Story Aunt Gus and Crew's Adventure Book 5 [COMPLETE]
- Thread starter Kathy in FL
- Start date
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Thank you.
Nov 7 - Day 56: Life in Palermo, Past and Present
Breakfast was the normal quickie Sicilian thing and then we started our day with a guided visit to the Palazzo dei Normanni (the Norman Palace), the seat of the kings of Sicily during the reign of the Normans and the main seat of power for Sicilian rulers for centuries. It is anther UNESCO World Heritage Site and together with the Palatine Chapel in the heart of the palace, the palazzo dates back to the 9th century. But before I get into the palace, I need to give some history background about how the palace got its name.
In the ninth century, on the highest point in the center of the old city, on top of Punic ruins, the Emir of Palermo built his Castle. Pieces of the Punic settlement and the Arab castle can be found under the foundations of the Norman Palace. The Normans conquered Sicily in 1072, shortly after they had done the same to Saxon England. They established the County of Sicily with Palermo as the capital. They then gave the castle a complete make-over. It was to be the Royal Residence of the Norman kings.
The palace became a complex of buildings connected by arcades. The compound was established as a residence and administrative center wrapped in gardens. In 1132 King Roger II added the Palatine Chapel, he wanted a family chapel as the crown jewel of the Palace. It was consecrated in 1140. Calling it a “family chapel” though is kinda crazy. In reality, the chapel is a three-story basilica. Dedicated to Saint Paul, it is a premier example of the Arab-Norman-Byzantine architectural styles of 12th century Sicily. The dome, transept, and apse are covered with Byzantine mosaics portraying "Christ Pantocrator", the Evangelists, and scenes from the Bible.
These people called the Angevins, the Aragonese, and the Swabians came and went after the Normans. Then the Spanish viceroys used the Palace as a military headquarters. The Bourbons created the Red Room, the Yellow Room and the Green Room and redid the Hall of Hercules, known for its frescoes of Hercules. Then there are the Hall of the Viceroy, the Hall of the Winds, and the Hall of Pompeii. The Maqueda Courtyard and the Courtyard of the Fountain within the Palace are courtyards with three levels of Renaissance loggias and staircases. Of the original four towers, only two, the Pisan Tower and the Treasure Tower, remain. There are mosaics made from precious stones and gold that even I could tell were way on the other side of impressive. That bit of overload was just the first of several palaces we visited today. Next up was the Palazzo Arcivescovile (Archbishop’s Palace).
It was built in the 15th century. The palace is attached to the cathedral by an arch and an ostentatious Gothic tower (yeah, yeah use my thesaurus). Today, the palace is home to the Diocesan Museum of Palermo. The museum is housed in 15 rooms and features a variety of religious art which we managed to see enough of to satisfy everyone. There was the 1171 Madonna of the Pearl from. The same room also holds several 13th and 14th-century artworks. Room III holds a variety of crosses of all styles and size. Rooms IV, V, and VI holds items from excavations of the Archaic age, Byzantine period, and medieval era. These excavations are from the Archepiscopal Palace’s foundations. In Room VII, there were 15th-century sculptures, such as a marble Madonna. Room VIII held more sculptures, this time from th 16th century. I was arted out by the time we escaped … er finished. Benny was doing better than I expected, mostly for Sadie’s sake, but he was about filled up with other people’s art as well.
The next palace on the list was Palazzo Asmudo. To me it looked like some of the rich peoples houses in London. I guess that’s what they call a palace in this parts. Construction on the palazzo started way back in 1615 and wasn’t finished until 1767. The palace has belonged to several different families. Today, the palace is a museum. The palace had a small cafe so we stopped for drinks … cappuccinos, water, etc. … and took a few moments to relax before continuing our tour. A couple in our tour group definitely needed the break to catch their breath.
The Palace of the Eagles (Palazzo delle Aquil) is also known as the Praetorian Palace. It houses the mayor's offices and the municipality offices. The palace was built between 1463 and 1478 and is this big square building done in the yellow-ish cream-colored stone you see all over Sicily. In 1553, the facade was renovated, and the palace was expanded. Additional renovations took place in the 1600s and 1800s. Above the main entrance door is a marble relief depicting an eagle. The palace's interior is even more impressive. Several of Napoleon's weapons are on display. In addition, the entire palace is filled with elaborate frescoes, reliefs, and intricately painted ceilings, as well as several locally important works of art.
The Palazzo Mirto dates back to the 17th century. The Filangeri family (Sicilian nobility) owned owned it for over 400 years before donating it to the city in 1982. It is filled with lots of original artwork and gives insights into the lives of a wealthy Palermo family. The 21 rooms all feature original furnishings full of velvet and silk wallpaper. Decorations include frescoes, tapestries, and chandeliers. In addition, the floors are covered in majolica tiles, mosaics, and colored marble. There was a ballroom, enormous library, and a room called the Chinese Salon all done up in red silk and black lacquer. Another room called the Smoking Salon's had walls covered in colorful Cordovan leather. The Lounge of Diana features a swiveling Apollo statue that leads to a hidden passage. To top it off there was a terrace on the second floor with an enclosed garden. It was kinda overwhelming and seemed to say, “Look at me. I’m rich.” Though I suppose that was kinda the point. I’m not sure I could relax in that kind of home. I’d always be wondering if I was making more work for someone, or bumping into things, especially given the clothes people used to wear. Sadie said that some of the girls she went to school with had houses like that, but the family’s personal quarters were plainer and more relaxed. Hmph. So that’s the way they do it.
Another “big block lookin” palace was the Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri. It was also and other old one as it was completed in the 14th century before one of its members was executed in 139, disgracing the entire family. In the early 1500s it was converted from a family home to the palace housing Sicily’s Aragonese-Spanish viceroys and saw other important evens incluing when Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor and King of Sicily, ceded the Maltese Islands to the Order of the Hospital from here in 1530. After that, the palace housed the Royal Customs. From 1600 to 1782, the Holy Inquisition was held in the palace. The palace is now a museum with at least as much artwork and geegaws as we saw in other palaces.
Walking a little further we saw the Palazzo Butera, an impressive waterside palace. This building wasn’t as old as some we saw; it was commissioned in 1701. The terrace was built in 1750. In 1760 the Prince of Butera (I have no idea where that is) bought the palace next door and joined them. The addition doubled the size of the palace. In 2016 it was purchased again by a family that is restoring it, but it is also a work-in-progress museum and will eventually house an art gallery.
The palaces tour was over at this point and several tour group members let it be known we were late for lunch. We weren’t late, we were simply having a later lunch at a local place and had to wait our turn for things to clear out. After lunch we took a guided visit to Teatro Massimo, the largest opera house in Italy and the setting where the final scenes of the movie, Godfather Part III, were filmed. We had about an hour of free time which we took following Lev around while he took some filler shots. Then it was back to the hotel where we were on our own again. We spent it walking on the beach before calling for room service and a light supper so that Lev could work and the kids could work on a school project.
We are leaving the resort in the morning and heading towards this place called Taormina. I’m not thrilled with the prep work for the itinerary. Maybe I’m just being lazy but the explanation of the days barely gives me an idea of how to prepare and what to expect. I’m going to try and put an hour in before heading to bed to try and do my own research. I also need to check the weather. There were no stars tonight because of clouds.
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Thank you.
Nov 8 - Day 57: A cathedral, mountain vistas and Taormina
I swear it is like pulling teeth to get some people to understand being on an organized tour means you are on a fairly regimented timeline for a reason. We did manage to get everyone on board the bus, but we left thirty minutes late which meant hitting traffic that meant we were even later. That kind of thing brings out the worst in the hamster and my leg was bouncing by the time we reached our stop at this place called Cefalù for a guided tour of its Norman cathedral. It is considered “one of the jewels in Sicily’s Norman-Arab crown” and you would have thought people that had paid for their spot would have acted more appreciative. Geez.
I know Lev was a little worried as I kept seeing him give me side glances without him wanting me to see him doing it. I grabbed hold of my patience, muzzled the hamster, and did my best to enjoy the stop without letting a certain couple of women know just what I thought of their competitive act of who is more important. I’ll stop there. Even remembering it is making the hamster stressed out. What really chapped me was that we had to give up some photo stops that Lev really wanted for his portfolio. I know he makes it seem easy, all that film turning into things that can fill expensive coffee table books. But the reality is it is a physical workout with the camera equipment, and he has to live life through the lens rather than just participating in what is going on. Sure, he likes it. Sure, he’s a freakin’ genius about that stuff. But it isn’t wrong for him to want something for himself, and those two shrews screwed it up. To say they are on my list? I’d best keep that to myself so there isn’t any evidence.
So back to Cefalu. According to our guide, for the Greeks, it was Kephaloidion, “head” or “headland” (most likely referring to its geograph), and the Romans knew it as Coephaledium. The Arabs called it Gafludi, “fortified city with abundant waters”. All of those names fit in their own way. The town is dominated by a monumental rock, as in it is 885 feet tall, known to the Phoenicians as the promontory of Hercules. On that big ol’ rock stands the Temple of Diana which, according to our guide, is a megalithic building linked to the cult of water, as indicated by the nearby cistern dating from the 9th century BC.
While we didn’t make it up to the temple, the historic quarter of the town lies in the shadow of the giant rock. Standing as another landmark is the Duomo, a gigantic cathedral commissioned by Ruggero II The Norman. According to legend, the cathedral was built in this city and not in Palermo, the capital of the kingdom, following a vow made to the Holy Savior by Roger himself, who had escaped a storm and landed on the town’s beaches. On the other hand, it is more likely to have been built for political and military reasons. Another practical reason is it made for building a natural fortress which Sicily needed at the time.
We also saw another historical site, or at least those of us who could handle the climb did. The medieval washhouse, entirely dug into the rock and in daily use until not long ago, can be reached via a lava stone staircase known as “a lumachella“. You wouldn’t think a wash house would be all that exciting but it had an atmosphere (and was a way to escape certain personages).
It was a semi-covered space, occupied by a series of ancient basins, where the water of the fiume Cefalino flows from twenty-two cast-iron mouths, some of which are in the shape of a lion’s head. I could just imagine washerwomen busy with their daily loads. I’ve had to wash clothes in the river before. It is no small amount of work. The covered area has and, on the right-hand side of the entrance, you ca see the inscription “Qui scorre Cefalino, più salubre di qualunque altro fiume, più puro dell’argento, più freddo della neve – Here flows Cefalino, more salubrious than any other river, purer than silver, colder than snow“. Legend has it that the Kefalinus River was created by the tears of a nymph who regretted having punished the betrayal of her lover with death. Ugh. I’m not too sure there are any happy love stories in Greek mythology.
Another consequence of our late arrival was that we missed our lunch reservation. I may not have to find a way to pay the cranky old biddies back if some of the things the other group members said means anything. I passed out nearly the last of the snack bars to my crew and it was enough to hold them over.
We did something really unusual to get to our stop for the night. It was a cable car ride from the area of Mazzaro up to Taormina, Italy. The bus took our luggage to our hotel, the Grand Hotel Timeo, while we road the “Funivia” up. Our guide says the cable car operates year-round from 8 am to 8 pm and in the summer it sometimes runs as late as one in the morning.
The gondolas aren’t very big; they hold eight people max, but we were lucky, and our crew got one to ourselves. The ride had some spectacular views. We found out that the cable car system started construction in 1928 and has been renovated around three times since. It is due another renovation, but it didn’t look bad since they keep it well maintained. The length of the ride is about 2,230 feet and takes only about two minutes.
Lev needed some work time so after arriving in Taormina and checking into the hotel I asked the kids if they wanted to go exploring. They understood and we actually had a good time. I don’t mean to sound surprised or anything. I just mean we didn’t have a lot of company to wade through. And the weather was nice. The day’s high was 68F and the low wasn’t much different at 60F. Our lightweight jackets were more than adequate for the temperatures.
We started at the Catania Gate (Porto Catania) and I took some film for Lev to use as filler and the kids made notes to go with each photo which I’ve included in this log entry. The gate was built in 1440 and is one of the original gates to the hilltop resort town. It accesses the Corso Umberto, the main street of the city. The Corso is a pedestrian street leading to the eastern, more ornate gate, the Messina Gate (Porta Messina).
The gate stands before the Giuseppe Buciuni Square (Piazza Giuseppe Buciuni). It was once a part of the triple wall fortification system defending the city. Above the arched gateway is a bas-relief plaque with the Arogonese coat of arms giving the date of the most recent restoration. The kids and I did a bit of imagining of how the defenses would have worked. I counted that has schoolwork. *wink, wink*. We also got into history and geography as we read about the architecture around the gate which is a mix of Arab, Norman, Gothic, and Spanish elements.
Next stop on the walking tour that I’d found was the "Four Fountains”. It was located in Cathedral Square (Piazza Duomo), in front of the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas of Bari. It was built in 1635 and gets the nickname "four fountains" from the four small columns at each corner. Each column has a basin and a spouting horse with fins for legs, so maybe not horses but seahorses. Two basins form the central part of the fountain. The fountain only works part of the time, but we were in luck and they had It running that afternoon. I took some hi-res slow-mo film for Lev to mess with. I gave a copy to Benny who played around with it making it look like the horses were moving or talking, much as he did with the geocaching projects he did when we were on the Florida assignment. Sadie thought it was hysterical and now they are making other plans with the technique.
