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HELP "Dynamic Control Sensor"?
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  1. #1
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    5 "Dynamic Control Sensor"?

    Anyone know what this is? All I can find is on Wrnglers, mine is a Cherokee. Shop says $500 to replace so I'm gathering info on it and such.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

  2. #2
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    It might help to know the year, make, and model of the vehicle that needs the sensor. Some sensors can be easy to replace and others a pain. If you're somewhat serious about DIY get a repair manual. At the very least you can read about it and decide for yourself if the job is within your ability AND if you already have the tools for it.

  3. #3
    Dunno, have no inside knowledge, but it might be something that alters steering sensitivity based on your speed. There are such things.

  4. #4
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    My new mech never heard of it and suggested I call a different Jeep delaership and aks for one at their parts department. Seems it is an Acceleration control sensor also called a Yaw Rate senor.

    Still researching.

    It's an '07 grand cherokee with the Hemi v8.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

  5. #5
    Here's some Q and A on this site. It sounds like an easy fix if it's the same thing. http://www.fixya.com/cars/t7286773-s...ensor_interior

  6. #6
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    this guy?

    Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Yaw Rate Sensor

    Common signs include the Check Engine Light, Vehicle Stability, or Traction Control Lights coming on and the Stability Control Light flashing.
    by Timothy Charlet on

    January 13, 2016


    https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...aw-rate-sensor
    “The quieter you become, the more you can hear.”
    ― Ram Dass

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Satanta View Post
    Anyone know what this is? All I can find is on Wrnglers, mine is a Cherokee. Shop says $500 to replace so I'm gathering info on it and such.
    Half must be labor. Quick search $255 https://www.autozone.com/engine-mana...-cherokee/2007
    “The quieter you become, the more you can hear.”
    ― Ram Dass

  8. #8
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    Edited, others already answered.
    Facts?? We don't need no stinkin facts...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by onetimer View Post
    Half must be labor. Quick search $255 https://www.autozone.com/engine-mana...-cherokee/2007
    My research says it is under the center console.

    I see them for a little over $100 to the 200+ price range.

    Seems strange the vehicle won't start because of it but I've not found anything involving that particular issue yet.

    Also seems strange they could not find that when they ran the scans a few days ago yet here it is.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

  10. #10
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    Tell me you need a $500 sensor to keep you on the road??? Drive more slowly and do without it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Rusty in NC
    Don't tread on me!
    sic semper evello mortem tyrannis
    Wickr tiger133

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiger13 View Post
    Tell me you need a $500 sensor to keep you on the road??? Drive more slowly and do without it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Yeah, I think it's the Govt and automakers deciding that people need a babysitting sensor to keep them from rolling over.

    Problem is, apparently it takes out part of the electrical system when it goes like a master fuse killing the lights, AC and fridge in the house over a wall outlet in one room.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

  12. #12
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    I gave myself a headache reading about that foolish system. Some engineer needs to be neutered...
    Rusty in NC
    Don't tread on me!
    sic semper evello mortem tyrannis
    Wickr tiger133

  13. #13
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    IDK
    If it's a "crank, no start" I'd check the CPS sensor. Very common failure on the Jeeps
    “The quieter you become, the more you can hear.”
    ― Ram Dass

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by onetimer View Post
    IDK
    If it's a "crank, no start" I'd check the CPS sensor. Very common failure on the Jeeps
    No crank, no start. Dash lights up like a Christmas tree.

    Same issue from Apr/May last year when they supposedly replaced the starter [[I am starting to wonder]] and checked the ignition. Three days ago they ran system scan an everything was good and they also could find no issues with the ignition. Said perhaps one of the pins got stuck and it worked free.

    Now it is this module.

    I sent an email to the management of the dealership and will be contacting Chrysler/Jeeps help line.

    It is one thing to have an undefined issue but with this, somehow, the same symptoms from Apr/May, $500 to replace the starter and get the ignition looked at, the same symptoms late Nov, starts up then they find no issues and the next day same issue?

    Sounds fishy to me.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

  15. #15
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    What year is it, and have you checked recall list?
    Facts?? We don't need no stinkin facts...

  16. #16
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    I can turn that system off,see if turning it off helps you.
    "When law and morality contradict each other, the citizen has the cruel alternative of either losing his moral sense or losing his respect for the law." ~ Frederic Bastiilt

    "Duty is ours; results are God's."

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSTemplar View Post
    I can turn that system off,see if turning it off helps you.
    If turning it off will alow us to start and drive it for getting groceries and such, not like was are going to be going 4x4 any time soon. Talking to the servie dept there they said it was not starting because the module was not allowing info to go thru. We need a vehicle to drive and her wheelchair is in it as well.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

  18. #18
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    In most cars you can turn the stability control system on or off with the push of a button.

