PREP PART 4: WATER
- Thread starter LilRose8
- Start date
Kristianna
Inactive
I just came here to post a prep question regarding water! 
To answer your question...we do have our own well and it is fantastic water, but...this great tasting water is 400' down. We have an artesian well, so water is definitely a concern for us.
I don't know what we will do longterm...we have thought of a couple of different options...
1.) get a solar water pump installed as a backup and pump the water that we'll need while the sun is out each day. (of cours we'd have to have some reserve water on hand for when the sun doesn't shine.
2.) dig our own "dug well". I think we would have to have preps for filtering water with this option, though.
Does anyone else have any additional ideas/options for us? Is it possible to store enough water for the "longterm" for a large family?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Okay, now for the question I came here to post: Are those 5 gallon water jugs that offices use for their water coolers a good option for storing water long term? I like this idea because the water is already sealed in the bottle and also because the bottles/jugs are reuseable. We can get an old water bottle holder (the cooler thing) and use that to dispense our water when the need to use our stored water arises.
Any thoughts on this?
To answer your question...we do have our own well and it is fantastic water, but...this great tasting water is 400' down. We have an artesian well, so water is definitely a concern for us.
I don't know what we will do longterm...we have thought of a couple of different options...
1.) get a solar water pump installed as a backup and pump the water that we'll need while the sun is out each day. (of cours we'd have to have some reserve water on hand for when the sun doesn't shine.
2.) dig our own "dug well". I think we would have to have preps for filtering water with this option, though.
Does anyone else have any additional ideas/options for us? Is it possible to store enough water for the "longterm" for a large family?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Okay, now for the question I came here to post: Are those 5 gallon water jugs that offices use for their water coolers a good option for storing water long term? I like this idea because the water is already sealed in the bottle and also because the bottles/jugs are reuseable. We can get an old water bottle holder (the cooler thing) and use that to dispense our water when the need to use our stored water arises.
Any thoughts on this?
We believe in redundancy. We have water stored both for drinking and other uses. We are on a water system now, but also still have our bored well that we could send a bucket down if necessary. We also have a good sized creek down the road half a mile and numerous lakes around us. The kids and I have experimented with making water filters out of various things we already have plus we have a filter. We also have a number of barrels outside to catch rainwater in if needed.
Mrs Smith
Inactive
We have a cistern for our water storage. It's cinder block walls with poured concrete floor. The walls have been treated with a thorough-seal. Our downspouts route all the roof rainwater into the cistern.
It holds 8,800 gallons. Every 3-4 years we drain it, scrub the walls/floor with bleach water and re-fill. A water pump with whole-house filtration system cleans the water further before it comes out the taps.
In 6 years of use we've never run out.
It holds 8,800 gallons. Every 3-4 years we drain it, scrub the walls/floor with bleach water and re-fill. A water pump with whole-house filtration system cleans the water further before it comes out the taps.
In 6 years of use we've never run out.
Terriannie
Has No Life - Lives on TB
I've been intrigued with the Water Cone posted some time ago. Has anyone found out where one can order it? See site for pictures.
http://www.watercone.com/product.html
The Product
A Product that enables anyone, in a most simple fashion, an independent, cheap and mobile solar Potable Water generation from sea water or brackish water on the base of condensation by solar still.
This Invention represents a conical, self-supporting and stackable Unit made from transparent, thermo-formable polycarbonate (same as water dispensers) outfitted with a screw cap spout at the tip and an inward circular collecting trough at the base. Technically speaking it is a solar still.
http://www.watercone.com/product.html
The Product
A Product that enables anyone, in a most simple fashion, an independent, cheap and mobile solar Potable Water generation from sea water or brackish water on the base of condensation by solar still.
This Invention represents a conical, self-supporting and stackable Unit made from transparent, thermo-formable polycarbonate (same as water dispensers) outfitted with a screw cap spout at the tip and an inward circular collecting trough at the base. Technically speaking it is a solar still.
Mrs Smith
Inactive
Lilrose, we're in SW Ohio. Lots of homes have cisterns around here.
Nope, it never freezes. The cistern is underneath one room of the house, so in the family room there's a manhole cover for access. It's covered with carpet, so it's not an eyesore or in the way.
City water lines were run down our street a couple years ago, but I'm quite happy with the cistern/rain water; and it's free.
Nope, it never freezes. The cistern is underneath one room of the house, so in the family room there's a manhole cover for access. It's covered with carpet, so it's not an eyesore or in the way.
City water lines were run down our street a couple years ago, but I'm quite happy with the cistern/rain water; and it's free.