From the fountain we went to the Taormina Cathedral of Saint Nicolo di Bari. The battlements on the roof give the 13th-century Sicilian-Gothic-Romanesque church the nickname "Cathedral Fortress.". It really did look like a fortress. It wasn’t open to visitors as there was some important something or other going on, so we just took pictures of the outside and moved along.
Umberto Street (Corso Umberto) is the all-pedestrian main street of Taormina. It follows the path of the Consolare Valeria, the ancient Greco-Roman way, from the Catania Gate (Porta Catania) directly to the Messina Gate (Porta Messina) on the other side of town. The street is named for Umberto I of Savoy, King of Italy, from 1878 to 1900. Like around the gate, the buildings and monuments along the Corso contain styles from the different eras of Arabic to Norman and Gothic to Baroque, with some Romanesque and Renaissance thrown in. Halfway down the road was the main square. On the south side is the Clock Tower (Torre dell'Orologio). Middle Gate (Porta di Mezzo) is at the base of the tower. The Tower Gate connects the old Greco-Roman section to the medieval part of town. There was also the Church of Saint Joseph. There were also a ton of little shops along the way. There were also magnificent views of Mount Etna that Lev said I did really great capturing.
We strolled through the Public Gardens to the Ancient Theater of Taormina. There was a troop of actors practicing a play about the volcano on Mount Etna. According to the play, Etna was the workshop of crippled Haphaistos, blacksmith to Zeus, and married to Aphrodite, Goddess of love. Aphrodite was forced to marry b Hera, wife of Zeus, as punishment for her ill-considered dalliance with Zeus. So, Aphrodite set up house with Haphaistos on the volcano, but she was always unfaithful. Zeus denied everything.
Not what I would call a moral story but then again, the Greek gods were never moral from what I remember reading of them; more of a story of what not to do than how you should act. The amphitheater was built by Greeks in the reign of Hiero II of Syracuse. It was later remodeled by the Romans with statues and columns. They also replaced the dramas with games and gladiators.
Not far from the theater was the Corvaja Palace (Palazzo Corvaja). The original part of the palace is the cubical tower bastion. It was built in the 10th century as a defense by the Arab conquerors. It was in the 13th and 14th centuries that the fortified palace acquired its unique mixture of styles. The Corvaja family owned the building from the mid-1600s until 1945. Nowadays, Corvaja Palace is the home of the Museum of Folk Art and Traditions and the town's tourist office.
At this point it was getting late in the afternoon. I knew we were on our own for our dinner, so I stopped in at one of the delis on the way back to the hotel and picked up a picnic basket of food that fit our crew’s diet and a bottle of wine as well for Lev. I knew he was abstaining because I don’t drink, but he deserved a treat as I knew he was trying to hide how much stress he was under.
“I was just about to text and …”. He stopped when he realized I was carrying a basket, not my backpack. “Hey, what’s that?”
“A picnic,” I told him with a grin. I started pulling out slices of cured meat, fresh cheese, arancini (I gotta learn to make these things), fresh fruit, raw veggies, olives, and the bottle of wine.
“Hey ho, look at that,” Lev said with a grin.
Lucky for us the deli had been willing to include some paper trays and plastic ware so we could eat in the hotel in relative comfort. Lev had to drink his wine from a water glass but he didn’t seem to mind.
Now the day is done. I almost bought a can of caffeinated water but stopped myself. I need to practice calming the hamster without medicinal assistance. Hopefully there will be fewer “displays” tomorrow and more consideration.
Nov 9 - Day 58: Taormina & An Adventure to Mt. Etna
Took an early morning guided walking tour of Taormina with a guide. Pretty much covered everything the kids and I had done yesterday afternoon, but we didn’t mind. It confirmed what we’d been figuring out on our own plus we got some historical stories to go with it. It also helped Benny and I get our wiggles out. Sadie’s weight is leveling off again but given she is finally gaining height it makes her look like she is losing weight instead of maintaining. I don’t want to give her a complex but if this continues, I may try and add some extra calories to her diet via meal bars, nutritional drnks, or something like that. It is going to take a think or three. I may even ask Pei for some advice.
After an early lunch where we opted to pick something up from the same deli we used yesterday, we did something really cool. We took a 4x4 Range Rover adventure up Mount Etna. Did I mention this was cool? We were freezing our butts off, but it was still fun to hike on the top of the volcano where it had a moon-like lava surface. The actual hike we took was to follow Hadrian’s footsteps. Yeah, the Roman guy that left walls all over the place.
In 121 AD, Roman Emperor Hadrian set off on a tour of his empire. But before heading off to far foreign lands, he decided to do something a bit more local – Mount Etna! According to legend, Hadrian once rose before daybreak, hiked to the summit, and watched as the sun rose and the shadow of ‘Mamma’ spread across Sicily. Because of safety rules, it’s no longer possible to summit before sunrise because you know if it had been we would have been all over that, like some of the sunrise hikes we took in Hawaii.
We didn’t hike all the way to the summit, but leap frogged up there. We started with a 4x4 ride to the Rifugio area where some of the craters are. At that point we were already at 5900 feet above sea level. Then we took a cable car to the next point that dropped us off at 8200 feet above sea level. From there we had a guide beyond Torre Del Filosofo at 9514 feet. Definitely for experienced hikers only but it … was … so … cool! Sadie is exhausted tonight, Benny not far behind her, but both feel so accomplished. We saw lava flows, lunar landscapes, and hidden sites that only the guides up there know how to locate. The biggest treat was that it was all without the crowds that hang out on the lower slopes. Only two other couples from our tour group opted to come on the hike with us. Some hadn’t even made it on the 4x4 … Cruella and the Queen were holding court back in Taormina.
When we came back from the summit, we still had a little time before heading down and I did something I don’t normally do. I bought some lemon infused honey, a specialty, and… well… I purchased a “Last Supper” carved out of black volcanic rock. Grandmother Barry had one that looked just like it except it was done in white alabaster. I still have that one packed away and have plans to put it in a shelving unit I am going to turn into a display case along with the mini animals that I’d picked up on the safari.
“Oh c’mon Babe, you know you want it,” Lev said teasingly trying to encourage my unusually weird collection desire.
“That’s not the point. How am I supposed to pack it?”
“We fly out tomorrow. We’ll just send a box to the drop point from the airport. I was thinking of sending a few things back anyway and you were thinking of sending some of the scarves back ‘cause you were complaining they are slipping and sliding all over the place inside your bag. The sales lady said she’d pack it for us and even stamp it so it won’t be a problem for customs.”
Well, he didn’t really have to convince me all that hard but I’m going to have to be careful. I have a feeling there are more boxes than I remember waiting on me to do something with once this assignment is over. I also don’t want to take advantage of Pei who is picking stuff up for us and putting it in her garage for safekeeping.
Before heading back to the hotel, we had a snack at a café up there and we wound up eating this cool pyramid shaped fried rice kind of things. Like the arancini rice balls from last night except for the shape. I was in luck and got the last two gluten-free[1] ones for Benny and Lev and then got the regular ones for Sadie and I. They were stuffed with cheese and beef. They remind me a little bit of Spanish stuffed potatoes from back home … well except instead of mashed potatoes, they are made of rice before being deep fried. We didn’t get a full meal because after returning to the hotel – after a stop at a local winery – there was a farewell reception and dinner at the hotel. It made for a late night and some people are going to be scrambling to get all their packing finished. We’ve been staying packed but I needed to get organized. For now, I need to hit the hay to keep my head on straight. Tomorrow we are flying to Venice. Now there’s a phrase I never expected to say.
[1] Gluten-Free Air Fryer Arancini - Air Fryer Fanatics
Nov 10 - Day 59: Travel from Taormina to Venice, Italy City of Canals
Should call the start of our day “A Train, A Plane, and a Bus”. I’ve gotten good at keeping us moving along during our travel days but only with effort. Some people seem to walk around this world completely lost and not caring too much they are creating roadblocks for people behind them.
We were up early for a continental breakfast before going to the train station where we headed back to Catania, Sicily. Once the train got going it only took an hour and seventeen minutes. Yep, I timed it making sure we wouldn’t miss our connection. Luckily the train let us off at the airport in plenty of time to check in and go through their version of TSA to get to our short pond-hopper flight to Venice which didn’t take quite two hours once we were airborne. It was at the airport that we ran into problems. Well not problems so much as stupid people.
Apparently most people don’t know that talking louder doesn’t make you anymore understandable to people that don’t speak your language. Like I explained to Lev, I understand and can read Italian, I just can’t speak it. However I am conversationally proficient in Spanish. Sadie speaks French and German. Lev has a smattering of several different languages but only the basics. It took all three of us and Benny playing along to get these two tourist groups moving at the taxicab stand so everyone else could get where they wanted to go as well. What a Chinese fire drill. It was like playing a game of telephone.
We finally just opted to take the bus to get to the hotel and by that time my Barrymore was starting to leak out around the edges. Geez people are so rude, even to kids who are trying to stay out of their way. And they say American tourists have a bad reputation.
We are two nights in the Baglioni Hotel Luna. Holy smokes what a place. My head was on a swivel trying to take everything in. The building used to be a freaking palace, and you can tell. Though why, after all the ones in Sicily this should freak me out, I’m not sure. We have one of their family suites thanks to contacts within Sadie’s grandfather’s sphere. Cheaper than two separate rooms but not by much but more comfortable in my opinion. It is only a minute from St. Marks Square, one of the main gathering points in Venice. It has its own private jetty which means you can catch one of those gondolas right from the hotel. Inside the floors are made of marble and the ceilings have frescoes painted on them. Despite the obvious luxury it didn’t feel cold or snobby. I’m freaking amazed and I don’t think it is because I am getting used to going around in that socioeconomic level.
After checking in we did a couple hours of looking around the hotel and Immediately outside It, but we were back for the 6:00 pm welcome reception and dinner at Antico Martini, supposedly one of Venice’s top restaurants. It was across the street from the La Fenice opera house.
Tommi had taken care of our orders with the tour company and praise be, Benny and Lev could eat everything she chose. I tried not to squeak about the price, but I got a look at the menu while other people ordered that hadn’t done so beforehand. Definitely more of a rarified place than we would normally eat. Need to watch that if we are supposed to be a family-type travel show. I do know however, that when I was doing my research, Venice is not really a budget location. If you come here, you need to be prepared for the price tag and plan accordingly.
Dinner started with a salad of salmon, avocado, and grapefruit with a sour cream sauce. Sadie had the steamed fish flavored with herbs and ginger which she said was perfect for her stomach which was a little off. Benny had the chicken supreme since it was a good portion of food. Lev had a rib steak. And I had giant scampi grilled with zucchini. Yum, yum. Dessert was a meringue with fruit. Let me repeat, yum yum. I guess it is true when they say the food you eat is as much a part of the experience as the sights you see. I must keep that in mind and not allow my normal penny pinching to take away from the memories we are making or the job we are doing.
From there we headed back to our room to wash up and get organized for tomorrow. I’m numb. We’re in Venice … not Venice Beach, CA. Not Venice, FL. Venice freaking Italy. And boy have we hit the ground running.
Nov 11 - Day 60: Iconic St. Mark's & Doge's Palace (Part 1)
Brrr. Cold day today. Barely got up to 50F and it was cloudy. November is a budget month for tourism in this part of Italy with the weather changing from “pleasant autumn to chilly winter”. Well, got news for them, the chill has already arrived. And to me it was crowded but our guide told us that there were a lot fewer tourists than in other months. Wow. How crowded? Worse than the beaches on Maui where there was barely a place to put your feet, especially as the tide came in.
Today was all walking. Thank you, thank you, thank you. I needed a distraction from it being Veterans Day in the US. I also tried not to hear some of the skanky things on the international news. If we were in the States we would do something, but here all I can do is try and live well in honor of those who made it possible to have the freedom to do it. I know there are some large Army bases here in Italy, but I haven’t seen anyone that obviously stands out as military. May kind of be the point after the last few years. I need to control the hamster wheel so back to the day.
Supposedly we only walked two and a half miles, but it took most of the day. While we were having breakfast our guide gave us a history lesson. I recount what I can remember here so I can eventually add it to the kids’ portfolios. Almost all experts agree that the “Venetian lagoon” emerged nearly 6,000 years ago; however, the area of today's Venice remained mostly uninhabited, except for a small population of fishermen, up until the 5th century AD when hordes of Gothic barbarians, looting their way into Rome, drove many a people away from the mainland to take refuge on the coastal Venetian islands. Those who fled the burning and plundering by the invaders founded a city which was officially recognized as such after the supposed remains of St. Mark the Evangelist, brought from Alexandria, Egypt, were interred here some time around the 9th century AD. At that point, St. Mark became the patron of Venice and made it part of the Christian world.
