learn several times, it was just too confusing. I’ve heard more than one Portuguese say the same thing. I wonder what the Spanish will say about Portuguese?
According to our guide – and I have no reason to doubt her – our destination is an interesting place. Traces of humanity in Sintra date back to Paleolithic times. At an open-air site near the church of Sao Pedro de Canaferrim and the Moorish Castle some ceramics dated to 5,000 BC were found. The name Sintra is indo-European. It means "bright star" or "sun." Romans called the place "sacred mountain." Ptolemy (Greek and later Egyptian dynasty) called it "mountains of the moon." But that is only the start of the history.
In 1147 the Moorish Castle (Castelo dos Mouros) surrendered to Afonso Henriques. Afonso kicked out all the Moors (Muslims) and started building Christian churches. The church of Saint Peter of Canaferrim was even built inside the walls of the Castle. In 1287 King Dinis ceded the town to Queen Elizabeth of Portugal (different Queen Elizabeth from the one in England). The town remained a possession of the Queen of Portugal until 1383. King Edward described the region in 1435 as "A land of good air and water." Overall, Sintra has been the refuge of kings and nobility for centuries. I guess you could say that Sintra is the Riviera of Portugal. It has been called the best place to live in Portugal and has been classified a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The minibus we were in let us off at our first stop right after the end of the guide’s introduction. We were right in front of the Câmara Municipal (Town Hall). I had to bite my lips to keep from snickering when comparing the ornate city hall in front of me with the city hall back home that took up the corner of an old post office. Like night and day. The Camara Municipal may have been built in 1910 but it still didn’t look like any city hall I’d ever really paid attention to. The only place that came close was the old city hall in Live Oak with its clock tower that hadn’t worked since the 20s when the town got beat up by a couple of hurricanes. The place was huge in front of me was much larger. It also had an enormous clock tower and tall spire, but it looked like it could have played a body double for a palace in a Disney movie. The inside is just as fancy. We barely got a look through the door though because the Town Hall isn’t normally open to tourists/ At least we got a peek before heading quickly to our next stop, this time a real palace.
According to our guide, of all the palaces in Portugal, only one spans the whole history of the country: the National Palace of Sintra. The earliest date of construction is not clear but it is probably in the 10th or 11th century when the country was still under Moorish control. The palace is actually a complex of buildings adapted and added to over the centuries.
The palace is known to have the most extensive collection of Mudéjar (Iberian Muslims) artifacts in the world. Long after the reconquest of Sintra by Afonso Henriques in 1139, King Dinis proclaimed in 1281 that the maintenance of the palace should be the responsibility of the Moors still living in it. In 1415 King John I constructed the main body of the palace complex around the central courtyard. The building has twin giant conical chimneys towering above enormous medieval kitchens[1].
Besides the circus-sized kitchens, King John I created several other rooms. The Swan Room has swans painted on the ceiling, celebrating the marriage of Philip the Good of Burgundy to his third wife, Isabela of Portugal. The Magpie room has dozens of magpies painted on the ceiling and the frieze. The birds carry the message "For Good" in their beaks. The number of Magpies equaled the number of ladies of the court at the time. The ladies had been gossiping about John stealing a kiss from a lady-in-waiting. He got his revenge by having the gossipers painted as chattering magpies. Other rooms, from the reign of King Manuel I, include the Coat of Arms Room. The room has a wooden ceiling with the coats of arms of 72 noble families of Portugal. The Golden Chamber was a receiving room for royalty. The Grotto of the Baths is covered in tile pictures of the biblical Creation.
After leaving the palace the guide continued that in 1147, King Afonso Henriques conquered Sintra. He ordered the construction of at least four Christian churches near the newly captured palace. In 1241, mainly because of the church's proximity to the palace, the Saint Martinho Church was granted the status of Cathedral. Ironically, the church prospered during the time of the bubonic plague because rich citizens who died willed their wealth to the church. The church wasn’t so lucky during another tragic event. In the devastating earthquake of 1755 the roof collapsed. The church remained in ruins until the king of that time, Joseph I, grew tired of seeing it on his way to the palace and had it restored. Yeah, good reason right? The restored church has an oversized square bell tower. The tower is in two sections. The lower section has clocks and the upper section has a carillon behind four arched portals. The top of the tower has spires at each corner and a small dome and spire in the center.
From a palace to a church and then to another palace; the Quinta da Regaleira (Regaleira Palace). The word "Quinta" refers to a whole estate and all within it. There used to be a hotel chain in the States called Quinta Inn. You can still find them here and there and now I know where the name came from. The palace is known locally as "The Palace of Monteiro the Millionaire." The "Millionaire" is the former owner, Antonio Monteiro and he was supposedly one of those "eccentric" millionaires. Monteiro was a rich coffee merchant from Brazil who bought the estate in 1892 because he had obsessions and the money to indulge them. He hired a famous Italian architect and they set to work. They created various buildings and settings derived from alchemy, Free Masonry, the Knights Templar, and even the Rosicrucians. All the work was mostly completed by 1910 including all of the gargoyles and gothic architecture that had been added to the outside. The palace building has five floors; a ground floor, three upper floors and a basement. The uppermost floor opens onto a terrace. There is even a system of tunnels that connect to grottos, a chapel, lakes, caves, the tower and the "Initiation Wells." The Initiation Wells were meant as inverted towers for secret rites including the Tarot, Masons, Rosicrucians and, as translated by Sadie, all the rest of the stuff that nutters believe.. Spiral stairs lead to the bottom and tunnels connect to other sites on the estate. It all belongs in a carnival haunted house if you ask me.
At this point the walking part was over and we went on a “panoramic” tour which basically means you ride, you hop off for a picture, you get back on and ride some more, then you hop off again for another picture, etc etc etc. Not awful which you have a good guide but I gotta admit the on and off just isn’t my thing once we did it a few times. I didn’t say anything though because it gave Lev a chance to take film and I tried to set a good sport example for Benny. Sadie I didn’t have to worry about. She said a lot of the fieldtrips she went on at her school were similar. You just deal with it.
Let’s see, we got a view of the Pena Palace, the Moorish Citadel, and Montserrate Palace. Walked a path out to Sintra-Cascais Natural Park. Then for lunch we stopped at a little place and had Piri Piri Chicken which is apparently a real thing in Portugal. We also learned that Brazilian cuisine is very popular in Portugal because Brazel was a Portuguese colony for so long.
Nov 20 - Day 69: Sintra & back for the castle (Part 2)
I was happy to head back to Lisbon because Lev really wanted to go to the castle and the kids were looking forward to it as well. Turns out so many in our tour group wanted to go that they let us off at the Tram 28, helped us to get on and then took it to the nearest stop, which was Martim Moniz. From there, the castle is about a mile further and all uphill. And I mean Up. Hill. It took our crew only about 20 minutes to walk but some of the others took longer. I don’t know if it was the steepness or if they were just too interested in the local color of the shops and cafes. The streets were also very narrow with no place to go when cars and taxis flew by. We had to step into shop doorways a couple of times to avoid losing our toes. It might be the slow season but there were still plenty of tourists around. There were also HOHO buses (hop on hop off) buses, or at least mini versions, that were taking people up and dropping them off right at the castle entrance
Castelo de Sao Jorge (Saint George's Castle) is a real live historic castle. Human occupation of the castle hill dates to at least the 8th century BC while the oldest fortifications on the site date from the 2nd century BC. Check this fun fact out. The hill on which Saint George's Castle stands has served as the location of fortifications occupied by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Suebi, Visigoths, and Moors. Pretty cool huh? I recognize all of them but the Suebi and I found out they were Germanic barbarians.
The Berbers added the so-called “Moorish Encirclement” walls in the 10th century, and the Moors held the castle until the Christian Reconquista in the 1147 Siege of Lisbon. The fortified stronghold became a royal residence in 1255 and was named after Saint George in the 14th century by King John I to symbolize ties with England. In the later period, it served as a military barracks and home to Portugal’s National Archive. Although damaged in the 1755 earthquake, the 20th-century restorations regained its prominence as a national monument and cultural site.
Within this castle complex we saw medieval architecture with ten towers, a dry moat, and steep hillsides for natural defense. Highlights include the terraced Arms Square with cannons and a statue of Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal. The citadel's primary entrance features a 19th-century gate adorned with Portugal's coat of arms, Queen Maria II's name, and the date 1846.Peacocks roam freely throughout the grounds, particularly in one of the primary dining areas looking to scarf up anything someone accidentally, or not so accidentally, leaves for them. I’m not a huge fan of peacocks, they’re noisy and cranky and they’ll damage whatever they hop up on to roost.
We also visited the Tower of Ulysses, which houses a camera obscura. We made it to one of the last shows of the day thanks to Sadie finding a sign-thingie in various languages, including English, Portuguese, and Spanish. This camera obscura, an optical system of lenses and mirrors, provides 360º views of the city. The Ulysses Tower once held some of the most important documents in the kingdom of Portugal, famously known as Torre do Tombo between the 14th and 17th centuries.
It was very cool to walk along the ramparts and we stayed up there letting Lev get all the film he could almost until dark. We caught the last tram down and it let us off not too far from the hotel and we hustled there to eat and then to head up to our rooms. Lev needed to work so I made a deal with him.
“I’m going to take the kids to that Christmas Christmas tree and then to the nearest Christmas market for some hot chocolate and just to look around. Please tell me that you won’t stress about it.”
“Babe …”
I could hear the hesitancy in his voice. “I’ll have my phone on me and you can follow me around with the locator that Townzen gave us. You know you need some time to yourself with no distractions or interruptions.”
He made and face and then said, “Just tell me you’ll head back here if the crowds get too crazy.”
“Of course,” I told him with a kiss and then went and got the kids.
Well the crowds were kind of chaotic but it was fun and I found out that Sadie had never done anything like that as “Boba and the boys” rarely celebrated Christmas except by going to other people’s parties and houses; they never threw them themselves. Sometimes she would even be left at school over the holidays because she was too young to participate in anything that they did.
“Well, we’ll do something but it might just be a tree,” I told her. We won’t get back to the River House until the middle of December if our itinerary holds up. We’ll make some gluten-free cookies and some stuff like that too if you want to.”
She gave it an honest thought and then gave a shy smile and nod. You know, I still don’t know about her family. I mean I know they are from a different social level and all that but honest to Pete, you figure they would have treated her better than a pound puppy that needed to be housed while they went on vacation. Geez.
The kids have crashed and burned and all our gear is packed and ready to go. Tomorrow we start Spain after a brief flight. I wonder if Spain does Christmas up as much as Portugal seems to.
[1] Kitchen - Discover the National Palace of Sintra
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Thank you.
Nov 21 - Day 70: Seville, Spain (Part 1)
Breakfast was a gluten-free to-go bag. Lotta food in there including both milk and juice, cheese, an apple, gluten-free pastry, and some cured meats. Yum. We took a taxi to airport where we ate our breakfast waiting to get through check in. Flight this morning almost wasn’t worth the hassle. We were longer checking in and getting on then off, than we were in the air. It was a direct flight on a small commuter plane for 1 hr 5 min. Where to? Seville, Spain I kid you not.