    This button
    "I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself." -DH Lawrence

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Satanta View Post
    No crank, no start. Dash lights up like a Christmas tree.

    Same issue from Apr/May last year when they supposedly replaced the starter [[I am starting to wonder]] and checked the ignition. Three days ago they ran system scan an everything was good and they also could find no issues with the ignition. Said perhaps one of the pins got stuck and it worked free.

    Now it is this module.

    I sent an email to the management of the dealership and will be contacting Chrysler/Jeeps help line.

    It is one thing to have an undefined issue but with this, somehow, the same symptoms from Apr/May, $500 to replace the starter and get the ignition looked at, the same symptoms late Nov, starts up then they find no issues and the next day same issue?

    Sounds fishy to me.

    Nuetral safetystarter switch

    Try starting in reverse or nuetral or low
    Anything but park or drive

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TerryK View Post
    In most cars you can turn the stability control system on or off with the push of a button.

    This button
    Tried that, no joy.

    Was not really sure what it was but it was lit up so I De-lit it.



    Quote Originally Posted by NC Susan View Post
    Nuetral safetystarter switch

    Try starting in reverse or nuetral or low
    Anything but park or drive
    Tried that as well. Nope.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

  21. #21
    This is exactly what I meant by my comment in the Fiat-Chrysler thread. I'm sorry Sat. I'd pay someone $5000 to rip the electronic brain out of the vehicle and make it manual all the way through. The idiot lights and seat belt lock-outs were bad enough; it's gotten so much worse.

  22. #22
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    Check YouTube for how to fix it.

    There is a reason I call them "stealerships".
    Now is the time for the American people to wake up and realize that we have been the only ones holding up the agreement between government and people.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sacajawea View Post
    This is exactly what I meant by my comment in the Fiat-Chrysler thread. I'm sorry Sat. I'd pay someone $5000 to rip the electronic brain out of the vehicle and make it manual all the way through. The idiot lights and seat belt lock-outs were bad enough; it's gotten so much worse.
    Yeah, I ever get another car it is gonna have manual everything from windows to tranny. I hate computerised everything in cars. More stuff to break.

    My old '78 Cherokee? Cost me $500 to replace the entire front end-wheels, hubs, axle....everything.

    The rest I could duct tape or beat it working with a hammer.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bears View Post
    Check YouTube for how to fix it.

    There is a reason I call them "stealerships".
    Been researching, not finding much on Youtube but the basis idea seens it is ubnder the center console, disco the batt and let it sit for a bit so it powers down otherwise you might set off the airbags when you remove it-stick a new one in.

    Some issues I'm facing is it might have to be programmed to the Jeep versus plug-N-play like a drive belt or alternater.

    Also want to be sure I get the right thing. Probably going to have my loccal garage go get it and we can go from there-maybe bypass it, disco it or replace it a hell of a lot cheaper than what the dealership wants.

    I did talk to them why this did not show up three days ago-apparently [[according to them]] they do a different type of scan. They scanned the electrical system and this would not show up.

    My concern is they are going to want a hundred bucks for doing this scan-not sure yet, too late to call ATM plus the tow fee tho my local garage waives the fee if they do the work in some cases.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

  25. #25
    Man, I'm not even going to address the sensor issue other than to repeat what I've said here for many, many years: Get an older car or truck with more backyard mechanic-friendly technology. 1960s to early '70s pickups are usually a good bet (to include Jeeps) and parts are neither rare nor expensive. If you buy at the right price point, maintain it correctly and don't wrap it around a tree, your vehicle should actually appreciate over time and save you time, money and headaches when repairs are needed.

    Best regards
    Doc

  26. #26
    If you don't get satisfaction from the dealer, go over their heads and contact THEIR boss-the zone manager. Also, just for giggles; have the dealer check for recalls on the part in question. I seem to remember there were recalls on the traction control systems on Jeeps in the 2007-2008 timeframe.

    Have you considered going to a u=pull auto parts yard and grabbing a sensor out of a wrecked vehicle? It would be great to spend 10 bucks on that sensor used and put it in yourself, rather than a ridiculously expensive new one from a dealer parts store....I'd also cross reference the part number on the sensor-there may be other cars or trucks that use the same sensor.

    Seeing you have a Hemi powered version, it is possible the sensor you need is a specific part-but frankly I doubt it. Chrysler doesn't engineer stuff that way; they try to make one part fit as many different vehicles as possible. I'm betting one part fits all.