Shortly afterwards, Venice gained independence from the Byzantine Empire and, by the early 11th century, emerged as a powerful city-state successfully trading with the Christian forces during the Crusades. Two centuries later, Venice became a seasoned maritime republic, reigning supreme over the Mediterranean, stifling opposition from the Byzantine Empire.
The Venetian Republic was ruled by a Doge, an elected-for-life leader assisted by the Council of 10 and the Grand Council of 2,000 members. This form of government remained in force until the Napoleonic invasion of 1797 which removed the Venetian Doge and Grand Council from power. Then came a period of decline that lasted until the turn of the 19th century when Venice emerged on the scene once again, this time as a fashionable vacation spot for the wealthy.
Reputed to be one of the most romantic places ever built by man, Venice is nicknamed “the City of Water” and “the City of Bridges” depending on who is doing the talking. Other than the water and bridges though, the city has a great art legacy due to its numerous and beautiful palaces, galleries, and churches.
Speaking of doges, that was our first stop of the day. The Doge’s Palace was built on the foundations of a 9th-century fortress. Over the course of centuries, it has served many purposes, including a Doge residence, the seat of the Venetian government, a court of law, a civil office, and even a prison.
First built in the 14th century, much of the structure was destroyed by fire in the 16th century, reducing to ashes most of the art treasures held inside. Some of the greatest Venetian master artists and artisans of the time contributed to the restoration efforts by recreating gilded stucco, sculptures, frescoes, and canvases that returned the palace to glory. Externally, according to our guide, the palace exhibits a blend of Byzantine and Gothic architectural styles, while the interior has Classical elements. Inside were displays of furnishings, paintings, and adorned ceilings. For instance, a piece of art by this guy Tintoreto is supposedly the largest oil painting in the world.Note, I grew up hearing that the painting inside the Atlanta Cyclorama[1] was the world’s biggest oil painting. The one in Venice is 72’ X 23’ and was painted in 1592. That’s not exactly small. However, the Cyclorama one is 358’ long and 48’ tall but isn’t nearly as old and was originally designed as a “immersive educational experience”. The reason I know is because Grandma Barry and Meemo took me on one of my “high-interest” fieldtrips after it had gone through another refurbishing. Hmmm. I guess some of these world records all depends on who you hear it from and what authority they have. There’s a lot of pride involved.
To contrast the luxurious life lived in the Doge’s Palace, the opposite side of the canal reveals the grim remnants of the prison cells. Linked to the outside world by the Bridge of Sighs ("Ponte dei Sospiri"), these cells serve as a graphic reminder of prisoners who faced torture and potential death at the hands of the city's appointed state inquisitors. The term "sighs" refers to the “lamentations” of countless victims forced across the bridge.
The next part of the tour involved that guy named Casanova[2]. I thought he was just some legend, not a real person, but apparently he is, or at last was. At the age of 30, on the night of 25 July 1755, Casanova found himself arrested, accused of offending religion and common decency. He was sentenced to five years of imprisonment without even being granted a trial. His confinement took place in the Doge's Palace, where he was confined to a cell beneath the lead-covered roof. In the sweltering summer months, the oppressive heat turned his place of incarceration into an unbearable oven, further exacerbated by the torment of countless fleas infesting the premises. Heat wuld have been bad enough but I had to deal with an infestation of sand fleas at The River House. What a nightmare.
Enduring 15 months of torment and despair, he finally hatched a plan to escape. Creating a hole in the ceiling, he fashioned ropes from bed sheets and descended to freedom. This escape made Casanova the only person ever to break free from the prison of the Doge's Palace. Seeking sanctuary, he first sought refuge in Munich, then continued his journey to Strasbourg, eventually concluding his odyssey by coach to Paris, where he would start a new life.
On breaks in the tour I read up on the guy. Ew. He as a major reprobate no matter how the ladies might have gone gaga over him. What a disgusting freak when he had the chance to be so smart. He started university at 12. When he graduated, he went to the dark side while he was a bleeping priest of all things. Like climbing in bed with a 16-year-old girl and her 14-year-old sister. Then later in life he got back in bed with one of those sisters and her daughter that also turned out to be his daughter. He also had a ton of gambling debts, all before he was 21. Then he traveled Europe living an even more debauched life, came back to Venice at 30, got imprisoned, escaped after a year, then just kept on being a nasty human being. He finally died when he was 73, probably never regretting a thing except when he was broke and needed to come up with a new scam. Now there’s a morality play for you.
After the Doge’s Palace we went to St. Mark’s Bell Tower (and no I’m not talking about the one at EPCOT center): Venice's tallest bell tower was originally constructed in the 12th century. It served as a combined lighthouse and belfry and underwent continuous modifications until the 16th century when the golden angel was installed at the top. Back in the day, each of the five bells served a specific purpose: the largest tolled to mark the beginning and end of the workday, another rang at midday, two others announced sessions of the Senate or called members of the Grand Council to meetings, and the smallest signaled an impending execution.
It was from the top of this belfry that Galileo Galilei[3] famously showcased his telescope to the Venetian Doge in 1609 – an event commemorated by a plaque at the tower's observation deck. Still, the most dramatic episode occurred on July 14, 1902, when the tower collapsed shortly after giving a warning sound, causing the people below in the piazza to flee for their lives. The Venetians put it "where it was and how it was", and the tower is now safe to ascend all the way to the top. Unlike other belfries that require navigating narrow and steep spiral staircases, the Venetian one has an elevator allowing people to effortlessly reach the top. We went up as part of our tour. Pretty amazing views but also nearly too crowded for comfort. Sadie and I bookended Benny despite Sadie and Benny being about the same height. The tower is 325 feet in height and is the tallest structure in Venice. Lev got some excellent shots of Saint Mark's Basilica ("Basilica San Marco") and the surrounding lagoon.
St. Mark’s Basilica is one of the main draws for tourists visiting Venice. Its construction dates back to 832 AD when it was built to house the remains of Saint Mark (yeah, the guy who wrote on of the Gospels in the Bible). Legend has it that the holy man's body was brought from Alexandria, Egypt, hidden in barrels of pork meat, which the Venetian merchants believed the Muslim guards would never touch. Upon arrival in the lagoon, Saint Mark was said to be greeted by an angel who proclaimed that his body would find rest in that place. This legend has inspired numerous works of art over the centuries.
Two hundred years later, a magnificent temple was built on the foundations of an earlier church and consecrated when Saint Mark's body was laid to rest beneath the high altar. The new basilica was designed after the renowned Church of the Apostles in Constantinople. To enhance its splendor (and therefore importance), the structure was adorned with marble and mosaics depicting scenes from the Old and New Testaments, as well as the lives of Christ, the Virgin Mary, and Saint Mark himself. Over time, many of the mosaics were retouched or replaced as artistic tastes changed and damaged mosaics needed restoration. As a result, the current mosaics styles represent a span of 800 years.
Our guide knew the best time to visit the basilica, around midday, and made sure Lev got some space to take his photos. The lights are only turned on for a limited time 11:30am-12:30pm) and that when the mosaics on the vaults, walls, and cupolas are illuminated and at their most spectacular. I didn’t know it, but some of the photos he was taking on this leg of the assignment were going to be “gifts” to the various cities we were visiting. It got us access to places we might not have otherwise gotten without a lot of palm greasing if you know what I mean.
St. Mark’s Square (where the hotel is) is another “must do” in most of the tour books. Long before the arrival of tourists, it served as the religious, commercial, and political hub of the city. Today, Saint Mark's Square is still the heart of the city, with luxury hotels, expensive cafes, extravagant seafood, and trendsetting shops. Evenings during tourist season include atmospheric lighting and live music setting a romantic mood. Not so much here in November but there were a few things going on. Rather than the outrageously priced cocktails, we’d ventured down a recommended side street of the San Marco quarter, where there were more affordable options, but that was after the tour. During the day there were stalls selling souvenirs, bags (including knock-offs), and other items at surprisingly reasonable prices (according to Sadie who’d been doing her research). She purchased a classy looking leather purse that would last her years if she took care of it. Lev wanted to know if I wanted one and I reminded him that I normally kept my wallet on a chain when we were back home. He laughed, the hamster relaxed, and I fell victim to buying yet another scarf. Oy. Where the heck am I going to put all these things?!
Next stop was in front of Fandaco di Tedeschi. It was once headquarters of the German merchant community in Venice. It is a huge building. Today it has transformed into one of Venice's largest shopping centers, specializing in high-end luxury goods. Thankfully we weren’t there to shop but to get to the rooftop for the views. The 4th-floor Event Pavilion serves as an exhibition space and grants free access to the terrace, affording one of the best panoramas of the Grand Canal, a downward view of the Rialto Bridge, and a distant glimpse of Saint Mark's Basilica – quite a different angle from what you can see at ground-level and that is what Lev was after.
After the view from above, I was better prepared for when we actually went to the Rialto Bridge. There are only four bridges in Venice spanning the Grand Canal, and the Rialto is the most famous. It is also the oldest. Originally constructed of wood in the 12th century, it was later replaced by the current stone version four centuries later. Until the construction of the Accademia bridge in 1854, it was the sole pedestrian crossing over the Grand Canal.
Even though it was the off-season, the bridge was busy and full of people. Despite that it was worth the effort to get out onto it and to the edge. We got a spectacular view of the canal opening in both directions. I even managed to get all the crew into a selfie at the same time. That picture is now the background on my tablet. Beyond the souvenir stalls are the centuries-old markets that traditionally showcase the abundance of fruits and vegetables harvested on the lagoon islands, as well as the fish freshly caught in the bordering Adriatic Sea. We even saw a few boats unloading their daily catch from the islands of Burano and Pellestrina.
Nov 11 - Day 60: Iconic St. Mark's & Doge's Palace (Part 2)
At this point even I was starting to think of the nibbles and snacks I had in my backpack, but we didn’t have to resort to them because our next stop was the Rialto Food Market[4]. The market overlooks the Grand Canal and has since as early as the 11th century. Another distinct feature is the creative product signage crafted by the grocers. These signs not only provide information about the origin and price of what they are selling, but also offer detailed characteristics and sometimes even cooking tips, all presented in a very artistic style, both colorful and practical; something I could get behind.
At the market you can buy flowers, spices, seasonal produce, fresh meat and seafood. The people in our group made a game out of identifying some of the fish. The salmon was an easy one but there was plenty of exotic stuff too such as the cuttlefish used for the black ink pasta famous in Venice. There was plenty of shellfish to add to the game. Everyone was encouraged to try different things. While it was mostly a fresh market for locals there were vendors selling prepared food. We had to stay away from the bakeries though I could have climbed face first into some of the cakes. We got a plate of Risi E Bisi (peas and rice) to split. Thank goodness I always keep our sporks in my backpack just in case. Lev and Benny shared the Venetian version of Shrimp and Grits only they call it Polenta E Schie, and Sadie and I shared a plate of Frito Misto … fried seafood. Nom, nom, nom. Several of our group members also had glasses of wine. I looked at Lev, but he shook his head and said, “Not while I’m working.”
The food held us as we walked to the Basilica of Glorious St. Mary of the Friars. The Frari Basilica, located slightly off the beaten path, was founded by the Franciscan order in the late 13th century. It is one of Venice’s largest buildings. With its brick bell tower it is the second tallest after Saint Mark's. It is also one of the three Venetian churches to retain a Gothic appearance – plain on the outside, including the façade but with an interior that will knock your socks off. Few buildings in Venice can rival the Frari in terms of housing multiple first-rate works by Titian (even I know who that is). His grave is in the church; he died in 1576 of the plague when he was 90. He was the only plague victim allowed a church burial. The church also has a lot of beautiful woodwork, including a 15th-century choir (what some people call a choir loft), and several extravagant tombs.
We walked by several more sites and then it was time for a surprise, or it was a surprise to me. We were going on a gondola ride. I remembered the one that Lev and I had been on in Las Vegas at the Venetian Hotel and had to smile at the memory. We’d come a long way since then.
Here’s what I learned from our gondolier who wasn’t your typical specimen as this was a special ride arranged to promote the traditional gondoliers who are dying out:
Opinions differ as to the origin of the word “Gondola.” What is known is that the name first appeared in some documents dating back to 1094. The gondola itself seems to have arisen out of necessity in the early days of Venice; there were not many bridges to cross the water from one side of the city to the other. According to legend, these were boats originally made of tree trunks, only much later did gondolas develop their features and shape: a shallow hull with a pointed prow and an inverted stern. This design makes them ideal for navigating narrow channels and tight corners. As time went on, these boats became more and more elaborate and ornate. Eventually they became highly valued as a symbol of wealth and status, and only the wealthiest citizens could afford them. Nobles and the upper middle class embellished them with designs and inlays, covering them with silk and satin. Even the tails of the gondoliers were decorated in gold.
The present shape was achieved in the 17th century. Initially gondolas were steered by two men, each with an oar, later variations sought to make them easier to use by a single oarsman. Despite its considerable length, the gondola is a very maneuverable boat due to its flat bottom and little submerged hull, it is in fact suitable even for the narrow Venetian canals.
Along the canals of Venice, today it is very common to hear the voices of gondoliers with their typical calls alerting other colleagues that they are turning into a narrow rio. The stereotype of the singing gondolier is mostly out of Hollywood. You can hire musicians to serenade you but it is expensive.
