TOMATO HANGING BUCKETS - DIY photo demonstration.

Observer999

Inactive
OK, you gardeners - here is my photo demonstration of preparing hanging growing buckets for tomatoes or ?. Very easy and economical, so don't hesitate trying it!

Basic Supplies:
  • 2 gal. plastic paint bucket (i.e. from Home Depot, or ?) with good sturdy steel handle. Cost: less than $3.00 + it's reuseable yr. after yr.
  • weed cloth or in my case some plastic reinforced 'house wrap' - anything that is strong and not easily torn or degraded.
  • starter plant (i.e. tomatoe, etc.)
  • marker
  • scissors
  • razor knife
  • potting soil
  • hanging rope or chain, or ?
#1 - Bucket and Basic Supplies
Note: the roll of tape is being used as a template only.
Bucket_1.jpg


#2 - Mark the hole location in the bottom of the bucket using any suitable template (i.e. roll of tape, or ?) that gives you a 3 to 4 inch
dia. hole.

Bucket_2.jpg


#3 - Marking the bucket fabric
Turn the bucket right side up and use as a template for marking
the fabric for cutting.
Bucket_3.jpg


#4 - Marking the bucket fabric Part II
Reposition the bucket over marked fabric after cutting out the 3 to 4 inch.
hole in the bottom of the bucket.
Use this hole to trace this bucket hole onto the fabric.
Also mark the cross cut lines as shown.
Bucket_4.jpg


#5 - Cut the fabric
Cut out the bucket fabric as marked, but remember - do not cut out
the inner circle. Using your razor knife just slice the cross-hairs you
marked creating flaps.
Bucket_5.jpg


#6 - Prepared fabric in bucket
Note: I used my bottle of water to show you the flap configuration
only.

Bucket_6.jpg


#7 - Prepared Bucket - ready for planting
Bucket_7.jpg


Continued Below ....
 

Observer999

Inactive
#8 - Bucket and potted tomatoe plant
Bucket_8.jpg


#9 - Bucket on temporary hanging rope
- allows easy reach access while performing the planting process.
Bucket_9.jpg


#10 - Successful Installation
Notes: my subject tomato plant was well developed (about 12" tall),
which makes it a challenge to tread the stalk and branches through the
3 to 4 inch hole in the bucket without damaging the plant. I just took
my time - supporting the root ball with one hand while carefully pushing
each branch gently through the fabric and hole.

Once completely inserted, carefully slide the plant around until it's
stalk is center in the hole.

Then fill the bucket with good potting soil, compact and water throughly.
Bucket_10.jpg


#11 - View from below
Tomato plant looks a little limp, but it will recover nicely.
Bucket_11.jpg


#12 - What you can expect
These were transfered to buckets approx. 3 weeks ago. Also,
the third bucket from the left is a bean plant I'm experimenting
with using this bucket concept.
Bucket_12.jpg


#13 - Don't let the 'soil' real estate go unused!
About one week after transfer, after the soil has settled I planted
herb seeds - see those little guys starting to emerge? You could
plant flowers instead, for some eye candy!
Bucket_13.jpg


#14 - My Alternate Paradise
our greenhouse has been providing us all the fresh greens we can consume
since March, when we still had 3 foot of snow on the ground.
Bucket_14.jpg


One last piece of advise (from experience). Your hanging tomato plants will start to seek the typical vertical growth configuration. When watering, avoid spraying and soaking these tomato branches with water. I found the sudden weight of the water caused one main stalk to drop and the stalk got kinked. Just water from the top of the bucket.

I hope this inspires you guys to try this.

Enjoy and good luck!

:dstrs:
 

SAR01

Social ButterFly
thank you for the photo step by step... they look wonderful, I tried 2 different times this spring, but both died. I think I did not let them get big enough before I transplanted. will try once more.

I hope the beans work put, too.
 

Iowa Prep

Contributing Member
Thank you...I have been looking for something like this for a little while...great job with the photos.
 

almost ready

Inactive
Observer999

Thanks! This looks like a fun project. Big question: Which variety of tomatoes are you using? Are they bush tomatoes (determinate). I mostly grow "money maker" in my greenhouse, and they are a real pain. They grow so tall, they are difficult to handle. Would like to switch to a shorter variety.

Your greenhouse is GORGEOUS! Really beautiful.Can I bug you with another question? Where do you get the black tubs. They look just right for the lettuce and green onions.
 
Last edited:

It'sJustMe

Deceased
Thank you so much for showing us your wonderful ideas, Observer999! I plan to try this soon! I echo what almost ready said, your greenhouse is wonderful! I am SO envious! May I ask what you have your awesome looking corn planted in? IJM
 

Observer999

Inactive
Thanks! This looks like a fun project. Big question: Which variety of tomatoes are you using? Are they bush tomatoes (determinate). I mostly grow "money maker" in my greenhouse, and they are a real pain. They grow so tall, they are difficult to handle. Would like to switch to a shorter variety.

Your greenhouse is GORGEOUS! Really beautiful.Can I bug you with another question? Where do you get the black tubs. They look just right for the lettuce and green onions.

Actually, I'm trying four different tomato varieties including:
  • Costaluto Genovese (Heirloom)
  • Martian Giant
  • San Marzano
  • Thessaloniki
The bean bucket is the 'Cascadia Bush Snap' variety.

The tubs were a steal! I was in Home Depot last year and these 'cement mixing tubs' were being cleared out at $2.50 /ea. (normally over $12.00 /ea.). Needless to say, I bought everything they had left - approx. 16 tubs. They're approx. 8 inches deep and I drilled 3/8" holes around the perimeter of each tub approx. 1" above the bottom for drainage.

