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June 2012 Planting Guide
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  1. #1
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    June 2012 Planting Guide

    http://www.farmersalmanac.com/calendar/gardening/




    June 2012

    1st-3rd Extra Good For Planting Fall Lettuce, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, And Other Leafy Vegetables. All Above ground Crops Planted Now Will Do Well. Plant Seedbeds.

    4th-5th
    Poor Planting Days. Cut Hay Or Do General Farm Work.

    6th-8th
    Plant Late Beets, Potatoes, Onions, Carrots And Other Root Crops.

    9th-10th
    Poor Days For Planting. Kill Plant Pests, Spray, Fertilize, Do General Farm Work.

    11th-13th
    Favorable Time For Planting Late Root Crops. Also Good For Vine Crops. Set Strawberry Plants. Good Days For Transplanting.

    14th-15th
    Cut Hay Or Do Plowing On These Barren Days.

    16th-17th
    Good Days For Planting Root Crops. Good Days For Transplanting.


    18th-19th
    Seeds Planted Now Tend To Rot In The Ground.

    20th-21st
    Plant Tomatoes, Beans, Peppers, Corn, Cotton, And Other Above ground Crops On These Most Fruitful Days. Plant Seedbeds And Flower Gardens


    22nd-25th Poor Period For Planting. Kill Plant Pests, Clear Fence Rows, Clear Land.

    26th-28th
    Favorable For Planting Peas, Beans, Tomatoes, And Other Fall Crops Bearing Yield Aboveground. Sow Grains And Forage Crops Now. Plant Flowers.

    29th-30th
    Extra Good For Planting Fall Lettuce, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, And Leafy Vegetables. All Aboveground Crops Planted Now Will Do Well. Plant Seedbeds.


    July 2012
    1st-3rd Seeds Planted Now Will Do Poorly And Yield Little.
    4th-5th Good Days For Planting Beets, Carrots, Salsify, Irish Potatoes, And Other Root Crops.
    6th-8th Good Days For Killing Weeds, Briars And Other Plant Pests, Poor For Planting.
    9th-10th Good Days For Planting Beets, Carrots, Radishes, Salsify, Turnips, Peanuts, And Other Root Crops. Also Good For Planting Melons, Cucumbers, Pumpkins, And Other Vine Crops. Set Strawberry Plants. Good Days For Transplanting.
    11th-12th A Barren Period.
    13th-14th Root Crops That Can Be Planted Now Will Yield Well. Good Days For Transplanting.
    15th-16th Poor Days For Planting, Seeds Tend To Rot In The Ground.
    17th-18th Most Fruitful Days For Planting Root Crops. Excellent For Sowing Seedbeds And Flower Gardens. Good Days For Transplanting.
    19th-23rd A Most Barren Period. Kill Plant Pests And Do General Farm Work.
    24th-25th Favorable For Planting Peas, Beans, Tomatoes, And Other Aboveground Fall Crops. Sow Grains And Forage Crops. Plant Flowers.
    26th-27th Extra Good For Fall Cabbage, Lettuce, Cauliflower, Mustard Greens, And Other Leafy Vegetables. Good For Any Aboveground Crop That Can Be Planted. Start Seedbeds.

  2. #2
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    http://www.farmersalmanac.com/home-g...nion-planting/

    What is Companion Planting?

    by Andrew Odom | Monday, May 10th, 2010 | From: Home and Garden

    Companion planting is little more than a general notion that certain plants can benefit others when planted in near proximity.
    It is literally defined as the establishment of two or more plant species in close proximity so that some cultural benefit (pest control, higher yield, etc.) is derived. Scientifically speaking, companion planting embraces a number of strategies that increase the biodiversity of agricultural ecosystems (or what I typically call a garden).

    In layman’s terms, though, it is just about two plants helping each other out somehow.

    While companion planting has a long history, the mechanisms of beneficial plant interaction have not always been well understood. In most cases they are formed out of oral tradition, family secrets, and front porch recommendations. Despite historical observation and horticultural science, companion planting is practiced because they are functional methods of planting that allow veggies and herbs to grow at their maximum potential. They keep bugs away. They keep the soil healthy. And they make the food taste better. To jump start your companion planting this year, try these ten popular companion planting suggestions.