Two hundred years ago, there were 10,000 gondolas in Venice. Although the aristocracy preferred horses to boats through the early Middle Ages, beginning in the 14th century, when horses were outlawed from the streets of Venice, the noble class embraced gondolas as their preferred form of transportation. The boats became the way to get around the lagoon's islands and their shifting sandbars. During the Age of Decadence, wannabe Casanovas would enjoy trysts in gondolas. Part of the gondolier's professional code was to never reveal what happened under the canopy of his little love boat.
Although black is the official color, many gondolas are ornately decorated and have comfortable seats and blankets. Most gondoliers will speak some English and maybe a little German or French but don’t think you are going to carry on a conversation with them or get an in depth commentary during your ride. Many canals are bumper to bumper traffic and require their full attention.
Just like the gondolas have official colors, the gondoliers have a uniform. They must wear black pants, a striped shirt, and closed dark shoes. They usually have a banded straw hat but don't always wear it. In busier areas where they know the next boatload of tourists is waiting to hand over their money, gondoliers may try to cut the ride short instead of rowing the full 40 minutes. This is a good reason to choose a gondola away from the most congested areas.
The gondola let us off right at the hotel and I was thankful. We didn’t really have much packing to do but we have an early morning train ride to Florence, and I need to prep for the itinerary … as In Florence, Italy. Oh my.
[1] Cyclorama: The Big Picture
[2] More Than a Womanizer: The History Behind the Real Casanova
[3] Galileo - Telescope, Quotes & Discoveries
[4] The market of Rialto in Venice. Fruit, vegetables, fish and opening hours Rialto market 2025
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It is dark right now so no pic but might try tomorrow morning to see if the camera is up and running.
This is from four months ago
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Thank you very much 
.
.
Nov 12 - Day 61: Food of Florence
Wowzer! Florence, Italy. It is as beautiful as the pictures make it out to be. And about ten degrees warmer here than it was in Venice. We took the high-speed rail from Venice to Florence and it only took two hours and thirteen minutes. We were dropped off by one guide and picked up by the one meeting us who got us a transfer to the hotel where we are staying for the next three nights, the Hotel Bernini Palace. Yep, another former palace. This one is real close to this famous museum called the Uffizi and boy was Sadie excited. She got Benny excited as she explained what the place was and the fact we are going there tomorrow has both of them watching a “dock-mentary” tonight on Sadie’s tablet.
As soon as you walk into the lobby you know you are in some really posh place. I was just hoping that the rooms weren’t so posh we’d have a hard time sleeping. We arrived too early to check in to see our rooms but they took our luggage for storage and our guide took us on a “foodie tour”. I didn’t expect much but it wasn’t bad at all, and we got to see some of the sights at the same time.
We started at the Central Market. Dating back to the 19th century, it is divided into two distinct areas. The covered section is dedicated to all things food, while the outdoor area extends onto the surrounding streets, offering a variety of leather goods, clothing, and affordable souvenirs, including leather coats, jackets, and purses at great prices. Guess who got a new scarf? I know I shouldn’t complain but I just feel a little silly I guess.
We also tried some street food. Some of it anyway. I’m semi-adventurous where food is concerned but I just couldn’t do a Tripe Sandwich even though it is one of the most popular dishes in Florence. Uh uh. I did try an obscene number of flavors of gelato. I got Lev to try the Affogato which is espresso with gelato. I would have been in a food coma with one bite. We all tried a tray of Tagliare … basically a low-carb, gluten-free panini minus the bread. Thin slices of cured meats, pecorino cheeses (sheep’s milk cheese made in Tuscany), and olives and all yum. I was surprised as heck to find gluten-free pizza options at another vendor. This isn’t your American pizza at all. The slices are square and over half of them don’t even have red sauce. We got several different flavors and I thought Lev and Benny were going to need a bib as they had to go back and get seconds. Of course, we had to get arancini in a couple of different flavors of fillings. And our guide found us some gluten-free cannolis, oh my gosh, even better than any of the others we’ve tried.
And what is Italy without their wine. I don’t drink but I know other people, including Lev, enjoy it and I’m not judging them. Our guide took our group to this place called Alessi. It reminded me of home, or at least the name did because that is the name of a brand of Spanish items we always bought. Different though. Alessi is an 'enoteca', a shop selling regional wines. But they had more than just that. While Lev stuck with the main body and tried the wines, I took Benny and Sadie and looked at the other stuff … small bottles of 100% juices, biscotti, caramelle, and cioccolatini. There was also olive oils, jams, aged balsamic vinegars, and much more. I looked at Sadie and Benny and told them to pick out a juice and they grinned widely because they knew I was trying not to be a scrooge about the prices. We’ve got the per diem, I guess we better use it or someone in accounting might think we don’t need it.
I got a bottle of peach juice, Sadie picked up a pineapple juice, and Benny, after checking all the labels and having me translate whether it had red dye of some type picked blueberry juice. I also picked Lev up a bottle of Estathè Lemon with is “lemon’d tea”. And then I doubled down and had them pick a second bottle so they could have some tomorrow. Yes, they were all over that. And Sadie was running short on her dark chocolate, so I threw in a couple of bars of 75% dark chocolate and she got that shark-eyed look like she had in Africa. Benny took one look and added two more bars. Young Padawan is learning early and well. ROFL.
I came back to the front to find that Lev had ordered a few things to be shipped home with an appreciation gift to Pei. I opened my mouth to say we didn’t need it but then stopped. That’ was a conversation to be had in private. And we did talk tonight, and Lev reminded me we haven’t been doing much of that this time around and are already “making bank” and a few luxuries that will definitely be used aren’t going to break us. I let it go because he said next time he wouldn’t surprise me like that so it wouldn’t stress the penny-pinching hamster. Plus, I didn’t want to be a hypocrite after buying the juice and chocolate. For my part I explained that it wasn’t my penny pinching so much as I was guarding the money he was bringing in so that during off-assignment periods there are the resources so he wouldn’t have to work himself ragged. I guess this marriage stuff will be a work in progress for the duration; and I’m okay with that so long as we don’t beat each other up over things. We worked it out but I’m glad I remembered to have the conversation without an audience.
After Alessi we stuck our heads in this place called Caffe Gilli[1] that was established in 1733, but moved to its present site in 1910. It was worth a look inside even if we didn’t buy anything. It had wood, marble, a frescoed ceiling, and glass glinting in the light of Murano[2] chandeliers. For those that don’t know, Murano is a famous decorative glass brand. We were about to leave when I noticed Lev talking to the manager and looking a little embarrassed. That normally means that his work was unexpectedly noticed. Rather than make a fuss Lev said he’d take a picture of the staff – almost all of them long time employees – in front of the bar and the manager for his part insisted on providing our group with their renowned hot chocolate. Holy smokes. It was thick, almost resembling liquid pudding, topped with whipped cream, and available in various flavors such as almond, orange, coffee, gianduia, and cocoa. Lev also got a box of an assortment of cakes, fruit tartlets, and 'millefoglie', which consists of layers of puff pastry filled with decadent vanilla or chocolate Chantilly cream. He and Benny couldn’t eat the stuff, but Lev didn’t want to be rude. He gave them to the guide to share out later in the day.
To walk off the high-calorie chocolate we headed to another market, this one called Sant’Ambrogio[3]. This one has been around since 1873 (the oldest in Venice), and is a local favorite, mostly for their fresh fruits and veggies. The vendors were very friendly and even laughed good naturedly at my attempt at speaking Italian. I picked up some fruit to take back to the hotel room with us. We were on our own for dinner and I wanted possibilities and not just high-priced cafes, or bottles of juice no matter how tasty.
We stopped by several other cafes and markets and sampled a few things here and there. After the last stop It was back to the hotel for dinner, though how anyone could eat even more I was clueless, and then an early night. It was already dark, and we were told that an unaccompanied walk late at night in F isn’t recommended. Not a problem because Lev needed some time to edit and I really needed to do some research on our future Itinerary.
The hotel description says it is just a short walk to Galleria degli Uffizi, Ponte Vecchio and Piazza della Signoria as well as popular streets like Via Tornabuoni. All spots on our walking tours so hopefully we won’t have to deal with vans or anything. I know one day we will but that’s because we are going outside the city. Sadie is really bouncing in anticipation, and because she is Benny is. We’ll see how long this plays out. She’s a good sport about all the attention Benny pays to her, but then again, maybe she needs someone to look up to her instead of down.
[1] Caffè Gilli
[2] Murano Glass - Buy Online | OFFICIAL Store - MuranoGlassItaly
[3] The Oldest Market in Florence – Mercato sant'ambrogio
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
I like the more about the family, thank you.
Nov 13 - Day 62: Museums, Museums, Museums
Both Sadie and Benny are museum’d out. We started the day with a very quick breakfast of fruit and yogurt while we waited for the rest of our small group to arrive and finish their espresso shots. As soon as we were all finished, we headed out for more walking. Hooray! First place our guide took us to was the Florence Cathedral. We’d seen some stuff from afar during our tour yesterday, but nothing like we got today.
The Duomo Cathedral is a Renaissance masterpiece known for its masonry dome, which holds the distinction of being the largest in the world. It’s what everyone thinks of when they think of Florence. Completed in 1465, this double-shell structure is an incredible feat of engineering and entirely self-supporting. The construction took nearly 170 years, starting in 1296. The architectural engineer who took over in the mid-1400s is the person that really made it happen. In fact, he had to invent things to conquer the project that had been deemed impossible by most people. One of his notable inventions was a system of machines specifically designed to lift enormous stones and hoist the immense weight of over 37,000 tons of materials, including more than 4 million bricks. And guess what? The guy’s name was Brunelleschi but do you know who his apprentice was? Leonardo da Vinci, I kid you not.
Inside the Dome, just before the presbytery, on the left aisle wall, is the famous fresco "Dante and the Divine Comedy". Created in 1465 this painting portrays Dante (1265-1321) holding a copy of his renowned "Divine Comedy", depicting the entrance to Hell, the seven terraces of Mount Purgatory, and the spheres of Heaven above. The fresco also includes depictions of Florence as it appeared in the 15th century, even though Dante himself could never have seen these scenes during his lifetime. This makes the painting a valuable historical artifact and I made sure to make myself a note to include it in the kids’ portfolios. I’m falling behind on that and have a lot of catch up that needs to happen. I also included how we reached the close-up view … by ascending approximately 450 steps on the narrow and winding staircase that circles the Dome's interior. Our tickets also included access to the top of the dome. We stepped out – yes, Sadie and I had Benny firmly bookended, to enjoy a panoramic view of the city and the surrounding Tuscan countryside.
Unlike a lot of churches we’ve seen, the outside of the building is just as decorative as the inside. It resembles a work of painted art rather than solid stone. And the doors? They’re incredible. I don’t think even Goliath could knock them down.
The next sites couldn’t top the Duomo, but they were just as interesting, each in their own way. The famous Bell Tower of Giotto is a standalone belfry that belongs to the Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral. It is named after the painter and architect who designed it … Giotto de Bondone. Soaring to a height of 85 meters, it was decorated with sculptures and marble embellishments.
Exploring the interior of the tower is possible, and since the guide encouraged everyone, we all did this one as it was supposedly the easiest of the three such tall structures in Florence to climb. Despite the 414 steps, the staircase is designed to allow for rest stops along the way. Each level within the tower houses a large bell, totaling seven bells—one for each musical note. Unlike the crowded spaces of the Duomo Cathedral and the Arnolfo Tower in the Old Palace (or "Palazzo Vecchio"), the resting areas within the Giotto Tower are relatively spacious and offer remarkable views of the city. From the very top, we saw the Cathedral's dome and the Baptistery of San Giovanni from a unique perspective. Lev was clicking away having a blast and I decided to take pictures of him to remind me why I really do all of this even when it takes me outside my comfort zone.
After the bell tower, we hit our first real museum of the day; Bargello National Museum. It occupies a medieval fortress – something I found as interesting as the artwork within it. It is also known as the People's Palace ("Palazzo del Popolo") and is one of the city's oldest structures, dating back to 1255. Throughout its history, the building has served various purposes. Initially, in the 16th century, it was the Chief of Police’s office, that’s where it got its name. Later, the Bargello Fortress became as a prison until the mid-19th century, when it was transformed into a museum showcasing Gothic and Renaissance sculptures. The only two artists that I reconized the names of were Michelangelo and Donatello. Lev and I tried not to laugh because of course few people would get the reference. Certainly Benny and Sadie had no clue about teenage mutant ninja turtles and I wasn’t going to be the one to enlighten them, I’d sound crazy.
Apart from the Renaissance treasures, the museum also has rare artifacts from the Byzantine, Roman, and Medieval eras. A few of the crew I grew up with would have just called it “old crap,” but I’m finding that maybe, just maybe, I’m not too rude and crude for some of these edumacation and historical stuff, not an embarrassment to Lev and the kids. So there. Anyway, there are some jewelry pieces of European Renaissance and Islamic origins. To enhance the visitor experience, all exhibits are accompanied by English descriptions. Among the museum's prized possessions are masterpieces by Michelangelo, including Bacchus, Pitti Tondo (or "Madonna and Child"), Brutus, and David-Apollo. The Bacchus is eye catching, I’ll give you that. It has eyes that seem to roll, his staggering body appearing on the verge of toppling off the rocky pedestal on which he stands. Michelangelo carved Bacchus when he was only 22 years old.