Cisterns
Bodybagger,
Thanks for the info on cisterns. If you can think of anything else that would be helpful, PLEASE be sure to post it. Cisterns is a topic that I've been interested in for a long time. They used to be real common around here (Florida), but I haven't seen them in any houses built in my lifetime.
There is a large restored house at a state park here (Blue Springs State Park) that has a cistern on a tower. It's a two story house, and rainwater is piped to a short water tower. That gives pressurized water on the first floor. Very cool system.
I once talked to a missionary way out in the central american jungle about his water supply (talked via ham radio). He said they kept minnows in their cistern to keep out the mosquito larvae. Apparently theirs was an open top, or maybe semi-screened top cistern. In fact, I think I recall reading somewhere that centuries ago, the Japanese used goldfish for that same reason. The breeding of fancy goldfish then went from utilitarian to hobby.
What kind of screening/filtering do you have between the gutter system and the cistern? What kind of roof material do you have (asphalt shingles, metal, etc.)? Is there any kind of vent, or does the water-intake also serve as an air vent?
I've already got both an electric well and a hand pump well, as well as about 100 gallons in storage, but water is so vital that I'm always looking for ideas.
Thanks for the info!
Bodybagger,
Thanks for the info on cisterns. If you can think of anything else that would be helpful, PLEASE be sure to post it. Cisterns is a topic that I've been interested in for a long time. They used to be real common around here (Florida), but I haven't seen them in any houses built in my lifetime.
There is a large restored house at a state park here (Blue Springs State Park) that has a cistern on a tower. It's a two story house, and rainwater is piped to a short water tower. That gives pressurized water on the first floor. Very cool system.
I once talked to a missionary way out in the central american jungle about his water supply (talked via ham radio). He said they kept minnows in their cistern to keep out the mosquito larvae. Apparently theirs was an open top, or maybe semi-screened top cistern. In fact, I think I recall reading somewhere that centuries ago, the Japanese used goldfish for that same reason. The breeding of fancy goldfish then went from utilitarian to hobby.
What kind of screening/filtering do you have between the gutter system and the cistern? What kind of roof material do you have (asphalt shingles, metal, etc.)? Is there any kind of vent, or does the water-intake also serve as an air vent?
I've already got both an electric well and a hand pump well, as well as about 100 gallons in storage, but water is so vital that I'm always looking for ideas.
Thanks for the info!
I have 8, 55 gallon blue plastic water drums, bought newfor about $22 each. Filled and in the basement. Since there's just the two of us now, we have enough drinking water for about 200 days. And we have a Berkefeld filter to backstop our supply.
Christian for Israel
Knight of Jerusalem
my post from that thread:Terriannie said:
here's the cheap way to do it:
cover a washtub with loose plastic. inside is a couple inches of dirty water, along with a container set on top of a brick in the middle. a weight is placed in the middle of the plastic and slack is given until the weight rests just above the mouth of the container. then a cord is used to secure the plastic and the sun does the rest. painting the tub flat black inside and out will speed the process.
Attachments
Kristianna
Inactive
Lilrose ~ my DH just informed me that we can purchase those 5 gal. bottles at Home Depot. I am going to go in and take a look at the caps/tops of the bottles and see how they look.
Do you think that the bottles for retail might be a bit different than ones distributed by water services for offices?
Anyway, I'll investigate this. BTW, I did just find screwon caps online. I'll edit this with a link in a moment.
www.waterzilla.com
k
Do you think that the bottles for retail might be a bit different than ones distributed by water services for offices?
Anyway, I'll investigate this. BTW, I did just find screwon caps online. I'll edit this with a link in a moment.
www.waterzilla.com
k
Last edited:
The cap I use is called a "Dew Cap" I chose this one because it easily slides on and off and is re-usable. (plus I get them free from work 
)The screw cap is different and can leak easily. It would depend on how you were going to store the bottles. If it is on their side, you probably want one with a foam insert that stops leakage. What you don't want to order is anything with a tamper evident cap. These are the ones where you tear away a tab in order to get it off. These are not re-usable.
)The screw cap is different and can leak easily. It would depend on how you were going to store the bottles. If it is on their side, you probably want one with a foam insert that stops leakage. What you don't want to order is anything with a tamper evident cap. These are the ones where you tear away a tab in order to get it off. These are not re-usable.BugoutBear
Membership Revoked
FILTER FALLOUT OUT OF WATER!
Here is a quick way to filter radioactive particles out of water using two five gallon pails and some soil. Clay based soil works best.
