Help Denim skirt pattern

kyrsyan

Has No Life - Lives on TB
My brain is bouncing ahead to one of my next projects. I'm seam ripping multiple pairs of Levi's to make some skirts.

One is going to be a patchwork tiered skirt. Another a wrap skirt. If I can pull enough together, I may see about adapting a fitted yoke waist and then attached vertical panels. One of them is likely to have the decorative fraying at the seams, just for the effect. I have a tatted twist scarf, in denim colors, that will likely become part of another one.

One that I'd really like to play with is a 1/2 to 3/4 circle using the waistband from the jeans. And then custom cutting sections so that the back pockets, side pockets, and zipper all sit like they would on the jeans. It would be blockwork/patchwork. And I'm thinking about having fun doing it with flat stitched seams.

The problem is I cannot seem to find any patterns for denim that aren't either for lightweight denim or a pencil skirt style. Length isn't really an issue because I can add that. But Levi denim isn't lightweight. And I don't wear pencil skirts.

I also looked for patterns that used wool or twill. And they don't exist either. Everything is for lightweight drapey fabrics or knits.

I've checked Simplicity, McCall, Burda, Butterick, and Vogue. As well as a whole bunch of private pattern makers for plus size women. My brain almost hurts from how many patterns I've looked at.

I can likely draft one but then there's the tedium of making a mockup to be sure of fit, and fiddling with it. And sometimes drafting it can be a massive pain. I mean modifying an existing pattern can take a chunk of time. Making one from scratch is just a headache that I'd like to avoid.

So suggestions? Any overseas pattern makers that Google may not have shown for a US based search? Or an old pattern you know of, and maybe have a number for? Or a period pattern that I could adapt?

This is one of those where the material a pattern is designed for really matters because of the difference in design for a soft drapey cotton vs a medium to heavy weight denim.
 
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Pebbles

Veteran Member
Wow, your ideas sound so cute. 40 years ago I worked in a fabric store and I still have some patterns from those days. I am away from home until Friday but when I get home I will check out my stash and let you know. Any way you can get your hands on a skirt like you want that your can rip apart and use as a pattern?
 

Martinhouse

Deceased
Could you just make the yoke of the skirt from the intact top part of jeans that were the correct fit for you and then add tiers or gores as required to get the right drape and fullness?

When I was younger I got myself a jean jacket and did some really pretty embroidery on it. I washed it what I thought would be half to death and it still stayed the texture of good quality roll-roofing. I decided the only way to soften it might be to tie it around a concrete block and drag it behind my car back and forth to work for a couple of months. Naturally, I couldn't really do that and right now, fifty some years later, I suspect it's still in a suitcase of clothing I couldn't bear to throw out. Along with several other beautiful things I'd made myselrf when I worked in an office years ago. Everything all moldy and rotted by now from age and humidity. Ugh!
 

kyrsyan

Has No Life - Lives on TB
Wow, your ideas sound so cute. 40 years ago I worked in a fabric store and I still have some patterns from those days. I am away from home until Friday but when I get home I will check out my stash and let you know. Any way you can get your hands on a skirt like you want that your can rip apart and use as a pattern?
Nope. This is a design completely in my mind. I just lucked out in receiving 10 pairs of large mens Levi's. They are in pretty good condition.

I did feel momentarily guilty for my plans for them. But no one I know that could wear that size wants/needs them. So seam ripping occurs.

But as I was ripping the first pair, I thought it would be nice to make a skirt version of the jeans. I like long full skirts. This just seems like a fun design idea.
 

kyrsyan

Has No Life - Lives on TB
Could you just make the yoke of the skirt from the intact top part of jeans that were the correct fit for you and then add tiers or gores as required to get the right drape and fullness?

When I was younger I got myself a jean jacket and did some really pretty embroidery on it. I washed it what I thought would be half to death and it still stayed the texture of good quality roll-roofing. I decided the only way to soften it might be to tie it around a concrete block and drag it behind my car back and forth to work for a couple of months. Naturally, I couldn't really do that and right now, fifty some years later, I suspect it's still in a suitcase of clothing I couldn't bear to throw out. Along with several other beautiful things I'd made myselrf when I worked in an office years ago. Everything all moldy and rotted by now from age and humidity. Ugh!
For the yoke one, I likely will. I have a pair or two of my old jeans that have worn through in certain areas. I can either use those, or seam rip them and use them for a pattern. That is the one that I'm likely to do the frayed appearance for the vertical seams.

But for the Levi mockup skirt, that won't be a yoke waist. And I really want these to be somewhat reminiscent of a pair of Levi's. But not in the crude, cut the center seam and add fabric kind of way. (And I wouldn't wear those because I wouldn't be able to move in them without busting a seam somewhere when I go to garden, or put up fencing, or any one of a dozen other physical chores.)