From the fortress we went to Signoria Square, another key attraction in the city. Our guide boasted it had the “finest assemblage of outdoor statues.” Er, okay. At least I understood his vocabulary in spite of the thick Italian accent. There is a replica where the original of Michelangelo’s original “David” one stood. The square has been a central location in the city since the Roman times when it was just a small town called Florentia. Back then, it was surrounded by a theater, a complex of Roman baths, and a textile workshop. Over time, a church, a loggia, and an enormous 5th-century basilica were added, as revealed by archeological excavations carried out in the 1980s during the square's repaving. The square is a favorite of photographers and Lev was no exception.
The nearby Old Palace ("Palazzo Vecchio") still serves as the seat of municipal government. Adjacent to it, just a short distance away, stands the equally impressive "Lanterns' Lodge ("Loggia dei Lanzi"). Functioning as an open-air museum, this lodge is almost always accessible to the public free of charge and displays yet another impressive collection of statues, including the renowned "Rape of the Sabine Women", "Hercules and the Centaur", and a bronze "Perseus".
Navigating through the crowd was a challenge despite it being the off-season so I can’t imagine what it must be like at other times. Our guide said it is easier to cross the square at a slight diagonal approach rather than attempting a direct path, this way you avoid too many people heading in opposite directions from the way you want to go. By maneuvering like a yacht tacking against the wind – moving slightly to the right, then to the left, and so on – you can easily slide into the gaps as they appear. Easy-peasy!
Yet another museum is the Old Palace, or Palazzo Vecchio. It is a large, Romanesque-style palace and has served as the office of the Florence mayor since 1872. Prior to that, since its construction in 1299, it was the seat of Florentine government for centuries. When Cosimo I de' Medici (yep, that notorious Medici family) became the Grand Duke and moved in with his family in 1540, he decided to enlarge and renovate the Medieval building in Renaissance style. The outside of the building has shields recounting the city's political history, and it is also embellished with a series of sculptures, including famous works such as Michelangelo's "David", the heraldic lion known as "Marzocco", Donatello's original "Judith and Holofernes", and "Hercules and Cacus".
Inside are things like the grand Hall of the Five Hundred ("Salone dei Cinquecento") designed to celebrate the Duke's glories and victories, to the family’s private quarters. All the ceilings were painted or decorated in some way. I nearly got a crick in my neck and was afraid of running into things in front of me when I was so busy looking up. Our tour also included the famous "studiolo" with its secret doors. Pretty cool history.
In the central niche at the southern end of the grand hall ("Salone dei Cinquecento") were Michelangelo's marble group, "The Genius of Victory" (1533-1534). Originally intended for Julius II's tomb, this sculpture represents an allegory of triumph rather than depicting a moment of battle. It portrays a victorious figure dominating a submissive captive. I found it a little disturbing for some reason including that the “victorious” person was young and obviously fit while the “captive” was an old guy in ill health. Ugh. I know it was an allegory, but still. Another weird-to-me piece is there was a death mask of Dante prominently displayed between the Apartments of Eleanor and the Halls of Priors.
If our heads weren’t spinning enough, we were about to hit the museum of all museums. Lev had already had to change memory cards multiple times and I think he changed it at least once in this place; the Uffizi.
The Uffizi is in a structure built in the 16th century for Cosimo Medici, the first Duke of Florence. Not only did it serve as a governmental building, but it also became an ideal space to house the Medici family's art collection. Since 1765, the gallery has been open to the public and has grown to become one of Florence's most popular tourist attractions. There are a lot of famous “must see” art pieces in the Uffizi and even I knew of some of them. Two of them I remembered from my brief, painful attempt at college: Botticelli's "Birth of Venus" and "Adoration of the Magi". There were also works by Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo just to name two. I will admit here that the hamster managed to lose track of time while we wander around.
While paintings and sculptures are the main draw of the museum, the gallery's interior decoration, particularly the ceilings, also get their fair share of attention. There are over 50 rooms to explore, and it was challenging to absorb everything. In fact I know I didn’t and I don’t think anyone else did. Lev even got hung up in the on-site café taking pictures of the views that apparently you can’t get any place else. It wasn’t easy, our guide told us there is never a time when the museum isn’t busy so you are always trying to maneuver around people. About like the Louvre in that respect.
Another bit shared by our guide was about Michelangelo. During the first eight years of the 1500s, Michelangelo not only sculpted his iconic "David" and the "Bruges Madonna" but also chiseled seven additional sculptures and four smaller statues for an altar. He also accepted painting commissions, and one of his works displayed in the Uffizi is the "Doni Tondo" ("Holy Family"), completed in 1504. It is a round-shaped painting nearly four feet in diameter and portrays the Virgin Mary, the Christ Child, and St. Joseph. He used bright colors to make each detail stand out. The info wasn’t really on the painting itself, but on how the painting was used. There is a debate that Michelangelo used the painting to defend the Maculist perspective, a philosophy of the Dominican order that rejects the concept of the Immaculate Conception of Mary. According to the Maculist view, Mary's sanctification occurred at the moment of Christ's incarnation, rather than at her birth. Thus, the image depicts the moment of Mary's sanctification, as the Christ Child blesses her. Michelangelo portrays Christ as if he is emerging from Mary's shoulder to take human form, with one leg hanging limply and the other not visible, emphasizing his integration with Mary.
I will admit all of that is above my pay grade. I know what I believe. I can even tell you why I believe as I do. But not a lot of my why has to do with those kinds of beliefs but instead are because of my own experiences. When I was little my Abuela had a sister that came to visit. She’d “married well” and there was something about her I didn’t like but I loved my Abuela, and she loved her sister, so when I felt the hamster go feral (not that I recognized it that way back then) I would just take off rather than hurt Abuela. A lot of the time I would just dive into the water and swim home. Even as young as I was I was a fish and knew how to get home. The sister started saying that I had to be possessed, that it was the only thing that explained my wildness. She even offered to pay for me to be sent to a special religious school so the demons could be expelled and I could be normal. She made the mistake in saying that in front of Dad towards the end of her visit and the flying monkeys started seriously skirmishing.
Lawrence told me all of a sudden I took off running and dived off the dock and they thought I was simply running away again but Dad must have seen something because he started yelling, “No! No! No, no, no!! Gus!!!!”
I honestly don’t even remember I was so young, but Lawrence swears that Dad was in the kayak almost before my Sunday dress could get soaked through. That’s when Lawrence saw the big alligator slapping his tail against a log on the other side of the river. In no time we were back on dry land and Dad was leaning against a post shaking but it was a moment before people realized he was trying not to laugh. Apparently he didn’t want to encourage me. No one understood what I was muttering and in a royal snit about until I stood in front of Abuela’s sister and handed her a very wet and cowed dog that she loved more than good sense. No one liked that dog because it was a nasty bit of spoiled obnoxiousness. It was always barking at people. Occasionally I would bark back at it and it never seemed to know what to make of that beyond running and hiding behind Abuela’s sister.
All of maybe three years old I tossed the dog at her and told her, “Mutant poodles do NOT belong in the ribber. Gators and turtles could eat him up and make you cry.”
The story then goes that I ran to Abuela, gave her a big wet hug and said, “Love ya, Gotta go. Things to do! Come back later to take the garbage down!” And then went running and hopping like a lunatic energizer bunny back to the house to do whatever three-year-olds think is important.
Dad and Lawrence followed me home at a more sedate pace, but Lawrence told me that’s why when Abuela’s sister came to visit after that I went to go stay with Grandfather and Grandma Barry. It’s also why every year at Christmas until Abuela moved away, I would get a package with a new cross necklace in it. The cross was made out of different kinds of wood, usually olive wood, and was on a leather thong rather than a metal chain. I never have figured out if the old lady was saying thank you in her own way or trying to ward off demons or something. I don’t suppose it really matters. Even when I was young I recognized that the crosses were pretty and since they were on leather thongs I could wear them whenever I wanted to, usually to church with my grandparents.
One of these days I’ll tell that story to Benny and give him one of those crosses. Yep, I still have them. They stay in my treasure box. When I was older I asked Lawrence what happened to Abuela’s sister and he said she died a year after Abuela. I think sometimes of how my life might have been different if Dad hadn’t refused to send me away, whether to a religious school or not. Of how his life might have been different, would he have lived longer. Then I tell the hamster to shut up because if God had really wanted me sent away nothing could have stopped it from happening so I took that to mean I grew up the way I was supposed to and that made it so I could raise Benny because God knew what other things were going to happen in this life. Sometimes you just have to accept things, have faith, even if you can’t always explain it in a way that other people understand.
Ugh, what on earth made that memory come out of hiding?! The thinks I think sometimes even confuse the hamster.
When everyone was about as museum’d as they could handle, our guide took us to Ponte Vecchio, also know as The Old Bridge. The first time the bridge appeared in documents was in 996 AD. Of all the six local bridges crossing the river Arno, it was the only one spared by the retreating Germans in 1944. Yes, it is just that old and still lined with shops the way many bridges were in the Middle Ages. It currently occupied by jewelers, art dealers and souvenir sellers, whereas its original tenants were all butchers who habitually dumped rotten animal carcasses straight into the river below. That was the case until the 16th century when Grand Duke Fernandino I de' Medici demanded that all the butcher shops were replaced by goldsmiths – thus not only did he rid the bridge of its rotting stench, but also turned it into the most golden spot in Italy.
Our guide also took us to a vantage point where we could see an upper level that hides a secret; a long tunnel connecting the Pitti Palace with the Old Palace. Historically, the tunnel provided a secure route for Duke Fernandino to move between the two palaces without most people knowing, especially whenever he felt uneasy in public.
One of the legends surrounding the bridge is it that the economic term "bankruptcy" originated right here when a money-changer who couldn't pay his debts, in punishment for his insolvency had his trading table physically broken by soldiers, so he could no longer sell anything. The table was called "banco", and thus the term "bancorotto" came into being. Today, the Old Bridge offers a delightful stroll, especially in the evenings, if not packed end to end with thousands of tourists traversing the river over its cobblestones.
We visited some other sites but I’m too blasted to record them. The Palazzo Piti (a Medici landmark), the Boboli Gardens, Fort Belvedere, and Michelangelo Square. We had a quiet dinner here at the hotel after returning. I didn’t care for the ritzy atmosphere but it wasn’t because of the food or service so much as because I knew our crew needed to wind down.
The kids have gotten suspiciously quiet, I better go check on them and make sure their tablets are on the charger. Lev Is nearing face plant state. I’m still a little wired. I love all the walking that we are doing. I’m energized. Tomorrow we are going to be on a bus going to Tuscany for the whole wine tour thing. The kids and I will make do but after that we are going to Pisa … as in the leaning tower … before coming back to the hotel. Sadie wants to try and take a photo that makes it look like we are holding the tower up. Lev isn’t just humoring when he said he’ll try and make it happen so long as the crowds don’t get in the way. You should have seen her face light up.
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Many thanks Kathy.
Nov 14 - Day 63: A Day of Wine & Olive Oil Tasting
Had to get back on a bus today. Not too bad. Wasn’t really a bus anyway, more of an oversize van. We did get some walking in, so it wasn’t awful. And it isn’t like I could have hiked where we went so I need to stop “opining” as Meemo would have said.
A quick fruit and yogurt breakfast along with cappuccino for those who wanted, and we were on a bus and driving outside the city and through the Tuscan countryside. First there were photo stops along the way then we wound up at this really old monastery called Badia de Passignano in what’s known as the Chianti Classico region. It is supposed to be where the local monks are known for their love of learning (Galileo taught here in 1587) and their cultivation of grapes. We toured the wine cellar to sample its famous Chiantis. I was clueless what the heck chianti was until I heard our guide of the day explain that a chianti is a particular Italian red wine made in the Tuscany region from Sangiovese grapes and is one of the oldest types of wine in the world. Okay. Glad to know. The kids and I abstained and they didn’t treat it like I was a weirdo or rude and instead assumed it was a dietary restriction. I let them go right on assuming rather than make an issue of it. Luckily Chianti is naturally gluten-free so Lev could have a taste. He reported that it was good, just not normally his style as it was a little bold. Ooookay. I gave up trying to figure that out when one of the women helping with tasting offered the kids and I wine glasses with straight grape juice. Was actually pretty good and obviously the real thing and not from concentrate with sugar or dyes added. I made sure to ask because while Benny isn’t nearly as bad as he used to be, I can be.