AFTER USING THIS FILTER, THE WATER SHOULD BE BOILED OR FILTERED USING A GOOD CARBON OR CERAMIC FILTER AS A SECONDARY TREATMENT. IN THE EVENT OF AN EMERGENCY AND NO SECONDARY FILTER IS AVAILABLE, USE THE HOMEMADE FILTER BELOW.
These images are from Rex Jackson's Guide to Surviving Disasters.
www.unitedshelter.com
Fig 1
Emergency water filter (place in the sun). Clean water will accumulate in the pie plate.
Fig 2
Here is a quick way to filter radioactive particles out of water using two five gallon pails and some soil. Clay based soil works best.
AFTER USING THIS FILTER, THE WATER SHOULD BE BOILED OR FILTERED USING A GOOD CARBON OR CERAMIC FILTER AS A SECONDARY TREATMENT. IN THE EVENT OF AN EMERGENCY AND NO SECONDARY FILTER IS AVAILABLE, USE THE HOMEMADE FILTER BELOW.
These images are from Rex Jackson's Guide to Surviving Disasters.
www.unitedshelter.com
Fig 1
Emergency water filter (place in the sun). Clean water will accumulate in the pie plate.
Fig 2
Attachments
Replacement caps for various water containers can be made. Find a cap that's close to the size only a little larger. The important part is that the new cap be at least 1/2" deep or better. If the new caps/lids have threads similar to the bottle's threads even better.
100% silicone bath/window sealer. I prefer the clear..seems to be stronger for this purpose.
Clean the too large cap well with a degreaser.
Smear a little corn oil, grease, or wax on the bottle threads for a release agent.
Lay a layer/bead of the silicone around inside cap edge sufficient to make up the difference in size. You can always trim excess later.
Screw the new cap down over the bottle threads and let the silicone set at least 24hrs.
Unscrew the cap and wash off the oil.
You can also make your own 'ring washers' for leaking caps the same way with a little experimentation. I draw the lid circle and lay a bead on wax paper, then flatten with another layer of wax paper and a flat weight..like a coupla books. After it sets the new washer can be easily trimmed to exact size with scissors or knife.
RE those 5gal square water containers like found in sporting goods. The cap and spout are the weak points. Time and UV, or use/abuse will break 'em. The 2-part mason jar lids work fine. Same thread/same size.
100% silicone bath/window sealer. I prefer the clear..seems to be stronger for this purpose.
Clean the too large cap well with a degreaser.
Smear a little corn oil, grease, or wax on the bottle threads for a release agent.
Lay a layer/bead of the silicone around inside cap edge sufficient to make up the difference in size. You can always trim excess later.
Screw the new cap down over the bottle threads and let the silicone set at least 24hrs.
Unscrew the cap and wash off the oil.
You can also make your own 'ring washers' for leaking caps the same way with a little experimentation. I draw the lid circle and lay a bead on wax paper, then flatten with another layer of wax paper and a flat weight..like a coupla books. After it sets the new washer can be easily trimmed to exact size with scissors or knife.
RE those 5gal square water containers like found in sporting goods. The cap and spout are the weak points. Time and UV, or use/abuse will break 'em. The 2-part mason jar lids work fine. Same thread/same size.
Water saving tips. I'm not sure who wrote this,, it may have been TB's Plant Lady.
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Wringer washing machines are helpful. Wash light clothes first progressing to colored, then darks. You can usually get about 3 loads to the tub of water.
then, when you rinse, again, begin with the lights. You can get 2 rinses to the tub. Then, add soap to the rinse water and use it to wash another load or 2. Rinse your last 2 or 3 loads. You have just washed 5 loads of laundry on 3 tubs of water.
Wringers tend to hold a larger load than a standard washer, and in my experience, they get the clothes cleaner.
But you DO have to learn the PROPER method for wringing out the clothes or you will ruin them.
This same principal of reuse can also apply for dishes.
You place 2 metal basins of water to heat. When they get hot, add soap and dishes to one of the basins. Wash, dip clean dish in the other hot basin. You can wash several basins of dishes in the first soapy water basin. When it is too dirty to re-use, add soap to the rinse basin and use it to finish up any remaing dishes. Add fresh water to the basin you just emptied, warm and use for rinse.
Bathing
heat water, transfer to solar shower bag that has some cold water in it, add more cool water to adjust temprature, Place a large bowl or basin in the sink, hang up the bag above the sink so the nozzel is where you want it.
Moisten your hair just enough to get it wet. Add small amount of shampoo, lather, rinse. Use ONLY enough water to get the soap out. Hope you have thin hair or very short hair! Now, add SMALL amount of conditioner to hair (mostly on the ends cuz that's where you need it most anyway) and leave it there.
