…… Ac Shop Vacc wire question

Satanta

Satanta

Stone Cold Crazy
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So a month ago or so we got a new shop vacc. We;;, few days ago I went to use it and found one of he small dogs had decided to chew up the two-pronged plug casing including the wires.

Also chewed up an unplugged extension cord I use with the Vacc.

Figure I will wire the Vacc and Ecord into one unit.

Ecord has a thre prong, Vacc has a two prong.

Three prong has the Black, White amd Greem wores, two prong has Black and White, Easey Peasey right?

Well....the two prong also has a strand of non-insulated wie mixed in.

I figured Black to Black, White to White and tape off the Green except now I am wondering if I should wire the Green to the Bare?
 
Red Baron

Red Baron

Paleo-Conservative
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I used to be a top labor grade machinist for the United Steelworkers.

Electrical was above my paygrade however.
 
Satanta

Satanta

Stone Cold Crazy
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What about the bare wre on the two=prong side?

And why is it there? I've seen bare aluminum wire wrapping in cable TV type stuff but do not recall it on equipment.
 
Lone_Hawk

Lone_Hawk

Resident Spook
In the case of your shop vac, the bare wire is probably for strength, not part of the circuit. As others have said, b/b, w/w. tape off the green. The big issue you have is with using electrical tape to join them. One day you will pull on the cord and bad things could happen. You would do better to get male and female hospital plugs and repair each cord properly.
 
Satanta

Satanta

Stone Cold Crazy
_______________
Lone_Hawk said:
In the case of your shop vac, the bare wire is probably for strength, not part of the circuit. As others have said, b/b, w/w. tape off the green. The big issue you have is with using electrical tape to join them. One day you will pull on the cord and bad things could happen. You would do better to get male and female hospital plugs and repair each cord properly.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I know but do not have any right now. This is a temp fix cause we are innuindate with fleas and roaches. The new roomie brought the roahches with him-we had the house pest controlled before move-in. Now? You'd mever know. Bout to evac all living vreatures for a few hours and fog. Gotta do it under the house and in the crawlspace too.

Anyhoo. with this type of tapeup I bend the cord six inches from the splice and tape the entire length with duct tape. Holds for a long time too.
 
Lone_Hawk

Lone_Hawk

Resident Spook
Satanta said:
Yeah, I know but do not have any right now. This is a temp fix cause we are innuindate with fleas and roaches. The new roomie brought the roahches with him-we had the house pest controlled before move-in. Now? You'd mever know. Bout to evac all living vreatures for a few hours and fog. Gotta do it under the house and in the crawlspace too.

Anyhoo. with this type of tapeup I bend the cord six inches from the splice and tape the entire length with duct tape. Holds for a long time too.
Click to expand...
That works for a temp fix. Good luck!!!
 
RememberGoliad

RememberGoliad

Veteran Member
Satanta said:
I figured Black to Black, White to White and tape off the Green
Click to expand...
That would make it as safe as it was before the doggie got ahold of it. The only two conductors getting plugged in are the black and the white, so black to black and white to white with a buncha good tape over it, will give you a safe and working shop vac.
 
J

john70

Veteran Member
install a 3-wire cord cap
both blacks to the brass screw
both whites to the silver screw
the green to the green (ground) screw

if you use a 3-wire cord, join
Black to Black, White to White and Green to green(you may connect the bare wire to the green also
 
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Millwright

Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
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OIP.EUMjN9sUxETv-RmD-hdGaQHaE7
 
Dobbin

Dobbin

Faithful Steed
West said:
That looks like one of them European receptacles. Makes for easier hack like in picture.
Click to expand...
Normally an American receptacle is mounted with the ground post "down" and the large slot (white wire) is to the left and the small slot (black wire) is to the right.

There is no assurance that the hack above is even connected "safely." It may cross-connect "poles" which there are not really in AC circuits, but safety and grounding aspects tend to encourage a continuation of the thought.

Whatever you do - DON'T lick the receptacle.

Dobbin
 
Dobbin

Dobbin

Faithful Steed
Dobbin said:
Normally an American receptacle is mounted with the ground post "down" and the large slot (white wire) is to the left and the small slot (black wire) is to the right.

There is no assurance that the hack above is even connected "safely." It may cross-connect "poles" which there are not really in AC circuits, but safety and grounding aspects tend to encourage a continuation of the thought.

Whatever you do - DON'T lick the receptacle.

Dobbin
Click to expand...
Owner has an interesting "memnonic" (memory aid) when it comes to his house wiring.