    • Beans work with everything. Plant them next to tomatoes or spinach. They are hardy veggies and can live individually or in community.

    • Put a little horseradish near your potatoes to increase the disease resistance.

    • Summer cornfields can quickly be converted to pumpkin fields.

    • Pumpkins have traditionally been grown together with corn and pole beans by the Native Americans. This method is called the “three sisters” and is beneficial for all of them: the corn provides a good pole for the beans to grow up, the beans trap nitrogen in the soil which benefits the pumpkins, and the pumpkins provide a dense foliage and ground cover to suppress weeds and keep pests at bay.

    • Pumpkins work well as a row crop planted in close proximity to sunflowers, also a row crop.

    • Plant healthy nasturtium near your squash to help ward off squash vine borers.

    • Use sweet marjoram in your beds and gardens to sweeten the taste of vegetables and herbs.

    EXTRA CREDIT: Liberally place bay leaf in any container you keep seed in to ward off weevils and moths.


    -> from the comments sections ->

    the previous owner of our house planted garlic with the roses and that may explain why the roses that I thought were tea roses are HUGE and smell wonderful!!

    The primary reason not to plant tomatoes and potatoes near each other is more due to Late Blight (Phytophthora infestans) as the same insect (Colorado Potato Beetle) that transmits the fungus disease will also attack tomatoes.
    Tomatoes have enough problems with soil borne fungus diseases such as Fusarium and Pythium (root rot) but the Late Blight fungus can harbor in the soil longer. If the tom’s get even a whiff of Late Blight the fruit will begin rotting
    within a day and the plant will be a goner within 2 days as Late Blight acts like a systemic on both plants but more so and faster on the tom’s.

    plant onions with carrots and beets. The onions repel carrot rust fly & since the onions grow up and the root crops grow down, they make great companions!

    planting basil within 18 inches of your tomato plant improves the flavor of its fruit and repels a ton of insect pests

    dill is a great bad insect repellent around summer squashes… its a perennial also. this is good also if you grow cucumbers (to make pickles)
    Last edited by NC Susan; 05-30-2012 at 10:11 PM.

  3. #3
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    http://www.motherearthnews.com/organ...m0z11zhun.aspx

    Companion Planting With Vegetables and Flowers

    The right plant combos will save space and provide weed and pest control.

    By Barbara Pleasant
    April/May 2011


    Gardeners sometimes say plants in good intercropping associations “just seem happy” — a worthy goal for any organic gardener.






    Each spring, I grow legions of onions and shallots from seed, and my biggest challenge is keeping them weeded. Last year, I planted pinches of arugula between the short rows of shallots, and the leafy, fast-growing arugula smothered any weeds and showed remarkably little damage from flea beetles, which often plague it. The arugula was ready to harvest just when the shallots needed room to grow. In a eureka moment, I realized I had discovered a vegetable companion-planting partnership I could use year after year to make my garden healthier and more productive.

    The idea of “companion planting” has been around for thousands of years, during which time it has become so besmirched with bad science and metaphysics that many gardeners aren’t sure what it means. The current definition goes something like this: Companion planting is the establishment of two or more species in close proximity so that some cultural benefit, such as pest control or increased yield, may be achieved.
    Historically, North American and European gardeners have based many of their attempts with companion planting on widely published charts, which were mostly derived from funky chemistry experiments using plant extracts in the 1930s. But it turns out many of the plant partnerships listed in these “traditional” companion-planting charts don’t actually work well. Reaping the benefits of companion planting is possible, though, as long as you look to time-tested crop combinations. (See our chart of Proven Companion Planting Combos for spring, summer and fall.)
    Companion Crop Combinations

    In North America, Native American tribes from the Northeast to the Southwest developed highly specialized intercropping techniques to grow the “three sisters” — corn, pole beans and squash. (There is a fourth sister, sunflower, but she didn’t make it into the early stories.) Three sisters gardens vary in shape, size and planting style (raised mounds in the East and North, recessed waffle beds in the Southwest). The three (or four) sisters technique works because the crops cooperate rather than compete with each other for light and root space. The corn supports the bean vines, the squash shades out weeds, and the roots of the different plants get along nicely below ground.