As you can see from the pictures, the plants seem to be loving them.

We got Spinach, Bunching Onions, Leeks, Radishes, Shallots, Lettuce, Broccoli, and Peppers. All doing great!

These heavy black plastic tubs support the soil well and soaks up the sunlight, heating the soil quickly during the critical start of the growing (germination) season.

:dstrs:
 

Observer999

Inactive
Thank you so much for showing us your wonderful ideas, Observer999! I plan to try this soon! I echo what almost ready said, your greenhouse is wonderful! I am SO envious! May I ask what you have your awesome looking corn planted in? IJM

I was told that corn can't be transplanted - so I decided to experiment.

I started these in small 3 inch pots; once they reached about 5 inches I transplanted to large flower pots (5 gal. size). They apparently survived and are thriving. My original intent was to transplant to the garden, but by the time they were 5 inches tall, we still had 3' of snow covering the garden, so pots were my only option.

In the past (especially this year with the long, long, winter we experienced) we've had difficulty growing corn because of the shorter growing season here.

I have three pots with two plants per pot. I'll let ya know what kind of results we get, but so far, so good!

:dstrs:
 

Glowy SC

Senior Member
Could you pretty please show more pictures of your greenhouse. I am going to have one in the next few years and would like to see what others do with the space that they have.
 

Butterfly

Senior Member
Glowy, I'm glad that you asked about the greenhouse. I was drooling over it. I want one so badly. I have the perfect spot on the south side of my house.
 

Observer999

Inactive
Could you pretty please show more pictures of your greenhouse. I am going to have one in the next few years and would like to see what others do with the space that they have.

Sure ...

Specifications:
  • 8' x 24' overall size
  • 8' x 20' interior growing area
  • solid insulated rear wall (north wall) - since at our northern latitude the highest the sun gets during the peak summer months is 70 degrees off the south horizon, the typical double sloping roof greenhouse would be very inefficient. This model (our original prototype) avoids this heat waste/dump while providing a northwall heat-sink and additional growing areas. In this 20' greenhouse, we can have a maximum of 100' lineal feet of growing area (front wall 2 rows @ 20' + rear wall 3 rows @ 20').
  • all greenhouse main frames are commercial hot-dip galvanized steel (think of those silver colored traffic light poles) - providing a completely non-rusting 50 plus year life expectancy.
  • the glazing is double-wall polycarbonate commercial grade glazing - dramatically improving insulation values, not to mention superior strength.
We are currently designing and building a retail model (same single sloping roof design) that will be even more efficient; just as durable (2x2x16 gage galvanized steel frames) and easily shipped and assembled. This specific greenhouse design with it's material specification is being offered as a LIFETIME greenhouse - no replacing rotting lumber or inferior materials.

Enjoy the pictures and let me know if you have any questions!

GH_1.jpg


GH_2.jpg


GH_3.jpg


GH_4.jpg



:dstrs:
 

Knell

Inactive
Very Cool, Observer! I have the frame from our son's old swing in the back yard. I wonder how this idea would work in the TX heat?
 

KenGin31

Veteran Member
Love the green houses. Picked up one from Wallmart 10x10 for $225. Here S. Ga. not much use for one in the summer.
 

Observer999

Inactive
Very Cool, Observer! I have the frame from our son's old swing in the back yard. I wonder how this idea would work in the TX heat?

Should work great - especially as a cold frame in fall and early spring!

Another VERY INEXPENSIVE DIY greenhouse design is to use those heavy gage (IIRC 4 ga.) 16' long cattle panels. They can be very easily bent into a half-circle (or half hoop) configuration with stakes securing the ends at the ground. Also, nail or screw horizontal 2 x 4's at ground level from stake to stake with the cattle panels positioned to the inside surface. These horizontal 2 x 4's will be used to help secure the poly plastic (as described below). Wire tie multiple panels together to build any length greenhouse you desire.

Then using 2 x 4's, frame the two open ends of this erected hoop structure including one end framed with door opening.

Cover the whole thing with heavy weight clear poly plastic, using those roof felt nails that have the large plastic washers to secure to the 2 x 4 framing; and tape any seams with special plastic weatherproof tape.

You can use cheap cotton or nylon clothesline rope every two to four feet (over the plastic and cattle panels to help hold and secure the plastic sheathing. Securely tie the rope to the ground level horizontal 2 x 4's.

Also, in the end framing (opposite the door) you might consider including a operable louver door for cross ventilation.

Total cost for a 15' long hoop greenhouse like this should be less than $250.00 worth of materials.

:dstrs:
 

Butterfly

Senior Member
Terrific idea Observer999. I use cattle panels as a trellis for my gourds and cukes. Easy to put up and take down in the fall. I like the greenhouse idea. Thanks.
 

changed

Preferred pronouns: dude/bro
I kinda don't understand this. Its kinda like saying you can drive your car with all four wheels on the ground, but why not try driving around on 2 wheels?
 

Michigan Majik

FreeSpirit, with attitude
Thanks Observer999 !!!!!
This looks like a project I could actually do, just by following your pictures !
Your green house is fabulous. Kudos !
 

China Connection

TB Fanatic
add a couple of holes half way up the sides

Cut out your round piece of weed mat and let it over hang a small round pot and stick a tomarto seedling in the center and when it get a go on then trans pot into the hanging basket.

Actually there is nothing to stop you adding a couple of holes half way up the sides of the basket and adding some more tomarto plants or whatever.
 
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