First thing I noticed? Castilian Spanish[1] is different from the Spanish I grew up with, but the differences appear to be minor; nothing insurmountable anyway. More like a lot more “th” sounds. But words are different and so is certain grammar things. It is easier for me to guess the meaning of a phrase than it is for me to read it. Not to be rude, but to me Castilian sounds like someone speaking Spanish with a speech impediment. Luckily Spaniards are big into being polite since you are trying to speak their language.
Something else I learned today … there is a total of five official languages in Spain: Spanish (Castilian), Catalan, Basque, Galician, and Aranees. And then there are two unofficial languages: Asturian and Aragonese. Spanish is the only official language of Spain, but the other four are regional official languages[2]. Depending on where immigrants or refugees in the country live, they may be required to show both reading and writing proficiency in three or more languages to get a work permit and access to benefits. Spanish (Castilian), their home country’s language, and then whatever the regional language is.
We met our guide right at the airport and he didn’t waste any time with the history lesson; he started it as he walked us and the others that had also met at the airport out to the transportation van. Seville is the largest city and provincial capital of Andalusia. Andalusia is the second-largest autonomous community in Spain. Think of it as a “region” that has its own government.
Ancient tradition holds that Seville was founded by Hercules. It was called Hisbaal by Phoenician colonizers for the god Baal. The Romans latinized the name, calling it Hispalis. In the year 711 CE the city was brought under Muslim rule and renamed Ishbiliyah. In 1248 it came under the control of the Christian Kingdom and the name morphed even more. After the voyages of Christopher Columbus in 1492 and Spain's conquest of the Americas, Seville entered its "Golden Age." Profits to the city were enormous. However, in the 17th century the Great Plague, massive flooding of the Guadalquivir and other disasters together with the growing independence of the American colonies brought economic ruin to the city. Seville eventually recovered and by the late 1900s a construction boom greater than any before transformed the city.
Okay, I’m going to mention this once and haven’t really complained up to this point but drivers in Europe are crazy. Italy was so bad I was glad not to be in a vehicle when at all possible. The commercial drivers in Portugal were actually pretty good by comparison but they’ve got stiff penalties for not following the rules. Spain? I’ll admit our van driver wasn’t horrible but traffic was really crazy. We finally reached our first stop at Plaza de Espana (Spain Square) and I was more than happy to get out and start walking.
I guess since not everyone had heard his joke the first time around our guide did a repeat. “Some say Seville was founded by Hercules. Hercules could not be reached for verification.” No, it wasn’t any funnier the second time around but I gave him points for trying.
Spain Square is situated at the edge of Maria Louisa Park, Seville's largest green area. The square was designed and built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. It is a semi-circle of exotic buildings and towers bordering a moat. The moat encloses a large open space. In the center of the space is the Vicente Traver fountain. The buildings are reached by four bridges that stretch over the moat. The moat itself is so large you can take a boat ride on it. There’s more symbolism as well. The four bridges represent Castile, Leon, Aragon, and Navarre, the four ancient kingdoms of Spain. Around the edges of the square are 52 niches or alcoves. Each is a tiny pavilion representing a province of Spain. Each alcove has shelves used as a lending library, offering books on the provinces.
A short walk from the Spain Square is an antique building, the former Royal Tobaco Factory. I’ve seen old tobacco factories in Florida but nothing this fancy. The old factory building is a an example of renaissance style 18th century industrial architecture. That’s a mouthful but apparently a niche architecture style.Royal Spain dominated the tobacco business in the New World and it took full advantage of the European market. In this building, for a while, every cigar in Europe was made. Its interiors have been preserved and since th 1950s has been used by the University of Seville. The University of Seville was created in the 15th century. It was originally called College of Santa Maria de Jesus and it became a true university in 1505 in a decree by Pope Julius II.
Next place our guide took us is the Gold Tower, a twelve-sided military watchtower that was built in the early 13th Century to control access to Seville via the Guadalquivir river. The tower was also a prison during the Middle Ages. Its name comes from its color which is a blend of mortar, lime, and compacted hay. It is divided into three levels, with the third and uppermost level being circular in shape, and added in 1769. There is a smaller octagonal tower nearby known as the Silver Tower, believed to have been built during the same era. The tower has face a few threats over the years including being bulldozed for road expansion and being sold for scrap. But public outcry prevented it demolition. Today, the tower has been restored and serves as a naval museum, providing insights into the naval history of Seville and the significance of its river through antique documents and other exhibits. I wouldn’t have minded going in but we were off to the next stop after only looking at the exterior. At least it was long enough for Lev to get all of the film he needed.
The Real Alcazar de Sevilla (Royal Palace of Seville) let us stop to get our next breath. Not that I was out of breath but some of the others in our group were; the guide did not move slow. In the year 712, Seville was conquered by the Umayyad Caliphate[3], the second caliphate established after Muhammad. The Muslims in that conquered the Iberian Peninsula were collectively called The Moors but that’s kind of like say “Christian” instead of Catholic without recognizing there are Jesuit Catholics, Franciscan Catholics, Dominican Catholics, etc. Add to that The Moors weren’t necessarily all Muslims but included different Arab groups like the Berbers too. After the Moors moved in there began 700 years of Arab rule in Andalusia. They completely took over and repurposed almost all other religious structures. For example, in 913 Abd al-Rahman III built a fort over a Visigothic church.
This type of conquering construction expanded on the site in the 11th century and by an addition called "Al Mubarak". Seville became the capital of Al-Andalus and ther demolishing and rebuilding continued until twelve palaces had been built one over the other. In 1248, Christians wrested the control of Seville back from the Moors. In 1366 Pedro I built another palace on the site and eventually King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella (who funded Christopher Columbus’ expedition) made the top floor of that palace the royal residence. Redecoration of but the exterior and interior continued for centuries until nothing remained of the original design. And the fancy decorative tiles that the area is known for cover a lot of surfaces.
La Puerta de Leon (Lion Gate) is the main gate to the palace and the tile inlays above the entrance depict a lion holding a cross and a banner in Latin which can be translated as "ready for anything". All the old Andalusian palaces had gardens which featured fruit trees, vegetables and flowers. They provided both food (practical) and flowers (beauty). This palace has at least thirteen that I counted. The gardens were possible because water was plentiful in fountains and ponds. Some of the “must see” items in the palace have odd names: Courtyard of the Dolls, Bedroom of the Moorish Kings, Justice Room, Prince's Room, and Courtyard of the Maidens.
We took a short break to have a drink of Tanqueray Flor de Sevilla. It is a very popular local drink 0% alcohol wine spritzer thing made from orange zest and nonalcoholic sparkling wine. Since it was nonalcoholic I gave it a try. Sadie and Benny were offered fresh orange juice which made sense because oranges grow all over Spain, though Seville oranges are bitter oranges, similar to the Naranja Agria that is used for marinading meat.
After our “treat” we hot footed it to the Seville Cathedral which stands on the site of the Great Mosque. In 1248 the city was conquered by Ferdinand III, similar to how Portugal was retaken from the Moors around the same time. The Cathedral replaced the Mosque in the 14th century but not the minaret. The minaret is called the Giralda Tower for the weathervane at its peak. The minaret has no stairs, only ramps, so the sultan back then could ride his horse to the top and enjoy the view. I don’t think I ever heard anything like that before despite all of the palaces and churches we’ve seen on this assignment.
The cathedral is accessed through the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes and is unique because it has five naves. The main nave is 118 feet high. The floor measures 380 feet long and 249 feet wide. The transept rises to 131 feet. Seville Cathedral is also known as the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea. The story goes that when the church plan was presented to the church elders, they said "Let us build a church so beautiful and so grand that those who see it finished will think we are mad." Christopher Columbus and his son are buried here. When Hagia Sofia became a mosque during the Ottoman Empire the Cathedral of Seville became the tallest cathedral known. The Giralda Tower was built to resemble the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque of Marrakesh, Morocco. The tower is 342 feet high, and it is still one of the most memorable symbols of old Seville.
Our guide took us to the rooftop and up the Giralda Tower to get an eagle's eye view of Sevilla. Between that and the tomb of Columbus right off the altar, Lev got plenty of unique shots to work with. I was glad to see he was enjoying himself as he’d been stressed out for the last week or so. I really need to find a way for him to get some work done so it won’t sit like a monkey on his back worry at him.
I was interested in the next stop despite myself. I wished for Renee and Pei to be there with me. I could see us really getting into it. The Flamenco Dance Museum has interactive exhibits and a nightly performance and though we weren’t there for that, we did get a brief show to explain some of the moves. There are posters, costumes shoes and a sn atmosphere that ties it all together. The museum is also a dance studio for both professional and amateur dancers of all ages who get to perform for the public at various times. I guess like a recital or similar.
The next stop was also interesting in a different way from what we’d seen thus far. In October 1520 a nobleman returned from a journey to the Holy Land. Inspired by his experiences in Jerusalem, he initiated in Seville the Holy Way of the Cross. The Holy Way traced the path of Christ from Pilate's praetorian to the hill of Calvary. In this case Calvary was a pillar in a field outside the city walls. The nobleman’s house was was still under construction when he inaugurated the Via Crucis and it became known as "Pilate's House." People thought of the house as a copy of Pilate's house. Pontius Pilate is best known for being the official who presided over the trial of Jesus and later ordered his crucifixion. Rooms of the house have names associated with the Passion of Christ such as the "Hall of Praetorian" and "Chapel of Flagellations."
The house is decorated with a courtyard with a fountain and the busts of Spanish kings, 24 in all. There are also a bunch of busts of Roman emperors. The place also has gardens surrounding it. The interior of the house is also highly detailed in various ways including frescoes, fountains, and other things with the theme of Hercules.
We haven’t had too many obligatory “gift shop stops” on this leg of the assignment but we did on this tour. There was a ceramics store right outside the gates and it was like you couldn’t get out without going through there. The products was nice but pricey. Lev did manage to convince me to pick up a couple of relatively inexpensive painted terracotta bowls. They are small and can hold things like paperclips or bobbypins or something like that. Sadie actually got one for that very purpose … hairclips. Lev surprised me by also adding a ceramic tile meant to be used as a trivet. Pretty and practical I could deal with without sending the hamster into meltdown mode.
I had to carefully hand out the snack bars as we walked to the next stop. Benny was hungry but wasn’t hangry … yet. Sadie needs to keep fueled so her metabolism doesn’t chew her up. Lev wasn’t complaining but I knew he had to be on the cusp of needing to eat as well. No matter what, our bodies still think in terms of the American dining habits. In Europe it is different, light meals with the heaviest one being later in the evening. I could have done it since I hadn’t been working out as much but my crew not so much.