Now, use the hair washing water to wash the rest of you. Dump that water in a bucket, its good for soaking feet. Rinse out the conditioner from your hair using ONLY enough water to get it out. Use THAT water to rinse the soap off rest of you. Add to the bucket for soaking feet.
Conditioner helps remove soap residue from skin as well as hair, leaves your skin nice and soft..fragrant too.
If you did this carefully, you can take a complete bath using 1/2 gallon of water and be thoroughly clean. Keep your hair short and thinned if you have thick hair. Ladies, wear a head scarf to keep cooking polutants (grease) and dust out of your hair. Do not use mousse and hairspray etc. Braid long hair if you insist on having it, keep that under the scarf as well when at home.
In between full baths such as this, take a PTA bath and I will leave THAT to YOU to figure out. Save "full baths" for once or twice a week depending on how severe the water shortage. The method described is for SEVERE shortage...like when you can only get 50 gallons of water a week for about 5 people to get by on, and that 50 gallons has to work for drinking and cooking.
After the footbath, you can use the water to flush the toilet (add a little bleach) or recycle it (without bleach) as described above for 998% purity. I've been known to use it in the out door flowers. Use castile soap, not detergent.
Don't use conditioner unless you absolutely MUST. In fact, it's best if you dilute it some in warm water, and then use that on your hair. It spreads thru hair much easier, and you will need to use much less of it. Dime size is adequate diluted in water.
Use water from cooking vegetables and potatoes to make gravy's and soups. Freeze it ( or can it) if necessary till you get enough for a soup stock.
Water isn't necessary for canning meats. Just pack raw meat (with a little salt if you like) into clean hot sterile jars, cap off and pressure according to canner instructions. There will be juice in the jar when it's done. It will be fully cooked too. To use, Just add some water, veggies and let them cook in that juice till done. Your stew will be bursting with flavor!
Don't let the rinse faucet run while you wash dishes. Wash the dishes, and dip them to rinse. Refresh as needed. let the dog lick the plate before you wash it, or lick your own plate to remove any food particles and juices before washing. Wash water will stay cleaner longer. Make each person use the same plate each time they eat so they don't gross out over someone having licked their plate at the last meal
If you have plants, when you water catch the water that rinces thru the pot...add it back to the soil in the pot. Nine times out of ten just because the water ran out doesn't mean the plant was adequately watered.
PL
-----------------------------------
--------------------------
Wringer washing machines are helpful. Wash light clothes first progressing to colored, then darks. You can usually get about 3 loads to the tub of water.
then, when you rinse, again, begin with the lights. You can get 2 rinses to the tub. Then, add soap to the rinse water and use it to wash another load or 2. Rinse your last 2 or 3 loads. You have just washed 5 loads of laundry on 3 tubs of water.
Wringers tend to hold a larger load than a standard washer, and in my experience, they get the clothes cleaner.
But you DO have to learn the PROPER method for wringing out the clothes or you will ruin them.
This same principal of reuse can also apply for dishes.
You place 2 metal basins of water to heat. When they get hot, add soap and dishes to one of the basins. Wash, dip clean dish in the other hot basin. You can wash several basins of dishes in the first soapy water basin. When it is too dirty to re-use, add soap to the rinse basin and use it to finish up any remaing dishes. Add fresh water to the basin you just emptied, warm and use for rinse.
Bathing
heat water, transfer to solar shower bag that has some cold water in it, add more cool water to adjust temprature, Place a large bowl or basin in the sink, hang up the bag above the sink so the nozzel is where you want it.
Moisten your hair just enough to get it wet. Add small amount of shampoo, lather, rinse. Use ONLY enough water to get the soap out. Hope you have thin hair or very short hair! Now, add SMALL amount of conditioner to hair (mostly on the ends cuz that's where you need it most anyway) and leave it there.
Now, use the hair washing water to wash the rest of you. Dump that water in a bucket, its good for soaking feet. Rinse out the conditioner from your hair using ONLY enough water to get it out. Use THAT water to rinse the soap off rest of you. Add to the bucket for soaking feet.
Conditioner helps remove soap residue from skin as well as hair, leaves your skin nice and soft..fragrant too.
If you did this carefully, you can take a complete bath using 1/2 gallon of water and be thoroughly clean. Keep your hair short and thinned if you have thick hair. Ladies, wear a head scarf to keep cooking polutants (grease) and dust out of your hair. Do not use mousse and hairspray etc. Braid long hair if you insist on having it, keep that under the scarf as well when at home.
In between full baths such as this, take a PTA bath and I will leave THAT to YOU to figure out. Save "full baths" for once or twice a week depending on how severe the water shortage. The method described is for SEVERE shortage...like when you can only get 50 gallons of water a week for about 5 people to get by on, and that 50 gallons has to work for drinking and cooking.