    But what about all of the other vegetables you want to grow? An experienced gardener from China wouldn’t be surprised by my success with onions and arugula, because intercropping of vegetables is the traditional way to garden in China’s most fertile regions. Plant associations that work well are shared among neighbors, as everyone has learned that intercropping is more efficient, reduces weed and pest pressure, and lowers the risk of crop failure. Chinese intercropping practices use a broad range of crops, which makes them easy to replicate in a diversified organic garden.

    Agricultural researchers have noted that the paired plants in Chinese intercropping practices usually differ in height, maturation period and rooting habit. In addition, many gardeners in China grow the following intercropped vegetables back-to-back during the course of the growing season:
    • Onions with leafy vegetables, followed by green beans and Chinese cabbage or spinach
    • Potatoes with leafy vegetables, followed by green beans and Chinese cabbage or spinach
    • Spring kale with radishes, followed by celery and tomatoes
    • Spring spinach, followed by lima beans and tomatoes
    • Double rows of corn alternated with single rows of peppers
    • A double row of garlic with spinach down the center
    • Strawberries with watermelon
    Using Plants to Manage Pests and Weeds

    Some gardeners use companion planting to deter all manner of garden pests, such as planting hedges of marigolds to deter rabbits or using rattail radishes to confuse squash vine borers. In our online Pest Control Survey, the gardeners who reported the most success with companion planting to discourage pests used a single technique: “growing tons of flowers,” with borage, calendula, dill, sweet alyssum, and herbs such as basil, garlic chives and oregano named most frequently.
    Several scientific studies have confirmed these and other flowering plants help reduce pest problems, particularly if your garden is troubled by early-season aphids or other small sucking insects, which are primary food sources for hoverfly larvae. Hoverflies are active, early-season aphid predators (before aphid-eating ladybeetles take over later in the season). Scientists have found that hovering in midair requires so much energy that hoverflies tend to stick close to nectar sources, so if you lure them in with the right plants, they’re likely to stay all summer. Cilantro (coriander) and fennel flowers are strong hoverfly attractants, as are Greek oregano, sweet alyssum, and many other herbs and flowers.

    You can also use companion planting to draw the attention of birds, which eat a wide variety of garden insects. In a recent study conducted at four organic farms in Florida, sunflowers interplanted with collard greens, kale, summer squash, tomatoes and five other vegetable crops doubled the number of insect-eating birds that visited the garden plots. The birds used the sunflowers as hunting perches, then hopped down to feed on cabbageworms, grasshoppers and other small insects, including flea beetles. Could there be an easier, more beautiful way to reduce pest problems before they start?

    Finally, one of the finest benefits of finding plant associations that work well for your garden is using them to keep weeds under control. Slower-growing, upright plants (such as onions and parsnips) can be nursed along with companion crops of baby greens, which are much more rewarding to pull than weeds. In some situations, however, even weeds may become desirable companion plants. Several MOTHER EARTH NEWS readers have reported using redroot pigweed as a trap crop for cucumber beetles and Mexican bean beetles. In some locations, wild mustards can work as trap crops for flea beetles in spring.
    Companion planting for pest control purposes deserves close scrutiny and the willingness to trust your own experience over what you read in books. Planting basil with tomatoes sounds good, but the pairing does little to deter tomato hornworms (its intended purpose), and the basil eventually suffers from light deprivation. The combination also fails below ground, where the two plants grow on the same schedule and therefore take up nutrients at the same time. Radishes and cilantro may be wiser choices as pals for your tomatoes, because each make a quick crop before the tomatoes need more space, and a few radish or cilantro plants can be left behind to attract beneficial insects as they flower.
    Measuring Success

    Agricultural researchers use a simple formula called the land equivalent ratio (LER) to measure the overall success of intercropped plantings. The LER balances space and production costs with yields. For example, cauliflower is a slow-growing crop that needs a lot of space, so it has an LER of 1. But if you grow lettuce between cauliflower plants (as researchers did in a recent study in Pakistan), the LER per square foot will rise significantly. Space planted with a dominant crop (broccoli, cauliflower, tomatoes) and a companion crop (lettuce, radicchio or sorrel) will almost always have a higher LER than space with a crop grown by itself.