I'm the crazy female that would wear floor length circle or tiered skirts. And then end up climbing a ladder at work without even thinking about it. I used to go to fests or cons a lot. And the only difference between my event wear and my normal wear is that I'd take off the bodices and the weapons for normal wear. (And that brings back some really amusing memories.)

I only stopped because my toddler son would hide under them. No big deal until he had problems understanding that there are some areas where young hands should not be touching. He is fond of skin to skin touch, even now. So it took quite few years for that to sink in. Basically about the time he developed a sense of privacy for himself.

Knit pants are great and comfy but I'd really like to start wearing my skirts again. I have a gorgeous green patchwork tiered skirt that I hand stitched for a renaissance fair costume. And hopefully I'll be back in that in a year. Although that is not for everyday wear.
 

bluelady

Veteran Member
Have you seen Heidi at Rain Country's tiered patchwork skirts? I'm not sure she's ever made one of *all* denim, it might be too heavy, or if this is even the kind you're talking about, but see what you think. This is a playlist of all her videos showing exactly how she makes them. When she isn't too busy with other things she sells them on Etsy.

 
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pauldingbabe

The Great Cat
Nope. This is a design completely in my mind. I just lucked out in receiving 10 pairs of large mens Levi's. They are in pretty good condition.

I did feel momentarily guilty for my plans for them. But no one I know that could wear that size wants/needs them. So seam ripping occurs.

But as I was ripping the first pair, I thought it would be nice to make a skirt version of the jeans. I like long full skirts. This just seems like a fun design idea.

Do you mean like a "duster" skirt?

Fitted at the waist and hips then fuller as it elongated?

You might want to look for ridding wear patterns?
 

Chicory

#KeeptheRepublic
Updated pattern company name. It is Sinclair (not Hey June).

Look at the “Florence” gored skirt from Sinclair patterns. I just made 2 skirts from this pattern. One shorter in a lighter weight gray distressed denim (zipper on side seam).
And the other in heavy Jean denim with buttons on front center and in the longer length.

I only mention this pattern in case you can use it as a starting point to modify into your own design…
 
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Meemur

Voice on the Prairie / FJB!
Kyrsyan, you have a very specific skirt in mind: in that case, it's not overkill to design your own pattern.

Something my friend did: make the mock ups doll-sized and then give those away to the girl cousins for their Barbies (or whatever). It didn't take that much material or sewing to finally come up with the bib overall skirt she was designing. Once she got it down, then she transferred the pattern to heavy cotton rather than paper. That made the mock up easier to try on and do adjustments as she made it. She put it together with pins and running stitches. (A patient friend who will help with pinning is valuable, too!)

This nice thing about denim: it's forgiving! Things like yokes and waist bands can hide mistakes. It's nowhere near trying to design a satin prom dress from the beginning, and I will never attempt one, again! I only did because the gal had a birth defect, a short arm, and I tried to design an A-line dress with a cape that flowed over the front. She was thrilled but I wasn't impressed with the results. I'm no designer! (But the price was right -- her mom bought the material and I provided the labor)
 

kyrsyan

Has No Life - Lives on TB
I will design my own from scratch if I have to. But that is tedious. It really is. It's nowhere near as easy as some people think it is. It is much easier to alter a pattern that is even close. Otherwise it comes down to whether I like the idea enough to put in the time to create a full, from scratch, pattern. Probably.

One of the problems is figuring out the waistband ease for a fitted waist on a plus size woman. It is not the same as for a regular size woman. But I may be able to slightly cheat there by using a pair or two of comfy jeans to work out the measurement. There will be some difference because pants can have more waistband ease than skirts can.

I'm beginning to realize how uncommon the ability to draft your own patterns is. I don't know why I thought it was more common. I wing it on quite a few patterns. And I adapt even more store bought patterns. I've always thought that most people who sew clothes for any amount of time would have that skillset.

Have you seen Heidi at Rain Country's tiered patchwork skirts? I'm not sure she's ever made one of *all* denim, it might be too heavy, or if this is even the kind you're talking about, but see what you think. This is a playlist of all her videos showing exactly how she makes them. When she isn't too busy with other things she sells them on Etsy.

No I hadn't seen hers. I have now. I have two that I have made that exact same way. I honestly love patchwork tiered skirts. But I don't typically make mine as full as hers. It depends on the material. But I love them for freedom of movement and privacy. They also do a really good job of keeping people out of your personal space.

Do you mean like a "duster" skirt?

Fitted at the waist and hips then fuller as it elongated?

You might want to look for ridding wear patterns?
I will have to dig deeper in that when I have a bit more time. But at a glance, there were some possibilities. If not for this one, then for some others. I really like split skirts and those have been on the "to create" list for a while.

Look at the gored skirt from Hey June patterns. I just made 2 skirts from this pattern. One shorter in a lighter weight gray distressed denim (zipper on side seam).
And the other in heavy Jean denim with buttons on front center and in the longer length.