After the wine tasting we had lunch at a Medieval Abbey. No seriously, we did. It was called Osteria di Passignano[1]. I’m sorry but I couldn’t tell you what most of the stuff we ate was if you paid me. My main course was grilled tuna with something as a side dish but color me clueless. I refused to embarrass Lev and needed to set a good example for the kids, so I ate it without complaint or making faces. Even Sadie was cautious when she was served. But it was all delicious if it was somewhat of a mystery. We were all polite, but it isn’t some place I would have ever chosen. Too upscale for me and I felt a little under dressed and intimidated I confess. But so did some of our other group members if body language said anything. I was much more comfortable – figuratively speaking – in the after-lunch activity. It was olive oil tasting.
People take their olive oil seriously here in Italy. They taste it in these glasses that look like brandy snifters but are only the size of a shot glass. Man was this stuff fresh. I mean really fresh. It had this peppery feel in your throat after it went down but not harsh in your mouth.
“Er … Babe?”
I shrugged and grinned. “Look, I’ve worked in enough restaurants to know when they used the cheap stuff and when they used the expensive stuff. I also love me some seafood and can tell when it is prepared with the right ingredients. I also had to learn to be careful This? This is the best of the best stuff. No doubt about it.”
“So, that’s why you are really picky in the grocery.”
“I’m not picky. I’m careful. Oil is usually gluten-free. It’s that way naturally. But there are places that aren’t above adulterating whatever they are using. Way back in the dark ages when I cooked for my different crews we had people with different allergies. One kid who didn’t last long – his allergies would have made military service problematic – was allergic to nuts. You’d be surprised how much cooking oil gets mixed with peanut oil or gets messed up with nut meal somehow. I may not know wine, but I do know olive oil.” Then I chuckled. “Plus there was this place in Key West that did nothing but sell olive oil, some of it infused, and balsamic vinegar. They would sometimes let me have the dregs of their containers rather than mix any old and new batch together. It wasn’t much, but it did dress up some of the fish and stuff I managed to get for Benny to eat.”
That’s when I found out our tasting guide was going to play a game with us. I think it was to try and encourage us to buy something. We had to identify what an olive oil was infused with. The garlic was an easy one. So was the lime version. They got progressively more challenging. Blood orange. Cayenne Chili set my mouth on fire. The mojo was probably a cheat on my part because I’d spent my life in Florida. Butter infused was a new one on me, but it wasn’t impossible to figure out. The green peppercorn one cleared my sinuses. It was the black truffle that stumped me. I knew it was a mushroom or fungi of some type and then I remembered the flavor from one of the very expensive batches that was reserved for special customers. I got “truffle” correct but missed the “black” which let both the server and me walk away with some pride. I don’t even want to know how expensive that stuff is. Back in Key West it was over fifty bucks for this tiny bottle. Given everything that has happened since that time it could be twice that or more for all I know.
And then came the balsamic vinegars. There were even more varieties and some of them pretty exotic … and expensive. I was taste tested out by the end but having fun. I even walked Sadie and Benny through a few of them. I looked around for Lev and he was walking towards me like he was a little concerned about something.
“Er … I sent some of that balsamic to the drop point.”
I blinked then took a deep breath. “We’ll savor it. Did you get white or dark?”
“Er … yes.”
I knew what that meant but I refused to get upset. “Lev … I’m not going to bite your head off,” I whispered. “Admiral.”
He grinned then frowned. “Thank you, but I forgot to say anything before I sprang it on you.” That proved he listened to me.
“Yeah well, I’m … learning. Like you said, we’ll use it, and we haven’t really stocked up like last time. And the end of November is coming faster than I wanna count. I need to be getting on some plans.”
He slowly went back to grinning and all was right in our world again. If there was one thing I could change for Lev it would be that his self-esteem is great for everything except occasionally our relationship. I have what is called politely a “strong personality” and I know I need to watch it. He never makes me diminish myself to be with him. I need to not take his easygoing nature for granted.
After everyone finally got out of the gift shop and back on the bus, van, or whatever you want to call that thing, we headed to Pisa, home of the famous leaning tower.
On the way there our tour guide told us the history of the tower and of Pisa in general. I’m going to paraphrase him simply because it is easier. The Leaning Tower of Pisa is the most famous freestanding bell tower in the world. It was built between 1173 and 1372 as a companion to the Pisa Cathedral. The ground floor features a blind arcade with Corinthian columns. The second floor was added in 1178, and the tower began to sink in the soft, sandy soil. Construction was then halted for almost a century as the Republic of Pisa engaged in battles with their neighbors. Construction restarted in 1272, and the upper floors were built with one side taller than the other to compensate for the already leaning tower. Finally, in 1319, the seventh floor was completed, and the bell tower was added in 1372.
This next part I’m adding into Sadie and Benny’s portfolio. Between 1589 and 1592, the famous Galileo Galilei (then professor of mathematics at the University of Pisa) dropped two spheres of different masses from the Leaning Tower of Pisa to demonstrate that their time of descent was independent of their mass (maffs makes my head hurt). Galileo discovered through this experiment that the objects fell with the same acceleration, proving his prediction true, while at the same time disproving Aristotle's theory of gravity which states that objects fall at speed proportional to their mass.
The tower has survived at least four major earthquakes. The combination of the height of the tower and the soft soil helped it resist earthquake damage. In more recent years, efforts have been made to stabilize the tower and stop it from toppling over; it meant closing the tower between 1990 and 2001. At that time, the tower was leaning at a 5.5-degree angle (15 feet). In 1990, the bells were removed to take away some of the weight of the building. Cables were added to the third level and anchored hundreds of feet away. Counterweights were added in 1993. Engineers worked to reduce the tilt by shifting soil from underneath the tower and managed to return it to the 1838 tilt level. The Leaning Tower now leans by 97 degrees, or 12 feet 10 inches.
In other words, it ain’t falling any time soon unless an earthquake finally gets it. It still makes for a crazy climb as you have to go round and round inside it. There were 251 steps up and a fantastic view from the top. One whoopsy was that they set off the bells (now put back where they came from) while we were up there and I came down half deaf. And yes, Lev managed to set his camera and get all four of us in one frame doing the cheesy "holding up the tower" photo. He also took some of Sadie and Benny individually. Then it was back to the hotel with a boxed meal on the way as dinner. Not bad … for us it was a panini on gluten free bread.
Now I’m doing inventory of all our hygiene items and coming up short but hopefully the hotel in Rome will have either pump bottles or small sizes in the hotel bathroom. That’s right happy camper, we are off to Rome tomorrow. This is an incredible assignment we’ve been on. I can’t imagine anything topping this experience. From an African safari to Sadie becoming part of our crew to the UK and now to the Mediterranean. And we aren’t finished yet. I don’t want to get ahead of myself but I have a lot of research to do so I’m going to close this log entry and get to doing my part in all of this.
[1] https://www.osteriadipassignano.com...iu-21-Menu-Osteria-di-Passignano_engtesto.pdf
sssarawolf
We're just plugging along.
Thank you .
.
Nov 15 - Day 64: The Glories of Imperial Rome (Part 1)
I’m pretty much blasted. Not from the local vino, but just from life on this assignment. I never really thought to say, “Hey, yeah, we went to Rome.” Pei made me promise to have a good time. I don’t think I’m going to have a problem keeping that promise.
Very early this morning we took the high-speed rail from Florence to Rome and it only took an hour and a half. I’m liking the whole ride-a-train thing. Better than driving in buses that’s for sure. We were met by our guide at the Rome station and he took us directly to our hotel, the Regina Baglioni in the heart of the city, where we signed in our luggage and then got going on an all day walking tour of Rome. Supposedly there was a package from Tommi there as well but Lev said not to worry about it and knew what it was. I figured it was business stuff and let it go because our guide was hustling us to get started on the small group tour.
There’s a Rome in Alabama, Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Maine, Mississippi, and Missouri. But none of those Romes are where we are. We are in freakin’ Rome, Italy y’all. Just thought I’d use the vernacular so Sadie wouldn’t be completely shocked when we get back to the River House. She thought it was a riot. I hope she continues to think kindly of the Southernese she is going to be exposed to once she’s been there a while.
All I can continue to say is wow. Wow, wow, wow. We only walked a distance of a little over two miles but this one couple in the group acted like it was 200 miles. They were my age for gosh sake. Thankfully the majority of the group stayed energetic the whole way. Our guide was really good and started out with an overview before we even got to the first point of interest. The name “Rome” originates from Romulus, the mythical founder of the city, who, according to legend, was the son of the war god Mars and Rhea Silvia, the priestess of this goddess named Vesta. Both, Romulus and his twin brother Remus were found by a she-wolf in a cave. She suckled them until a shepherd rescued the two. I sympathize with that story. I think people thought I’d been found under a river log and was part gator when I was little. And I’m only sorta kinda exaggerating.
The story continues that as adults, the brothers decided to establish a new town but quarreled over its location. The quarrel turned into a fight and Romulus killed Remus. Not exactly the moral you want to teach kids about how to solve disagreements. Romulus established the new town on the Palatine Hill, naming it after himself and reigning as its first king. The Hut of Romulus on the Palatine Hill lends credence to this legend so who knows what is true and what isn’t.
Rome's history stretches back over 2,500 years, beginning as an Iron Age village in 753 BC. In 509 BC, the Romans overthrew their last king and established a republic led by two annually-elected consuls. This form of government had a profound influence on how modern-day governments function. Over the centuries, Rome grew from a barely had it together city-state to the capital of an empire that dominated the Mediterranean by the 1st century AD. After the Roman Empire's fall in 476 AD, the city declined but rebounded during the Renaissance and Baroque periods. In 1870, Rome was declared the capital of unified Italy.
The guide had it timed just right because he had no sooner finished his history lesson that it was on to our first stop. Drumroll please … the Colosseum. The Colosseum is the largest ancient amphitheater ever built, covering over 28,000 square yards. Constructed between 69 and 80 AD by the Flavian dynasty, it was initially called the Flavian Amphitheater. Its modern name comes from the Colossus of Nero statue that once stood nearby.
Built on the land reclaimed from Emperor Nero’s landscaped Domus Aurea complex after the Great Fire of 64 AD, the Colosseum represented a gift to the Roman people under Emperor Vespasian. It was constructed using travertine, tuff, and concrete and was funded by spoils from the Jewish War. That fight which was fought in 70 AD, led to the Siege of Jerusalem. The Romans won and they brought back numerous prisoners who contributed to the massive workforce needed for the construction. The amphitheater comprised four tiers that could hold between 50,000 and 80,000 spectators at a time. The lowest tier was for the emperor and the royal family, the two middle ones were for the noble Romans and members of government, while the highest tier (aka the nosebleed section) was for the ordinary citizens.
The Colosseum hosted gladiatorial contests, animal hunts, and mythological reenactments. Events often featured exotic animals imported from Africa and the Middle East. Emperor Trajan's games, for example, involved over 11,000 animals and 10,000 gladiators over 123 days! The below-ground passages were used to bring men and animals into the arena, which was separated from the audience by a ditch. Occasionally, it was reportedly even flooded for naval battles. Executions were common during intervals, with the condemned facing wild beasts or acting out tragic myths.
Get this, during the Middle Ages the Colosseum served as a fortress and even a stone quarry. Passers-by would chip off pieces of it for souvenirs which, as well as some natural causes like earthquakes, led to its partial destruction. Only the north side of the building, as well as the underground passages, have survived intact. The original arena floor is totally gone.
The was a group of school kids there and they were getting on my last nerve. It is bad enough to have APD and trying to maintain situational awareness in a large crowd, but throw in a bunch of kids that don’t seem to appreciate things … grrr … and of course that had Benny starting to shut down as well … grrr. Then out of the corner of my eye I saw Sadie whispering to Benny and soon they were both laughing it up. I was going to ask what was up only the fieldtripers from hell distracted the hamster again. Then I caught Lev joining in only he decided to tell me instead of making me more irritated.
“Babe?”
“Hmph.”
“You kinda have that hungry Colosseum lion look on your face when you look at those other kids.”
It took a sec but I got it. I sighed. “Tell them it isn’t a lion but a hamster that is about to go man-eating and that I’ll try and calm down. It’s not Benny and Sadie … it’s … grrr.”
My growl set all three of them to snickering and all I could do was sigh, roll my eyes, and try and stick the irritation in a box to deal with later. I don’t know whether it helped or not but all three of my hyper crew decided it would be “cute” to think up something called the “hamster growl” for the rest of the day. They were poking the Gus but I admit that I had to laugh at it a few times. And of course that only encouraged them
I was more than glad to be leaving the school fieldtrippers and head to our next stop, the Arch of Constantine. On October 28, 312 AD, Roman emperor Constantine had an epic battle with his rival, co-emperor Maxentius. It went down in history as the Battle of the Milvian Bridge. Constantine won and became the sole ruler of the Roman Empire. He is generally regarded as the last great emperor of Rome. The Arch of Constantine, Rome’s largest triumphal arch, was dedicated in 315 AD to commemorate Constantine’s victory. Scholars have debated the arch's origins, suggesting it may predate Constantine and even have ties to Hadrian’s reign. The arch uses a blend of reused classical Greek-inspired elements and simpler, symbolic works. There are a ton of different decorative elements including a bunch of reliefs that are basically just propaganda explaining how Rome in general, and Constantine in particular, are great. One example of this credits Constantine with saving the Roman people by divine inspiration. It refers to his vision before the Battle of Milvian Bridge where he claimed to have seen a cross in the sky and heard the words: "In this sign, you will conquer." This event is often linked to Constantine's promotion of Christianity within the Roman Empire. The arch has had a lot of influence in other ways as well: the Arch of Triumph in Paris, the Marble Arch in London, Washington Union Station in Washington DC, and the American Museum of Natural History in New York City.