    Good luck getting this done-the hemi powered Jeeps are some STRONG !! running vehicles. I'm an inspector of vehicles, and I do all FCA (Fiat/Chrysler) brands. Got to inspect a Challenger Hellcat (707 hp!) this week. Unreal acceleration!

    Quote Originally Posted by Satanta View Post
    Been researching, not finding much on Youtube but the basis idea seens it is ubnder the center console, disco the batt and let it sit for a bit so it powers down otherwise you might set off the airbags when you remove it-stick a new one in.

    Some issues I'm facing is it might have to be programmed to the Jeep versus plug-N-play like a drive belt or alternater.

    Also want to be sure I get the right thing. Probably going to have my loccal garage go get it and we can go from there-maybe bypass it, disco it or replace it a hell of a lot cheaper than what the dealership wants.

    I did talk to them why this did not show up three days ago-apparently [[according to them]] they do a different type of scan. They scanned the electrical system and this would not show up.

    My concern is they are going to want a hundred bucks for doing this scan-not sure yet, too late to call ATM plus the tow fee tho my local garage waives the fee if they do the work in some cases.

  27. #27
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    Doc1-yeah, in a perfect world I'd still be running my '78 Cherokee or '80 CJ. I do have to take into consideration what FL can drive too-not sure she can do a standard with her back issues tho mybe a hand-control might work.

    AlphaMan, have no got that far yet-I will start comparing I.D. numbers and such, not sure if there is a pick-N-pull nearby. My CJ could use the starter out of a Mercedes back in the day. lol.

    Biggest issue for doing self is vision and here no place to park it not on a slope. Skidplate makes access to anything lower a real problem without some way to lift it and I'm not sure I can hand wrench it off myself. Something under the console or changing plugs? Not an issue.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

  28. #28
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    Hey Sat. Research ignition actuator pin. Theres videos on youtube. Basically its a part between the lock cylinder and ignition switch. They break on TJs and XJs all the time. Dash lights will light up but no cranking. Common problem. Hope this helps.

  29. #29
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    Maybe not though... i just realized your jeep is a newer one.
    ETA... apparently these were still used on 07 WJs. Its worth checking.
    Last edited by ready2go; 01-12-2018 at 11:10 PM.

  30. #30
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    ....
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  31. #31
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    Pick a few forums out of the list from this search, those forums are a wealth of information for what ails your vehicle. I fixed the dash 'check engine' light issue from doing a search on the 4Runner forum I went to.

    https://classic.startpage.com//do/se...+Forum&cat=web
    Now the Lord is that Spirit: and where the Spirit of the Lord is, there is Liberty. II Cor. 3:17

  32. #32
    How was that sensor itself diagnosed as being faulty? By pulling a code using a scanner/code retriever type device?

    IF that is the case, just because a sensor code is set, that does not always mean the sensor itself is at fault. A sensor is simply an input within the closed loop system it's used in. That sensor also uses wiring and connectors. A sensor is used by the control module to make calculations for output commands to output actuators.

    All electrical problems have to be properly diagnosed before parts are suggested for replacement. Some circuit faults can be intermittent. For example, if a code us pulled from memory, that does not always mean the fault still exists at that time of code retrieval. Fault codes are triggered when a circuit fault exists for a predetermined amount of time. A circuit fault can self correct as in the case of an intermittent open circuit connection or wiring short to ground for example.

    The fault may no longer exist but the stored code remains in memory until it's extracted, recorded by the tech and erased. After the code is erased, if it's a "hard fault", the code will reappear immediately, indicating the circuit fault is not an intermittent one. These are the easiest to diagnose since the problem is happening "live". If a good visual inspection turns up nothing than electrical troubleshooting should be next. Diagnostic flowcharts are used until the problem source it positively identified and a good repair solution can be presented to the customer with a proper estimate of time and material.

    In the case of a suspected intermittent fault, the code is erased from memory and the vehicle is test driven. If after some time, the code does not reappear, the vehicle can be turned over to the customer to drive it as usual to see if the code resets at some point. At some point the vehicle can be brought back in to the shop and rechecked on the scanner. If the code is not stored in memory once again, the problem is intermittent or maybe just a one-time thing or it self corrected. No further action may be required.

    If the code reappears over time, after driving it over the course of a week or month, it can again be checked to see if it is a hard failure at the time of code retrieval or still randomly intermittent.

    If it comes and goes, the customer will have the option to OK the work to try to replicate the fault as part of diagnosis and or physically check that entire particular circuit. Some guys might find the problem, some might not especially if having to take half the vehicle apart to just gain access to components and harness and connectors. That in itself can be very costly. Maybe "not even worth it".
    But if problem involves a no start, or severe drivability issues or parasitic draw, it can test how far the customer wants to take it due to budget, etc.