I didn't see one at first glance. But I'll do a deeper search. I'm trying to avoid gored for this project. I'm not sure how well that would work with heavier denim. But it the pattern was designed for heavier fabrics, it'd be worth maybe trying.

Please keep suggestions coming. There are some really good ideas here. Even if they don't work for this project, they may get lined up for future projects.
 

Wildwood

Veteran Member
You might try ebay. I sell vintage patterns among other things in my booth at the antique mall. I research going prices, etc. on ebay and have run across some interesting and unique patterns there. As you know, there are lots of smaller pattern companies that specialize in certain styles that may have something that could help you out. Etsy may be another option. Lots of crafters sell patterns and supplies there too.

Also, there may be something like what you are looking for in western wear as far as fabric weight and draping. A lot of times in the old movies, the women are wearing heavy canvas looking skirts instead of jeans.

I hope you post pics of your finished skirts...I'd love to see them.
 

Meemur

Voice on the Prairie / FJB!
I've always thought that most people who sew clothes for any amount of time would have that skillset.
No, the two don't go hand-in-hand. I sew fabric together per instructions. In no way am I a designer! I attempted the one prom dress because the family had very little money, and her senior prom meant a lot to her. This was before the days of free prom dresses for broke high school students.

These days, I mostly repair/add modesty panels to clothing I find in thrift shops for me or for others.
 

kyrsyan

Has No Life - Lives on TB
No, the two don't go hand-in-hand. I sew fabric together per instructions. In no way am I a designer! I attempted the one prom dress because the family had very little money, and her senior prom meant a lot to her. This was before the days of free prom dresses for broke high school students.

These days, I mostly repair/add modesty panels to clothing I find in thrift shops for me or for others.
When I went to college, I didn't want to go. I needed time to get my head on straight. But my parents would absolutely not hear of me not going. So my rebellion was that I went for a theater degree. I finished that degree, and with my brain finally getting grounded, headed straight into a chemistry degree. I learned a lot of things that have proven useful. One of those things was drafting and modifying patterns. Several lifetimes ago, I used to create costumes and other things for people, until I got tired of spending hours designing something for no pay. ("Oh, that looks neat. Now make it and I'll scrape together the money for it.")

For a while I did generic sized costume pieces. They were pricey but the people who bought them loved them. But then those folks were used to paying just as much from bulk vendors who didn't care about their materials or the stitching and how likely either was going to hold up to being used in battles. But after my son was born, I drifted away from the world of LARP and SCA.

I've always altered patterns. It's almost unresistable to tweak them to what is in my mind's eye. I'll change fabrics. Or pull pieces from multiple patterns and work them together. Or take a clothing item I love and create a pattern off of it.

Tiered skirts and patchwork skirts are easy and fun. They require a little more thought towards cutting measurements when you've got a bit of junk in the trunk. But they can be made of so many fun things. And the squares can be small, for a smaller person, medium for a medium person, etc. So you don't end up making a large person look even larger or losing a small person to oversized patchwork pieces. And even size of the tiers and gathering can be freely adjusted.

Circle skirts are fun and full bodied. If I have to draft one, I'll probably do a 1/2 to 3/4 circle skirt base draft. And then decide the piecework from that point. The hardest part will actually be a fitted waistband. I just don't do them that often without a pattern. Elastic and drawstring waistbands are some much more forgiving. And I know I won't wear it if the waistband doesn't fit right. I may just have to work the waistband separately and then go from there. If I do that, then I can work it similar to a tiered patchwork, just keep the gathering to a minimum and shape the pieces to do a gradual widening from top to bottom. So that each tier adds width without adding a bunch of gathers.

And I love grabbing old clothes and thrift store finds and making new things from them. Have some very comfy "house" pieces from doing that.
You might try ebay. I sell vintage patterns among other things in my booth at the antique mall. I research going prices, etc. on ebay and have run across some interesting and unique patterns there. As you know, there are lots of smaller pattern companies that specialize in certain styles that may have something that could help you out. Etsy may be another option. Lots of crafters sell patterns and supplies there too.

Also, there may be something like what you are looking for in western wear as far as fabric weight and draping. A lot of times in the old movies, the women are wearing heavy canvas looking skirts instead of jeans.

I hope you post pics of your finished skirts...I'd love to see them.

I always have problems finding patterns on eBay without specifics, like pattern numbers. Because otherwise it's just hours of scrolling through looking at pictures. My brain starts to hurt after the first 50 or so. It is a great place to get them, when I know specifically what I am looking for.

Kyrsyan, thanks for this thread. I do love denim skirts! I updated my previous post to correct the pattern name.
Ohhh... There is one there that might work for this idea. I'll have to lengthen it, of course, because I don't do knee length skirts. And size it up a bit. And a second one that looks promising for a different project. Ooooh, a new pattern source.
 

anna43

Veteran Member
A gored skirt with each section narrower at the waist would allow you to get fullness at bottom and reduce bulk at the top. I like denim jumpers better than skirts however reusing fabric might make that style difficult.
 
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