After the footbath, you can use the water to flush the toilet (add a little bleach) or recycle it (without bleach) as described above for 998% purity. I've been known to use it in the out door flowers. Use castile soap, not detergent.
Don't use conditioner unless you absolutely MUST. In fact, it's best if you dilute it some in warm water, and then use that on your hair. It spreads thru hair much easier, and you will need to use much less of it. Dime size is adequate diluted in water.
Use water from cooking vegetables and potatoes to make gravy's and soups. Freeze it ( or can it) if necessary till you get enough for a soup stock.
Water isn't necessary for canning meats. Just pack raw meat (with a little salt if you like) into clean hot sterile jars, cap off and pressure according to canner instructions. There will be juice in the jar when it's done. It will be fully cooked too. To use, Just add some water, veggies and let them cook in that juice till done. Your stew will be bursting with flavor!
Don't let the rinse faucet run while you wash dishes. Wash the dishes, and dip them to rinse. Refresh as needed. let the dog lick the plate before you wash it, or lick your own plate to remove any food particles and juices before washing. Wash water will stay cleaner longer. Make each person use the same plate each time they eat so they don't gross out over someone having licked their plate at the last meal
If you have plants, when you water catch the water that rinces thru the pot...add it back to the soil in the pot. Nine times out of ten just because the water ran out doesn't mean the plant was adequately watered.
PL
-----------------------------------
While we're at it, be sure you learn the SAFE method for wringing out the clothes or you will ruin your hand. Getting a hand caught in a wringer used to be common enough that "wringer injury" is still used in some medical books to describe the injury caused by being squashed between two rollers.Synap said:
Splicer205
Deceased
We have a well, but even a well is no guarantee. A nearby fuel spill or some toxic release or spill could contaminate it real fast. Though we have a well, we pump it first to a cistern where it's treated with filters and UV light. Also have a hand pump on top of the cistern, and connections ready inside the house to pump directly from the well with a hand pump if electricity is off.
We keep the blue water barrels and a 425 gal. water tank, in addition to gal. jugs of spring water and the small drinking water bottles. Also keep bleach, iodine, water treatment tablets and stabilized oxygen on hand to treat "unthinkable" water. Hope we never have to use it.
We keep the blue water barrels and a 425 gal. water tank, in addition to gal. jugs of spring water and the small drinking water bottles. Also keep bleach, iodine, water treatment tablets and stabilized oxygen on hand to treat "unthinkable" water. Hope we never have to use it.
Stephen..yep..not-so fond childhood memories. BTDT.
Found this in my prep archives..donno the source/link.
Two chemicals usually found in the home will be effective for water disinfection.
Chlorine bleach (Clorox, Purex, etc...) is an excellent disinfectant for water. (Note: Chlorine kills bacteria, but only some to many viruses, depending on the chlorination (simple to Superchlorination). Iodine kills bacteria and viruses.) Check the label for the percentage of sodium hypochlorite (chlorine) present. Then follow this chart:
1% 40 drops per gallon
4 to 6 % 8 drops per gallon
7 to 10 % 4 drops per gallon
Mix thoroughly and let stand for 30 minutes. The water should have a slight chlorine odor. If not, repeat the dose and let the water stand 15 minutes more. Chlorine tends to break down after 6 months in your stored water.
People just can not store enough liquid chlorine bleach for what is coming. Also, it weakens over time. I have investigated this matter and have found that swimming pool water purifications have the bleach in dry form. But, beware, you don't want something that has all sorts of other chemicals listed. It may not list them, but will say it has clarifiers, anti-foamers, etc. in the dry bleach---stay away from this type.
One brand we recommend is Granular Dry Chlorinator by PoolTime. You can get it at Home Depot for $44.00. It comes in 25 pound plastic buckets and consists primarily of Calcium Hypochlorite. We like this brand because Calcium Hypochlorite [Ca(OCl)2] is not hygroscopic (does not attract water); practically clear in water solution; and, which is very important, a stable chlorine carrier. A strong oxidizing material (read our book, Chemical/Biological WarFare ... How You Can Survive for more information on oxidizing material for chemical and biological agents.
Note :
Sodium hypochlorite is the liquid form of chlorine, known as Laundry Bleach (Purex and Clorox, for example) to most persons.
Calcium hypochlorite is the dry or solid form of chlorine and comes in tablet or powder form.
Iodine from your medicine cabinet or first aid kit will also purify water. It will usually be found at the strength of 2% United States Pharmacopoeia (U.S.P).