    Some gardeners grow companion plants in adjacent rows, and sweet corn is a champ in this role because of its ability to provide filtered shade to neighboring plants. In China, crowder peas, green beans and peppers are all popular crops to sandwich between rows of corn. In many hot climates, corn grown along the south side of potatoes provides shade in hot weather, which helps keep the soil cool and moist while the potatoes are making their crop.

    Working with companion plants requires experimenting in your own garden, using the crops your family likes best, and allowing for an increase in leafy greens because they are such versatile companion plants. (A couple of chickens or rabbits will gladly feast on whatever your family can’t use.) Gardeners sometimes say the plants in good intercropping associations “just seem happy” — a worthy goal for any organic gardener.

    Share What You Know

    Have you found companion-planting techniques that are effective year after year? Please share your stories of companion success (and failure) in our Vegetable Companion Planting Survey. We’ll use your input to develop a companion-planting database everyone can use to grow healthier, more productive gardens.







  4. #4
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    its a pdf file, so you have to open the link and then use the magnifying glass to view it, but here is a dynamic Companion Chart for planting

    http://farmtopreschool.org/pdf/2.3_C...ting_Chart.pdf

  5. #5
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    http://www.seedsofchange.com/enewsle..._planting.aspx

    Companion Planting: So Happy Together!
    by Kelle Carter
    Each season on our Research Farm we grow every herb, flower, and vegetable offered in our catalog; in addition, we perform field trials of potential new introductions or quality checks. This adds up to a total of nearly 1,200 different varieties, a smorgasbord of biodiversity! Of course many of you do not have the space or the time to grow at this level of multiplicity (even though that pile of catalogs with dog-eared pages seems to suggest otherwise). No matter how much space you have, be it a deck with containers or a small garden plot, there is nothing more important in organic gardening than diversity.

    Many people think of organic gardening as growing without the use of pesticides or herbicides. This is obviously a fundamental part of organics, however, what many do not understand is that it is more than simply a switch from conventional chemicals to OMRI approved materials. Organic gardening is composed of numerous aspects that make up a whole interconnected system. This system relies upon insects, birds, shade, sun, and all other aspects of a living and working community. By growing numerous types of crops you create habitats for beneficial insects or animals, deter problem pests, and enrich your soil to create a living ecosystem of beneficial bacteria and helpful fungi.

    Companion planting is not a new idea to the gardening world. There is evidence of farmers using these same techniques dating back to ancient Roman times. Many people are familiar with the idea of planting the "Three Sisters," a Native American technique that combines corn, squash, and beans. These are time-tested planting methods that some dismiss as old wives tales. They would rather plant in organized, monoculture plots that tend to have the same appearance as different color cars parked in a mall parking lot.

    By planting only one crop or separating crop by type, you are actually creating a situation that requires a dependence on pesticides or herbicides, organic or not. If you examine a wooded forest lot or a marsh that has not been infringed upon by humans, you will see an interrelated system that works in natural harmony within itself. There are bugs that feed the birds, small mammals that maintain a manageable level of ground growth, and larger mammals that manage the level of smaller ones; the system requires no external inputs. This is the type of environment that can be created in one's garden space, making it harmonious for the birds and the bees, while providing a peaceful retreat for family and friends to enjoy.