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Nov 21 - Day 70: Seville, Spain (Part 2)
They handed over their wrapper so I could recyle them right as we reached the Palacio de las Duenas (Palace of the Dukes). It was built in the 15th century in the renaissance style but with Gothic and Moorish accents. Several famous poets and artists were born there but I didn’t recognize any of the names and neither did Sadie. The palace name is from the monastery of Santa Maria de las Duenas. There used to be eleven patios but only one remains. Inside there is a is a fancy staircase under a vaulted ceiling painted with gold. The main attractions are Italian and Spanish paintings, antiques, ceramics, sculptures, tapestries and mosaics. We moved so fast through the spaces that I don’t think I can remember a single one. My overall impression was “Wow, cool” right before the hamster forgot what it was looking at as it tried to pay attention to the next “wow, cool” item we were being showed.
Now the next spot sticks in my memory much better. The Setas de Sevilla (Metropol Parasol) is a wooden structure that has 113,000 square feet of area and 85 feet in height. It is the largest of its kind in the world. People call it "The Mushrooms" because it looks like mushrooms … sort of. There are four levels. Level zero (underground) is home to the Antiquarium. The Antiquarium is a museum displaying Roman and Moorish remains and artifacts discovered while the Parasols were being built. The next level is Level One, a street-level open air public plaza and market. Levels Two and Three are panoramic terraces and a restaurant. Lev added to his “unique architect” folder with the film he took there and while he was doing that, the kids and I enjoyed the free drink we were offered. Reminded me of a orange Fanta drink but with less fizz … all the sugar with half the bubbles and zero caffeine.
The next stop was where we were turned loose to make our way to the hotel. Supposedly you can get anything you want on Calle Sierpes (Sierpes Street). The pedestrians-only street is lined with shops and cafes. There is a rumor that the street got its name from a giant serpent that lived under the road. Some say the name is derived from the "serpentine" nature of the street. Since the late middle ages it has been the haunt of blacksmiths, cobblers, and artisans of every kind so there’s no telling wither the street name really came from so spook story away if you just gotta.
Sierpes Street also hosts events. Here at the holidays – and yes, Spain does the whole Christmas decoration thing just like Portugal – the street was decorated with overhead lights and the shops were “tastefully” decorated as well. There was also a Christmas market that we stopped in before finally hurrying to our hotel.
I hadn’t really wanted to worry but the van that dropped us off for the walking tour had taken our luggage to the hotel. We checked in to find that not only had they dropped it off, the hotel staff had taken it up to the room we’d been assigned. The Hotel Alfonso XIII looks really nice and the security is pretty high because apparently some wealthy people stay here. The lobby and the dining area are full of marble and columns. The rooms are what Meemo would have called understated. I know we have Mr. Dutton to thank for the upgraded rooms. I got an email from him directly today letting me know that Sadie’s “allowance” for the quarter had been added a little early but he was also questioning that there weren’t that many withdrawals. I’ve put together a message but also asked Sadie to send her own email and making sure that there isn’t a problem.
Dinner was a bit of an adventure. I had Coquinas, small clams collected from the coast of Andalucia, often cooked with olive oil, lemon, parsley and garlic until they open up and the meat can be removed from the shells. The leftover sauce from this dish is also used as a dip for bread, which is usually served as a side dish. Yum. Benny surprised me by asking to have Fabada which is a bean stew made by slow cooking white beans with black pudding, pork shoulder, saffron and chorizo. It is often cooked and served in a traditional clay oven which gives the stew an additional smoky flavor. Sadie decided to try Espinacas con garbanzos which is a stew made by frying chickpeas (garbanzo beans), spinach, garlic and bread, and boiling with spices such as cumin and pimenton. Lev, who was very hungry, went with an thick Albondigas stew. Albondigas are meatballs. And then after everyone was finished we had flan for dessert. I swear it was just like being back in St. Augustine or Miami.
Dinner ran late so now that we are back in the rooms everyone is taking turns with the showers so we can get some rest before tomorrow’s tour. Bullfighting anyone?
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[1] Castellano vs. Español – Spain Expat.
[2] The Spanish language
[3] The Umayyad Caliphate Explained - 500 Words of Something
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Many thanks
Nov 22 - Day 71: A Bullfight, a Carriage Ride, and Flamenco
Our day started with desayuno bueno (a good breakfast). As much as everyone ate last night, they were starving this morning. I recommended Tortilla Española; it’s a thick potato and egg omelet. I used to think it was Cuban but apparently it is a very Spanish dish. I used to make them pretty regularly until eggs got so expensive, but if you add enough fillings, it is still doable … potatoes, cheese, and some kind of meat … just not as budget friendly. Makes me hungry just thinking about the ones that I used to fix for Dad when he was home from his over the road hauls. And for those that wanted a little sweet there was also Churros con chocolate. They aren’t the typical Mexican churros most people think of. These around here aren’t the sweet, cinnamon-sugar-coated fried dough most people know. They are plainer and skinnier and typically served with a cup of thick hot chocolate for dipping, which isn’t super sweet either. And believe it or not, this is actually a popular breakfast food here. Bonus points to the staff for having a gluten-free variety available for guests.
We needed the good breakfast as this has been a high intensity kind of day. Benny has crashed and burned. Sadie is fluttering around like Audrey Hepburn when she sang “I Could Have Danced All Night”. And Lev looks like he’s been run over by a bull. What can I say? Looks like everyone got a little something from today’s activities starting with our guide running late and then having to hustle to get where we were going on time.
First up? It was off to the bull ring. Normally bullfighting season ends in October with some big festival. But this year there was one scheduled for November and badda bing badda boom, Tommi got us tickets somehow. That girl is resourceful.
The Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza is Spain's oldest bullring and is associated with the Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla, a very respected guild dedicated to traditional cavalry training. It serves as the venue for one of the world's most famous bullfighting festivals during the annual Seville Fair in Seville. The bullring itself is among the city's most popular tourist attractions, drawing a significant number of visitors. It is considered a particularly challenging arena due to its historical significance, unique features, and a demanding audience that is known to be unforgiving among bullfighting enthusiasts.
I had no idea what to expect. The only exposure I had to bullfighting is old Bugs Bunny cartoons. Finally got a brief explanation as we waited for the fight to start. Bullfighting goes all the way back to the Roman era and probably started during the days of gladiator sports. Why it settled on the Iberian Peninsula isn’t known. Then when the Moors conquered the area, they tried to outlaw it as a pagan, non-Muslim practice. It still continued, just in secret. When the Iberian Peninsula was reconquered by Christians, bullfighting made a comeback until the Catholic church took their turn trying to ban it as a pagan practice. But none of the bans worked because it was so popular with both the elite and the poor as a spectator sport.
Spanish-style bullfighting involves a physical contest with humans (and other animals) as they attempt to subdue, immobilize, or kill a bull. The most common bull used is the Spanish Fighting Bull (Toro Bravo), a type of cattle native to the Iberian Peninsula where Spain and Portugal are located. This style of bullfighting is seen to be both a sport and performance art. The red color of the cape is a matter of tradition because, get this, bulls are color blind. They attack moving objects, not the color of the object. About the only thing the red does, besides look bright for spectators, is to hide blood stains from either the bull or the bullfighter.
There are rules in traditional bullfighting. Three matadors each fight against two out of a total of six fighting bulls to death. Each bull must be at least four years old and weigh between 1,010 lbs. and 1,300 lbs. Not quite a Mack Truck, but nothing you want to run you down either. Each matador has six assistants on horseback during the fight. The fight itself is broken down into three stages. The first, called Tercio de Varas and is when the matador tests the bull for aggressiveness using various stylized moves. This is the part where the matador does the fancy cape moves, egging the bull on and stirring him up. The next part is called Tercio de Bandarillas and this is the part where the matador tries to stab the bull in the back with at least two small lances. They’re barbed so when they go in correctly, they stay in. They weaken the bull’s neck muscles and technically make him more irritable but less dangerous. Riiiight. The third stage is the last and is called Tercio de Meurte. In this one the matador reenters the ring but this time with a smaller cape and a sword. You can imagine what the sword is for. I will say that a matador that doesn’t give the bull a quick and clean death doesn’t get a lot of respect. It isn’t just the act of killing the bull, but all the acts that go up to it and showing the bull a lot of respect while acting with honor. Not all bullfights are to the death. Non-lethal fights are now just as popular as lethal ones. Bulls that survive are retired and put to stud.
Not my cup of tea but I get it. It’s a guy thing. Fighting against a large and dangerous opponent, giving a good show, and then coming out on top. Lev and Benny really got into it. It’s a spectator sport for sure. But Sadie later told me it was awful hard not to cheer when one of the bulls tossed one of the matadors. I agreed, but we kept it to ourselves.
It took a while to get out of the stadium – about like a high school football game – and once we reached the parking area we found out we weren’t getting back on the van that brought us but into a series of carriages that would take us to our next destination. Thank goodness the carriage had good springs because we bounced enough as it was. Traffic wasn’t all that fun either. I sympathized with the horse that looked like it needed a couple of headache pills to deal with ridiculous drivers and stupid tourists. I thought it was funny when we got out of the carriage and Benny told the horse thank you. The silly thing nodded its head like it understood and was saying you’re welcome, thanks for noticing.I should have known something was up with the too-innocent look on Lev’s face. That’s when our guide gathered us together and started talking again. Seville is a prime destination for experiencing Flamenco and is considered to be the home of this energetic and emotional dance. Flamenco sites are found all over the city – in bars, theaters, or specialized joints called “tablaos”. And the remainder of the tour was going to be hopping from tablao to tablao. We started at the Casa de la Memoria, also known as the Flamenco Cultural Center. The building it was in was originally a palace-sized private home. It was revamped to provide a space for the cultural center. Various rooms hold artwork and files related to folklore and dance. We didn’t see a show at this location, mostly we were there for the museum, but we did get to see the theater which was small and intimate rather than a big noisy room.
Our next stop was at La Carboneria Tavern. Not only did we get a show, but it was a great place to stop for food and drink in the form of tapas which are sort of like robust appetizers. Their regular shows don’t start until 11 pm but we were there for a flamenco lesson; and the food and drink was great and very welcome after the hours we’d spent in the sun at the bullfight. Our table – shared with others in our group with special diets – were filled with gluten-free tapas options to share: chicken pintxo which was a chicken skewer flavored with paprika, oregano, and cumin; ham croquets that used gluten-free flour; patatas bravas which are potato chunks dipped in a creamy hot sauce; spinach and chickpeas; octopus tidbits seasoned similarly to the pintxo; abalondingas (Spanish meatballs); garlic artichokes; slices of Spanish chorizo in red wine; and I can’t remember what all else because someone who shall remain nameless volunteered me for the flamenco lesson.
I was given a wraparound skirt just for “fun” and helped the teacher demonstrate the various steps. Well two could play that game and I dragged Sadie up there with me and … surprise! … she turned out to be quite good at it. Now I’m not saying I have two left feet but I’d rather sing than stomp my zapatos.