For clear water, add 20 drops per gallon
For cloudy water, add 40 drops per gallon
Let stand in a sealed container for 30 minutes before drinking.
Found this in my prep archives..donno the source/link.
Two chemicals usually found in the home will be effective for water disinfection.
Chlorine bleach (Clorox, Purex, etc...) is an excellent disinfectant for water. (Note: Chlorine kills bacteria, but only some to many viruses, depending on the chlorination (simple to Superchlorination). Iodine kills bacteria and viruses.) Check the label for the percentage of sodium hypochlorite (chlorine) present. Then follow this chart:
1% 40 drops per gallon
4 to 6 % 8 drops per gallon
7 to 10 % 4 drops per gallon
Mix thoroughly and let stand for 30 minutes. The water should have a slight chlorine odor. If not, repeat the dose and let the water stand 15 minutes more. Chlorine tends to break down after 6 months in your stored water.
People just can not store enough liquid chlorine bleach for what is coming. Also, it weakens over time. I have investigated this matter and have found that swimming pool water purifications have the bleach in dry form. But, beware, you don't want something that has all sorts of other chemicals listed. It may not list them, but will say it has clarifiers, anti-foamers, etc. in the dry bleach---stay away from this type.
One brand we recommend is Granular Dry Chlorinator by PoolTime. You can get it at Home Depot for $44.00. It comes in 25 pound plastic buckets and consists primarily of Calcium Hypochlorite. We like this brand because Calcium Hypochlorite [Ca(OCl)2] is not hygroscopic (does not attract water); practically clear in water solution; and, which is very important, a stable chlorine carrier. A strong oxidizing material (read our book, Chemical/Biological WarFare ... How You Can Survive for more information on oxidizing material for chemical and biological agents.
Note :
Sodium hypochlorite is the liquid form of chlorine, known as Laundry Bleach (Purex and Clorox, for example) to most persons.
Calcium hypochlorite is the dry or solid form of chlorine and comes in tablet or powder form.
Iodine from your medicine cabinet or first aid kit will also purify water. It will usually be found at the strength of 2% United States Pharmacopoeia (U.S.P).
For clear water, add 20 drops per gallon
For cloudy water, add 40 drops per gallon
Let stand in a sealed container for 30 minutes before drinking.
New Freedom
Veteran Member
Behind our house there is a stream that empties into a pond/rain reservoir. It is hidden in the woods and is untouched except for the frogs, ducks, etc. Is there anyway we could use this water? I was thinking that if we boiled it, then ran it through a filter it should be ok. Any thoughts?
New Freedom..see http://www.pwgazette.com/gravity.htm These folks have tested their Doulton gravity fed filter systems with heavily duck poop infested water and lab-proven their efficiency.
New Freedom
Veteran Member
Synap....thanks for the link!! I'll be checking it out!!!
Mrs Smith
Inactive
LilRose:
The cistern lid is flush with the family room floor. The floor of the room is concrete with padding and carpeting over top. The manhole lid is under the padding, which is cut so we can move the couch, pull up that piece of carpeting and access the cistern. It's 10' deep x 18' long x 12' wide.
The water pump and filters are in the basement.
Critters can't get into the cistern due to screens on the gutters and a leaf/gunk guard at the top of the downspouts, which drain directly into the cistern.
If you have any other questions, ask away. I'd be happy to share any info I can with you.
The cistern lid is flush with the family room floor. The floor of the room is concrete with padding and carpeting over top. The manhole lid is under the padding, which is cut so we can move the couch, pull up that piece of carpeting and access the cistern. It's 10' deep x 18' long x 12' wide.
The water pump and filters are in the basement.
Critters can't get into the cistern due to screens on the gutters and a leaf/gunk guard at the top of the downspouts, which drain directly into the cistern.
If you have any other questions, ask away. I'd be happy to share any info I can with you.
Bodybagger,
I've seen where some cistern users have an arrangement that lets the first gallon or so of rainwater get bypassed so that any "stuff" that is on the roof gets washed away before water starts going into the cistern. Do you have anything like that or if not, do you see an advantage in it?
What kind of roof material do you have?
Thanks.
I've seen where some cistern users have an arrangement that lets the first gallon or so of rainwater get bypassed so that any "stuff" that is on the roof gets washed away before water starts going into the cistern. Do you have anything like that or if not, do you see an advantage in it?
What kind of roof material do you have?
Thanks.
Mrs Smith
Inactive
No Stephen, the water from the downspouts goes directly into the cistern. With it being so big, any little leaf stems or little maple "helicopters" sink to the bottom, and even with a flashlight we really don't see much on the bottom.