I was thinking about all of those I’d seen as we made our way to Palatine Hill. It is one of the city’s oldest and most historically significant areas, often called "the first nucleus of the Roman Empire," and is now a huge open-air museum. Good thing that Lev had asked me to carry so many extra memory cards for his camera because he already had to juggle a replacement while we walked.
Palatine Hill became the desirable location for the homes of Rome's wealthiest citizens during the Republican era. During the Imperial era, starting from the reign of Augustus, it was exclusive real estate for emperors where they had palaces like those of Augustus, Tiberius, and Domitian. The modern-day word “palace” is derived from the word “Palatine”.
Extensive archaeological excavations, dating back to Augustus’ time, have uncovered significant finds, including Bronze Age artifacts and the Palatine House, thought to be the birthplace of Emperor Augustus. Modern investigations have revealed frescoed walls and mosaics, along with the Lupercal, the cave at the southwest foot of the Palatine Hill, where Romulus and Remus were suckled by the she-wolf.
Whew, lotta history and a lot of trying to keep up with our guide while still giving Lev time to take his photos. I wound up shouldering his bag and his water so he could click away without worrying he was going to run into anyone or anything. Benny muled the snacks for everyone and I had Sadie keep up with the guidebook and itinerary we’d been given at the start of the tour. By spreading things out it made it easier on Lev to do his job though I admit a little initial guilt asking the kids to help out. When I mentioned it tonight they looked at me like the hamster was having a breakdown or something.
Nov 15 - Day 64: The Glories of Imperial Rome (Part 2)
The Palatine Hill took a while and then it was on to the Roman Forum. It started life as a simple marketplace around 500 BC eventually morphing into the epicenter of Roman political, social, and religious activity. Initially featuring early structures like the Regia (a royal residence) and the Temple of Vesta, the Forum eventually changed into a formal assembly area called the Comitium, where the Senate and government convened. Over centuries, temples, tribunals, and public buildings, such as the Senate House and the Temple of Saturn, transformed the Forum into a multifunctional hub. The Basilica Aemilia, built in 179 BC, expanded judicial activities, while Julius Caesar’s enhancements, including the Basilica Julia and Curia Julia, showed how important it was as a center for politics, commerce, and religion. Today, the Roman Forum is a sprawling ruin but remains a priceless historical treasure.
We left the ancient world behind for a while and headed to something built in more modern times. Well, modern compared to where we had come from anyway. The National Monument was constructed between 1885 to 1935. The neoclassical monument ‘s dimensions are imposing. And yes, I used a thesaurus for that one. The width is 443 feet and a height of 266 feet. The monument's key features include the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, inaugurated in 1921. Not as touching as other such memorials but did have the full-on grandeur thing down. It also has an eternal flame and is perpetually guarded by soldiers in special dress uniform. I was affected like I always am but I managed to keep it to myself this time and I don’t even think Benny noticed. I don’t want to think he is forgetting Lawrence but maybe it is a good thing that those feelings are mitigating. I’ll talk to Pei. She gives good thinks on stuff like that.
Only a short distance away was the Trevi Fountain, one of those “iconic landmarks” everyone says you must see. The fountain’s history dates back to 1629 when Pope Urban VIII commissioned it to be redesigned. It didn’t happen so later, Pope Clement XII organized a competition in 1730, but the fountain still wasn’t completed until 1762. The fountain was designed around an aqueduct that was there in 19 BC. According to legend, a virgin guided Roman engineers to the aqueduct’s source, an event depicted in the fountain’s bas-reliefs. The aqueduct, which survived the Gothic invasions and was restored during the Middle Ages, still supplies water to the fountain today. The Trevi Fountain is also known for the tradition of tossing coins, which promises a return to Rome. Popularized by the 1954 Hollywood film "Three Coins in the Fountain," visitors toss coins over their left shoulder with their right hand, generating daily about €3,000. This money, collected by municipal authorities, is donated to charity.
The hotel wasn’t far from Trevi Square so it was back we went. Only another day in Rome. I could honestly see staying a week just for the history alone. And the food, oh m’ gosh. Rather than eat in the hotel we stopped into a small hole in the wall and let me tell you, Italy is not just pasta. Lev and Benny ate a dish called Saltimbocca alla Romana. Basically it was veal medallions dressed in prosciutto and sage then sautéed in butter and white wine. Loosely translated it means “jump in the mouth” and yeah it did. Sadie had Cacio e Pepe which means cheese and pepper and that’s exactly what this dish is: pasta served with grated Pecorino Romano cheese (cacio) and black pepper (pepe). It looks easy to make but I was warned that it is notoriously difficult to prepare as the cheese can turn rubbery or clumpy if the ingredients aren’t mixed in the proper proportions. Doesn’t mean I won’t give it a try with gluten-free pasta when we are back at the River House but at least I’ll be prepared.
And what did yours truly eat? Porchetta. I’d been seeing them all day and the hamster was finally going to get what it wanted. It is a full, deboned pig – I didn’t eat the entire pig of course - which has been seasoned with herbs, wrapped in its rind, and cooked over a wood fire for several hours. Then it is thinly sliced and served on crunchy bread with nothing else. Poor folks food is what it is considered but geez it was like an Italian version of a Cuban sandwich with nothing else dressing it up. Yowzer. I don’t often eat stuff that Lev and Benny can’t have but they both encouraged me … and then said figure it out if I could make it back home. I’ve got ideas, oh yes I do. The trick is going to be making the bread just right. It is more Italian in text than Cuban but there is a bakery in Jacksonville that might be able to show me how to do it, or at least get it started.
Back in the hotel, blissfully full as a bunch of ticks, we checked in to our rooms and … holy moly. The exterior of the building reminded me of the “palaces” in other places including England. That said, you walked in and it was like going face first into pure luxury. If this had been the first fancy place I’d ever stayed I don’t know if I could have stood it but I must be getting used to this stuff I guess because I blinked but then just carried on so I wouldn’t look like a redneck with a couple of teeth missing and a rat’s tail hanging down over my overalls. And yes, I know that sounds awful but I mean it was like some ridiculous movie set of The Clampets Go To Rome or something. And for those that don’t know who the Clampetts are, don’t worry about it. The stupid theme song of the old show has been running through my head like an earworm for some reason.
~~~~~~~~~~
Come and listen to my story about a man named Jed
A poor mountaineer, barely kept his family fed,
And then one day he was shootin at some food,
And up through the ground come a bubblin crude.
Oil that is, black gold, Texas tea.
Well the first thing you know ol Jed's a millionaire,
The kinfolk said "Jed move away from there"
Said "Californy is the place you ought to be"
So they loaded up the truck and they moved to Beverly
Hills, that is. Swimmin pools, movie stars.
Old Jed bought a mansion, lordy it was swank
Next door neighbor's the president of the bank.
Lotta folks complaining but the banker found no fault
'Cause all Jed's millions, was a-sitting in the vault!
Redemption funds. Stocks and bonds.
Well now it's time to say good bye to Jed and all his kin.
And they would like to thank you folks fer kindly droppin in.
You're all invited back next week to this locality
To have a heapin helpin of their hospitality
Hillbilly that is. Set a spell, Take your shoes off.
Y'all come back now, y'hear?
~~~~~~~~~~
Oh my gosh I need to find something that is going to get rid of that song! Maybe I’ll break into the surprise that was in the package waiting on us. Lev is such a stinker. He told Tommi about the mini-block thing I had as a way to save me from being suffocated by all the scarves and she was on it like white on rice. And yes, I know that can be taken derogatorily but oh well. It just fits this time so there.
What was in the box? Mini block sets. A Trevi Fountain set that 654 pieces. A Leaning Tower of Pisa set that had 1700 pieces. There is a Venice main street set with 2155 pieces. And the biggy is the Colosseum set with 5594 pieces.
“Lev!”
He was grinning hugely when he said, “Relax Babe. You don’t have to put them together right now. Tommi just hooked us up with a sponsor from a toy shop.” I looked at him hard and he squeaked, “Not that kind of toy shop. You know … Lego, blocks, models … that kind of educational stuff.”
“Uh huh. And what’s this gonna cost us?”
“Nuthin’. Aw, don’t look like that. Babe I swear. Apparently they’re a friend of a friend and are trying to expand their customer base. They’re going for focused advertising and there’s noise of using some of our shows in the classroom.”
That time it was me that squeaked. “Whut?”
“Relax Babe. Sadie actually mentioned it.”
“When?” I asked as surprised with the who as I was with the what.
Apparently, your reports to Mr. Wright started the ball rolling, with you encouraging Sadie to include samples of her work just so it looks like she’s getting an education. Mr. Dutton then casually mentioned it to someone who mentioned it to someone else who then came back with questions, and it eventually got back to the bigwigs in our own marketing department and … all the other yada that goes with that kind of thing happening. And then one of the producers’ wives suddenly had a change of heart and is all in on board with home education and has agreed to oversee some possible lesson plans and … Babe? You, uh, look kinda … you know … green.”
Well, I suppose I’m over the shock. I can speak good adult when I need to and it’s not like I haven’t had to defend our choice to educate Benny, and now Sadie, the way we do … kinetically and experientially. I was just never looking to be a role model, and I hope they don’t turn this into anything other than what we are already doing. This is important to Lev. What he takes a picture of should be the story. I was never looking to be the story. Ugh. We’ll just have to see where this goes.
Tomorrow we are visiting Vatican City. I have no idea what to expect. But … the Sistine Chapel you know? And a piece of sculpture that Grandma Barry always dreamed of seeing in person … Pieta.
Nov 16 - Day 65: Vatican Early Access and After-Hours in the Sistine Chapel (Part 1)
Well, there really are gluten-free people living in Rome and plenty of bakeries that cater to them. When our guide found out yesterday just how serious we were about needing to eat gluten-free but not willing to put other people out over it, he told his mother who then insisted on telling a friend with a child with food allergies and word got back to our guide and … yeah, like playing telephone tag but he took us to a place over near The Vatican where we could get guaranteed gluten-free options. And … just wow. Lev insisted on doing some photos for them for gratis.
Sadie looked like a zombie after brains. She had a couple of croissants with something resembling Nutella squeezed into it. That girl does like her chocolate. Lev had a croissant as well only his was savory with thinly slice prosciutto and cheese on it. Benny begged for something sweet and I caved with the caveat that if he couldn’t keep the wiggles in check, he wouldn’t be seeing sugar again until he was forty-two. Either the threat worked or he’s outgrowing some of his food sensitivities because he was able to deal with it completely except for one time and that’s because another group of tourists was not following the rules. They didn’t do a whole lot for me either so I didn’t hold it against him, just kept us out of their sphere of influence. I was having a hard time deciding until I saw it. Leftover pizza. Cold leftover pizza. The woman behind the case offered to heat it up but no way. It is was sheer, unadulterated bliss. Cold pizza for breakfast. In Rome. Aw man that was good. Maybe not good enough to fly across the world for, but it as close. And I bought all they had left and stuffed it in my backpack for later.
Today we did the Vatican City. Did? Went to? Visited? I’ll have to leave that to the grammar techs but it was all three in my mind. We’d been warned ahead of time that we needed to dress modestly, a requirement for most churches and holy sites that we’d visited, and Lev was given a special permit to carry his large camera. We were still a few minutes getting through security but then again so was everyone else.
The Vatican is the world’s smallest sovereign state, as well as a symbol (and headquarters) of the Roman Catholic faith. Although only about 108 acres in surface, it was amazing how much they packed in there and the sheer size of everything, as well as the symbolism everywhere you looked. We started in St. Peter’s Square. It is a huge plaza in front of Saint Peter's Basilica. Both the square and the basilica are dedicated to Saint Peter, one of Jesus’s apostles, who is also regarded as the first Pope.
The plaza was designed 1656 and 1667 and was intended to maximize visibility for papal blessings. It has Tuscan colonnades that are four columns deep and comprise 284 columns and 88 pilasters. The colonnades encircle the oval-shaped plaza, symbolizing the "maternal arms of Mother Church." The square also has two matching fountains that represent the life-giving waters of the Christian faith. Besides being one of those architectural marvels we’ve seen a lot of on this assignment, today the square serves as a gathering space for important events and ceremonies within the Catholic Church. These attract millions of visitors every year.
Dominating the square's center is the Vatican obelisk, a red granite structure, rising to approximately 83 feet. Originally erected in Heliopolis, Egypt, it was moved to Rome by Emperor Caligula in 40 AD and was finally relocated to its current position in 1586. Transporting the obelisk was a challenging task, requiring the construction of special boats, known as "obelisk boats", designed specifically for the purpose. The Caligula obelisk was originally installed at the center of his circus, later known as the Circus of Nero. This site is now largely encompassed by Vatican City. The obelisk is decorated with bronze lions and a cross-topped Chigi family crest, has remained intact since antiquity. It serves as the plaza's focal point and symbolizes the triumph of Christianity over paganism.