Similar to the other tablaos we were seeing, Los Gallos Tablao Flamenc is a venue for traditional flamenco dancing. The family-owned business has been in continuous operation since 1966. It has become known as one of the most prestigious flamenco venues and is also the oldest of its kind in the city. We weren’t there for a show but for a tour of the theater area and to see some flamenco costumes. This isn’t a family friendly venue due to alcohol consumption and the lateness of the regular shows. They even have a policy of no one under the age of five is even allowed on the premises. Sadie and Benny weren’t a problem but you could tell the crowd the theater normally served was for non-minors.
https://www.gpsmycity.com/attractions/los-gallos-tablao-flamenc-25363.htmlOur next stop was also where we ate dinner. Tablao Flamenco El Arenal is where our guide said visitors will find what has been called the "best place in the world for flamenco." The theater has been in operation for decades and continues to offer nightly shows. It was a kind of dinner theater. You get a delicious, sit-down meal while listening to music, watching flamenco dancing, and drinking wine. Well everyone else drank wine – including Lev after I convinced him to just relax for the evening – and the kids and I had sparkling water. And when I said the food was good, I’m not exaggerating. Meals consist of traditional Andalusian cuisine. You get to choose from a tapas menu, a la carte items and desserts.
Our group was at the early dinner that started at 6 pm and ended at 8:30 so they could clear out for the 9 pm dinner and show. Everyone was encouraged to wait for our 9:30 ride back to the hotel by shopping in the nearby Christmas market. That was fun. Lev surprised Sadie and I with Spanish hair combs, the kind that are sometimes used with Mantillas, those lace head coverings. I have a picture of some great something or others on Mom’s side of the family that were a mother and three daughters all wearing those combs and mantillas and some kind of dark dress. What color I have no idea since the picture is in black-and-white but the mother’s was definitely black. I know that one because she is wearing a black onyx widow’s ring, brooch, and earrings. My mother inherited them from her great grandmother who had inherited them from her great grandmother kind of thing and Dad kept all Mom’s jewelry locked up. When Dad passed and everything had to be packed up or sold off, Lawrence took the jewelry box and locked it up in a chest of more of Mom’s things and I finally got around to unpacking all the stuff from the storage unit. The jewelry box is in the floor safe out in Grandfather Barry’s “man cave” and … oh brother, it is like a run on sentence from hell when the hamster gets ahold of those memories. I really got off track this time.
So, Lev surprised Sadie and I with Spanish hair combs. Sadie’s is smaller than mine but she’s already figured out how to get it to work. I’ll put mine with the jewelry that I wore when Lev and I got married with a note of where it came from and who bought it for me. For just in case someone else has to take the mental hamster ride and clean up after I’m gone.
And I better put this log away and double check our packing. We leave tomorrow on one heck of a road trip with a stop in the middle that is a total bucket list item. So g’nite.
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Siskiyoumom
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Thank you so very much!
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Thank you for the addition.
Nov 23 - Day 72: The Rock of Gibraltar & Marbella (Part1)
Was up early and down in the lobby to grab a quick breakfast when the restaurant opened at 6:30 am. We basically inhaled what we could and then ran out to the mini bus so we could leave at 7 am sharp. From there is was hurry up and wait as it took two and a half hours to get where we were going. The kids went back to sleep, Lev did a little editing, and I reviewed the remainder of the itinerary.
Before we could get to customs to get into Gibraltar we had to cross the 5th most dangerous airport to enter from Spain. No, I’m not kidding. The bus let us out at La Linea de la Concepcion where we got off and then crossed the freaking runway on foot. Our main luggage stayed on the bus, and yes, I was a little worried but we kept our main backpacks with us just to be on the safe side. The border crossing was straightforward, we just presented our passports. From there our guide took us on a walk through town (great for the wiggles that Benny and I had after the long bus ride) with all its ups and downs before reaching the skyride that would take us to the top of the Rock of Gibraltar. Gibraltar is only 2.6 square miles with most of that being “The Rock”. It is really crowded and not just with tourists, lots of people live there.
The Rock of Gibraltar is a mountain made of limestone rock that sits beside the western entrance into the Mediterranean Sea. At its highest point, it sits 1,398 feet high. Because of its strategic position on Strait of Gibraltar, it serves as a fortress. A network of tunnels runs through it and these were used both during the War of the Spanish Succession and World War II. The Rock of Gibraltar is one of the two Pillars of Hercules. This was the northernmost pillar, called Mons Calpe (Mount Calpe) by the Romans. The second pillar sits on the African side of the strait, although its exact location is contested. The southern pillar is either Mount Hacho (near Ceuta) or Jebel Moussa (in Morocco). The upper portion of the Rock of Gibraltar is a nature preserve. Its most famous residents are Barbary macaques, which have lived here for hundreds of years. According to legend, British dominion of Gibraltar will end when the macaques are no longer present.
You can hike to the top of the rock via the Mediterranean Steps Hike but some of the trail is eroding and not well-kept plus, if most people choose, they take the skyride up and hike down via a different path. Since it takes about an hour to hike the mile trail up, yeah, the group opted for the skyride.
The skyride took no time. At the top is an old battlement and then after taking in a few viewpoints we headed off on the path down going from point to point. The first place we stopped is what is called the Apes' Den. We were told there were monkeys – Barbary Macaques, the only wild monkeys in Europe - up there but hearing about it and actually seeing them in person was a different matter. There’s a natural habitat up there that allows you an up-close and personal encounter with these clowns. Now I’m not saying they can’t be aggressive – you do not mess with their babies or stick your fingers out to them – but by and large they are totally used to humans.
The mischievous primates have inhabited Gibraltar for centuries, and have become an iconic symbol of the Rock. The natural habitat offers the perfect setting for the monkeys to roam freely. They are a protected species, and Apes' Den serves as their primary home. Aside from being a tourist attraction, Apes' Den also serves as an important conservation site. The authorities in Gibraltar actively work to protect and preserve the macaques' population, ensuring their long-term survival and well-being. You really are only supposed to observe them but a lot of the local guides have gotten them habituated to being fed and they’ve learned to climb humans to get what they want. Well, they thought Lev was a tree and I was quick enough to get a picture of his face and then he did the same thing when one humorous fellow thought to use my back and braid as a way of getting from one side of the narrow road to the stone wall on the other. Sadie and Benny thought that was a riot until a baby got freaked out by some tourists and skittered across the two of them to get back with its momma. They realized just how weird it felt. Ew.
The space was getting crazy busy so we kept going to The Skywalk, an awe-inspiring attraction that offers a panoramic views from an unusual vantage point. From a vantage point higher than The Shard in London, you get a 360-degree views that spans across three countries and two continents. The Skywalk itself is a marvel of engineering and design. It is built on the foundations of a former WWII base structure, giving it a historical context. Designed to withstand winds reaching speeds of over 150 km/hour, it ensures a safe and secure experience. In fact, it can support the weight of five Asian elephants or approximately 340 people standing on it simultaneously (although visitor numbers are limited to 50 at any given time by a guard). The floor and balustrade panels are constructed from four layers of laminated glass providing both durability and transparency. In other words, you get up there and look down into … nothing. Not great if you are afraid of heights.
I was more than happy to get back to terra firma but then took a side trail up to another viewpoint. Sadie tried but got scared and then embarrassed. Lev told her he wasn’t all into the heights himself and he wouldn’t mind staying on the road while Benny and I climbed a little higher. It reminded me of some of the trails we’d taken on our first adventure and when we got to the guard shack – the end of the trail – Benny and I shared a moment of nostalgia. We didn’t linger long though because we didn’t want to be selfish and leave Lev and Sadie to wait on us. We met back up with them to find that Sadie was helping Lev take some pictures of plants by holding them still in the wind that had picked up. I nodded approvingly and she grinned letting me know that Lev had worked his magic and she was no longer upset about not being able to climb the trail.
While we continued down the road to St. Michael’s Cave I bumped shoulders with him to let him know that I noticed and to say thank you for giving me a chance to go up there with Benny. He is getting older and I know I need to let him go but I still love my nephew and want to just occasionally spend some one-on-one time with him.
Rainwater, slowly seeping through limestone, will change into a weak solution of carbolic acid. The acid solution gradually erodes the limestone. It creates tunnels and caverns from cracks. This process has been carving away at the Rock of Gibraltar for thousands and thousands of years. The result is St. Michael's Cave.
The cave is really a vast network of tunnels and caverns. A 17th century historian claimed that it is named for the Grotto of Monte Gargano in Apulia, Italy, where archangel St. Michael is said to have appeared. St. Michael would have felt at home. Humans certainly have, since Neolithic times. Pottery, utensils, weapons, and artwork of the Rock's prehistoric tenants have been found there. For example, a charcoal drawing of an Ibex is on a wall. The drawing is said to be about 20,000 years old. There were two Neanderthal skulls found, that were dated to be even older.
The caves were well-known to the ancient Greeks, Romans, and Phoenicians. In the Victorian era, the caves were used for picnics, concerts, marriages, and duels. In 1840 Colonel Mitchell and a friend went in and were never seen again. In 1942, while blasting rocks in the cave to improve ventilation, a deeper system of caves and underground lakes was discovered. It was called New St. Michael's Cave. The largest room is called the Auditorium and is used for a theatre space showing sound and light shows, beauty pageants, operas, and concerts. I was happy to have non-skid hikers on because the cave was crowded and the floors slick. As neat as the short cave hike was, I was happy to escape because of the number of people.
The Windsor Suspension Bridge, built in 2016, was our next stop on the way down. It is a crazy feat of engineering that spans a deep gorge, offering crazy good views of the strait, bay, and city. With a length of 233 feet, it felt like a miniature Golden Gate Bridge than just a plain ol’ pedestrian bridge. About the middle you start wondering about the nothing beneath you. It is located between two World War II artillery batteries which just adds to the experience.
From a modern marvel to an old one. The Charles V Wall, originally known as the St. Benedict's Wall (Muralla de San Benito), is a 16th-century defensive barrier forming part of Gibraltar's fortifications. Constructed in 1540 and fortified in 1552 by Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, this wall remains mostly intact. It stretches from the South Bastion, which once stood at the water's edge in the harbor, all the way to the highest point of the Rock of Gibraltar. We climbed down a small piece of the best preserved of the wall with our guide giving us the highlights.
During its construction, the primary concern was the threat posed by Barbary pirates to the city. In September 1540, Gibraltar endured an attack by corsairs. The town was looted, and prominent citizens were taken captive. The Muralla de San Benito, later known as the Charles V Wall, was erected to protect The Rock against future assaults from the south. The lower segment of the wall ascends from the South Bastion, formerly located at the harbor's shoreline, up to Prince Edward's Gate at the base of a steep cliff. It features the Puerta de África (Gate of Africa), which is guarded from above by the Flat Bastion. It’s been in various states of disrepair over the centuries. In the 20th and 21st centuries preservation groups have started taking care of it better and fix up different sections when they can raise the money. Currently, the wall is semi well-preserved, equipped with a handrail, and allows visitors to walk along its entirety, from the base to the summit of The Rock.
By the time the guide had stopped talking we’d reached Prince Ferdinand's Battery, named after a prominent miliary leader during its construction. It was an artillery battery that housed a formidable array of artillery pieces, such as battery cannons responsible for defending against enemy ships. Constructed during a time when Gibraltar served as a strategic military stronghold, the battery played a crucial role in the defense and protection of the territory. The battery was strategically positioned, providing an advantageous vantage point to monitor and control the surrounding waters and land.