There's a PVC water pipe that hangs into the water and stops about 18" off the bottom of the cistern so it doesn't draw any water from that depth down. There's also a screen on the bottom on that pipe so even something that may be suspended in the water doesn't enter the pipe.
Our roof is a regular shingle roof.
There's a PVC water pipe that hangs into the water and stops about 18" off the bottom of the cistern so it doesn't draw any water from that depth down. There's also a screen on the bottom on that pipe so even something that may be suspended in the water doesn't enter the pipe.
Our roof is a regular shingle roof.
The cone device looks very polished and neat, almost foolproof in its simplicity. I only have one unfortunately severe problem with the whole concept.
The base of the cone is open to the dirty water. Anything splashing it can cause the bad water to be mixed into the distilled. Worse, the flange on the bottom of the cone will be wet with the bad water. When it is turned up to pour out your distilled water, the bad water will, not can, will drip into your distilled water.
A much less major concern is the fact that the distilled water is next to the heated water in the base. It will also be heated by the sun-heated bad water and the efficiency per square area is reduced by the re-distilling of the distilled water already collected in the flange. This inefficiency is unavoidable in such a simple and otherwise foolproof design.
There was a company a few years back developing an inflatable floating cone distiller that had a straw to draw off the distilled water in its cuff. Wonder if it ever got off the ground, so to speak. That company said that reflectors around the cone concentrating the sunlight could increase throuput bu 50% or more.
The base of the cone is open to the dirty water. Anything splashing it can cause the bad water to be mixed into the distilled. Worse, the flange on the bottom of the cone will be wet with the bad water. When it is turned up to pour out your distilled water, the bad water will, not can, will drip into your distilled water.
A much less major concern is the fact that the distilled water is next to the heated water in the base. It will also be heated by the sun-heated bad water and the efficiency per square area is reduced by the re-distilling of the distilled water already collected in the flange. This inefficiency is unavoidable in such a simple and otherwise foolproof design.
There was a company a few years back developing an inflatable floating cone distiller that had a straw to draw off the distilled water in its cuff. Wonder if it ever got off the ground, so to speak. That company said that reflectors around the cone concentrating the sunlight could increase throuput bu 50% or more.
Thanks, Bodybagger! More questions if you don't mind:
Can you provide more details on the clean out procedure?
1) With the 18" of water that is not pumpable from the PVC pipe, how do you pump it dry?
2) Is there any kind of drain on the bottom? I would assume not, but wanted to verify that.
3) I assume that clean out means you get down inside the cistern. If you're using bleach water to clean it, are you pumping fresh air in while you're down there?
4) How do you light it enough to work in there? I would assume that you don't have lights installed, and I suspect flashlights wouldn't provide enough. Do you hang shop lights in through the access hatch?
5) Is there any kind of sealant used on the inside, or is it bare concrete? I would guess that it's sealed similar to a swimming pool.
6) Do you have any way of knowing what the water level is? Any kind of float gauge or anything?
I hope you don't mind all the questions. I'm taking notes and add them to my "house building wish list". Again, thanks for all the help!
Can you provide more details on the clean out procedure?
1) With the 18" of water that is not pumpable from the PVC pipe, how do you pump it dry?
2) Is there any kind of drain on the bottom? I would assume not, but wanted to verify that.
3) I assume that clean out means you get down inside the cistern. If you're using bleach water to clean it, are you pumping fresh air in while you're down there?
4) How do you light it enough to work in there? I would assume that you don't have lights installed, and I suspect flashlights wouldn't provide enough. Do you hang shop lights in through the access hatch?
5) Is there any kind of sealant used on the inside, or is it bare concrete? I would guess that it's sealed similar to a swimming pool.
6) Do you have any way of knowing what the water level is? Any kind of float gauge or anything?
I hope you don't mind all the questions. I'm taking notes and add them to my "house building wish list". Again, thanks for all the help!
Mrs Smith
Inactive
Can you provide more details on the clean out procedure?
1) With the 18" of water that is not pumpable from the PVC pipe, how do you pump it dry? We rent a small underwater pump for the last couple feet. It doesn't take that long to pump it out.
2) Is there any kind of drain on the bottom? I would assume not, but wanted to verify that. No drain. Just a huge concrete underground room.
3) I assume that clean out means you get down inside the cistern. If you're using bleach water to clean it, are you pumping fresh air in while you're down there?
One of us goes down in it at a time, while the other mans a box fan atop. It's so big that the fumes aren't bad with the fan going. But if anything should happen, at least we're both not down there together. One above for safety.