Saint Peter was martyred in Rome in 64 AD under Emperor Nero. According to legend, he was crucified upside down, at his own request, deeming himself unworthy to die like Jesus. His crucifixion occurred in the Circus of Nero near the obelisk. In 1586, Pope Sixtus V ordered the obelisk relocated to its current position next to Saint Peter’s Basilica, as a symbolic gesture representing the triumph of Christianity over paganism. This monumental task took over 13 months of preparation and the use of 800 men, 160 horses, and 45 winches. The paving of the square includes travertine lines that radiate outward, breaking up the vast stone surface and in 1817, circular stones were added to transform the obelisk into a giant sundial, marking the sun’s position as it enters each zodiac sign.
A medieval legend held that the bronze globe atop the obelisk once contained the ashes of Julius Caesar or Trajan. During the obelisk relocation, the globe was removed and eventually placed in the Conservators' Palace in 1848. In 1740, a reliquary from Saint Peter’s Basilica was placed inside the cross.
From the square we got in line to enter St. Peter’s Basilica. In Italian it is called Basilica Papale di San Pietro in Vaticano. No matter what you call it, there’s a feeling to the place. Of age, of reverence, of something that doesn’t have a name, only a feeling. Despite not being the mother church of Catholicism or Rome's cathedral, Saint Peter's Basilica in the Vatican is one of Christianity's holiest sites. Tradition holds that Saint Peter, the first Bishop of Rome, is buried inside, beneath the high altar, known as the Altar of the Confession.
The current building isn’t the original basilica, but was begun in 1506, under Pope Julius II, and was completed in 1626. It was built to replace another structure that was in pretty bad shape. Michelangelo was only one of several Renaissance masters who designed and decorated what is one of the largest churches in the world by square feet.
Like most basilicas, it is set up in a Latin cross layout and features a huge dome, spanning 137 feet in diameter and is 393 feet high. The façade is decorated with statues of Saints Peter and Paul. There something called a narthex that houses the Holy Door that is kept walled up with bricks and only opened during jubilee years. Inside, is a nave, wide aisles, and chapels decorated with elaborate sculptures and artwork. And then I saw it. Michelangelo’s Pietà. The original. I wish I could explain why it affected me the way it did. Maybe it was the memory of Grandma Barry saying that one day we would visit it together. Maybe it is just the look on the Madonna’s face as she held the early remains of her child Jesus. Maybe it is a lot of things, but I refuse to apologize for it and I wasn’t the only one that had their feelings on display.
I did learn something I hadn’t known. The Pietà’s display is a little different from all the other ones in the church. It is held in the first side chapel in St. Peter’s Basilica, but, unlike most other priceless works of art housed there, the statue is shielded by a wall of bulletproof glass. It wasn’t always kept behind glass. On May 21, 1972, on the Feast of Pentecost, Australian geologist Laszlo Toth, who was living in Rome at the time, entered St. Peter’s Basilica with a geologist’s hammer. He approached the Pietà and jumped the altar railing in front of the statue. Falsely claiming to be the Messiah, Toth charged at the Pietà, shouting “I am Jesus Christ — risen from the dead!” He then violently struck the Pietà twelve times. Toth broke Mary’s left arm and hand, her nose, and struck one of Mary’s eyelids. Tourists and other bystanders swarmed the statue and pulled Toth away. The damages on the Pietà were significant and required several restoration efforts. Using pieces of the statue that had broken off as well as parts of Mary’s back, the Vatican was able to restore the statue to reflect its original appearance.
Michelangelo is the one given credit for the huge dome on the church, completed in 1590. The dome is more pointed than Michelangelo's original plan, and encircling the interior is an inscription that reads: "You are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church... and I will give you the keys of the kingdom of heaven."
The basilica also has six bells. The largest of them, "Campanone," weighs 9 tons and is used for ringing for papal blessings. Up on the roof are the sculptures of Christ the Redeemer, Saint John the Baptist, and 11 Apostles. Meanwhile, inside, there are over 100 tombs. Among those laid to rest are many popes, royals, and other historical figures. Our special ticket also allowed us to climb the 300 stairs to the top of the dome.
That would have been enough for me but there was still more to cover. The Vatican Museums houses an incredible collection of art and historical artifacts amassed by the Catholic Church over the centuries. With approximately 70,000 works, of which 20,000 are on display, they rank among the most significant museums in the world and are the second most-visited art museum after the Louvre.The museums (yes, plural as there are several all interlinked) trace their origins to Pope Julius II in the early 16th century. Following expert advice from Michelangelo among others, the Pope displayed many works of art rather than leave them in storage for no one to see and appreciate. Over time, the collection expanded, and in 2006, the museums celebrated their 500th anniversary by opening the Vatican Hill necropolis to the public. The museums include 24 galleries, culminating in the Sistine Chapel, but we weren’t going there yet and I was glad. The crowds were suffocating.
Several of the museums surround the Belvedere Courtyard. The courtyard was designed in 1505 to connect the Vatican Palace with the Villa Belvedere. The Villa Belvedere, built in 1484 by Pope Innocent VIII, was positioned on higher ground to provide a summer retreat with cooling breezes and panoramic views. As such, it was the first purpose-built Roman pleasure villa since antiquity. Pope Julius II, upon ascending the papal throne in 1503, transformed the villa into a repository for ancient Roman sculptures.
Over time, the courtyard served multiple functions. Pope Leo X used the lower terrace for his menagerie, even parading his (reportedly much loved) elephant Hanno here before its burial on-site. The open space hosted festivals, pageants, and jousts, with bleachers installed for spectators. The upper terraces featured patterned gardens. However, in 1585–1590, Pope Sixtus V disrupted the original design by constructing a Vatican Library wing, splitting the courtyard. Some believe this change was intentional, aimed to obscure the classical sculptures that Pope Adrian VI had condemned as "pagan idols." Today, the lower terrace retains the name the Belvedere Courtyard, while the upper part is called the Pine Cone Courtyard, named after the large bronze pinecone displayed there.
As for the library, one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious libraries, it holds an extensive collection of historical texts and manuscripts. While officially established in 1475, its origins trace back much earlier. The library’s foundation began in 1448 when Pope Nicholas V consolidated approximately 350 Greek, Latin, and Hebrew manuscripts from his predecessors with his own private collection and new acquisitions. These included texts from the Library of Constantinople. By 1455, Nicholas V had expanded the library to 1,200 books. Under another pope it grew into the Palatine Library, the largest in Western Europe at the time, and that’s when the special library wing was built. In its early years, books were displayed on benches and chained to prevent theft.
Today, the Vatican Library houses 75,000 ancient manuscripts, 1.1 million printed books, and 8,500 so-called “incunabula” – the books printed before the invention of the printing press. Notable treasures include one of the oldest nearly complete Bibles – in Greek (dated the 4th century); the Codex Borgia, an important Mesoamerican manuscript; and a tiny 45mm Quran. The library has 26 miles) of shelving, along with specialized areas for manuscript storage, restoration, and photographic archiving. The Vatican Secret Archives, now called the Vatican Apostolic Archive, was separated from the library in the 17th century and holds 150,000 additional documents of historical importance. Although primarily known for its theological texts, the library also preserves significant secular works, particularly Greek and Latin classics that were essential to the Renaissance. Some 6,000 new books are acquired annually. Additionally, the collection comprises 330,000 coins and medals.
While we didn’t go into the Sistine chapel at that point, we did get to see the Pauline Chapel. Apparently it is an often overlooked site that isn’t normally included in the standard tourist routes. Commissioned in 1538, the chapel was completed in 1540, and was dedicated to the Feast of the Conversion of Saint Paul. The chapel’s artistic significance lies in its two Michelangelo frescoes, The Conversion of Saul and The Crucifixion of Saint Peter, painted between 1542 and 1549. Despite being in his 60s, exhausted, and still occupied with Pope Julius II’s tomb, Michelangelo was personally chosen by Pope Paul III to execute the frescoes. The significance of the frescoes like it a stylistic departure from grace and idealized beauty, leaning toward a more narrative-driven approach. This shift is particularly evident in The Conversion of Saul, where Saul is depicted as an elderly man, possibly mirroring Michelangelo’s own weariness. In 2010, the Vatican introduced a virtual reality[1] tour of the chapel, offering a detailed digital tour of its restored brilliance.
Nov 16 - Day 65: Vatican Early Access and After-Hours in the Sistine Chapel (Part 2)
It was nice to finally get back outside at this point. All of that whatever you want to call it was giving me a bit of claustrophobia, or maybe it was the crowds. Either way, fresh air was appreciated. The Vatican Gardens cover over half of the territory of the world’s smallest country. Yep, it’s true. Located in the west of Vatican City, the gardens are private and considered owned by the Pope. They also contain several important buildings, including Vatican Radio and the Governor’s Palace. The gardens span 57 acres and are enclosed by stone walls on three sides, with the highest point reaching 197 feet above sea level.
Another one of those legends states that the gardens' foundation site was spread with sacred soil brought from Mount Calvary in Jerusalem by Empress Saint Helena[2] (Emperor Constantine I’s mother), symbolically uniting the blood of Christ with that of early Christian martyrs persecuted by Emperor Nero.The gardens date back to medieval times and originally consisted of orchards and vineyards. In 1279, a pope enclosed the area with walls and planted another orchard, a lawn, and a garden. Major renovations occurred in the early 16th. The garden now holds Cedars of Lebanon and an olive tree donated by Israel. There’s also a hidden railway station that is now a museum showcasing coins and stamps produced within the Vatican.
At this point we were turned loose outside of the Vatican City walls. We were free to walk the streets of Rome so long as we were back in time for our evening activity. Lev had a pretty long list that he wanted to get additional pictures of. He apologized but it was actually kinda fun to hot foot it all over the place taking additional and filler shots. Whenever the kids were hungry I simply pulled out more pizza and grabbed bottled drinks near wherever we were. We didn’t get to everything on Lev’s list but not for lack of trying. We certainly got more than he thought we would and he was in a good mood while he stuffed a slice of pizza in his own mouth.
Next came the biggie. The Sistine Chapel[3] is one of the most significant artistic and religious landmarks in the world. And I know this not just because the guide said so, not just because all the signs and guidebooks and websites say so. I know it because Grandma Barry told me so. However, I don’t know if it was overhyped or just what but while I found it really interesting to look at, Pieta made me feel more.
Originally known as the "Great Chapel," it was reconstructed and consecrated between 1473 and 1483, under Pope Sixtus IV; hence its name. The chapel’s fame mostly comes from its frescoes, particularly Michelangelo’s ceiling and The Last Judgment on the altar wall. Before that, Renaissance painters such as Botticelli, Perugino, and several others had already decorated the side walls with depictions of The Life of Moses and The Life of Christ. Above these biblical scenes are portraits of popes and painted draperies.
In 1508, Michelangelo repainted the chapel's ceiling, originally decorated with a blue background and golden stars. Despite considering himself more of a sculptor than a painter, he undertook the task on the condition he was given full artistic control. Michelangelo's work, completed in 1512, is said to have transformed Western art with vivid colors and composition. The ceiling depicts The Creation of the World, The Fall of Man, and The Redemption of Humanity. More than 300 figures, arranged in three layers, include prophets, ancestors of Christ, and nine dramatic scenes from Genesis, and cover over 5,000 square feet.
In a fit of originality (and not necessarily welcome), the frescoes have male nudes, sibyls, prophetesses from pagan mythology. One of the most iconic paintings within the chapel is The Creation of Adam, portraying God reaching out to create Adam against a backdrop of cloudy heavens. This artwork is among the most reproduced religious paintings in history.
Years later in 1535, Michelangelo returned to paint "The Last Judgment" and completed it in 1541. This huge fresco, portraying Christ’s Second Coming, created a lot of controversy due to its nude figures, leading to a censorship campaign. Michelangelo mocked critics by incorporating their likenesses into the painting, while later interventions saw parts of the nudity covered.
It was so late when we left (and quite dark) that our tour group was ferried back to the hotel in taxis. I wouldn’t have minded the walk but Lev and I had the kids and his equipment to think of and Vatican or not, the area was known to have muggings on a regular basis once you left the lights on the walls.
I wound up getting wound up all over again once we got back to the hotel. Packing. Tomorrow we are off to Portugal followed by Spain. We’re also supposed to do the Rock of Gibraltar in there someplace, but the Spanish itinerary hasn’t been completely nailed down yet due to weather issues. I need to get some rest or I’m going to be bleary-eyed in the morning. But geez, what a few days we’ve had here in Italy. Lev has promised a family album of our travels. I could sit down and look at one right now but I need to have patience. He’s still wrapping up our previous travels. That man needs some rest.
[1] Pauline Chapel
[2] Helena, mother of Constantine I - Wikipedia
[3] https://www.museivaticani.va/conten...oni/musei/cappella-sistina/tour-virtuale.html
I don't have a hamster growl, but.....
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qN72LEQnaU&list=RD1qN72LEQnaU&start_radio=1