Then it was back to ancient, as in a medieval fortress. It is called the Moorish Castle, and is a mish mash of various structures, gates, and fortified walls, with its most prominent feature being the Tower of Homage and the Gate House. Until 2010, a section of the castle served as the prison of Gibraltar. The Tower of Homage, with its strategic position, is visible all over Gibraltar.
The Moorish Castle was built in the early 8th century AD by the Moors as part of their conquest of the Iberian Peninsula. The castle stretched from the upper part of the Rock of Gibraltar down to the sea. Today the castle is a major tourist attraction and is still part of the local currency’s design.
Nov 23 - Day 72: The Rock of Gibraltar & Marbella (Part 2)
And then it was once again back to more modern history. See the pattern? Queen Charlotte's Battery is another historic artillery battery. It is situated on the eastern corner of the Moorish Castle. Originally built in 1727, it has witnessed the evolution of Gibraltar's defensive landscape and played a significant role in the territory's military history. `It is technically a “retired” battery, but it could be brought back into use with some modernization if the need every arose. Its elevation would afford any gunner enhanced visibility and extended range. Even I can do those maffs. Would be like figuring the trajectory from a battleship. I explained “trajectory” to the kids using the cannons that are still up there since the WW2 weapons were removed and recycled after that war.
“Ya look a little young to be retired from the Navy girly,” a voice I didn’t recognize said, catching me off guard.
I looked up and just knew here stood a man who didn’t approve of women in the military. He also happened to be wearing a US Navy Retired ball cap. Benny must have sensed it as well because the monkey stepped in front of me and said, “Her life took a different course when my dad didn’t come home.”
The man blinked and his wife, long suffering soul that she must have been said, “Oh. We … we lost one of our sons to the same thing.”
“My brother,” I said quietly. “But my family has a long history of serving. My grandfather captained a carrier until he retired due to a service related injury.”
“Name?” the gruff old man demanded.
“Barrymore. Captain Barrymore.”
His eyes widened. “No. Can’t be,” he said aggressively.
Unfortunately, my Barrymore immediately started leaking out around my edges. I felt Lev put his hand on my shoulder and Benny and Sadie crowded me. Whether to protect me or the other guy I’m not gonna guess, but they knew something was going on.
Then another man snorted. “Oh yeah. You’re definitely his by some kin. Same damn look on your face he’d get that sent swabbies praying they’d escape with only minor damage.” Then he chuckled. “We served under him in that training ‘accident’. You know the story?”
“Grandfather Barry didn’t talk about it much,” I said, forcing myself to stand down. “My understanding is there is still a need-to-know classification for some of it.” I actually did know the details, but I didn’t know who these men were and I applied the you-don’t-need-to-take-back-what-you-never-say principle. “Similar to what we were told when my brother didn’t come home. Heroes. Sometimes you never get the details.” I wasn’t above clearing the decks still and needed to remind myself of the Barrymore honor more than the Barrymore temper.
Second man said, “Ayup. That’s the truth. And life is damn strange. You think you’ve left things behind and then life brings it back and throws it in yer face.”
I nodded, knowing for a fact that is an absolute in this existence.
We didn’t talk much more – they were on some kind of cruise tour and had to catch the minibus they were riding in from spot to spot – and I was glad to be done with them and following our own guide.
Lev noted that Benny was sticking close to me, a sign that his issues or mine were near the surface. Lev asked, “You okay?”
I took a deep breath, let it out slowly and said, “Guys like that is why Lawrence wanted me to wait and go in as an officer. I wouldn’t have been the only female Barrymore to see service, but none of the others were active duty on ships.” I worked the stress out of my shoulders and then said, “I’m fine,” while nudging Benny to walk with Sadie so she wouldn’t feel left out. He got it and when I was relatively alone with Lev I said, “Sorry. First guy was a jackass.”
“Yeah he was. Just try and … er …”
“Let it go. I will. Am. He just pushed the wrong button but it’s under control.”
“I’m not worried about your control,” he responded. “I’m worried the old bastard brought up bad memories and will spoil your day.”
“Not possible,” I told him. “I’m not eighteen-year-old me and still fresh off too many hits. I’m the me that is with the Levinson Hargis, the man that I call Admiral.”
He knew I was playing with him, but he also knew the moment was over and that my Barrymore was back under control. We bumped shoulders to avoid the PDA and caught up with our tour group. And our next stop was guaranteed to distract me further.
During the Second World War, Gibraltar witnessed the most extensive phase of tunneling in its history, playing a crucial role in the North Atlantic and Mediterranean arenas. The war prompted a substantial increase in the length of tunnels, expanding from 7 miles to 25 miles.
At the war's outset, the civilian population was evacuated, and the garrison size was significantly increased. Numerous fresh tunnels were excavated to accommodate the expanded garrison and store vast quantities of provisions, equipment, and ammunition. The tunneling was undertaken by four specialized tunneling companies from the Royal Engineers and the Canadian Army.
Some of the added guns protected the straits from potentially hostile Spanish mainland. Think of it, a territory that is only 2.6 square miles wound up with 25 miles of tunnels. The tunnels served as an underground city, capable of accommodating the entire 16,000 personnel and storing enough food to sustain them for 16 months. Within this subterranean complex, various facilities were established, including an underground telephone exchange, a power generating station, a water distillation plant, a hospital, a bakery, ammunition storage areas, and a vehicle maintenance workshop.
We had a battery named after a queen and next we went to one named after a princess … Princess Caroline's Battery. There is also a Princess Anne’s Battery. Princess Caroline’s Battery was originally constructed in 1732, and was named after the daughter of King George II. It got pretty decrepit until 1905 when it underwent extensive renovations and updating the canons to the modern artillery. It has gone through other renovations and refittings for different wars. Right now the battery houses the Military History Center. There’s all sorts of interesting “bits and bobs” in there including pictures, shells, weapons, and personal items that belonged to the soldiers stationed there.
Not far away we saw more of the tunnels, these in particular being known as the Great Siege Tunnels; a network of tunnels situated within the northern section of the Rock of Gibraltar, painstakingly carved out of solid limestone by the British forces during the late 18th century's Great Siege of Gibraltar.
The Great Siege of Gibraltar took place during the American Revolutionary War when France and Spain sought to capture Gibraltar from Great Britain. Spanning from July 1779 to February 1783, it marked the fourteenth and final siege of Gibraltar. The motivation behind constructing the tunnels stemmed from the garrison's necessity to cover a blind spot on the Rock's northeast side. The only viable solution was to position a gun on a rock spur referred to as The Notch. It was a labor-intensive feat, primarily employing sledgehammers, crowbars, and the aid of gunpowder explosions. Initially, progress was slow, with a team of thirteen men requiring five weeks to dig an 82-foot-long tunnel. The diggers faced challenges from noxious fumes and dust resulting from frequent blasting. Consequently, a horizontal shaft was blasted to enhance ventilation.
The onset of World War II led to increased tunnel construction. Extensive work was done to accommodate 16,000 soldiers with supplies for a year. The Great Siege Tunnels were repurposed, including an extension known as the Holyland Tunnel. A staircase was also built to connect the Tunnels to the Middle Galleries.
The tunnels were the end of our time, but not the end of the trek. We continued downhill until we entered a residential area and then from there we made it back to a small café where we took a moment to try some calentita, a warm pastry bread that is gluten-free because it is made out of chickpea flour. From there we hustled to reverse our border crossing and then get on our waiting minibus. We headed to Marbella, Spain. Took an hour and a half to reach our hotel; the Gran Melia Don Pepe. This is another one of those “Oh I’m not a luxury hotel, but I’m a luxury hotel” type places only done up modern. The best thing about it was the balcony that overlooked the ocean. Not that we had time to admire the view. Apparently we were running late and we had to check in, change (because the restaurant said so) and then get down to our dinner reservations.
Everyone was starving but I nearly gakked when I saw the prices. Our day’s per diem barely offset the cost. I felt Lev pat my leg under the table and then just let him handle the ordering. Sadie and Benny both got hamburgers which is apparently a thing because the restaurant is known for all of its grilled meat. Lev and I had grilled fish. The food was better than good but it took extreme measures not to have something to say about the cost. I suppose it is the same thing I ran into sometimes with Benny when we were on our first adventure. Unexpected expenses are going to happen.
Back in the room Lev said he understood and would have looked around for a local spot for better ambiance … more family friendly … and that he’d be mentioning it to Tommi. Not to get additional reimbursement but so that we could avoid that sort of thing when possible. It was an unnecessary expense when we were already staying at a “luxury” hotel.
Now that everyone else is out of the shower (two rooms one bath) I’m going to climb in. Tomorrow is going to be a catch up and leisure day … at the beach though the weather isn’t supposed to be optimal for that. Lev will have a day to work. I’ll try and give him some peace and quiet to focus. The kids will have some down time. And I’ll look ahead and try and stay organized; we have a week remaining on this leg of the assignment. I have been trying to not overthink things, but we found out about Antarctica at the beginning of the month. Tommi says she is on top of it but … Antarctica. And tomorrow is the US Thanksgiving holiday. And … and … and … the blasted hamster is trying to do the flamenco in my head.
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Thank you very much.
Nov 24 - Day 73: A Day at Leisure in Seaside Marbella
Happy Thanksgiving. Or at least it is to the US peeps. Nothing special beyond our own thankfulness of being together and the blessings that brings. There are a few other Americans around the resort, but most of them are Europeans of various flavors. People hear our accents and I still get side eye on occasion then they do a double take when they hear Sadie’s and start wondering how we all fit together. I think it is a riot, Sadie not so much. She still has an underlying fear that she’s going to get left behind or taken away. Not because it is something we want, but more that the universe will conspire against her.
I get it. I dealt with Benny’s separation anxiety enough to give her lots of reasons to know she is wanted and is part of our crew. I just want to help her find more self-confidence. I think we are getting there but as Dad used to say, it didn’t get broke overnight so it’s not going to get fixed that way either.
Today has been a catch up day for Lev, a get ahead of it day for me, and the kids have had time to do their own projects which I think they needed. The tour only provided breakfast (at the hotel) so we were on our own for the remainder. I did our laundry, went over the remainder of our gear and made a few notes. Lev worked while the kids worked on their art projects and journals that I used as proof of schooling.
About lunchtime Lev said he’d had enough and was he the only one that was getting hungry and needed some fresh air. The kids were all over that and I needed to tackle the hamster and get it going a different direction myself. We headed out into Marbella to see what we could learn and what might tickle our fancy as far as food went.
Marbella is a small coastal town in the Malaga province of Spain. In my opinion a day or two is all you need to see this place unless you are here just to relax on the beach. We started with the Marbella Promenade, a 7.5 mile seaside walk that takes you past shops, bars, restaurants, and is dotted by breezy beaches of the sandy and rocky variety. There were a couple of walk-up type tapas places and that’s what we had for lunch. We’d share some of this then we’d see something else and share that. It was like that the entire time. Definitely a family-style activity that gave both Benny and Sadie the chuckles. There were also a lot of pop up vendor carts of the fake luxury bag variety. We looked – I kept thinking of Mr. Dutton’s email wondering about why Sadie wasn’t spending her allowance – but I didn’t see anything better than what I already have and use. Sadie found a small change purse but that’s about all that appealed to her.