    Worse thing is to blindly throw parts it and see what works. That can be very expensive with mixed and uncertain results. Sometimes it solves the problem, many times it will not.

    By the way, is this supposed to be related to the no start condition you had?

  33. #33
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    I would try a fused hot wire with a switch, from the battery to the trigger side of the starter.

    See if it will start, with the key in the "run" position.

    If it does, mount the switch in an obscure position on the dash somewhere.


    Kinda red-neck, but it beats being a pedestrian.
    Proud Infidel...............and Cracker

    Member: Nowski Brigade

    Deplorable


  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by ready2go View Post
    Hey Sat. Research ignition actuator pin. Theres videos on youtube. Basically its a part between the lock cylinder and ignition switch. They break on TJs and XJs all the time. Dash lights will light up but no cranking. Common problem. Hope this helps.
    I had that happen to my 2006 Jeep Liberty. The dealer told me I could not replace the pin by itself, and would have to order a new steering column. Well over $1500 for parts and labor. He even showed me the section in the parts section on line. He also checked and found out the steering column was on a six month backorder. I got on line and found that the pin was available from O'Reillys for $12. The service tech was so stunned that he installed the part for no cost.

  35. #35
    I'm still wondering how a Dynamic control system is supposed to be related to an engine no-crank or no-start complaint.

    Someone's a bit mixed up. I hope it's not the techs!!

    Panner, They got caught. Steering columns CAN be serviced. Dealer lied. Many do it all the time. With flat Rate, for a good tech, it's faster for him to R&R the entire assembly so the tech can move on the next job quicker to make his minimum weekly hours and pad that even more with cake jobs for a good paycheck. Dealer wins when book-time is beat, the tech wins too. Back ordered parts usually mean they are not often replaced with no need to kept at strength levels.

  36. #36
    If all else fails; replace the flux capacitor

    https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-capacitor

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Switchback View Post
    I'm still wondering how a Dynamic control system is supposed to be related to an engine no-crank or no-start complaint.

    Someone's a bit mixed up. I hope it's not the techs!!
    I've been unable to find anything similar to this from other Jeeper or online resources. Posted about it on Edmunds and going to hit a couple of Jeep forums in a bit.

    I tried to go thru Chryslers jeep cust service email last night but it sat there "loading" when I hit submit so not positive it went thru

    Going to find out if I got charged for yesterdays scan-three days ago there was no charge but for a 'Deeper" scan it was going to cost $90. but with the issue not being resolved I forgot to ask while dealing with them and the tow and getting back home.

    ATM the plan is to get the Jeep either back here or to the garage around the corner and start figuring things out since I'm not sure what to believe with the dealership. at this point. I am going to have the garage check and see if the starter is new or original since it was supposed to be replaced last year but the problem I'm having is exactly the same as May and Nov.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

  38. #38
    Screw the dealer.

    When you rotate the ignition key to the START position, does the starter motor rotate the engine as it normally would do?

    If NO, you have an "engine will not crank condition" and the entire starter motor control circuit will have to be diagnosed. It is not complicated to do so.

    If YES, does the engine actually rotate but will not "start up and run"?.... than we have an "engine cranks but will not start" condition.

    This is a more complicated diagnosis procedure unless an obvious fault is detected during a good visual inspection. Fuel supply, engine management input and output circuits have to be gone over and possible causes eliminated systematically. Things like is it getting fuel delivered, injector commands, spark on all cylinders...if not why and so forth. It's not rocket science.

    Your local guys at the shop should be more than able to diagnose these conditions.

    That traction control system (dynamic control sensor) code has nothing to do with an engine not staring and running. That is a completely different issue altogether and may even be just a history code with no problem associated at this time. It will not affect engine starting.

    If I had a system schematic I could suggest a lot more. especially if I know if it's a "no crank" or "crank, no start".

  39. #39
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    No crank unless the starters have been so far advanced that they make zero noise nowadays.

    I have posted this issue on a Jeep forum as well as Edmunds to see what the folks that tear these things up think.

    Something else-Jeep has auto-adjusting seats, you tunr the key and they reset back to last drivers settings unless you hit a button which puts it to that buttons settings.

    I've noted I get in, turn the key and the seats are not adjusting and a couple of times, when I pull the key out of the ignition the seat has started adjusting and the Ding, ding, ding you get if the key is left in when you open the door-it will start.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

  40. #40
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    And yeah, I hate dealers. Only reason I used them it was possibly a recall/warranty issue.
    "It ain't no secret I didn't get these scars falling over in church."


    I have not failed. I have simple discovered ten-thousand ways things don't work.

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