    A companion planting plan integrates Mother Nature's traits as well as your choice of crops. Some underlying techniques in companion planting include:
    • Mix up monocrops. If you want to grow a lot of one crop (tomatoes seem to be the choice in many gardens), plant several small plots in various areas of your garden and mix the crop with one other vegetable or flower.
    • Interplant herbs and flowers. By planting flowers and herbs among your vegetables, you can attract beneficial insects and birds, which are natural predators to those pests that eat your brassica leaves. Flowers and herbs can also confuse pests and deter them from finding your prize crop.
    • Provide refuge for beneficials. Create habitats in your garden for creatures that prey on those pesky ones. Such beneficials include toads, lizards, snakes, birds and various insects. These organisms need food, water, shelter and breeding grounds in order to find a happy home in your garden. Groundcovers, hedgerows, rock piles, and perennial plants provide needed shelter. Birdbaths and bird feeders also encourage necessary critters.
    • Use organic pesticides as the last resort. Many of the OMRI approved chemicals may be safer; however, they still have some toxic residues that can harm the natural balance in your garden. They work very well at killing the pests, but they can also harm helpful insects like butterflies and bees.
    • Know your weeds. Identify the weeds and wildflowers that pop up in your garden space and learn which ones attract native beneficial organisms. It is okay to leave a few of them growing in your garden (as long as you do not let them go to seed).
    Although there is limited scientific "research" regarding companion planting, there is evidence from gardening experiments and scientific studies that shows potential benefits from this technique. These benefits include:
    • Hiding or masking a crop from pests,
    • Producing odors that deter or confuse pests,
    • Providing trap crops which draw pest insects away from other plants,
    • Acting as nurse plants that provide breeding grounds for beneficial insects,
    • Providing food to sustain beneficial insects as they search out their prey,
    • Creating a habitat for favorable creatures.
    There are hundreds of ideas and companion planting schemes to be tried and tested in your garden. Refer to the chart provided by The Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening for an abundance of ideas to try. Below are some companion crops that can help you strive for organic greatness:

    Marigolds: These reseeding annual flowers have a distinctive smell that is even apparent to our noses. This stench can deter pests because they typically find it unappealing. Plant them very thickly throughout vegetable plots. Our French Brocade Marigold has the added benefit of nematode suppression because its roots emit a substance that repels nematodes in the immediate area.

    Mints: The odoriferous members of this family, especially catnip, help to repel aphids and cabbage pests. Be advised that certain mints can grow out of control and take over a garden space. To make sure you do not start a new problem by fixing an old one, you can grow mints in containers and place around your garden. Another trick is to remove both ends of a coffee can and plant the mint into the can to restrain the roots and force them to grow down rather than out.

    Rue: This plant deters Japanese beetles. Grow as a garden border or scatter rue leaf clippings in an infested area. Be careful: Rue causes a poison ivy-like rash for some people, so wear gloves.

    Sweet Basil: This herb is a must for any garden. Grow among vegetables to repel aphids, mites, and mosquitoes. Basil acts as a fungicide and can slow the growth of milkweed bugs.