I enjoyed the view of the water but that wasn’t the sum total of Marbella. We headed over to the more traditional Old Town. It may as well have been an entirely different city. It had tiny cobbled streets instead of the broad marble walkway of the shore. The center of Old Town is an open square called the Plaza de los Naranjos, which is named as such for the orange trees that surround its perimeter. Just a few steps from the square, was the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Encarnacion, which is in a former mosque. Another historical landmark in Old Town is the Muralla de Marbella, the remains of a 10th century Moorish fortification. Just don’t get your hopes up with that one; it’s not exactly a fort you can walk around in, it’s more like a series of walls that you can walk around.
There are a lot of cafes there as well and we kind of regretted eating so soon. The small cafes are a good area to sit outside and people watch while you are eating. In addition to endless rows of traditional tabernas and tapas bars, there were a lot of hidden capillas, which are mini chapels where locals sometimes stop by to pray. There were also Salvador Dali sculptures out in the open air, which is pretty cool. The sculptures were in the center of the Avenida del Mar, which connects the coast to Old Town. Local artists showcase their works along the boulevard as well, and Sadie seemed to be very interested in a couple of them. Lev looked at me and then said, “There’s a shipping office in the resort. If you want we can see about sending it to the drop point.”
Well now someone else thinks Lev wears spandex and a cap. She chose a painting that was of the Marbella beach that had a family of four walking along the sand and waves. Choked me up. Benny whispered to know one a fierce, “See, she belongs with us.” Yet, all I could think of in that moment was that one day in the not too distant future she’d been leaving us … me … just like Benny eventually would. I had to take a quick breath and find a distraction to prevent the hamster from running with that idea and changing the mood. Somehow or other though Lev read my mood and put his camera down and put his arm around me as we walked, telling me in his own way that they might grow up and leave, but he never would. Crap, I hate that kind of emotional whiplash. I know what it is from – too many times being left behind – but that doesn’t change the fact that it isn’t healthy when I let it control me. So I didn’t, refused to, and things got better.
There was lots of little squares that were like miniature city parks with most of them having some kind of fountain in the center. They’re outdoor gathering spots with tiled benches to take a load off and relax. We were thinking of taking a walk down to the beach – the big draw for the area – but the weather looked like it was about to change. The wind had picked up and there was a cool dampness to it that wasn’t really comfortable. Plus, Lev needed to get back to finish his to-do list and I had a date with a worrisomely empty itinerary schedule.
Tomorrow we are on the road again heading to Granada. I need to look at the tour descriptions for the five days and try and see if I can piece out all the things that need to be done before heading to the next leg and huge adventure. And that’s what we’ve done.
Nov 25 - Day 74: The Mountains of Ronda to Granada (Part 1)
Another early morning. Small group tour but everyone was quiet this morning with most snoozing on the two-hour drive from Marbella to our intermediary destination, Ronda. I continued to work on fleshing out the itinerary the best I could as well as looking for packing lists for an Antarctica cruise. It is giving me the heebies. I don’t want things to fall apart here at the end. Lev and the kids are counting on me and I am in a hamster mood trying to make ( sure that I do my job. Lev is feeling a little stretched as well. He hasn’t complained, not a bit, but I know he needs more than just a day of downtime. And something else is going on as well. I don’t know if it is the Big Bosses asking more of him but I don’t think that is it. When I talk to Tommi she says everyone loves what he's been able to send thus far. Maybe it is that we are going back to the River House in less than a month and we’ve still got so much to do there but he still needs to finish this assignment and get it in the can. Maybe he is worrying about money like he did last time between assignments. If this doesn’t resolve itself shortly, I’m going to try and get him to talk. I just don’t want to add more stress to him here in the home stretch.
Eventually our bus pulled to a stop right outside the Puerta del Almocabar (Almocabar Gate). There we met a local guide and he started his spiel as soon as he was finished counting our group and making sure the guide from the bus would bring up the rear so that no one got left behind. Apparently we were going to be covering a lot of ground and moving quickly.
On the 20th of May, 1485, Fernando the Catholic, the King of Aragon and his soldiers entered the city of Ronda through its massive walls via the Gate of Almocabar. The 13th-century gate takes its name from the Arab, "al-macabre," meaning "the cemetery." There was a Muslim cemetery just outside the city walls. The Almocabar Gate was the main access to the town. The Castilian procession entered the first walled enclosure of the Islamic Ronda called "Arrabal Alto," today known as the Barrio of the Holy Spirit. The entrance gate of three recessed Gothic arches lies between two semicircular towers of cemented stones. During Napoleon's occupation of Spain in 1808, the walls of Ronda and the Almocabar were left in ruins and were not restored until the 1960s.
We hot footed it to the next point of interest and I already could see we had some tour group members that were going to have a hard time keeping up. It wasn’t age, I think it was simply inclination. There were two women there about Lev’s age that struck me as being far too similar to some of the others Lev worked with that made the work too much about themselves and not about the subject.
Iglesia de Santa Maria la Mayor (Church of Saint Mary the Elder) was built on the remains of a 13th-century mosque, and is located in the Town Hall Square of Ronda. The Square is also known as the Duchess of Parcent Square in memory of one of the first women who occupied a seat in the Spanish Congress. The church’s odd tower and facade make it look more like a City Hall. It contains one of the original columns of the cathedral built just after 1485. An earthquake in 1580 destroyed the original structure. The current building is a replacement. The Medina Mosque, replaced by the original church, was itself constructed on top of a Visigothic church built on top of a Roman altar of the goddess Diana honoring Julius Caesar's victory over Pompey. So let’s see …. Roman to Visigoth to Moor/Arab/Muslim Mosque to Christian Cathedral to Christian church. That took centuries but is quite a progression historically speaking. And each progression incorporated bits of what came before it. For example the current church still holds the Mirhab prayer niche of the Medina Mosque.
There’s a connection to Gibraltar in Ronda. Abomelik, son of Abdul Hassan, sultan of Morocco, and Emperor of Fez ruled in Ronda's Golden Age. Some say the Mondragon Palace that we stopped in front of was built for him. Our guide said it was a pretty tale but unlikely because the palace was built in 1314. Abomelik did not arrive in Ronda until after his victories in Gibraltar in 1330. The palace may not have been built for him, he did live there for a few years before dying in battle against Alfonso XI in 1338.
The Mondragon Palace today has been heavily renovated over the centuries. Most of it is now a modern structure but it does retain a few of its ancient elements: Mudejar ceilings, original tiling, and galleries and balconies of the inner courtyards. Finest of all is the remaining water gardens. The gardens hover at the edge of the cliffs of Ronda. The Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella stayed at the palace in the 1490s. They ordered the first of many changes and additions to wipe away signs of their predecessors.
From a Moorish palace we went to the Banos Arabes de Ronda (Arab Baths of Ronda). The Arab Baths of Ronda were built, some say, in the 12th or 13th centuries. Others claim they date from the reign of Abomelik in the 14th century. The Baths are outside the walls, next to the Arabic Bridge. The exterior of the Arab Baths is mostly intact. The water pump tower and the aqueduct can still be seen. A donkey on top of the irrigator (saqiya) turned a wheel that pumped water from the river to the aqueduct on the bath wall. As we entered the bath compound, we saw a tower with a water channel and access ramp on the right. The tower contained a well connected to the waters of the Guadalevin River in the Ronda Gorge far below and the Canyon of Snakes, also far below. Water from the tower emptied to the aqueduct and then into to the baths, where it was heated and sent to the hot rooms.
The Arab Baths, like Roman Baths, had three zones; cold water, warm water, and hot water. Romans liked to soak in a hot bath, whereas the Arabs preferred to use steam to detoxify. The three areas were separated by four pairs of horseshoe arches supported by brick and stone columns. Star-shaped windows in the vaulted roofs is how light got in.
Near the Arab Baths is Puente Viejo (Old Bridge). The city of Ronda is divided by the 394-foot-deep chasm of the Guadalevin River. The chasm is spanned by three bridges. The Old Bridge is the second oldest and the smallest of the three. Built in 1616, it is only for pedestrian traffic. Despite its name Old Bridge, it is newer than the Roman Bridge. The 33 feet bridge is a basic single-arch and 102 feet above the riverbed. The bridge parapet niches and balconies were redone in an 18th-century renovation. There are four viewing balconies mid-span, and the road is paved. On the north side of the Old Bridge is a stepped garden leading up to the New Bridge. On the south side is the ornate Gate of Philip V.
We next went by Casa del Rey Moro (House of the Moorish King). Contrary to its name our guide explained no Moorish King was ever inside the House of the Moorish King. The house was built in the 18th century, centuries after the last Moorish commander of Ronda, in 1487. The one item here from the Moorish occupation is the "Water Mine." In the 14th century, King Abomelik ordered steps cut in the walls of the Ronda Gorge to enable water to be hauled up from the river. In 1485 an attack disabled the water wheel. With water cut off, the city surrendered.
A short walk later we arrived at Puente Nuevo (New Bridge). The New Bridge could be called Second Bridge, as it is the second span over the river gorge at that spot. The first attempt was in 1735. The bridge had a single-arch design. It was put together rather quickly and not well. It collapsed in 1741, killing 50 people. The New Bridge of today is the largest and newest of the three bridges spanning the chasm of the River Guadalevin. It was completed in 1793 and a high central arch is flanked by two smaller, shorter arches. The chamber above the central arch has had several uses, including that of a prison and torture chamber. It was used as such by both sides in the civil war of 1936-1939. More than a few prisoners are said to have met death on the rocks of Ronda Gorge. The chamber guardhouse today has exhibits on the history and construction of the bridge. And personally? I think the local guide got too big a charge out of telling those stories. I like me some reasonable ghost stories but they don’t need to be graphic and gross.
I was not happy to have Benny and Sadie hear them but later on I heard Sadie tell Benny that history “is full of that sort of nonsense. Its up to the rest of us to keep it in perspective and not wallow in it making people want to get attention doing it more.” I might not have said it quite like that but I didn’t disagree with her either and Benny seemed to take it to heart and not let his empathy get over deployed.
Since we were already at the Tajo de Ronda (Ronda Gorge) the guide gave up his “fascinating stories of torture” and start a geography lesson. The Ronda Gorge splits the city's heart in two, basically old town on one side and new town on the other. The Ronda Gorge, formed by erosion, is 394 feet deep and 223 feet wide. The River Guadalevin cuts through the canyon, fed by the snow melt of the Snowy Mountains. The river is powerful. Flour mills once used river water to power their machines until the landslide of 1917 wiped them out.