4) How do you light it enough to work in there? I would assume that you don't have lights installed, and I suspect flashlights wouldn't provide enough. Do you hang shop lights in through the access hatch? A single-bulb drop light on an extension cord works great.
5) Is there any kind of sealant used on the inside, or is it bare concrete? I would guess that it's sealed similar to a swimming pool. It's sealed with a product called Thoroughseal, I believe. It's a product used by professional cistern sealers, safe for drinking water. We had to wait three days for it to dry, but it's sealed very well. There's no leakage between the blocks.
6) Do you have any way of knowing what the water level is? Any kind of float gauge or anything?
No, but in six years we've never run out. Our neighbors have a small hole drilled in the corner of the floor with a tennis ball on a float. When the ball drops to a certain level, they know they're getting low.
1) With the 18" of water that is not pumpable from the PVC pipe, how do you pump it dry? We rent a small underwater pump for the last couple feet. It doesn't take that long to pump it out.
2) Is there any kind of drain on the bottom? I would assume not, but wanted to verify that. No drain. Just a huge concrete underground room.
3) I assume that clean out means you get down inside the cistern. If you're using bleach water to clean it, are you pumping fresh air in while you're down there?
One of us goes down in it at a time, while the other mans a box fan atop. It's so big that the fumes aren't bad with the fan going. But if anything should happen, at least we're both not down there together. One above for safety.
4) How do you light it enough to work in there? I would assume that you don't have lights installed, and I suspect flashlights wouldn't provide enough. Do you hang shop lights in through the access hatch? A single-bulb drop light on an extension cord works great.
5) Is there any kind of sealant used on the inside, or is it bare concrete? I would guess that it's sealed similar to a swimming pool. It's sealed with a product called Thoroughseal, I believe. It's a product used by professional cistern sealers, safe for drinking water. We had to wait three days for it to dry, but it's sealed very well. There's no leakage between the blocks.
6) Do you have any way of knowing what the water level is? Any kind of float gauge or anything?
No, but in six years we've never run out. Our neighbors have a small hole drilled in the corner of the floor with a tennis ball on a float. When the ball drops to a certain level, they know they're getting low.
My two cents
This thread is great and full of good info but what about those of us who have to hit the road in a situation.
Personally I have plans for redundancy. I have a nice Kataydyn Backpacking filter. A couple of military-like canteen top filters, tablets and some bleach...and then of course the possibility of boiling.
For me water is the largest concern I have......I place it above food and for the most part shelter. If I have to go this will be my limiting factor....and it is so dang heavy.
To help me I have established a few BO routes which closely follow water. I am not planning on making great time but I do plan staying deep in the brush and away from as much civilization as possible.
If anyone has any other "portable" water suggestions...I would appreciate them....and the plastic in over a pot method is another option I would have....you can even use that method with urine.
If I have to stay put......I would hope I have enough forsight to stockpile some water.....but I also live about a mile from a nice size stream...they call it a river...so water is available.....I would use the solar distill method if I had to drink this.
Just my two cents...input is greatly appreciated.
This thread is great and full of good info but what about those of us who have to hit the road in a situation.
Personally I have plans for redundancy. I have a nice Kataydyn Backpacking filter. A couple of military-like canteen top filters, tablets and some bleach...and then of course the possibility of boiling.
For me water is the largest concern I have......I place it above food and for the most part shelter. If I have to go this will be my limiting factor....and it is so dang heavy.
To help me I have established a few BO routes which closely follow water. I am not planning on making great time but I do plan staying deep in the brush and away from as much civilization as possible.
If anyone has any other "portable" water suggestions...I would appreciate them....and the plastic in over a pot method is another option I would have....you can even use that method with urine.
If I have to stay put......I would hope I have enough forsight to stockpile some water.....but I also live about a mile from a nice size stream...they call it a river...so water is available.....I would use the solar distill method if I had to drink this.
Just my two cents...input is greatly appreciated.
yellowsprings
Inactive
Bump for the new members ...
Old Reliable
Veteran Member
High volume of potable water from many sources.
Published on Nov 25, 2012
A portable water filter system I built for many purposes. Providing large amount of potable water for your family or community in a emergency. Using the Doulton Rio 2000, a pre filter and a 12 volt pump. I have a dedicated solar panel and charge controller to keep the battery charged.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVI9YDsOZj8
Published on Nov 25, 2012
A portable water filter system I built for many purposes. Providing large amount of potable water for your family or community in a emergency. Using the Doulton Rio 2000, a pre filter and a 12 volt pump. I have a dedicated solar panel and charge controller to keep the battery charged.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVI9YDsOZj8
Old Gray Mare
TB Fanatic
Plenty of springs in our area. Do not foresee water being a significant problem.