The black wire is "Live" - and leaves the breaker in your panel as "supply."

The white wire is the "return" - and returns to your panel and is connected to the neutral bus.

The green wire is an "additional return" - and returns to your panel and is connected to the ground bus.

The ground bus and the neutral bus are connected together IN the panel - so electrically they are the same.

The memnonic - you have one supply - and two possible returns for each outlet. Owner admits this is a SEVERE simplification.

Some panels and some installations don't connect the ground and neutral bus in the panel. Owner's "sub-panel" in the man-cave is like that. In that case a separate ground wire and neutral wire are brought back to the main panel. Thus, and contrary to the instruction of the First Class Electrican/Saleman at Home Depot, you don't put a ground stake for the sub-panel - but everything gets connected back to the main panel. This apparently is code and prevents "circular currents." And why they make panels now with removable neutral/ground links.

Everything beyond the receptacle is "outside" of the National Electrical Code - and is more or less covered by UL (Underwriters Laboratory) requirements. And enforced only by the grace of Maker. But there is a lot of "older" UL listed appliances which now don't conform, but are still used.

This is what happens when your horse can look over your shoulder and simultaneously refer to online code requirements.

Dobbin
 
Satanta

Satanta

Stone Cold Crazy
_______________
Dobbin said:
Owner has an interesting "memnonic" (memory aid) when it comes to his house wiring.

The black wire is "Live" - and leaves the breaker in your panel as "supply."

The white wire is the "return" - and returns to your panel and is connected to the neutral bus.

The green wire is an "additional return" - and returns to your panel and is connected to the ground bus.

The ground bus and the neutral bus are connected together IN the panel - so electrically they are the same.

The memnonic - you have one supply - and two possible returns for each outlet. Owner admits this is a SEVERE simplification.

Some panels and some installations don't connect the ground and neutral bus in the panel. Owner's "sub-panel" in the man-cave is like that. In that case a separate ground wire and neutral wire are brought back to the main panel. Thus, and contrary to the instruction of the First Class Electrican/Saleman at Home Depot, you don't put a ground stake for the sub-panel - but everything gets connected back to the main panel. This apparently is code and prevents "circular currents." And why they make panels now with removable neutral/ground links.

Everything beyond the receptacle is "outside" of the National Electrical Code - and is more or less covered by UL (Underwriters Laboratory) requirements. And enforced only by the grace of Maker. But there is a lot of "older" UL listed appliances which now don't conform, but are still used.

This is what happens when your horse can look over your shoulder and simultaneously refer to online code requirements.

Dobbin
Click to expand...
The Shin Bones connected to the Eye Bone, the Eye Bones connected to the Row Boat...
 
WFK

WFK

Senior Something
Even if you don't know the context, there is a lot of advice in the previous posts:
Black on black, white on white, tape off the green!:applaud:
:D:D
 
Texican

Texican

Live Free & Die Free.... God Freedom Country....
Generally, appliances have a ground (green wire) to blow the breaker if the appliance has an electrical failure. This is to keep the electrical charge from going back into the neutral wiring causing other problems with other electrical items. With a short, the electrical amperage feed will exceed the breaker amperage and blow the breaker. The grounding is to protect the user from shock by the appliance/tool.

Many newer appliances are double insulated so no ground is needed.

Double Insulated or Double Insulation Electrical Appliances​

An appliance with double insulation, also known as a Class II electrical appliance is one which has been built in such a way that it does not require a connection to electrical earth (ground), and has 2 layers of insulation to protect the user.

Texican....
 
Millwright

Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
_______________
Texican said:
Generally, appliances have a ground (green wire) to blow the breaker if the appliance has an electrical failure. This is to keep the electrical charge from going back into the neutral wiring causing other problems with other electrical items. With a short, the electrical amperage feed will exceed the breaker amperage and blow the breaker. The grounding is to protect the user from shock by the appliance/tool.

Many newer appliances are double insulated so no ground is needed.

Double Insulated or Double Insulation Electrical Appliances​

An appliance with double insulation, also known as a Class II electrical appliance is one which has been built in such a way that it does not require a connection to electrical earth (ground), and has 2 layers of insulation to protect the user.

Texican....
Click to expand...

Ground wire gives leaking power a way to ground that is easier than going through you.
 
WFK

WFK

Senior Something
Lone_Hawk said:
Just curious, what did you dislike about my post earlier?
Click to expand...
"You would do better to get male and female hospital plugs and repair each cord properly."
Expensive solution that does not answer what to connect to what.
 
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