There’s a trail for walking through the canyon that starts at the Roman Bridge on the east bank. There is no trail on the west bank. At the bottom, by the river, are several ponds connected by the old mill canals. Steps were carved into the rock walls of the canyon so that Christian slaves could carry water up from the river in water skins. Spending time in Key West meant the next bit of trivia caught my attention for than it might have anyone else there. The Ronda Gorge is used in Hemingway's novel, "For Whom the Bell Tolls." There is a scene of Republicans throwing Nationalists from the cliffs, possibly in Ronda.
And since we’d already done two bridges, it was time to do a Square. Close by the New Bridge is the Square of Spain. While it is part of the New Town, it is also the entry point to the Old Town. It seems that most Spanish towns of any size have a square named Square of Spain. The Square of Spian in Ronda is different. How is it different? It overlooks the New Bridge and the Ronda Gorge.
The town's main square was made famous by Ernest Hemingway in For Whom the Bell Tolls. Chapter 10 tells of fascists rounded up in front of the Town Hall and thrown off a neighboring cliff. The episode is based on events that took place in Square of Spain in real life.
I’d about had all I wanted of the “murder and mayhem” thrills the guide was trying to give us. I was glad to arrive at the Plaza de Toros de Ronda (Ronda Bullring) despite having just experienced one in Seville. The first bullfight in Spain was held in the bullring in Ronda in May 1784. The Ronda Bullring, constructed entirely of brick and stone, is about two blocks from the New Bridge. All the seating is covered behind gallery arches. The seating capacity is only about 5,000, but the arena ring itself is the largest in the country. There is over 250 years of bullfighting history in the on-site museum which is what we were there to see. The museum displays bullfighting regalia and accouterments, torero outfits, swords, and lances. In 1572 King Philip II created the Royal Cavalry to promote military training, which included horsemanship and spearing bulls from horseback.
Every year, in September, an important festival takes place at the ring. There are Flamenco festivals and processions of fans in 18th-century costumes. The celebration ends with a weekend of fighting in the arena. Orson Welles and Ernest Hemingway attended the event, and Welles' ashes are scattered in the area.
Attachments
Nov 25 - Day 74: The Mountains of Ronda to Granada (Part 2)
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We stopped right off Plaza del Socorro (Socorro Square), a popular place in Ronda, for the included lunch. The place was smallish and I only saw two men working; one was cooking, one was serving all the tapas you could handle. I’ve worked food service and I can’t honestly say that I’ve ever seen anyone working harder.
We didn’t order, the guide did and we shared a table with an older couple who didn’t look at the kids like they were sweaty dynamite. They admitted to missing their grandchildren and wouldn’t see them again until in the Spring as their son was stationed in Italy. Well that started our conversation and they even knew how to draw the kids in without making them “perform”. The food was outstanding if a little adventurous for some people. Octopus salad were just two of them tapas I was happy to eat so other people could eat the “normal” food. One of the couples in the group were Asian and they kept looking at me and nodding in approval, especially when I got both Sadie and Benny to try new to them dishes. Hey, if it was gluten-free, why not. There were also a lot of cured meats Lev had eaten several of them without a problem I made sure Benny only ate small portions just in case. There was a bowl of Russian Salad (diced vegetable salad), patatas ali-oli (potatoes in garlic and oil sauce), albondigas (meatballs), pickled mussels that I didn’t catch the name of, caramelized tomatoes, and several different kinds of cheeses with crackers (we at the cheese and let everyone else have the crackers). I don’t care if they are considered “appetizer” type dishes, you get plenty to eat. Most of the men had a beer and a few of the women. Lev had a glass of wine instead. The kids and I stuck to sparkling water.
We finished up (we ate outside) and the kids and I made sure to stack things neatly to clear some of the tables for the line that was forming. The man who was serving gave us a smile and nod with the universal thumbs up sign. Almost too full, we started walking (almost speed walking) around the square as the guide pointed things out. There was a fountain and under the square was an underground car park. The Church of Help is located on the square and relatively new, the original church being destroyed by fire in 1936 after having been in that spot since 1557. In front of the Church of Help is a statue of Hercules taming two lions. The lions represent the "Pillars of Hercules" at the Strait of Gibraltar.
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From the square we walked out to the Alameda del Tajo (Gorge Promenade). The promenade is a tree-lined botanical garden, dating from the 19th century and borders the edges of the precipice of Ronda Gorge. The trees are named for children born on the day of planting. Some of the trees lining the avenues are more than 200 years old. Himalayan cedars, stone pines, and honey locusts can be found. The Caldron Handle is a famous rock formation in the area, great for photos and definitely on Lev’s list. The views from the promenade are crazy cool as well.
From the promenade we headed to the train station in Ronda to take a three-hour trip to Granada, Spain. Our luggage was waiting on us when we got there and we had to take them onto the train ourselves and put them in the luggage racks near our seats. Once we got on the train Lev got set up to do some work and Benny and Sadie pulled out their own tablets to work on one of them art projects. I pulled up the itinerary notes on my own tablet and got busy. I know most of our tour group decided to take a rest after the near running from place to place in Ronda. For me the three hours passed quickly.
We were fresh off the train when we saw a woman waving a sign of the tour group name and we went over to check in. It didn’t take long to gather our entire group – something that seemed to please our guide – and she started talking as we walked out to the arrival area to get on a minibus.
One of the first places a tourist wants to visit in Granada is Alhambra, the region’s most iconic sight. By far not a typically Spanish attraction, this enormous fortress encompasses palaces, gardens, courtyards, and is the greatest surviving relic of Andalusia’s 800 years of Moorish rule. The sprawling complex sits forbiddingly atop the Darro valley, against a dramatic backdrop of the striking peaks of Sierra Nevada, and is visited daily by more than 6,000 people.
Originally a small fortress, it was built in 889 AD on the remains of ancient Roman fortifications, and was later extensively rebuilt, in the mid-1200s, by the then Moorish Emir of Granada, Mohammed ben Al-Ahmar. The name Alhambra derives from the Arabic al-Ḥamrāʼ, which means "the red one" and refers to the red clay of which it is made.
After the Christian Reconquista in 1492, the site became the Royal Court of Ferdinand and Isabella, with minor renovations done to bring about Renaissance style. Today, the Alhambra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, exhibiting Spain's most significant and well-known Islamic architecture, together with 16th-century and later Christian building and garden interventions.
Gate of Justice is the original entrance to the complex, built in 1348. Often described as the highlight of the Alhambra, the Nasrid palaces comprise many objects, including the Mexuar Palace – renowned for its internal decorations, the Comares Palace – the former official residence of the Sultan, and more.
Among other notable sights here are The Palace of Charles V – an illustrative example of the later part of Renaissance architecture, the Alcazaba Fortress – raised as a symbol of the Spanish conquest in 1492, and the beautiful Generalife Gardens – offering a stunning view of the old Arabic neighborhood of Albaicín, to mention but a few.
Soon enough we arrived at our hotel for the next two nights, Hotel Alhambra Palace[1]. Mr. Wright struck again – or maybe Mr. Dutton – and we had a two bedroom suite that had a shared balcony with crenelated wall (like the top of a castle). We didn’t stay in the room but changed quickly and headed down to the dining room for a group dinner. Benny and Lev both chose the grilled salmon, Sadie had the grilled chicken, I had the venison loin. The prices weren’t as bad as they had been in Marbella but I was glad the dinner was included with the tour this time. I was surprised that dessert was as well. Sadie’s was an easy pick … Black Chocolate Cake. We all grinned and she grinned in return. Sadie’s love of dark chocolate was becoming a family-level inside joke. Benny and Lev both had the baked meringue with crème interior. I was ambivalent so I had the seasonal fruit plate and turns out that was perfect.
After dinner we walked around the hotel and learned its amazing history[2] but we needed to get back to the room for the kids to rest and Lev get a little more work done. We have four days to go. Tommi communicated with me directly that we’d need additional paperwork for the kids and that she’d be sending it to me to review. I’m concerned about getting kitted out for the Antarctic cruise. Tommi said she would ship some and that we’d need to try and pick up a few things once we got there. The cruise provided a parka so at least I wouldn’t need to look for that. Four more days and then we fly out the night of the fourth and I’m still waiting on enough details to create a plan from. The hamster does not want to be flexible. I’m going to put this log to bed and go shave my underarms. I just hope I don’t cut an artery.
[1] Luxury Hotels near Alhambra Palace | Hotel Alhambra Palace
[2] https://document-tc.galaxy.tf/wdpdf-b685pr3145by7ykgx36qg2k77/history_cms-document.pdf
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Another thank you.
Nov 26 - Day 75: A day in Granada
Woke up and took our vouchers down to the buffet breakfast. Plenty of gluten-free options for Lev and Benny. Sadie found her churros and chocolate … the girl doesn’t seem to ever get zits from it … but I wasn’t feeling the love for food. I didn’t really sleep well. I didn’t toss and turn but I dreamed all night, a sure sign that the hamster is not wanting to cooperate. Too much uncertainty I guess after having the itinerary all lined up and spelled out for me for so long. Every assignment has been like that, or at least it has been done like that in sections and well be before one leg ends and another begins I’ve gotten then next section of itinerary to review and plan with. I hope Tommi can give me more sooner rather than later. Something would be better than the nearly nothing I have at the moment beyond a destination. All that to say I stuck with fruit and a little Iberian ham as the protein.
We met up with our tour group in good time in the lobby and walked to our first stop of the day. The Alhambra was only a ten-minute walk from the hotel. The walled enclosure of the Alhambra has four doors or gates. They are each impressive, but the awesome one is Puerta De La Justicia, the Gate of Justice. The gate was the Gate of Law in the Arab era of Granada. It was called Bib-Xarea and it was built by Yusuf I in 1348. However, the official name then was Bib-Xaria, Door of the Esplanade, for the area in front. Today the esplanade is filled with gardens and walks. Back in the day it was a military camp. Next to the gate is an artillery bastion. A cut stone wall descends from the wall. Before the wall a renaissance stone pillar is dedicated to Charles V. In the center of the esplanade is a pillar honoring Washington Irving[1] of all people on the centenary of his passing. The interior of the Gate has three vaults. The inner Gate is still decorated as it was when it was first built, with rhomboid tile patterns. Outside the gate is an altarpiece to mark the site of the first Catholic mass said after the reconquest.
The Alcazaba Fortress is proof that Muslims and mulwalladins (converts to Islam) never really got along well. Not even in the ninth century. This guy Sawwar ben Hamdun found it necessary to build a fort. Another one, Mohammed I, threw up a rampart and improved defenses and erected three towers. The towers were the Broken Tower (Torre Quebrada), the Keep (Torre del Homenaje), and the Watch Tower (Torre de la Vela). We were allowed to climb to the top of the Watch Tower. It is said that Mohammed I liked it because he could see his enemies when they were yet far away. I wouldn’t doubt it, the views are pretty spectacular. Then after the Christians reconquered the area, the Catholic Monarchs installed a huge bell in the Watch Tower called La Vela (the Sentinel). La Vela would always be rung on significant state occasions. It also rings to observe the Day of Conquest (Dia de la Toma), each January 2nd. Some poet left graffiti on the tower, “...there is nothing in this life like the grief of being blind in Granada."