    Plant Companion(s) and Effects
    Asparagus Tomatoes, parsley, basil
    Basil Tomatoes (improves growth & flavor); said to dislike rue; repels flies & mosquitoes
    Bean Potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, cauliflower, cabbage, summer savory, most other veggies & herbs
    Bean (bush) Sunflowers (beans like partial shade, unless you live up north, sunflowers attract birds & bees for pollination), cucumbers (combination of heavy and light feeders), potatoes, corn, celery, summer savory
    Bee Balm Tomatoes (improves growth & flavor).
    Beet Onions, kohlrabi
    Borage Tomatoes (attracts bees, deters tomato worm, improves growth & flavor), squash, strawberries
    Cabbage Family (broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi) Potatoes, celery, dill, chamomile, sage, thyme, mint, pennyroyal, rosemary, lavender, beets, onions; aromatic plants deter cabbage worms
    Caraway Loosens soil; plant here and there
    Carrot Peas, lettuce, chives, onions, leeks, rosemary, sage, tomatoes
    Catnip Plant in borders; protects against flea beetles
    Celery Leeks, tomatoes, bush beans, cauliflower, cabbage
    Chamomile Cabbage, onions
    Chervil Radishes (improves growth & flavor).
    Chive Carrots; plant around base of fruit trees to discourage insects from climbing trunk
    Corn Potatoes, peas, beans, cucumbers, pumpkin, squash
    Cucumber Beans, corn, peas, radishes, sunflowers
    Dead Nettle Potatoes (deters potato bugs)
    Dill Cabbage (improves growth & health), carrots
    Eggplant Beans
    Fennel Most plants are supposed to dislike it.
    Flax Carrots, potatoes
    Garlic Roses & raspberries (deters Japanese beetle); with herbs to enhance their production of essential oils; plant liberally throughout garden to deter pests
    Horseradish Potatoes (deters potato beetle); around plum trees to discourage curculios
    Hyssop Cabbage (deters cabbage moths), grapes; keep away from radishes
    Lamb's Quarters Nutritious edible weeds; allow to grow in modest amounts in the corn
    Leek Onions, celery, carrots
    Lemon Balm Here and there in the garden
    Marigold The workhorse of pest deterrents; keeps soil free of nematodes; discourages many insects; plant freely throughout the garden.
    Marjoram Here and there in the garden
    Mint Cabbage family; tomatoes; deters cabbage moth
    Nasturtium Tomatoes, radish, cabbage, cucumbers; plant under fruit trees; deters aphids & pests of curcurbits
    Onion Beets, strawberries, tomato, lettuce (protects against slugs), beans (protects against ants), summer savory
    Parsley Tomato, asparagus
    Pea Squash (when squash follows peas up trellis), plus grows well with almost any vegetable; adds nitrogen to the soil
    Petunia Protects beans; beneficial throughout garden
    Potato Horseradish, beans, corn, cabbage, marigold, limas, eggplant (as a trap crop for potato beetle)
    Pot Marigold Helps tomato, but plant throughout garden as deterrent to asparagus beetle, tomato worm & many other garden pests
    Pumpkin Corn
    Radish Peas, nasturtium, lettuce, cucumbers; a general aid in repelling insects
    Rosemary Carrots, beans, cabbage, sage; deters cabbage moth, bean beetles & carrot fly
    Rue Roses & raspberries; deters Japanese beetle; keep away from basil
    Sage Rosemary, carrots, cabbage, peas, beans; deters some insects
    Soybean Grows with anything; helps everything
    Spinach Strawberries
    Squash Nasturtium, corn
    Strawberry Bush beans, spinach, borage, lettuce (as a border)
    Summer Savory Beans, onions; deters bean beetles
    Sunflower Cucumber
    Tansy Plant under fruit trees; deters pests of roses & raspberries; deters flying insects, also Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs; deters ants
    Tarragon Good throughout garden
    Thyme Here and there in garden; deters cabbage worm
    Tomato Chives, onion, parsley, asparagus, marigold, nasturtium, carrot, limas
    Valerian Good anywhere in garden
    Wormwood As a border, keeps animals from the garden
    Yarrow Plant along borders, near paths, near aromatic herbs; enhances essential oil production of herbs
    Resource: The Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, J.I. Rodale (editor)


    Companion planting, like many other aspects of gardening, is an art that can be polished and refined each season. Check out Great Garden Companions by Sally Jean Cunningham for an easy-to-use, practical gardening reference book with a plethora of information, from techniques for beginning your first garden to the complexities of insect and plant relationships. Also see Carrots Love Tomatoes by Louise Riotte, a classic guide to companion planting, in print for over twenty-five years. There are unlimited choices and an abundance of crop pairs that can assist you in finding that perfect balance of life in the living ecosystem that is your garden.

  6. #6
    Glad to see June 11-13 are good for planting. A freeze last night took out all of my tomatoes and cucumbers, 2/3 of the green beans. I don't know about the corn yet. Tops of the potato plants froze.
    "One day I will leave this world and dream myself to Reality" Crazy Horse
    1874

  7. #7
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  8. #8
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    Oh, Dutchess... that's terrible!! And here I was freaking out about having JUST planted my vine seeds (waited until the 11th, because I was already SO late I figured another 2 days wouldn't make much difference, and if there is ANYthing to this "planting by the moon" stuff, I need all the help I can get!

