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GUNS/RLTD Is There No Bottom To AR Prices? $260 AR Carbine Kit (Will Need Lower)
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  1. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by ArisenCarcass View Post
    I've never understood this. I've assembled countless lowers, and never lost a detent pin.

    Place spring. Place detent pin. Press back detent pin with the end of the front takedown pin, and press FTDP into its hole when it is lined up. No tools necessary for assembly of this part, and it is insanely easy. I just don't get it.




    Any fighting rifle should get a paint job to match the environment anyway. Trying to duplicate multicam is a good idea. Some guys will advocate different things. Options include cerekote, duracoat, gunkote, or rattle can finishes. They all have their advantages in terms of cost, durability, customizability, and time.

    I usually try to get an FDE basecoat in a more durable finish (though sometimes I just rattle can this on as well, 'cuz....impatience), topped with rattle can camo and a flat clear coat to increase durability. It may chip with hard use, but it does the job and can always be touched up. YMMV
    Well Arisen, you're a better man than me! I have lost two takedown detent pins so far assembling a few lowers. For me I've had trouble lining up the takedown pin while simultaneously retaining the detent pin. Inevitably for me something slips and the pin goes flying before the takedown pin gets in the hole. I started using a clevis pin (which can be bought for about $2 at Lowe's and which I turn with a pin punch to retain the detent and spring - rather hard to explain here without pictures) that gets pushed out by the takedown pin while retaining the detent, which helps some, but even with it I've lost one detent pin. I guess I could have strategized a little better to trap the little buggers when they do fly out so I don't lose 'em! But other than that, everything else about assembling the lower is quite easy if one has basic gunsmithing tools (punches and a small gunsmithing hammer with brass and plastic faces).

  2. #42
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Behind Enemy Lines
    Posts
    165,182
    The takedown pin (the one in the rear) is easy enough.

    1) Insert the big pin

    2) drop the detent pin in the hole

    3) drop the spring in the hole

    4) mount the back plate and buffer tube and tighten

    You actually don't have to touch any of the pins after (3). They'll just stay there.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Happy on the mountain
    Posts
    67,893
    IIRC a .25" pin punch (Inserted from the left side of the lower) can be used as a slave pin to hold the spring and detent pin in place until the front takedown pin can be pushed in from the right. Lube the hole for the spring before assembling to avoid corrosion ...
    The wonder of our time isnít how angry we are at politics and politicians; itís how little weíve done about it. - Fran Porretto
    -http://bastionofliberty.blogspot.com/2016/10/a-wholly-rational-hatred.html

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    31,340
    Quote Originally Posted by Dozdoats View Post
    IIRC a .25" pin punch (Inserted from the left side of the lower) can be used as a slave pin to hold the spring and detent pin in place until the front takedown pin can be pushed in from the right. Lube the hole for the spring before assembling to avoid corrosion ...
    Or the butt end of a drill bit.
    Proud Infidel...............and Cracker

    Member: Nowski Brigade

    Deplorable


  5. #45
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Happy on the mountain
    Posts
    67,893
    Often in assembling an AR lower, a third hand would come in handy. Here's a potential substitute - fits in the magazine well and clamps into your vise.

    https://tigerrockinc.com/Lower-Recei...se-Block-AR-15

    The wonder of our time isnít how angry we are at politics and politicians; itís how little weíve done about it. - Fran Porretto
    -http://bastionofliberty.blogspot.com/2016/10/a-wholly-rational-hatred.html

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Paradise, New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,207
    A nice pair of large channel locks avoids the need for a punch, hammer and third hand... it also avoids nasty marks if the punch slips. I place a piece of plastic milk bottle between the channel lock surfaces and the lower assy (avoids scratches).
    ďDonít pick a fight, but if you find yourself in one, I suggest you make damn sure you win.Ē - John Wayne

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Happy on the mountain
    Posts
    67,893
    The vice (appropriately padded) can be used to press in pins in tricky places also.
    The wonder of our time isnít how angry we are at politics and politicians; itís how little weíve done about it. - Fran Porretto
    -http://bastionofliberty.blogspot.com/2016/10/a-wholly-rational-hatred.html

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    31,340
    The one that deals me misery is the bolt release roll pin.

    I've been gonna build a fixture for that, but don't do them enough to justify the time spent.



    Proud Infidel...............and Cracker

    Member: Nowski Brigade

    Deplorable


  9. #49
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    2,905
    If people are looking for a decent AR lower Cabelas used to sell the Anderson lowers. I would buy 1 or 2 every time I went in. I think they were 50$ and they gave a military discount.

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    1,890
    For some cheats, cut off the front pivot pin detent spring until it sits 1/16" below flush when dropped into the hole. That leaves room enough to stand the detent in the hole. Just press it down with the side of the front pin and insert, done.

    For the bolt catch roll pin, start it with a small tack hammer after putting masking tape on the side of the receiver so you don't scratch it. Get it so it just barely starts to protrude into the slot where the bolt catch goes. If you go to far just stick a flat head screw driver blade in the slot and press it back almost flush. Drop in the spring, then the mushroom shaped detent pin. Hold the bolt catch in place and tap in the roll pin with the tack hammer. If it binds it is missing the hole, just wiggle it around and you will feel if get a little slack when it lines up, then tap in the pin.


    Make sure you put the hammer spring on the right way, it works either way but gets light strikes and is not reliable if you put it on backwards. Lay it in your hand so it sits flat with the two open wires facing you and the more pointed closed end pointing away from you (Pointing at the "Enemy"). Orient the hammer face toward the "enemy" and fit it into the springs two loops, it is now ready to install.

    The hammer should be cocked before installing the safety selector. Don't forget, an AR wont go on "Safe" if the hammer is down.



    If your safety is hard to turn oil it well then work it a few hundred times. This usually does the trick. If not, cut a couple of coils off of the spring.


    Check the trigger reset and work it a few hundred times with oil on it after the lower is built. This smooths out any burrs and gives you a better trigger pull.

    Oil the receiver extension (Buffer tube) very well. There is a lot of friction on the spring and buffer against the sides of the extension.

    The number ONE way people ruin a lower is with the trigger guard roll pin. Make sure the bottom ear is supported on something solid, like the corner of a wooden work bench as you hammer in the pin. If you just lay it down on a work bench and hammer in the pin, it can break the ear off if the pin has any misalignment.

    We had a 100% guarantee on all of our lowers and I replaced a dozen or so due to customer errors breaking the ears off. I kept these lowers for myself and JB welded up the broken spot, spray painted it and built it. I have several entire guns built from nearly 100% returned and broken parts. A little gunsmithing goes a long way and I will put these hand tuned Frankenstein guns up against anyone's high dollar safe queen for overall reliability.

  11. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    2,451
    Quote Originally Posted by Thinwater View Post
    The number ONE way people ruin a lower is with the trigger guard roll pin. Make sure the bottom ear is supported on something solid, like the corner of a wooden work bench as you hammer in the pin. If you just lay it down on a work bench and hammer in the pin, it can break the ear off if the pin has any misalignment.
    That's the one that always made me nervous. I broke down and picked up one of these: https://www.littlecrowgunworks.com/s...her-p106089763

    Was known as dairyfarmer but sold the cows.

  12. #52
    Channel locks that have padding (duck tape) will support both sides.
    They will also press in the bolt stop/catch.

    Occasionally, a roll pin may also need a SMALL amount of squeezing (SLIGHTLY reduce the diameter of the starting end) to assist in starting. NBD.

    I usually use an old, worn-out mag for my vise block needs. Repurpose those split Magpuls and pretty much all Thermolds. Take out the internals for later use, of course.

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