On January 2nd, the anniversary of the Conquest of Granada in 1492, single women of the town race to be the first to ring the bell. Superstition dictates that the first woman to reach the bell will be married by the end of the year. The tower stands 88 feet tall, and has a solid square based of 52 by 52 feet. The tower was struck by lightning in 1880.
Another point of interest inside the Alhambra is the Palace of Charles V. There’s a bunch of fat and sassy cats hanging around it and I swear people were taking more pictures of the cats than of anything else. And cats being cats they all posed acting like it was their due. Personally I don’t mind cats, there are a lot of them in Key West, but I preferred the flower gardens to the Palace of the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V. The palace, begun in 1527, was not completed until the 20th century. And here I thought getting some of those Cathedrals in England built took a long time.
Charles V was not only an emperor, he was a king. He was ruler of Spain and most of Southern Europe. He had palaces galore, but he wanted a summer place. Ferdinand and Isabella had taken rooms at the Alhambra. He wanted something new that was particularly his own to show his personal consequence. But get this, Charles never lived in the palace. Talk about having too much money and consequence and little to no accountability on how it got spent. Kinda gave me a disgust of the place.
Up next? The Mexuar which is the public reception hall of the Alhambra complex. People who had a bone to pick with the Sultan would climb up the hill from Albaicin, enter the Mexuar through the Gate of Arms, sit down and wait. And wait. And wait. If you left you lost your place in line and the waiting had to start all over again. The outside walls of the Mexuar Hall have been changed so many times that no one knows what they originally looked like. The changes are the result of the improvements and repairs of the Catholic Monarchs and especially the great powder magazine explosion of 1590. Yeah, that would do it. A plaster frieze on the current building has an inscription in Arabic that reads, "Everything that you own comes from God."
The Mexuar served much the same purpose for the Christian kings as it had for the Sultan. At the rear of the hall is a room used by the king for council meetings and for granting audiences. If the king was absent, the Cadi (judge) would meet with petitioners in the hall next door. There is also the Mirhab, a small mosque. Visitors are not allowed to enter the Mirhab. But if the door is just a little bit ajar, something that is sometimes done on purpose, you can see in so long as you aren’t obvious about it or taking pictures.
The Comares Palace is thought to be the most important structure in the Alhambra. It was the residence for the king and it has rooms surrounding the Court of the Myrtles. That guy Yusuf we kept hearing about wanted his palace to amaze and awe his visitors. He did not live to see the result. Kinda says something if you are thinking about it. His son Mohammed V was responsible for finishing the exterior of the building. At the north end of the palace is the Hall of the Boat (Sala de la Barca) and the Hall of the Ambassadors (Sala de los Embajadores) inside the Comares Tower (Torre de Comares). The Hall of the Ambassadors gets the prize for being the most impressive room. It is pretty dark in there except for natural lighting that comes through three large windows. The central window shines on the throne. High up in the room are smaller windows illuminating a wooden ceiling depicting the seven heavens that it is said a soul must traverse to meet Allah.
The Court of the Myrtles has a central pond and it was once called Patio of the Pond or the Reservoir (Patio del Estanque o de la Alberca). Then someone planted myrtle shrubs in place and the name got changed. The pool is fed by two fountains at either end. Around the pool are galleries and porticoes. The Court is 140 feet long by 74 feet wide. From this court it is possible to see the Comares Tower above the roof, which gets reflected in the pool. There is a bit of philosophy attached to this set up. The all-powerful Sultan could admire his tower above, but its reflection in the ripples of the pool would remind him of the transitory nature of earthly glory.
Next came the structure called the Court of the Lions. The theme of the court is based on early Islamic gardening. It is divided into four sections, representing the quarters of the world. Each quarter is irrigated by one of the four rivers of Paradise. The courtyard is imagined to be paradise itself. White marble columns form a grove in an oasis. Water, columns and gardens create paradise. On the basin of the lion fountain is a quote by a Muslim poet, "The fountain of the Sultan, which smothers with his graces all his subjects and lands, as the water wets the gardens." The Lion Fountain is a bowl-shaped basin supported by twelve lions facing outward, squirting water from their mouths. The water falls from the lions into four streams that run through channels to the sides. The arches around the courtyard are filigreed (think lace made out of concrete) that symbolize palm trees in a desert oasis. All the symbolism was making my head hurt. Why can’t decorations just be decorations? Why does there have to be a story to each and every element? And then they take the big picture and make a further symbol for that probably based on something symbolic to begin with. Oy. Ridiculous. It’s like people are trying too hard to make something mean something. The next few buildings didn’t tweak me quite as bad as the first few did.
The Church of Saint Mary was built between 1581 and 1618 over the site of the Great Mosque. It has as much artwork as other churches we’ve seen but it is just artwork though I’m sure the art aficionados of the group could dig deep and find some symbolism. I refused to do that instead just choosing to appreciate that it was art that I couldn’t create. Good enough. This church does have a “thing”. Every Easter the Virgin (a representation of the Madonna) appears is carried in a procession, on a throne depicting the arches of the Court of the Lions embossed in silver. Okay, so there is a little symbolism there.
Currently the Monastery of San Francisco is a parador, a state-owned luxury hotel usually only found in significantly historical locations. However, we weren’t there to see the parador but for the remains of the monastery. Before the Reconquista, the monastery was the site of a Moorish palace with its own prayer room. Isabella, Queen of Castile had her eye on it. She promised she would build a shrine as soon as they took over the Alhambra. She kept her promise. And when the Catholic monarchs died they were buried in the monastery chapel. It was a temporary arrangement. They were destined to rest in Isabella's Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) which was under construction. Twenty years later, they moved the bodies. In the 18th century the old building was remodeled except for the chapel where the monarchs had been buried. That part of the monastery was left intact. Today a marble plaque marks the place where Isabella and Ferdinand were temporarily interred. It sits in front of the altar of the church. The monastery was seized by the state in 1835. It was used as a tenement, and a stable. It became a ruin. Ultimately it was saved from demolition in the 20th century. Sort of. The roof of the church has collapsed and the nave is now a strange looking courtyard.
Our guide told us that we should thank Corporal Jose Garcia for saving the Alhambra in 1812. Napoleon's marshals were taking a beating from The Duke of Wellington and the French had to abandon Granada. The retreating army tried to blow up the entire fortress. Jose cut the fuses between the towers. So okay, a shout out to Jose, he saved the Alhambra. There was some destruction. The Tower of Cabo was destroyed. The Water Tower lost all but a few walls. The tower remained a wreck until 1870 when the Alhambra was declared a national monument.
The last point on the tour was the Generalife Gardens. The name "Generalife" may be taken to mean "garden of paradise". It seems it was the dream of every Islamic gardener to create paradise in a garden. I will admit these gardens were really nice but, meh, I pretty sure paradise’s are going to be better.
A promenade leads to the "Patio de la Acequia", the heart of the palace grounds. There is a line of arches on the western side. A portico on the north side is called the Mirador. The Mirador has five arches in front and three behind. Beyond the portico is the Patio de las Cipreses with a pool in the center. A series of small pools are lined with oleander and myrtle shrubs. I told Sadie, and a couple of other group members that were touching the oleander to be careful because they were poisonous. I thought it was a little weird to have poisonous plants in “paradise” but whatever. The Upper Gardens area were formerly olive groves which is much more understandable for paradise. Today the former olive groves have an esplanade, and a stairway with cascading waterfalls instead of olive trees.
While walking us back to the hotel, our guide told us several legends about the Alhambra and the Generalife. One of the more “risky” ones concerned a Sultana and her lover, a knight of the opposition. Think a modified version of Romeo and Juliet. The sultana and the knight would rendezvoused beneath the branches of a great cypress, which is still alive today. They were found and the Sultan ordered all the men of that family to be killed. The great Cypress, which is now called Cipres de la Sultana is waiting for them to return. Some of the other women sighed about the romance. War and death are not romantic, even if it is in a garden setting. I much prefer Lev’s honest comraderie and shoulder bumps to all that heaving and sighing I see in the movies and was forced to read in Shakespeare.
I suppose towards the end of my description of this tour I sound a little sour. I wasn’t, I guess I just kinda of got fed up. Symbolism, romance that isn’t romance (probably was just lust to be honest), and crowds of loud tourists do not make for a happy hamster. Neither did the stories I heard from our other tour group members of dealing with pickpockets. Worse? Was the constant vendors trying to get our attention to buy something. I was trying to pay attention to the tour, keep an eye on the kids, watch out for Lev who can’t really look through a camera lens and watch where he is going, and watch all of our backs at the same time. Doing it in obnoxious holiday crowds only made it more of a struggle.
I must have given good face however because my crew didn’t seem to notice anything. I will say I was happy to get away from the tour group. Unlike some of the other places we’ve been, the Christmas market doesn’t start in Granada until December 1st, but we could see where they were already setting up as well as putting up some decorations. It was a bit messy and Lev had to shoot around the construction.
It was still a while until dinner – we were scheduled for another flamenco dinner show, this one in the hotel – so I was looking for something to feed the thundering herd so no one would get the hangries (*cough* Benny *cough*) when I spotted a outdoor market that ran down the side of this narrow side street. Lev saw me looking and encouraged me to go for it, he’d keep the kids in the nearby green space. For some reason I love haggling. I had to develop the skill to keep us fed and clothed back in Key West and it really became necessary after we moved to the River House and the economy got so rough. I usually like to barter sweat equity for something I’m after but sometimes people only want cash so I start haggling. To be successful at it you need to respect the person you’re haggling with, or at the very least act respectfully.
By the time I returned to Lev and the kids with the booty, I’d spent less than half what I’d been willing to and had plenty to feed the bottomless pits (and Sadie and I) with some leftover for the train ride tomorrow in case the “box breakfast” listed on the itinerary sucks.
To start with I got some of the biggest dang pomegranates I’ve ever seen. Wow. And compared to what I would have had to pay for them – had I even been willing – back in the States, they were a steal. There were also cherimoyas (they look funky but have a state like a pineapple-mango-strawberry milkshake. No, I’m not kidding. They’ll grow around Miami in South Florida but they aren’t many of them, usually they come in as imports. Kiwis and oranges rounded out the fruit. I also had fruit smoothies for each of us. For protein I got a large cone of mixed cured meats and some thin slivers of different kinds of cheeses. Once an older lady figured out what I was doing she told me to go see her son, that he had skewers of seasoned meat fresh off his grill. I glanced around and a couple of other people there nodded in agreement encouragingly. Not only did I get the meat skewers but I also got some grilled artichoke. And another vendor called me over and I got some single serving sizes of flan for dessert. I carried it all back to my crew to find out that Sadie had sniffed out a vendor selling roasted chestnuts. We had a picnic right there and then I stuffed everything else in my backpack to get it into the hotel and up to our rooms without people noticing.
Now we are back from the flamenco show and dinner, the kids have crashed, Lev is packing up his editing equipment and we really need to get to sleep. Tomorrow is a train ride to Cordoba and then another to Madrid after that.
[1] Washington Irving - Facts, Books & Life
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Thank you.
Siskiyoumom
Veteran Member
Thank you so very much.