    We had THE weirdest spring ever... temps in the 80s and even 90's in late April and early May, and then hard freezes into the lower 20's when all the fruit was blooming.

    I lost a bunch of tomato plants IN THE GREENHOUSE in mid May... fortunately enough survived that we should have plenty (and I've got tons of canned tomato products yet from the last two years- we processed almost 20 bushels of fruit both years)

    But I'm going to need a LONG, late fall to get any pumpkins and winter squash. We keep adding raised beds every time I get a few bucks, and I'm going to figure out how to design some cold frame covers for them for later in the year.

    I really need a good crop of snap beans and carrots (I'm using up the last jars of both of those) and, to a lesser extent, beets.

    We planted a lot less potatoes than usual (a tip- the next time, if you get a frost warning, if possible, hill up your potatoes and cover the plants as much as possible- it gives them a lot better chance of surviving and thriving, although yours will probably come back). But at the last minute, I wouldn't let hubby take the leftover seed potatoes back and burn them... not yet. We can usually get a crop of potatoes here for storage if we plant by July 4th... and I just had a "nudge" that we MIGHT want to plant more, if "something" happens in the next 3 weeks. If not... I'll burn the extra seed. I just wasn't up to harvesting 1500# of potatoes and then giving a lot of them away and hauling a lot back out of the root cellar next spring, because we just don't need that many ourselves any more at all. But if things start looking like they're going south quickly, I'll plant more and figure we'll have help with the harvest.

    Summerthyme

  9. #9
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    have a dozen potatoes growing in the kitchen that i am probably taking out to plant. Those companion planting guides mentioned shading potatoes in the heat. One reason they dont get summer planted is that they always blacken and burn is our scorching hot sun summers.
    and
    Summerthyme -> why would you BURN seed potatoes instead of feed them to chickens or compost piles?

    and nobody is ever going to get the best of You Dutchess. You just have to figure out how to ride out those 65mph gales! Does the bad wind always travel in the same direction? Maybe a one sided ditch berm to embank your garden walls.......

  10. #10
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    hiding your survival garden


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by NC Susan View Post
    its a pdf file, so you have to open the link and then use the magnifying glass to view it, but here is a dynamic Companion Chart for planting

    http://farmtopreschool.org/pdf/2.3_C...ting_Chart.pdf
    Nice chart NCSusan, thanks! I collect Companion Planting charts. I don't know why I do but I do. I just love them and want to frame them all and hang them in my greenhouse that I will get someday. I'll definately add this one.

    Vicki
    "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food." Hippocrates

    ~~~ http://www.ruralsurvival.info/victor...l#.UU3-2zuDpGQ ~~~

    Real friendship, real love and real compassion doesn't have an agenda.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by duchess47 View Post
    Glad to see June 11-13 are good for planting. A freeze last night took out all of my tomatoes and cucumbers, 2/3 of the green beans. I don't know about the corn yet. Tops of the potato plants froze.
    I can't believe you just had a frost. In Nevada no less. Sending you some of our un-natural heat for this time of year. Btw, the rest of my family besides who's here in upstate live in Reno. They've been there at least 40 years now. They tell me they're moving here come late summer early fall. We'll see.
    "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food." Hippocrates

    ~~~ http://www.ruralsurvival.info/victor...l#.UU3-2zuDpGQ ~~~

    Real friendship, real love and real compassion doesn't have an agenda.

  13. #13
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by summerthyme View Post
    if there is ANYthing to this "planting by the moon" stuff,
    When I started planting by the moon a century or so ago is when I finally had good crops and people started telling me I had a wicked green thumb. Before that, not so much. I also use Bach's Recue Remedy on transplants with pretty much 100% efficiency. If plants are barely hanging on due to frost or whatever, it's definately worth a shot. Here's what it looks like...
    Attached Images
    "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food." Hippocrates

    ~~~ http://www.ruralsurvival.info/victor...l#.UU3-2zuDpGQ ~~~

    Real friendship, real love and real compassion doesn't have an agenda.

  15. #15
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    I bought two of these posters from United Plant Savers and framed one and put the other away. Loved this poster..
    Attached Images
    "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food." Hippocrates

    ~~~ http://www.ruralsurvival.info/victor...l#.UU3-2zuDpGQ ~~~

    Real friendship, real love and real compassion doesn't have an agenda.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by NC Susan View Post
    hiding your survival garden

    Lol, well that was interesting. Thanks for giving me one more thing to do NCSusan. I really am going to try this now that my other gardens are up and growing. Might as well experimentt now eh!
    "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food." Hippocrates

    ~~~ http://www.ruralsurvival.info/victor...l#.UU3-2zuDpGQ ~~~

    Real friendship, real love and real compassion doesn't have an agenda.

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by NC Susan View Post
    and nobody is ever going to get the best of You Dutchess. You just have to figure out how to ride out those 65mph gales! Does the bad wind always travel in the same direction? Maybe a one sided ditch berm to embank your garden walls.......
    Quote Originally Posted by Vicki View Post
    I can't believe you just had a frost. In Nevada no less. Sending you some of our un-natural heat for this time of year. Btw, the rest of my family besides who's here in upstate live in Reno. They've been there at least 40 years now. They tell me they're moving here come late summer early fall. We'll see.
    Susan, I do have a wind break up around the garden which helps a lot. I've got three tomatoes left , the corn is okay I think. Still plenty of time to get more stuff in the ground. I didn't even get started last year until June 15th.

    Vicki, tell them I live near Silver Springs. They can probably explain that. I can't believe they will actually leave NV. I can't imagine living without my mountains and desert.
    "One day I will leave this world and dream myself to Reality" Crazy Horse
    1874

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by duchess47 View Post
    I can't believe they will actually leave NV. I can't imagine living without my mountains and desert.
    That's why I said "we'll see" Dutchess. When you live somewhere that long, it's such a huge life altering venture. My Uncle has signs of alzheimers and my cousins think they need to be closer to the rest of us after all these years. I hate to say or think it but it's like they come home to die. Hopefully they will have many many years left and all works out for everyone. I pray it so. Still sending some positive thoughts your way for your garden.
    "Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine be your food." Hippocrates

    ~~~ http://www.ruralsurvival.info/victor...l#.UU3-2zuDpGQ ~~~

    Real friendship, real love and real compassion doesn't have an agenda.

  19. #19
    Thank you and prayers for your uncle and cousins. I hope it all works out all right.
    "One day I will leave this world and dream myself to Reality" Crazy Horse
    1874

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by duchess47 View Post
    Susan, I do have a wind break up around the garden ......
    no, i mean a WIND BREAK, very permanent, once in a lifetime constructed for generations to come, such as a row of old lilacs or Normandy the French hedges or in Afghanistan with the tall stucco walls to stop the wind........ or a very serious aquaponics green house.

    Something you can berm up with a backhoe bulldozer and then put the garden inside of.
    (found some squirrel corn growing in the front yard hedges.... lol)

  21. #21
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    How to Grow 100 pound of potatoes in 4 square feet!

    According to this article from the Seattle Times, potatoes planted inside a box with this method can grow up to 100 pounds of potatoes in just 4 square feet. All that is required:
    • Lumber
    • Seed potatoes
    • Soil
    • Careful attention to watering
    Plant as early as April or as late as August 1, with an approximated 3 month till harvest turnaround time.
    Here are some pointers from the article:
    • Cut apart larger seed potatoes, making sure there are at least two eyes in each piece you plant.
    • Dust the cut pieces with fir dust, which seals the open ends from bacteria.
    • Fertilize with 10-20-20 fertilizer at planting and a couple of times during the season.
    • Water so that the plants are kept at an even level of moisture.
    • Don’t plant in the same area in consecutive years or use the same soil to fill your potato box, as potatoes can attract various diseases.
    Source: http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/htm...otatoes25.html

    http://ybertaud9.wordpress.com/2012/...th-epsom-salt/
    Last edited by NC Susan; 06-19-2012 at 09:46 PM.

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